Marilyn never goes out of style

By Michael Quintanilla

Updated 8:40 am, Sunday, August 5, 2012

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Marilyn Monroe is sultry in William Travilla's gold lame knife-pleated gown with a halter neckline and style lines that are somewhat Egyptian. She wore it for a scene in "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes," but is only seen from the rear in the moive. The gown is well known to Monroe fans because she wore it for a series of color portraits that are among her most famous. (Reprinted with permission from t)

Marilyn Monroe is sultry in William Travilla's gold lame knife-pleated gown with a halter neckline and style lines that are somewhat Egyptian. She wore it for a scene in "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes," but is only

This book cover image released by Running Press, a member of the Perseus Books Group, shows "Marilyn in Fashion: The enduring Influence of Marilyn Monroe," by Christopher Nickens and George Zeno. (AP Photo/Running Press, a member of the Perseus Books Group) (Associated Press)

As Lorelei Lee, Marilyn Monroe poses on the set of "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes," in the midst of filming "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend" in William Travilla's floor-length strapless gown. (Reprinted with permission from t)

As Lorelei Lee, Marilyn Monroe poses on the set of "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes," in the midst of filming "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend" in William Travilla's floor-length strapless gown. (Reprinted with

Marilyn Monroe walks with friends on the evening that she sang Happy Birthday to President John F. Kennedy on his 45th birthday. She wears a form-fitting gown designed by Jean Louis, head designer for Columbia Pictures at the time. The see-through flesh-hued gown, sans undergarments, is embroidered with rhinestones. But she did accessorize with with earrings, a fur wrap and heels. (Reprinted with permission from t)

Marilyn Monroe walks with friends on the evening that she sang Happy Birthday to President John F. Kennedy on his 45th birthday. She wears a form-fitting gown designed by Jean Louis, head designer for Columbia

In this September 15, 1954 publicity photo courtesy Running Press, Marilyn Monroe is shown during the “subway” scene of "The Seven Year Itch," filmed late in the evening on Lexington Avenue in New York. Monroe passed away a half-century ago this week, a murky death that remains one of Hollywood's most tantalizing mysteries. But look around: Her legend lives on, more vibrantly than ever. In a twist she surely would have appreciated, this 1950's bombshell has become a 21st-century pop culture phenom. (AP Photo/Courtesy Running Press) (Associated Press)

In this September 15, 1954 publicity photo courtesy Running Press, Marilyn Monroe is shown during the “subway” scene of "The Seven Year Itch," filmed late in the evening on Lexington Avenue in New York.

This suit in pale torquoise dupioni silk is from "Niagra." The suit is by Dorothy Jeakins, a freelance costumer who won three Oscars for her work. Like other costumes, Marilyn wore this one several times off screeen. She often wore many of her screen costumes off screen as they tailor made for her measurements.

This suit in pale torquoise dupioni silk is from "Niagra." The suit is by Dorothy Jeakins, a freelance costumer who won three Oscars for her work. Like other costumes, Marilyn wore this one several times off

In this March 1953 publicity photo provided by Running Press, Marilyn Monroe receives an award from Photoplay magazine at the Beverly Hills Hotel, in Beverly Hills, Calif. She is named “Fastest Rising Star of 1952,” and her choice of attire overshadows the event. The entire gown was made from “one complete circle of fabric.” (AP Photo/Courtesy Running Press) (Associated Press)

In this March 1953 publicity photo provided by Running Press, Marilyn Monroe receives an award from Photoplay magazine at the Beverly Hills Hotel, in Beverly Hills, Calif. She is named “Fastest Rising Star of

In this undated publicity photo courtesy Running Press, Marilyn Monroe is shown in the first photo taken of her in the famous white dress from the "The Seven Year Itch." For a brief scene in "The Seven Year Itch," in September 1954, her character strolls on a Manhattan street on a stifling summer evening. When a subway rattles beneath her, Marilyn stands astride a sidewalk vent to catch a cool breeze that swirls her skirt up around her waist. (AP Photo/Courtesy Running Press) (Associated Press)

In this undated publicity photo courtesy Running Press, Marilyn Monroe is shown in the first photo taken of her in the famous white dress from the "The Seven Year Itch." For a brief scene in "The Seven Year

In this May 19, 1962 publicity photo provided by Running Press, Peter Lawford, right, tends to Marilyn Monroe's fur as she prepares to sing "Happy Birthday" to President John F. Kennedy at a Madison Square Garden gala in New York. (AP Photo/Courtesy Running Press) (Associated Press)

