 Historically, Marseille is a meeting point of different civilizations, and it's still an exciting, happening place today. There's a spirit of openness and freedom, a feeling you can do anything, anytime, gastronomically and otherwise. It's inside us. Everything is possible in Marseille. Dijon cooks with high-quality local products and says she throws nothing away. Louis Schwartz, a Brit who grew up in France, is one of the cooks in her kitchen. He says he loves Marseille eating.