- Put the plants in clumps of three to five (single plants in a row look unnatural).
- Put the taller plants near the center of a grouping, or to the rear.
- Don’t put the plants too close together--they will grow.
- Make little access pathways through the garden, so you avoid compacting the soil.
- Don’t worry--you can always move plants later if you don’t like where they are.
I was amazed--most of the plants took hold and thrived. Gradually, I stopped mowing more shady spots in my back yard. First, they’d go to violets. Then, as hand-me-down plants became available, I’d pull up the violets, and plant natives. But I liked violets too, so I left some clumps.
Volunteer plants add variety
One spring day, before the grass started growing, I noticed a strange, brownish spike growing in my front lawn. A “volunteer.” Not knowing what it was, I transplanted it into my garden. It turned out to be a lovely, mottled trillium. The next year, a jack-in-the-pulpit volunteered. Again, I moved it.
Now that I’m five years into my love affair with native plants, things are really taking off. All those plants are spreading, so I have my own “extras” to colonize new areas, such as my terrace.
Terraces are good for gardens, because if you remove soil to below the sidewalk, the garden will take runoff from the pavement--ensuring luxurient growth. Select spots where the pavement tilts towards your garden.
Getting rid of grass
If you want to create a woodland garden in one year, existing grass is a problem. One way is to lay down newspaper in early spring, and put dirt or leaves on top--to kill the grass.
But with gradual conversion, the grass simply melts away. The natives and accumulating leaves crowd out the grass. I remove any that remains when I weed twice a year.
The garden designs itself
During my first weeding in May, I look to see which plants are vigorous. I have several species which are rather aggressive--so I trim them back, giving their shyer neighbors more room. Then I move a few plants around, maybe adding a few plants to a thin clump, till things look right. I weed out the dandelions and creeping Charlie.
I look for seedlings that became established last fall--such as trillium or jack-in-the-pulpit. For me, these are in short supply, since I never received “extras” of these. Then I transplant them to clumps that need “beefing up,” or into new areas of lawn that I am transforming. As I find these little “volunteers,” I mark them with a little flag, till I have time to transplant them.
During April, you wonder if anything is going to come up. Gradually, little green shoots show their heads. Just as you are despairing whether anything made it through the winter, suddenly... little green heads and spikes are popping up all over. Over the next few weeks, your garden is transformed from barren to blooming. It's magical!
May is the best tine of year in my woodland garden. Many species are coming into flower, one after another. It’s fascinating to wander down the paths and take stock--see who’s doing what. How the children grow! Each year, the jack-in-the-pulpit sends up new shoots near the parent plant.
Yards have odd corners that are perfect for woodland gardens.
Most essential--enriching your soil
My house was built in the 1950s on clay. Topsoil under the grass is thin. When you rake the lawn every fall, you are removing most of the organic material that normally would enrich the soil. So it’s essential that you don’t rake your woodland garden!!
Even though I started with poor soil, my woodland garden is a success.
For best results, you need to do more than not raking to enrich the soil. My neighbor Bob Kowal, a retired botany professor, actually brought in bales of oak leaves he got from the cemetery. Since I have about 50% lawn now, I use my grass clippings as mulch, and I compost weeds and the leaves I rake.
Some woodland gardeners use free wood chips provided by the City. These make nice pathways. Or, you can use them as mulch around groups of plants. After about 5 years, the chips break down to enrich the soil.
Rich soil and mulch help to retain moisture.
A natural forest is like a giant sponge--soaking up and holding onto all the rain that falls. The urban forest doesn’t retain as much water, so you’ll have to supply extra during dry periods. Some years I have to water frequently--other years, hardly at all.
The two best ways to water are to use soaker hoses, and direct your downspouts to your woodland gardens. You can hook up rain barrels to your soaker hoses.
Pour a gallon of water to observe which way your driveway and sidewalk tilts--then build gardens where they will receive extra runoff from the pavement. Don’t let any water escape from your property without using it!
You will need to weed 2-3 times a year. Mulching helps keep the weeds in check. You have to keep on top of the creeping Charlie--weed Charlie in May, when you can see the purple flowers.
For the most part, native plants can compete with weeds. But your conditions may not be perfect, and some of the weeds, like garlic mustard, are very invasive. And your neighbors are busy exporting weed seeds, like dandelions.
Woodland garden VS lawn The woodland garden is...
- Far more interesting than a lawn, and more beautiful.
- It attracts wildlife, replenishes groundwater, and promotes health of the lakes.
- You don’t have to rake or spend money on gas, fertilizer, weedkiller, or lawnmower repairs.
If you count the planting--yes, it is more work.
But once the garden is established, it’s somewhat less work than a lawn. All you have to do is weed, mulch, and perhaps water.
What about mosquitoes? I don’t notice any difference. Mosquitoes aren’t produced in the woods. For breeding they require standing water--such as roof gutters or an old tire someone tossed into the bushes.
A source for plants--your biggest challenge
If you have shade, your next step is to find a supply of woodland plants. There are sales about town.
But more and more people are starting woodland gardens. So chances are, there’s someone in your neighborhood who has extra plants to share. A vigorous garden produces lots of seedlings. Ask your neighbor if you can have some of these tiny plants.
Since I started my garden, I haven’t paid a dime for plants. All it cost was about $50 for soaker hoses.
Now that I’ve got all those native plants with quirky personalities--I’m starting to find out about them. Wild ginger is really amazing--but that’s another story.
# # #
2 small bins for holding/transporting soil, weeds, or mulch.
Two plastic garbage cans with lids for holding soil, weeds. (Use lids to shovel soil onto when transplanting plants.)
Four (or more) 50’soaker hoses
Hose to get water from spigot to soaker hose.
Four way junction to split water to four soaker hoses.
Wire staples, to hold down soaker hoses
Plastic water can
Downspout extenders (or PVC flexible drain pipe)
At least two composters. Several inexpensive plastic ones are made.
If your yard is fenced, you can use a short segment of chicken wire fencing to close off a corner of your fence, turning it into a triangular container about 6-8 feet on a side.
Shade-tolerant plants in my garden
Trillium (two species)
Bleeding heart (not native)
Windflower (not native)
Lamium (not native)


