

# Preserving

# Self-Sufficiency

# Carol Wilson
Copyright © 2009 by Carol Wilson

All Rights Reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any manner without the express written consent of the publisher, except in the case of brief excerpts in critical reviews or articles.All inquiries should be addressed to Skyhorse Publishing, 555 Eighth Avenue, Suite 903, NewYork, NY 10018.

Skyhorse Publishing books may be purchased in bulk at special discounts for sales promotion, corporate gifts, fund-raising, or educational purposes. Special editions can also be created to specifications. For details, contact the Special Sales Department, Skyhorse Publishing, 555 Eighth Avenue, Suite 903, NewYork, NY 10018 or info@skyhorsepublishing.com.

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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Wilson, Carol (Carol Ann), 1952-   
Preserving : self-sufficiency/ Carol Wilson.   
p. cm.   
Includes index.

9781602397897

1. Canning and preserving. I.Title.

TX601.W75 2009   
641.4'2--dc22   
200901602

Printed in China

# Table of Contents

Title Page  
Copyright Page  
INTRODUCTION  
PRESERVING  
Jams, jellies, and marmalades  
Fruit butters and curds  
Chutney  
Pickles  
Bottling  
Salting

# INTRODUCTION

There's something very satisfying about opening a cupboard and surveying the splendid rows of gleaming glass jars filled with homemade jams, jellies, chutneys, pickles, and bottled fruits. It always gives me a warm glow of achievement to know that all these delicious preserves are homemade from garden produce—if not my own then from a local farmer at a farmers' market.

Preserving fruits and vegetables is one of the oldest culinary traditions. Fruit preserves have a long history—the ancient Greeks used to preserve quinces by packing them into jars filled with honey and storing them until the fruit was soft. The arrival of sugar in Europe caused a revolution in the kitchen and by the 17th century it was more readily available and affordable, and preserving fruits with sugar became very fashionable.

Preserving vegetables with salt and/or vinegar has also been practiced since ancient times. Pickles were enjoyed in antiquity—Julius Caesar was reputed to have been very fond of pickles and Samuel Pepys mentions enjoying pickled "girkins" in his famous diary. Pickled gherkins and cucumbers began to be made in the 16th century in Germany and are still enormously popular there and elsewhere, as is sauerkraut (salted fermented cabbage).

All types of preserves were originally made to preserve fruits and vegetables from an all too fleeting summer and autumn, ready for consumption during the cold, harsh winter months.A good harvest of summer and autumn crops could produce an abundance of fruits and vegetables; too many to be eaten immediately and in the days before refrigeration, these needed to be preserved before they perished.

Fermented foods   
are a rich source of   
vitamins and minerals,   
as the process of   
fermentation   
increases the amounts   
of certain vitamins.

Different methods of preserving were created to prevent the food from decaying and to enable its consumption out of season; but gradually as time passed, preserved foods became popular foods in their own right—sweet jams and jellies provided deliciously fruity spreads for plain bread and cakes; bottled fruits kept their shape and color and could be enjoyed all year round; pickled and salted foods enhanced the taste of bland meals, and all could be enjoyed out of season. We still enjoy preserves today—who can resist a spoonful of homemade fragrant scarlet strawberry jam to brighten up simple bread and butter, or a helping of piquant chutney or pickles to enliven a plate of cheese or cold meats?

Previous generations had to preserve the culinary riches of summer and autumn for the bleak winter months out of necessity. Country housewives collected produce from cottage gardens and from the hedgerows, woods, and fields, and preserved them with sugar, salt, or vinegar. Some, such as bottled gooseberries and quince paste, were treasured as delicacies and were kept until Christmas to enjoy as a special treat.

The advent of refrigerators and freezers meant that people no longer had to rely on the old methods and the art of preserving was sadly almost lost for a while. Thankfully, self-sufficiency is back in vogue, partly from a desire for high quality foods with that inimitable real homemade taste, and partly from a wish to enjoy traditional cooking and preserving. It is important that these skills are not lost, and making your own preserves is not only enjoyable but will save you money, too.

In our great-grandmothers' day it was considered the norm for families to go out to gather fruits and vegetables in season, ready for "putting up preserves" in marathoncooking sessions. Nowadays, thanks to modern kitchens and equipment, it is quicker and easier than ever to make tasty preserves.

Gardens, shops, and the countryside all provide an abundance of produce in season and conserving a glut of seasonal produce is a time-honored method of filling the kitchen pantry. Whether your produce is homegrown from your garden or allotment, gathered from the wild or a farm nearby, or bought from a shop to take advantage of a seasonal glut being sold cheaply, finding a ready supply of produce has never been easier.

Homemade preserves make great presents and are much appreciated by the recipient. They are always popular at food fairs and markets and are a wonderful way of raising funds for charity fund-raisers. I've always enjoyed making preserves for friends and family, who love to receive them as gifts.There's a particular pleasure in giving something you've made yourself and of course they taste o much better than large-scale commercial versions, which are often horribly oversweetened or crammed with additives.What could be better than a shimmering amethyst blackberry jam or jelly made from freshly picked sun-ripened berries or tangy, pickled, crunchy vegetables?

The preserving methods in this book are clearly explained, together with details of the equipment needed, information on ingredients, cooking techniques, and storage instructions. The tried-and-tested recipes are clear and easy to follow with step-by-step instructions, plus a section at the end of each chapter on what can go wrong—usually this happens if a recipe isn't followed correctly or the preserves are incorrectly stored.

You'll find some old favorites as well as new and unusual preserves that will please you, your family, and friends—and of course they have the added appeal of being made with love and care.

# PRESERVING

There are several different methods of preserving fruits and vegetables and all give delicious results. Jams, jellies, fruit butters and curds, bottled fruits, chutneys, pickles, and salted vegetables are all practical and economical ways to preserve seasonal produce.

# Types of preserves

Jam is a thick mixture of fruit and sugar, cooked until the pieces of fruit are very soft and almost formless. Fruit jams were originally regarded as luxury foods and saved for celebrations and holidays.

Jelly is a crystal clear, translucent mixture made from fruit juice, sugar, and sometimes pectin. It should be brilliantly clear and the texture should wobble but still hold its shape.

Marmalade was originally a medieval confection made from quinces. Marmalades made from other fruits, such as cherries and plums, appeared in the 17th century, although these marmalades would not be familiar to us today, as they were firm enough to slice and were eaten as a dessert. As time passed, only citrus fruits were used to make marmalade. The first orange marmalade was made from bitter Seville oranges.

Fruit butter and curd don't necessarily contain butter; the name refers to their velvety, almost creamy texture, which is stiffer and smoother than that of jam. Fruit butters are soft and spreadable, while curds are thicker. Both have only a short shelf life as they don't contain as much sugar in proportion to fruit as jam, so are usually made in small quantities and stored in the refrigerator.

"all these methods are both practical and economical ways of preserving seasonal produce"

Chutney is a sweet-spicy relish made with sugar and vinegar. It originated in India (the name comes from chatni, meaning a strong, sweet relish) and first appeared in Europe in the 17th century, when it became very popular for spicing up bland foods. Chutney is cooked slowly to produce a rich, full flavor and may be very hot and spicy or mild and aromatic, depending on the ingredients used.

Pickles are a time-honored method of preserving vegetables in a brine or vinegar mixture and may be sour, sweet, hot, or mild. The English word "pickle" is derived from the medieval word pikel, which meant "a spicy sauce served with meat or fowl," which is related to the Middle Dutch word pekel, meaning a solution (usually spiced brine) for preserving and flavoring food.Vinegar is a powerful preservative as few bacteria can survive in its acidic environment. The vegetables stay crisp and develop a tangy flavor. Cucumbers are the most commonly-pickled vegetables in Eastern Europe, often with spices, herbs, and sometimes a few oak or cherry leaves added to the vinegar for extra flavor.

Bottling fruit is a practice that dates back to antiquity; the ancient Romans filled jars with fruits and covered them with juice, wine, vinegar, or honey, then sealed the jars to make them airtight. Nowadays bottled fruits are prepared by sterilizing the fruit in large widenecked jars, so that the fruit stays whole. Any fruit can be bottled, including fruits such as peaches and tomatoes which can't be preserved by freezing. Bottled fruit keeps indefinitely and is ready to serve as soon as it is made. As the fruit remains whole, bottled fruit is usually eaten as a dessert with cream, ice cream, or custard.

Salting vegetables is an ancient method of preservation and is excellent for preserving runner and French beans in particular, which have a completely different flavor from canned or frozen beans. In Eastern Europe, salting vegetables and even some fruits is a common practice. Salted white cabbage (sauerkraut) is left until it has fermented and is particularly popular in Germany and Eastern Europe. Fermented foods are a rich source of vitamins and minerals, as the process of fermentation increases the amounts of certain vitamins; sauerkraut for instance is a very good source of vitamin C and was often included in military rations in ancient armies and was used to prevent scurvy.

# Jams, jellies, and marmalades

These jewel-colored fruit preserves have been popular for hundreds of years, are an economical way of using up an oversupply of fruit, and wonderful for preserving the flavors of luscious seasonal fruits to enjoy all year round.They are delicious as a spread for bread, a filling for tarts and sponge cakes, and melted as a dessert sauce for ice cream.

# Equipment

Use a large, deep, heavy-based pan with plenty of room for the mixture to boil rapidly without boiling over. Special preserving pans are available, which are wider at the top with sloping sides to aid evaporation and ensure setting point is reached more quickly. It's worth investing in a preserving pan if you intend to make a lot of preserves.

A sturdy wooden spoon with a long handle is best to ensure your hands are not too close to the boiling mixture when stirring.

A sugar/preserving thermometer is useful, but not essential, to test that the correct temperature for setting point has been reached.

For jelly-making you will need a jelly bag (from cookware stores) which should be scalded first by pouring boiling water through it, so that the fruit juices don't soak into it.

A wide funnel is helpful when filling the jars, but a jug or a small ladle can be used instead.

Mason jars are ideal for storing homemade preserves and come in a range of sizes. A Mason jar is a glass jar which has a lid in two sections to ensure an airtight seal. Both sections of the lid are usually made from metal. The original Mason jar is sometimes mistaken for the more widely available glass jar with a rubber seal and a metal hinge, which when closed forms an airtight seal. These jars can be used instead of Mason jars.

You can buy special packs containing glass jars and lids and also packs of waxed circles (these are placed waxed-side down on top of the potted preserve, while still hot, to exclude air and prevent deterioration), transparent cellophane covers (dampened and placed on top of the potted preserve when it is completely cold, then secured with a rubber band.The cellophane shrinks as it dries to form a tight seal over the jar), and rubber bands in varying sizes from cookware and kitchen stores. Don't use the same equipment for vinegar preserves when making jam as cross contamination will spoil the flavor of the jam.

# Sterilizing jars

Jars must be scrupulously clean and warm before being filled to the brim to allow for shrinkage. Wash the jars in hot, soapy water, rinse very well, and put in a low oven for 15-20 minutes until warm and completely dry. Sterilize the lids in boiling water for 10 minutes, keeping them in the hot water until ready for use, then dry thoroughly with paper towels.An old country method to discourage mold from forming in stored jams was to brush the surface of the jar lids or the waxed discs with brandy before placing them over the hot jam.

# Ingredients

Fruit for jams and jellies must be completely dry, firm, fresh, and ripe or slightly underripe, but don't use overripe produce, as this may cause the finished preserve to ferment during storage. There's no need to remove pits that are difficult to dislodge from fruit—when the jam is boiling the pits will float to the top and can be taken out then.

Fruit is prepared according to type when making jam, but there's no need to do this when making jelly as the fruit is strained in a jelly bag and the seeds, cores, skins, etc. are left in the jelly bag during the straining process.

# Popular fruits for jams and jellies

Apples come in all shades of reds, greens, and yellows and may be sweet, tart, soft, and smooth or crisp and crunchy, depending on the variety. Cooking apples are larger and have a sharper flavor than eating apples.

Apricots have fragrant, juicy flesh with a large pit in the center that can be removed easily if the fruit is ripe.

Blackberries are best when plump and ripe and full of juice. Cultivated blackberries lack the deep flavor of wild berries but are still delicious and have the advantage of having fewer seeds than the wild variety.

Blackcurrants have a rich, strong, sharp flavor and the dark purple berries are very popular for making into jam.

Blueberries, also known as whortleberries or huckleberries have a slight dusty bloom and tart flavor. They should be ripe but firm.

Cherries may be almost black, bright red, pale pink, or yellow in color. It's best to taste them before buying to check if they're sweet enough for your taste.

Elderberries are the purple-black fruit of the elder tree. They must never be eaten raw and are always cooked.

Gooseberries may be green, yellow, or red, although the sour green berries are the best for cooking.

Mulberries are similar to blackberries but are more elongated and may be white, red, or black. They have a mild sweet flavor and make excellent jams.

Peaches, when ripe, have a fragrant odor and the velvety skin may be red, blushed pink, yellow, or white. One side of the fruit has a distinctive vertical indentation.

Pears have fine, soft, juicy flesh which, unusually, improves in both flavor and texture after they're picked.The skin may be bronze, green, pink, or red.

Plums may be blue, green, purple, red, or yellow. The flesh is thick and juicy and the flavor ranges from sweet to tart. Damsons are a variety of plum, much smaller than cultivated plums, with a tart, strong flavor. When cooked, their flavor has a faint hint of almonds with a touch of spice.

Damsons are indigestible when raw, but the sharp-tasting fruit is transformed during cooking and makes wonderful preserves. Greengages have a tender green-yellow or golden skin. The translucent golden flesh has an exquisitely sweet flavor, and it is regarded as one of the finest dessert plums.Victoria plums have yellow- to rose-colored skins and their pink-hued flesh is rich, sweet, and juicy when ripe. Before the fruit is fully ripe it is particularly good for making preserves.

"preserving sugar dissolves quicker and creates less foam than ordinary sugar"

Quinces are exquisitely perfumed and although hard and inedible when raw, make delectable preserves. The fruit has a yellowish-green skin covered with down which is scrubbed off before using.

Raspberries are sweet and fragrant with a velvety texture. Choose bright, firm berries, which may be red or yellow.

Rhubarb is actually a vegetable but is often eaten as a fruit. "Forced" rhubarb should have tender pink stems, which have a refreshingly tart flavor. There's no need to peel young rhubarb, just remove any stringy bits. When using outdoor-grown rhubarb, choose red stems—if the stems are green the flavor will be very sour and acid. It is important to note that rhubarb leaves are highly poisonous and must be discarded.

Strawberries have a glorious scented flavor and soft, luscious texture. Choose firm, plump, scarlet berries with very few green or white patches.Very large berries often lack flavor. Don't wash them until just before you want to use them.

Rinse the fruits very gently and hull the berries after washing to avoid making them soggy—the hull acts as a "plug."

Sugar is the preserving agent and granulated white sugar is fine. It is not essential to buy special preserving sugar, although the larger crystals dissolve quickly and create less foam than ordinary sugar and produce a clearer, more translucent jam. Preserving sugar is meant to be used with fruits high in pectin, such as gooseberries and blackcurrants. Jam sugar is granulated sugar with added pectin and is designed for fruits low in pectin, such as strawberries, cherries, and rhubarb. Brown sugar is not recommended (unless specifically stated in the ingredients) as these tend to produce a lot of foam.

