Interdisciplinary synthesis of theory and practice in moulage modeling of costume
The relevance of the topic lies in the importance of the skill of costume modeling, which contributes to the expansion of the boundaries of creative consciousness, the formation of the design concept, develops an understanding of form and space, an eye and dexterity in creating elegant lines, fancy details and products. A study of the complex shape and cut of the dress from the Alexander McQueen collection was conducted by the method of modeling on a mannequin. Modeling develops creative thought, the ability to understand the nature of the cut, the change in the geometry of its lines, depending on the features of the human figure and the plasticity of the material. The finished layout becomes a subject of research and a source of inspiration for many modern designers. The uniqueness of the Alexander McQueen dress is that it is formed from the optimal number of details, coordinated with each other in such a way that a spiral effect of the product is created around the human figure. The analysis of the collection line showed that many items were created using the moulage method. Fancy sleeves, dresses and skirts are difficult to build on paper with a flat cut, it took several stages of research, as well as a larger amount of fabric than was indicated in the sources. Before draping the details, it was necessary to analyze the design and idea, and experimentally find the forms conceived by the designer. So, for example, the understanding of the structure of the front part came only during the draping of the left part of the front, after which it was possible to mirror the laid folds and creases. To accurately reproduce the appearance of the skirt of the product, it is especially important to pay attention to the fastening of the lower invisible layers of the folds, the angle of their fastening and the symmetry of the folds, since they hold the bulk of the skirt, creating the volume and the intended shape. It was possible to synthesize into a single holistic flow the theoretical aspects of predicting the shape and understand the nature of the cut, the plasticity and possibilities of the material, practical techniques for obtaining rational patterns of complex costume forms along the lines of the moulage. Research into a complex and controversial collection, consisting of two opposite poles, has achieved its goal. Patterns of complex shape, exclusive oblique cut of one-piece details of the unique design of the dress, which is presented today at the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute, are obtained. The research method allows you to find ways to achieve the required shape, volume, gives a real and accurate idea of the cut and design features of the model. This is an opportunity to touch a high creativity and a great person. The research proves that the study of individual models and the creativity of famous designers in general serves as an important stage in the formation of professional skills, allows you to generate new ideas in the search for modern forms of costume, implementing in practice an interdisciplinary synthesis of artistic and engineering solutions in design activities.