with the 2009 vintage, de loach is at the top of its pinot noir game, and this one, from a chilly vineyard south of sebastopol, is among its best ever. the crisp acidity, like a squirt of lime, that accompanies the raspberry, cherry and persimmon fruit is bracing. meanwhile, a mushroomy earthiness gives complex layers that don't stop. it should age through the next decade.
Pennacchio Vineyard