About the Congress
The history of agriculture, which started with the history of humanity, was one of the main factors in the development of our civilization. With the development of civilization, advances in agricultural science and technology were put into practice. In this way, with the increase in productivity and quality, the nutritional need of the growing world population has become partially met. Although scientific and technological developments in agriculture have made positive contributions to productivity, it has also caused some environmental pollution.
Sharing the scientific knowledge with scientists working in agriculture and related disciplines will accelerate the advancements in agriculture. For this purpose, the “3nd International Congress of the Turkish Journal of Agriculture - Food Science and Technology (TURJAF 2023)” will be held online between the dates of 13-16 September 2023. Hosted by Malatya Metropolitan Municipality and Malatya Turgut Özal University, the congress is organized by Turkish Science and Technology Publications (TURSTEP) in cooperation with Niğde Ömer Halisdemir University, Sivas Cumhiriyet University and Niğde Ömer Halisdemir University Ayhan Şahenk Agricultural Research and Application Center. Participation of sector representatives, breeders and researchers are expected in the congress, The congress is planned as online and will be broadcasted live on TURAS TV.
Congress topics include the original and advanced technologies related to agriculture and natural life, animal production, crop production, aquaculture, food science and technologies, agricultural technologies, soil science, sustainable agriculture systems, agricultural economics, genetics, biology, agricultural ecology, landscape architecture and agricultural environment. Many prestigious national and international researchers from agriculture and agriculture-related sectors as well as from the environmental sciences are expected to attend this important meeting.
We are pleased to organize this congress in memory of Prof. Dr. Kemal Esengün, who many students and scientists he trained in agricultural education and science.
We have an endless belief that you will be with us and support us in the realization of this congress as well as your support for the advancement of the Turkish Journal of Agriculture - Food Science and Technology (TURJAF).


Clearview Sharron- Dahlia Tuber
Clearview Sharron- Dahlia Tuber
This variety is: CLEARVIEW SHARRON.
A gift from a friend, this spikey informal cactus like dahlia is a soft, yellow color that stands out in bouquets and arrangements! Bloom size varies significantly, around 6-10 inches (if you measure to the tips of the petals). The plant grows to be about 3.5-4 feet tall in my garden. Blooms mid-summer through fall.
My name's Eve, and I am a dahlia farmer in Washington State. My passion for dahlias started with a few tubers from a friend, and grew into an obsession. I am very excited to offer these tubers (bulbs) from my dahlia garden. Learn more about me on my website: www.gardensbyevelyn.com. Follow my newsletter for dahlia growing tips and tricks: www.gardensbyevelyn.com/newsletter.
Thank you for supporting my small business!
-What are dahlias?
Dahlias are stunning, semi-tender, and tuberous perennial plants. They make eye-catching additions to flower beds, and are popular cut flowers for bouquets and arrangements.
The blooms can be as small as ping pong balls, or as large as frisbees. They come in almost every color. Blooms can be fluffy, flat, spiked, variegated, two-toned, striped, ball-shaped, twisted, ruffled, and more. Plant dahlia tubers in the spring for blooms that begin in the summer and continue until frost.
-How to grow dahlias
Dahlias are super easy to grow! They like full sun, with healthy soil (not too much nitrogen), and consistent water.
They happily grow as a perennial in well-drained soils where winter temperatures remain above 20 F (–6.7 C). Mulch can help to keep them warm. In colder climates, dahlias need to be dug up, stored in a garage or basement (at around 40-50 F, 4.5-10 C), and planted again the next spring.
Note that if you don’t want to bother digging them up, that’s okay. One plant makes so many blooms in a season that many consider dahlias worth the annual investment.
LEARN MORE about planting, pruning, storing, and dividing dahlias on my website: www.gardensbyevelyn.com/growdahlias
There are pictures of example tubers in the listing, above. One tuber = one dahlia plant = many blooms per plant. The number of blooms per plant varies, depending on the variety (the smaller the bloom, the more you tend to get per plant).
I use a soil-based storage technique so the tubers will be dirty, dry, tough, firm, and healthy. Learn more about this unconventional technique and why I do it, here: www.gardensbyevelyn.com/the-easiest-way-to-store-dahlia-tubers
All dahlia tubers are carefully inspected for at least one “eye” prior to shipping (an eye is a tiny bud on a tuber that will sprout when planted). Sometimes eyes can be VERY small, or may not have started sprouting yet. As soon as the tuber is planted in damp soil, eye growth will begin.
Learn more about spotting eyes on dahlia tubers, here: www.gardensbyevelyn.com/how-to-identify-an-eye-on-a-dahlia-tuber
Important Note: I only ship within the continental US due to laws regarding the export of plant materials.
Learn more about me and my farm on my website: www.gardensbyevelyn.com.
Follow my newsletter for growing tips and updates: www.gardensbyevelyn.com/newsletter
Thanks for supporting my dahlia obsession,


AviGreens organic superfood greens mix
Contains nutritive grasses in
an easy to feed powder form, including Wheat Grass, Barley Grass,
Alfalfa Grass, and Oat Grass. The grasses are cold dried from young
plants to preserve maxium nutrition.
juice provides vitamins and minerals, amino acids and Zeaxanthin, which
has been shown in Harvard Medical School studies to protect eyes from
Barley grass juice provides vitamin C of oranges and calcium. It is also a good source of vitamin B12.
Alfalfa grass juice is an appetite stimulant. It provides 8 essential amino acids and carotene (vitamin A precursor).
Oat grass is an excellent source of chlorophyl, B vitamins, vitamin C and calcium.