Pectin, a natural gelling agent found in ripe fruit, helps jam and jelly to set. The amount of pectin present depends on the type of fruit and its ripeness. Some fruits, including apples, blackcurrants, and quinces have high levels of pectin, while others such as cherries, elderberries, and strawberries are low in pectin and must have additional pectin added for good results. Lemon juice, which is naturally high in pectin, or commercial liquid or powdered pectin should be added in this case, and this will be stated in the recipe.

# Other types of sugar

Demerara: large, sparkling golden crystals with a sticky, crunchy texture and light molasses flavor.

Light muscovado: moist, fine-grained crystals with a rich aroma and glorious fudgy flavor.

Dark muscovado: a dark brown sugar with a sticky texture and rich, toffee flavor.

Molasses: the richest of all the sugars, with a distinctive deep, dark flavor.

# Cooking

# Jams

Warm the sugar first by spreading it on a baking tray and placing in a low oven at 250°F for about 10 minutes before adding to the fruit and water to enable it to dissolve more quickly.

Lightly greasing the inside of the pan with butter before you start making jam will help to reduce the amount of foam on the surface of the boiling mixture.The pan should never be more than half full to ensure sufficient space for rapid boiling after the sugar has been added.The fruit should simmer slowly at first to ensure that all the pectin is extracted. Cover the pan while the fruit is simmering.

The sugar is added when the fruit is soft and should be allowed to dissolve completely before the mixture is brought to a boil. Whichever type of sugar you use, it must be completely dissolved before the mixture is brought to a boil. If the sugar is not dissolved completely when the mixture starts boiling, the preserve will be difficult to set and is likely to crystallize during storage.To test if the sugar is dissolved, dip a wooden spoon in the mixture, and if no sugar crystals are visible in the liquid that coats the back of the spoon, it will have dissolved. Uncover the pan when the sugar has been added and stir only occasionally to prevent sticking and burning.

"the pan should never be more than half full to ensure sufficient space for rapid boiling"

As it cools, the jam   
will begin to set and will   
wrinkle when pushed   
gently with your finger   
and will remain in two   
separate parts when you   
draw your finger   
through it.

The mixture should then boil steadily and rapidly to ensure setting point is reached in the shortest time. Don't stir the mixture continually while it is boiling as this will lower the temperature and delay the setting point.

A good set depends on the amounts of pectin, acid (naturally found in fruit), and sugar.Acid helps to release the pectin which works with sugar to form a gel and to set the jam. Some jams will reach setting point after just a few minutes' boiling, while others will take 15 minutes or more.

To tell when setting point has been reached, remove the pan from the heat and put a teaspoon of the boiling mixture on a chilled saucer.As it cools, the jam will begin to set and will wrinkle when pushed gently with your finger and will remain in two separate parts when you draw your finger through it. It is a good idea to have ready three or four saucers in the freezer or refrigerator for testing purposes.

If using a sugar thermometer, keep this in warm water until ready to use, so that the temperature of the boiling jam isn't reduced too much when you put it into the mixture.

Don't let the thermometer touch the base of the pan or you may get a false reading. Turn the thermometer around in the mixture, so that you have an accurate reading. It should read 220ºF.

If setting point hasn't been reached, return to the heat and boil for only a few minutes before testing again. Don't overcook; if the mixture is boiled for too long it won't set.

If using whole fruits, the recipe will state to let the hot jam stand for several minutes before pouring into jars. This is so that the fruit does not rise to the top of the jars when the jam is poured. If the jam or jars are too hot, fruit will rise to the top, spoiling the appearance of the finished product. When setting point has been reached, remove the pan from the heat and let the mixture stand for about 10-15 minutes, until a skin forms on the surface. Skim off any foam and stir once to distribute the fruit before pouring into the warmed jars. Alternatively, after removing the pan from the heat, stir in a small pad of butter to disperse the foam.

Stand the warmed jars on folded newspaper or a wooden board to prevent cracking when the hot jam or jelly is poured in. Pour the mixture into the jars, filling them to the brim, as the jam will shrink a little as it cools. The less air space there is in the jars, the better the jam or jelly will keep.

Wipe the outside of the filled jars and cover the surface of the hot jam with waxed circles, waxed side down. If you forget to cover the jam with the discs while the jam is still hot, leave until completely cold, otherwise mold may grow on the surface if the jam is covered while only warm.

Store in a cool,   
dark, dry, and   
ventilated place as   
preserves tend to   
lose a little color if   
exposed to light.

Now allow the jam to cool before applying the wetted cellophane covers. If these are applied before the jam is cooled, water can condense inside the covers, causing mold.

Seal tightly with either plastic lids, metal screw top lids, or wetted cellophane covers (wetted side up) and rubber bands. Transparent cellophane covers will shrink as they dry to form a tight seal.

Finally, label with the name of the jam and the date, and store in a cool, dark, dry, and well-ventilated place. Some preserves tend to lose a little color if exposed to light. A warm, moist atmosphere will cause the jam to shrink, and dampness will encourage mold. Most jams will keep for up to a year. Once opened, store in the refrigerator.

# Jellies

Making jelly is almost identical to making jam, and the equipment is much the same. However, you will also need a jelly bag. This is made of heavyduty cotton, muslin, or nylon with a very close weave. The bag must be scalded with boiling water before use to sterilize it and to avoid the fruit juices soaking into the bag.

Fruits high in pectin, such as blackcurrants, redcurrants, and gooseberries, are best for jelly making. Those with a low pectin content, such as blackberries or cherries, are best combined with a high-pectin fruit, such as redcurrants or apples, or made using sugar with pectin. There's no need to de-pit, hull, or core fruit for jellies as the cooked mixture is strained through a jelly bag. The fruit should be cooked slowly to extract the pectin.

Suspend the jelly bag from a hook or from the legs of an upturned stool or chair and place a large bowl underneath to catch the juice. Ladle the fruit pulp and juices into the jelly bag and leave to drip into the bowl for several hours or overnight. Don't squeeze the bag to speed up the process or the jelly will be cloudy.

"fruits high in pectin—blackcurrants, redcurrants, and gooseberries—are best for jelly making"

The juice is then boiled with the sugar until setting point is reached—the amount of sugar needed depends on the type and weight of the fruits used and will be stated in the recipe.The cooking time can vary from 30 minutes to over one hour, depending on the ripeness of the fruit. Because of the method used to extract the juice, it is difficult to estimate the final amount produced, so it is best to have ready more warmed jars than you think you will need.As a general guide, 2 lb. sugar should make about 3 lb. jelly. Jellies are best jarred as soon as possible; if left to stand they start to gel in the pan.

The high temperature causes the pectin to react, so the boiling mixture must not be stirred, although you can skim off the foam that rises to the top as the mixture boils.

Jelly is jarred in the same way as jam (see page 23). Remove any foam from the top of the jelly with a metal spoon or stir slowly to disperse. To keep air bubbles from forming, tilt the jar and pour in the hot jelly slowly. Seal and label. Don't move the jars until the jelly has set completely. Once opened, store in the refrigerator.

# Marmalade

Marmalade is made in the same way as jam (see page 23), but because it is made with citrus fruit it needs a longer cooking time. The tough peel needs to be cooked for longer until soft, so more water is required. The same equipment is required for making marmalade as for jams and jellies, with the addition of a sharp knife and a juice extractor.

Bitter or Seville oranges, with their fragrant aromatic peel and intensely flavored astringent juice, are frequently used in marmalades. Use a zester or potato peeler to remove the rind. Don't include the white pith as this will give a bitter taste.

Lemons have a sharp citrus flavor. Choose thin-skinned fruits (those with a thicker peel will have less flesh and therefore be less juicy) that are heavy for their size and bright yellow. Avoid any that are tinged with green as they're not fully ripe and will be very acidic. Use unwaxed citrus fruits if possible; otherwise the fruit must be well-scrubbed under hot running water to remove the protective waxy coating of fungicide. Use a potato peeler to remove the rind in thin strips and don't include the white pith.

Don't include   
the white pith in   
your marmalade,   
as this will give a   
bitter taste.

Limes are oval or round in shape with green flesh and skin and are more fragrant than lemons. Choose limes that are firm and heavy for their size, with deep green, shiny skin. Use unwaxed fruits if possible.

Grapefruit are large citrus fruits with a refreshingly tart flavor and yellow or pink rind and are available in both seeded and seedless varieties. Choose fruits that are heavy for their size (which indicates a good amount of juicy flesh) and have a sweet aroma.

Citrus fruits must be well-scrubbed to remove any waxy coating or fungicide and then dried thoroughly. The peel may be cut finely or coarsely, according to preference.The pectin, which gives the set, is mainly contained in the pith and seeds, so these must not be discarded but tied loosely in a piece of muslin and added to the pan. The secret of good marmalade is fast boiling: test after 15 minutes, then every 5 minutes after that. Test for setting in the same way as for jam (see page 22-23).

When setting point has been reached, remove the pan from the heat and let the mixture stand for about 10-20 minutes, when a skin will form on the surface. This prevents the peel rising to the surface after jarring. Stir once before pouring into the jars so the peel will be suspended evenly in the jelly.

Cover the marmalade with a waxed disc when hot, but seal with a cellophane cover or lid when cold to prevent condensation.

# What can go wrong?

Moldy or fermented jam, jelly, or marmalade occurs if the preserve is jarred while warm (instead of hot or cold), if the jars are unsterilized, insufficiently covered or sealed, or if stored in a damp place. If there is just a thin layer of grayish-white mold on top of the jam or jelly, scrape it off completely and taste the preserve. If it tastes pleasant, then it can be eaten and should be stored in the refrigerator. If the mold is evident throughout the preserve, then it will be inedible and should be thrown away.

Crystallization (small sugary crystals that form during storage) occurs if the sugar is not completely dissolved before boiling, if too much sugar is used for the proportion of fruit, or if the preserve is cooked for too long.As this can't be rectified, it is probably best to use the jam or jelly as a hot sauce.

Dull jam, jelly, or marmalade is due to cooking too long after adding the sugar.

"dull jam, jelly, or marmalade is due to cooking too long after adding the sugar"

Bubbles dispersed in jelly is due to leaving the jelly too long before potting, causing it to over-thicken, trapping bubbles of air. Foam that hasn't been removed before potting will also spoil the appearance of a jelly but won't affect the taste.

Cloudy jelly is due to pressing or squeezing the jelly bag in an attempt to speed up the process while the juice is dripping through the bag.

Fruit pieces rising in the jam are due to jarring too soon.

The jam should be allowed to rest for the time stated in the recipe before transferring into jars.

Tough marmalade peel is due to the peel not being sufficiently softened in the fruit juice before adding the sugar.

This cannot be remedied once the marmalade is made, so check that the peel is very soft before adding the sugar.

Very dark, sticky jam or marmalade means it was overcooked.

Stiff and rubbery jam is caused by using wrong proportions, usually insufficient sugar and water for the quantity of fruit.

Jam shrinking away from the sides of the jar is caused by boiling for too long or not creating an airtight seal when covering the jars. Re-cover the jars to prevent further evaporation.

Runny jam or jelly is caused by using overripe fruit or insufficient pectin, too much sugar, or not boiling for long enough. Use it as a sauce instead.

"If your jam or jelly is too runny use it as a sauce rather than wasting it"

# Apple and blackberry jam

This combination of fruits is an old country favorite. Blackberries are low in pectin but because the apples have a high pectin level, this jam sets well. In late summer and early autumn, blackberries grow profusely in the wild and these have more flavor than the cultivated variety.

  * ☑ 3¾ cups (1 lb 8 oz) cooking apples, peeled and cored weight
  * ☑ ⅔ cup water
  * ☑ 8 cups blackberries
  * ☑ 7⅓ cups granulated sugar

1 Chop the apples into small pieces and put into a large, heavy-based pan with the water. Bring to a boil, then simmer gently for 10 minutes.

2 Add the blackberries and continue to simmer gently for another 10 minutes, until the mixture is a soft purée.

3 Stir in the sugar until completely dissolved, then bring back to a boil. Boil rapidly for about 15-20 minutes, until setting point is reached.

4 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Apple, pear, and plum jam

This was a popular 19th-century recipe and is a delicious way to use up an oversupply of seasonal fruit, and windfall apples and pears.You can use any variety of fruit in this recipe. Plums come in dozens of varieties, shapes, sizes, and colors, ranging from green to red, through deep purple to almost black.

  * ☑ 5 cups (2 lbs) cooking apples
  * ☑ 5 cups (2 lbs) pears
  * ☑ 5 cups (2 lbs) plums
  * ☑ Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
  * ☑ 12 cups granulated sugar

1 Peel and core the apples and pears. Cut the plums in half and remove the pits. Put all the fruit into a large, heavy-based pan, with the lemon zest and juice.

2 Heat gently to boiling point, then reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer very gently until the fruit is soft—if it starts to stick to the pan, add a little water. The actual cooking time needed will depend on the ripeness of the fruit.

3 Stir in the sugar until completely dissolved, then bring to a boil. Boil rapidly for about 15-20 minutes, until setting point is reached.

4 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Apricot jam

Beautiful orange apricots are one of the first fruits of summer. The fruit is low in pectin so lemon juice is added to the recipe.You could also use sugar that contains pectin. Add the kernels to the jam just before setting point is reached, otherwise they will become too soft.

  * ☑ 10 cups (5 lbs) fresh apricots
  * ☑ 2 cups water
  * ☑ Juice of 1 lemon
  * ☑ 10½ cups granulated sugar

1 Cut the apricots in half and remove the pits. Crack 6-8 pits to remove the seeds and blanch the seeds by dipping them in boiling water for one minute. These will give extra flavor to the jam.

2 Put the fruit into a large, heavy-based pan with the water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 20 minutes until soft.

3 Stir in the lemon juice and sugar until completely dissolved, then bring to a boil. Boil rapidly for about 15-20 minutes, until setting point is reached. Add the seeds to the pan just before setting point is reached.

4 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Blueberry jam

The small dark purple berries have a faint dusty "bloom" and are also known as bilberries or whortlebeberries. The berries grow on bushes and have a distinctive, richly aromatic but tart flavor. The skins soften quickly and their pectin content ensures the jam sets quickly.

  * ☑ 4½ cups (1 lb) blueberries
  * ☑ 2⅓ cups granulated sugar

1 Put the blueberries into a large, heavy-based pan. Heat gently to boiling point, then reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer very gently for about 10 minutes until the fruit is soft and the juices begin to flow. The actual time will depend on the ripeness of the fruit.

2 Stir in the sugar until completely dissolved, then bring to a boil. Boil rapidly for about 10-15 minutes, until setting point is reached.

3 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Blackcurrant jam

These astringent little blueish-black berries grow on shrubs and have a sweetsharp flavor.They have high levels of health-boosting antioxidants—natural compounds (responsible for the fruit's dark color) which are credited with the ability to stave off a range of illnesses.

