The audience made up of humans and dogs watched with approval as US ambassador Patricia A. Butenis presented a donation of Rs.10,000 to Sagarika Rajakarunanayake, to honour her role in helping street dogs or in her words “community dogs” through Sathva Mithra, the organization she set up for this purpose.
Four years ago, she was successful in encouraging the government to adopt a “no kill” directive for the street dogs. Her drive was to administer the anti rabies vaccines to them and sterilize them instead. Sagarika founded Sathva Mithra in 1993 in a bid to help animals in need and fight for their cause.
American Chamber of Commerce Vice President, Vijaya M.B. Ratnayake, said, “There are many organizations in Sri Lanka working to boost the conditions of animals in the country. While others work at housing these animals, Sagarika attempts to get these street dogs sterilized.
Sterilizing a dog costs about Rs 1,800 and that’s a lot of money. In order to accomplish this endeavour, she needs help.”
For Sagarika, ‘community dogs’ are part of each person’s life.
“The dogs living on the streets are part of our lives. They are the community dogs and they survive because people feed them,” Sagarika explains.
She herself has rescued about eight dogs and a dozen cats from hideous conditions, and they have a home with her. Among them is Mac, a daschund, with a spinal injury which she nursed back to health.
Asked when the affinity towards helping needy animals began, she reminisces that since childhood, she had always been interested in helping animals. “I inherited this tendency from my mother. She used to bring in animals from the streets that needed help. I grew up experiencing this.”
US ambassador Patricia A. Butenis herself an animal lover selected Sagarika’s organization as the beneficiary for part proceeds of the money collected at the Ambassador’s ball which is provided to the organization of the Ambassador’s choice.
The canines present on the occasion belonged to Shevanthi Jayasuriya, who had come with the dogs she had rescued from the streets to support her friend.
“It is due to her single handed campaigning that the no kill policy was brought into place. As an animal lover I admire Sagarika’s work and her efforts to help animals,” Shevanthi said.


There are so many canine breeds out there it can really become a challenge in picking the best breeds of dogs. There is a huge interest of dog pickers searching online seeking to find the best breeds of dogs and as well as those who are naturally good for kids. There are pure bred dogs as well as mixed breeds dogs to consider and making a decisive choice in finding the best candidate for the job can be exasperating. Mix breeds are abundant and can make excellent pets, as often times they possess the best qualities of the different breeds that they come from. These dogs are often available for free or at low cost and can be one of the best dog breed for kids as well.
When I was a baby, my parents owned a German shepherd that really loved to play. This dog’s favorite game was not pinning the donkey, but instead he had his own version known as pin the baby. So when I started to learn how to crawl and he saw me crawling across the floor, he would take his front paw and pin me to the floor. At this point, I would start to cry and then he would let me go long enough for me to stop fussing, and then he would pin me to the floor all over again. He seemed very amused at my expense, although he never hurt me. In fact, this German shepherd breed was very protective, as he would not let a stranger near me and would become very aggressive until that person or other animal backed off and kept their distance. He definitely made the best dog breed for kids to say the least in my opinion.
So if you are looking for the best dog breed for kids, you may want to take a look at the German shepherd breed as a viable candidate for your overall consideration. This canine breed can be very protective and you can understand why police departments use them worldwide as guard dogs. Therefore in your quest for the type of dog that would best suite your needs, keep in mind that of all the canine breeds available, the German shepherd breed should be on the top of your- What type of dog should I get list? They instinctively have all the right stuff for anyone looking for the best breeds of dogs, especially when it comes to kids.