Includes bibliographical references and index.
|Statement||editor, Chien Yi Wang.|
|Contributions||Wang, Chien Yi.|
|LC Classifications||SB319.5 .C48 1990|
|The Physical Object|
|Pagination||313 p. :|
|Number of Pages||313|
|LC Control Number||89070893|
This book provides readers with a historical background as well as current knowledge and theories on chilling injury. This exciting volume covers a broad scope of topics-from basic concepts to practical applications. This work also brings together discussions on various aspects of chilling injury. It gives basic information which describes biochemical changes, molecular basis, and concepts of Reviews: 1. INTRODUCTION and DESCRIPTION of CHILLING INJURY. Overview on Chilling Injury of Horticultural Crops. Chilling Injury of Crops of Tropical and Subtropical Origin. Chilling Injury of Crops of Temperate Origin. The Effects of Chilling Temperatures During Seed Germination and Early Seedling Growth. Ultrastructural Changes During Chilling Stress. Chilling Injury of Tropical Horticultural Commodities Chien Yi Wang Horticultural Crops Quality Laboratory, Beltsville Agricultural Research Center, Agricultural Research Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Beltsville, MD diversity of tropical horticultural crops in . Postharvest Technology of Horticultural Crops - An Overview from Farm to Fork Adel A. Kader Department of Plant Sciences, University of California Davis, CA , USA E-mail: [email protected] ABSTRACT Temperature management .
This book brings together discussions on various aspects of chilling injury to horticultural crops, both in the field and in storage. The book contains 5 introductory chapters on the description of chilling injury; 3 chapters on the contributing factors and assessment of chilling injury; 7 chapters on the biochemical changes, molecular basis, and concepts of chilling injury; and 3 chapters on. Chilling injury (CI) is a physiological defect of plants and their products that results in reduced quality and loss of product utilization following exposure to low but nonfreezing temperatures. To design more effective control strategies and maximize shelf‐life, it is necessary to develop an understanding of the biochemical mechanism(s Cited by: other horticultural crops. However, this highly expanded version also includes information on quality characteristics, maturity indices, grading, packaging, precooling, retail display, chilling sensitivity, ethylene production and sensitivity, respiration rates, physiological . Many fruits, vegetables, and ornamentals of tropical or subtropical origin are injured after a period of exposure to chilling temperatures below 10 to 15 °C (50 to 59 °F) but above their freezing points. Certain horticultural crops of template origin are also susceptible to chilling injury but have lower threshold temperatures.
results indicate that MJ or MS treatment could increase the resistance to chilling injury and pathogen invasion in chilling-sensitive crops by elevating the expression of these genes. Effect of Natural Products on Antioxidant Activity in Horticultural Crops Many natural products which showed beneficial effect in reducing chilling injury. Approaches to Reduce Chilling Injury of Fruits and Vegetables. Jules Janick; Chien Yi Wang; Published Online: 21 JUL Wang, C. Y. () Approaches to Reduce Chilling Injury of Fruits and Vegetables, in Horticultural Reviews, Volume 15 (ed J. Janick), John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Oxford, UK. doi: /ch2. Fruit of tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) exhibit a range of chilling injury (CI) symptoms following exposure to low, non-freezing temperature (≤13°C) for a period of time. Horticultural crops are an important party of the diverse agro-ecological conditions in the Indian agricultural economy. The per hectare yield of horticultural crops is very high in comparison to the other field crops. More than species and cultivars are represented in terms of vegetable, fruit, and ornamental crops.


1ST MEETING OF THE LIAISON GROUP OF THE COORDINATION MECHANISM IN FORESTRY BETWEEN CHINA AND CEEC, LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA BETWEEN 16 – 17 FEBRUARY 2017
Date: / Location: Ljubljana
Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food of the Republic of Slovenia, Dunajska 22, ground floor, 1000 Ljubljana
Members of the Liaison group of the Coordination Mechanism in Forestry between China and CEE Counties.
Mr. Marjan Podgoršek, MSc., State Secretary at the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food of the Republic of Slovenia.


Even though we're nearing Winter, it's never to late to take up gardening!
By Jason & Amber Gardner, We're Committed to Your Success!
(Hasson Company, Realtors)
Maybe you have a green thumb and you've already been gardening this year or you're like me and didn't have time and wish that you would have, and you're already thinking about what you'll do next year when the season rolls around... Well, guess what, it's never to late to have a garden! There's always "Winter Gardening" Here's some GREAT information I found and had to share... The zucchini is starting to produce and summer salads are a staple of evening dinners. It's tempting at this time of the year to put your feet up, relax and enjoy the bounty of your hard work. Yet by November, I'm often left wishing I had put in a little more effort in July so that I could harvest fresh food through the wintertime. July is the ideal month to start a winter garden. A couple of weeks seeding and ...


In the rolling green hills of the Southern Tablelands, you’ll find Mungalli Creek Biodynamic Dairy & Farmhouse Cafe. A place where Jersey, Swiss Brown and Aussie Red cows graze on lush organic pastures and happy chickens roam and forage. The Farm is in a stunning location, bordered on three sides by World Heritage Rainforest, and looking out to Queensland’s Highest mountain – Mt Bartle Frere and the famous Millaa Falls and waterfall circuit is nearby.
It’s a family affair run by Rob and Dan Watson and their team. The Watson’s have been farming Biodynamically in this pristine piece of paradise for over 30 years and they’ve developed quite the following over the years. Their fan base now extending to up and down the East Coast of Australia, though locals are unsurprisingly loyal advocates.
The Biodynamic journey started some time ago, when brothers Rob and Danny Watson took over the family farm from their parents Herb & Pat in 1986. At that time, it was still a conventional farm, but brother Rob had a different vision, which was comparatively unconventional as he set his sights on converting the farm to Biodynamic, a method of farming originally hailing from Rudolf Steiner’s teachings in Europe and relatively unheard of at the time. Ethically and sustainably driven to provide their customers with nourishing and naturally perfect food – Mungalli Creek uses no chemicals or pesticides on the land and a range of Biodynamic preparations to build life-giving hummus rich soil. It obviously makes a difference as there is an undeniable difference in the quality of the products they produce. Thirty years on, Mungalli Creek now boasts a tantalising array of hand-crafted award winning products.
Whilst Rob and Dan’s vision is to regenerate the farmland and produce the best milk, yoghurts, eggs and cheeses for the community, they also want visitors to our beautiful region to be able to enjoy the natural beauty of the farm – to experience and taste the Biodynamic difference!
The Mungalli Creek Farmhouse Café – the boy’s original family home looks out to the magnificent Mt Bartle Frere. Located just outside the Millaa Millaa township, it’s a place for lovers of fine food – boasting the “World’s Best Cheesecakes”. Chef Tracie revels in unusual and surprisingly delightful taste combinations using local native fruits, seasonal produce, local coffee, chocolate and spices – my favourites are Moroccan Date & Orange, Pomegranate & Rose, Avocado & Lime, Lavender, Native Raspberry & Mint ….. flavours change daily! If it’s savoury you crave, don’t miss their signature Cheese platter or famous Ploughman’s Lunch and all diets are catered for. There is also an array of local crafted gifts from the many Tablelands’ artisans for sale on site too. From family home to Farmhouse Café it has retained it’s warmth, homeliness and even Mum Pat’s famous Mango Chutney!