  * ☑ 4½ cups (1 lb) blackcurrants
  * ☑ 1¼—2 cups water
  * ☑ 2⅞ cups granulated sugar

1 Strip the berries from the stalks with a fork into a large, heavy-based pan. Add the water and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 20-30 minutes until the fruit is soft.

2 Add the sugar and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely. Bring to a boil and boil rapidly for about 10-15 minutes, until setting point is reached.

3 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal and label.

# Cherry jam

Cherries can be very dark, almost black, bright red, pale pink, or yellow. Small, dark red, wild cherries are also known as "geans" (from the French rom) and may be sweet or bitter. Leaving the cherry pits in while you cook them imparts a delicate almond flavor to the finished jam.

  * ☑ 3 cups (1½ lbs) firm dessert cherries
  * ☑ 3 Tbsp water juice
  * ☑ 1 Tbsp lemon juice
  * ☑ 2 cups granulated sugar

1 Put the cherries into a large, heavy-based pan with the water. The pits add flavor to the jam and can be removed when the jam is boiling.

2 Heat gently to boiling point, then reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer very gently until the fruit is soft—if it starts to stick to the pan add a little more water. The actual time will depend on the ripeness of the fruit.

3 Stir in the lemon juice and sugar until completely dissolved, then bring to a boil. Boil rapidly for about 15-20 minutes, until setting point is reached.

4 Remove the pan from the heat, then remove the pits with a slotted spoon. Allow to stand for a few minutes and stir to distribute the fruit. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Gooseberry and elderflower jam

Although red and yellow varieties of gooseberry are sweeter than green, the small, hard, green berries are best for cooking as they have more flavor. The raw berries are sharp- and sour-tasting, but their acidity is transformed when cooking them with sugar. Elderflowers add a delicate muscat flavor. Pick the creamy white flowers well away from the roadside and traffic fumes, give them a gentle shake to dislodge any insects, and rinse briefly in cold water before using.

  * ☑ 15 cups (3⅓ lbs) hard, slightly under ripe gooseberries, topped and tailed
  * ☑ 2 small heads of elderflowers, stems removed and tied in muslin
  * ☑ 2½ cups water
  * ☑ 7⅞ cups granulated sugar

1 Put the gooseberries, elderflowers, and water into a large, heavy-based pan.

2 Heat gently to boiling point, then reduce the heat. Cover the pan and simmer very gently for about 20-30 minutes, until the skins are soft, stirring from time to time to prevent the fruit sticking. The actual time will depend on the ripeness of the fruit.

3 Stir in the sugar until completely dissolved, then bring to a boil. Boil rapidly for about 15-20 minutes, until setting point is reached.

4 Remove the pan from the heat, then discard the elderflowers. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Greengage jam

Greengages are small- to medium-sized plums with a tender green-yellow or golden skin.The translucent golden flesh is wonderfully sweet. The fruit is high in pectin and produces superb jam.

  * ☑ 17 cups (6⅝ lbs) greengages
  * ☑ 2½ cups water
  * ☑ 15⅔ cups granulated sugar

1 Cut the fruit in half and remove the pits. If the fruit is too firm to remove the pits easily, cook the fruit with the pits in and remove with a slotted spoon while the jam is boiling.

2 Crack 8-10 pits to remove the seeds and blanch the seeds by dipping them in boiling water for one minute. These will give extra flavor to the jam.

3 Put the fruit into a large, heavy-based pan with the water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 30 minutes, until soft. The actual time will depend on the ripeness of the fruit.

4 Stir in the sugar until completely dissolved, then bring to a boil. Boil rapidly for about 15-20 minutes, until setting point is reached.Add the seeds to the pan just before setting point is reached.

5 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Marrow and ginger jam

The marrow is a member of the squash family and as it grows, it swells up with water, so the flesh is watery with a very delicate, almost insipid flavor. Marrows have long been used to make jam, and ginger is usually included to add a kick to the rather bland taste.

  * ☑ 16 cups (11 lbs) marrow, peeled and seeded weight
  * ☑ 10⅕ cups granulated sugar
  * ☑ 5¾ Tbsp crystallized ginger, finely choped
  * ☑ Juice of 3 lemons

1 Cut the marrow into small pieces. Put into a large, heavy-based pan with the sugar and ginger, cover and leave overnight.

2 Stir well and place over a low heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved completely.Add the lemon juice and bring to a boil. Boil steadily for about 30 minutes, until setting point is reached.

3 Remove the pan from the heat. Allow to stand for a few minutes and stir to distribute the marrow pieces. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Mulberry and plum jam

Dark crimson mulberries make a luxurious and unusual jam.The medium to large fruit has a yellow to rose colored skin and the pinkish flesh is rich, sweet, and juicy when ripe. Before the fruit is fully ripe it is particularly good for making excellent jam. If you can't get hold of mulberries, use blackberries instead.

  * ☑ 8 cup (2½) lbs mulberries
  * ☑ 5¾ cups (2⅕ lbs) Victoria plums
  * ☑ 1¼ cups water
  * ☑ Granulated sugar
  * ☑ Juice of 1 lemon
  * ☑ Pad of unsalted butter

1 Put the mulberries and plums in a large, heavy-based pan with the water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently until soft.

2 Press the mixture though a sieve into a bowl. In a measuring cup, measure the mixture back into the pan. To each 2½cups fruit mixture add 2⅓cups sugar.

3 Add the lemon juice and bring slowly to a boil, then boil rapidly for about 15-20 minutes, until setting point is reached.

4 Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the butter. Allow to stand for 5 minutes. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Peach and walnut jam

Velvet-skinned, fresh, juicy peaches and crisp-textured walnuts are combined to make an unusual jam with a delightful flavor. Old gardens yield rich-tasting walnuts with crinkled surfaces. When young they have a fresh, milky flavor and better texture than the rather woody specimens available in some stores.

  * ☑ 2 cups (1 lb) ripe peaches
  * ☑ 2½ cups (1 lb) ripe fruit, such as pears, apples, etc.
  * ☑ 3½ cups granulated sugar
  * ☑ ⅖ cup walnuts, chopped

1 Peel all the fruit and cut into small pieces. Put into a large, heavy-based pan with the sugar. Stir over a low heat until completely dissolved, then bring to a boil. Boil rapidly for about 15-20 minutes, until thick and setting point is reached. Stir in the walnuts and boil for one minute.

2 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Raspberry jam

Velvety red or yellow raspberries are among summer's most delicious fruits. Make the most of their fleeting appearance with this beautiful scarlet-colored jam. When sugar became affordable to all in the 18th century, it became very fashionable to make jams and preserves from these berries.

  * ☑ 16 cups (4⅖ lbs) raspberries
  * ☑ 10⅖ cups granulated sugar

1 Put the raspberries into a large, heavy-based pan. Crush the fruit with a wooden spoon to release the juices. Heat gently to boiling point, then simmer until the juices run.

2 Stir in the sugar until completely dissolved, then bring to a boil.

3 If you prefer a seedless jam, press the fruit and juices through a sieve and return to the rinsed pan. Boil rapidly for about 8-12 minutes until setting point is reached.

4 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Rhubarb and ginger jam

The sharp, fresh taste of rhubarb has a special affinity with ginger. Limp rhubarb can be perked up by standing the stems upright in iced water for about an hour.

  * ☑ 15 cups (3 lb 5 oz) rubarb, chopped into small pieces
  * ☑ Juice of 1 lemon
  * ☑ 6⅘ cups ganulated sugar
  * ☑ ⅖ cup (4 oz) crystallized ginger, chopped

1 Put the rhubarb, lemon juice, and sugar into a large bowl. Cover and leave to stand for 24 hours.

2 Pour the mixture into a large pan and add the ginger. Heat very gently over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely, then increase the heat and bring to a boil. Boil rapidly for about 20 minutes until setting point is reached.

3 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

NB: Rhubarb leaves contain oxalic acid, so are highly poisonous and must be discarded.

# Strawberry jam

Strawberries are plentiful in the summer and their sunny-scented, fruity flavor makes for superb jam. Rinse the fruits very gently and hull the berries after washing to avoid making them soggy as the hull acts as a "plug."

  * ☑ 13¼ cups (4⅖ lbs) strawberries
  * ☑ 8⅓ cups granulated sugar
  * ☑ Juice of 2 large lemons (about 10 Tbsp)

1 Cut any very large strawberries into smaller pieces to speed up the cooking time. Put the strawberries into a large, heavy-based pan over a low heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 10-15 minutes, until the fruit is softened.

2 Add the sugar and lemon juice and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely. Bring to a boil and boil rapidly for about 15-20 minutes, until setting point is reached.

3 Remove the pan from the heat. Skim off any foam and allow the jam to cool for 15 minutes, to ensure the strawberries are distributed evenly. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Tomato apple jam

Botanically, the tomato is really a fruit and in the past many people used to eat them as a fruit.Tomato jams were popular at the end of the 19th century, when the tomatoes were often combined with other fruit.This sweet preserve is delicious as an accompaniment to cakes or scones and as a topping for steamed pudding.

  * ☑ 2½ cups (1 lb) cooking apples, peeled and cored
  * ☑ 2⅘ cups (1 lb) red tomatoes, skinned and finely chopped
  * ☑ 3 Tbsp water
  * ☑ 5¼ cups granulated sugar

1 Chop the apples finely and put into a large heavy-based pan with the tomatoes and water. Bring to a boil, then simmer gently for about 15 minutes, until the fruits are soft and mushy.

2 Stir in the sugar until completely dissolved, then bring to a boil. Boil rapidly for about 15-20 minutes, until setting point is reached.

3 Remove the pan from heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Blackberry jelly

Blackberries or brambles are low in pectin so lemon juice is essential in this recipe. To help the jelly set, you can include some unripe red blackberries if you wish. This dark purple jelly is wonderful as a filling for sponge cakes or as an accompaniment to roast lamb.

  * ☑ 8 cups (2¼ lbs) blackberries
  * ☑ ⅔ cup water
  * ☑ Granulated sugar
  * ☑ Lemon juice

1 Put the blackberries (there's no need to top and tail them) into a large, heavy-based pan with the water. Place over a low heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 40-60 minutes, until the fruit is very soft.

2 Ladle the fruit and juices into a scalded jelly bag. Strain through the jelly bag overnight.

3 Measure the juice into a large, heavy-based pan and to every 2½ cups juice, add 2⅓ cups sugar and 2 tablespoons lemon juice.

4 Heat the juice, sugar, and lemon juice, and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely. Bring to a boil and boil rapidly for about 10 minutes, until setting point is reached.

5 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Crab apple jelly

Small, hard crab apples are high in pectin and make one of the best wild fruit jellies. The color of the jelly can range from pink to yellow-green, depending on the variety of crab apple. It is delicious served with scones and whipped cream or with cold ham or poultry.

  * ☑ 20 cups (4⅖ lbs) crab apples, cut into quarters
  * ☑ 5 cups water
  * ☑ Ganulated sugar

1 Put the crab apples (there's no need to peel or core them) into a large, heavy-based pan with the water. Place over a low heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 1½ hours, until the fruit is soft and pulpy.

2 Ladle the fruit and juices into a scalded jelly bag. Strain through the jelly bag overnight.

3 Measure the juice into a large, heavy-based pan and to every 2½ cups juice, add 2½ cups sugar.

4 Heat the juice and sugar, and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely. Bring to a boil and boil rapidly for about 10-20 minutes, until setting point is reached.

5 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Gooseberry mint jelly

One of the first fruits of summer, gooseberries make delicious preserves. For centuries, gooseberry jelly has been served with fatty meats such as pork, lamb, and duck, and oily fish such as mackerel, where the gooseberries' tartness counteracts the richness of the food. Use a mild mint such as apple mint, pineapple mint, or spearmint rather than the strong-tasting peppermint.

  * ☑ 10 cups (2¼ lbs) hard, green gooseberries
  * ☑ Water
  * ☑ Ganulated sugar
  * ☑ 6-8 sprigs mint, tied into a bundle
  * ☑ Juice of 2 lemons

1 Put the gooseberries into a large, heavy-based pan (there's no need to top and tail them) and just cover with water. Place over a low heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 15-20 minutes until the fruit is soft.

2 Ladle the fruit and juices into a scalded jelly bag. Strain through the jelly bag overnight.

3 Measure the juice into a large, heavy-based pan and to every 2½ cups juice, add 2⅓ cups sugar.

4 Heat the juice, sugar, mint, and lemon juice, and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely. Bring to a boil and boil rapidly for about 10-20 minutes, until setting point is reached. Remove the mint.

5 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Herb jelly

You can use a single herb or a mixture of herbs for this savory jelly. Sage is delicious with pork, parsley with ham, thyme with poultry, and rosemary or mint with lamb. Mixed-herb jelly is delicious served with fish or with soft cheeses, such as goat's cheese.

  * ☑ 8⅓ cups (3⅓ lbs) cooking apples, coarsely chopped
  * ☑ 3⅘ cups water
  * ☑ 6-8 sprigs fresh herbs, tied into a bundle,
  * ☑ ⅔ cup white malt or white wine vinegar
  * ☑ Granulated sugar
  * ☑ 5 Tbsp chopped fresh herbs

1 Put the apples into a large, heavy-based pan with the water and herb bundle. Place over a low heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about one hour, until the fruit is soft, stirring from time to time.

2 Add the vinegar and cook for another 5 minutes. Mash the fruit to a pulp.

3 Ladle the fruit and juices into a scalded jelly bag. Strain through the jelly bag overnight.

4 Measure the juice into a large, heavy-based pan and to every 2½ cups juice, add 2⅓ cups sugar.

5 Heat the juice and sugar, and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely. Bring to a boil and boil rapidly for about 10 minutes, until setting point is reached.

6 Remove the pan from the heat. Add the chopped herbs and leave to stand for 5-10 minutes, until a skin has formed on the surface. Stir once, pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Medlar jelly

A member of the rose family, medlars are brown, pear-shaped fruits with hard, rough skins and have a lightly spicy, rather tart flavor. After picking, the fruit must be allowed to "blett"—that is, become soft and brown inside before they can be eaten raw.The jelly can be made with ripe or slightly unripe fruit, and is excellent with meat or with scones and whipped cream.

  * ☑ 9 cups (4⅖ lbs) medlars, chopped
  * ☑ 1 large lemon
  * ☑ 7⅖ cups water
  * ☑ Ganulated sugar
  * ☑ Lemon juice, if needed

1 Put the medlars (there's no need to peel them or remove the seeds) into a large, heavy-based pan and just cover with water. Place over a low heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 20-30 minutes, until the fruit is reduced to a brown pulp.

2 Ladle the fruit and juices into a scalded jelly bag. Strain through the jelly bag overnight.

3 Measure the juice into a large, heavy-based pan and to every 2½ cups juice, add 2⅓ cups sugar. If using very ripe fruit, add 2 tablespoons lemon juice to the pan.

4 Heat the juice, sugar, and lemon juice (if using), and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely. Bring to a boil and boil rapidly for about 20-25 minutes, until setting point is reached.

5 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Parsley honey

Parsley has a fresh "green" vibrant flavor. This is an old country recipe used when honey was in short supply or was difficult to obtain. Parsley honey was a popular substitute for the real thing and looks and tastes like heather honey and can be used wherever you would use honey. It's a delicious spread on scones or toast.