Kili & Truman are moving to the new house where Santina has already been in quarantine. Now that Santina is clear of infection and moved to the big room, the smaller room - originally planned for cages - is now vacant. Having had a powder coat steel cage for Kili and aluminum Kings cage for Truman, I knew immediately what I'd be getting the birds at the new house.
After having Truman and his cage for 4 years, I continue to stand by the original review I did of the aluminum cage. It's expensive and it's not perfect. But it's the best cage for the money hands down. Powder coat cages just aren't sufficient in quality. Inevitably after a lot of use and washing, the coating comes off and they rust. Stainless steel cages are unbearably expensive. The aluminum cage is lighter in weight, easy to assemble, and overall good quality.
For the price, I think the aluminum cage line provides the best bang for the buck. At roughly double the price of a comparable powder coat cage, you get the benefit of non-corrosiveness that you can get from stainless steel at even twice more. As you folks probably know by now, I'm more value driven. I don't mind spending more but I hate spending more when I don't feel a sufficient benefit to justify the price. That's why I think a cage made from aluminum is the perfect compromise.
When you think about the long lifespan of a parrot and estimate the value you will get out of a cage, paying more up front for a cage makes more sense. Let's say the parrot will live 20+ years but the cage won't even make it that far. Depending on how bad you're willing to let the cage get before replacing it, I'd say it is reasonable to say that 5-10 years is realistic for the powder coat and 10-20 for the aluminum. Stainless might last even longer but if it's poor quality stainless it might not. Usually the hardware, hinges, food doors, etc will fail before the bars and the hassle will make the cage need replacement regardless. So if the aluminum cage can solidly last twice as long, at about twice the price it's a good deal. This is because you're getting a better cage with thicker bars during that time. There won't be any rust or chipping even when the cage begins to be less than desirable to keep.
Only one company makes aluminum parrot cages so there's no shopping around, Kings Cages. There is only one cage design to choose from but two sizes. I just call them the small aluminum cage and the big one. Kili is getting the small one which measures in at a sizable 25"x22"x45". This cage has 5/8" bar spacing and is great for Senegal Parrots, Conures, Cockatiels, Quakers, and other similar sized parrots. Considering that Kili is moving up from a 18x18x32 powder coat cage, it's an immediately obvious improvement. Back when I got Kili and that cage, I didn't know any better and until I was moving didn't find the chance to replace it. Truman on the other hand is getting a new version of the same cage he used to have as well. This one is 33"x25"x49" and makes a good sized cage for a Cape Parrot, Timneh Grey, Galah, or Smaller Amazon. I'm not sure if I would keep a CAG in this cage though. Maybe a smaller CAG yes but not the really big 600g ones.
The Aluminum Kings cages in 2 sizes come in 3 styles: standard, arch top, and play top. To me, all but the dometop are a waste of money. The playtop is expensive and not beneficial. Parrots will play on top of their cages with or without one and frankly a separate tree or stand is much better to have. The standard cage loses a lot of good living space without the archtop (playtop version included). For just a few $100 more and not a substantial amount in proportion to the main price, the living space is greatly expanded. There is a downside to the dometop though. Clumsy and baby birds can have trouble climbing around on it. When Truman was a baby he used to have trouble getting around and would fall off. But for agile adult birds this is no factor. It's also a bit of a pain trying to reach up and around to clean the dometop from inside.
I am handy with tools so the fact that the Kings Cage is so easy to put together plays little role. But, for most consumers this is a huge plus. It comes in just 8 pieces and all but the top two of the arch just snap together. The arch top connects with just 4 standard screws. Assembly is easy but you must pay attention that alignment is perfect or it won't come together. It only took 10 minutes to assemble the small cage by myself and then 10 minutes to assemble the big one with the help of my brother.
As I said in my first review, I don't like the wood dowels and plastic food cups.I immediately replace these with stainless steel cups and natural or NU Perches. The cage is actually a bit harder to clean than the powder coat one but not substantially enough to make it less worthy. The lighter weight and mobility make up for that. Another issue is plastic handles for the food doors can potentially be chewed off by any parrot. Most of the flaws are little nit picks and nuisances whereas the cage overall is solid, durable, and reliable.
So is it my dream cage? Does it have every feature/quality I'd want in a bird cage? No. But it is by far the best quality and value cage I have encountered and the one that I choose for my parrots Kili & Truman.
I have now had Santina for over 3 months but because of her questionable health, I had to keep her separate from Kili and Truman on prolonged quarantine. Now that she has taken medication and her infection cleared up, things are all set for the introduction.
Since it is difficult to impossible to truly disinfect colored toys and large porous perches, I opted to play it safe and discard all of the old stuff. Having already spent thousands on her vet care, what is loosing a few toys to make sure this illness doesn't rear its ugly head again? Since Santina would need a new stand in the big room anyway, I took this opportunity to set things for the long run.
I bought a ton of different branches and got to work piecing them together for a macaw megastand. This one incorporates more branches than the original and is entirely free hanging for easy cleaning. I also think that hanging stands are ultimately more natural for birds because they incorporate some natural motion and sway. This stand is so big and heavy that it is stable enough that Santina was not bothered by it. In fact one of the first things she did was to climb up to a high swing mounted on the already hanging structure.
Santina spent all day watching me build her new housing so she was more prepared for it when the time came to try. A tour of the room and features coming soon but in the meantime here are photos and video of Santina's new crib.
Let's talk about big birds and cages. I'm not doing this to make anyone feel bad but hopefully to inspire people to do better. I know I've made mistakes with cage sizes and want to help you realize some of the conclusions I have come to.
I'm gonna play novice bird owner/shopper. So I decide to get myself a macaw so I go to google and search for parrot cages. I pull up the first site I find and look how convenient, it says I can search by "breed" (breed, really?) for cages. Anyway, they have a Macaw breed so I know this must be the right kinda cage. I figure I won't splurge out and get the top of the line but I don't want low end either so I find something mid-priced of what they have. $550 gets me 40x30x66 in powder coat. Not the smallest nor the biggest macaw cage (although the biggest ones offered are barely bigger at 48x34x70) while the smaller ones aren't even 3 feet wide.
I don't know Santina's measurements yet but let's say from wikipedia it says Greenwings are up to 37" head to tail and 49" wingspan. Holy moly, a 49" bird in a 36 to 48" cage? Maybe if we trim off the wingtips a little it could just make it if it stands in the very center of its perch!? We think budgies get shafted with those tiny cages but they can hop and sort of fly in those! The big birds are the ones who really have it badly. Worse yet, those "macaw cages" usually can fit only a single perch (will be lucky if it's not a dowel!). The bird's tail is so long that if you put a perch lower its tail will drag and if you put a perch higher, it will hit its head.
I have often likened keeping a Green Winged Macaw in a "macaw cage" to keeping a cockatiel in a shoebox. Well my friend Ginger, who runs a rescue for Senegal Parrots and Cockatiels, did a little measuring for me. Turns out a Cockatiel's wingspan is about 14 inches and a typical shoebox about 12 inches long. That is a bird confined to a space smaller than its wingspan. Yet even the most modest of Cockatiel cages are 16-20 inches across. Ginger states that, "The cage most of the Cockatiels come in is the same kind from petco: 20 long, 16 wide, and 33 inches high but it's really not that much as it is a dome." Not that I advocate such a small cage for a Cockatiel, the bird still has more than a wingspan of width and 2-3 height levels it can climb to. This at least provides space for a modest variety of perches, wing stretching, and some activity.
Yet the cages marketed for macaws don't span up. I know $500 or $1000 on a cage sounds like a lot of money and that it must buy something fantastic. But price and seller offerings have nothing to do with what birds actually require. We're not even talking about getting a super roomy cage here, just the bare minimums.
Imagine being confined in a room or space small enough that you cannot stand up or extend your arms all the way? That wouldn't even be considered a room but more like a box! We take for granted having enough space to at least be able to stretch in any direction. Convicts, murders, and rapists have more space in their jail cells (typically 6'x8') than a perfectly innocent, beautiful, loving, and adored macaw has in its cage.
Without knowing Santina's actual dimensions yet, I can tell you that she takes up all of her 32x22x22 plastic carrier. She can travel in it but I would not expect her to be able to live in it. I cannot begin to imagine keeping her in a cage this isn't even double that size (most are 48x30x60 or less)! I'm not trying to harp on people who have macaws in cages just because I have Santina in a room. I haven't given this as much thought until now. This is more to discourage people from getting macaws in the first place without having sufficient space for an entire bird room or aviary and to encourage those who already have macaws to find ways to get them more space. The absolute maximum size macaw cage available really only meets absolute minimum size requirements.
We need to stop thinking of parrots just in terms of their body. We must also take into consideration their wingspan. I think because many birds are clipped and don't fly, people are not accustomed to seeing those wings in full but they still need to be able to stretch and flap in their cage. I do think that a lot of out of cage time, outdoor time, training, flight, enrichment, and activity can make up to a large extent for an undersized cage, however, the cage must still meet the following minimum requirements:
1) The bar spacing must be appropriate and safe 2) The bird must be able to open its wings in full if it wants to 3) The cage must be able to accommodate an absolute minimum of 3 different perches that the bird can access
These are the absolute minimum requirements for a long-term bird cage not to be animal cruelty in my opinion. We should strive to give them as much space as we possibly can but if a cage does not meet those minimums, it should not even be considered.
One problem I've run into when chatting with savy parrot owners is that it was difficult to impossible to establish baseline cage minimums with them. Everyone had a different opinion on the subject and many people would take whatever the minimum used to be and add a few inches and call that the minimum. I think it is well intentioned and I hope everyone strives to go well beyond the minimum. However, there has to be some kind of minimum in place below which it is just not acceptable and that is the one based on wingspan and perch quantity. Without this concrete minimum, it is hard to say and compare what kind of parrot personality requires what kind of size. All other personality/species differences can be added on top of this but no cage should ever be smaller (except perhaps in the case of a specially handicapped, baby, or injured bird). If you want me to make a general suggestion about what I think a good cage size is as opposed to the minimum, I would say double the minimum is a great place to be or the biggest thing above minimum that you can possibly accomplish.
Out of interest sake I measured Kili & Truman's wingspans for some comparisons. What is the wingspan of a Senegal Parrot? Kili is a below average sized female Senegal Parrot with a wingspan of 18 inches. Ever wondered what a Cape Parrot's Wingspan is? Truman who is a mid to large sized Brown-Necked Cape Parrot has a wingspan of 26 inches! Who would think it's so much just by looking at them. Folded up, these birds don't exceed 12 inches in any direction. Now let's see how their cages size up.
Kili's cage is 18x18x30 Truman's cage is 33x25x67 (though domed top)
I don't think Kili's cage is big enough but it's what I naively picked because I didn't know any better back then. I didn't find it worthwhile to throw it out to get something a little bigger so instead I focused on out of cage, aviary, and outdoor time. When Kili moves to my new place, she'll be getting a 25x22x63 aluminum dome cage just like Truman's. If Truman plays nice with Santina and I can leave them out together in the big room, Kili can have the entire little room with an open cage policy. If not, then Kili & Truman can have cages in the small room Santina currently occupies. These guys grew up in cages and are used to them.
Kili's cage works out to a full wingspan wide for her and she has 4 perches. So while unfortunately on the minimum end, I would consider this an acceptable cage (but hope for bigger). Truman's cage is 1.8 wingspans wide and has enough room for 5 perches, loads of toys, and still a lot of unoccupied space. That is a much better cage size for a Cape, Grey, or Amazon parrot. Ideally I would like a bit bigger but this is as big as aluminum cages come. The compromise for having an uncoated and corrosion proof cage is worth it.
Now that you've heard my thoughts about absolute minimum cage size, measure or research your parrot's actual wingspan and compare it to the cage size. If it is more than the size of the cage or the cage doesn't have a minimum of 3 different perches the bird can spend time on, get a bigger cage! If you're looking to acquire a big parrot (whether from store, breeder, or rescue), don't listen to them for a second about cage size if it doesn't at least meet those 3 minimum rules and really look for bigger. The time has come for savy parrot owners to take a stance and say it is not acceptable to keep birds in cages that they cannot fit in fully. Then take it one step further and provide the biggest cage or living space that you can. Your parrot spends more time in your house than you do so it's definitely worth it.
Check out Santina going back to cage room and climbing up:
A very common question parrot owners ask is how much time should my parrot spend out of the cage? Or they ask what are the minimum number of hours my ________ (fill in the species) needs to spend outside of the cage every day? The problem with this question is that it asks for a quantitative answer to a qualitative question. Here's my answer. It doesn't matter how long your parrot spends outside of the cage every day! What matters is how it spends its time out of the cage!
Too many parrots get their wings clipped and placed on a tree for hours at a time. The tree thus serves as nothing more than another cage! The bird cannot leave the tree and do what it truly wants (at least within the confines of the house). I'm not saying it's bad to put your bird into different “cages” throughout the day for variety but if the bird isn't free, this isn't “out of cage” time.
In the case of social companion parrots, the parrot wants to spend time with you do and do what you do. Putting the parrot down on a stand while you check email is no less boring to the bird than sitting in the cage. Out of cage time needs to serve as interactive time between you and your parrot for it to really count. The parrot needs to be part of what you are doing and you must be part of what your parrot is doing. No quantity of hours sitting out can replace this.
Parrots want to be in the middle of everything, the center of attention, and do what you do. They cannot be content being a passive part of your life.
Cage vs tree
Is the tree not just another cage if the parrot isn't free to go elsewhere by flight? You wouldn't realize how much your parrot likes or doesn't like its tree unless you can observe it choosing to go there or choosing to leave. Despite how awesome I thought this tree is, it took Truman less time to get bored of it than it took me to build it!
The other issue is that some parrots don't really want to be out. In that case, forcing out of cage time only harms your relationship. Grabbing a parrot out of the cage with a towel to make it serve it's mandated “out of cage time” only makes the relationship even worse. It will only cause stress and distrust. The parrot will not enjoy that time and even though it received out of cage time, it entirely missed the purpose of that time. To achieve a great relationship, the parrot should want to come out and to spend time with you. When you use some of the out of cage time to serve positive interactive purposes such as trick training, it sets real goals for your parrot and reasons to want to be out.
If the parrot isn't enjoying being out, out of cage time is actually doing more harm than good!
Use target training to teach parrots to enjoy coming out of the cage
Parrots enjoying meaningful out of cage time (playing with toys) while exhibiting acceptable behavior. I want to encourage as much out of cage time like this as possible but put them away before they can get bored of toys and engage in nuisance behavior
Actually, I don't think there is a minimum amount of out of cage time. Rather there is a minimum amount of daily interaction, minimum amount of positive reinforcement, minimum amount of flying exercise, and minimum amount of a love that a parrot must have. These minimums aren't known so it is best to give as much as possible that your parrot wants to ensure you are not below minimum (as we all know parrots that don't get enough of these may resort to behavioral problems such as plucking).
In terms of good behavior, less is more. It is actually easier to set a maximum value for out of cage time for parrots than minimums. Although the parrot may wish to be out to interact and play as much as possible, if we let the parrot stay out too long, inevitably undesirable behavior will ensue. Almost no companion parrot can spend all day out of the cage without resorting to doing things that annoy us. Whether it's chewing up furniture, screaming, flying to us endlessly, nipping/biting people, or getting in fights with the rest of the flock, these are all the results of boredom from being out too long. To make the most of your parrot's out of cage time, perform parrot training and keep interactions direct and focused. However, put the parrot back in the cage before it has the opportunity to turn to nuisance behavior. If the parrot becomes accustomed to spending too much time out of the cage, it will be less inclined to be well-behaved and more likely turn to nuisance behavior to seek attention or entertain itself. You must use preemptive measures to keep the parrot trained or occupied. However, eventually these run out. The parrot is no longer hungry for training rewards, the parrot has had its fill of attention, etc. This is when the parrot turns to nipping the owner for fun or attention, chewing the curtains, attacking others, etc. Worse yet, whatever you end up doing in response to such undesired behavior (hurt parrot, put parrot away, yell at parrot, say 'no', etc), will only make things worse. The bad behavior is already learned and the parrot becomes reinforced to seek your attention with it.
Put the parrot back into its cage before the onset of bad behavior. Work on increasing duration with time
Thus the parrot must be put away into the cage while things are still good. Leave some desire for next time to enjoy being out. Keeping out of cage time short but well-behaved is far better than long and chaotic (the parrot will hurt itself or the owner will burn out before you know it). As the parrot develops good habits during short but guided out of cage sessions, it will become more accustomed to behave that way whenever out. You can progressively have the parrot out for longer durations but the habitual good behavior will persist for longer spans of out of cage time!
For new parrot owners or owners with problematic parrots, doing short target training sessions for spans of 5-10 minutes and then putting the parrot away for a meal in the cage is a great way to start building up good behavior. You can progressively expand durations of time and introduce more play/interaction with time. Before you know it the parrot can be spending hours out where the parrot behaves in an acceptable manner to people and the parrot gets to enjoy the things it wants while out.
Out of cage time provides room for flying
One of the top benefits of out of cage time to a bird is the space to fly. The cage almost never provides room to fly and even most outdoor aviaries are inadequate. However, in the space of your living room, the parrot has the space to stretch its wings and exercise. The parrot does not need to be flying all day long to get exercise but to make up for all the time on its legs in the cage, getting to fly while out is essential.
The other type of out of cage time we must seek to offer is out of [house] cage time. Taking your parrot outdoors is very enriching. The sights, sounds, smells, etc are all something different for the parrot to take in. Also the bird requires outdoor time for its health (vitamin D and calcium production). Use a harness to take your parrot outdoors as much as possible. Inevitably this turns into focused together time and is a top way to provide valuable out of cage time.
Outdoor time provides some of the best benefits of out of cage time: fresh air, exercise, sunshine, enrichment
It is good to have a fair amount of predictable routine for your parrot when it comes to the out of cage time schedule. Give your parrot something to look forward to every day. But once in a while, break it up. Some days take your parrot out for longer, take your parrot some place outdoors, or leave it in its cage entirely. This helps the parrot adjust to a more varied lifestyle and prepare it for any changes. The parrot should enjoy out of cage time but it shouldn't be helpless without it.
So rather than imposing silly minimums like "A budgie should get at least 30 minutes a day of out of cage time, a conure should spend an hour outside of the cage, an African grey should get at least 3 hours of out of cage time, and a cockatoo needs to spend all day with you," you should put far more focus on the quality of time the parrot spends outside the cage instead. This is the out of cage time that truly matters. That said, try to provide as much out of cage time as you are able but instead of stressing about the exact amount, focus on making it more interactive, exercising, and stimulating for your parrot.
The out of cage time should be both enjoyable to the parrot but also to the owner. There must be balance such that both owner and parrot are happy for this long term arrangement to last. Keep early out of cage times short and sweet but stretch your parrot's endurance. Practice having the parrot out longer and longer but be sure to put the bird away before things can get bad. Having a well-behaved parrot that enjoys its out of cage time is a win/win for everybody.
I have been preparing to move to a new house for over a year now. The renovations have been ongoing and delayed. As a part of the move, I had a big bird room being built and this was an opportunity to house any sized parrot I could dream of.
About this time last year I began looking into acquiring a baby Green-Winged Macaw. I was on a waiting list for a baby once eggs were hatched. Infertile eggs and cold temperatures kept pushing things back until what was supposed to be my baby hatched in the spring. The plan was to acquire an unweened baby macaw to be trained for outdoor freeflight. By that point, I have been noting tremendous success indoor freeflying Kili & Truman and craved the challenge of flying a parrot outside. But according to most expert sources that I had encountered, the consensus was that you can only succeed with outdoor freeflight with a large parrot that was weened by the trainer. Furthermore the bird was to become a performer much like Kili & Truman and I was warned that anything but a baby might not be good for that purpose.
Note: hand feeding unweened baby parrots and/or outdoor freeflight bears a high level of risk and is complicated beyond the scope of any advice I can give. Virtually all pet parrot owners should not attempt either and those who do should seek out expert advice.
I don't believe in adopting rescue birds just because or simply out of sympathy. I see a lot of people in the bird community burn out because of these reasons. I think rescue parrots should be adopted on merit and benefit to bird and owner. There are too many reasons to go over here but there are definite pros/cons to adopting and there are plenty of cases where adopting a rescue rivals getting a baby. I may write another article later about how it turned out better to adopt Santina.
Finding the right rescue is not necessarily an easy matter either. You have to research around and find the right rescue with the right attitude and most importantly the right bird for you! This may require some distant travel but for a bird that will live with you a lifetime is not something to skimp on! I had already been looking nationwide for a suitable baby so distance made little difference on finding a rescue. When I learned that Lazicki's Bird House & Rescue is in Rhode Island, that felt like right in my backyard compared to the far search I had been making.
The first thing you want to learn when choosing a rescue (after all there are many bird rescues but you only have the ability to support one at a time) is about their reputation in the bird community. Talk to local bird clubs, people who have adopted from that rescue, and volunteers at that rescue to get an impression what it's all about. I was hearing about Lazicki's in the news, from other rescues, and from adopters so I already had a favorable first impression. The rescue had several Green-Winged Macaws but everyone thought off the bat that Santina would be the right one for me. Given that those people have been around the bird and I haven't it was wise to take their advice and then test it out for myself. The next step was to go and visit the rescue and the bird.
To an extent it does matter what kind of care the rescue provides the birds. Naturally supporters of rescues want to support the ones that do a good job and let the ones that do a poor job go bust. However, it is impossible to hold them to the highest standards. They do things on a tight budget, they have a lot of birds, etc. So discounting these things, the things to look for are that the birds are healthy, treated properly, and that the rescue's policies are acceptable. Things like cleanliness, out of cage time, cage size, etc can be discounted from ideal (as long as they are not abysmal) as the rescue is only a temporary location for the birds. You want to look for minimum standards being met at the rescue and use that as an opportunity to provide maximum ones in your own home.
I won't spend too much time commenting on the appearance of the rescue facility when I visited because they will have moved to a new location by the time this article is released. So there's no sense in analyzing the facility I was visiting that they were in the process of replacing. The things that I didn't like were much the same as would be the case in most any rescue: the birds are clipped, not trained, cages are too small, etc. What was more important was that the rescue was open to the ideas of training, flight, cage-free lifestyle, etc. What I would not accept is a rescue that would mandate me to clip the bird or engage in similar unacceptable practices. I did not have any expectations to find a flighted rescue macaw.
I visited the rescue a month prior to adoption to meet Santina and go over preparations I would need to make in order to adopt her. We discussed diet, space requirements, behavior, and medical care. Santina did not want to step up for me but Steve did put her on my arm. She gave me a few nips but otherwise was content to just sit on my arm and preen herself. What I found was that she is not aggressive but rather regressive. In other words she does not come over to bite you but if you come after her, then she will. This is a much easier situation to work with. Just don't do the things that make the bird have to defend itself (and that is usually unwanted handling).
When it comes to adoption fee, I was not particularly interested. I knew it would be less than I had already agreed to pay for a baby but more importantly I knew it would be negligible compared to the cost of keeping the parrot long term. In a single year that bird could chew through more toys, food, or perches than the price I'd pay for her at the rescue. In fact, without even knowing what the adoption fee would normally be, I offered $1000 to the rescue for hooking me up with such an awesome bird. I had since learned that I donated double what the adoption fee would have been. I'm glad that I did because the rescue can really use the help right now and they had done the best they could for what would become my bird! You can't put a price on a living/loving creature; you can only do your best to support the rescue/store/breeder for being a temporary care giver. This is why I want to encourage everyone to give as much as you can to rescues and don't look at it as a cheap alternative. Nothing about keeping parrots is cheap. (In making preparations with the avian vet for Santina's upcoming first visit, I learned that it would cost over $800 for all the testing she would require. I would have felt terrible if I had paid any less an adoption fee for the entire bird!)
Steve, the founder of the rescue, is a nice guy (even if he tells you that he doesn't give a damn about you as long as the bird is ok!). His heart is in the right place and he is foremost concerned about the long term welfare of the birds. He shares my view that flight is essential for parrots and that they enjoy working for food (even if they are unable to provide those opportunities at the rescue). On adoption day, Steve and I went over pictures of the place I'd be keeping Santina and took care of some paperwork. Then we went over to check out Santina. I could tell that she did not want to step up for me so I tried to divert the animosity by chatting with Steve nearby.
I learned that Santina was hatched on September 13, 1999, had a single owner who had to give her up for personal medical reasons, and that she had a tendency to hate men. Also it turned out Santina was previously named Santino and thought to be a male until she laid an egg at the rescue. Otherwise little is known about her past and I would be left to discover her behavior and personality on my own.
Santina did not want to step onto my arm and tried to bite. Steve forced her onto my arm and then Santina gave my arm a bit of a bite. There's no question why she bit. She did not want to go and then was forced to so she bit in order to not have to be on my arm. A large part of the problem was that the bird was bonded to Steve, had nothing to gain, and everything to lose by stepping up for me. She was already fed, uninterested, and defensive. She could not be sure if I was sturdy or safe so her best course of action was to bite rather than step up. This is one place I fault the rescue on not using socialization techniques to make visitors a highlight of the birds' day rather than a downside. It certainly makes the prospect and decision of adopting a parrot that does little more than bite you quite a difficult one.
The decision to adopt Santina was bitter-sweet. From a logical stand point she was a good bird, the right kind, and had a lot of potential. But in the introductory phase there was little bond or relationship between us that would be indicative of any sort of preference. Furthermore the rescue gave me little stimulation that the bird was ideal for me. Most of what I was hearing was about how I'd be ideal for the bird and little the other way around. What I had to remind myself of was the fact that a clever rescue could have just as well manipulated the situation (like a used car salesman) to make it seem like a good idea. Ultimately the decision and the risk was entirely mine. I decided that with my training capability I should be able to turn any bird around regardless if it chose me or not.
Santina did not want to go into the carrier. Let me rephrase that, she desperately did not want to go into the carrier and Steve had to do a double take to shove her in. Absolutely not the approach I'd wanna use but this was not the time to stand around figuring it out. I learned that Santina is phobic of carriers during that episode and also while walking her near a carrier since. Once in the carrier, I wasted no time loading her in the car and heading home.
The giant macaw clung to the bars during the span of most of the car ride despite the perch I put inside for her. At home I opened the door and tried to coax her out. After the bites she had given me at the rescue I was a bit leery of putting my arm in a confined space with her. Worse yet, every time I reached in her beak would come for me so I was unsure if she was using it to hold on or bite. Eventually I just bit the bullet and went for it and I was relieved to know that she was trying to step up rather than bite. I took her out and set her up in the smaller of the two bird rooms that will provide her temporary lodging. Since she has been accustomed to a cage for so long, I did not want to overwhelm her by letting her loose in the big room all at once.
Within 24 hours Santina has been stepping up for me, dancing, and taking scratches. This will be the subject of future blog posts so be sure to check back. In the meantime, here is the video of Santina at the rescue and coming home!


