 in part because the nearest electricity is over 500 miles away. So is the nearest paved road and the nearest building made with anything other than mud or grass. This is Gokhmachar, southern Sudan, just a few miles from the border with Darfur, a village that's swelled from 8,000 people to more than 45,000 as refugees flee the bombings and murders take place, as I type these words, just 50 miles to the northwest.