Mongolian Dress of the Golden Horde Nobility in 1266-1312
In this article author continues to study the evolution of Mongolian costumes of the Golden Horde nobility. The considered period (1266-1312) was the time of separation and the formation of the Ulus of Jochi as an independent state. The first part of the research is dedicated to the political relations between uluses of the former united Mongol Empire. In particular the author takes under consideration the relations between the Ulus of Jochi and the uluses of Hulagu and of the Great Khan. As a result, it is revealed that in the Ulus of Jochi the systematic borrowing of garments from other Mongol states became possible only at the turn of the 13th-14th centuries. In addition, it is not correct to speak about the Ulus of Jochi as a single state during that period. Till 1300 we have to examine three separate parts: the Nogay Horde, the Volga Horde, and the Zayaitskaya Horde. And after 1300 we may speak about two parts: the Golden Horde and the Zayaitskaya Horde. In the second part of article, the author analyzes the certain types of the Mongolian costumes of the Golden Horde nobility, including men's and women's body garments, hose and pants, shoes and boot covers, head-dresses and warm clothing. Among other questions, the author examines traditions and new rules and laws regarding clothes at those times. As a result, the researcher comes into conclusion that in the second half of the 13th - early 14th centuries the complex of the Mongolian nobility clothing in Chingisid states, including the Golden Horde, continued to evolve. Preexisting objects were changing, new ones appeared. Thus the existing sources don't allow us to talk about the complete uniformity of nobleman's costumes in different uluses. Even despite of rather scanty source base, the uniqueness of costume in the Golden Horde may be noted. First of all it is to be mentioned that for a long time higher nobility here were trying to stick to the traditions established by Genghis Khan. It is marked that the traditions of the Turks had a significant impact on the Mongolian costume, but at the same time higher Turkic nobility were actively adopting Mongolian clothing. However, it never happened completely, but only within the limits set. Being an important element of the representativity, the costume indicated the position of an individual in the political system of the Ulus of Jochi. The impossibility of studying the costume of Golden Horde nomads by using the material of other Chingisid states is specially emphasized. Informational sources from other parts of the former Great Mongol Empire should be taken only as circumstantial.