The following story occurred at a weekly Thursday Outreach Pop-up event.
“During the Thursday Pop-up, two of our regular clients came running to the tent carrying a lifeless dog and asking for help.” Reported Jason Cates, Outreach Programs Manager with the Coalition.
“The dog was quickly assessed. It had no apparent injuries, respirations were not adequate, and it was unresponsive. The clients were questioned about the condition of the dog, in which they stated that they just found the dog like that. I asked could the dog have possibly ingested an opiate, and the client stated yes. The dog was given one 8mg dose of Kloxxado, a nasal spray to reverse the effect of an opioid overdose. Shortly after, the dog began breathing more rapidly, the decision was made to transport the dog to a pet ER and was handed over to a higher level of care without further incident.”
Cates reflects, “Without the quick thinking of the clients and the Outreach Team, the dog could have passed away at the Pop-up.”
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If any of your pets have already crossed the Rainbow Bridge you’ll love this condolence gift that I’ve put together in honor of my late soulmate dog, Riley..and it’s also a celebration gift in honor of Cutie and Benji. What? A pet condolence gift OR a celebration gift? Either one? Yes! and it’s straight from Sedona.
We love our pets, let’s start there.
And if you know me, you know that my Riley’s death was difficult … and if you knew HIM you know why it was. At the same time the arrival of our two rescue dogs, Cutie and Benji has been healing. Two sides of the same coin.
So when I saw these cute little pottery hearts with paw prints (and a hole punched for a cord or chain) in Sedona I knew I’d offer them to you.
They’re a beautiful way to honor a pet for “gotcha day” or to remember one who has crossed the Rainbow Bridge.
If you’d like to gift a pet-lover with a beautiful candle that comes with the paw print pottery pendant, you can do that with a 4-oz. candle or a 10-oz. candle.
The candles are unscented and loaded with healing crystals and beautiful botanicals. Each is one of a kind, hand-poured soy, eco-friendly and are long burning–with no soot.
Wouldn’t it be a great way to celebrate a new pet joining a family? If someone you love has a new pet, I hope you’ll consider it.
And–what a beautiful pet condolence gift. I know it would’ve been just the right thing in memory of Riley. If someone you care about has lost a pet, I hope you’ll consider it.
I offer them to you in his memory, to honor my precious Benji & Cutie….and to honor your pet or that of a loved one.
Product includes candle and pendant. And as always, budget-friendly.


