 Paul beheaded. Peter crucified upside down. He was thrilled at the thought of praying and celebrating mass in the great churches. And this is what he found. According to Luther scholar and historian Heiko Obermann, this is what he says. This is what Obermann says. Later, Luther remembered clearly the shock and horror that he had felt in Rome upon hearing for the first time in his life flagrant blasphemies uttered in public.