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SEPTEMBER 2013 BRITISH HERITAGE 5

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Dateline

  Y      BETTYS CAFE
ndon

TOURIST OFFICIALS at Visit England
  have compiled a must-do list of 101 activities in

Stop by Betty's for tea in Harrogate. It's a classic!

England—a "bucket list" of adventures to cap-

there's
  surfing the Severn tidal bore, following

ture England's cultural and historic diversity.

the Coast-to-Coast trail from Cumbria

Yes, visits to places such as Hadrian's Wall,

through
  Yorkshire and searching for bats in

Stonehenge and Portsmouth Historic
  Dock-

the Cheddar
  Gorge caves. A more genteel

yards are
  on the list. For the more energetic,
Manchester
United Faces
a Big Change
AFTER 27
  YEARS and 1,500 games at the helm of the world's most famous (and valuable)
  sports franchise, Sir Alex Ferguson is stepping down as the manager of
  Manchester United. During Ferguson's tenure, the celebrated football club won
  13 Premier League titles and a total of 38 coveted trophies, including the
  European Champions League in 1999 and 2008. Ferguson retires at the end of
  the season as the most successful football manager in history. His
  announcement was greeted by tributes from

entry is tea at Betty's in Harrogate.

around the world and from the floor of the

Known affectionately as Fergie,
  Manchester United's

House of Commons.

legendary manager takes retirement
  after 27 years.

101
hin sto Do in England
Dambusting Over Derbyshire
A
series of events have marked the
70th
anniversary of the famous World
War Il Dambusters raid into Germany's
Ruhr Valley. Among them, a single vintage Lancaster bomber performed a flypast
over Derbyshire's Derwent Reservoir, which the original aircrews used for
practice runs leading up to the dramatic raid.
A Major Discovery
Under Lincoln Castle Remember those
archaeologists digging into the rebuilding of Lincoln Castle (May 2013)?
Unexpectedly, they have uncovered the remnants of a 1,000-year-old church and
eight skeletons ceremonially buried there more than 100 years before the Norman
Conquest and William the Conqueror's first building of the castle. Unearthed 10
feet below the present ground level, the finds are being greeted by experts as
"hugely significant."

DANG,O
Dover's White Cliffs
Falling Down
A collapse of the cliff
face at St Margaret's Bay brought tons of rock crashing onto the shoreline
between Deal and Dover. The rockfall from the famous White Cliffs happened just
yards away from a house once owned by Ian Fleming, leaving a pile of chalk
20-feet high extending 150 yards into the English Channel.
The Queen
Receives a Bafta At this years British film and television awards, Her Majesty
was presented by Kenneth Branagh with an honorary
Bafta for her lifelong
support of British film and television—and for being "the most memorable
Bond girl yet" at last summer's Olympic opening ceremonies.
Leitester•

IT WILL STILL BE SOME TIME before
  the bones of King Richard Ill are finally laid to rest. Whether he'll rest in
  peace is still up in the air. While there are those who continue to argue
  that the last Plantagenet king should rest in York or in the Westminster
  Abbey, the matter of the Royal tomb has proven controversial as well.

At least
  Richard Ill's bones will have a resting place.
Long-laid plans by the
  Richard Ill Society for a tasteful marble tomb inscribed with the monarch's
  motto Loyalty Me Lie ("Loyalty Binds Me") have been scotched by
  Leicester Cathedral in favor of a simple floor level marker.

Ricardian Controversy Continues
Northampton
Last Chance for
Princess Diana
Museum
OPENED IN 1998, the exhibition of the late Princess
Diana's jewelry, dresses and family memorabilia at the Spencer family estate,
Althorp, near Northampton, will close next summer. According to her will,
Diana's belongings were to be protected by her brother, Earl Spencer, until her
sons turned 30. Younger son Harry will be 30 next year. While it is unknown
what will happen to the collection, British media speculate that it may
eventually go on display at Kensington Palace, where Diana resided until her death.
After being on
display for 15 years at the Spencer home, the late princess' possessions go to
her sons.

Dateline
Buckingham Palace
Queen to Miss the

Commonwealth Summit
FOR THE FIRST
TIME IN 40 YEARS, Her Majesty will not attend the biannual gathering of heads
of government of the 54 Commonwealth nations to be held this November in Sri
Lanka. The palace confirmed that the Prince of Wales, who will become head of
the Commonwealth when he becomes king, will go in her place. The Royal
Household has begun limiting her long-haul travel in a concession to the
Queen's advancing age; she is now 87. Courtiers insist, however, that the
monarch's diary will be as busy as ever. During the Diamond Jubilee year the
indefatigable Queen undertook 425 public engagements.
Prince Charles will be
taking on more royal duties.
Poftsmc)lìíh

AFTER 19
  YEARS and millions of gallons of water and wax, engineers turned off the jets
  that have been continually spraying the hull of Mary Rose. The historic
  milestone brings the last phase of conservation for the King Henry Vlll's
  ill-fated flag ship (and thought to be the first warship to fire a broadside)
  that went down in

It's the
  world's only 16th-century warship on display.
front of him in 1545 during the
  Battle of the Solent. After three years out of public view, the new £35
  million museum built to house the only 16th-century warship on display
  anywhere in the world is open in Portsmouth.

Maö'tRosein
Aistorid Milesto e
E ORE
Falkland
Islanders Vote British A referendum in the Falklands on the question of whether
the islanders wish to stay British in the face of Argentine claims on the
islands yielded a clear result. With a 92 percent voter turnout, islanders
voted 1513-to-3 in favor of remaining a British overseas territory.
Beckham Leaves the Pitch England's
global football superstar has announced his retirement at age 38. David Beckham
won four league championships in four different countries since starting his
career with Manchester United. Beckham leaves the international stage having
represented England in a record-setting 115 matches with the national team.

Quarry Dig Yields Neolithic Houses
Archaeologists have uncovered the remains of a 5,700-year-old village at
Kingsmead Quarry, near WindsoL The foundations of four Neolithic houses make up
one of the oldest permanent settlements yet found in Britain. In fact, this is
the first time more than one house from this period has ever been found on a
single site.
Dr. Alistair Barclay, of
Wessex
Archaeology,
calls the discovery a unique opportunity to learn more about the earliest
settlements in prehistoric Britain.
Even Actual Champagne
Takes a British Twist
The house label champagne
from discount supermarket chain Asda, priced at less than £20, won a
coveted Gold Medal at the International Wine

East Sussex
The Glories of English Wine

Challenge
awards. The Asda Extra Special Premier Cru Champagne beat out expensive French
rivals such as the £135 Cuvee Amour De Deutz in the annual wine
"Oscars."
CRU
Mold, North Wales
The de Brecy Tondo Goes on the Block
IT HUNG
ABOVE a bedroom fireplace in Leeswood Hall, Mold, for years. Art experts have
been pouring over it for 30 years. Now the Raphael painting believed to be a
prototype for the artist's Sistine Madonna is to be sold in a first-ofits-kind
online auction. Regarded as one of the Renaissance artist's masterpieces,
bidding will start at £1,000,000.
SO CELEBRATED have English wines become that even the Washington Post ran
a front page story on the rise of English sparkling white wines to the level of
good French champagnes and multiple international awards to prove it. Subtle
warming of the British and Continental
The de Brecy Tondo has
been described as the most studied Renaissance painting in the world.
climate over the last four decades is credited with being a major factor,
and a major concern to French wine growers.
The subtle
effects of climate change are credited with the dramatic improvement in English
white wines. •

Take Ten
World
War Il Visits
Where the War Years Come Alive

fil CABINET WAR ROOMS, u
LONDON
This wartime bunker beneath Whitehall
housed Churchill and his government during the Blitz. It became the effective
command and control center while bombs fell on the city. In the maze of rooms,
Churchill and the War Cabinet lived, worked and planned the war around the
clock
IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM,
DUXFORD
The former airfield in East Anglia holds
and maintains all the iconic aircraft that flew from hundreds of bases across
eastern England. A highlight is the American Air Museum, housing the largest
collection of U.S. warbirds outside of the States—and honoring the 30,000 U.S.
airmen who gave their lives flying from UK bases.
 EDEN CAMB
MALTON
Up in the Yorkshire Wolds, Eden Camp was a
POW camp for 2,000 Italian and German prisoners of war—largely intact to this
day. Now, Eden Camp is a "the modern history theme museum," and a
most fascinating and comprehensive presentation of World War Il military
operations and life on the Home Front.
AMERICAN MILITARY
CEMETERY,
 MADINGLEY
Lovingly tended and unfailingly moving,
just outside of Cambridge row on row of white crosses mark graves of U.S.
servicemen who died serving out of the East Anglian airfields. The chapel and
visitor center tell the powerful story of their war and their sacrifice.
 DOVER
CASTLE, Z) DOVER
The second-largest castle in Britain has
been guarding the Straits for centuries. Below the old castle, visit Hellfire
Corner, the underground command post that organized the evacuation of Dunkirk,
and the secret military hospital.
 BLETCHLEY
PARK, C) MILTON KEYNES
Top secret for decades, Bletchley Park was
the National Codes Centre that contributed mightily to Allied success. The
famous German "Enigma" code was cracked here, and arguably the first
proper computers in the world were built. Today, Bletchley Park is a
fascinating visit, telling the whole story.
 D-DAY
MUSEUM,
I] PORTSMOUTH
Operation Overlord set out from harbors
all across the southern coast. The museum on the Southsea waterfront tells the
story of the invasion of Normandy. One of its prizes is the Overlord Tapestry,
recounting the invasion in an embroidered mural based on the famed Bayeaux
Tapestry.
 AIR
FORCES MEMORIAL,
u)
RUNNYMEDE
Few Americans ever visit this
poignant memorial perched overlooking the water meadows of Runnymede and the
River Thames. Some 27,000 airmen who perished in the Battle of Britain and have
no known grave are remembered by name and unit in the quiet, white colonnades.
n CHARTWELL, V EDENBRIDGE
For many people, Winston Churchill remains
the personification of Britain's World War Il experience. Here at his country
home in Kent, Churchill spent his "wilderness" years, and retreated
from London at war to plan, write and rejuvenate his own spirits.
COVENTRY CATHEDRAL,
COVENTRY
Coventry Cathedral, like the rest of the
industrial city, was leveled by bombs during the war. The new cathedral,
however, was raised out of the surviving shell of the old medieval church. It's
an evocative visit and a different experience of the wa{s aftermath.

F.w.FX
SARGENT .t.M,H.
SCHOLEFtEl.l),
SIMPSON F.
STURROCK
- SUCKLING M.F.

EDEN
  CAMP

AIR
FORCES MEMORIAL
AIR FORCES MEMORIAL
DANA
HUNTLEY                                                                                •

In Remembrance of
Margaret Thatcher

"WATCHING THE
FUNERAL, finding it hard not to feel we are today somehow burying
England," tweeted British journalist Melanie Phillips.
"We will do
well to honor Margaret Thatcher appropriately. She saved Britain," noted
Prime Minister David Cameron in the House of Commons following Lady Thatcher's
passing.
While there are
plenty of people who vehemently take issue that Maggie Thatcher, the Iron Lady,
saved Britain, there is certainly no question that she changed it, and changed
it more markedly than any politician in more than a century. Whether you loved
her or hated her for the policies she successfully championed during her 11
years as prime minister, Margaret Thatcher was important.
I was in the York
Visitors Centre when word spread of Margaret Thatcher's death. For some reason
it was one of those indelible moments—like remembering where you

were when JFK was assassinated or on
the morning of 9/11. The rest of that cold April day in York memories flooded
back to me of those years in the '80s when the Iron Lady was very much in
charge and trod mightily for Britain on the world stage.
I was there in
1982, when Argentina launched its occupation of the Falkland Islands. Without
hesitation, Thatcher took the country to an unlikely war to protect its
sovereignty and the freedom of British citizens on a set of rocky islands
12,000 miles from the British mainland. She persevered, and the British
military and people rose to the occasion in true British fashion. She gave the
country something to cheer about and justly express national pride.
I was there in
1983, when hundreds of thousands of working-class families across Britain were
giddy that Maggie's housing policy would allow them to buy their public housing
"council house" at a discount—and get them on the housing ladder. I
remember, all of a sudden, old Will had something to leave his grandson; he was
chuffed indeed.
I was there in
1984 when Arthur Scargill led the miners out on strike and Margaret faced down
the union for more than a year. It wasn't pretty, and it wasn't fun for anyone.

hangs
Street.