Who among us has not been nearly yanked off our feet but an over exuberant dog ! Being a dog is all about joy and getting where you are going as fast as you possibly can. If you have 4 legs why not use them ? The pathetic bi-ped holding on for dear life in your wake can just hurry along right ? Well, not so much….
If you’ve attempted to walk a high energy dog who is curious about everything in his path and attempts to drag you around the neighborhood to see the sights it might be time to teach him some leash manners ! There are not many among us who look forward to walks with a dog we can barely control and honestly the dogs aren’t all that happy either. Though they look like they are having a good time many dogs who are out of control get into all kinds of trouble on leash which causes them alot of anxiety making the problem far worse then it needs to be. This week we are going to stop the insanity !! Time to teach your dog some leash manners.
I have good news and bad news. The good news is that it isn’t very hard to teach a dog to walk nicely on a leash. The bad news is it isn’t very interesting or exciting work and requires a lot of practice to get good at it. However, the payoff will be a dog that walks with you on your adventures so that you enjoy rather than dread your neighborhood constitutionals.
First of all do yourself a huge favor and invest in an Easy Walk Harness by Premier. They can be found in most pet stores and though they are a little pricey they are worth every penny. They come in small, medium, large and x large as well as in between sizes labeled Small/Medium and Medium/Large. The tweener sizes can be purchased either online or through the MSPCA in Boston or Methuen (call first to check on availability). This harness has the leash clip in the front of the chest, which helps the dog learn not to pull by changing his center of gravity. When he pulls it makes him feel off balance so he slows down a bit. Is it a miracle ? No, you will still have to teach him to walk nicely next to you but you’ll have the advantage because he won’t be pulling quite so much and you will have more opportunities to reward him.
When you start teaching your dog to walk nicely on a leash, attach the leash to either his regular collar or to the harness and start walking. As soon as you notice that your dog is next to you, even for a second, click, stop and deliver the treat right next to your leg. Be exaggerated about where he will get his reward, you want him to be coming and getting his treat right on your pant seam. This builds value for being next to you. Remember your dog has zero value for walking with you right now. It’s boring to walk so slowly and it’s not very exciting to be hanked around. Each click for walking with you and each treat delivery right on your leg will be building up a bank account of value for walking with you rather than pulling your arm off. If your dog starts to pull, turn and walk in the opposite direction and look down, when he catches up to you click, stop and deliver the treat on your leg. Repeat this until your dog starts to understand the game. You ‘ll know when you gets it because he won’t be pulling as much and he’ll keep looking up at you to make sure he knows where you are going next. Feel like a ping pong ball because your dog is launching to the end of the leash over and over again ? Slow it down and click and treat him every step or two at first so that he gets lots of reinforcement for slowing down and walking with you. Don’t try to build alot of steps at once, go for just 1 or 2 at first and then mix in the longer ones sporadically so that he never knows how long he must stay with you to get you to click.
Pay attention to the environment that you are working your dog in. If you have an excitable dog you can’t start outside on the street it’s too busy and you won’t get much teaching accomplished because your dog will be too distracted. Start indoors or in an empty parking lot and build a few steps at a time. Still struggling because he wants to yank you to ever sniffing spot ? When he hits the end of the leash, freeze in place and turn away from him. Wait until he finds you by looking back at you and click, then lure him in with a treat delivered close to your leg in the new direction. Some dogs need to practice this over and over again until he isn’t interested in exploring as much as he is interested in what you have. If you use really good treats and a hungry dog this will happen sooner than you know it.
Teaching your dog to walk nicely on a leash is about patience and repetition. It’s one of those behaviors that you just have to practice over and over again so that your dog gets good at it. Hope that this entry starts you well on your way to some pleasant strolls around your neighborhood. Happy walking !


