I have been using this stuff since the 1970's. I've extenisvely used contact cements, silicone, epoxies, etc...Goo is best for gluing a lose section of sole back to boot or shoe, patching holes, etc. One of my friends used it for 'recapping' very expensive silk tubular racing bike tires even. Nothing better for shoe sole reatchment, hole filling and general repairs. Cured Goo is comparable to decent shoe sole toughness.

TIPS: And example use-- I've been capping my steel toe boots with a heavy layer of black Goo for decades (Blk Goo looks 'good' on my blk boots and seems to weather a better)--wait till some good scuffing in toe leather and let leather get dried out-ideally for max adherance for new/rebuilt leather- then put only ONE COAT on as heavy as possible. It doesn't stick to itself well for a second aplication, but it will stick to most other pliable things if cleaned well and not slick-smooth, rubbing alcohol damp cotton rag good for final contact surface prep and wet-Goo cleanup.  When capping boot toes or heavy patching you may need to watch for first hr or so as Goo will sag with it's own weight until slightly solidified, keep rotating the boot every several min. to 15 min. intervals until you are confident Goo no longer prone to flow toward the center of earth, then prop boots upside down careful to keep goo area out of contact with anything and favor toe-tip aiming down for heaviest layer there. (Upside down with toe low keeps the Goo thick where you need it most but if it's too wet it will bulg too much and rinkle--it is possible to accomplish a smooth 'professional' appearance.) Then check ocassionally for another hour or three and reposition if needed to maintain uniform-ish thickness and smooth surface. If the front of boot is slightly delaminating or otherwise needing some build up--work the Goo into the splits and gaps first and then merge imediately with big 'glob' smeared on toe. First work into leather medium thick coat with 'popsicle stick' type thing to make sure it's filling all the holes and cracks and making full contact then immediatly aply heavy coat so both (all) layers become one--flow together. Fill, splice and cap in one continuous aplication unless you need to pull major seperations back together in prior step(s)--wide masking tape usually works to hold things together for first day curing if needed. Taper off and end Goo area just short of wrinkle area behind steel/stiff toe area so that it won't be prone to peeling at the edges. ((I don't necessarily recomend it but I sometimes light the very heavy fresh wet Goo on fire -after done spreading and ready to cure- to quickly decrease solvent and increase viscosity, just for a FEW SECONDS then blow it out--if you let it get hot you will lose control of fire and cook Goo and shoe, not to mention your neighborhood!-- once or thrice letting cool in between, dramatically reduces initial cure time and need to fuss and rotate boots in first minutes/hrs, a little too much burn and the surface gets perminately wrinkled or worse damaged.  A few minutes close to a heat lamp might be a better bet for same effect. U need good ventilation regardless.))  Put 'project' outside as soon as possible to minimize fume exposure.  After a few days to cure it is good to go for years of abusive boot/shoe service usually.

((NOTE: Clear Goo may be better for some applications but I prefer black usually and it should weather UV sunlight much better then clear. Also I have been experimenting with storing in the shop freezer to extend life of opened tubes and that seems to help a lot--along with silicones, etc.))

Many other possible uses. After ductape, nails, guns and gasoline--Shoe Goo is a must have for any shop or home for any real man. ;)