Margaret
Thatcher's formal portrait at 10 Downing
In the two or
three days following the former prime minister's passing, all the news coverage
on British media was devoted to covering the topic from every perspective. Not
unsurprisingly, much attention was paid to the "divisive" nature of
Thatcher's person and her legacy. For all the just accolades and warm memories
shared of Margaret Thatcher, the media repeatedly showed snippets as well of
miners in South Yorkshire or elsewhere in celebratory spirits at the death of
this old enemy.
I know that side,
too. Over the past 20 years, I have spent more time in the Valleys—the coal
fields of South Wales than any other corner of Britain. It's a place and a
people for which I have great affection. In the '70s a quarter of a million men
worked in the coal fields; now the mines are silent and more than 20 years
after the closure of the last pits, memories of Margaret Thatcher are still
hot, and there is no love lost for the Conservative party generally.
Employment, a way of life and an industry are gone; the social cost is still
high; and, yes, Thatcher was largely responsible (though mine closures had
already begun under Harold Wilson). Throughout Britain's coalfields, the story
is the same—in Yorkshire, Durham, the Scottish lowlands and such. That's where
Thatcher is denounced and vilified to this day. It's quite understandable why
people bear such feelings. When your own life is so materially impacted, it's
rather difficult to step back and take a larger view.
But take it we must, and history shall. In
the late '70s before Margaret Thatcher's first electoral victory, Britain was
widely scorned as the "sick man of Europe." Its economy was in a
shambles following three decades of Labour's deficit spending and social engineering.
Inflation ran above 13 percent in 1979 (it wasn't much better in this country).
All of Britain's traditional heavy industries had been nationalized. The State
owned the coal mines and the steel works, automotive manufacturing,
telecommunications, railroads, British Airways and even Thomas Cooke. The state
companies all ran at a deficit, subsidized an average of £300 million
each per year by a depleted treasury and usurious tax rates. It took six months
to get a telephone, garbage piled up in Trafalgar Square and widespread power
outages meant that many industries could only function three days a week.
At the same time, the workforce all
belonged to the trade unions, which enjoyed a closed shop in monopoly,
state-owned industries. Year after year the union leaders took their unions out
on strike, decimating Britain's industrial output and virtually holding the
Government to ransom. In 1979 Britain lost 29 million working days to
industrial action. The difference between British and American labor law was
significant: British unions did not have to poll their members before a strike.
There was no ballot; union leaders could simply call their members out on
strike. In practice, that meant that the British economy and the production of
its heavy industry lay hostage to the dictates of eight or a dozen labor union
bosses.
Margaret Thatcher ran the 1979 election
with a straightforward slogan: "Enough is enough. " The British
electorate agreed and Maggie swept into 10 Downing Street with a clear vision
for what she saw must be done. No, there was no soft landing. There never is.
Unemployment and interest rates both rose significantly as the stalwart Iron
Lady reformed British labor law, privatized 33 national companies, revised
Britain's outmoded banking regulations and took a lead in the machinations of
world politics that brought an end to the Cold War.
By the late '80s, however, the companies
that had been draining the treasury with subsidies were paying £3 to 5
billion a year to the Exchequer. People who never dreamed of owning shares
bought them in the public offerings; British Airways' IPO was five-times oversubscribed,
not by speculating merchant banks, but by ordinary Brits. Consumer prices fell
as well with privatization: telecom charges dropped 40 percent, natural gas
prices 25 to 40 percent
Even Maggie's Spitting
Image puppet is famous.
ABOVE LEFT AND RIGHT: REUTERS; RIGHT: LEWIS WHYLD/PA
WIRE
'A
and
airport charges by 10 percent.
When Thatcher took office, some 26 percent
of the British people owned their own home; when she left office in 1990, 41
percent were homeowners. Inflation was below 3 percent. British manufacturing
production had risen 7.5 percent. In her spare time, she faced down the IRA and
signed the Anglo-Irish Agreement of 1985, and brokered the relationship between
Reagan and Gorbachev that brought the Cold War to an effective conclusion.
Avowed statists of any description are
bound to take issue with a political leader who famously believed, "There
is no such thing as society; there are individual men and women, and there are
families." Thatcher believed in the moral primacy of the individual, not
of the State, consistent with the world view of her Methodist upbringing, and
with the aspirational liberalism of John Stuart Mill that championed
responsibility and authority to individuals for their own lives. Her critics
blithely call
The
former prime minister lay in the Crypt Chapel of St. Mary Undercroft at
Westminster Palace.
that
"greed" and "selfishness; " her champions call it freedom.
The funerals of past political leaders are
generally low-key affairs in Britain. Not since Churchill's death in 1965 had
the Queen attended a former PM's funeral, nor had the bells of Big Ben been
silenced. Nor had the streets of London been lined with tens of thousands of
ordinary Britons paying their respects. Largely, the ideological gloves were
laid aside for that day. At the service in St. Paul's Cathedral, it was not her
political accomplishments that were remembered, but her personal character, her
warmth and human kindness, her humor and her sense of duty.
Even former Liberal Democrat leader Lord
Ashdown, certainly no fan of Thatcher's leadership, described her as "the
greatest prime minister of our day." In its editorial following Margaret
Thatcher's death, the Daily Telegraph summarized just why Lord Ashdown's
assessment is deserved: "So signal was the Iron Lady's character that she
would have been a giant in any age...She may have divided opinion, and
occasionally even outraged it, but she lifted this nation from decline and
despair, and restored it to success, influence and prosperity. It is hard to
appreciate the scale of her achievements, and to acknowledge the depth of our
debt to her...lf Britain is still Great, it is because of this greatest of
Britons. "
— Dana Huntley
•

On the Road
Brave

IN THE SKIRL OF THE BAGPIPES and the twirl
of the kilt, Scotland embodies a unique and ancient culture. Scotland The Brave
is a panoramic discovery of this distinct and dramatic kingdom of northern
Britain. Here is an itinerary that can be enjoyed equally well by driving or
taking the train. By train, take a Britrail Freedom of Scotland Pass
(www.britrail.com) and jump on and off the train at will.
Day 1
Welcome to Aberdeen
There
is no rule that says every trip has to begin in London. Jump right into the
north of Scotland with a short connecting flight up to Aberdeen. Affluent with
the North Sea oil industry, and commercial hub of northeast Scotland, Aberdeen
makes a great place to recuperate from the journey and acclimate to Scotland.
The airport is just seven miles north of the central city. It's a 15-minute
taxi ride, or a 30minute bus ride. Stay downtown and explore the neighborhood.
Of course, there's a full range of hotel options. You can begin with the
accommodation directory at www.aberdeen-grampian.com, which has complete
information for the Aberdeen visitor. It will probably be an early night
tonight in any event.
Day
2 Explore the Granite City
Take
the day sightseeing in Aberdeen (the city of 100,000 roses—in season). There's
Old Aberdeen and St. Machar's Cathedral, fortified during the turbulent 14th
century, and Brig o' Balgownie. Cobblestoned Shiprow and the Victorian dockland
adjacent to the River Dee. Perhaps the shops along Union Street, a visit to
16th-century Provost Skene's House, or a walk in Union Terrace Gardens enjoying
the city's passion for flowers. Not to be missed any time of the year, however,
are the Winter Gardens at Duthie Park that are the city's crowning glory—one of
the largest indoor gardens in Europe.
Day 3
Across the Grampian Line
By road or rail today, our route leads
across Aberdeenshire and the Grampian Highlands. The scenery is terrific, and
traveling either way, you can plan to stop and explore. By road, it is the A96,
all the way to Inverness. By rail, it's the Grampian Line, with 10 trains a day
pro-
Like
many Aberdeenshire coastal towns,
Portsoy's
harbor has lost its fishing fleet.
viding
plenty of options. Travel light, and jump off at any of these places along the
way. Just leave your gear at the station while you take an hour or two to
explore. In Huntly, pause for a visit to the ruins of Huntly Castle, seat of
the powerful Gordon clan. In Keith, take in the historic whisky distillery of
Chivas Regal. In Elgin, visit the dramatic ruins of 13thcentury Elgin
Cathedral, where the Gordon clan chieftains can still claim burial rights.
Then, carry on to Inverness, "Capital of the Highlands," where the
River Ness meets the Moray Firth. Hotels, B&Bs and guest houses are
plentiful in a town that loves visitors.
Day 4 A Day Well-Spent in Inverness In the
morning, make an excursion to the nearby battlefield of Culloden Moor. Here in
1745, the Jacobite highland clans were defeated by the Hanoverian army. It is
one of the most moving battlefields in Britain—and the last battle fought on
British soil. Come afternoon, take a lake cruise
DANA HUNTLEY

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On the
Road
down the Caledonian Canal to the black,
mysterious waters of Loch Ness. You may not see Nessie, but it's easier to
believe after you've been on the lake. Take time, as well, to poke around the
shops. There's no better place to buy Scottish woolens. This is a tourist town,
and there are plenty of options for evening entertainment and local Highland
culture.
Day 5 Through the Grampian Mountains The
A9 and the rail tracks run parallel heading south through Aviemore and the
Cairngorm Mountains. Pitlochry makes a nice stop off. If you pause in the
"Gateway to the Highlands," you might pay a call at kiltmakers
MacNaughtons, which we featured in British Heritage, January 2012. At the
southern edge of the Grampians, where the River Tay opens into the Firth of Tay
sits the small, historic city of Perth. Great visits are St. John's Church and
the 1475 Fair Maid's House. Perth Museum and Art Gallery is among the oldest
museums in Scotland. The pretty town makes a good overnight stop.
From Perth, both road and rail routes lead
directly across the Kingdom of Fife to Edinburgh in just an hour or so. If time
permits, however, plan an easy detour to Stirling for a visit to Stirling
Castle, the traditional home to Scottish monarchs for centuries and a
fascinating repository of Scottish history. Just outside of town, you might
visit the dramatic Wallace Monument, as well.
When it is time to carry on, Edinburgh is
easily accessible within an hour. In summer, though, make sure you have
lodgings planned in advance. Whet your appetite for the city's attractions and
accommodation at www.edinburgh.org.
Day 7 The Athens of the North Scotland's
capital is a cornucopia of history and the arts. The Visitors Centre on
At
the top, the pagodas of Strathisla Distillery in Keith make Chivas Regal.
Above, the Gordon Arms in Huntly's marketplace sits just down the street from
the Gordon seat of Huntly Castle.
Princes
Street is one of the best. The place to begin exploring, however, is the Royal
Mile, with the fortress of Edinburgh Castle, St. Giles Cathedral and a dozen
great museums lining the cobbled route downhill to the Palace of Holyrood
House. Then, explore the 18th-century New Town with its beautiful Georgian
squares, sample the shopping along Princes Street, and perhaps climb Calton
Hill for incredible views of the city and out over the Firth of Forth. It would
certainly take several days to unpack Edinburgh, but not everyone has the same
amount of time. When yours is up, Edinburgh Airport and Waverley Station easily
connect you back to the real world, or on to further adventures in Britain.
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Around
the Town with Sandra Lawrence

Cabmens'
Shelters and a Bird on My Head

THERE'S NO DOUBT ABOUT IT—the recession in
Britain is, like the truly unpleasant weather we've had for months on end now,
biting hard. Shops are shutting, events scaling down and long-established
traditions struggling. Only the very wealthy are able to continue exactly as
they were, but that doesn't mean the rest of us spend every night watching TV
(despite the ice, snow and gales outside).
A perhaps unexpected reply to an austerity
pinching like old corns has been a burst of creativity, a fresh interpretation
in the boundaries of entertainment to create concepts that use spaces hitherto
unexplored, art forms mashed up and refashioned into something truly different,
and times of day that 'til now haven't been used.
Take
The Hippodrome, for example. Slap, bang in the middle at Leicester Square, this
once-august theater was reinvented into a casino last year, firmly in the Vegas
mode. Slot machines and roulette tables do little for me, but I am a firm fan
of the fabulous supperclub upstairs in the Matcham Room; I wrote a few months
ago about seeing singer Julian Ovenden there. But this is a 24-hour venue and
it seemed a shame not to use the small hours, too. They're trying out all
manner of entertainments—cabaret, burlesque, alternativecircus—and something
that really appealed to me, a dance night reminiscent of the clubs of the 1930s
and 40s. Trumpeter Jay Phelps, crazy for the music of Duke Ellington and his
ilk, has created an intimate dance band that is at once authentic and fresh for
a night known as Jay's Jitter Jive. His singer, Lauren Dalrymple, reminded me
of all the great Jazz divas of the age without aping any of them—she's her own
woman and I loved her for her originality. My pal Simon Selmon and his dance
partner of the London Swing Dance Society, who hold regular lindyhop classes
throughout the city, were there to demonstrate moves, and to dance with guests
throughout the evening. I was entranced. And yes, of course I danced.
The whole idea of the evening is that it's
late. The set didn't start until 11 p.m., which, given London's creaking tube
system, does present a slight issue of the journey home afterwards. There's
talk of trying to keep the tubes open longer, though that's hard because the
system's so old they need all the downtime they can get for maintenance. In the
meanwhile, for anyone outside Zone One, like me, a black cab is a pricey
option. No one should ever take a non-pre-booked minicab and driving in central
London is a nightmare, which leaves night buses. I hadn't taken one for years;
they have something of a reputation, but that evening I thought I'd try the N
1, which goes from Tottenham Court Road direct to the bottom of my road in
Greenwich. I came to the conclusion that the bad rep is undeserved. My journey
was clean, quiet and unthreatening, largely shared with chefs, waiters and West
End musicians knocking off from work. My particular bus runs half-hourly
throughout the night. I have since talked with other people about their
experiences and they largely agree that, perhaps with the odd
Saturdayevening-drunks exception, night buses aren't the scary no-go zones they
used to be. If you're ever caught out, they are a serious alternative option to
the scarily expensive-after-IO p.m. black cabs.