  * ☑ 150 g (5½ oz) fresh parley
  * ☑ 3⅗ cups water
  * ☑ 2⅓ cups granulated sugar
  * ☑ ⅓ tsp white malt or white wine vinegar, or juice of 1 small lemon

1 Wash the parsley well and dry thoroughly. Chop it roughly, including the stalks, and put into a large, heavy-based pan with the water. Place over a low heat and slowly bring to a boil. Boil steadily for about 30 minutes, until the liquid is reduced to 2½ cups.

2 Strain the mixture into a clean pan and add the sugar. Heat gently until the sugar has dissolved completely, then bring to a boil. Cook steadily for about 20 minutes, until clear and syrupy, like thin honey. Stir in the vinegar or lemon juice.

3 Remove from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label. The mixture will set overnight.

# Quince jelly

Wonderfully perfumed quinces are hard and inedible when raw but delectable when cooked, when the flesh becomes deep pink. As this jelly cooks, it will fill the house with a wonderful aroma. Add a spoonful of quince jelly to apple pies or crumbles before cooking, or serve with roast meats. If using very ripe fruit, use the smaller amount of water and the maximum if the fruit is hard.

  * ☑ 5¾ cups (2½ lbs) quinces
  * ☑ 3⅘-6⅓ cups water
  * ☑ Granulated sugar

1 Wash the quinces and scrub away the grayish down (there's no need to peel or core them). Cut them roughly into pieces and put them into a large, heavy-based pan with the water. Place over a low heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 40-50 minutes, until the fruit is reduced to a pulp.

2 Ladle the fruit and juices into a scalded jelly bag. Strain through the jelly bag overnight.

3 Measure the juice into a large, heavy-based pan and to every 2½ cups juice, add 2⅓ cups sugar.

4 Heat the juice and sugar and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely. Bring to a boil and boil rapidly for about 15 minutes, until setting point is reached.

5 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Redcurrant and rosemary jelly

Scarlet translucent redcurrant jelly is delicious with game meat and roast lamb. Rosemary is added to the traditional recipe to give a lovely aromatic flavor to the sweet jelly. Add a spoonful to gravy for lamb or game meat for extra flavor.

  * ☑ 15 cups (3 lb 5 oz) redcurrants
  * ☑ 2½ cups water
  * ☑ Granulated sugar
  * ☑ 4-5 Tbsp rosemary leaves, chopped

1 Put the redcurrants (there's no need to remove the stalks) into a large, heavy-based pan with the water. Place over a low heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 20-30 minutes, until the fruit is very soft.

2 Ladle the fruit and juices into a scalded jelly bag. Strain through the jelly bag overnight.

3 Measure the juice into a large, heavy-based pan and to every 2½ cups juice, add 2⅓ sugar. Heat the juice and sugar and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely.

4 Add the rosemary, bring to a boil, and boil rapidly for about 10-20 minutes, until setting point is reached.

5 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Rowan jelly

Rowanberries are the fruit of the Mountain Ash tree.The orange red berries make a tangy jelly with a hint of bitterness, which is traditionally served as an accompaniment to game meat, particularly venison. It is also delicious with other meats.

  * ☑ 10 cups (2½ lbs) rowanberries
  * ☑ 1¼ cups water
  * ☑ Granulated sugar

1 Put the rowanberries (there's no need to peel and core them) into a large, heavy-based pan with the water. Place over a low heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 30-40 minutes, until the fruit is very soft.

2 Ladle the fruit and juices into a scalded jelly bag. Strain through the jelly bag overnight.

3 Measure the juice into a large, heavy-based pan and to every 2½ cups juice, add 2⅓ cups sugar.

4 Heat the juice and sugar, and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely. Bring to a boil and boil rapidly for about 10-15 minutes, until setting point is reached.

5 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Seville orange marmalade

Bitter or Seville oranges are highly scented with gloriously fragrant aromatic peel and astringent juice. The fruit inspired the creation of Curaçao liquor and orange marmalade. Sweet orange juice and peel would be too insipid and lack the depth of flavor needed for this superb marmalade.

  * ☑ 6⅔ cups (3⅓ lb) Seville oranges, scrubbed
  * ☑ Juice of 2 lemons
  * ☑ 14⅓ cups water
  * ☑ 15⅔ cups granulated sugar, warmed in a very low-heated oven

1 Cut the oranges in half and squeeze out the juice and seeds. Scoop out the flesh. Cut away any thick white pith from the peel and finely shred the peel with a sharp knife.

2 Put the shredded peel, orange and lemon juices, muslin bag, and water into a large, heavy-based pan. Place over a low heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 1½-2 hours, until the peel is tender.

3 Stir in the warmed sugar until completely dissolved and then bring to a boil. Boil rapidly for about 15 minutes, until setting point is reached.

4 Remove the pan from the heat. Skim off any scum from the surface and leave to stand for 10-20 minutes. Stir once, pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Grapefruit and lemon marmalade

Made from two tart, refreshing citrus fruits, this marmalade has a wonderful fruity flavor.The citrus zing and sharp fragrance of tangy grapefruit and lemons make a peppy preserve. Citrus fruits may be waxed to protect them from bruising during shipping and as the peel is used, it is best to use organically grown lemons and limes, which are unwaxed. Wash the fruit, scrubbing the skin to remove any dirt or bacteria on the surface, and dry well.

  * ☑ 4⅖ (2½ lbs) grapefruit, scrubbed
  * ☑ 2 cups (1 lb) lemons, scrubbed
  * ☑ 7⅕ cups water
  * ☑ 7⅘ cups granulated sugar, warmed in a very low-heated oven

1 Place the fruit in boiling water for 3 minutes (this makes the fruit easier to peel). Remove from the water and peel with a potato peeler. Cut the peel into fine shreds and put into a large, heavy-based pan.

2 Remove the pith from the fruit and chop the flesh roughly. Add the flesh to the pan together with any juice from the fruit.

3 Place the pith and seeds in a muslin bag and add to the pan with the water. Place over a low heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 1½-2 hours, until the peel is tender. Remove the pan from the heat and squeeze the muslin bag into the mixture before discarding it.

4 Stir in the warmed sugar until completely dissolved and then bring to a boil. Boil rapidly for about 10-15 minutes, until setting point is reached.

5 Remove the pan from the heat. Skim off any scum from the surface and leave to stand for 10-20 minutes. Stir once, pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Lime marmalade

Limes make a very tasty marmalade.They have less juice than lemons so lemon juice is added to the recipe. Choose limes that are firm and heavy for their size, with deep green, shiny skin when their sharp, tart flavor is at its best.

  * ☑ 3 cups (1⅖ lbs) limes, scrubbed
  * ☑ 7⅕ cups water
  * ☑ 1½ Tbsp lemon juice
  * ☑ 7⅘ cups granulated sugar, warmed in a very low-heated oven

1 Place the limes in boiling water for 3 minutes (this makes the fruit easier to peel). Remove the rind from the limes with a potato peeler and cut into fine shreds.

2 Remove the pith and chop the flesh. Place the pith and seeds in a muslin bag and add to the pan with the water. Place over a low heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 1-1½ hours, until the peel is tender. Remove the pan from the heat and squeeze the muslin bag into the mixture before discarding it.

3 Stir in the warm sugar and lemon juice and cook over a low heat, stirring all the time until completely dissolved. Bring to a boil and boil rapidly for about 10-15 minutes, until setting point is reached.

4 Remove the pan from the heat. Skim off any foam from the surface and leave to stand for 10 minutes Stir once, pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Fruit butters and curds

Fruit butters and curds are traditional preserves that were made originally to use up an oversupply of fruit and were intended to be eaten fairly quickly, as they don't keep as well as jams. Delicious spread on bread and butter, they also make excellent fillings for tarts and cakes.

# Equipment

A heavy-based or double saucepan or heatproof bowl.

A fine sieve to remove any lumps.

Sterilized glass jars (see page 15) and metal or plastic covers or lids. Fruit butters are not covered with waxed discs but with airtight metal or plastic lids only.

# Ingredients

Almost any fruit is suitable. Homemade lemon curd made from fresh lemons has a much better flavor than commercial brands. Lemons have a refreshingly sharp citrus flavor. Choose thin-skinned fruits (those with thicker peel will have less flesh and therefore be less juicy) that are heavy for their size and bright yellow. Avoid any that are tinged with green as they're not fully ripe and will be very acidic. Use unwaxed citrus fruits if possible; otherwise the fruit must be well-scrubbed under hot running water to remove the protective waxy coating of fungicide. Use a potato peeler to remove the rind in thin strips and don't include the white pith as this is very bitter.

Limes are oval or round in shape with green flesh and skin and are more fragrant than lemons. Choose limes that are firm and heavy for their size, with deep green, shiny skin. Use unwaxed fruits if possible.

"Some fruit butters and curds are made with low amounts of sugar and so won't keep for long"

Some fruit butters and curds are made with low amounts of sugar and so will not keep for very long. Use fresh eggs, but not newly laid: about two days old is ideal. This is because very fresh eggs have a high moisture content, which will prevent the mixture from thickening. Eggs with darkcolored yolks are best for lemon curd. Use unsalted butter; otherwise the curd will be slightly salty.

# Cooking

The ingredients are cooked together until the mixture becomes stiff, thick, and smooth. Mixtures containing egg yolks are cooked in a double saucepan or heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering (but not boiling) water to prevent the egg from overcooking and the mixture from curdling and separating. The water must not touch the base of the bowl as too much heat will be transferred and it will cause the mixture to boil, spoiling the curd. When cool, the curd becomes thick enough to spread.

Check that the sugar has dissolved completely. The mixture should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.

As a general guide, fruit curd is ready when a spoon drawn across the surface of the mixture leaves a clean line. Fruit butter is ready when no free liquid is visible and the surface is creamy.

It is difficult to estimate how much preserve a recipe will make, as this depends on how juicy the fruit is.As a general guide, 2⅓ cups sugar should make about 2⅓ cups fruit butter or curd.

Spoon the mixture into sterilized jars (see page 15) right up to the top as the mixture will shrink a little as it cools. The jars are then sealed and labelled in the same way as for jam (see page 23).The jars must be stored in the refrigerator and eaten within two to three weeks. Once opened, the curds or butters should be eaten with a few days.

# What can go wrong?

Curdling (separating) occurs in preserves made with eggs if the mixture becomes too hot. The mixture should be cooked very slowly, stirring continuously in a double saucepan or bowl over a pan of simmering water so that the mixture doesn't come into contact with direct heat. If the mixture curdles, remove from the heat immediately and whisk vigorously to amalgamate the mixture again. Continue to whisk until thick.

Mold occurs if the preserve is kept in a warm or damp place. Fruit butters and curds should be kept in the refrigerator and eaten within three weeks. Inspect regularly for signs of mold.

# Apple butter

Cooking apples have a sharp, tart flavor and retain their shape well during cooking. Apple butter is lightly spiced and is a delicious spread on scones, bread or toast, and also as a filling for sponge cakes. Using cider instead of water produces a more pronounced apple flavor.

  * ☑ 8⅓ cups (3⅓ lbs) cooking apples, coarsely chopped including cores and peel
  * ☑ 4⅔ cups water or cider
  * ☑ Pinch ground cloves
  * ☑ ⅓ tsp ground cinnamon
  * ☑ 1⅘ cups sugar for each 2½ cups fruit pulp

1 Put the apples (including cores and peel) into a large, heavy-based pan and cover with the water or cider. Bring to a boil and simmer gently for about 30 minutes, until very soft.

2 Remove the pan from the heat. Push the mixture through a sieve into a bowl. Weigh the pulp and return it to the pan with the spices.

3 Add the required amount of sugar to the pulp and heat gently, stirring until the sugar has dissolved completely. Bring to a boil and boil steadily until very thick and creamy, stirring frequently.

4 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, cover with waxed discs, and leave until cold before sealing tightly with lids.

# Blackberry butter

Wild blackberries are at their best when plump, ripe, and full of inky juice. Cultivated blackberries lack the deep flavor of wild berries but are nevertheless still delicious and have the advantage of having fewer seeds than the wild variety.They make a beautiful amethyst-colored spread that is delicious with scones and cream or as a filling for a plain sponge cake.

  * ☑ 8 cups (2½ lbs) blackberries
  * ☑ 5½ cups (2½ lbs) cooking apples, coarsely chopped including cores and peel
  * ☑ Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
  * ☑ 1⅘ cups sugar to every 2½ cups fruit pulp

1 Put the blackberries and apples (including cores and peel) into a large, heavy-based pan with the lemon zest and juice, and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 15 minutes, until very soft.

2 Remove the pan from the heat. Push through a sieve and weigh the pulp. Stir in the required amount of sugar and heat gently until the sugar has dissolved completely.

3 Bring to a boil and cook steadily for about 20 minutes until the mixture is thick and creamy, stirring constantly. The actual cooking time will depend on the ripeness of the fruit.

4 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars and cover with plastic or metal lids. Label and store in a cool place and use within a month.

# Plum butter

You can use any type of plum for this recipe, such as damsons or greengages. Plums come in dozens of varieties, shapes, sizes, and colors. Whether green, red, deep purple, or almost black, they are delicious eaten fresh or baked in puddings, pies, cakes, and jams. The plum is closely related to the almond, cherry, peach, and other species of the genus Prunus.

  * ☑ 8½ cups (3⅓ lbs) ripe plums
  * ☑ Water
  * ☑ 1⅘ cups sugar to every 2½ cups fruit pulp

1 Remove the pits from the plums and put into a large, heavy-based pan with just enough water to cover the fruit. Simmer gently for about 20 minutes, or until very soft.

2 Remove the pan from the heat. Push through a sieve into a bowl. Weigh the pulp and return it to the pan. Add the required amount of sugar. Heat gently, stirring until the sugar has dissolved completely.

3 Bring to a boil and cook gently for about 40-60 minutes, stirring frequently, until very thick.

4 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, cover with waxed discs, and leave until cold before sealing tightly with lids.

# Quince butter

You may be fortunate to have a quince tree in your yard, but if not, quinces can be found in ethnic food stores and some large supermarkets in the autumn. This preserve is delicious with cheese and crackers or bread and butter, or as an accompaniment to roast pork. Wash the quinces and scrub off the gray down before you start.

  * ☑ 5  cups (2½ lbs) quinces, peeled and cored weight
  * ☑ 2 cups water
  * ☑ 2⅓ cups sugar to every  
2½ cups fruit pulp
  * ☑ 3½ Tbsp lemon juice to every  
2½ cups fruit pulp
  * ☑ Pad of unsalted butter

1 Cut the quinces into small pieces and place in a large, heavy-based pan with the water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat. Simmer gently for about 20-40 minutes, or until very soft.

2 Remove the pan from the heat. Push through a sieve into a bowl. Weigh the pulp and return it to the pan. Add the required amount of sugar and lemon juice. Heat gently, stirring until the sugar has dissolved completely, then bring to a boil and cook gently for about 40 minutes, stirring frequently, until very thick.

3 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, cover with waxed discs, and cover with plastic or metal lids immediately.

