0_Wizard
I love surfing! It's so much fun to ride waves all the way into the shore. Have you ever been surfing?
Surfing is a surface water sport in which the wave rider, referred to as a surfer, rides on the forward or deep face of a moving wave, which is usually carrying the surfer towards the shore.
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Surfing
chosen_topic_0_Surfing
Surfing
Surfing is a surface water sport in which the wave rider, referred to as a surfer, rides on the forward or deep face of a moving wave, which is usually carrying the surfer towards the shore. Waves suitable for surfing are primarily found in the ocean, but can also be found in lakes or in rivers in the form of a standing wave or tidal bore. However, surfers can also utilize artificial waves such as those from boat wakes and the waves created in artificial wave pools. The term "surfing" refers to the act of riding a wave, regardless of whether the wave is ridden with a board or without a board, and regardless of the stance used.
Surf culture
Surf culture is the culture that includes the people, language, fashion, and lifestyle surrounding the sport of surfing. The history of surfing began with the ancient Polynesians. That initial culture directly influenced modern surfing, which began to flourish and evolve in the early 20th century, with its popularity spiking during the 1950s and 1960s (principally in Hawaii, Australia, and California). It has affected music, clothing fashion, literature, film, art, and youth jargon in popular culture' the number of surfers throughout the world continues to increase. Surfers' desire for the best possible waves to ride make them dependent on conditions that may change rapidly, given the unpredictable nature of weather events and their effect on the surface of the ocean.
Mandaragirau
Mandaragirau is a town in Borno State, Nigeria. It is a fact that Mandaragirau is one of the most important places in the history of the Pabir tribe and the present Biu Emirate. This is because the history of the Dagil clan, a direct descendant of Yamtarawala the founder of Pabir and its kingdom in the 15th century is to some great extent related to Mandaragirau. It is therefore very obvious that the history of Yamtarawala and the Babur (Pabir) kingdom, and that of the present Biu Emirate cannot be complete without mentioning the history of the Dagil clan and its Mandaragirau kingdom. The reports written by the European colonialists and particularly as found in the famous “Biu Book” (1954-1956) and the book “Emirates of Northern Nigeria” by S. G. Hogben & A. H. M. Kirk-Green (1966) established that Yamtarawala the founder of the Babur tribe and its Kingdom came to Biu area from Birni Ngazargamu in the early 15th century.
Surfboard
A surfboard is an elongated platform used in the sport of surfing. Surfboards are relatively light, but are strong enough to support an individual standing on them while riding an ocean surface wave breaking wave. They were invented in ancient Hawaii, where they were known as "papa he'e nalu" in the Hawaiian language, they were usually made of wood from local trees, such as koa, and were often over in length and extremely heavy. Major advances over the years include the addition of one or more fins on the bottom rear of the board to improve directional stability, and numerous improvements in materials and shape.
Big wave surfing
Big wave surfing is a discipline within surfing in which experienced surfers paddle into or are towed onto waves which are at least 20 feet (6.2 m) high, on surf boards known as "guns" or towboards. Sizes of the board needed to successfully surf these waves vary by the size of the wave as well as the technique the surfer uses to reach the wave. A larger, longer board allows a rider to paddle fast enough to catch the wave and has the advantage of being more stable, but it also limits maneuverability and surfing speed. The current world No. 1 big wave rider is Makua Rothman. In 1992, big wave surfers such as Laird Hamilton and Darrick Doerner introduced a cross over sport called tow-in surfing.
Laird Hamilton
Laird Hamilton (born March 2, 1964) is an American big-wave surfer, co-inventor of tow-in surfing, and an occasional fashion and action-sports model. He is married to Gabrielle Reece, a professional volleyball player, television personality, and model. Hamilton and his family split their time between residences in Maui, Hawaii, and Malibu, California. Laird was born Laird John Zerfas in San Francisco on March 2, 1964, in an experimental salt-water sphere at UCSF Medical Center designed to ease the mother's labor. His father, L. G. Zerfas, left the family before his first birthday. While he was an infant, Laird and his mother, Joann (née Zyirek), moved to Hawaii.
History of surfing
The riding of waves has likely existed since humans began swimming in the ocean. In this sense, bodysurfing is the oldest type of wave-catching. Standing up on what is now called a surfboard is a relatively recent innovation developed by the Polynesians.The influences for modern surfing can be directly traced to the surfers of pre-contact Hawaii. The art of surfing, known as "heʻe ʻana" ("heʻe" means "to surf", and "ʻana" is the nominilizing particle) in the Hawaiian language, was first discovered by Joseph Banks on the HMS Endeavour during the first voyage of James Cook, during the ship's stay in Tahiti.