tasty and smooth, this rioja shows sweet black cherry fruit and licorice aromas and flavors. there's plenty of oak here, too, plus some tannins to lose on the even, dry menthol and leather-tinged close. will benefit from a year or two in bottle, and may shine quite nicely if the fruit comes forward a bit more. drink now–2007. best buy. —m.m.
Conde de Valdemar Crianza 1998