varietal graciano will never fit into the mold of “tried and true,” but this 2004 from top-level producer contino shows the grape in its most positive light. the nose is natural, with hints of cola and ripe berries. the feel is brawny and intense, with semi-searing acids offset by ripe tannins. finishes well, with a cleansing wave of red fruit and citrusy flavors. more of a novelty than anything, but a fine wine in and of itself.
Single Vineyard