 I shall never forget Conway's vivid description of that lonely space. It is like a vast emptiness, he said, with mountains on every side. Mountains rising on top of mountains. There was a range of them gleaming on the far horizon like a row of dove's feet. But it was the wind, I think, that impressed him most. Not an ordinary wind. Not even a strong wind or a cold wind. A sort of frenzy that lived all round us.