In this May 19, 1962 publicity photo provided by Running Press, Peter Lawford, right, tends to Marilyn Monroe's fur as she prepares to sing "Happy Birthday" to President John F. Kennedy at a Madison Square

In this late October 1956 publicity photo provided by Running Press, Marilyn Monroe, right, with husband Arthur Miller, is shown in the final weeks of filming "The Prince and the Showgirl." This goddess-like ensemble is in a burnished gold lamé. (AP Photo/Courtesy Running Press) (Associated Press)

In this late October 1956 publicity photo provided by Running Press, Marilyn Monroe, right, with husband Arthur Miller, is shown in the final weeks of filming "The Prince and the Showgirl." This goddess-like

In this late October 1956 photo provided by courtesy Running Press, Marilyn Monroe, right, wearing a burnished gold lamé gown meets Queen Elizabeth in London. The photograph is included in a new 2012 book, "Marilyn in Fashion," published by Running Press. Monroe passed away a half-century ago this week, a murky death that remains one of Hollywood's most tantalizing mysteries. But look around: Her legend lives on, more vibrantly than ever. In a twist she surely would have appreciated, this 1950's bombshell has become a 21st-century pop culture phenom. (AP Photo/Courtesy Running Press) (Associated Press) less

In this late October 1956 photo provided by courtesy Running Press, Marilyn Monroe, right, wearing a burnished gold lamé gown meets Queen Elizabeth in London. The photograph is included in a new 2012 book, ... more

Marilyn Monroe, in a black wool suit in 1956 by designer George Nardiello. She's intervied by a reporter in a lounge at the Los Angeles International Airport. She wore the suit with a black satin shirt and matching necktie, leather glvoes and pumps. (Reprinted with permission from t)

Marilyn Monroe, in a black wool suit in 1956 by designer George Nardiello. She's intervied by a reporter in a lounge at the Los Angeles International Airport. She wore the suit with a black satin shirt and

Before she was an actress, Marilyn Monroe was a model and learned how to do her own makeup that included an over-drawn upper lip and false eyelashes as show in this 1952 portrait. Later, makeup artists soon learned about Monroe's attention to such details (Reprinted with permission from t) less

Before she was an actress, Marilyn Monroe was a model and learned how to do her own makeup that included an over-drawn upper lip and false eyelashes as show in this 1952 portrait. Later, makeup artists soon ... more

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Marilyn Monroe strikes a provocative pose in this Oleg Cassini basket weave chocolate velvet gown he had designed for wife Gene Tierney and that a fan magazine declared "the most risque design of the year." Cassini, in 1961, was appointed by Jacqueline Kennedy as the official couturier for the first lady and created the "Jackie Look" for her of stripped down versions of Chanel and pillbox hats. (Reprinted with permission from t)

Marilyn Monroe strikes a provocative pose in this Oleg Cassini basket weave chocolate velvet gown he had designed for wife Gene Tierney and that a fan magazine declared "the most risque design of the year."

(FILES)American actress Marilyn Monroe poses in 1959 for the photographers at La Guardia Airport before to fly to Chicago, for the presentation of her film "Some like it hot". She was the prototype blonde bombshell and 50 years after her sudden death, the smoke from Marilyn Monroe's one-woman sexual revolution has yet to clear. Monroe wasn't the first Hollywood pin-up. Or even a natural blonde. But between the famous tight red sweater, the Playboy pictures, and that skirt blowing episode over a New York subway grate, the young woman previously known as Norma Jean Baker put America and the world in a fluster. AFP PHOTO/FILESSTR/AFP/GettyImages (STR / AFP/Getty Images)

(FILES)American actress Marilyn Monroe poses in 1959 for the photographers at La Guardia Airport before to fly to Chicago, for the presentation of her film "Some like it hot". She was the prototype blonde

**FILE** Clark Gable and Marilyn Monroe, play a scene in "The Misfits" in this undated file photo. It turned out to be the last movie for both in 1961. (AP Photo, file) (Anonymous / Associated Press)

**FILE** Clark Gable and Marilyn Monroe, play a scene in "The Misfits" in this undated file photo. It turned out to be the last movie for both in 1961. (AP Photo, file) (Anonymous / Associated Press)

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METRO: This is one of the photographs on display at the Marilyn Monroe exhibit in the basement of the Fairmont Hotel. According to the exhibit, this was one in a series of photos for an ad campaign for the potato industry. The collection is the Dolores Hope Masi Marilyn Collection. JOHN DAVENPORT / STAFF (JOHN DAVENPORT / SAN ANTONIO EXPRESS-NEWS)