Doing The Right Way
Animal pets, just like human beings require proper health care to keep them at ease and happy. Whether your cat or dog needs a simple fixing like grooming or a complex fixing such as a broken leg, choosing the right veterinary facility is crucial. Just as you would commit your time to check out a medical facility for your treatment, take a considerable time to a vet veterinary center for your pet. Here are some guidelines on how to select the right veterinary facility for your pet.
Check the location of the pet hospital. The veterinary facility should have proximity to your residence. This is because your pet can develop health problems that require urgent attention. You risk your pet dying if you have to cover a long distance to access the facility. Additionally, your pet is likely to suffer from anxiety by the time you arrive at the facility and this can worsen your unwell pet’s situation.
Consider if the pet hospital is accredited by the government and approved to render its services. Find out if the veterinarian has a valid license to operate a health center for pets. Do the staff in that veterinary center register. Ensure that you confirm all the papers from the hospital itself, down to its staff. The last thing you want is to have an untrained veterinarian perform a surgical procedure on your pet. Moreover, ensure that the pet hospital has advanced equipment and tools accurately carry out a diagnosis and offer treatment to your pet.
What are the charges for the pet hospital services? It is important to find out the overall cost of the pet health facility services before you receive any service from them to ensure that your pocket can comfortably accommodate their budget. Some pet hospitals are high-end and others are low-end. Ask prices from several other facilities and compare. However, be careful not to settle on a low-budget pet hospital that will compromise the quality of its services.
Find out what the pet hospital’s past customers have to say about them. The majority of the customers are very vocal and will not hesitate to express their satisfaction or dissatisfaction with the hospital’s services. The reviews on the pet hospital’s website are a good pointer to judge if it’s a reputable pet facility or not. Consider searching on the pet hospital’s social media platform and reading through comments of customers that have been served in the facility before. A reputable pet hospital communicates that it exhibits a high level of professionalism and has a strong code of ethics.
Inquire if the pet hospital will provide after-care services to your pet. For instance, if your pet underwent major surgery, and later develops a complication related to the surgery, is the pet hospital willing to step in and attend to it? If so, do not hesitate to select the hospital for your pet because this will give you peace of mind that the facility doors are open, in case your pet’s health situation does not improve.


An 11-year-old Pomeranian dog, which had been stolen from its London home over 12 months ago, has been found in Bangor, North Wales, nearly 300 miles from home.
Kiara the ‘Pomeranian’ has now been reunited with her owners Juan and Antoinette Mino, after being taken from their garden in London in August 2017.
Mr and Mrs Mino had given up all hope of finding Kiara until this weekend, when she wandered into Peter Daniel’s house in Bangor, he was then able to find Kiara’s owners via her microchip and the family were reunited.
Mr Daniel said he spotted two dogs going through his bins on Saturday before Kiara walked into his house and made herself at home. After putting posts on lost dog groups on Facebook, a woman volunteered to scan the dogs for microchips on Sunday and Kiara’s contained a phone number for her owners.
“They couldn’t get their heads around it, I can’t believe it myself,” Mr Daniel said. “While I was on the phone to the lady that owned the dog, her husband was getting in the car to drive the six or seven hours up here.”
Kiara’s owners had launched an extensive search after she went missing, distributing 500 lost dog posters, offering a reward and notifying lost dog agencies and councils. Mrs Mino said: “I’ve just been crying for days, I am so thankful.
“We are animal lovers and we have had dogs who have died before but with Kiara, we were always thinking ‘what’s happened to her? Was she ill-treated? Was she killed? Are they hitting her?
“It is so nice to have her back. My husband was home when she was stolen and he always felt guilty.”
Kiara will need some care and time to recover as it is believed she had been “living rough“ for several months. Mrs Mino added Kiara will have to be shaved by a vet, as her coated is knotted, she will also need health checks and vaccinations.
Mr Daniel is now looking after the Jack Russell who was found with Kiara and may permanently adopt the dog, which isn’t micro-chipped, if its owners cannot be found.
In a social media post Mr Daniel said: “Today we made a Christmas miracle for a lovely family in London who had there dog stolen in August 2017 we found her digging through bins in Wales yesterday morning, we found the owner and they have just driven straight 6 hours to Wales from London to collect there beloved dog. Microchips work people. Miracles do happen. Photo says it all.”
“The Jack Russell will be fostered, as he is abandoned after finding previous address of both dogs. if no genuine loving owners that he may have been taken from are looking for him he will be given a forever home here. Currently fast asleep on me.”
Peter Daniel with the Jack Russell he will adopt if the owners can’t be found
Main Photo (Top) Juan Mino was reunited with Kiara in Bangor more than a year after she was stolen from his garden in London


Koi is an informal group of the colored variants of the Amur carp. Several varieties are recognized by the Japanese. Koi varieties are distinguished by coloration, patterning, and scalation. Some of the major colors are white, black, red, orange, yellow, blue, and cream.Carp are a large group of fish originally found in Central Europe and Asia. Various carp species were originally domesticated in East Asia, where they were used as food fish. Carp are coldwater fish, and their ability to survive and adapt to many climates and water conditions allowed the domesticated species to be propagated to many new locations
The goldfish (Carassius auratus) is a freshwater fish . It is one of the most commonly kept aquarium fish.Goldfish have strong associative learning abilities, as well as social learning skills. In addition, their visual acuity allows them to distinguish between individual humans. Owners may notice that fish react favorably to them (swimming to the front of the glass, swimming rapidly around the tank, and going to the surface mouthing for food) while hiding when other people approach the tank. Over time, goldfish learn to associate their owners and other humans with food, often "begging" for food whenever their owners approach.
Oscars will often lay claim to an area of the aquarium and will be very aggressive towards other fish encroaching on their newly established territory inside the aquarium or lake. The size of the territory varies depending on the size and aggressiveness of the fish based on its surroundings. Once the oscar establishes a territory, it will vigorously defend it by chasing away other fish.Although the species is widely regarded as sexually monomorphic, males have been suggested to grow more quickly, and in some naturally occurring strains, males are noted to possess dark blotches on the base of their dorsal fins. The species reaches sexual maturity around one year of age, and continues to reproduce for 9â€“10 years. Frequency and timing of spawning may be related to the occurrence of rain.ocellatus fish are biparental substrate spawners, though detailed information regarding their reproduction in the wild is scarce.
The guppy (Poecilia reticulata), also known as millionfish and rainbow fish, is one of the world's most widely distributed tropical fish, and one of the most popular freshwater aquarium fish species. It is a member of the family Poeciliidae and, like almost all American members of the family, is live-bearing.Guppies, whose natural range is in northeast South America, were introduced to many habitats and are now found all over the world. They are highly adaptable and thrive in many different environmental and ecological conditions. Male guppies, which are smaller than females, have ornamental caudal and dorsal fins, while females are duller in colour.
The neon tetra (Paracheirodon innesi) is a freshwater fish of the characin family (family Characidae) of order Characiformes. The type species of its genus, it is native to blackwater and clearwater streams in the Orinoco and Amazon basin of South America.Its bright colouring makes the fish visible to conspecifics in the dark blackwater streams,and is also the main reason for its popularity among tropical fish hobbyists.The neon tetra has a light-blue back over a silver-white abdomen. During the night, the blue and red become gray or black as the fish restsâ€”it reactivates once it becomes active in the morning. It grows to approximately 3 cm (1.2 in) in overall length. Sexual dimorphism is slight, with the female having a slightly larger belly, and a bent iridescent stripe rather than the male's straight stripe. They have recently become available in a long-fin variety.
SIAMESE FIGHTING FISH
The Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens), commonly known as the betta, is a popular fish in the aquarium trade. Bettas are a member of the gourami family and are known to be highly territorial. Males in particular are prone to high levels of aggression and will attack each other if housed in the same tank. If there is no means of escape, this will usually result in the death of one or both of the fish. Female bettas can also become territorial towards each other if they are housed in too small an aquarium. It is typically not recommended to keep male and female bettas together, except temporarily for breeding purposes which should always be undertaken with caution. Colours available to the aquarist include red, orange, yellow, blue, steel blue, turquoise/green, black, pastel, white ("opaque" white, not to be confused with albino) and multi-coloured fish.
Platy is a common name of freshwater fish in the genus Xiphophorus that lacks a "sword" at the bottom of their tails. Both species are livebearers, similar to other fish of the family Poeciliidae, such as the guppy and molly. Platies are native to the east coast of Central America and southern Mexico.The platy (Xiphophorus maculatus) grows to a maximum overall length of 7.0 cm (2.4 in). Sexual dimorphism is slight, the maleâ€™s caudal fin being more pointed. The anal fin of the male fish has evolved into a gonopodium, a stick-shaped organ used for reproduction. The female southern platyfishâ€™s anal fin is fan-shaped.The variatus platy (Xiphophorus variatus) grows to a maximum overall length of 7.0 cm (2.8 in). In the wild they are olive in color with black marbling or spots on the side of the caudal peduncle.