Lucinda (Lucy) Watt
National Council of Women Tertiary Scholarship Award Recipient
My name is Lucy Watt and I am a PhD Student at Charles Sturt University, studying “sheep production on hard-seeded, self-regenerating annual pasture legumes”. My studies aim to identify new pasture species for grazing by sheep in southern Australia. These farming areas have struggled with suitable pasture species to maintain pasture and animal productivity, largely due to our changing climate and environment.
I have always had a strong passion for the agricultural industry and science and was truly humbled to be the recipient of the National Council of Women of NSW Australia Day Award, that was kindly sponsored by the Country Women’s Association Sydney City Branch. You will be very happy to know that I have spent the $1000 on statistical support from a very good statistician who is assisting me greatly with my analyses. It was very well spent.
I grew up on a farm in the small village of Cumnock in Central Western NSW. As a young girl I gained a passion for agriculture from my Dad, Andrew, who is a farmer and biological agronomist. I knew from a young age that I wanted to pursue a career in the agricultural industry and my passion for science that developed in high school, set my sights on a career in agricultural/animal science, which I began studying at Charles Sturt University in 2011. In 2014, I completed my honours at Michigan State University’s Kellogg Biological Station in Michigan USA. This experience was so rewarding and my sights on a future in agricultural research, which I developed from my experience in my honours year, lead me to embark on a PhD.
I am due to complete my PhD in March 2018 and am looking forward to contributing to the progression and sustainability of our amazing agricultural industry here in Australia. The most rewarding part of my PhD is the contact that I have with farmers at on-farm field days and at forums facilitated by industry and our university research centre. Farmers have become my biggest collaborators and I appreciate their ideas and insights into industry. Being recognised as a young woman in the industry is also wonderful and has been especially rewarding. I think women have a huge amount that they can contribute to the agriculture and science sector; both have traditionally been male dominated industries in the past.
I would love to continue a career in agricultural research and development and one day become a lecturer to help encourage other young women and men to pursue a career in agricultural research. In a continually evolving world we will constantly be faced with issues that require young keen minds to help solve. I look forward to becoming a contributor to the industry and also a role model for other young women, who wish to pursue a career in agriculture and science.
Lucy completed a Bachelor of Animal Science with Honours at Charles Sturt University (CSU) in 2014, her studies being supported with scholarships for academic excellence and commitment to the rural industry and communities and for displaying passion and commitment to the Agricultural Industry of Meat and Livestock Australia Scholarship.
She has been a long-term member of the Cumnock Show Society and Cumnock Progress Association within her small rural village of Cumnock. In 2014 she was selected as Cumnock Show Girl as a young female ambassador for rural NSW and Australian Agriculture, and then went on to represent Cumnock and Zone 6 at the Sydney Royal Easter Show in 2015.
Lucy was a Dairy Research Intern in Michigan, USA and a demonstrator and research assistant at CSU. She worked in the Agricultural Advisory Service in Warren, NSW and in the Northern Territory on an RM Williams Agricultural Holdings Station. Lucy also spent time in Cambodia at the Free the Bears Wildlife Reserve. In 2015 and 2016 she was coordinator of the Animal and Agricultural Industries Fair at CSU.
She has also played netball, touch football and hockey at CSU, acted as swimming instructor for Wagga Wagga City Council and actively contributed to many aspects of the University and to Australia’s rural landscape. Lucy will be sure to contribute strongly to animal production science in Australia for many years to come


The pine forests, which cover a large part of the Huelva province including Doñana National Park and its surroundings, provide us with one of the most nutritious and important food of this land.
This dry fruit, tender and with a very characteristic flavor, is usually consumed raw or roasted, but it is also very appreciated in pastry and cooking (sauces, salads, meats, vegetables, etc.), giving them a special flavor to their dishes.
For its nutritional value and content in vitamins and minerals, it is recommended to reduce stress and cholesterol. It is also proven that during pregnancy it helps to the good formation of the fetus. They are beneficial in the prevention of osteoporosis, vascular and degenerative problems. It improves the functioning of the nervous system, prevents fatigue and is anticarcinogenic.
On top of these inherent properties, our elaboration in «Pinares de Doñana» and «Piñones de Doñana» adds the quality of our elaboration process and meticulous care.


This morning we drove to the Missouri Department of Conservation Tree Nursery in Licking, MO. We picked up our order of 100 red oaks, 100 white pines, and 100 holly and brought them back to the homestead.
When we got back to the farm we began building our windbreak. We started by staking out mason’s twine to mark the path of the trees–starting at the northeastern corner of the homesite, heading due west toward Snake Creek, then bending south. We then placed three rows of stakes at predetermined intervals to show where each tree will be planted. The stakes will also anchor the rabbit wire collars we are making to protect the seedlings from rabbits and deer.
Our reading indicated that the greatest hazard to our seedling trees was dehydration caused by bad planting technique–what the experts call “putting a five-dollar tree in a fifty-cent hole”. However, the second greatest threat is from rabbits and deer. The solution is something that prevents our trees from becoming a buffet line for fauna. Ironically, the commercially available solutions are plastic shields that cost about $2 to protect trees that cost 16-32 cents. So PaterFailias came up with a technique to bend 20″ of rabbit wire around a piece of 4″ PVC pipe to make shields for less than a dollar. We ended up having only enough time and materials to make about 150 shields, but every little bit helps.
Digging holes for the trees in the rocky soil was dificult, but we were prepared for that. What we had not counted on–and were not prepared for–was getting enough water from one of our ponds to water 300 trees.
SheWalksWithFlowers set up the water collection and transport process. It was a lot of hard work skimming water out of the pond and carrying it 150 yards to the nearest trees–and substantially farther for the rest.


Honey bees have been in rapid decline the past couple years and the White House is getting worried. Because honey bees and other pollinators are crucial to the U.S. food industry and economy, it’s an issue that is starting to create serious buzz.
“Pollinators contribute more than $24 billion to the United States economy, of which honey bees account for more than $15 billion through their vital role in keeping fruits, nuts, and vegetables in our diets,” the White House said.
According to President Obama, the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) and U.S. Department of Agriculture will work to determine why honey bees, monarch butterflies, and other pollinators are dwindling. While we know pollinators of decreased because of mite infestations, pesticides and a loss of genetic diversity, conserving them will become a key focus in research as well. (The amount of managed honey bee colonies are at just 2.5 million, down from 6 million about 50 years ago.)
This isn’t the first time the White House has shown dedicated interest to honey bees. Charlie Brandt, a White House carpenter for more than 20 years, began beekeeping as a hobby…and the Obama White House quickly embraced the idea of making honey on the grounds to use in White House recipes. Brandt is now the official beekeeper of what is believed to be the first ever White House beehive. Check out the video here:


NOURISHES & TONES
Satureja, also called "Donkey Pepper" in French.
Rich in rosmaniric acid (antioxidants) helping to restore and protect your skin barrier against external aggressions (cold, pollution, stress,...).
The Savory is cultivated by a local producer in France. This extract is made with a first cold-pressed carrier oil used as a solvent to extract the properties of the plant.
Cistus ladaniferus, recommended by Charlemagne's royal domains for its aromatic properties.
Rich in monoterpenes helping to regenerate your skin tissue.
The Cistus Ladanifer is cultivated by a local producer in France. This extract is made with a first cold-pressed carrier oil used as a solvent to extract the properties of the plant.
Camelina sativa, cultivated in Europe since more than 3000 years.
Rich in fatty acids (omega 3), vitamin E and antioxidants helping to calm and protect your skin.
The Camelina is cultivated in France. Its seeds are slowly cold-pressed to extract the oil and preserve the high quality of its active ingredients.
INCI: camelina sativa seed oil*, satureja montana extract*, cistus ladaniferus leaf extract*, cera alba*, anthemis nobilis flower oil*, rosmarinus officinalis extract*, helianthus annuus seed oil*, limonene*
*From organic farming
Nature & Progrès certified
Fabriqué par GAEC Plantes des Cévennes, 48110 Les cambous, titulaire de la mention Nature & Progrès