# Apricot curd

Fresh, golden, juicy apricots can vary in color from pale yellow to deep orange. They make a delectable spread for fresh bread and butter, and scones. Add a few of the cracked pits to the mixture for a subtle almond flavor but remember to remove them before jarring.

  * ☑ 1 cup (½ lb) fresh ripe apricots, cut in half
  * ☑ 1⅕ cups sugar
  * ☑ Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
  * ☑ ¼ cup (3½ Tbsp) unsalted butter, diced
  * ☑ 2 eggs, beaten

1 Put the apricots into a medium pan with very little water and cook for about 15-20 minutes, until soft. Push the mixture through a nylon sieve into a heatproof bowl. Stir in the sugar, lemon zest and juice, and butter.

2 Place the bowl over a pan of simmering (but not boiling) water and cook, stirring until the sugar has dissolved.

3 Stir in the eggs and continue stirring for about 20 minutes, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Be careful not to cook for too long as the mixture will thicken more as it cools.

4 Remove the bowl and pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, cover with waxed discs, and leave until cold before sealing tightly with cellophane covers or lids.

5 Label and store in a cool place and use within a month.

# Gooseberry curd

Hard, bright green gooseberries are one of the first fruits of the year. They are sharp and sour-tasting when raw, but their acidity is transformed by cooking them with sugar. In wet weather, gooseberries exude more liquid so may need cooking for a little longer.

  * ☑ 4½ cups (1 lb) green gooseberries
  * ☑ 3 Tbsp water
  * ☑ ½ cup (7⅔ Tbsp) unsalted butter
  * ☑ 1⅕ cups sugar
  * ☑ 3 large eggs

1 Put the gooseberries into a large, heavy-based pan (there's no need to top and tail them) with the water. Bring to a boil and simmer gently for about 15 minutes, until very soft.

2 Remove the pan from the heat. Push the mixture through a sieve into a bowl and set aside.

3 Put the butter and sugar into a separate large heatproof bowl, place over a pan of simmering (but not boiling) water and stir to dissolve the sugar. When the butter has melted and the sugar has dissolved completely, stir in the gooseberry purée.

4 Beat the eggs lightly and stir into the warm mixture. Cook over the simmering water for about 20-30 minutes, stirring, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.

5 Remove the bowl and pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, cover with waxed discs, and leave until cold before sealing tightly with lids.

# Lemon curd

This tastes so much nicer than the commercial variety and has a lovely fresh lemon flavor with just a hint of sharpness. Some lemons may be waxed to protect them from bruising during shipping. As the zest is used, it is best to use organically grown lemons and limes, which are unwaxed. Alternatively, scrub the fruit very well in warm water to remove the waxy coating.

  * ☑ Finely grated zest and juice of 2 large lemons
  * ☑ 1⅕ cups sugar
  * ☑ ½ cup (7⅔ Tbsp) unsalted butter, diced
  * ☑ 2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 Put the lemon zest, juice, sugar, and butter into a heatproof bowl. Place over a pan of simmering (but not boiling) water and stir to dissolve the sugar.

2 Stir in the eggs and continue stirring for about 20 minutes, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Be careful not to cook for too long as the mixture will thicken more as it cools.

3 Remove the bowl and pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, cover with waxed discs, and leave until cold before sealing tightly with cellophane covers or lids.

4 Store in a cool place and use within a month.

# Pumpkin curd

The onset of autumn brings with it the annual appearance of a colorful array of pumpkins ranging in color from pale gold to deep, dark green. This curd makes an unusual filling for a sponge cake and is also a good spread on scones and bread.

  * ☑ 3 cups (1 lb) pumpkin, peeled and seeded weight
  * ☑ 2 large eggs
  * ☑ 2⅓ cups sugar
  * ☑ Juice of 2 large lemons

1 Cut the pumpkin flesh into pieces and put into a large sieve or metal colander over a pan of boiling water. Cover and steam for 30 minutes, then mash into a purée. Transfer to a heatproof bowl.

2 Beat the eggs lightly and stir into the warm purée with the sugar and lemon juice.

3 Cook over a pan of simmering (but not boiling) water for about 20-30 minutes, stirring, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.

4 Remove the bowl and pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, cover with waxed discs, and leave until cold before sealing tightly with lids.

# Damson cheese

Damsons are indigestible when raw, but the sharp-tasting fruit is transformed during cooking and makes wonderful preserves. Serve this preserve with sliced roast lamb or beef, or as a dessert with whipped cream.

  * ☑ 7⅖ cups (2⅚ lbs) damsons
  * ☑ ⅔—1 cup water
  * ☑ 2⅓ cups sugar for each 2½ cups fruit pulp

1 Put the whole damsons into a large, heavy-based pan with the water. Bring to a boil and simmer gently for about 30 minutes, until very soft.

2 Push the mixture through a sieve into a bowl. Weigh the pulp and return it to the pan.

3 Crack the damson pits and remove the seeds. Chop these finely and add to the pulp to give a strong almond flavor to the finished cheese. If you prefer, you can use just half the seeds or omit them altogether.

4 Add the required amount of sugar to the pulp and heat gently, stirring until the sugar has dissolved completely. Bring to a boil and cook gently stirring frequently for about one hour or until very thick.

5 Remove the bowl and pan from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, cover with waxed discs, and leave until cold before sealing tightly with lids.

# Chutney

Chutney is a piquantly sweet/sour condiment made from fruits and vegetables and may range from mildly spiced to very hot.

Chutney will transform bland foods (add a spoonful to a baked potato for instance) into a tasty meal. It keeps very well and the flavor actually improves if the chutney is left for at least two months before opening the jar.

# Equipment

Use a stainless steel or anodized aluminium pan—never brass, copper, old-fashioned aluminum, or iron—as vinegar will react with and corrode these metals and also taint the chutney.

A wide funnel is useful when filling the jars, but a small ladle can be used instead.

Mason jars are ideal for storing homemade preserves and are available in a range of sizes. A Mason jar is a glass jar which has a lid in two sections to ensure an airtight seal. Originally a glass disc sat on top of the jar and was then secured in place with a metal screw band which contains a rubber seal. Nowadays both sections of the lid are usually made from metal. The original Mason jar is sometimes mistaken for the more widely available glass jar with a rubber seal and a metal hinge, which when closed forms an airtight seal. These jars can be used instead of a Mason jar.

Lids must be vinegar-proof, i.e., lined with plastic. Plastic lids from coffee tins are perfect. Cellophane covers are not suitable as lids must also be completely airtight or the chutney will dry out as the vinegar evaporates. If you only have metal lids, line them with a disc of waxed paper first.

# Ingredients

Choose fresh-looking, firm, ripe fruits and vegetables. Fruits and vegetables are usually finely chopped or minced. Dried fruits are often included to add sweetness.

Dried fruits include currants, raisins (muscatel raisins are the finest as they are plump and full of rich, sweet flavor, although they are more expensive), and sultanas (dried white grapes, paler than currants and raisins), which all come from different types of grapes; prunes are dried plums and these glistening black fruits have a splendid flavor and moist texture; dates are the fruit of a palm tree and have a rich sweet flavor; figs flourish in hot countries and, in the past, cooked figs were used as sweeteners in place of expensive sugar and are still used for this purpose today in North Africa and the Middle East. The best are Smyrna-type figs, which have a whitish coating of crystallized natural sugars.The best dried apricots are those from the Hunza valley in Kashmir and from Afghanistan and Turkey. The wild fruits are left on the trees to dry before they are picked. Hunza apricots, it has to be said, do look uninviting; small, round, hard, and beige in color, they look like little stones, totally unlike fresh, plump, vivid orange apricots.They need to be soaked and cooked before cooking, but their flavor is unsurpassable—deep and rich with a hint of toffee.

Some fruits, such as prunes and apricots, need soaking before use, although no-soak varieties are now widely available.You can use either in the recipes, but if using fruits that require soaking, you can make these even more delicious by soaking in orange juice, apple juice, wine, or tea, instead of water.

Newcomers to the dried-fruit market are cranberries, blueberries, and a variety of exotic fruits such as papaya and mango. These don't need to be soaked before use and are used in the same way as currants, raisins, etc.

Vinegar is a key ingredient as it acts as a preservative and also contributes to the flavor. It is important to use good-quality vinegar with an acetic acid content of at least 5 percent; never use anything labeled "non-brewed condiment." The type of vinegar you use will give a different flavor to the chutney or pickle. Color is not an indication of strength—malt vinegar, whether white, distilled, or brown, is the least expensive and strongest-tasting. Brown malt vinegar is used for making rich, dark chutneys, while white malt vinegar is better for lighter-colored chutneys so that the pale color is not spoiled. Cider vinegar is golden-colored with a delicate flavor best suited to fruit chutneys.Wine vinegar can be either red or white, and red has the stronger flavor. It is not as harsh as malt vinegar and also requires less time to soften the chutney after jarring.

Sugar may be white or brown and the latter will give a darker color and stronger flavor. Black treacle is sometimes included to give extra flavor.

Spices are an important ingredient and are included to give the chutney the necessary savory, spicy flavor and should be as fresh as possible. Using old, stale spices that have been in the cupboard for a long time won't flavor the chutney at all, so make sure they are freshly bought. Spices can be whole or ground. Whole spices give a better flavor, as the volatile oils are preserved during storage.These should be bruised (beaten lightly with a rolling pin or other heavy object) to release their flavor, then tied in a piece of muslin so they can be removed easily before jarring.

# Popular spices for chutney and pickles

Allspice is not a blend of spices as many people wrongly think but is a spice in its own right. It has a highly aromatic flavor often described as a combination of cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and pepper. Allspice is available as whole, dried berries or ready-ground.

Cardamom is the dried, unopened fruit of a plant native to south India. It has a warm, spicy, sweet, slightly lemony flavor and is sold whole in pods, as small, blackish brown seeds, and ready ground.The pods and seeds should be lightly crushed before using to release the flavor.

Cayenne pepper is a red, fiery-hot spice ground from the pod and seeds of dried chilies and should be used sparingly. Just a pinch is all that's usually required.

Cinnamon has a warm, sweet fragrance and is sold as sticks or quills and as a powder. You can try to grind your own cinnamon from the bark, but it's difficult to get it fine enough. It's best to buy ground cinnamon in small quantities because the freshness and flavor quickly disappear.

Cloves are the dried flower buds of a tree in Indonesia. Cloves have a pungent, spicy flavor and should be used sparingly.

Coriander has a warm, aromatic, slightly nutty flavor with a hint of orange and is sold whole as seeds and ready-ground.

Cumin is sold as whole seeds or ready ground and imparts a warm, slightly sweet spiciness to chutneys.

Ginger can be used as the fresh root, crystallized or candied in syrup, or dried and ground. It adds a touch of heat and has a warm, fragrant aroma and flavor.

Juniper berries have a bittersweet, slightly resinous flavor and should be lightly crushed or bruised before using to release the volatile flavoring oils.

Mace is the outer lacy covering of the nutmeg. It is sold either in blades or ground and adds a mild nutmeg flavor.

Mixed spice is a commercial blend of sweet spices, including cinnamon and coriander seed. It adds a warm, spicy note.

Mustard seed has a fresh, clean aroma and pungent, sharp flavor.

Nutmeg has a warm, spicy flavor. Buy whole nutmeg and grate it as you need it. Avoid using ready-ground nutmeg, which quickly loses its flavor.

Turmeric is the root or rhizome of a member of the ginger family and adds a pungent flavor and deep orange-yellow color. It is sold ready ground.

# Cooking

It's a good idea to open the kitchen windows and close the kitchen door, or the pungent smell of boiling vinegar will permeate throughout the house.

Chutney is cooked slowly for a long time to give a good, rich flavor and dark color. The mixture is stirred with a wooden spoon from time to time to prevent it from sticking to the pan and burning.After cooking for about an hour, the chutney will need constant stirring. It should have a spoonable consistency, but it will also thicken a little more as it cools. Depending on the recipe, the mixture will need cooking for one to three hours, but be careful not to cook it for too long or the sugar will caramelize.

The texture may be chunky or smooth, depending on the recipe. Chutneys do not set with pectin; it is the evaporation of the vinegar that results in the correct texture, as chutneys will set firmer when cold. To test when the chutney is cooked, make a channel across the surface with a wooden spoon: if the impression lasts for a few seconds and does not fill up with vinegar, it is ready. Taste the chutney but remember that chutney needs time in the jar to mellow to allow the acidity to soften and the flavors to develop.

The hot chutney is poured into warmed sterilized jars right up to the brim and covered while still hot. Chutney will taste better if left to mature for at least three months before eating and will keep in a cool, dry, dark place for two to three years. Once opened, store in the refrigerator.

# What can go wrong?

Raw flavor is caused by not cooking the mixture sufficiently. The longer chutney is cooked, the richer and mellower the flavor will be.

# Apple, apricot, and cardamom chutney

This combination of flavor is particularly delicious with pork, ham, or sausages. Cardamom seeds are very fragrant and impart a highly aromatic, warm citrus-like flavor with subtle floral tones. Light muscovado sugar adds a rich taste with a hint of molasses.

  * ☑ 3 cups onions, peeled and finely chopped
  * ☑ 1¼ cups white malt vinegar
  * ☑ 5½ cups (2½ lbs) cooking apples, peeled and cored weight
  * ☑ 2 tsp cardamom seeds, crushed
  * ☑ 1¾ cups light muscovado sugar
  * ☑ ¾ cup ready-to-eat dried apricots, roughly chopped
  * ☑ Salt and pepper

1 Put the onions and half the vinegar into a large, heavy-based pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

2 Cut the apples into small pieces and add to the pan with the remaining vinegar, cardamom seeds, sugar, dried apricots, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper.

3 Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely, then increase the heat and simmer steadily, for about 40-60 minutes, stirring occasionally until the mixture is very thick.

4 Remove the pan from the heat. Spoon into hot sterilized jars, seal, and label.

5 Leave to mature for up to 3 months in a cool, dry, dark place.

# Apricot and onion chutney

Dried apricots have a more pronounced flavor than fresh ones, but either can be used.This is a mild-tasting chutney that goes well with all kinds of meat and poultry and pies, as well as cheese.

  * ☑ 1¼ cups dried apricots
  * ☑ 1 large onion, peeled
  * ☑ 2½ cups (1 lb) cooking apples, peeled and cored weight
  * ☑ ¾ tsp salt
  * ☑ ¾ cup sultanas
  * ☑ 2½ cups vinegar
  * ☑ 2¼ cups light muscovado sugar

1 Put all the ingredients, except the sugar, into a large, heavy-based pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 45 minutes, until the mixture is thick and pulpy. Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar until completely dissolved.

2 Return to a low heat and stir well, then increase the heat and simmer steadily for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally until the mixture is very thick.

3 Remove the pan from the heat. Spoon into hot sterilized jars, seal, and label.

# Autumn chutney

This recipe is an ideal way to use up an oversupply of autumn fruits.You can vary the proportions of fruit, according to what you have available, as long as the total weight of fruit remains the same. For example, you could use blackberries instead of the apricots, or use half the amount of pears and use plums to make up the weight.