•

I
CONFESS TO IMPINGING on London cabbies in another way this month, too (I DO
love them, honest, Guv!). I have always adored the little Cabmens' Shelters
you'll see dotted around town. Looking a bit like grand garden sheds, it's easy
to walk straight past these adorable examples of Victorian street furniture
without even noticing them. They were built between 1885 and 1914 by The
Cabmen's Shelter Fund, as a place where hansom cab drivers could stop off and
enjoy a cup of tea and a meal away from the elements. Of course, in those days
taxis were horse driven, and the shelters still have rails for hitching ponies
while the cabbies were inside. Of the 61 shelters built, only 13 remain now.
You can find them all over town, from Chelsea Embankment to Temple Place,
Hanover Square to Grosvenor Gardens and, perhaps incredibly, they are still
used for their original purpose. Until recently they have been strictly
cabbies-only, but recently a few of them have quietly started serving the
public. As soon as I heard that, of course, I had to visit one and a bunch of
us descended on the Russell Square shelter one lunchtime, slightly nervous. We
thought we might only get as far as the little hatch that serves take-out, but
on shyly enquiring if we could sit-in, we found ourselves inside the closest I
have ever come to a TARDIS, with a tiny kitchen at one end, bench-seats and
formica tables the other. The Russell Square hut has recently been spruced up,
but some of the older ones are covered in memorabilia and photos. Excellent
greasy meals of the full English breakfast variety and giant mugs of tea were
dispensed for less than the price of a pint. I am told that a lady takes over
in the evenings serving Thai food. I am definitely going back.
The West End might be enjoying a Golden
Age, but so are its prices, and much as I love to go to the big-hitter shows, I
am glad that they are currently being rivalled by some exciting fringe
productions pushing boundaries in both performance style and venue. I have been
to two "immersive productions this month, as different
from each other as you could get, but fascinating in their own way. The first,
In The Beginning There Was The End, was held in a labyrinth of disused
laboratories in the bowels of Somerset House on the Strand. In very small
groups, the audience entered a freakish world of "weird stuff," where
actors in lab coats welcomed us to the public face of a fictitious top-secret
scientific facility clearly hiding more than it was showing. Just as we were
part way through the "public tour" by what I can only describe as
Stepford Scientists, the lights went out and things started to go very wrong. A
wall fell away and we found ourselves in the areas the authorities didn't want
us to see: experiments getting out of hand, inventions veering out of control,
robots developing minds of their own and a mass-walkout of employees for
undisclosed reasons. It was quite baffling—but fascinating, too, and a great example
of theater companies working with the tough times to find new audiences and new
spaces.
As soon as I heard about The Salon Project
at the Barbican's Pit Theatre, I knew I had to be a part of it. A couple of
months before the event, spectators get an email requesting their measurements.
On arrival, each member of the audience is dressed in a costume specifically
designed for them; their hair and make up is created by an army of backstage
artists as they are transformed into turn-of-the-last-century salon guests.
They are then shown into the grand lounge of the gracious salonniere, given a
sparkling glass of fizz and enveloped in an evening of fin de siecle
entertainment with a modern twist. Talks from the great minds of the
day—different every evening, I understand—which, although perhaps discussing 2
Ist-century topics, are very much in the style of the grand salons of the past.
Tableaux, music, interpretive dance and earnest conversation with fellow guests
followed, under the gentle glow of chandeliers, the gleam of age-spotted
mirrors and the slightly ominous chiming of the clock, reminding us that the
great age of Victorian/Edwardian salon culture had a very rude awakening.
If I am completely honest, the best bit
about the evening was the dressing up. There was much excitement backstage for
my costume as someone had decided to give me a hat finished with an entire
stuffed bird, that the crew had all been eyeing up. Spending the evening with a
bird on my head, some rather alarming distinctly green makeup and looking like
a cross between Morticia Adams and Lady Bracknell was marvellous fun, though I
confess that when that clock finally chimed for carriages, I was rather relieved
to take the hat off. I had a headache from the sheer weight of it the entire
next day. Untitled Projects, who presented the evening, haven't decided whether
to repeat it yet, but given the entire run sold out within days of going on
sale, I expect it to return and I will go to anything else they produce.
I COULD NOT CONSIDER this month's column
complete without mentioning the extraordinary exhibition Life and Death—
Pompeii and Herculaneum at the British Museum. Featuring artifacts, murals and
even one or two of those haunting casts of the unfortunates who lost their
lives in the ancient disaster, the exhibition focuses on the human, everyday
world that these Roman citizens enjoyed. I've been to both sites and had feared
I might be replicating the experience. But it was completely different, with
carefully curated objects taking us on a journey through the streets, houses
and family lives of Pompeii's doomed populace, citizen, slave and freedman
alike in an alternative way. The most intimate of objects, from personal
grooming items and paintings from the bedroom, through a child's crib (found,
tragically, with baby and its comfort-blanket inside, though thankfully not
displayed as such) to jewellery found on the people themselves, this is
emotional stuff in a way that starts as a slight ache in the heart and ends as
a feeling of true poignancy to the soul. New discoveries are constantly being
made at Pompeii, but human pain has not altered in 2,000 years.
Phew. Next time I have ambitions to get
very chocolaty indeed, tickets for a West End show and plans for a Royal picnic
out of town.

TOP
LEFT: SANDRA LAWRENCE; RIGHT-. COURTESY OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM                                                                                SEPTEMBER
2013 BRITISH HERITAGE • 21
 Sceptered Isle with Editor Dana Huntley

IF ROBERT BROWNING HAD SEEN this April in
England, he probably would not have bothered to have any "Home Thoughts
from Abroad. "
Following last year's wettest summer in a
century, it was a cold winter in Britain, culminating in the coldest March
since 1962. Late in the month, blizzards dropped 8 t012 inches of snow across
the high grounds from the Chilterns to the Cairngorms. The weather didn't
brighten and warm sufficiently to eliminate the snow cover for several weeks.
I landed at Heathrow the day after Easter
for my spring editorial adventures. In the next fortnight I never saw the
temperature reach 50. There are few Aprils I've not been in Britain over the
last 30 years, and I never saw it quite like this. From daffodils to flowering
hedges, the spring was a full month behind.
One consequence of the late snow and cold
was both sad and frustrating. March and early April is lambing time. Upland
farmers in Wales, the Peaks, Cumbria and elsewhere lost thousands of lambs,
frozen in the snow. European Union directives demand that such dead animals not
be buried on the land, but taken elsewhere for more, eh, sanitary disposal. Not
surprisingly, that supra-national regulation has created yet another furor
between Britain's country people and the EU.
My first destination was the Oxfordshire
village of Bampton, just a few miles south on Witney. Out the M4 to Junction
14, I drove through the chilly afternoon up the east side of the Cotswolds.
Tiny Bampton is where the village scenes in Downton Abbey have been filmed; I
was curious.
It's all there: the cottage hospital, the
parish church and Mrs. Crawley's house. I took a room at The Romany Inn, at the
end of Church View, the street where village exteriors were shot and various
characters strolled on errands. Of course, that street scene looks very
different without the cars, satellite dishes and contemporary signage. There
was no one else at the inn that night, but Mike, the landlord, is expecting a
busy summer.
The next morning I turned west to Northleach
and took the principal route north through the heart of the Cotswolds, the
A429. Along the route lie those painfully picturesque tourist towns that
through the season are lined with coaches of sightseeing visitors:
Bout-ton-on-the-Water, Stowon-the-Wold and Moreton-in-Marsh. It's easy to
overlook that they are so popular because they are charming and photogenic, and
filled with clever shops and antiques
On a mid-April morning,
the Cumbrian peaks above Thirlmere were as cold as they look.
and beautiful settings for coffee or
lunch. It was market day in Moreton. Among the colorful stalls, the music of a
street performer rang clear. A young Jamaican was playing the steel drum—a
stirring rendition of "How Great Thou Art." He grinned broadly for
the camera.
The A429 led up to
Stratford-uponAvon, where I digressed to visit the Elizabethan manor of
Charlecote Park. The story has it that Shakespeare as a youth was nicked for
poaching deer in the park. The deer herd is still there, but now kept discretely
behind fencing.
After a stay in Warwick and visits to
Kenilworth Castle and Canons Ashby, I headed north. As a general rule, I avoid
the motorways as much as possible. They are strictly for Point A to Point B,
and if you're driving 70 or anything slower, you do want to be in the slow
lane. This was one of those occasions, though, and the 1/140, 1M5 and M6 had me
in Cumbria in three hours (not generally in the slow lane).
I'd never routed from the Cumbrian
peninsulas north up the back side of the Lake District; it had seemed a great
drive on paper. The A595 from Ulverston north along the coast, however, is an A
road purely by honorary designation. It took more three hours to traverse the
60 miles up to Whitehaven. Admittedly, I dawdled and took the photo ops.
Scafell Pike (England's tallest mountain at just over 3,000 feet) was bathed in
snow, as were all the Lakeland peaks.
I settled for the night in the market town
of Cockermouth at the Trout Hotel, next to the house where William Wordsworth
and his sister Dorothy were born and spent their childhoods. Wordsworth, of
course, became the ultimate Lake Poet, returning to the Lakes as a successful
writer and personality. The next morning, heading south, I stopped in Grasmere
where Wordsworth and his family are buried in St. Oswald's churchyard. It's
just down the street from Dove Cottage, which he shared with his sister for
many years.
Keswick, Bowness and Windermere teem with
visitors in summer—and in a warm springtime. Yet even with that springtime
nowhere to be found, there were visitors aplenty in the popular Lakeland
centers. It was time to head east. From Kendall, I crossed the Pennines at
Garsdale Head and into the Yorkshire Dales. Did I mention that it was cold?
Four layers of clothes, two of heavy wool, were not enough to keep out the
chill of temps in the 30s with a stiff and steady 15-20 mph wind off the North
Sea. Snow blanketed in the craggy hills in every direction.
Wensleydale. Longest and most famous of
the Yorkshire Dales, Wensleydale is not only a rich agricultural valley, but a
scene of much history. Back in the 15th century, its lord and master was King
Richard Ill. It was indeed Richard Ill that drew me on this trip. The ill-fated
(but newly famous) king grew up here and had his power base at Middleham
Castle, which gives its name to the village just south of Leyburn.
I put up at the White Swan Inn on
Middleham's cobbled square. From my room I could see the three pubs and village
store on the square, and the remaining turrets and ramparts of the castle
looming above. The clop-clop of horses on the cobbles woke me the next morning.
Middleham Castle may have spawned the town, but that's yesterday's news for the
folk who live and work
DANA HUNTLEY
Il'lL
here. Middleham's more contemporary claim
to fame is as the racing capital of the North. In the farms and paddocks that
encircle the stone village, more than 500 racehorses are being raised and
trained. Throughout the morning, in groups of three or four, horses were being
ridden and led through the square to their exercise runs across the bare,
surrounding hills.
A few miles south, I stopped to visit
Jervaulx Abbey, one of Yorkshire's great Cistercian monasteries. The manicured
ruins are magnificent, and held in private hands. There's an admission charge
of £3, but no one will take your money. There's an honesty box at the end
of the walk. Then, it was on to Masham, home to two of Yorkshire's great
breweries (Theakston's and Black Sheep), and Ripon, cathedral city of the
Dales.
At Thirsk, I visited the Thirsk Museum,
just across the street from James Herriot's place, and then headed still east
into the Yorkshire Wolds. I did make it to the North Sea coast at Scarborough
and south to Bridlington. In truth, though, those seaside towns have little to
recommend them and aren't somewhere to hang out—even
The Oxfordshire village of
Bampton, just a few miles south of Witney may look quite recognizable as
"Downton" to fans of Downton Abbey. That's "Mrs. Crawley's House"
next to the church; left, the small village library was filmed as the cottage
hospital.
in
warm weather.
At Malton, however, I paid a call at Eden
Camp. A World War Il POW camp for Italian and German prisoners, Eden Camp is
largely intact. Described as a "modern history theme museum," the
camp today is a comprehensive presentation of the war both abroad and on the
home front. The prison huts tell the narrative from "The Rise of Adolf
Hitler" to the reunion celebrations of veterans years after the war. Throughout
the site, artifacts from field artillery to Anderson shelters bring the
conflict to life.
Going from warm car to blowing chill and
back 30 times a day for a week does take its toll. By the time I got to York, I
was in sorry shape, and happy to turn in the car after 900 miles. It was in the
York Visitor's Centre the next morning that I heard the news of Margaret
Thatcher's death. That is its own story, of course. Mine did continue with
errands in York and a train to London. The travel adventures that I
précis and share, as regular readers know, return again as features over
the next several issues. Bronchitis notwithstanding, British travel is always
rewarding, and I do always love to have British Heritage readers along!
SEPTEMBER 2013 BRITISH HERITAGE • 23

Sea
Clif
North York Moors
Where
timeless fishing villiages tumble to the shore
STORY
AND PHOTOS BY JIM HARGAN

VER THE MILLENNIA the North Sea has
sliced off the eastern edge of the North York Moors as with a knife, exposing
its hard rocky core for all to see—33 miles of continuous pinkish-tan cliffs
never less than 100 feet high and sometimes more than 600 feet. For the most
part they are nearly devoid of settlement; empty grassland separates widely
scattered farmsteads, the cliff-tops reachable only by the Cleveland Way long
distance path. Tiny villages shoehorn into niches in the cliffs, their painted
stone cottages terracing up alleys formed by steps and sidewalks. Part of the
North York Moors National Park since 1952, this line of cliffs and its villages
remains in pristine condition.
There is one exception to the general
emptiness of the cliff regions: Whitby, a crowded little town of 13,000 set in
a river gorge that slashes through the halfway point of the cliffs. Its busy
streets line a wide harbor and cut into the cliff-sides, cobblestone surfaces
climbing past centuries-old cottages. Above it all sits the ruins of a medieval
abbey, built to commemorate a much earlier abbey, where in 664 the British
churches accepted Roman (rather than Celtic) rules. The original abbey was
sited here as protection from Vikings, a failure as it turned out, as the
160-foot cliffs, although intimidating from the sea, could be easily scaled via
harbor paths. Steps still climb the cliffs from the town center, while sand
beaches stretch to its west under cliffs only slightly lower.
Whitby's original site, chosen for
protection against sea-faring freebooters while maintaining access to the sea,
reflected an age when nearly all commerce was seaborne but governments were
still too weak to protect either this commerce or its lesser ports-of-call. It
was for this reason that the fishing village of Fylingdales was founded on the
cliff-tops rather than the base where they kept their

Like many villages along
the North Yorkshire coast, Robin Hood's Bay (below) tumbles down the cliffs to
the North Sea. Above, the fishing harbor of Staithes huddles in what appears to
be a precarious position beneath the rocks.
boats, a half-mile walk down 200-foot
cliffs. Although the village's medieval church remains at the old village's
location, the villagers felt safe enough by Tudor times to move right down to
the cliff bottom, building their cottages in rocky shelves cut by a little
beck.
They called their new settlement Robin
Hood's Bay, and
At Robin Hood's Bay, the
local museum flies an old village banner.