METRO: This is one of the photographs on display at the Marilyn Monroe exhibit in the basement of the Fairmont Hotel. According to the exhibit, this was one in a series of photos for an ad campaign for the

This photo of Marilyn Monroe visiting with American troops is one of many of her on display at the Fairmount Hotel. The exhibit is part of the Dolores Hope Masi Marilyn collection. JOHN DAVENPORT / STAFF (JOHN DAVENPORT / SAN ANTONIO EXPRESS-NEWS)

This photo of Marilyn Monroe visiting with American troops is one of many of her on display at the Fairmount Hotel. The exhibit is part of the Dolores Hope Masi Marilyn collection. JOHN DAVENPORT / STAFF (JOHN

ADVANCE FOR WEEKEND EDITIONS, FEB. 1-4--A 1967 Andy Warhol silkscreen of Marilyn Monroe is part of a retrospective show running through March 18, 2001, at the International Center of Photography in New York. "Andy Warhol: Photography," features 300 images by a pioneer of the Pop art movement. (AP Photo/International Center of Photography) (AP)

ADVANCE FOR WEEKEND EDITIONS, FEB. 1-4--A 1967 Andy Warhol silkscreen of Marilyn Monroe is part of a retrospective show running through March 18, 2001, at the International Center of Photography in New York.

Tony Curtis and Marilyn Monroe in the hilarious milestone comedy, Some Like It Hot, produced, directed and co-scripted by Billy Wilder, United Artists, in this 1959 file photo. Curtis has died at 85 according to the Clark County, Nev. coroner. (AP Photo, File) (Anonymous / AP)

Tony Curtis and Marilyn Monroe in the hilarious milestone comedy, Some Like It Hot, produced, directed and co-scripted by Billy Wilder, United Artists, in this 1959 file photo. Curtis has died at 85 according

Marilyn Monroe: The Final Days. A newly edited version of the screen icon's last film, the never-completed ``Something's Got to Give,'' is the centerpiece of the new American Movie Classics documentary ``Marilyn Monroe: The Final Days,'' Friday, June 1 (8-10 p.m. ET). (AMERICAN MOVIE CLASSICS)

Marilyn Monroe: The Final Days. A newly edited version of the screen icon's last film, the never-completed ``Something's Got to Give,'' is the centerpiece of the new American Movie Classics documentary

Marilyn Monroe in 'There's No Business Like Show Business' (1954). (SHOOTING STAR / FILE PHOTO)

Marilyn Monroe in 'There's No Business Like Show Business' (1954). (SHOOTING STAR / FILE PHOTO)

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FILE - 25 JULY for 5 AUGUST 2012 for 50 YEAR ANNIVERSARY: Fifty years ago Hollywood actress Marilyn Monroe died in her home in Brentwood, Los Angeles, USA on August 5, 1962. http://www.gettyimages.com/Search/Search.aspx?EventId=119766312&EditorialProduct=Archival#&esource=maplinARC_uki_aug12 1954: American film star Marilyn Monroe (1926-1962). (Photo by Baron/Getty Images) (Baron / Getty Images)

Ronald Reagan shares a laugh with Marilyn Monroe in Los Angeles in this 1959 file photo. Reagan, the cheerful crusader who devoted his presidency to winning the Cold War, trying to scale back government and making people believe it was ``morning again in America,'' died Saturday, June 5, 2004, after a long twilight struggle with Alzheimer's disease. (AP Photo/HO, File) (AP)

Ronald Reagan shares a laugh with Marilyn Monroe in Los Angeles in this 1959 file photo. Reagan, the cheerful crusader who devoted his presidency to winning the Cold War, trying to scale back government and

This photograph released by the Brooklyn Museum of Art, titled "Marilyn Monroe, 1953" is part of show opening at the museum Friday, Nov. 12, 2004. The black and white photograph by Gene Kornman is one of more than 200 Monroe pictures from 39 photographers - including luminaries such as Richard Avedon, Gordon Parks, Robert Frank and Andy Warhol - in the museum's new exhibit, "I Want to Be Loved by You: Photographs of Marilyn Monroe." (AP Photo/Brooklyn Museum of Art, Gene Kornman) (GENE KORNMAN / AP)

This photograph released by the Brooklyn Museum of Art, titled "Marilyn Monroe, 1953" is part of show opening at the museum Friday, Nov. 12, 2004. The black and white photograph by Gene Kornman is one of more

