right now, although the nose is closed, exposure to air reveals the purity of lemon oil on a taut and tight palate still singing with yeasty notes. this is in its very infancy and promises to open up beautifully with its straight, soaring backbone of freshness. underneath all the tightly curled layers of citrus peel slumbers a salty stoniness that signals ageability; the long, lemony finish corroborates this. how utterly lip-smacking. drink 2020–2030
Ried Klaus