delicate power—any oxymoron—would be a fitting way to describe this single-vineyard beauty, grown in the northern part of the appellation. there's a lightness to the mouthfeel, like cotton candy, but then the power kicks in, reminiscent of cherry reduction, anise, orange zest, herb tea, black pepper and clove-dominated asian spices. there's even a hint of smoky chocolate. best now through 2012.
Melville Vineyard