FILE - In this July 7, 1958 file photo, actress Marilyn Monroe leaves New York by air for Hollywood, to start work on "Some Like It Hot," her first film in two years. (AP Photo, File) (Anonymous / Associated Press)

FILE - In this July 7, 1958 file photo, actress Marilyn Monroe leaves New York by air for Hollywood, to start work on "Some Like It Hot," her first film in two years. (AP Photo, File) (Anonymous / Associated

This photograph released by the Brooklyn Museum of Art, titled "Marilyn Monroe: Pulling Beads," is part of show opening at the museum Friday, Nov. 12, 2004. The 1962 pink tinted photograph by Bert Stern is one of more than 200 Monroe pictures from 39 photographers - including luminaries such as Richard Avedon, Gordon Parks, Robert Frank and Andy Warhol - in the museum's new exhibit, "I Want to Be Loved by You: Photographs of Marilyn Monroe." (AP Photo/Brooklyn Museum of Art, Bert Stern) (BERT STERN / AP)

This photograph released by the Brooklyn Museum of Art, titled "Marilyn Monroe: Pulling Beads," is part of show opening at the museum Friday, Nov. 12, 2004. The 1962 pink tinted photograph by Bert Stern is one

Actress Marilyn Monroe and playwright Arthur Miller embrace on the lawn of Miller's home in Roxbury, Conn., on June 29, 1956, several hours before they were married in White Plains, N.Y. Miller, the Pulitzer prize-winning playwright whose most famous fictional creation, Willy Loman in "Death of a Salesman," came to symbolize the American Dream gone awry, has died, his assistant said Friday, Feb. 11, 2005. He was 89. Miller died Thursday evening, said his assistant, Julia Bolus. (AP Photo) (AP)

Actress Marilyn Monroe and playwright Arthur Miller embrace on the lawn of Miller's home in Roxbury, Conn., on June 29, 1956, several hours before they were married in White Plains, N.Y. Miller, the Pulitzer

Marilyn Monroe wore a bikini in the 1962 movie 'Something's Got to Give'

Marilyn Monroe wore a bikini in the 1962 movie 'Something's Got to Give'

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Newlyweds Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller are shown after their civil wedding ceremony in White Plains, N.Y., on June 29, 1956. Their marriage, in a Jewish ceremony in England, was an event of high-level gossip for much of the world and of high-level curiosity for the United States government. "An anonymous telephone call" has been placed to the New York Daily News, an FBI report from the time notes. The caller, an "unidentified male," stated that Miller "had been and still was a member of the CP (Communist Party) and was their cultural front man" and that Monroe also "had drifted into the Communist Party orbit." The memo is one of many included in Miller's FBI files, obtained by The Associated Press through the Freedom of Information Act. (AP Photo) (AP)

Newlyweds Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller are shown after their civil wedding ceremony in White Plains, N.Y., on June 29, 1956. Their marriage, in a Jewish ceremony in England, was an event of high-level

In this photo provided by the Inge Morath Foundation, Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller are shown on the set of the film "The Misfits" in 1960, in Nevada. Rare photos of Monroe, Clark Gable, Montgomery Clift and other stars of "The Misfits" are featured in an exhibit, "Road to Reno: Inge Morath," running through July 15 at the Nevada Museum of Art in Reno. (AP Photo/ The Inge Morath Foundation/ Magnum Photos via the Nevada Museum of Art) **NO SALES. MAGS OUT. NO ARCHIVE. DO NOT CROP** (The Inge Morath Foundation / AP)

In this photo provided by the Inge Morath Foundation, Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller are shown on the set of the film "The Misfits" in 1960, in Nevada. Rare photos of Monroe, Clark Gable, Montgomery Clift and

FILE - In this Sept. 9, 1954 file photo, Marilyn Monroe poses over the updraft of New York subway grating while in character for the filming of "The Seven Year Itch" in Manhattan. The former Norma Jean Baker modeled and starred in 28 movies grossing $200 million. Sensual and seductive, but with an air of innocence, Monroe became one of the world's most adored sex symbols. She died alone by suicide, at age 36 in her Hollywood bungalow. (AP Photo/Matty Zimmerman, File) (Matty Zimmerman / Associated Press)

FILE - In this Sept. 9, 1954 file photo, Marilyn Monroe poses over the updraft of New York subway grating while in character for the filming of "The Seven Year Itch" in Manhattan. The former Norma Jean Baker