told
a story of how the Nottinghamshire hero had driven out the pirates and brought
safety to the fisher-folk. They built solid stone cottages set into the
cliff-sides around the harbor, reachable by a maze of stone paths and steps.
The sturdy construction of the cottages and village indicate a higher standard
of living than you'd expect from people living off the sale of fish—a sign that
the smuggling did not completely stop when the pirates left. There's a pub and
hotel by the harbor, several B&Bs, gift shops and tea rooms scattered about
its middle terraces, and a wonderful local museum hidden way up on its highest
shelf. The museum, set in a Victorianera mortuary, is filled with local history
memorabilia on shipping, fishing and smuggling, as well as the colorful banner
of the Robin Hood and Little John Friendly Society. The cliffs, easily reached
from the harbor-side pub, are noted for their fossils and rocky tidal pools.
Access to the town is strictly by foot from the cliffs above.
To the northwest some 14 miles, the
village of Staithes has a similar history and a similar situation. Here a tiny
beck has cut a substantial canyon through the cliffs, and the fishing village
climbs up its near-vertical south wall, and then jumps across the stream on a
foot bridge to fill a narrow shelf beneath its north wall. The sizeable village
contains seven restaurants and cafes (including three pubs) as well as gift
shops and a gallery specializing in the work of the Staithes Group, artists who
found inspiration here in the late 19th century. As with Robin Hood's Bay, the
surrounding cliff bases are easily reached from the town center, and are known
for their ammonite fossils, which resemble chambered nautiluses. Two miles to
the west (along the Cleveland Way) are the Boulby Cliffs, at 660 feet the
tallest in England. While you can drive into the village and drop someone off,
you cannot park there; once again, you must park up the hill and walk down.
If you want to drive down the cliff to
park in a village center, visit Runswick Bay, two miles southeast of Staithes.
It's smaller than the other village and with fewer facilities, but still
features the trim stone cottages, whitewashed and grouped tightly around

SEPTEMBER    BRITISH
HERITAGE • 27

All
You Need to Know
North
Yorks Moors National Park covers a huge inland area (about 550 square miles) as
well as the coastal cliffs. Its website, www.northyorkmoors.org.uk, is very
visitor-oriented. The entire cliff area except for Skinningrove and Saltburn is
governed by Scarborough Borough Council, whose Tourism Bureau sponsors the
website wvvw.discoveryorkshirecoast.com.
Opening times and admission information
for Scarborough Castle, run by English Heritage, can be found at
www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/scarborough-castle.
For Staithes and other nearby cliff
villages, try the excellent and informative website www.visitstaithes.com, run
by the rural English equivalent of a local chamber of commerce. For Robin
Hood's Bay, www.robin-hoods-bay.co.uk is a good source of visitor information.
The Robin Hood's Bay Museum can be found at museum.rhbay.co.uk. For the
Cleveland

Ironstone
Museum in Skinningrove, visit www.ironstonemuseum.co.uk.
narrow paths and steps. It also has a substantial sand
beach about 100 yards south of the parking lot. Nearby are the ruins of Port
Mulgrove, a substantial iron mining settlement in the 19th century, but now
nothing more than abandoned breakwaters. It's on National Trust lands, at the
base of a 300-foot cliff that must be negotiated on a steep, rough path. It is
said to offer the finest fossil hunting in the area, despite (or perhaps
because of) its inaccessibility. Look for gray nodules and split them open with
a hammer; you might just find a complete ammonite.
nlike Port Mulgrove, the mining town
of Skinningrove remains intact and populous, snug in its gorge near the
northwest end of the cliffs. Its works did not close until the 1970s, and the
town has the feel of a Victorian industrial settlement down on its luck rather
than a Tudor fishing and smuggling village. What it lacks in restored
quaintness, however, it makes up in easy parking, nearly no tourists and fine
cliff access. The town is worth a stop for its excellent mining museum, the
Cleveland Ironstone Museum, where an iron mine and its entrance tunnel have
been repaired and opened to the public.
Early iron mining villages such as
Skinningrove, Port Mulgrave and Staithes relied on their ports to get their ore
to markets, but by the late 19th century this wasn't cutting it. A railroad was
built following the cliffs, about a half-mile inland—actually two railroads,
the Whitby, Redcar and Middlesborough Union for the north half, and the
Scarborough and Whitby Railroad from Whitby southward. The latter, never
profitable because of its steep grades and sharp turns, is now a paved bicycle
path known as the Cinder Track. Just outside Whitby it crosses the valley of
the River Esk on a brick viaduct carried 120 feet above the river by 13 slim
brick arches, whose broad views were praised by Bram Stoker in Dracula. From
there it twists and turns through the empty farmlands above the cliffs, passing
Robin Hood's Bay at five miles and reaching its literal and figurative high
point at 10 miles—Ravenscar, atop 600 foot cliffs.
The Victorian era railroad owners
expected Ravenscar to be a big hit among tourists, what with its astonishing
views, and developed it accordingly. Alas, English holiday-makers, who love
their beaches above even the finest views, did not appreciate
The
wide powder beaches of Saltburn Sands spread out beneath the moors and cliffs,
and Saltburn Pier sticks its tongue out at the cold North Sea.

Saltburn-by-the-Sea
Staithes•
Runswick
A171
The North
Yorkshire
Coast

Runswick Bay
Al 74
Whitby
Robin Hood's Bay'
Robin Hood's
Ravenscar •

A171

A169
Scarborough •

having
to climb a 600-foot cliff path to reach a stony shingle, and ignored it in
droves. Today, it's a scatter of 19th-century urban architecture among the
fields, including a railway station and hotel (now a tea shop). The views,
however, remain stunning, and unlike the slightly higher cliffs at Boulby,
easily reached by auto; the National Trust maintains a visitors' center here.
Fine
little cities anchor the ends of the North York Moors cliffs. On the northwest
it's Saltburn-by-the-Sea, a classic seaside town with a wide sand beach. A
mile's walk from the beach leads you to the top of 300-foot cliffs, and these
cliffs frame all views over the broad, flat sands. The attractive Victorian
town sits atop its own 100-foot cliff, linked to the beach by a gravity-powered
inclined railway; the top car has its large tank filled with water, whose
weight causes it to sink down the steep track and pull the lower car up.
Scarborough,
however, is the crown jewel of the cliffs of the North York Moors. A lively
little city of some 50,000, it guards the southern end of the Jurassic
formations with a formidable castle atop a cliff-ringed promontory 280 feet
above the town. Its keep survives, as well as its gatehouse and most of its
walls, all built of fine golden stone with wide views over the town. The castle
cliffs protrude almost into the harbor, with paved paths leading steeply down.
Here, pleasure craft and fishing boats bob at anchor inside a tidal harbor
marked by a whitewashed stone lighthouse, lined with buildings that alternate
between distinguished history and gaudy vulgarity. Beyond that the Victorian
city center perches 200 feet above spectacular sand beaches. This marks the
southern end of the North York Moors, although a differing geology continues to
form sea cliffs from younger Cretaceous rocks for another 20 miles.
At
Scarborough's center you will find The Rotunda, one of Britain's finest science
museums, founded and designed in 1829 by the great geologist William Smith. A
canal surveyor, Smith had pioneered the principles by which strata are
sequenced by way of fossil groups, and had used his principles to construct the
first geological map of England in 1815. The museum now proudly celebrates his
achievements with displays carefully restored from their 19thcentury originals,
including Smith's original cross-section of Yorkshire's cliffs ringing the top
of the cylindrical main building.
                                             SEPTEMBER
     BRITISH HERITAGE • 29

Voted the nation's Food Capital in 2011,
Lincolnshire is the UK's largest potato producer, biggest cereal production
area and the secondlargest sugar beet producer, too. Its farmers grow
cauliflowers, varieties of cabbage, sprouts, leeks, shallots, onions, carrots,
parsnips, salad onions, herbs and lettuces—which all help to account for nearly
30 percent of the nation's field vegetable crops.
But what is it that makes Lincolnshire the
premier food-producing county in England?
"The primary issues are the quality
of soils and the county's benign climate," says grower Mark Tinsley, who
chairs the Lincolnshire Forum for Agriculture and Horticulture. In this
partnership between the public sector and farming, horticulture and food and
drink industries work together to address the issues which affect them all.
"By the quality of soils, we mean its
workability, lack of stone and its fertility—quite a lot historically would
have been fenland or marshland," Tinsley explains. "The moisture
retentiveness of these soils is the critical issue; they do not give up
moisture easily—and therefore the crops don't suffer stress. "
The real secret to its success is its
grade I silt land; Lincolnshire has the country's greatest proportion, with the
majority situated around England's largest estuary—The Wash—located in the
southeast corner, on the Norfolk border. Here a series of dykes, not hedgerows
separate the giant, flat fields, making them ideal for crop cultivation—in
particular potatoes.
Several different varieties flourish on
these fertile plains, before making their way to prepacking facilities, markets
and restaurants, and, of course, our numerous fish and chip shops. But why is
this
Head Pumpkin
Lincolnshire is also the
home to Europe's largest pumpkin farm. David Bowman grows 3 to 4 million of the
giant veg each year on fields around Spalding, supplying supermarkets up and
down the country
due to Lincolnshire's fine
silt soils, which are ideal for growing the gourd. Every year his home town hosts
a vibrant pumpkin festival, culminating in a torch-lit parade featuring a
pumpkin carriage and hundreds of schoolchildren carrying their homemade Jack
O'Lanterns—all carved from pumpkins donated by farmer Bowman.
Pick a pumpkin, from among
several million in the patch.
vegetable crop so successful? The complex
landscape owes its fertility to the simple fact that much of it remained
underwater for many centuries.
Numerous civilizations have played a part
in shaping this rural landscape over the years. The Romans were the first to
attempt to control water levels by building a sea wall along the inner Fen
margin. In the Middle Ages, the monks followed in their footsteps, with their
own attempts to set up a comprehensive drainage system. The most profound change
came in the 17th century, when Dutch engineers straightened the wayward rivers,
creating new linear links and sluicing them against tidal inflow.
Today the fens drain toward The Wash;
characteristically the low-lying levels rarely pass the 10-meter contour,
typically varying by little more than by one or two meters over many miles.
Much of Lincolnshire remains below sea level, relying on pumped drainage and
the control of sluices at high and low tides to maintain agricultural
viability. Nevertheless, food and farming are big business; estimated to
contribute around £1 billion annually to its economy, in terms of both
value and employment, the sector is the county's third biggest, employing more
than 32,000 people.
World-class packing and processing
businesses support the food production. The majority of the agricultural output
remains in the UK, apart from some wheat and oilseeds that are exported
ABOVE AND LEFT: ALISON PRARL, LINCOLNSHIRE NFU; RIGHT:
DAVID BOWMAN

4,
to Europe, the Middle East and
Africa, says Alison Pratt, of the National Farmers Union. Spalding and Boston
are home to the main production, processing, packing and distribution
facilities; most of the produce goes to retailers and some to multinational
companies such as Bakkavor, which produce salads and coleslaws for the
supermarket chains.
Nothing is left to
chance, however, and the county constantly works hard to promote its wares. In
2005 the Select Lincolnshire project was set up in a government drive to ensure
UK farming maintained a sustainable future. With financial backing from
Lincolnshire County Council, the membership-based project incorporates every
level of agricultural business, from small cheese-makers to distribution
companies and huge vegetable producers, as well as packers employing hundreds
of staff. To help promote a strong, recognizable brand, it showcases the range
and quality of Lincolnshire produce.
Lincolnshire's
farming operations are diverse. Statistics from Defra (the Department for
Environment, Food and Rural Affairs), show there are 4,245 farms across
Lincolnshire, from one-man bands on small-holdings, to family firms made up of
fathers and sons (some dating back several generations), to massive
corporations working thousands of acres of land, both owned and rented.
The
average farm is around 320 acres, and 85

Lincolnshire is England's market basket, producing 30 percent of the
  country's vegetable crops.
Floral Bulbs
Flowers are another important industry in Lincolnshire, which grows
  almost 40 percent of the UK's bulb flowers (particularly daffodils). In
  Holbeach, Taylor's Bulbs is the countrys largest bulb supplier, although
  there are numerous other bulb and early-cut daffodil growers in the south of
  the county
Lincolnshire's growers raise everything from tulips, lilies,
  delphiniums, gladioli, sunflowers, alliums, asters, dahlias and foxtail
  lilies, both under glass and in the open, for the wholesale markets and for
  direct sale to retailers such as supermarket chains M&S and Waitrose.
More 200,000 acres raise bright yellow rapeseed, known familiarly as
  canola oil.

percent of the land is farmed in
holdings greater then 250 acres. Lincolnshire growers produce around 540,000
acres of wheat, grown on 39 percent of the county's arable land (12 percent of
the entire country's). Oilseed rape is another big crop; 202,000 acres are
dedicated to its production, much of which is being developed for nonfood use
such as biodiesel and bioethanol.
The ruler-straight
fen lands are also ideally suited to pea production. Grower co-operative Fen
Peas Ltd. was formed in 1968 by four farmers in the Boston area, who initially
grew 600 acres, operating five viners, 12 hours' a day. Today it grows 5,200
acres of peas countywide— from Waddington in the north, Holbeach in the east,
to Market Deeping in the south and Grantham in the east—supplying companies
specializing in both frozen and canning peas; all from a grower base of 78
farmer members, using four modern harvesters.
Sown from early February
to mid-May and harvested mid-June to mid-August, the co-op produces garden peas
(small to medium-sized and produced to a high quality, which once harvested are
frozen in less than 150 minutes to ensure they are processed in their prime),
Petit Pois and other organic and economy varieties. The co-op says the
Lincolnshire soil is perfect as its fineness allows for fast drainage, which
prevents water logging.
During the past
few years, the unruly climate has done little to help Lincolnshire's farmers.
The wettest summer for a century in 2012 left many crops decimated with acute
shortages in some areas. Nonetheless, no matter what Lincolnshire veg graces
your plate, the taste will be second to none.
                SEPTEMBER
     BRITISH HERITAGE • 33