Most of the people love animals, not every animal but most of them. So we love to have a pet or pets with us at home right? We enjoy the time with them, we enjoy how these lovely creatures move on with us, their loyalty and the intelligence amazes us. Between all these animals, dog has a special place. I think the main reason why the dog has a special place is, the level of understanding between humans and dogs more than any animal. That is why even the police uses dogs as they understand, what is the purpose of doing something really quickly. So from where we can find dogs?
There are professional places where we can buy some puppies and through those places we can get the details about everything and even they monitor. Buying food is not that easy as some dogs are being so picky, they do not eat easily. For this those centers can give answers as they have special grain free dog food that has being made by using natural things and also being recommended by the scientists. It’s not the case that everyplace which does this is professional. You should check their qualifications and whether they have the permission to carry out things like that. If yes, then you are good to go.
There are some other places where, you can take homeless dogs and for adoption. I think this is more beautiful as it gives hope to a living being again. We should be aware of the vaccination course specially if we are adopting a dog from those shelter homes. Why should we pay attention on this vaccination course? Just because these animals even they look fine from the outside they carry diseases which are okay for the animals but can be deadly to humans. So to prevent those we should thorough with the course. And also the food we should give them depends on the vaccination. As an example sometimes after vaccinations it’s better to not to give meat directly to the animal therefore we can use alternatives like turkey dog food which should be bought from a professional place as i mentioned in the previous paragraph.
That’s all the main stuff that you should know if you are new to having a pet. So be aware of those. Love, take care of these little lovely creatures as they will be good pals throughout your life and their loyalty can’t be beaten by anybody. So, please be kind to animal because they do not understand to take care of themselves. Love them and enjoy their accompany with you.


|Posted by lilboyblueeyes on January 12, 2012 at 10:15 PM||comments (9897)|
Cats with a shy or reserved personality tend to be leery of new objects brought into the home- sometimes to the point of giving a wide berth. Below are a few suggestions to help break the ice between your feline(s) and their new tree. Try any combination of the following tips to help ease your cat through this transition....
1) Put the tree in a favorite hangout. On familiar turf, your cat will be inclined to investigate the new addition. It may take a day or two, but gradually he or she will progress from investigating the tree to taking ownership by climbing it.
2) Place a favorite toy on the tree- within eyesight if possible. Seeing a familiar mouse or other toy on the tree offers reassurance to the cat, and can help increase the "curiosity" phase.
3) A liitle pinch.. adding catnip around the base, and on 1 or 2 shelves should help kitties anxiety. If you prefer not to use catnip, try substituting a cat treat or a small dish of food for him / her.
These tips should do the trick. Usually, bold cats don't need outside encouragement, but the tips above are a good start. In no time your happy cat will be the "happiest cat."


Do you have a horse with behavioral issues? Have you had all the vet checks to ensure your horse is not in any pain? What else could be causing your horse behavioral problems?
Do you need your horse breaking in/starting? Note we gentle the horses no use of harsh techniques!
Want to know more about the Kiddy Pony Clinic, Teen Clinic or Adult Clinics?
Would you like to know more about Horse Therapy Sessions, relax with the horse and let them help you.
Please use the form below to find out more.


Pixeldust and Door Number 3 have launched the newly redesigned Austin Humane Society website. Built on the Drupal platform, the website features a sporty new look and a stronger focus on making the connection between users and the animals awaiting adoption. Pixeldust implemented an interactive pet grid where future adopters can view and sort pets by color, size, age, breed and several other features. The database is populated by a national Humane Society pet database.
The Austin Humane Society is Austin’s largest no kill, non-profit animal adoption shelter dedicated to saving Austin’s homeless cats and dogs by educating our community about responsible pet ownership and reducing pet overpopulation. As an Austin institution, Pixeldust is honored to work with an organization that’s so dedicated to helping the local animal population. We are also excited to be working with an agency as talented and creative as Door Number 3.
Door Number 3 is a full-service indie advertising, branding and media agency in Austin, TX. They provide creative solutions with integrated capabilities to influence consumer behavior.


If you can bare to eat it, this pup will be completely edible and measures approximately 5cm – 8cm tall.
If you send me a photo of your dog, what I create will be a close interpretation, not an exact replica. You’ll be surprised by the result and it is sure to bring a smile to your face.
Please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org with your pup preferences, or send me a web mail through the contact me page https://tinytoppers.com.au/contact/
Price is per dog


Testimonials & Reviews
Here you will find just a few pictures and testimonials from some of the many families who adopted a puppy from us over the 2-plus decades we have been breeding. If you have a Cimarron Boxer and would like to leave a review and picture, please do so below.
This is our Aurora. She was born in June 2015 and was part of the Y group. She was Yahana. Aurora is a wonderful boxer and we love her so much. She’s our fur baby and protects her human babies everyday. Fantastic guard dog and very loyal and loving. She gives tons of kisses too. Thank you Cimarron for this healthy beautiful boxer. We hope to get another one soon.
This is our Ralphie boy “Cimarrons Jag.” He is a healthy 8-year-old, 85 lb big boy who loves people and playing with kids. Great family dog. Loving personality. No health issues. Cimarron Boxers was very professional to work with. Would definitely use them again.
Rene Madeiras Bona
This handsome boy is five years old today! We love you Zeek Von Cimarron!!! Couldn’t have asked for a sweeter puppy!!!
Laura Nugent Hanneman
We are on our 3rd Cimarron boxer. They are great camping buddies, Great with kids and grandkids. Cimarron is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
Clyde (E litter) is 1 year old today! He’s always full of energy and just looooves people and dogs. He’s also very well behaved, except when there’s food on the counter. I am so happy he’s been a part of our family.
Freya, our 7 month old boxer is a joy to have in our lives! She is spunky, sweet and a very smart girl! Thank you Cimarron Boxers for sharing her with us!
Our Penelope Yasmin (just “Yasmin” from the “Y” litter of June 2015) blessed us from Cimarron. They were great and we’ve kept in touch through fb over the years. Penelope is beautiful and an amazing personality. Great with every human and animal soul. Sweet as sugar, smart as a whip, and a beautiful boxer. The fourth boxer of my life and so I’m familiar with breed traits, both physical and personality. And a real strong facial profile and perfect physique. But most of all, a kissy, lovey, loyal, extremely affectionate girl.
These 2 knuckleheads are (l)Fiona & (r) Finn. I fell in love with Finn in 2014 from the picture that Christy had on her website. A few weeks later he was ours!! A year later Finn’s half-sister, Fiona (same dad) was available. They are the best parts of my day!! I just wish I could share more pics with you!! Thanks, Cimarron Boxers for giving us all great family dogs!!
Maureen Minnick Anton
We have gotten 2 puppies from Cimarron Boxers. Our Hanna is almost 11 and Falcon is 8 months. Both are great family dogs and have good temperaments. Minimal health issues and vet visits for both, Hanna being older has had some recent concerns which are being managed and she is doing well. We had good communication with the breeder from when we picked out our pup to when we got it home. We love our Cimarron Boxers!
Kerri Redmond Akers
We have gotten 2 pets from Cimarron Boxers, wonderful healthy, happy pets when we picked them up. Christie and her husband are wonderful to work with, providing great updates on the pups until they are ready to go to their forever homes. Highly recommend!!
Our beautiful Sage. She is the queen of the house, no doubt. Little sleepy in this pic. Just back from the beach! Love her, thank you Christy and Jonathan. Can’t wait for the next litter!
Vader/Caliber (C-litter) is checking in at 16 weeks and 34lbs. He is doing great and being spoiled. I am working on getting a better set of photos but he seems to know when I am trying and either lays down looking away or runs up and sits in my lap looking at the camera from about an inch away. I’ll keep you better posted as we go. Thank you and your family again for the opportunity to have such an amazing puppy to my family.
Sofie Mae Frost from Cimarron Boxers, 9 days shy of 9 months old. Sweet, feisty, and super smart. We just adore her and loved working with Cimarron. Thank you, Christy, for letting us raise one of your beautiful babies.
We got Beau and loved his temperament so much, we were lucky to be able to get his sister (from another litter) Lily, a year later. You can tell they came from the same parents. They are attached to each other. Such an amazing part of our family. Can’t recommend you all enough.
This is Sita! She is perfect in every way and is the best pet sister to her human siblings. We can take her anywhere and she is the life of the party. I flew out to pick her up and brought her back to Washington state just in time. I met Cimarron Boxers at the airport and I fell in love with her the moment I saw her.
This is my Boxer I got on April and I could not ask for a better boxer. He is my baby and Cimarron boxer she was great to work with. If I ever get another boxer I would definitely get another one of their pups ❤He is very smart pup.
We have two boxers from Cimarron and they are the light of our lives! They are super smart, sweet and the epitome of “Boxerness”. Everyone that sees them, comments on how beautiful they are and we have to agree!!
We have two babies from them, a 9.5 year old white boxer and a 3 year old brindle. I love working with them!
This is our boxer, Boaz, from Cimarron Boxers. He is a healthy, happy, and engaging 80 lb 21 month old male. We live in AZ and flew out to pick him up just as Covid struck in March 2020!
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Do animals have rights? Are they entitled to the same care and treatment as humans? Should government have the right to tell us how many pets we can have and how we should care for them? And, should county municipalities consider passing ordinances banning the chaining of dogs outdoors?
Issues surrounding animal ownership rights surfaced in the last week in both Salem and Wellsville. In both instances, action taken and action requested seem to be blurring the lines between human rights and animal rights.
Salem City Council on Wednesday passed on final reading an ordinance limiting the combined number of dogs and cats permitted in a residence to five.
Is that really what people expect their town council to be doing? Sure, we've all seen and heard of the cases of animal abuse and neglect where the pet owner was harboring a large number of pets. The stench and the noise emanating from these homes is a nuisance for neighboring residents and law enforcement has the right to put an end to this and charge the owners with violations.
We realize, too, that when individuals lack enough common sense to limit the number of animals to that for which they can provide adequate care, society must step in and set limits.
But should council have the right to arbitrarily assign the number five to designate how many pets are allowable and tolerable in a household? What if none of these pets is kept outside of the residence? Many cat owners do not allow their pets outside. They may have five or more cats using litter boxes and unless you visit inside the home you may not know of the cats' existence. With proper maintenance of litter boxes even multiple cats may not be detected.
In other words, if no one is complaining, does council have the right to tell you how many pets you can own? If someone is complaining, then set up an ordinance for nuisance declarations and enforce it, don't just throw out a random number and set this as the pet ownership limit.
And what about people who already own more than five animals? Are they "grandfathered in" or exempt from following the new law? Or will the animal patrol stop by and confiscate "Fluffy" if the owner has one cat over the limit?
Salem council's focus should have been on writing and enforcing laws for cases that have become nuisances, not imposing arbitrary limits.
Meanwhile, in Wellsville a "Break the Chain Gang," has been formed to gather signatures on a petition encouraging village council to pass an ordinance that would prohibit dog owners from chaining up their pets outside for 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
Here, again, there are multiple problems with this proposal. First, how will officials monitor situations to be sure the dog is chained for 24 hours a day? If a dog is turned loose for a few minutes per day is that enough to comply with the law?
The ultimate goal of the "Break the Chain Gang" appears to be not allowing dogs to be kept outside at all. Columbiana County Humane Society agent Jan Palmer, who is spearheading the movement, said, "the health of a dog that is left outside instead of inside isn't going to be as good mentally or physically. They're not well taken care of because they're isolated from the house."
We disagree with that statement. Not all dogs that are chained outside are neglected, in fact many are very well cared for, and some types of dogs prefer to be outside.
What about well-cared for dogs kept inside a fenced-in area? By her statement, Palmer seems to be suggesting they want to prohibit dogs from being kept outside, period, regardless of whether they are chained or in a pen.
Some canines need to be chained or kept in a pen for their own safety. Loose dogs can wander onto roadways and be struck by motor vehicles. They may also pose dangers to humans as well as livestock and other pets.
And, again, what about the rights of the pet owners? Does government have the right to tell you that you must keep your dog inside just because some organization doesn't like it? The goal of the "Break the Chain Gang" movement is nothing more than another attempt by animal rights groups to go too far and place animal rights ahead of human rights.
Palmer's job as humane officer is to prevent animal neglect and abuse. Whether a dog is kept inside or out should not matter to her or anyone else unless the animal is being abused, and being kept outside does not automatically constitute abuse.
Wellsville council should think long and hard before creating an ordinance that is a blatant violation of pet owners' rights and Salem council should reconsider its pet number restriction.