This image, taken in 1960, released by Julien's Auctions, shows a black and white photograph of Allan "Whitey" Snyder applying Marilyn Monroe's makeup on the set of "Lets Make Love." This item is part of Julien's Auctions Hollywood Legends being held on Saturday, March 31, 2012 and Sunday April 1 in Beverly Hills, Calif. (AP Photo/Julien's Auctions) (Anonymous / Associated Press)

This image, taken in 1960, released by Julien's Auctions, shows a black and white photograph of Allan "Whitey" Snyder applying Marilyn Monroe's makeup on the set of "Lets Make Love." This item is part of

In 1950, Marilyn Monroe wears a black crepe cocktail dress by Ceil Chapman. Chapman's trademark is the gathering of fabric onto a hip, topped by a rosette. The opera-length gloves add sophistication to the single shoulder strapped dress.

In 1950, Marilyn Monroe wears a black crepe cocktail dress by Ceil Chapman. Chapman's trademark is the gathering of fabric onto a hip, topped by a rosette. The opera-length gloves add sophistication to the

Before heading to the premiere of "How to Marry a Millonaire" in 1953, Marilyn Monroe adds a finishing touch to her architectural eyebrows that she favored. Her favorite makeup man, Alan "Whitey" Snyder, looks on.

Before heading to the premiere of "How to Marry a Millonaire" in 1953, Marilyn Monroe adds a finishing touch to her architectural eyebrows that she favored. Her favorite makeup man, Alan "Whitey" Snyder, looks

Sunday marks 50 years since the death of Marilyn Monroe, who a half-century later remains the ultimate icon of popular culture.

Monroe's calculated mix of wholesome goodness and sex goddess — going from brunette pin-up girl Norma Jeane Baker to the silver screen's blonde of all blondes — made her a legend. Her life, loves and death have been endlessly studied, chronicled, investigated, dissected and put back together in books, movies and television.

Now fashion visionary can be added to reasons for our enduring fascination with her.

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She did, after all, wear the most famous dress ever on film: a white halter with an accordion pleated circle skirt by William Travilla. The dress billowed above a New York subway grate in “The Seven Year Itch,” revealing her panties, much to her husband's — baseball great Joe DiMaggio — disappointment and anger. Many said it was the beginning of the couple's marriage breakdown.

Last year, Debbie Reynolds, who owned the dress, sold it for $5.6 million at a Profiles in History auction in Beverly Hills.

Later came Monroe's notoriously sheer gown, adorned with 4,000 rhinestones, that she wore as she breathlessly sang “Happy Birthday” to President John F. Kennedy on his 45th at Madison Square Garden. She promised to dress with decorum. Instead she wore no bra or panties under the Jean Louis gown she bought for $5,000. In 1999, it sold for more than $1.26 million at Christie's Auction House in New York.

Never snobbish about clothes, Monroe mixed off-the-rack outfits and costumes from her movies with selected high-end labels, Nickens said in a phone interview from his Hollywood home.

Monroe wore Ferragamo shoes, J.C. Penney denim and sweaters and carried Louis Vuitton handbags. She lounged in Capri pants and Emilio Pucci tops. She often went sans undergarments and wore a stripper's G-string under sheer designs.

“In her own way, she was a feminist,” Nickens says.

She sought up-and-coming designers, but on the screen she was dressed by the best costumers: Travilla, Louis, Dorothy Jeakins, Eloise Jenssen and others who created memorable movie looks for her, including Travilla's hot pink strapless number in which she crooned for diamonds in “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.” Madonna later copied it for her “Material Girl” music video in 1985.

But Monroe's most loved garment was her terry-cloth bathrobe, Nickens says. She wore it so often that she had a standing order for the $18.67 garment from Bullock's Wilshire, a defunct Los Angeles department store.

More Information

Top 4 iconic dresses

THE GOLD DRESS

This gown is well known to Monroe fans because she wore it in a stunning series of color portraits that are among her most famous. Fashioned from one complete circle of gold lamè fabric, the gown is knife-pleated with a halter neckline. Designed by William Travilla, the dress was worn briefly in "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes" and Monroe later wore the dress when she was feted with Photoplay magazine's "Fastest Rising Star of 1952" honor at the Beverly Hills Hotel.

