If you want the real heavy 501's order the dark stonewash all the others are thiner more "fashionable". I order two pairs about every 9 months and thats all I wear, everyday. I have tried some of the other "washes" but the dark stonewash is the one you want if you want the heavy "work" pants. I will also say, they all fit differently depending on where in the world they are made. The Mexico made ones I find fit the best. I for one would love to see levi bring back at least some production of 501's back to the states! I have written to them to say as much.