LONDON ON THE MOVE:
Getting About
the City Like a Native
On one
of the world's great public transport systems you move
around London at the swipe of an Oyster
BY JAMES GRAHAM
2533

The
completion of theHE FIRST-TIME VISITOR to London, London Overgroundeven the
hardy regular, can easily hail one train network means
of the city's
iconic black cabs to take them that locals and visitors
across the metropolis. Although cabs are

alike can now get

convenient,
  they can easily isolate the visitor from the

around metropolitan
London without having

vibrancy
  and secrets of the city. Forced to travel at the

to
  travel through the

speed
  of congested traffic, a black cab insulates the vis-

congested central city.

itor from those senses that can come alive in
  London. Public transport, however, takes the visitor behind the curtain of
  the city as it unfolds around the clock.
Admittedly, public
  transport in London can be be-

wildering.
This is partly because the Transport for London (TfL) maps of Underground and
bus routes have the complexity of a Jackson Pollock masterpiece. Factor in
river services, trains, a newly-established cable car connection, and hailing a
cab can suddenly seem a very attractive and obvious solution. Bypassing public
transport, though, visitors miss two of the most recent innovations to cut
through the spaghettilike complexity of moving around the capital: the London
Overground and the Oyster Card.
The five-year old Overground, not to be
confused with the 150-year-old Underground, is the new kid on the railroad
block and has opened up much of London to easier access. Late last year, the
service was crowned with a "round London" service, a rail
"M25" that echoes the advantages offered by the
36 BRITISH HERITAGE SEPTEMBER 2013
1M25 expressway in getting around the
wider swathes of outer London.
Launched with the
tagline "London's new train set," the 54 miles of route are worth
exploring in themselves. The routes utilize distinctive orange and
whiteliveried rolling stock and allow passengers to visit the outer reaches of
the city without going through the crowded center city. The trains are also
fully air-conditioned, for those rare English summer days that threaten the
mercury.
Running from
Surrey Quays to Clapham Junction to complete the circle, passengers from South
and
South West London can now
easily reach Canada Water, Wapping and Stratford without traversing the center.
Passengers in the other direction can access North London destinations from
Clapham Junction, avoiding central London's congestion.
Take the
Overground for a number of attractions awkward to reach otherwise. Try the
Horniman Museum (Forest Hill), which illustrates the natural and cultural world
through world-class collections established by Victorian tea trader Frederick
Horniman. The Museum of Methodism (Shoreditch High Street) tells the history of
Methodism from John
Wesley to the present day, while the Freud
Museum (Hampstead Heath) is the last home of the founder of psychoanalysis.
©
TRANSPORT FOR LONDON
Swiping through
There may be a mystery as to the
derivation of its name, but Londoners now routinely ask each other if they have
"an oyster?" This is not, of course, a piscine inquiry into a bivalve
mollusc with a rough irregular shell; instead, it is the familiar manner in
which the locals have morphed the Oyster Card into everyday parlance.
In the decade since its launch, the
omnipresent "ping as the card is read on buses, tram
stops, Underground and train stations has become a background sound of London.
For the visitor the ping also represents a keen saving on some of the
eye-watering fares that face the non-Oyster holder, as well as the speed of
passing through stations and onto public transport without having to queue for
tickets.
Take an Underground journey between two
zone 1 stations without an Oyster and you pay £4.50. The same journey
with an Oyster costs £2.10. The card can be used on Underground,
Overground, bus, DLR, tram, cable car, some river services and national
railroad services within the six central London travel zones.
To ensure you pay the correct fare on
Tube, DLR, London Overground and National Rail services you must always touch
in on the yellow card reader at the start of your journey and touch out at the
end of the journey.

Arguably
  the most famous London icon,

the London Transport
  roundel welcomes

Twilight Zones

the
  traveler to some 270 stations on a 250-

Public transport in London is

mile
  network of rail lines. "The Tube"

based on a series of zones es-

originally referred to
  the deep tube lines

tablished in the 1970s. Travel-

compared
  with the "underground" system

ling within a zone is generally cheaper than crossing into a

of lines just below
  surface. The terms are

neighboring zone or passing

now interchangeable.

through one completely.

Many visitors may
  associate the Under-

Most West End and down-

ground with journeys on
  the Piccadilly line

town attractions such as the

to
  Heathrow and the West End. However,

Tower of London, Westminster

its extremities allow
  visitors to explore

and South Kensington are in

many
  charming parts of urban London,

Zones 1, and Dockland desti-

such as Richmond on the
  District line,

nations such as Canary Wharf

Harrow on the
  Metropolitan and Epping,

are in Zone 2. If your hotel is in

some 17 miles from
  central London, at the

central London, then a Zone 1

end of the Central
  line. There are 11 color-

and 2
  Travelcard will cover your travel. However, if you are stay-

coded
  Underground lines. Services run reg-

ing outside the tho zones, your

ularly from around 5
  a.m. to midnight.

ticket must include the fare

On the waterfront

to the
  center and it makes better sense to purchase a

Key
  to the redevelopment of London's

Zone I to 6 ticket.

A key advantage is that the cards can be charged with
Going Underground
abandoned docks in the 1980s was the building
of the Docklands Light Railway (DLR). This network of automated driverless
trains has been the foundation of the extraordinary development of Canary
Wharf. Visitors can take the DLR to visit Canary Wharf, the Cutty Sark and
maritime Greenwich, ExCel London, London City Airport or Woolwich Arsenal.
On the buses
London Buses manages one of the world's largest bus
networks. Approximately 7,500 iconic red buses carry

money at many
locations away from Underground, Overground
and railroad stations at some 4,000 Oyster Ticket Stops located across London
in newsagents and grocery stores as well as at Travel Information Centers.
Simply charge up the card and hit the network. Fares will be deducted every
time you swipe. Visitors to London can purchase the cards online prior to
travelling from the Visitor Oyster shop and at overseas sales agents such as
Visit Britain.

                                                                                SEPTEMBER
                   BRITISH HERITAGE • 37
UNDERGROUND
more
than 6 million passengers daily on a network serving 19,500 bus stops in the
capital.
London's much-loved Routemaster buses
were a major feature of the capital from the mid-1950s until 2005. Technology,
and the switch to one-person op-

Black cabs vs.
  Mini-cabs
It is more than
  just semantics: a black cab is a very different creature from a mini-cab. A
  black cab, which with modern advertising can often be every color except
  black, can be hailed from sidewalk or found waiting at a taxi rank outside
  popular locations such as railroad stations. Completely metered with fares
  set by City Hall, they are obliged to take passengers on journeys under six
  miles. Over that distance, it is at their discretion. There are currently
  around 2 1 ,000 black cabs in London.
A mini-cab cannot be hailed from
  the sidewalk and must be preordered. They are generally cheaper, but can be
  unmetered, so a fare must be agreed upon before the journey. Resist the
  temptation to get into a mini-cab you have not ordered; there are dangers
  involved in unlicensed vehicles.

eration, did away with the need for
  a conductor, which meant these icons of the cityscape were consigned to the
  scrap heap. However, such was the outcry that a small renovated fleet was
  reintroduced on sections of two tourist-friendly central London bus routes.
  Visitors can climb aboard the traditional buses on sections of routes 9 and
  15 between Tower Bridge and Kensington on two linking "heritage
  routes." The 9 runs between Kensington High Street and Trafalgar Square,
  and the 15 runs between Trafalgar Square and Tower Hill. Both services run
  approximately every 15-20 minutes, daily between 9:30 a.m. and 7 p.m. The
  entire route can be traveled, with a change at Trafalgar Square, in around 60
  to 90 minutes. Oyster Cards are accepted.
Travelcard
  vs. Oyster
A convenient alternative to the Oyster is the daily
  travelcard from TfL. Allowing unlimited travel through all public transport
  services in designated areas, they can be great value and make all-day
  exploring great fun. The best value in 2013 is the off-peak Zone 1-6 ticket
  which costs £8.90. A child's travelcard is £3.40. You pay
  £8.80 for a Zone 1-2 travelcard. For an extra lop, you have

 access to hundreds of extra
stations, lines and bus routes in the capital. Buy one for the peak period and
you will have to pay £16.40, so a few extra hours in bed will be a great
cost saving.
Taking to the river
Old Father Thames might drift leisurely
through London's center to the sea, but he provides an unexpectedly lively
means of getting about from a network
38 BRITISH HERITAGE SEPTEMBER 2013

of
piers from Richmond to the Thames barrier. These are not lazy tourist boats
that amble down the river, but vital commuter services that visitors can enjoy
to catch the real city and its workers from the bobbing surface of the river.
KPMG Thames
Clippers, the fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, provides high-speed
catamarans that leave the major piers on both sides of the river every 20
minutes with transport interchanges easily accessible from most piers. There is
10 percent off single tickets with Oyster on the Thames Clippers, while
travelcard holders get a third off single tickets. For the sightseer, the
company's River Roamer ticket allows passengers unlimited hop-on hop-off for a
day's travel from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday to Friday.
Cable
car
A curiosity of
London's public transport network, Emirates Air Line arrived on the scene to
provide an unlikely link over the Thames between the Greenwich peninsula, with
its entertainment hub of the 02 stadium, and east London. A year later, the
jury is still out on whether this is a valuable addition to London's transport
system or a £60 million politician's folly.
The UK's first
urban cable car takes passengers across the Thames seven days a week until 8
p.m. in winter and 9 p.m. in summer. Oyster cards receive a 25 perTRANSPORT
FOR LONDON

cent
discount on the adult fare. Adult single journeys cost £4.30. Taking
passengers to a height of 295 feet, the cables offer views back towards
Docklands on a journey of two-thirds of a mile. A streetcar named Croydon
On the edge of south London is the
capital's only tram system, a delightfully modern take on the Victorian tram.
Connecting Wimbledon through Croydon to Beckenham in Kent, the line runs
through pastoral scenery. Alight at Phipps Bridge to take in the beautiful
gardens at Morden Hall Park. Alternatively, visit Beckenham, a lovely Victorian
center.
Running
a railroad
London
has an extensive network of suburban railroads serving all suburbs and the
center from some 357 stations. Oyster Cards are accepted on most of the
services within the city. The trains are generally clean, fast and convenient
outside of the rush hours. Rail services generally operate from 5:30 a.m. to 1
a.m. during the week.
Unravelling
the knot

Friday to take
  advantage of quieter and cheaper (off

London Overground

peak)
  travel. Off peak travel is generally available all

trains
  sport a very

day on Saturdays,
  Sundays and Bank holidays.

distinctive
  orange and

Like great tidal
  movements, most commuters come

white
  liveried rolling

into
  London in the morning up to around 10 a.m.

stock—air-conditioned
  for rare summer days.

expect
  given the hour.

since 1988 there has
  been an

Public transport in
  London continues

explosion of rickshaws
  and

So
when should you travel on London's public transport? Like cities worldwide,
London has a rush-hour that is best avoided. Travel after 9:30 Monday to and
leave between 4 and 7 p.m. This traffic is almost exclusively into and out of
Zone 1 and Docklands. Travel in any other direction and you can find trains and
buses Rickshaws surprisingly emptier than you might On the streets of the West
End
to be a low crime environment. Cur- pedicabs, even
exotic Tuk Tuks from the Indian subcontinent. rently, more than 10 million
passengers
These
tourist transport methtravel on the TfL's public transport servods
really are to be avoided at ices each day with very few ever expe-all
costs. The spoilsport of the riencing or witnessing crime, which matter is that
they are unregu-
itself has seen an eight-year declinelated
and uninsured. These vesince the middle of the last decade. This hides are
unmetered and translates into a transport system that isclients
are at the mercy of opsafer than its equivalents in almost allerators
who knowingly charge other European cities. eye-watering fares.
Next time you are about to raise your arm
to hail that black cab, pull it down and make for the nearest bus top,
Underground or Overground station or DLR stop. You might end up seeing more of
London than you expected.

                                                                                SEPTEMBER
 BRITISH HERITAGE • 39
Richard
Burton:
THE VOICE OF WALES
How the Valleys Made the Voice and
the Man

A
Portrait Bench on the hillside between the old South Wales mining villages of
Cwmafan and Pontrhydyfen is a welcome place to sit and survey the mountainous
Afan Forest Park scenery. Ahead stand several cast-iron life-sized figures of
local boys made good, among them actor Richard Burton; to the right is an audio
post. Turn the handle and magic happens.
BY SIAN ELLIS
Out comes the most mellifluous,
gravelly-deep voice; inflected by a Welsh village childhood, burnt by smoke,
cultured by intellect. It's Burton reciting from Under Milk Wood, the
"Play for Voices" by his favorite poet and friend Dylan
Thomas.
Another handle-turn and

That's Richard Burton on
the right with two other "local lads who made good" from the Man
Valley.
BELOW: SIAN ELLIS; FACING
PAGE: DANA HUNTLEY
the
voice rages into Thomas's poem "Do not go gentle into that good night. "
Burton's has been hailed as the greatest
voice of the English language; it's certainly the iconic voice of Wales, no
more so than when melded with the lilting prose and poetry of Thomas. Burton
became "First Voice" for Under Milk Wood in its original BBC radio
broadcast in 1954, a role he famously reprised in the 1972 film adaptation.