What is the social/environmental problem/issue that this project will address?
The current global food system is broken and the impact of this can be seen in the health of our soil and our population. We have become increasingly disconnected from the source of our food while expecting it to be produced cheaper than ever. Farmers and growers bear the brunt of these pressures and many of the risks associated with food production - increased cost of fuel and other inputs, extreme weather, market fluctuations and more. We need to build a new type of relationship with our food and the people who produce it.
Can you give us some statistics on this problem?
We’ve been working with organisations that are experts in food and farming, including the Soil Association, Organic Centre Wales and the Federation of City Farms and Community Gardens. We know that:
• 30,000 tonnes of pesticides and herbicides are used in the UK each year, over 95% of which reach destinations other than their intended target.
• Since 1970 employment in UK agriculture has more than halved and in the last year farm incomes have dropped by 14%.
• 80% of the UK population now live in towns and cities and have little or no connection to the food and food producers.
• With year on year food price inflation at 5% and falling real wages, the number of people in the UK who can't afford a good diet is rising rapidly towards 5 million.
• In 2012, three fifths of the UK population were overweight and a quarter obese. Type 2 diabetes, which is related to a bad diet, affects more than 2 million people in the UK.
What is your solution?
Our solution is community supported agriculture (CSA) - a partnership where the responsibilities, risks and rewards of farming are shared between farmers and the local community.
We know that there is massive interest in this idea, but most farmers and growers in CSA projects are really busy producing food and don’t have much time to help other people set up new projects. Our new network aims to do just that and make it easier for people to find and join a CSA, and give real support to farmers, growers and communities who want to create new schemes.
How will you deliver this?
We have just launched a new national network to promote community supported agriculture schemes in the UK. It is really in its early stages, we have a board and some funding for a coordinator but need to raise the cash to create a new website, set up events, develop online tools to help projects and organise a big national conference.
Here is what we will do over the next year with the money we raise:
Website Phase 1
We will create a comprehensive resource of all our factsheets, case studies, manuals, videos, reports and more that will be ‘easy to search’ for new and existing CSA projects. The new website will include a map with ‘shop windows’ presenting CSA projects in the UK, allowing them to list their areas of work, expertise and key documents.
This online resource will allow people interested in joining a CSA to find their local scheme, those interested in setting one up to have a range of tools to help guide them, and will help all CSAs to know where to go for specific expertise, knowledge or advice.
Regional CSA events
We know that getting together in person is even more important than a good website! We’ll work with CSA projects in six regions across the UK to bring people together to learn, share ideas and be inspired. Our regional networking events will all feature a workshop on a key topic, open space time to just pick each other’s brains, a farm walk to admire the crops and the chance to make new friends over good locally produced food and drink. These events will help to generate new CSA projects and making existing schemes even stronger.
Website Phase 2
We will build into our website loads of interactive networking tools to help CSAs communicate with each other. We’ll introduce a forum and start to facilitate discussions on hot topics and use this information to generate more fact sheets on issues that we know are important. We’ll create mechanisms for projects to post their own events and news. These tools will help us to stay in touch between events, enable CSA initiatives to support each other, and encourage peer to peer learning.
National CSA conference
We will finish off the year with a national conference to shout about our achievements. This event will mirror our regional events but on a much bigger scale. We will support a local CSA initiative to play a major role in hosting the event, giving them a national platform to talk about what they are doing to change the food system from the bottom up. We will bring in inspirational speakers, include training workshops to help new people set up new projects and of course make time to celebrate our community and share food together.


Population Genetic Studies in Ziziphus jujuba Mill.: Multiple Molecular Markers (ISSR, SRAP, ITS, Cp-DNA)
Keywords:Cp-DNA, ISSR, ITS, SRAP, Ziziphus jujube
Ziziphus jujuba (jujube) is an important horticultural crop with medicinal value. It is under cultivation in many areas of Iran and also grows as wild in several geographical populations throughout the country. We have no information on genetic variability and population structure of this important plant species in our country. Therefore, the aim of the present study was to perform genetic fingerprinting of 13 geographical populations of jujuba for the first time and provide data on population genetic structure, admixture versus genetic fragmentation of this important crop. We used multilocus molecular markers (ISSRs and SRAPs) for genetic fingerprinting and also compared the results with bioinformatics investigation results we did on jujuba cultivars by using nuclear r-DNA and chloroplast inter-genetic cp-DNA sequences. Genetic diversity parameters and AMOVA test as well as Ivanno test support some kind of genetic distinctness of the jujuba populations studied. We found that cp-DNA inter-genic sequences can also discriminate jujuba cultivars as efficient as multilocus molecular markers and therefore, a multiple molecular approaches may be used for genetic fingerprinting of jujuba. The present study revealed good level of genetic diversity among wild/ uncultivated populations of jujuba which can be used in conservation and breeding of this important horticultural crop plant within the country. As this crop has several wild geographical populations throughout the country, we plan to continue our quest to investigate many more populations in nearby future and try to utilize cp-DNA inter-genic sequences along with multilocus molecular markers for genetic discrimination of wild populations.
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Falmouth School students in years eight and nine recently returned from Nethercott farm following a week’s stay, making memories for life in the process. The group of 36 students spent their week living and working on the farm working closely together to carry out daily required tasks.
The students were responsible for feeding poultry, cattle and pigs, herding sheep, grooming and mucking out the horses and donkeys and tilling potatoes in the Victorian walled garden. Students also had to cook and bake meals for the rest of the group, learning new skills along the way.
It wasn’t all hard work for the group, as they enjoyed sessions learning about organic farming, woodland crafts as well as the chance to walking the ‘War Horse valley’, the inspiration behind Michael Morpurgo’s War Horse. Overall it was a memorable trip and one students and staff will no doubt look back at fondly for years to come.
Posted on: 17/07/17


Sipo’s Farm and 66 Glen Ave hosted the 2nd Farmers Market in Glen Rock, NJ. When talking to Tibor Sipo this morning, I asked what brought about this farmers market. Timor stated that when he talked to the owners of 66 Glen ave about the idea of a farmers market there for the residents and visitors of Glen Rock, they were thrilled to help.
Sipo’s farm had fresh corn, zucchini, peaches, peppers and much more!
What would you want to see at the farmers market? Any specific vendors?
Let us know!


