 Marnie York, a tour guide who also goes by her indigenous name, Ardit Sijat, was six years old when the first totem pole came home. It was 1969 and the 40-foot-high red cedar pole was the first of these towering carvings to be raised for a century on Haida Gwaii, the island archipelago that's been home to the Haida people for 13 millennia.