Yes,
he became a star of stage and screen, at one time the highest paid actor in
Hollywood, with seven Oscar nominations from 1952 to 1977. He fulfilled the
charismatic archetype, boozing, carousing and marrying five times—twice with
Elizabeth Taylor, making them the

Burton lived in two
different houses on Caradoc Street with his sister and her family, a typical
residential scene in the south Welsh Valleys.
At the Richard Burton
Memorial in Talbot Park, where Burton spent much time as a boy, the flowerbed
was designed by kids from his old school.
Locals filled Bethel
Chapel for a memorial service to Burton in 1984.
42 BRITISH HERITAGE SEPTEMBER 2013

Go
for a Burton
Travel
from London to the South Wales Valleys via the M4, exiting at Junction 40 for
The Richard Burton Trail (approx. 180 miles). find full details at
www.visitnpt.co.uk/richardburton.
Drop in for lunch, dinner or stay at Afan Lodge, Duffryn
Rhondda, www.mountain-bike-accommodation.com.
See wwvv.thevalleys.co.uk for
exploring further in the Valleys.

hottest couple of their time; their stars
co-habit the Hollywood Walk of Fame. He made films such as Cleopatra, The Spy
Who Came in from the Cold, Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf? and he excelled as a
Shakespearean stage actor. But underlying it all, it is the voice that
captivates.
Burton was born Richard Walter
Jenkins on November 10, 1925 in Pontrhydyfen, three miles north of Port Talbot.
Today, it's just a few minutes' drive from the M4 motorway, but you're quickly
plunged into the narrow Afan Valley and no little sense of a time warp. Two
walking trails—recently created with the help of Burton's family and
friends—lead you on a ramble through his upbringing.
The three-mile Birthplace Trail
wanders around Pontrhydyfen at the lower end of the Afan Valley, whose string
of villages developed as coal and metal mining boomed. The monolithic
19thcentury railway viaduct and aqueduct, bestriding the confluence of the Afan
and Pelenna rivers in the steep-sided village, remain as dramatic legacies: one
linked Tonmawr collieries to Port Talbot Dock; the other conveyed water to
power the water wheel at Oakwood Ironworks.
Richard was the 12th child of a collier,
also named Richard, and his wife Edith: A snippet on one of the signposts along
the trail reveals he weighed in at a whopping 12 pounds. His birthplace home
stands on the bank of the River Afan, dwarfed by the aqueduct.
Pontrhydyfen has a cozy, small-world feel,
and older folk still remember "Richie" with fondness. There's the
Miners' Arms where his hard-drinking father hung out and at the top of the
village is Bethel Chapel, now in disrepair, where hundreds of locals and no few
celebrities gathered for a memorial service following Burton's death from a
cerebral hemorrhage in 1984. The actor lived as a tax exile in Switzerland, and
it's there that he is buried, but in the graveyard of Pontrhydyfen's Jerusalem
Chapel his name has been added to his parents' gravestone.
A pleasant stroll leads to the Portrait
Bench where the sound box of Burton's recitals has been played some 21 ,000
times in the first 18 months alone.
Burton's mother died shortly after giving
birth to his brother Graham (who to this day lives in Cwmafan). Two-year-old
Richard was sent from his Welsh-speaking home in Pontrhydyfen to live with his
sister Celia and her husband Elfed a few miles away in Taibach, a district of
Port Talbot, where English speaking predominated. The 1.5-mile Burton Childhood
Trail traces his close-knit community life of chapels and choirs (he won an
ALL PHOTOS BY SIÂN ELLIS
eisteddfod
prize as a boy soprano), park and rugby.
At the Taibach Library he indulged his
passion for literature, and as his diaries, published last year, reveal, he was
an ardent cinema-goer. Eastern Primary School, which he attended, looks down on
Port Talbot steelworks, still a major employer in the town. He later went to
Port Talbot Secondary School (now Dyffryn Comprehensive School), though he left
at 16 when money was tight to work in the Co-op as a gentleman's outfitter.

same Connaught Road

etors
  Louise and Richard

house
  as Burton, became

Davies.
  Well before Afan

his
  ward and, aged 18, adopted his surname.

'Richard Burton helps
  to show our

Lodge became a four-star guesthouse
  beloved of

One
  of Philip's more unusual mentoring tech-

children that anything
  is possible'

walkers and mountain bikers, it was
  The Min-

niques
  was to take Richie

ers' Institute, a focal

o far, so ordinary for a local lad with
small town prospects and horizons hemmed by the surrounding hills. Yet by a
stroke of fortune he was encouraged back to school, and the schoolmaster Philip
Burton (among others), recognizing his talent, nurtured his acting. Young
Richie Jenkins lodged in the
The Pontrhydyfen Aqueduct
spans the Man Valley across two rivers.
a
Welshman from the valleys can achieve," he would explain.
It's a sentiment with no little
significance in a post-coal Valleys economy that looks for inspiration. Where
Burton blazed a trail, other locals followed—both Sir Anthony Hopkins and
Martin Sheen have acknowledged his influence. Cedric Burden, deputy head of
Dyffryn Lower School (who happened to be around as I peered through the
railings of Burton's old playground), said the actor remains a figure that
helps "to show our children that anything is possible." Children from
Burton's primary and secondary schools were closely involved in the creation of
the trails.
Up the Afan Valley at Afan Lodge in
Duffryn Rhondda, I had a similar conversation about heroes and aspirations with
propri-

up
Brombil Mountain for voice drills reciting Shakespeare, teaching him to project
rather than shout his lines. And so the voice with its "gem-cutting
precision" was honed. The mountain looms above Talbot Memorial Park, where
a flowerbed titled "lights, camera, action," has been dedicated to
the actor. Read also his poem about the Valleys and their influence on
him—language and literature were his abiding loves.
Throughout his career, Burton cherished
his roots. It was written into his contracts that he would not work on St.
David's Day (March 1st) and when he died he was buried in a red suit, with a
copy of Dylan Thomas's Complete Poems. He had frequently revisited Pontrhydyfen
and Taibach, arriving in a flash car—then hopping out to play with the local
kids. "I was just saying this is what point of entertainment for villages
around. During one concert, young Richie Jenkins first performed in a competition,
along with his brother Graham. A dedicated Richard Burton bedroom now occupies
the site of the stage and you'll find a scrapbook of Burton memorabilia, as
well as another of his unpublished poems behind the bar.
To celebrate Burton's passion for language
and his links with Afan Lodge, the Davies are seeking to promote local young
talented writers—currently, award-winning reflections on "Humanity"
by Sadie Jarrett hang in the Richard Burton Room. "It's to continue the
creative legacy; it's so important to encourage aspirations," Louise said.
If the actor were here he would give full voice to that.
SEPTEMBER 2013 BRITISH HERITAGE • 43

MIND
THE HISTORY AT
KENILWOR-TsHt
The role of the steward hasn't
changed that much over the centuries
BY DANA HUNTLEY

Broken, but
unbowed, Kenilworth's ramparts tower over the town and countryside.
© IMAGESEUROPE/ALAMY
Kenilworth.
The name even sounds romantic.

In its heyday,
  Kenilworth Castle was one of the largest, strongest, richest, most important
  castles in England—and its heyday lasted 400 years. Kenilworth played in the
  big leagues, held through the centuries by several of the movers-and-shakers
  of British history. "There's history on the doorstep everywhere."
Meet Tom Garner, Steward of Kenilworth Castle. Like
  his predecessors in office, Garner tends to the smooth

Visitors listen intently

day-to-day
  operations of the four-acre site, leads visitors

while a steward

on
  tours and lends a hand at the gatehouse or visitors

unpacks the castle's

reception.
  These days Garner is not the only steward at

colorful history.

Kenilworth; in fact, there are 30 of
  them (though onduty only about a dozen at a time).
Just a few miles from the county town of
Warwick
  and only 15 or so from

Stratford-upon-Avon, the Warwickshire
market town and its famous castle receives about 120,000 visitors a year.
"We want to make their visit as interesting as possible," says
Garner. "If they just come in to look at ruined stone, then it doesn't
mean anything to them. With people like me here, we can enliven the history and
help them see what they're looking at." While the castle had been around a
while, it was King John who gave Kenilworth the fortifications and the shape we
see today during a massive rebuilding program in 1210-1216. Then, Henry Ill
granted Kenilworth to Simon de Montfort, the Earl of Leicester, in 1244. De
Montfort led the opposition to the king in the Second Barons War (and called
the first elected Parliament), and Kenilworth was his command and control
center. After de Montfort's death at the Battle of Evesham, surviving rebels
retreated to Kenilworth. The king's forces laid siege, and the Siege of
Kenilworth (1266) became the longest in British history, lasting six months
until a negotiated surrender.
In the 1320s, Kenilworth belonged to the
ill-fated King Edward Il, who was deposed by his wife, Isabella of France, and
her lover, Roger Mortimer. The poor king, who was a poor king, signed his
abdication in the Great Hall at Kenilworth in 1326—shortly being murdered in
Berkeley Castle.
John of Gaunt, third son of King Edward
Ill, (and England's second richest man) inherited the castle with his marriage.
It quickly became the most important of the 30 or so castles he held. John
I ll

Tom Garner (left) never
knows what the day will bring. He might be answering questions in the huge
medieval barn that is now a café filled with displays, or tidying up in
the Elizabethan gatehouse, below, that was used as a private residence until
the 1930s.
PHOTOS BY DANA HUNTLEY

of Gaunt rebuilt the
fortress yet again, expanding the Great Hall, adding towers, the state
apartments and a new kitchen range in 1373-1380, and largely retired there in
his later years. The castle remained a Lancastrian stronghold throughout the
15th-century Wars of the Roses, and passed with the throne to King Henry VII
and his Tudor heirs.

To Pay a Visit:
Kenilworth is located on the A452 just a few miles from the M40 at
  Warwick.
The castle is open daily from 10
  a.m.-5 p.m., April through October. Admission is £9.

Ultimately,
Henry Vlll's daughter, Queen Elizabeth, ceded Kenilworth to her childhood
companion and lifelong favorite, Robert Dudley, the Earl of Leicester. With an
eye to impressing Elizabeth, Leicester undertook an extensive program of
modernization, particularly to attract the Queen's visits on her annual summer
progresses around the country.
In due
course, the Queen visited Kenilworth four times, the last in 1575, when the
full range of Leicester's dramatic rebuilding, including a recently restored
Elizabethan garden, could be seen to full advantage. As was customary, the
Queen was accompanied by more than 400 nobles and court retainers, and they all
stayed for 19 days, during which time Leicester was expected to feast and
entertain the lot. It nearly bankrupted him, but the visit was regarded a huge
success.
By the time of Queen Elizabeth I, of course, gunpowder and the power of
siege cannon had altered the castle's role from defensive fortress to showcase
of wealth and economic power. Leicester transformed the castle from a military
fortress into a palace fit for a queen. Two generations later, during the Civil
War Kenilworth saw its last military gasp as a Royalist stronghold. Parliament
prevailed, and in 1649 ordered the slighting of the castle, destroying parts of
the battlements and outer bailey.
During its four centuries of activity, the Lord of the Castle would have
been absent from Kenilworth far more than he was present. Somebody had to keep
the operation going, plan for times of its occupation and run the household
when the Lord and his retinue were "at home." That was the job of the
high office of castle steward. The steward ran a skeleton crew in the "off
season," showed around occasional visi-
48 BRITISH HERITAGE
SEPTEMBER 2013
tors, maintained the fabric
of the castle and made all preparation for the house parties and family
gatherings. In the current Downton Abbey parlance, the steward was a glorified
Carson; a butler plus estate manager.
Recent
history has been kind to Kenilworth Castle. Sir Walter Scott's novel of 1821
depicting Queen Elizabeth's 1575 visit, Kenilworth, popularized the fortress
for Victorian visitors and generated the first conservation work on the castle.
While the castle remained in private hands into the late 1930s, the Grade
I-Iisted site made its way to the public trust and since 1984 has been managed
by English Heritage.
The
castle may have changed in form and function over the centuries, but someone
still has to look after the place, and the job of the steward actually hasn't
changed that much.
Tom
Garner's master's degree in medieval studies from King's College, London, gives
him the academic background for his caretaker role. "English Heritage used
to call us 'property custodians,' but 'steward' sounds a little more
Tolkienesque," Garner laughs. "Whatever you call it, he's someone who
is doing all the work for his Lords. "
After
working at Kenilworth for a year, Garner waxes enthusiastic about his role.
"Every day is different; I never know what I'll be doing," says
Garner. "Most of the people who work here are very keen on the history.
"
The
town spreading out below Kenilworth's ramparts is also hometown to Garner. The
Warwickshire native comes by his local interest naturally. "I'm even
related to Shakespeare," he adds. "My father was a very keen
historian, so I grew up with it. I was dragged to castles all over England
during school holidays, and it took."
In
addition to the general castle tours that Garner and his fellow stewards offer
to visitors, several of them provide specialized tours on specific periods of
Kenilworth's history. Garner's special interest subject is King Henry V.
It's
the diversity of the role, however, and the curiosity of the historian, who never
knows what new discovery will come next, that fuel Garner's passion.
"You've got a lot of English history in one place," he says shaking
his head with a smile. If you happen to be in the Kenilworth neighborhood, stop
by to meet Garner. He and his fellow stewards would be happy to show you
around.