THE JFK DRESS

Monroe promised to dress with modesty when she sang "Happy Birthday" to President John F. Kennedy in 1962 at Madison Square Garden. She turned to Jean Louis to create something "historic" that would show off her newly-slim figure. The clingy, rhinestone-embroidered dress dipped to the waist in the back and was so tight that Louis included a slit of 18 inches in the back so Monroe, who wore the dress sans undergarments, could walk in it. As stunning as the gown was, it was Monroe's bell-shaped hairdo with a sweeping soft-curled bang that was copied by women.

THE PINK DRESS

As Lorelei Lee in "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes," Monroe sang about diamonds being a girl's best friend while wearing in a hot pink belted floor-length strapless gown by William Travilla. Fox executives demanded that Monroe wear something "absolutely sexless" for the song and dance number in an effort to distance the actress from nude calendar photos that created a stir at the time. The dress was made of satin fabric and lined with felt for added stiffness so it could endure the song's rigorous choreography.

THE WHITE DRESS

Worn in 1955's "The Seven Year Itch," this dress also was known as the "subway dress." William Travilla designed the draped halter neck dress cut on the bias with a pleated sunburst circle skirt. Photos from the scene of the dress blowing in the breeze, revealing Monroe's panties, showed up in magazines and that soon catapulted Monroe to pop culture icon. It also contributed to the breakdown of her marriage to baseball great Joe DiMaggio.

She played to her curves with form-fitting silhouettes “instead of the styles of the time that included layered petticoats over voluminous skirts topped by Peter Pan collars,” he says.

And she kept fit for her skin-tight wardrobe by working out with weights, decades before the fitness craze.

“She wasn't all that interested,” he says about Taylor. “They'd put a dress on her but she always overdid it. She'd throw on a hat and two more necklaces.”

Monroe loved hats and fresh flowers, which she would place in her cleavage for decoration. Later in life, she wore wigs. (She was wearing one at her own funeral.)

In 1962, Monroe was found dead in her bedroom in west Los Angeles. She was 36. Her death was ruled “acute barbiturate poisoning” and listed as “probable suicide” though murder theories, too, are rumored.

A tangle of contradictions

Christopher Nickens, co-author of “Marilyn in Fashion,” talked recently about Monroe's style sense on and off the screen.

Q: What inspired you to write this book?

A: A “Project Runway” episode when the designers had to create something inspired by Jackie Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe. I realized that a fashion book about Marilyn hadn't been done. But I didn't want to do just movie costumes. Then I found out we had plenty of off-screen photos of what Marilyn wore as well as her private stuff. She had a tremendous idea of what was right for her. And as she got older she pared everything down to a minimum.

Q: Still, she remained provocative, childlike and coquettish all the while pushing the boundaries of fashion. Why?

A: Because she got such a reaction. In reality, before she became a starlet, she had a very wholesome image as a model in spite of her pinups. Once she decided to start acting, the sex appeal kicked in and that was the big difference. She realized, “OK, this is the way to go,” and she went full tilt. Of course, when she posed for that calendar of beautiful nudes, she saw how it didn't ruin her even though it was scandalous. If her fans would accept that, they certainly would — and did — accept a revealing dress. She definitely created the effect that she wanted. She was daring.

Q: Like Lady Gaga daring?

A: You know people talk about Lady Gaga wearing meat, but Marilyn was the first one who would just go out on a limb. Just look at the dress she wore when she sang to President Kennedy and the dress when she met the queen of England. Those were very highly publicized events because Marilyn was pretty daring for her day. No one had really done that. The actresses back then really tried to look dignified. But Marilyn managed to do both — to look elegant and sexy with a hint of wholesomeness. There always was a little bit of Norma Jean in her.

Q: She was a tangle of contradictions, as you point out.

A: She appealed to people with her little girl childlike quality, and then she could turn right around and be completely sizzling. Nobody has completely done that quite the same way. She liked playing it down in simple dresses and sportswear. She enjoyed hanging around in Levis and a T-shirt and even the Pucci dresses toward the end of her life were really quite simple. But when she had to knock the eyes out of her fans, she knew how to do it. She knew that the public wanted that high glamour. I think all great stars have contradictions.

Q: Why is it that many of us have never really thought of her as having fashion taste? Is it because she was so sexualized?

A: Back then no one bothered to ask, “Who are you wearing?” They were just so stunned by her looks, by her beautiful body. She once said that she didn't care for unorganic clothes, for clothes that had no relation to the body. She believed that her body, whether it was the best shape she was in or proportionately plump, should make her clothes look good.

Q: That's actually good advice. What else can women learn from Marilyn?

A: Confidence. It's not even about beauty. It's about confidence — and once you've got that going for you, then you can pull anything off — or keep it on.