This is a one-hour Garden Class I presented in my Greenhouse that was published nationwide
Merrill, the homeowner, is a bee keeper, along with several other homeowners in his neighborhood.
Sat. June 18, 6:30 pm: 30 minute Bee Keeping Class
7 - 8:30 pm: Work in the garden, weeding, etc.
This is an impressive garden and yard that he and Christy don't have time to keep up this summer. He is in school all summer taking 24 credits, getting 2 degrees and caring for his family of five.
Currently these crops are growing: asparagus, black currents, rhubarb, raspberries, plum and cherry trees, almond tree, roses, pear tree, 3 kinds of grape vines, leeks, onion, chives, Swiss Chard, collards, etc.
Merrill and Christy are long time hiking friends of mine. Considering his demanding schedule, Merrill is very generous in teaching us about bees. It will be fun making friends with more Bee Keepers in his neighborhood as well.


The agriculture and food technology has dramatically evolved in the last decades, enhancing the productivity and the output of the industry as a whole. The explosion of Information and Communication Technologies disseminated in all areas of activity, agriculture included. Taking into consideration that the world population is constantly increasing, and agriculture has the mission to feed everyone, then the only way is to improve and find new ways to rise productions continuously.
New concepts like Smart Farming and Precision Agriculture have emerged. Smart Farming is a new stage of evolution that encapsulates the top information technology into the natural management cycle of the farm.
Precision Agriculture refers mainly to the temporal and spatial management to streamline economic results following a judicious deployment of resources while preserving the environment. It incorporates decision support systems, spatial images provided by drones, hyperspectral satellite images that contribute to the creation of maps displaying measurable variables like crop yield, topography, humidity, nitrogen levels, etc.
Ultimate technologies like Cloud Computing or Internet of Things are supposed to take the evolution even further and accommodate new robot features and computer artificial intelligence in new farming technology. Using Big Data, vast volumes of variable data, which is compiled and analyzed for decision-making, will be the norm.
Novelties like precision devices, geo-positioning systems, Big Data, Internet of Things, sensors, actuators, robotics or unmanned aerial vehicles will find their way to develop into the new modern technology used in agriculture.
Smart Farming is highly intercorrelated and connected to other agriculture modern technologies like management of information systems, robotics, and automation for agriculture and precision agriculture.
Smart Farming goes beyond just using in-field variability, it bases management operations on location and data, sharpen by context awareness, unleashed by real events. Real-time assistance features are very necessary to take agile actions, particularly in situations of emergency when operational conditions or circumstances modify tempestuously, like disease alert or weather changes. The technology englobes intelligent assistance in maintenance and implementation, adds autonomous context acknowledged devices, as sensors, built-in intelligence, which executes autonomous or remote tasks. Therefore, the human role will be involved more and more at the higher intelligence level, the execution of operational tasks being delegated to machines.
Smart Farming, in its further development, may pursue two extreme directions:
– Proprietary systems that are closed and within which the farmer will be integrant part of an integrated supply chain
– Collaborative systems that are open and within which the farmer has the flexibility to choose its partners and the relevant technologies
The future development of data and infrastructures, platforms, standards and their institutional implementation will incline the balance towards one scenario or another.
Smart Farming apps are not targeted just towards the large agricultural exploitations, but also can be implemented by small and common family farms to progress in their activity and earn more income. This approach is also welcomed from the environment point of view, as it helps optimize the water consumption, inputs and treatment procedures.
Hence, for now, the use of Smart Farming, in some form, touches about 80% in the USA and just about 24% in Europe, not to speak about the rest of the world. There is a long path to cover.
Consequently, the agriculture has to become smarter and Smart Farming is the way.


The Olive Tree in the Great Southern Region
Specifically this includes:
Welcome to the index page for information relating to
the planting of olive trees, the harvesting and processing
of the fruit and the marketing of all olive products in
areas of the Great Southern Region of
The map is a portion of that contained in the
Rand McNally Dollar Atlas of the World copyright 1900.
Enjoy browsing though the information available on the site.
- A list of current members of the
Frankland River Olive Producers Association
- A list of current varieties of olives
that have been planted locally on a commercial basis.
- A list of known suppliers of olive
trees and products related to their planting and harvesting.
If you have commercial quantities of trees available, and you are not listed
on the next page, please contact us and we will include your references.
- A set of short summaries
of the local growers where I have been able to obtain good photographs.
Please email comments to
the site administrator.
Back to the DSdata main index page
Copyright 2000 DSdata
This page updated last on 29 May 2000


ALERT is one of the Italian projects funded by the Ministry of Economic Development, in the framework of the Bid “New technologies of the Made in Italy” of 2015 Industry program, under the subject “Technologies, Production Systems and Products aimed at improving the quality of life”.
The project has the objective to produce a high quality and absolute safe milk, monitored and checked by a tele-diagnostics system, licensed by the Italian Superior Institute of Health. The innovation consists in the monitoring of the product not at the end of the production chain but in continuum, starting from the primary production, that guarantees a timely collection of anomalies, in order to enable and assess immediate corrective actions.
The main technology used in the project is based on the application, at different steps of the production chain, of nanometric bio-sensors, able to note, through a metabolomic approach, the exposure of the health and the food of the animals to toxic substances and disrupters, and to advice immediately the breeders and producers. Thereby, the self-monitoring and the organisation capability of the breeding milk market improves and moves on, by optimizing the use of resources, minimizing the economic and financial losses and the social damages due to contamination alarms and accidents.
The ALERT system guarantees the whole organoleptic features of milk and consumers’ health, by increasing the value of one of the main productive sector in Italy.
Download [download id=”12″]


