 That moment was when our Haida souls stopped hiding, Marnie explains, as we share a supper of herring roe on kelp and deer jerky at Kina Wai's Kitchen, a supper club in a local home. The Haida are revered amongst Canada's 204 First Nations communities as warriors and as leading totem pole carvers. These monuments were once numerous on these storm-lashed volcanic islands, both as domestic decoration in the form of house poles at thresholds.