One of Tom Garner's fellow
stewards points out the ranges that Robert Dudley had constructed in a little
"home improvement" for Queen Elizabeth I's visit in 1574.
PHOTOS BY DANA HUNTLEY

taking care at
St. Tiggywinkles
Inside Britain's pioneering wildlife hospital
STORY
AND PHOTOS BY SUSIE KEARLEY
HE
SOUNDS OF SMALL WILD ANIMALS fill the air as you walk into St. Tiggywinkles'
visitor center in Haddenham, Buckinghamshire: This is Britain's most famous
wildlife hospital.
Set up by Les and Sue Stocker in 1978, the
hospital began in a small garden shed at the couple's home in Aylesbury. Over
the next 35 years, it grew exponentially.
Les
Stocker remembers their very first casualty: "We came across this injured
wood pigeon, took him in, nursed him back to health, and returned him to the
wild. It was something I had always wanted to do and our activities grew from
there. "
This early
accomplishment gave them the confidence to take in more injured wildlife, and
as their successes grew, so did their reputation. People started to bring small
frightened animals from all around Buckinghamshire to the hospital and it
became clear from these early encounters with wild creatures, that the problem
was widespread. From these small beginnings, The Wildlife Hospital Trust was
born.
"Back in 1985 we had a very Even
hedgehogs have busy year," said Stocker. "So medical conditions. many
hedgehogs were brought

The garden shed where Sue
and Les Stocker (below) began treating wild animals in 1978 still stands at St.
Tiggywinkles.
into the hospital
that a specialist unit had to be set up and that's how the hospital got its
name. We called it St. Tiggywinkles after the Beatrix Potter character.
"Our small
shed and aviaries were taking in a growing number of animals and we peaked at
almost 2,000 animals a year, at which point it became unmanageable. So, we
decided we needed a proper wildlife hospital and started collecting bric-a-brac
and having stalls every weekend to raise money for a hospital building. We also
managed to get some corporate sponsorship.
Les, Sue and their
supporters, worked tirelessly to make their dream a reality and their efforts
paid off. The new hospital building in Haddenham was officially opened by
H.R.H. Princess Alexandra in 1991.
The flow of casualties grew from a trickle
to a torrent. People were relieved that there was somewhere to take sick and
injured wildlife, and the number of animals brought in rose to more than 4,000
each year. The species arriving at the hospital were getting bigger—injured
deer and swans were being brought in by caring members of the public.
This situation called for specialist
equipment and techniques. Stocker explained: "Our pioneering wildlife
rehabilitation work resulted in the development of a deer stretcher, an
orthopedic suite, a hedgehog unrolling apparatus and hedgehog diagnostics. We
developed the practice of rearing orphans on goats' milk and colostrum, and
used intravenous nutrition on deer. We also now have a bespoke deer hoist and
wild animal rescue kits.
"The Trust is accepted as one of the leading
authorities on hedgehogs in the world, and has become known for its pioneering
work with other species too— particularly badgers and owls. We have
successfully treated most species of wild animal, bird, reptile and amphibian.
In handling such a wide variety of species, with different dietary and housing
requirements, we have taken our wildlife rehabilitation skills to a new level
of expertise and developed our understanding. It has made us experts in our
field. We work with other hospitals around the world in developing treatments
and sharing knowledge. Our published work is used in wildlife hospitals
worldwide to provide benchmarks for the treatment of wildlife."
Pioneering Veterinary Procedures
Fractured bones in birds, small
mammals and amphibians have presented a real challenge—even to the specialist
staff at St. Tiggywinkles. Many of the injuries presented are infected, and
these types of casualties are new to wildlife rehabilitation protocols, making
St.
Tiggywinkles pioneers in identifying the best
procedures for treating each species.
An orthopaedic suite at the hospital
contains the skeletons of different animals, providing reference material for
surgeons operating on fractures. The skulls, for example, enable surgeons to
see how each animal's jaw line should be set, so they can work with a full
understanding of the small differences between different species. This helps
them to correctly stabilize broken jaws and beaks, and all manner of techniques
are used to suit particular cases. They also use state-of-the-art digital x-ray
equipment, so the images are available very quickly in emergency situations. If
an infection is under control, most bird limb fractures will heal within two or
three weeks, while mammals take at least six weeks to recover.
Specially designed wildlife hospitals have
existed in the United States for some time, but St. Tiggywinkles was the first
such hospital in Europe. The Brits have caught up fast, developing specialist
techniques and becoming pioneers in many aspects of wildlife rescue.
The intensive care wing of the hospital
can accommodate up to 20 badgers, foxes, swans or deer, and 100 hedgehogs at
any one time. It also has the flexibility to cope with other many other
casualties, including bats, shrews or owls. There is a unit devoted to removing
oil from birds, and they have developed the first orthopaedic cradle for
injured birds.
St. Tiggywinkles provides hands-on
instruction in wildlife care for the veterinary profession, as well as courses
for lay people. The Trust also invented the first hedgehog unrolling apparatus
and discovered that hedgehog fleas, archaeopsylla erinacei, only lived on
hedgehogs and do not go onto pets.
St. Tiggywinkles also evolved the accepted
system of rearing orphans on goats' milk and colostrum (which is particularly
important for a baby's developing immune system), and staff at the hospital
have identified a number of previously unknown medical conditions affecting
hedgehogs. These include pop-off syndrome where the hedgehog cannot curl up because
a muscle has slipped into the wrong position, disabling the hedgehog; balloon
syndrome, where the hedgehog bloats up like a balloon with trapped air and
needs deflating; dental and tooth decay; seasonal lung worm; myasis (fly
strike); and zinc deficiency.
The hospital developed the world's first
deer stretcher to alleviate the trauma of being handled for injured deer, and
introduced intravenous nutrition, previously used only in human medicine, to
feed injured deer too weak to feed themselves.
The Visitor Experience
Most
of the animals treated at the hospital are eventually returned to the wild, but
some have missing limbs or other disabilities, and some are just too old and
frail to be released after treatment.
The Visitor Centre at the Hospital is
a sanctuary for all those animals too badly injured to be released back into
their natural habitat. For some, it is a temporary home while they recover, but
for others, it is a risk-free environment where they can safely live out the
rest of their lives. Thousands of people visit the center every year to see the
animals, hear the talks, and learn about the work of the hospital.
There is a huge aviary for recovering
Red Kites. These birds of prey were reintroduced into the Chiltern Hills 20
years ago and the breeding program has been very successful. Inevitably,
however, the odd casualty occurs and St. Tiggywinkles is on hand to help.
Inside
the hospital is a viewing area where visitors can see baby hedgehogs, birds,
rabbits and injured
squirrels receiving care. Nearby, is the hedgehog
enclosure for those who cannot be safely released back into the wild. Some are
blind, others juveniles, and there is an albino among them who is too
conspicuous to be set free.
Visitors can see badgers, foxes, deer,
wildfowl, ravens, and numerous other forms of wildlife, but they don't all
stick around for the shrill tones of children. You have to be quiet, patient
and have luck on your side, because many are nocturnal, and they're all prone
to hiding!
St.
Tiggywinkles welcomes herons, cranes, bats, owls and all manner of winged
creatures.
Badgers are
normally nocturnal and quite unsocial, but this one has obviously found a
caring friend.

cheessay         e!
BY
DANA-HUNTLEY

Paired with
bread, fruit and red wine, this beautiful wedge of Stilton looks almost good
enough to eat!
© John Geoghegan / Alamy

HEESE,
GLORIOUS CHEESE. It's one of Britain's oldest and most delicious foods—made and
enjoyed on our sceptered isle since before history began. The dairy product
that condenses the nutrition of milk into delectable, flavorful variations
sustained peer and peasant alike through the centuries.
flower
cheese. For afters, a cheese board with delightful offerings from a mild
Caerphilly to a pungent Dorset Blue Vinney or a Sage Derby with grapes and
biscuits. Then, perhaps a bit of port and Stilton?
As
with most foods, the English rep-

The ubiquitous Ploughman's Lunch has
fortified the populace in one form or another since medieval times: a chunk of
bread and another of cheese taken to the fields for the midday's nourishing
repast. Today, that cheese might be as commonly plated with fruit for lunch, or
make its way into every course of dinner, from goats' cheese in a salad, to
sauce for a chicken or fish to cauliutation for cheese lags behind that of its
French neighbors. In fact, while France boasts 350 different cheeses, England
produces more than 750 distinct cheeses today, crafted in creameries and
farmhouse dairies from Cornwall to Cumbria.
In
the capital, you can sample and acquire English cheeses at Neal's Yard Dairy in
Covent Garden. In fact, British cheeses are all they stock, and their specialty
is a great range of delectable Cheddars. Or, 200 miles north, pop in to The
Cheeseboard in Harrogate, where they stock 200 varieties of cheese, most of
them English. Here in the gateway to the Dales, the local favorite is
predictably Wensleydale.
CHEDDAR
While "cheddar" cheese is
produced throughout the world, Cheddar is a decidedly English cheese, and
certainly the most popular. It takes its name from its Somerset source, in
Cheddar Gorge. The original Cheddar cheese company still makes the eponymous
cheese today. And while terrific Cheddars are produced in farmhouses and
commercial creameries around the country, there is some argument that, properly
speaking, Cheddar is a Somerset cheese.
Good Cheddar is always crumbly if it is
being aged properly. Joseph Harding, called "the father of Cheddar
cheese," described the ideal Cheddar as "close and firm in texture,
mellow in character or quality, rich with a tendency to melt in the mouth and
has a full and fine flavor somewhat like hazelnut." Maturing 9 to 24
months, the cheese gets sharper with age.
DOUBLE GLOUCESTER
First
produced in Gloucester in 1498, Double Gloucester is a Cotswold cheese, still
made principally in Gloucestershire today. It is a full-fatted, hard cheese,
made with whole milk, distinguished from Single Gloucester made from skimmed
milk. Perhaps not surprisingly, the Double Gloucester variety has more flavor.
As the local favorite, it is wheels of Double

56 BRITISH HERITAGE SEPTEMBER 2013                                                                                ABOVE
  LEFT AND BOTTOM: DANA HUNTLEY; ABOVE RIGHT: ©BON APPETIT/ALAMY ; RIGHT:
  ©STOCKSOLUTIONS/ALAMY

Select a nice bit of Double Gloucester (above) at The
Cheeseboard in Harrogate, or range through a plethora of British cheeses at
Neals Yard Dairy in Covent Garden (below).
Gloucester that careen down the hill at
the annual Cooper's Hill Cheese-Rolling.
Double Gloucester is aged four
months, but traditionally eaten as a young cheese, while it retains a buttery
texture and a mild, but pronounced, nutty flavor. This is a great cheese to
accompany a real ale or a young red wine, and is a wonderful choice to
accompany cold meats on a fresh baguette.
STILTON
One
of the few world-famous British cheeses, Stilton has been called "the King
of Cheeses" for generations. It is the only English cheese that has
EU-protected name status and a certification trademark. Stilton cheese can be
produced only in the counties of Leicestershire, Derbyshire and
Nottinghamshire, and is actually made at six creameries in those counties.
The strong, blue-veined cheese develops
its hard, crumbly rind while aging, and remains soft and moist in its interior.
Stilton has been traditionally paired with sherry or port, perhaps with a few
walnuts. It also goes down a treat with a pear or apple, or a crusty role and
butter. In recent years, Stilton has found a popular pairing in soup with
broccoli, and in a pungent cream sauce for steak.
WENSLEYDALE
Yes, celebrated by Wallace and Gromit,
Wensleydale takes its name from the longest and most famous of the Yorkshire Dales.
The only place Wensleydale cheese is made today is the Wensleydale Creamery in
Hawes, deep into the dale near the Pennines. Farms throughout the valley
provide the milk, while the creamery (employing 200 people) produces five tons
of Wensleydale cheese a day.
The creamery actually makes 24 varieties
of cheese, all available to sample in their visitors' center tasting room. The
most popular is the traditional semi-hard

Here is a lovely version of broccoli-Stilton soup
without cream.
white cheese, mild yet piquant, with
a lingering aftertaste. Next in popularity is the mature variety, like (10)
most firm cheeses developing piquancy as it ages. As a semi-hard, mild cheese,
however, Wensleydale has proven a perfect cheese to infuse with apricot and
walnut, for instance, cranberry or blueberry, to make an elegant dessert
cheese.
CHESHIRE
Produced in the county of Cheshire
and neighboring Welsh and English counties, Cheshire may be the oldest cheese
in Britain. Legend has that it has been made since the Romans were here, and it
was mentioned in the 1 Ith-century Domesday Book. The firm, white cheese ages
cloth-wrapped and develops a natural rind.
Milkier than many cheeses, Cheshire
is firm, white and crumbly as a young cheese—aromatic, but mild. Aged Cheshire
darkens and hardens into a highly flavored cheese without bitterness. With a
much lower salt content than many cheeses, Cheshire is a great cheese to
crumble on fruit or to use in vegetable dishes. Red Cheshire is a variant with
annatto added to create a deep orange color, but does not affect either taste
or texture. Blue Cheshire is a variety ripened with classic penicillium mold
for added sharpness and flavor.
Brocco/i-Sti/t0'1 Soup
-
2
tbsp. Jive odor butter
-
1
onion — choppedor "iced
-
1
stalk ce/erg — choppedor
-
1
mediumpotato — diced
-
1
qt. chicken stock
-
1
headbrocco/i (about 1 /b.) — rough/U chopped
—
4 oz. Sti/t0'1 cheese
- 2
dashes (Mackpepper; dry mustard& 'IL'tmeg
Heat the oi/ñl (argesaucepan
am/adL/0'1ions L"lti/ soft. AM ce/erg am/potato. Cover am/simmer a few
minutes over medium heat. 74M stock am/ chopped brocco/i sta/k. Simmer 10-15
minutes. AMrest a coup/e ofminutes.
Then, b/itz in b/em/er
orfoodprocessor to coarse puree. Return touent/e heat am/stir in Sti/tð'l.
Season with Wack peppeç nutmeg
am/ dry mustard. Between the chicken stock am/Stilton, /itt/e sa/t wi// be
needed. Reserve bits ofbrocco/i flowerets am/crmnb/es ofSti/ton togarm•s/l.
Makesfoaryenerous servings — at 011/3
340 ca/ories each.