  * ☑ 3 cups onions, peeled and finely chopped
  * ☑ 1¼ cups white malt vinegar
  * ☑ 2½ cups (1 lb) cooking apples, peeled and cored weight
  * ☑ 2 cups (1 lb) pears, peeled and cored weight
  * ☑ ¾ cup dried apricots, chopped
  * ☑ 1¾ light muscovado sugar
  * ☑ Salt and pepper

1 Put the onions and half the vinegar into a large, heavy-based pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

2 Cut the apples and pears into small pieces, and add to the pan with the remaining vinegar, apricots, sugar, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper.

3 Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely, then increase the heat and simmer steadily, for about 40-60 minutes, stirring occasionally until the mixture is very thick.

4 Remove the pan from the heat. Spoon into hot sterilized jars, seal, and label.

5 Leave to mature for at least 3 months in a cool, dry, dark place.

# Beetroot chutney

Beetroot has a wonderful color, and when combined with onions and apples, makes a tasty chutney that's ideal with cheese and cold meats. It is also good with poultry.

  * ☑ 6⅔ cups (2½ lbs) raw, peeled beetroot, grated or shredded
  * ☑ 3 cups onions, peeled and chopped
  * ☑ 3¾ cups (1½ lbs) apples peeled and chopped
  * ☑ 3 cups seedless raisins
  * ☑ 4⅔ cups malt vinegar
  * ☑ 1 tsp mixed pickling spices
  * ☑ 5 cups white or brown sugar

1 Put all the ingredients in a large, heavy-based pan and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about one hour, until soft and pulpy.

2 Remove the pan from the heat. Spoon into hot sterilized jars, seal, and label.

# Elderberry chutney

A tasty chutney with a fruity flavor. Glossy, black elderberries are the fruit of the elder tree and can be found growing wild in the autumn.They must never be eaten raw as the uncooked berries can cause nausea and/or vomiting. The easiest way to remove the berries from the stalks is to strip them using the prongs of a fork.

  * ☑ 4½ cups (1 lb) elderberries, washed and stalks removed
  * ☑ 2½ cups (1 lb) cooking apples, peeled cored, and chopped
  * ☑ ¾ cup dried fruit, such as a mix of currants, sultanas, raisins
  * ☑ 3 cups onions, peeled and finely chopped
  * ☑ ¾ tsp sat
  * ☑ ⅓ tsp ground ginger
  * ☑ ⅓ tsp ground mixed spice
  * ☑ Pinch ground black pepper
  * ☑ 1¼ cups malt vinegar
  * ☑ 1¾ cups white or brown sugar

1 Put the elderberries, apples, dried fruit, and onions into a large, heavy-based pan with the salt, spices, pepper, and one third of the vinegar. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer very gently for about one hour, until the fruit is soft, stirring from time to time to prevent the mixture from sticking and burning.

2 Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar and remaining vinegar. When the sugar has dissolved completely, return to the heat and bring to a boil. Boil steadily for about 30-40 minutes, until thick.

3 Remove the pan from the heat. Spoon into hot sterilized jars, seal, and label.

# Gooseberry chutney

A well-flavored fruity, spicy chutney that's delicious with rich oily fish, particularly mackerel and smoked salmon. It is also a tasty accompaniment to roast meats and poultry. Cayenne pepper adds a hot spiciness and you can use more or less, as you prefer.

  * ☑ 15 cups (3⅓ lbs) green gooseberries, topped and tailed
  * ☑ 3 cups onions, peeled and finely chopped
  * ☑ 1½ cups seedless raisins
  * ☑ 1 Tbsp salt
  * ☑ ¾ tsp ground ginger
  * ☑ ½ tsp cayenne pepper
  * ☑ 1¾ cups soft brown sugar
  * ☑ 2½ cups white vinegar

1 Put all the ingredients in a large, heavy-based pan over a low heat and slowly bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved completely.

2 Reduce the heat and simmer gently, for about 1-2 hours, stirring frequently until thick.

3 Remove the pan from the heat. Spoon into hot sterilized jars, seal, and label.

# Green tomato chutney

Green tomatoes have a firm texture and a sharp flavor with just a hint of tomato. A recipe that was popular with the Victorians, who regarded this as an ideal accompaniment to cheeses and cold meats.

  * ☑ 7½ cups (3⅓ lbs) green tomatoes, sliced
  * ☑ 2½ cup (1 lb) cooking apples, peeled, cored, and chopped
  * ☑ 2⅘ cups shallots or onions, peeled and finely chopped
  * ☑ 2 cloves garlic, peeled (optional)
  * ☑ 1½ cups raisins
  * ☑ ¾ tsp salt
  * ☑ ⅓ tsp cayenne pepper
  * ☑ 1 Tbsp fresh root ginger bruised
  * ☑ 2½ cups vinegar
  * ☑ 2¼ cups soft brown sugar

1 Put the tomatoes, apples, shallots, garlic, and raisins in a large, heavy-based pan with the salt and cayenne pepper. Tie the ginger loosely in a piece of muslin and add to the pan.

2 Stir in one third of the vinegar and cook gently over a low heat for about one hour, until the vegetables and fruit are soft, stirring from time to time.

3 Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar and remaining vinegar. When the sugar has dissolved completely, return to the heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 1-1½ hours, until thick.

4 Remove the pan from the heat. Spoon into hot sterilized jars, seal, and label.

# Ripe tomato chutney

There are lots of varieties of tomatoes and any can be used to make this red chutney, which has a different flavor from chutney made with green tomatoes and looks and tastes very appetizing. To ripen home-grown tomatoes, place them in a paper bag with a ripe tomato and keep at room temperature.

  * ☑ 5 cups (2½ lbs) firm ripe tomatoes, skinned and chopped
  * ☑ 3 cups onions, peeled and finely chopped
  * ☑ 2½ cups cooking apples, peeled and cored weight, finely chopped
  * ☑ 2 cups vinegar
  * ☑ ¾ tsp ground ginger
  * ☑ ¾ tsp ground mixed spice
  * ☑ 1¾ cups white or brown sugar
  * ☑ 2 cups sultanas
  * ☑ Salt and pepper

1 Put all the ingredients except the sugar, sultanas, salt, and pepper into a large, heavy-based pan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer steadily for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally until thick.

2 Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar until dissolved completely.Add the sultanas and season to taste. Stir well, over a low heat, then increase the heat and simmer steadily, for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally until the mixture is very thick.

3 Remove the pan from the heat. Spoon into hot sterilized jars, seal, and label.

# Pear and orange chutney

There are over 5,000 varieties of pears and any can be used in this recipe, although slightly underripe pears are best for cooking. Oranges add a refreshing, sweet tartness to this chutney. It is particulary good with duck and other rich-tasting meats.

  * ☑ 6⅔ cups (3⅓ lbs) hard pears, peeled and cored weight, roughly chopped
  * ☑ 1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped
  * ☑ 1½ cups seedless raisins
  * ☑ 1¾ cups light muscovado sugar
  * ☑ Finely grated zest and juice of 2 oranges
  * ☑ ¾ tsp ground ginger
  * ☑ Pinch of ground cloves

1 Put all the ingredients into a large, heavy-based pan.

2 Stir well over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely. Bring to a boil then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 1-2 hours, stirring occasionally, until thick.

3 Remove the pan from the heat. Spoon into hot sterilized jars, seal, and label.

# Rhubarb chutney

Young succulent stems of rhubarb have a refreshingly tart flavor.This tasty chutney is excellent with fatty meats such as pork or duck when its sharp, fresh taste will cut through the richness of the meat.

  * ☑ ⅔ cup water
  * ☑ ⅔ vinegar
  * ☑ 5 cups white or brown sugar
  * ☑ ¾ tsp ground allspice
  * ☑ ¾ tsp ground ginger
  * ☑ ⅓ tsp ground cloves
  * ☑ 15 cups (3⅓ lbs) rhubarb, cut into 1 inch pieces
  * ☑ 3 cups sultanas or raisins

1 Put the water, vinegar, sugar, and spices into a large, heavy-based pan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 20 minutes.

2 Add the rhubarb and sultanas or raisins to the vinegar syrup and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 1-2 hours, until thick.

3 Remove the pan from the heat. Spoon into hot sterilized jars, seal, and label.

# Pickles

Piquant pickles add a kick to all sorts of food—cheeses, cold meats, poultry, meat pies, etc. A spoonful of pickle or a few crisp pickled onions are quick and tasty ways to spice up a plain meal or sandwich.

# Equipment

Use a stainless steel or anodized aluminum pan—never brass, copper, old-fashioned aluminum, or iron—as vinegar will react with and corrode these metals. Modern aluminum pans are anodized—a process which seals the metal—so are fine to use for pickles and chutneys.

Nylon sieves are best, as metal could adversely affect the color and flavor of the finished pickles.

Mason jars are ideal for storing homemade preserves and are available in a range of sizes. A Mason jar is a glass jar which has a lid in two sections to ensure an airtight seal. Originally a glass disc sat on top of the jar and was then secured in place with a metal screw band which contains a rubber seal. Nowadays both sections of the lid are usually made from metal. The original Mason jar is sometimes mistaken for the more widely available glass jar with a rubber seal and a metal hinge, which when closed forms an airtight seal. These jars can be used instead of a Mason jar.

Lids must be vinegar-proof, i.e., lined with plastic. Plastic lids from coffee tins are perfect. If metal comes into contact with the vinegar the lids will rust. Lids must also be airtight or the pickles will dry out. If you only have metal lids, line them with a disc of waxed paper first. Cellophane covers are not suitable as they are too flimsy.

# Ingredients

Vinegar is a key ingredient as it acts as a preservative and also contributes to the flavor. It is important to use a good-quality vinegar with an acetic acid content of at least 5 percent; never use anything labeled "non-brewed condiment." There are many types of vinegar; it can be made from grapes, grains, or fruits, and each has its own subtly different flavors ranging from mild to strong. The type of vinegar you use will give a different flavor to the pickles. Color is not an indication of strength—malt vinegar whether white, distilled, or brown is the least expensive and strongest tasting. Brown malt vinegar is used for making dark pickles while white malt vinegar is better for lighter-colored and clear pickles, so that the pale color is not spoiled. Cider vinegar, golden-colored with a delicate flavor, or wine vinegar can also be used, although these are more expensive. White wine vinegar, cider vinegar, or white malt vinegar is the best to use for pickled fruits, so that the color is not impaired.

A commercially made spiced "pickling vinegar" is also available, which gives a spicy flavor to the finished pickles.

Pickling salt or sea salt is the best to use for brining rather than table salt as the latter has additives, which tend to make the brine cloudy.

Spices are essential to add an interesting and subtle flavor to the pickles. Pickling spice mixes are available and the blends differ greatly according to the manufacturer. The spices usually include allspice, bay leaves, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, ginger, mustard seeds, and peppercorns and are usually whole or in large pieces. Whole spices give a better flavor, as the volatile oils are preserved during storage. Use spices sparingly as they can be overpowering.

Sugar, white or brown, according to preference, is added to the vinegar and spices to make sweet pickles. These have a sharp but not sour flavor and are excellent with cold meats and poultry.

Fruits and vegetables such as plums, blackberries, onions, and beetroot can be pickled. Spices can be added to vary the flavor. Herb sprigs or leaves also add flavor. Bay leaves have a strong aromatic flavor and exude a wonderful aroma when crushed.

# Popular vegetables for pickling

Cucumbers for pickling should be young and measure between 2-4 inches, which makes them easier to fit in the jar. Prick them once or twice to allow the flavors to penetrate better.

Mushrooms should be firm and fresh-looking with no sign of sweating and the stalk end should be moist, not dry. Small mushrooms, such as button mushrooms, are the best to use. Wild mushrooms are excellent but unless you know what you are doing, don't be tempted to pick wild mushrooms; some deadly poisonous mushrooms look remarkably similar to edible varieties! Wild mushrooms are becoming more easily available from specialty shops and local markets and their flavor is far superior to that of cultivated varieties, with each variety having its own very unique flavor.

Onions are probably the most popular vegetable for pickling. The two most commonly used are shallots and pickling, or baby, onions, which will fit easily into jars. Choose firm onions with unbroken skins; shallots should not have too much evident growth shoot as this indicates that they are past their best.

Red cabbage is a favorite for pickling and should have a tight, compact head that feels heavy for its size. It should look crisp and fresh, with few loose leaves. Discard any outer limp leaves. Remove the core and discard. Shred the cabbage just before you plan to use it to preserve the vitamin C.

# Preparation and cooking

Some vegetables need blanching before pickling, others need no cooking, and some are cooked in the vinegar as part of the pickling process.The vegetables are immersed in a wet or dry brine for a specified time, then drained and rinsed thoroughly under cold running water. The purpose of this is to extract some of the moisture from the vegetables (which otherwise would dilute the vinegar and reduce its preserving quality) and keep them firm and crisp and will also add to the clarity of the pickles. Each vegetable is treated differently according to type so follow the instructions in individual recipes.

After rinsing, the vegetables are packed into jars so they don't become squashed or bruised, and then the jars are filled with spiced vinegar almost to the top. Leave a half-inch space between the vinegar and the top of the jar. Cold vinegar produces crisp, sharp pickles; alternatively the vinegar can also be heated before pouring into the jars and produces softer pickles.

Sweet pickles are made by simmering the fruits or vegetables with vinegar, sugar, and spices.After jarring, the vinegar syrup is boiled down until reduced, then poured over the fruits into the jars. Shake the jars occasionally during storage to distribute the fruit and syrup evenly. Be careful not to overcook the fruit in sweet pickles as it should retain a firm texture.

Pickles must be stored in a cool, dark, dry place to prevent discoloration. They are best left for at least one month before using. Once opened, store in the refrigerator.

# What can go wrong?

Soft fruits or vegetables, which have lost their crisp texture, are due to being stored for too long. Pickles will retain their crisp texture for up to a year if stored correctly.

# Cucumber pickle

This sweet pickle is also known as the "bread and butter" pickle as it is delicious eaten with thickly sliced bread and butter. It is also good with cold meats and cheese.

  * ☑ 3 large cucumbers, thinly sliced
  * ☑ 2 large onions, peeled and thinly sliced
  * ☑ 3⅓ Tbsp salt
  * ☑ 2½ cups cider or white distilled vinegar
  * ☑ 2⅓ cups granulated sugar
  * ☑ ⅓ tsp ground turmeric
  * ☑ ¾ tsp celery seed
  * ☑ ¾ tsp mustard seed

1 Arrange the cucumber and onion slices in alternate layers in a large bowl, sprinkling salt between each layer. Cover with a weighted plate and leave to stand for at least 3 hours. Drain off the salty liquid and rinse and dry the vegetables well.

2 Put the cider or vinegar, sugar, and spices into a large, heavy-based pan, and stir over a low heat, until the sugar has dissolved completely.

3 Add the cucumber and onion and bring to a boil.

4 Boil for one minute, then remove from the heat. Remove the vegetables and mustard seeds with a slotted spoon and pack into jars.

5 Boil the vinegar syrup for about 10 minutes until reduced, then remove from the heat and pour over the vegetables to completely cover them.

6 Cover, seal, and label when cold.

# Mixed pickles

A soft, piquant pickle that goes well with cold meat and cheese. You can use zucchini instead of yellow squashes if you wish. The turmeric adds a warm, mildly spicy flavor and yellow color.

