 Gazing up at the pole's depictions of bears, ravens and eagles, you can also spot a representation of the spirit Gurgator. Marnie tells me that Gurgator is a supernatural being the Haider believed to be too strong to die. I like to think our spirit, the Haider spirit, was also too strong to die, Marnie tells me, as we gaze up at the mute faces staring out from the wood. Despite everything, the Haider are still here. Sally Howard there.