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Beyond the Bookshelf

9
The
Royal Opera House

IT WOULD BE A
  MISTAKE to assume that London's Royal Opera House is an exclusive enclave
  only for those with expensive tickets for a performance. Since major
  renovations were completed in 1999, the Royal Opera House, home to the Royal
  Opera and the Royal Ballet and affectionately referred to simply as
  "Covent Garden" by Londoners, has opened its doors throughout the
  day to the public. Everyone is welcome to wander in and enjoy the premises,
  and even those with no interest in opera or ballet might find this iconic
  building worth a visit.
While a theater has been on this
  site since the 1700s, it was not until 1858 that it became an opera house.
  The Royal Opera House, designed by Edward Barry, retains its original white
  façade that was built in a

classical style with its main
  entrance on Bow Street. An adjacent connecting building, a spectacular glass
  structure called Floral Hall, that was once part of the historic Covent Garden
  flower market, now serves as the venue's atrium and public space. Another
  entrance can be accessed directly from the Covent Garden piazza.
During
  the day the Royal Opera House is an oasis from the hustle and bustle of
  Covent Garden with its interesting building tours, free special exhibitions,
  a very well- stocked shop and the Amphitheatre Restaurant—an elegant setting
  in which to enjoy lunch or afternoon tea with views looking out over the
  neighborhood. In the evening this restaurant along with the exquisite Paul
  Hamlyn Hall Balconies Restaurant and Champagne Bar is available only

©
LOOP IMAGES LTD/ALAMY
Opening
to Bow Street and the cobbled squares of Covent Garden, the Royal Opera House
has been a London landmark since 1858.
to
ticket holders. Backstage tours offer insight into what preparations are
necessary for a live performance. Depending on the day a tour may stop by a
rehearsal room where the Royal Ballet is going through its exercises, while
another may enter rooms where props and costumes are being made for an upcoming
opera. Some tours focus on the architecture of the Royal Opera House and the
luxurious theater itself which has a seating capacity of 2,257 in a horseshoe
shape on four levels.
Enter the Royal Opera House from the
Covent Garden piazza and the gift shop is there on the left hand side with
appealing items adorning its windows. Some items in the shop will be of
immediate interest to opera lovers, while others like the beautiful damask
travel bags and pieces of jewSEPTEMBER 2013 BRITISH HERITAGE • 59

Beyond the Bookshelf

elry will catch everyone's attention. Just
beyond the shop is the Box Office where tickets can be booked for performances
as well as for one of the organized tours. Throughout the year free exhibitions
celebrating individuals, significant moments, and the history of the Royal
Opera House are on display in the costume cases and the Amphitheatre Gallery.
Finally, of course, it is opera and ballet
that beckon people night after night to this world famous venue. While opera
ticket prices have long been associated with those at the top end of the
economic bracket, today's Royal Opera House is making a strong effort to
include a wider population with many seats at each performance

The Many Not
the Few: The Stolen History of the Battle of Britain by Richard North,
Bloomsbury Publishing, New York,
464 pages, hardcover, $30
AMONG THE MOST FAMOUS quotes surviving from World War
Il are Winston Churchill's immortal words, "Never in the field of human
conflict was so much owed by so many to so few.
Churchill's testimony to the courageous
efforts and sacrifice of the RAF pilots who defended Britain against the onslaught
of the German Luftwaffe has virtually defined the narrative history of the
Battle of Britain.
Perhaps that narrative history has been
wrong. In an impressive, even impassioned, argument Richard North forces us to
reevaluate the way we look at those dark days when Britain stood alone against
Nazi Germany and fought off the hugely anticipated German invasion of the
island. Churchill himself
60
BRITISH HERITAGE SEPTEMBER 2013 priced at £40 and even less. Antonio
Pappano, the dynamic conductor and Music Director of the Royal Opera since
2002, offers an inside look at what it is like to work here: "Walking into
this building each day knowing that I have a fantastic auditorium, world-class
orchestra and chorus and all manner of exciting guest artists, I feel I am the
luckiest musician on the planet. We are a family here at the Royal Opera
House—we live and breathe opera because we are addicted to its emotional power.
"
—Jennifer Dorn

For
more information go to www.roh.org.uk
provided the key in his address to the people, June
18, 1940: "Hitler knows that he will have to break us in this island or
lose the war." The months of German bombing that followed, of course, were
not even principally focused on military targets, but wrecked destruction and
life loss across the country—aimed explicitly to break the British people. And
they did not break.
It was indeed those "many" and
not simply the "few" who saved Britain, North proposes. Day by day,
he takes us through the 114 days from July 10 to October 31, 1940 when German
bombers flooded the skies over Britain almost without recess. Day after day,
the British people crawled out of their Anderson shelters, put out the fires,
cleared away the rubble, went to work and made tea—all with a resilience and a
stiff-upper-lip that seems almost unfathomable in our more coddled age. The
Many Not the Few makes the case convincingly that this was indeed The People's
War.
This is a clearly written, inspiring read,
and a major new contribution to World War Il history.
The
Scarlet Pimpernel starring Anthony Andrews, Jane Seymour and Ian McKellen,
Acorn Media, Silver Spring, Md., approx. 136 minutes, $29.99
MOST BRITISH HERITAGE readers (of a
certain age, at least) remember the event that Brideshead Revisited became
during its broadcast on PBS in 1983. Among the effects of its popularity, the
landmark series made recognizable stars out of Jeremy Irons and Anthony
Andrews.
British
Heritage was pleased to visit with Anthony Andrews—an avowed British Heritage
reader—last year on the 30th anniversary of Brideshead Revisited (May 2012, p.
58).
Broadcast in the States as a miniseries
just a year after Brideshead, Anthony Andrews stars in The Scarlet Pimpernel.
For the first time, Acorn Media brings this swashbuckling saga of the French
Revolution out on DVD. Hurrah! Andrews is at his best playing the duel role as
the foppish English baronet Sir Percy Blakeney and the Scarlet Pimpernel, who
leads rescue missions to save doomed French aristocrats from the guillotine of
France's Reign of Terror with flair and bravado.
Of course, such classic historic romances
demand a love interest and a villain to
Lounging petulantly, Jane Seymour plays
Marguerite St. Just, the love of the
Pimpernel's life, and, of course, a complication to his work.
COURTESY OF ACORN MEDIA

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Beyond the
Bookshelf
create plenty of conflict.
In this case, that's Jane Seymour as high-born French actress Marguerite St.
Just (and Sir Percy's grande passion), and Ian McKellen as the cruel sword of
Robespierre, Chauvelin, charged with the apprehension of the Pimpernel. Just to
mix things up a bit, Chauvelin has his lecherous eye on Marguerite as well.
It's all
great fun, and gorgeous eye candy, too. The series won an Emmy for Costume
Design and nominations for both Outstanding Drama Special and Art Direction.
The Scarlet Pimpernel is certainly must-have action for Andrews fans, and a
real treasure for anyone who loves classic period swashbuckling romance.
THE EVERETT COLLECTION

Under Milk
Wood starring Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor and Peter O'Toole, Sundance Home
Entertainment, approx. 88 minutes plus interviews and special features.
Available from Amazon, $12

SONOROUS, RICHLY TIMBRED and
mellifluous, Richard Burton's voice may be the most memorable characteristic of
this colorful actor. Burton left a legacy of many films. For the voice itself,
however, perhaps the most dramatic is this "small" lowbudget
production of Dylan Thomas' verse play Under Milk wood. The melodic cadences of
Wales' most famous poet come to life with Burton's narration as First Voice,
reminiscent of the Stage Manager in Thorton Wilder's Our Town.
Under
Milk Wood tells the story of an ordinary day in the life of a Welsh coastal
village, unpacking the angst, ennui and faded ambitions of its citizens, of
Rev. Jenkins the vicar, of the muscular women gossiping over the fence, of the
local pub habitués and fishermen. It's as simple as it appears. Burton,
of course, was the child of such a village, and a tortured poetic soul himself.
Burton feels this drama; he is not acting, and his voice infuses into Thomas's
lines all the pathos, pain and hope of Wales and its unique people.
Elizabeth
Taylor as Rosie Probert and Peter O'Toole as Captain Cat are among the colorful
denizens of the Welsh village of Llareggub.
"Eli
Jenkins' Prayer" from Under Milk Wood
SET TO THE MUSIC of a
haunting Anglican chant, "Eli Jenkins Prayer" (sometimes called
"Sunset Poem ") has long been a staple in the repertoire of Welsh
Male Voice Choirs. It has also been adopted as the anthem of the Bristol Rugby
Club.
Every
morning when I wake,
Dear Lord a
little prayer I make, O please to keep Thy loving eye
On all poor creatures born to die.
And every
evening at sun-down
I ask a
blessing on the town,
For whether we last the night or no
I'm sure is always touch-and-go.
We are not
wholly bad or good
Who live our
lives under Milk Wood,
And Thou, I
know, wilt be the first
To see our best side, not our worst.
O let us see
another day!
Bless us all
this night, I pray,
And to the
sun we all will bow
And say,
good-bye—but just for now!
SEPTEMBER 2013 BRITISH HERITAGE • 63

Anglo-file Tips and tidbits for travel andforfun
The British Heritage
PUZZLER*-
LAST
ISSUE WE PUZZLED: "A root vegetable and a flower share the name Ceninen.
Perhaps that is why they are both national emblems. We know them better by what
names?"
Yes, Wales shares both as its national emblems, the
leek and the daffodil. It is traditional to wear one of these as a lapel badge
on St. David's Day, March 1st. This year, both of the abundant Welsh flora
arrived rather late due to the frigid winter.
THIS
ONE MAY SEND SOME FOLKS back to the anthology, but identify this modicum of
good sense by author and title:
'Tis with our
judgments as our watches, none Go just alike, yet each believes his own. In
poets as true genius is but rare,
True taste as seldom is the critics
share.

Oh, yes, be a Puzzler player, Email
  your answer to: britishheritage@weiderhistorygroup.com. All entries are
  acknowledged.

Home

facebook
Ýou

ard

—L Change gevin Jobawh

Kevin

                    British Heritage Magazine                        Now                                                                                Admin
Panel
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Heritage Magazine                                .•Uked
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• ZZ               this • 1 was
         •rÄiSh Herit•ge         ceebrates
travel. history &                   in
162 and waits, VOh Heritage the   ¥d
British Heritage has your day been?
Se Ad Here
                •titish                         shared                                                                                "entzoe
Recent     On would Henry W look like
if he were alive today? A                     Ooyer bunch of artists have made
new works VSsuaJizing what              rm                    to see thes C.*.
Cheers famous historical figures wouu look Eke if they Wed               at
them out:
Kevin Johnson http;I                       anglophilia/british—historv         09
          /what—would-henry                                                                                Cet
More
Kevin Johnson
64 BRITISH HERITAGE
SEPTEMBER 2013
www.visitScotland.com
The premier site for
planning and dreaming
www.richardiii.net
The Richard Ill Society
www.nationalrail.co.uk
Plan your
train travel across Britain www.facebook.com/BritishHeritageMagazine Check it
out!!
www.telegraph.co.uk
Current
news from the Daily Telegraph www.parliament.uk
Comprehensive site of the
British Parliament
Keeping ;EažT$EhS in Touch
WE ARE
ALWAYS DELIGHTED to hear from British Heritage readers—and to occasionally pass
along the enthusiasms and travel tips you share. We would always love to hear
if you've used British Heritage in planning your own adventures in Britain.
Our posting address is 19300 Promenade Drive, Leesburg,
VA 20176. Most folk these days, however, conveniently email us at
britishheritage@weiderhistorygroup.com.
TOP LEFT:
FOODFOLIO/ALAMY

IN TilE
  worws OF TIIE IRON LADY

Reader Reviews Have Your Say!
WE ASKED
  ABOUT those Great British foodstuffs, and received your enthusiastic
  response. The most popular single longing? Proper bacon. Fish and chips
  received plenty of mentions as well. As Brenda Bradford conduded:
  "Anyone who says food in the UK is not good just doesn't know where to
  eat!"
Besides
  the porridge we bring home, we love the soups. Nothing can be better than
  stopping by a pub, tea shop, café, etc. at lunchtime, and having a
  delicious bowl of soup with crusty bread. Here I'm having pumpkin soup in the
  Cloisters café at Exeter Cathedral last October.
Elinor Kline Punta Gorda, Fla.

Having
  lived in Bottesford Village, Leicestershire for two years, I embraced the
  local fare. Now that I'm back home, the list of things I crave is quite
  extensive: Bramley apples, British ham, cheese and onion savory rolls,
  sausage rolls and egg mayo sandwiches, fish and chips, Walkers crisps,
  British bread, a proper Sunday roast with Yorkshire pudding, Lincolnshire and
  Cumberland sausage.
Jen Beres
San Antonio, Texas
I teach
  British literature and have taken students to Britain 19 times. On every
  trip, I save room in my suitcase for at least 2 boxes of Special K cereal.
  Brown and crunchy and malty, only in the UK can I get the BEST oldfashioned
  Special K cereal.
Therese Sorey Irvine, Calif.

"Being powerful is
like being a lady. If you have to tell people you are, you aren't. "
"If my
critics saw me walking over the Thames they would say it was because I couldn't
swim.
"Disciplining
yourself to do what you know is right and important, though difficult, is the
highroad to pride, self-esteem and personal satisfaction. "The problem with socialism is
that you eventually run out of other people's money. "
"It may be the cock
that crows, but it is the hen that lays the eggs.
"There can be no liberty
unless there is economic liberty.
"You and I come by
road or rail, but economists travel on infrastructure. "

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The Isle
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2013 BRITISH HERITAGE 65

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