a deliberately oxidized style makes for an immensely intriguing wine that falls between the usual austrian categories—but then we need wines that defy neat boxes. aromas of toasted cashew nuts and dried orange peel segue into a dryish, citrus-scented palate, with a central, thick slick of salted caramel and racy acidity. the longer you taste, the more facets appear, even as the palate fades into notions of salty, candied mandarin zest. unusual and uncategorisable, but unforgettable. despite being called apéritif, it might be best with cheese and tapas.
Apéritif