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No part of this Web Site or material contained within it or provided by it should be taken as instruction to be followed with no prior training. Vet Nurse Online provides CPD only and is not involved with the VN qualification, and it is expected that all members viewing the presentations provided have been previously trained in Veterinary Nursing and animal health. Thereby Under No Circumstances should anything viewed in the material provided by Vet Nurse Online supercede clinical judgement, and due caution should always be taken when treating animals or carrying out any tasks. All legal requirements, such as the Veterinary Surgeons Act and the Animal Welfare Act must be adhered to, as must The Guide to Professional Conduct. Further, due to the changing nature of Veterinary science and Veterinary Nursing due to research and development, continuing education is likely to change and presentational information viewed on Vet Nurse Online may be superceded in the future as new research develops. Clinical judgement and due caution will always be required and responsibility remains entirely with the user.


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Small Kids and Kittens
The smaller your child, the more interested he will be in the new kitty. It will be his baby, his companion, his toy ….only the kitten isn’t a toy and that’s something that you need to make very clear about right from the get-go. Even a toddler can understand that they are not to pick kitty up if they are told firmly enough. Your child is fragile against the outside world, but the kitten is fragile even against a small child and can easily be hurt by simply being loved too much! Young kids have a habit of wanting to hug the kitten tightly, and this can be fatal as it’s easy to restrict cat’s air supply. Picking up the kitten in a rough way, or by its legs can create the need for a visit to the veterinary where you and your child (if there) will be admonished for ill treating the kitty.
It can also create internal injuries on a young kitten that doesn’t have much body fat to protect its internal organs. The best way to bring young child and kitty together safely is by first not allowing your child to pick up the kitten until you are sure he can do it in the correct manner, and by teaching him to fuss the kitty while the kitty is on your knee. The kitten will soon follow your child around if he feels safe, and within no time at all you’ll probably find you have two “kittens” crawling around the floor as your child becomes the kitty’s shadow! By first teaching the safe way of fussing, and then playing, you decrease not only the chances of the kitten being unintentionally, but seriously, harmed – but also the chances of your child being scratched by a fearful cat who is being held too tight. .
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Can cats eat pepperoni: Cats are acknowledged for their extremely finicky ingesting behavior. As responsible puppy owners, it’s important to be privy to what foods are safe and appropriate in your feline pal. Pepperoni, a famous sausage-like meat product, regularly reveals its way into numerous dishes. But can cats eat pepperoni? In this text, we are able to explore the ability risks and blessings of can cats eat pepperoni
Is Pepperoni Safe for Cats?
The short solution is that pepperoni isn’t always a advocated deal with for cats and need to be prevented for several reasons:
- High Fat and Sodium Content: Pepperoni is a extraordinarily processed and fatty meat product. It’s commonly excessive in fats and sodium, which aren’t suitable for a cat’s digestive gadget. Excessive fat can lead to gastrointestinal disenchanted, together with diarrhea and vomiting, and it can even contribute to obesity through the years.
- Spices and Additives: Most industrial pepperoni includes spices, garlic, and other components that may be dangerous to cats. Garlic, in particular, is poisonous to cats and can cause extreme health troubles, such as damage to their pink blood cells.
- Risk of Pancreatitis: Feeding your cat excessive-fats meals like pepperoni can growth the threat of pancreatitis, a painful and doubtlessly life-threatening infection of the pancreas.
- Allergies and Sensitivities: Cats, like human beings, will have food allergies or sensitivities. Feeding them surprising or highly spiced meals like pepperoni can cause adverse reactions, such as pores and skin irritations, digestive issues, or different allergic signs.
- Salt Concerns: The high sodium content in pepperoni can cause salt toxicity, causing immoderate thirst and urination. In severe cases, it could cause sodium ion poisoning, that is harmful in your cat’s fitness.
- Processed Meats: Processed meats like pepperoni might also include components, preservatives, and chemical substances that are not suitable for pets and may lead to adverse reactions.
- Choking Hazard: Large pieces of pepperoni can pose a choking chance, especially for smaller pets.
Healthy Treat Alternatives
While pepperoni is not recommended for cats due to its high salt and fat content material, there are safer and more healthy deal with options to consider. These alternatives aren’t best greater suitable for your cat but also provide dietary advantages:
- Commercial Cat Treats: There are severa cat treats to be had which are in particular formulated to satisfy feline nutritional needs. These treats are designed to be both secure and appealing for your cat. Look for treats which can be crafted from splendid ingredients and are loose from artificial additives.
- Small Pieces of Cooked Meat: If you need to offer your cat with a meaty treat, small, unseasoned pieces of cooked meat, together with hen or turkey, can be a healthier choice when given moderately. Meat is a herbal protein supply that aligns with a cat’s carnivorous nature.
- Catnip or Cat Grass: Some cats enjoy catnip or cat grass as a deal with. These are safe alternatives that could offer your cat with enjoyment and stimulation. Catnip, particularly, can elicit playful conduct in cats. Cat grass is a sort of grass grown for tom cat consumption and can be a source of nutritional fiber.
Can cats consume Chicken pepperoni?
Can cats eat pepperoni, Feeding your cat chicken pepperoni is not recommended. While chicken pepperoni may additionally sound like a incredibly more healthy option compared to normal pepperoni, it nonetheless includes several dangers in your feline buddy:
- High Fat and Salt Content: Chicken pepperoni, like different kinds of pepperoni, contains a sizable quantity of fat and salt. Excessive fat intake can lead to obesity and pancreatitis in cats, and high salt content material can result in salt poisoning, causing various health troubles.
- Seasonings and Spices: Chicken pepperoni is usually seasoned with diverse spices and flavorings. These seasonings won’t be suitable for your cat’s touchy digestive system and may cause gastrointestinal disenchanted, along with vomiting and diarrhea.
- Processed Meats: Processed meats, together with fowl pepperoni, aren’t an excellent preference for cats. They often comprise components and preservatives that aren’t a part of a natural tom cat food regimen.
Why Cooked Meat is a Safer Option for Cats?
- Cooked meat, along with lean chicken or turkey, offers a supply of incredible, animal-based totally protein. This form of protein aligns perfectly with a cat’s obligate carnivore nature, as their our bodies are biologically tailored to thrive on animal-derived nutrients.
- Animal-based protein carries important amino acids and vitamins, such as taurine, which might be critical on your cat’s universal health and nicely-being.
Low Fat Content:
- Cooked lean meat has a drastically decrease fat content material whilst in comparison to processed meats like pepperoni. This reduction in fat content is essential for a cat’s food regimen, as excessive fat intake can cause obesity and pancreatitis in cats.
- Obesity can bring about various health problems, which includes diabetes and joint issues, that may lessen your cat’s overall fine of lifestyles.
- Unseasoned cooked meat ensures that your cat isn’t uncovered to spices and seasonings that could aggravate their sensitive digestive system. Cats can be touchy to certain spices and flavorings which can be regularly utilized in human meals.
- Offering unseasoned meat minimizes the chance of digestive disillusioned, along with vomiting and diarrhea, which may be commonplace whilst cats devour meals with sturdy seasonings.
- Cooked meat includes minimal salt as compared to processed meats like pepperoni. High salt intake can result in salt poisoning in cats, resulting in symptoms like excessive thirst, urination, and probably severe health complications.
- The reduced sodium content material in cooked meat reduces the chance of salt-related health troubles for your cat.
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Is pepperoni vegan or not?
Pepperoni gets its bold, highly spiced taste, smokiness, and colourful red colour from herbal herbs and spices, making these factors vegan-pleasant, even though conventional pepperoni is made from cured pork and red meat.
Can cats have sausage or pepperoni?
Avoid giving your cat sure meats, inclusive of deli meats (high in salt), processed meats like sausage, warm puppies, pepperoni, salami, and canned or smoked meats.
What meat should cats not eat?
Raw meat and uncooked fish, at the side of uncooked eggs, can harbor bacteria which can cause food poisoning in cats. Additionally, raw fish carries an enzyme which could damage down thiamine, a crucial B diet critical for tom cat fitness.
What if my cat licked a grape?
If your cat has fed on grapes, the most secure path of motion is to touch your veterinarian or an emergency health center immediately. They can provide steerage on whether any home care is necessary and may propose moving into touch with poison manage for in addition assistance.


