 Here, 1,200 meters above sea level, the Ahuaca, Wiwa, Kogi, and Kankawamos make their homes. This land has not always been recognized as their territory, though. For centuries, the tribes have suffered at the hands of colonizers, guerrilla soldiers, and drug traffickers. But the Sierra Nevada, like the rest of Colombia, is changing, and so-called ethnotourism is playing its part.