this has to be one of the last 1996's released, and it shows its age in the bricky-orange color around the rim and the bouquet, which is beginning to be dominated by dried-fruit and cigar-box notes. it's losing fruit in the mouth, too, with the flavors, such as they are, tending toward earth, tea and tomato juice. yet it's got some interesting complexities, and fans of mature pinots will find lots to dwell on.
Reserve