a funky whiff of yeast has to blow off before wonderfully pure orange zest notes appear. the palate has a wonderful richness of texture, something earthy with a pithy, beautiful grip. the flavors are still taut, for now (just zesty aromatic orange peel) but much more still hides and sleeps below the surface. this is powerful and concentrated, with a lovely and enduring backbone of freshness. this needs bottle age to come into its own. the finish is fresh, clean and lasting. drink 2020–2037.
Hengst Grand Cru