 tear gas, eggs, graffiti and vandalism. It's all because of a clash over what culture and creativity should be. Autonomous, but dirty and somewhat intimidating, like the squat which was previously in the old ROG bike factory, or clean and, on the face of it, accessible, like the new centre ROG, which is controlled by the city. Here's our ever-open-minded Balkans correspondent, Guy Delaney, with more.