Orchids are unfortunately susceptible to root rot, and this is a disease that will kill a plant very quickly if you don’t deal with it as soon as you can. It’s easy to end up with this problem, so we’re going to look at how to fix orchid root rot (prevention, symptoms, fixes).
An orchid with root rot will start to droop and its flowers will drop off. You may also see yellowing leaves as the plant struggles to take in nutrients and water properly. Root rot can be fixed if you notice it in time and remove your plant from the wet environment, cutting away the damaged roots and replanting it in a fresh growing medium.
What Causes Root Rot?
Root rot is an unpleasant disease that is caused by over-watering. Orchids are not resilient when it comes to sitting in water for extended periods of time, and if your orchid has been over-watered, it is vulnerable to rotting roots.
Orchid roots have evolved to suit their specific environment and the usual water conditions that they experience. On the trees where many orchids grow, water does not stay around the roots for more than a few minutes.
The roots, therefore, suck up a large amount of water all at once, and this means that the plants have plenty to drink even when conditions turn dry.
To allow them to do this, orchids have particularly fat, spongy roots that hold onto water well. The root tissue is called velamen, and it is perfect for this. The orchid will then have plenty to drink until the next rainfall.
However, the roots themselves don’t sit in water for extended periods; they trap the water inside them. This means that they aren’t designed to cope well with water that stays on their surface, and they will quickly begin to rot if the water doesn’t drain away, as it does in their natural environment.
For this reason, it’s very important to control how much water you give orchids and to make sure that they are planted in well-draining material. Orchid bark and perlite provide a good mix that will help the water to drain away freely.
It’s also crucial to pay attention to whether your plant actually needs water before you add water to its pot. Any time you are thinking about giving your plant a drink, gently push your finger into the top inch of the growing medium. If the growing medium feels damp still, the orchid doesn’t need more water yet.
Even if it is starting to feel dry, don’t rush to give it a drink. It may not need one just yet. Over-watering is worse for your plant than under-watering it, so be stringent in how much water you offer.
What Does Root Rot Look Like?
So, what are the symptoms of root rot? Unfortunately, it is not immediately visible, because it’s in the roots and not where you can see it. However, there are some clear signs, and a combination of these is a good indication that your plant may be suffering from root rot.
One of the clearest indicators that your plant’s roots are rotting is that the plant will start to wilt and turn yellow.
Orchids can’t take up water or nutrients when their roots start rotting, so they will show signs of nutrient deficiency and dehydration. You will need to act quickly to save them because root rot will kill the plant very fast if you aren’t careful.
If the new leaves on your plant seem weak and flimsy, it’s another sign that the plant is suffering in some way. Orchid leaves are usually very tough and while new growth takes a bit of time to become firm, it should soon do so. Check the young leaves of a plant and see if they appear strong.
Another indicator lies in flower buds that fall readily. Orchids that are suffering from some form of sickness will drop flower buds that have recently formed because they can no longer sustain them. If this is happening to your orchid and it seems to be shedding buds as fast as it grows them, check its roots.
Drooping leaves are also a sign of a root problem, because they indicate the plant isn’t getting enough moisture. If you have recently watered your orchid but it is acting as though it hasn’t had a drink for months, don’t just give it more water. You need to investigate.
If you suspect root rot, the first thing you need to do is take your orchid out of its pot. Handle it gently as the roots are likely to be delicate.
If the roots are black, brown, or mushy, the plant has root rot. You can try gently poking them to see if they feel wrong. If they are soft or break away under your hand, they are rotting.
Assess how bad the damage is; this will help you establish how likely you are to be able to save the plant. If the roots are only just going mushy at the ends, your plant can probably be rescued. If most of the roots have gone mushy, your plant is probably not going to live. However, you can still try!
How Do I Fix Root Rot?
So, what can you do once you have established that your plant has root rot? The key lies in quick action, because the worse the root rot gets, the more likely the plant is to die. It will get sicker every day that it is rotting.
Let’s look at how to save a plant that is suffering from root rot.
Step One: Take The Plant Out
You need to remove your plant from the pot, and this should be done with maximum care to prevent further damage to the roots, which will be very fragile.
If your plant is in a plastic pot, start by gently flexing the edges of the pot to loosen the potting mix away from it and break up any compaction. You can also use a blunt knife, a knitting needle, or a lolly stick to disturb the potting mix.
Once you have loosened things up, get some newspaper and then put one of your hands at the orchid’s base, supporting its stem between your fingers. With the other hand, upend the pot and very carefully tip the orchid out. Make sure you are supporting its stem so this doesn’t hit something and snap.
If the orchid sticks, spend a bit more time loosening the growing medium and shaking it around so that the orchid comes free easily. This will minimize damage to the roots. Once you have got the orchid free, rest it on the newspaper.
Next, you need to remove as much of the growing medium as possible without doing further damage to the plant. Gently dust and knock the soil and potting medium off its roots, using a paintbrush or another soft tool to get the difficult soil-free, until the roots are as clear as you can get them.
Discard the soil into the compost bucket and then put the orchid on a sheet of clean newspaper so that you are working in a more sterile environment.
Step Two: Cut Away The Roots
Next, you need to remove the damaged and infected roots. This is a tricky operation and must be done with great care because the orchid needs to retain as much root as possible while ensuring you have removed the problem.
If you leave rotting roots, they could spread the disease into the healthy ones when you re-pot the plant, so this is important to handle with care.
You should find a pair of sharp scissors or pruning shears to ensure you are able to make clean cuts, rather than ragged ones.
Sterilize the scissors in some boiling water, or wipe them down with rubbing alcohol, bleach, or a household disinfectant such as dish soap. You may want to keep a bowl nearby so you can keep sterilizing the tool as you work (refresh the boiling water regularly if that’s what you are using).
Get comfortable so that you can take your time, and then examine your orchid’s roots again. You need to carefully remove any that have become mushy, black, or dark brown. Work slowly, handling the roots with care so that you don’t do further damage to healthy roots.
Cut away everything that looks like it has been damaged, and discard this material. Free up any remaining clumps of soil from the plant; you don’t want any growing medium to remain, as this could also be contaminated.
You do want to leave as many healthy roots as you can, so try to strike a balance between removing the infection and leaving your plant with enough roots to recover. This is not easy and every case is different, so you will have to just use your best judgment in order to deal with it.
Step Three: Treat The Remaining Roots
It’s likely that even the healthy roots have been contaminated by the fungus that is attacking the mushy ones, and you don’t want to remove all the roots, or the plant will certainly die.
The best way to solve this dilemma is to treat the remaining roots with a fungicide that will kill off any spores and give the roots some protection from fungal attacks.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to avoid harming your plant further or burning its delicate roots. You are going to need to be very gentle with your orchid for a while if it is to recover, so don’t just douse the roots in fungicide, but adhere to the given directions. Your orchid will be much happier.
Step Four: Let The Plant Dry
You might be very keen to now get your orchid back into a pot with some nice fresh growing medium and let it start recovering, and that’s very understandable, but unfortunately, there are a few steps left first.
First, get some clean kitchen towel and gently dab wads of it against your orchid’s roots to soak the excess moisture away from them. This should again reduce the chances of the fungus encroaching on the remaining roots, because it needs damp conditions to thrive in.
Keep blotting and soaking up moisture until you feel you’ve got the roots as dry as you can; this gives your plant the best chance of success in getting over the root rot. Now, you need to let the air do the rest for a while.
Take a sheet of clean newspaper and spread it out, and then transfer the orchid to this. Leave it for the next twelve hours or so, up to a day. It needs to be out of any direct sunlight, preferably somewhere cool and shady, but not damp.
Do not put your orchid in the sun to dry its roots. They will be very vulnerable and will burn fast. Direct sun exposure at this point is almost certain to kill the plant, so be careful.
Once it is in a shady spot, you can leave it and move on to the next step.
Step Five: Source A Pot
Assess your orchid’s previous container. Does it have good enough drainage holes? If the orchid’s root rot was caused by you accidentally over-watering it, it’s possible that the holes are sufficient, but you should make sure before you choose the same container again.
You can make more holes by drilling carefully through the pot (if it is plastic) or just choose another container.
You should also check that the pot is about the right size. Orchids do not like having a lot of space around their roots, and this also makes it harder to get watering right, so if the pot was too large or too small, choose a different one.
In general, orchids prefer to have pots that are between four and six inches, unless they are very large or very small plants. Don’t use a pot that is very deep, as these plants usually have shallow roots and they won’t stretch down for water. Deep pots also make it easier to over-water.
Whether you are changing the container or not, it is a good idea to disinfect the pot you plan to use to remove anything that might attack your vulnerable plant. This is particularly key if you are re-using the same container, as fungal spores could be clinging to it.
Wash the pot in hot, soapy water, and rinse it with bleach. This should kill anything that is lingering in the soil remnants or on the surface of the container.
Step Six: Prepare The Pot
Next, you should add the growing medium to the pot. It is a good idea to put lots of drainage material in the container, particularly near the bottom, as this will encourage the water to drain away from the roots and reduce the chances of root rot reoccurring. Some people line the entire bottom with gravel or perlite.
You can make your own orchid mixture, or you can buy it ready made from many garden centers and nurseries.
Your orchid does like to have a firm base to stand in, so don’t fill the pot with sand. Instead, opt for a mixture of orchid bark, perlite, small gravel, and compost. This will give your plant plenty of nutrients, but will also provide the drainage and solidity that it requires.
Some people also mix charcoal into their orchid mix, and many forgo the compost entirely, as the plant will take up nutrients from liquid fertilizer just as well. However, if you wish to include compost, you can do so in small quantities.
Prepare enough of this mixture to fill the pot, leaving a small amount of space for the orchid’s roots, and then wait for the orchid to finish its drying so that you can replant it. Don’t do so straight away as the orchid’s roots need time to dry thoroughly.
Step Seven: Plant Your Orchid Again
Once the twelve hours (or more) are up, you can replant your orchid. First, tip a bit of your potting mixture into the pot, until it is about a third to halfway full. Add some to the edges of the pot, and then gently transfer your orchid into the resulting hollow.
Slowly add more potting mixture around the edges of the plant, being careful not to do further damage to its roots as you work. It is a good idea to pack the mix in fairly tightly so that the orchid is well supported, but don’t press so hard that you snap any of its remaining roots.
When you have filled the pot to the top, press down on the surface gently to compact the potting mix and give the orchid a snug and supportive environment.
Next, you need to put your orchid somewhere that it will thrive. It takes a lot of energy for plants to regrow damaged roots and they are often shocked by the experience, so you will have to treat your plant very gently.
Don’t fertilize it straight away; there should be plenty to eat in the new potting mix, and it will likely use stores of food that it already has before taking up more nutrients.
Instead, find it a well-lit spot with no direct sunlight, and place it there. Direct sun will burn the leaves and stress the plant, but if you don’t have an alternative, just place a shade between your plant and the sun to protect it. A thin curtain or even a paper shade should do the trick, protecting it from the heat of the sun’s rays.
Step Eight: Water With Care
You probably don’t want to water your plant again for some time as it will still have water in its roots, but of course, you will have to resume watering within a few days, perhaps a week, of replanting it.
Pay more attention to your watering routine this time, as a second bout of root rot is likely to kill the plant, especially while it is still vulnerable. Don’t water according to a schedule, but instead check that the plant’s growing medium has dried out before you give it another drink.
When you water your orchid, you should fully saturate its soil, not just give it a light drink now and again. These plants are used to truly drenching showers, followed by dry periods, so you want to mimic these conditions as closely as possible.
Water the orchid until you see the water run out of its pot, and then empty the saucer beneath it and leave it for the next few days. If the saucer remains wet, empty it again so that the water can keep draining out away from the orchid’s roots.
You should also aim to use rainwater or softened water, as orchids dislike the lime in tap water. When the roots have been damaged and the plant is vulnerable, this is particularly important.
How often you need to water your orchid will heavily depend on where you are, the conditions in your home, the season, the growing mixture you have used, and possibly other conditions too, so it’s important to actually check whether the plant requires water or not before giving it any. This is the best way to avoid root rot in the future.
Hopefully, your plant will soon recover. Unfortunately, root rot has often gone too far before it is detected, and some plants cannot be saved no matter how hard you try. However, with any luck, your orchid will soon be thriving again.
Ensure that it has plenty of sunlight, nutrients, and a good misting from time to time to keep it happy and healthy, and don’t water it too often in the future.
Root rot can kill an orchid quickly, but if you look out for the warning signs and take prompt action, you may be able to save the plant. You can reduce the chances of root rot by using a good growing medium, making sure the container has drainage holes, and only watering when the plant is dry.