Almo Nature Orange Label Dry is a highly palatable and digestible dry food for cats. This is due to the high percentage of fresh meat as well as meal meat. As cats are Carnivores, only animal proteins are used, no vegetable protein. It is ideal for indoor sterilized/neutered cats, fussy cats or overweight cats.
The Orange Label recipes are prepared with meat or fish and their derivatives which are strictly controlled and enriched with vitamins and minerals.
The entire Orange Label range is completely natural, with no artificial coloring or chemical preservatives.
Orange Label kibble, thanks to a careful selection of main ingredients are easily digestible, light and rich in flavor!
- Made with sardines
- Fish is tasty and easy-to-digest. Degradation from protein metabolism is kept to a minimum so your cat’s kidneys are not stressed.
- Made with selected premium ingredients
- Enriched with vitamins and minerals
- Naturally preserved
|Crude Oils & Fat||12.1%|


Official blog for the kickstarter project Dog Scratchin'. An illustrated collection of dogs, their stories and the people who love them.
Sunday, June 3, 2012
Lovely Loca Dog
This is Loca. She was abandoned as a pup and was living scared, in a vacant apartment. I actually know her, and her folks who rescued her. She is a sweet little girl who had a rough start to her life. I can say with confidence that her life now is easy and full of joy. I've read so many stories like this that will be in the book, they touch my heart. I am so glad there are so many out there who take these great animals in and give them a loving home. I am grateful to each and every one of you. I hope this book project will help to share some of that love. It is my privilege to draw these dogs and tell their stories.


Unlike many other pet sitting companies, I provide all of the pet care myself and have experience with dogs, cats and horses as well as various other animals. I understand the need for reliable, loving in-home or barn pet care for all of your pets in the comfort of their own familiar surroundings. I provide the best care possible for all of your animal companions when you are away from home so you and your pets don't have the additional stress related to transportation and boarding. Killearn Pet Sitting/Horses, Hounds & Homes LLC is a member of Pet Sitters International and is insured and bonded for your protection.
The first thing I do is to schedule an introductory meeting with you and your pets prior to beginning any service. This permits your pets to become acquainted with me and to allow me to learn about your pets' behavior, feeding and exercise needs. At this first meeting, we will decide together the number of daily visits required to take quality care of your pet family. Knowing your animal friends are in good hands and seeing them interact with me will give you peace of mind while you are away.
If you keep your horses away from your home, I am also available for the occasional morning or evening visits. My custom house/barn calls are detailed to suit your needs and the needs of your pets. I also offer overnight stays for those pets and barn fellows that need the extra company while you are away.


adorable animal, cute dog, fun animals, funny pet, cute pets)
Simply adorable! These 26 animals are so cute they’ll make your day better just by looking at them. Watch the video and see these small, furry friends bounce and wobble around the screen. Bizarre bear crafts or camera-ready cats won’t do it for you? No problem! You can find all of these in their natural habitat, right here. Get ready to drool.
“Bubble Puppy” by “Viterreus”
The text reads “If you have found a bubble puppy, it is best to return him to your home as soon as possible. This is a very important rule and could save his life. Do not attempt to rescue the bubble puppy since you will spend most of your time struggling with his considerable girth. The bubble puppy can only be rescued by a trained dog catcher. The key is to keep from getting popped, as this will cause you to become smaller and smaller until you disappear completely. This is a very old and respected rule, but remember that it is not on the books anywhere. You know as little about the bubble puppy as everyone else in the world does. For example, it is not known if he lives in groups or if he lives alone. It is not known how he captures his prey, how old the bubble puppy is, or even why we are guiding a guide to finding him.”
Dazed and Confused and Adorable: The Secrets to Making a Dogs Ugly Look Pretty Again
Some of these dogs and cats look so cute it’s almost hard to believe they’re in nature.
In fact, they’re just seen as ugly until they’re given a little bit of help.
A lot of times the hair is all matted and the eye color looks blotched but if you trim those whiskers, wash them up and gussy them up with a little lipstick, your dog or cat will instantly look pretty again! Let’s see what these doggies learned from this article.
1) Always shower before taking any other action.
2) Moisturize your doggies skin to eliminate any dry patches or fleas.
3) Make sure your dog wears the right shade of lipstick. (Pictured above is a Cosmopolitan Cockapoo).
4) Accentuate the eyebrows for a strikingly handsome look.
5) Don’t forget to pack a little lipstick for touch up throughout the day! (Pictured above are Buttercup and her pink Converse lipstick bag).
6) You must also purchase good grooming products and shampoo for your pet. They do a better job than anything else to get the hair out of their eyes and teeth. (Pictured above is a very cute doggie with his new brush).
A few years ago, a man named Paul English and his wife Betty set out to prove that you could hypnotize animals. They tried this experiment by pouring milk into a baby bottle and putting it on the ground with a cap. They put a small aluminum dish next to the bottle, in which they placed a photo of their cat, then hid behind a curtain. The photographer took photos of the cat and the empty bottle (without its contents) with different exposures (exposures). The kittens in the image below are very unusual looking, with one eye much larger than the other eye. All other kittens in the photo are identical.
Their cat’s eyes are blue in the original photograph but gray in the photo with an exposure of f/32, due to diffraction. The same is true for all cats whose eyes were photographed with an exposure of f/32.
Another experiment showed that a kitten’s pupils can be enlarged without anesthesia. The kittens in the photo below were photographed with an exposure of f/32, and you can see that their pupils are actually much larger than in the original photo. The photographer merely looked through a telephoto lens at his cat.
In this experiment, you can clearly see that the kittens’ eyes are actually blue in the photo with an exposure of f/32, but gray when photographed with an exposure of f/22. This is also true for all of the cats whose eyes were photographed with an exposure of f/22.


It's Valentine's Day and we are celebrating our love for the pooches. We were so impressed and grateful for everyone who shared pictures of their pups with us, that we decided to share a few of our favorites. Included in that list is our winner of the first ever Gameminster Dog Show, Rudy!
We also talked to Matt Meitner from Sit Means Sit Dog Training Waukesha on today's show. Matt talked about how he and his team train all sorts of dogs and how they can help your dog too! Call Matt Meitner and Sit Means Sit Dog Training Waukesha to make an appointment at 262-361-3641 or visit them online at www.waukeshadogtraining.com.


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