 We stopped behind a rickety old local bus that had broken down. Guess what? We jammed all the passengers from that bus into our van and stopped at villages all along the way, dropping them off at their destinations. Finally, we arrived at Oaxaca City, a 16th-century Spanish colonial town famous for its chocolate, its Zapotec weavings, and its famous archaeological site of Monte Alban. I walked into a church that surely must have been shipped from Italy with its lavish, gold-covered Baroque altar and ceiling.