  * ☑ 1 medium cucumber
  * ☑ 2¼ cups (1 lb) tomatoes, cut in half and seeds removed
  * ☑ 4½ cups (l½ lbs) yellow squash, peeled and seeds removed
  * ☑ 4⅔ cups white vinegar
  * ☑ 1¾ cups demerara sugar
  * ☑ 1⅔ Tbsp salt
  * ☑ 1¾ ground turmeric
  * ☑ ¾ ground mixed spice
  * ☑ ¼ ground mace

1 Mince or finely chop all the vegetables. A food processor makes short work of this. Put all the ingredients into a large, heavy-based pan, stir well, and bring to a boil.

2 Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 2-3 hours until thick and a dark color.

3 Remove from the heat. Pour into warmed sterilized jars, then cover, seal, and label.

# Pickled mushrooms

Use small white mushrooms for this recipe. If you wish, you can use white wine vinegar instead of white malt vinegar. Mace enhances the flavor of the mushrooms. Leave these pickles for a few days before eating to allow the flavor to develop.

  * ☑ 7⅗ cups button mushrooms, stalks removed
  * ☑ 2½ cups white malt vinegar
  * ☑ Whole cloves
  * ☑ 10 peppercorns
  * ☑ 2 blades of mace
  * ☑ 1 Tbsp salt

1 Put the mushrooms into a small pan and just cover with water. Add a pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Boil for 10 minutes, then remove from the heat and drain very well.

2 Put the vinegar, spices, and salt into a medium, heavy-based pan and bring to a boil. Simmer for 10 minutes, then remove from the heat and allow to cool completely. Put the cold mushrooms into jars and pour over the cold vinegar.

3 Cover, seal, and label.

# Spiced pickled pears

In the days when fruit was only available in season, it was often preserved in this way.These pears are a delicious accompaniment to any cold meats or poultry.You can use apples or quinces instead of pears if you like.

  * ☑ 6⅔ cups (3⅓ lbs) cooking or hard pears
  * ☑ Slightly saled cold water
  * ☑ Dash of lemon juice
  * ☑ 2½ cups white distilled vinegar
  * ☑ ¾ tsp ground mixed spice
  * ☑ ⅓ tsp grated nutmeg
  * ☑ ¾ tsp ground cinnamon
  * ☑ 2⅓ cups granulated or sugar
  * ☑ Finely pared rind of ½ lemon

1 Peel, halve (or quarter), and core the pears and put into a bowl of slightly salted water with a dash of lemon juice, to prevent them from becoming brown.

2 Mix a little of the vinegar with the spices and put the remaining vinegar and the sugar into a pan with the lemon rind. Heat gently until the sugar has dissolved completely, then add the spice mixture and bring to a boil.

3 Rinse the pears and add to the pan. Simmer gently for about 15-20 minutes, until the pears look clear and are tender but not broken. Remove the pears with a slotted spoon and put into warmed sterilized jars.

4 Discard the lemon peel and boil the liquid in the pan rapidly for about 10-15 minutes, until it has thickened to a syrup.

5 Remove from the heat. Pour over the pears to cover them completely and seal the jars immediately.

# Spiced pickled blackberries

Here, whole blackberries are covered in a lightly spiced vinegar syrup and make a tasty and unusual accompaniment to cold meats, game meat, and cheese.

  * ☑ 1¼ cups red wine vinegar
  * ☑ 2⅓ cups white or brown sugar
  * ☑ ⅓ tsp ground cinnamon
  * ☑ ⅓ tsp ground ginger
  * ☑ ⅓ tsp ground cloves
  * ☑ 12 cups (3½ lbs) blackberries

1 Put the vinegar, sugar, and spices into a large, heavy-based pan and heat gently until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer gently for a few minutes.

2 Add the blackberries and simmer for about 4-6 minutes, until the blackberries are soft but still whole. Remove the berries with a slotted spoon and pack into warmed sterilized jars.

3 Boil the vinegar and sugar rapidly for about 5 minutes, or until the mixture forms a thick syrup. Remove from the heat, then pour the hot syrup into the jars of fruit to cover completely.

4 Cover and seal tightly. Leave for at least three weeks before using.

# Pickled onions

These crunchy pickled onions are a great favorite and are delicious with cheese, cold meats and poultry, and in salads. If you like sweet pickled onion add the sugar, otherwise omit this. The spices add an aromatic flavor to the onions and vinegar.

  * ☑ 4 cups small pickling onions or shallots, peeled
  * ☑ 1⅔ Tbsp salt
  * ☑ 4⅕ cups malt vinegar
  * ☑ ¾ tsp coriander seeds (optional)
  * ☑ ¾ tsp peppercorns (optional)
  * ☑ 2 Tbsp granulated sugar (optional)

1 Put the onions into a large bowl with the salt and mix together. Cover and leave overnight.

2 Rinse thoroughly in cold water and leave to dry on absorbant paper towels or on a clean tea towel for about 15 minutes. Pack the onions into cold sterilized jars.

3 Put the vinegar, spices, and sugar (if using) into a medium pan and slowly bring to a boil over a low heat, until the sugar has dissolved completely. Cook steadily for 15 minutes, then remove from the heat and allow to cool completely.

4 Strain the vinegar through a sieve over the onions to cover completely. Cover and seal tightly. Store in a cool, dark cupboard for two weeks before eating.

# Pickled plums

These piquant plums are delicious with cold pies as well as any cold meats and poultry.You can use small red plums, damsons, or greengages in this recipe, and each will give a slightly different result.

  * ☑ 2½ cups (1 lb) small plums, stalks removed
  * ☑ 1¼ cups white distilled vinegar
  * ☑ 1⅕ cups granulated sugar
  * ☑ Finely pared rind of ½ lemon
  * ☑ Small piece fresh root ginger, bruised
  * ☑ 4 whole cloves, peeled
  * ☑ 1 cinnamon stick

1 Prick the plums all over with a darning needle and place in a medium, heavy-based pan. Cover with vinegar and add the sugar.

2 Tie the lemon rind and spices in a piece of muslin and add to the pan.

3 Heat gently, stirring, until the sugar has dissolved completely, then bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer very gently, until the fruit is tender, but don't let the skins break.

4 Remove the fruit with a slotted spoon and pack into warmed sterilized jars.

5 Discard the muslin and boil the liquid rapidly for 5 minutes, then remove from the heat. Pour immediately over the plums to cover completely.

6 Cover and seal tightly.

# Pickled red cabbage

This is one of the most popular pickles and is excellent with cheeses and cold meats.

It is also delicious served as an accompaniment to meaty stews and sausages. It is best eaten within two to three months, before the cabbage begins to lose its crispness.

  * ☑ 2 firm red cabbages, cut into fine shreds across the grain
  * ☑ ½ cup salt
  * ☑ 2½ cups red wine vinegar
  * ☑ 2½ cups distilled malt vinegar
  * ☑ 3 bay leaves
  * ☑ 1 Tbsp juniper berries (optional)

1 Put a layer of cabbage in a large bowl and sprinkle with salt. Repeat until all the cabbage has been used, ending with a layer of salt. Leave to stand for 24 hours, then drain out the liquid.

2 Rinse the cabbage well in cold water, then drain thoroughly.

3 Heat both vinegars in a large pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes, then remove from the heat and allow to cool completely.

4 Pack the cabbage into cold sterilized jars with the bay leaves and juniper berries (if using). Pour in the cold vinegar to cover completely.

5 Cover, seal, and label. Allow to mature for a week before eating.

# Piccalilli

The recipe for "sweet Indian pickle" was brought to England from the East in the 17th century and became known as piccalilli. Homemade piccalilli is much tastier and has a better texture than the commercial version. It is delicious with cold meats and cheeses. Use a mixture of cauliflower, cucumber, green beans, green tomatoes, pickling onions, and vegetable marrow.

  * ☑ 10 cups (3⅓ lbs) prepared vegetables (see introduction)
  * ☑ 1 cup salt
  * ☑ 8½ cups water
  * ☑ ½ cup demerara sugar
  * ☑ ¾ tsp ground ginger
  * ☑ 3⅖ cups white distilled vinegar
  * ☑ ¼ cup all-purpose flour
  * ☑ 1⅖ tsp turmeric
  * ☑ 1 Tbsp mustard powder

1 Cut all the vegetables into small, even-sized pieces and place in a large bowl.

2 Dissolve the salt in the water and pour over the vegetables. Keep the vegetables submerged with a weighted plate and cover the bowl with a cloth.

3 Leave to stand for 24 hours. Drain the vegetables and rinse thoroughly.

4 Place the vegetables in a large, heavy-based pan with the sugar, ginger, and three-quarters of the vinegar, and bring to a boil.

5 Reduce the heat and simmer gently until as crisp or as tender as you like them. Crisp vegetables will need only 5 minutes, simmering. Remove the vegetables with a slotted spoon, drain well, and put into hot sterilized jars.

6 Mix the flour, turmeric, and mustard powder with the remaining vinegar and stir into the hot liquid in the pan.

Bring to a boil and boil for about one minute, until thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon, then remove from the heat and pour over the vegetables.

7 Gently bang the jars on a work surface to remove any air bubbles and top up with more sauce if necessary.

8 Cover and seal while hot and store for 3 months before using.

# Bottling

We have Napoleon Bonaparte to thank for the idea of bottling fruit. In 1800, he offered a prize of 12,000 francs to anyone who could create a method of preserving food as a means of providing his armies with daily rations.The winner was Nicolas Appert who put forward his invention of bottling. Bottling fruit has remained very popular throughout the years and is a marvelous way to preserve a surplus of fruit.

# Equipment

Use proper preserving jars with matching lids and close-fitting rubber rings and wide necks so the fruits can be packed in easily. These are available from kitchen stores and come in varying sizes so you can bottle large or small quantities. Chipped jars or cracked lids must not be used as the seal will be poor, and the contents could become contaminated.

Mason jars are ideal and are available in a range of sizes. A Mason jar is a glass jar which has a lid in two sections to ensure an airtight seal. Originally a glass disc sat on top of the jar and was then secured in place with a metal screw band which contains a rubber seal. Nowadays both sections of the lid are usually made from metal. The original Mason jar is sometimes mistaken for the more widely available glass jar with a rubber seal and a metal hinge, which when closed forms an airtight seal. These jars can be used instead of a Mason jar.

Jars and lids must be well-washed, rinsed well, and put into a large pan of cold water. Bring slowly to a boil, then remove from the heat and leave the jars in the water until needed. Don't wipe the jars, just shake off any surplus water.

A sugar or preserving thermometer is advisable, to ensure the correct temperature has been reached.

# Ingredients

Fruit must be sound, unbruised, unblemished, and just ripe. Rinse the fruit gently under cold running water. Very fragile fruits, such as raspberries, only require a gentle swirl around in a bowl of cold water, then draining on absorbant paper towels. Then prepare the fruit as directed in the recipe.

Tomatoes are popular for bottling and there are hundreds of varieties available today—green, orange, yellow, red, tiny, huge, round, or plum shaped.Tomatoes hate the cold so are best stored at room temperature. If you do have some in the refrigerator, take them out a few hours before you plan to use them.

# Preparation

The fruit is packed into jars as tightly as possible without damaging it. The jars are then filled with cold water or syrup, and then the rubber rings, lids, and screw bands are put into place. Give the bands a half turn to loosen them slightly (the glass expands during sterilization). If using bottling jars with clips instead of screw bands, move the clips slightly to the side of the lids to decrease the pressure on the jars.

Line a deep, heavy pan with a thick layer of paper or cloth to prevent the jars from cracking. Put the jars in the pan, making sure they don't touch each other, and pour in cold water to come right up to the neck of the jars. Cover with a lid or triple thickness of foil.

Very slowly bring the water to simmering point—this should take at least 1½ hours. Follow the directions in individual recipes as some fruits will be required to reach a higher temperature than others. Check by using a preserving thermometer. Do not try to hurry this process; if the water is heated too quickly, the fruit may rise in the bottles and more time may be needed at the maximum temperature to enable the heat to penetrate the fruit in the center of the jars.

The temperature must be maintained for 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, then carefully remove the hot jars from the pan. Wear thick oven gloves to do this. Stand the hot jars on a wooden cutting board—not a cold surface or the jars may crack. Tighten the screw bands or move the clips to the center of the lids and leave to stand for 24 hours.

When cool, remove the screw bands or clips and test that the lids are tightly sealed. If not, the fruit is not safe to keep and should be eaten the same day.

Store bottled fruits in a cool, dark, dry cupboard. Check the seals from time to time to ensure the jars are still tightly sealed. Once opened, store in the refrigerator.

NB: only fruits and tomatoes should be bottled.Vegetables must not be bottled as the results could prove fatal if the correct temperature is not reached.

# What can go wrong?

If the fruit shrinks during storage this is due to air in the jars. After putting the fruit into the jars, tap the jars to remove any air bubbles.

Moldy fruits are caused by storing the jars in moist, warm conditions.

Discolored fruit is caused by storing the jars incorrectly. Light will bleach their color.

# Bottling individual fruits

Apples: peel, core, and slice. They will need 15 minutes at 180ºF.

Apricots: leave whole. They will need 15 minutes at 180ºF.

Blackberries: leave whole. They will need 10 minutes at 165ºF.

Cherries: remove stalks but leave whole. They will need 15 minutes at 180ºF.

Damsons: remove stalks but leave whole. They will need 15 minutes at 180ºF.

Gooseberries: top and tail but leave whole.They will need 15 minutes at 180ºF.

Mulberries: leave whole. They will need 10 minutes at 165ºF.

Peaches: blanch in boiling water for one minute and remove the skins. Cut in half and remove pits.They will need 15 minutes at 180ºF.

Pears: use dessert pears only. Cut in half or quarters and scoop out the soft cores.They will need 30 minutes at 190ºF.

Plums: remove stalks but leave whole or cut in half and remove pits. They will need 15 minutes at 180ºF.

Raspberries: leave whole. They will need 10 minutes at 165ºF.

# Apples and other hard fruits

Fruits that become brown when exposed to air should be dropped into a bowl of water with a little lemon juice added to prevent this from happening further.

# For every I Ib fruit you will need

  * ☑ ⅔ cup (5 oz) syrup (use 1⅖ cups sugar to every 2½ cups water)

1 To make the syrup, heat the sugar and water in a medium-large pan (depending on the amount of sugar and water used) and slowly bring to a boil for about 2 minutes, until the sugar has dissolved completely. Remove from the heat and allow to cool completely.

2 Pack the fruit (see page 109) into the prepared jars and pour in the cold syrup. This is best done slowly to allow the syrup to seep to the bottom of the jars.

3 Fit on the lids as directed on page 109. Line a deep, heavy pan with a thick layer of paper or cloth to prevent the jars from cracking. Put the jars in the pan, making sure they don't touch each other, and pour in cold water to come right up to the neck of the jars. Cover with a lid or triple thickness of foil.

4 Very slowly bring the water to simmering point—this should take at least 1½ hours. Follow the directions for individual fruits as some will require a longer time than others. Check by using a preserving thermometer. The temperature must be maintained for the stated time.

