mughals did not like their women to show off their shapes i have evolved it into elegant silhouettes with tighter cuts around the waist and fitted embroidered busts the kalis pleats have been joined below the waist i have also shortened their lengths she explained the original anarkali has a mass of voluminous pleats a baggy top that fell well below the knees almost touching the ankles they were usually matched with indianstyle churidars and salwars delhibased designer samant chauhan a native of bihar who flaunted an organic line of heavily textured and draped dresses in cream bhagalpur silk said structured fits were the ramp highlights both in india and abroad i have experimented with long and tight churidar sleeves and modified the anarkalidresses with less flounce and pleats to fit the broader indian women the indian market is finally ready to accept structured clothes he told ians young designer namita rathod who has trained in milan used innovative benaras motifs and textures in a fusion of silk and cotton for her fitted line of formal wear the silhouettes of last year have become smarter and upbeat fit gives a feeling of formality and structured clothes are associated with confidence rathod whose collection was themed on natural fabrics and three dimensional patterns told ians designer charu parashars women of impact collection drawn from heroines of the past like laxmi bai chand bibi and kaurvaki featured slinky figurehugging clothes designer namrata joshipura boasted of formfitting dresses jackets highwaist trousers pencil skirts corset tops and layered dresses