slightly funky notions appear first: there's a hint of reduction but this, thankfully, blows off. underneath sits a very sprightly, very fresh wine that pits fruity apple mellowness against total, dry freshness. this has a concentrated core, the aromas are still a little tinged by the flinty, smoky hints of reduction but this will stand them in good stead for cellar age. give this some time. drink 2020–2030.
Hengst Grand Cru