 section of your book that I thought was so interesting. You were like, it's the odds. I'm like, what are the odds? And it's the spreads of Provence. There's a tapenade, which many people know, but there's anchoillade, which is kind of like an anchovy, almost emulsion. Poivronade, which is like a stewed pepper. So there are all these odds. Tell us about the odds and why is that a thing?