5 Remove the pan from the heat. Remove the hot jars from the pan. Wear thick oven gloves to do this. Stand the hot jars on a wooden cutting board—not a cold surface or the jars may crack.

6 Tighten the screw bands or move the clips to the center of the lids and leave to stand for 24 hours.

7 Remove the screw bands or clips and test that the lids are tightly sealed. This is to ensure that a complete vacuum has been formed during the processing and that no air is in the jars. If not, the fruit is not safe to keep and should be eaten the same day.

# Fruit salad

The fruit in this recipe is bottled by a different method. The fruit is packed into hot jars, covered with boiling syrup, and placed in a low oven to sterilize the fruit. The success with this method rests in the quick filling and sealing of the bottles as soon as they are removed from the oven.

  * ☑ 2⅓ cups sugar
  * ☑ 4⅔ cups water
  * ☑ 5¾ cups (2½ lbs) Victoria plums, cut in half and pits removed
  * ☑ 1¼ cups seedless grapes
  * ☑ 6 peaches, skinned, cut in half, and pits removed
  * ☑ 4 dessert pears, cut in quarters and cores removed

1 Put the sugar and water into a medium pan over a low heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved completely. Bring to a boil and boil for 2 minutes. Preheat the oven to 300ºF.

2 Pack an equal quantity of fruit into hot sterilized jars. Pour the boiling syrup over the fruit to within one inch of the top of the jars. Arrange the jars about 2 inches apart on baking trays lined with newspaper. Cover the jars with lids (but not screw bands) and place in the oven for 1½ hours.

3 Remove from the oven and screw the caps on tightly to seal. Leave to stand for 24 hours.

4 Remove the screw bands or clips and test that the lids are tightly sealed. This is to ensure that a complete vacuum has been formed during the processing and that no air is in the jars, otherwise the fruit is not safe to the jars, otherwise the fruit is not safe to keep and should be eaten the same day.

# Bottled tomatoes

# For every 7½ cups (3⅓ lbs) tomatoes you will need

  * ☑ 1½ Tbsp lemon juice
  * ☑ 1 tsp salt
  * ☑ 1 tsp sugar

1 If using small tomatoes, remove the stalks but leave whole. Medium or large tomatoes can be blanched in boiling water to remove the skins, then cut into halves or quarters.

2 Toss the tomatoes in the lemon juice, sugar, and salt. Pack tightly into jars, with no air spaces between them.

3 Put the jars in a large pan, making sure they don't touch each other and pour in cold water to come right up to the neck of the jars. Cover with a lid or triple thickness of foil.Very slowly bring the water to simmering point—this should take at least 1½ hours.

4 Whole tomatoes will need 30 minutes at 190ºF. Halved or quartered tomatoes will need 40 minutes at the same temperature. Check by using a preserving thermometer. The temperature must be maintained for the stated time.

5 Remove the pan from the heat and carefully remove the hot jars from the pan. Wear thick oven gloves to do this. Stand the hot jars on a wooden cutting board—not a cold surface or the jars may crack. Tighten the screw bands or move the clips to the center of the lids and leave to stand for 24 hours.

6 Remove the screw bands or clips and test that the lids are tightly sealed. If they are not, the tomatoes are not safe to keep and should be eaten the same day.

# Salting

Salting green beans and white cabbage is a time-honored way of preserving summer and autumn vegetables to use during the winter months. Salt is an excellent preservative and salted vegetables will keep for about six months.

# Equipment

Large stone or glass jars are necessary to layer the vegetables with the salt. These must be scrupulously clean and dry.

# Ingredients

Vegetables used for salting must be fresh, young, and tender, unblemished and completely dry.

Salt has two effects: it draws water from the vegetables by the process of osmosis.Then the salt in the resulting brine sets off the fermentation process of the lactic bacteria. The ensuing fermentation is bacteriologically complex and produces a diverse range of multifaceted flavors. In Europe, the most common salted vegetable is white cabbage, which when salted and fermented, is known as sauerkraut.

Salt inhibits attack by harmful micro-organisms. Sea salt or special pickling salt are the best types to use as they are free from impurities and come in the form of crystals. Table salt is mass-produced and refined and has been treated to ensure it pours easily.

Spices such as juniper berries and caraway seeds are often used to flavor sauerkraut. Caraway has a warm, pungent aroma and sweet, tangy flavor. Juniper berries add a slightly resinous note of pine to the flavor.

# Preparation

The vegetables are prepared according to type (runner beans and French beans are the most usual) and will be indicated in the recipes. Use only fresh, young, tender beans; wash them and dry thoroughly. The vegetables are then packed well down into the jars, alternately with layers of salt sprinkled generously over them. Begin and end with a thick layer of salt and press down the vegetables as you layer them. Most bacteria cannot survive in a highly salty environment and this is how the food is preserved.

Cover and leave in a cool, dark place for four days.The vegetables will have shrunk, so it is necessary to top off the jars with more vegetables and salt, finishing with a layer of salt. As the salt draws liquid from the vegetables, it will form a strong brine. The brine should be kept intact otherwise air pockets will form and the vegetables will deteriorate rapidly, and bacteria and mold will develop.

The jars are sealed tightly and stored in a cupboard for up to six months. Don't place the jars on stone or brick as moisture will be drawn out of them.

Before eating the vegetables it is essential to rinse them thoroughly in cold water and then soak them in warm water for two hours. Cook for about 20-30 minutes or until tender. Drain and serve as for fresh vegetables.

# What can go wrong?

There's not really anything that can go wrong when salting vegetables. Just remember to rinse them very well before eating or they will be overpoweringly salty.

# Runner beans

Runner beans are also known as scarlet runner beans due to their attractive, vivid red flowers, originally the reason they were grown in gardens. Fresh young runner beans are one of the best summer vegetables, succulently tender and packed with flavor.Tiny young beans are very tender and don't need topping, tailing, or stringing.

  * ☑ 10 cups (2½ lbs) fresh young runner beans, topped and tailed
  * ☑ 2 cups coarse or sea salt, not table salt

1 Remove any strings from the sides of the beans if necessary and cut the beans into thin, diagonal slices.

2 Put a thick layer of salt in the base of large glass jars or an earthenware crock. Add a layer of beans. Repeat until all the beans have been used, ending in a layer of salt. Press each layer of beans down well as you layer them. When the jar is full, cover with a lid.

3 Leave in a cool, dark place for 4 days, by which time the beans will have shrunk. Top off the jars with more beans and salt, finishing with a layer of salt.

4 Seal tightly and store for up to 6 months.

To serve: rinse thoroughly and cook in simmering water for about 10 minutes, or until tender.

# String beans

String, or French, beans are smaller and rounder than runner beans and have a mild but very pleasant flavor. They originated in Central and South America and were introduced into Europe in the 16th century.

I Follow the recipe and method as with runner beans (see opposite) but leave the beans whole.

To serve: rinse thoroughly and cook in simmering water for about 10 minutes, or until tender.

# Sauerkraut

The cabbage ferments as it is stored and has a unique and distinctive sour flavor. Homemade sauerkraut is much tastier than the commercial variety and is well worth the time and effort it takes to make. Caraway, bay leaves, and juniper berries add an aromatic flavor, but you can omit these if you wish. It is worth making a large amount as it is a lengthy process.

  * ☑ 4 large heads white cabbage, about 4⅔ cups (11 lbs), finely shredded
  * ☑ ⅔ cups sea salt
  * ☑ Few juniper berries (optional)
  * ☑ Few caraway seeds (optional)
  * ☑ Few bay leaves (optional)

1 Mix the cabbage and salt in a very large mixing bowl.

2 Pack tightly into a 36-cup stoneware jar, adding a few juniper berries, caraway seeds, and bay leaves, if using.

3 Cover the top of the cabbage with a clean cloth or double thickness of muslin. Add a stopper that fits inside the container or put a plate on top that fits inside the jar.

4 Place a heavy weight (a stone or brick is ideal) on the plate and leave in a warm room (70ºF) for 4-5 days. When froth appears, remove the weight and plate, and skim it off. Leave to stand for another 2 days and skim off the froth again. Repeat this process for 2 weeks.

5 The sauerkraut is now ready to eat and can be kept in the refrigerator for several weeks or frozen.

For long-term storage: drain the brine into a large pan and add the cabbage. Heat to simmering point and immediately put into warmed preserving jars.

Line a deep, heavy-based pan with a thick layer of paper or cloth to prevent the jars from cracking. Put the jars in the pan, making sure they don't touch each other, and pour in cold water to come right up to the neck of the jars. Cover with a lid or triple thickness of foil. Very slowly bring the water to simmering point and simmer for 30 minutes.

Carefully remove the jars from the pan. Wear thick oven gloves to do this. Stand the hot jars on a wooden cutting board—not a cold surface or the jars may crack. Tighten the screw bands or move the clips to the center of the lids and leave to stand for 24 hours. Remove the screw bands or clips and test that the lids are tightly sealed.

Store the jars in a cool, dark place for up to a year.

To serve: rinse the salty juices out before using. Taste a little and if it is still too salty soak it for about 20 minutes in lukewarm water, then rinse again. Drain and squeeze out the liquid. Sauerkraut can be eaten as it is or cooked by simmering in a pan of boiling water for about 15-30 minutes until done to your liking.You can also cook sauerkraut by stewing it very slowly for about 2 hours in a pan with just enough water to cover. Alternatively, fry sauerkraut briefly in a little oil in a frying pan, then cover with boiling water and cook until done to your liking.

# AUTUMN

# Vegetables and herbs

Artichokes (globe and Jerusalem)   
Beans (kidney and runner)   
Broccoli   
Cabbage   
Carrots   
Celery   
Cucumbers   
Leeks   
Lettuce   
Marrows   
Mint   
Mushrooms   
Parsley   
Parsnips   
Potatoes   
Pumpkin   
Radishes   
Rutabaga   
Shallots   
Spinach   
Squash   
Sweetcorn   
Tomatoes   
Turnips   
Watercress   
Zucchini

# Fruits

Apples, including crab apples   
Blackberries   
Damsons   
Elderberries   
Pears   
Plums   
Raspberries

# WINTER

# Vegetables and herbs

Artichokes (globe and Jerusalem)   
Beetroot   
Brussels sprouts   
Cabbage   
Carrots   
Cauliflowers   
Celery   
Chicory   
Kale   
Leeks   
Mushrooms   
Onions   
Parsnips   
Potatoes   
Rutabaga   
Shallots   
Turnips   
Watercress

# Fruits

Apples   
Pears   
Quinces

# SPRING

# Vegetables and herbs

Artichokes (globe and Jerusalem)   
Asparagus   
Beetroot   
Broccoli   
Carrots   
Cauliflowers   
Celery   
Cucumbers   
Lettuce   
Mint   
Mushrooms   
New potatoes   
Parsley   
Rutabaga   
Spinach   
Spring green cabbage   
Spring onions   
Watercress

# Fruits

Apples   
Rhubarb

# SUMMER

# Vegetables and herbs

Artichokes (globe and Jerusalem)   
Basil   
Beans (broad, kidney, and runner)   
Cabbage   
Carrots   
Cauliflowers   
Celery   
Cucumbers   
Lettuce   
Marrows   
Mint   
Mushrooms   
Parsley   
Peas   
Radishes   
Spinach   
Tomatoes   
Watercress

# Fruits

Blackcurrants   
Cherries   
Damsons   
Gooseberries   
Greengages   
Mulberries   
Pears   
Plums   
Raspberries   
Redcurrants   
Strawberries   
Zucchini

To find many useful links to canning and preserving supplies, please visit:

http://housewares.about.com/od/canningpreserving/a/canningsupplies.html

allspice

apples

bottling

Apple and blackberry jam

Apple, apricot, and cardamom chutney

Apple butter

Apple, pear, and plum jam

Autumn chutney

Tomato apple jam

apricots

Apple, apricot, and cardamom chutney

bottling

Hunza

Apricot and onion chutney

Apricot curd

Apricot jam

Autumn chutney

bay leaves

beetroot

Beetroot chutney

blackberries

Apple and blackberry jam

Autumn chutney

Blackberry butter

bottling

Bramble jelly

Spiced pickled blackberries

blackcurrants

Blackcurrant jam

blueberries

Blueberry jam

dried

bottling

Apples and other hard fruits

Bottled tomatoes

discolored fruit

equipment

fruit rising in bottles

Fruit salad

fruit shrinking during storage

individual fruits

ingredients

moldy fruits

preparation

Bramble jelly

brandy

brine

butter

cabbage

Pickled red cabbage

red

sauerkraut

white

Caesar, Julius

caraway seeds

cardamom

Cardamom, apple, apricot, and

cardamom chutney

cayenne pepper

cellophane covers

cherries

bottling

Cherry jam

chutney

cooking

equipment

ingredients

maturing

raw flavor in

setting

storage

cinnamon

citrus fruitssee also named citrus fruits

cloves

coriander

Crab apple jelly

cranberries, dried

cucumbers

Cucumber pickle

cumin

curds

currants

damsons

bottling

Damson cheese

Plum butter

dried fruits

eggs

elastic bands

elderberries

Elderberry chutney

Gooseberry and elderflower jam

fermentation

figs

French (string beans)

salting

fruit butters and curds

cooking

curdling

equipment

ingredients

mold

storage

Fruit salad

funnels

gherkins

ginger

Marrow and ginger jam

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gooseberries

bottling

Gooseberry and elderflower jam

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herbs

Gooseberry mint jelly

Herb jelly

Redcurrant and rosemary jelly

honey

jam

crystallization

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equipment

fruit pieces rising in

cooking

ingredients

moldy or fermented

popular fruits for

runny

setting

shrinking

stiff and rubbery

storage

jams, jellies, and marmalades

jars

Mason

stone or glass

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bubbles in

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popular fruits for

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jelly bags

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Mason jars

labelling

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lemons

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mace

mango, dried

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dull

equipment

moldy or fermented

setting

storage

tough peel in

Marrow and ginger jam

Medlar jelly

Mixed pickles

mixed spice

mold

mulberries

bottling

Mulberry and plum jam

mushrooms

Pickled mushrooms

mustard seeds

nutmeg

onions

Pickled onions

oranges

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papaya, dried

Parsley honey

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pectin

peppercorns

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pickles

equipment

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plums

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Pickled plums

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Victoria

preserving thermometers

prunes

Pumpkin curd

quinces

paste

Quince butter

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raisins

raspberries

bottling

Raspberry jam

redcurrants

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rhubarb

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Rowan jelly

rubber rings

runner beans

salting

salt

pickling

sea

salting

vegetables

equipment

ingredients

preparation

rinsing vegetables before eating

sauerkraut

seasonal produce

sieves

spices

for chutney and pickles

pickling spice mixes

sterilization

strawberries

Strawberry jam

sugar

jam

preserving

thermometers

types of

sultanas

tea

tomatoes

Bottled tomatoes

bottling

Green tomato chutney

Ripe tomato chutney

Tomato apple jam

treacle

Turkey

turmeric

vegetables, preserving with salt and/or vinegar

vinegar

"pickling"

cider

malt

white wine

vitamins

waxed paper discs

wine
