 Here, 1,200 metres above sea level, the Ahuaca, Wiwa, Kogi and Kankuamos make their homes. This land has not always been recognised as their territory, though. For centuries, the tribes have suffered at the hands of colonisers, guerrilla soldiers and drug traffickers. But the Sierra Nevada, like the rest of Colombia, is changing, and so-called ethnotourism is playing its part.