Watering and Care of your new Tree
A sprinkler system or soaker hose is NOT ADEQUATE to water your tree—they just don't water deep enough. The following is the proper way to water:
Place a hose inside the mulch basin. Let the water run slowly for about 20 –30 min. for 15-30g, 60-90 min. 45g and up (or until root ball is saturated). Weather variances can affect your watering schedule. Use the “Cake Test” method this is done by inserting a probe such as a mop handle into the soil about 1 to 3 feet (depending on how big the tree is) where the new tree roots meet your native soil to see if it is wet, damp or dry. If there is a slushing sound or water dripping off of the end-DO NOT WATER. Assess in a day or two to make sure hole is well drained. If there is no trace of dampness, it is dry-
As a general rule monitor the moisture level of the soil no less than
every 2-3 days. Carefully watch your new tree. Monitor for signs of poor health such
as leaf yellowing (except in fall), edges of leaves browning or leaf drop.
These are signs that your tree is stressing.
Your tree needs attention.
The most common reason for poor survival of new trees is inconsistent watering. If you plan to take holidays away from home, consider a hose end timer to ensure proper watering. Regular watering will greatly improve the tree’s health and appearance during this critical establishment period.
Fertilization: We are primarily an ORGANIC Garden Center offering limited
synthetic products. Please do not fertilize with anything other than organic products.
Weed and Feed fertilizers can harm your tree your tree if it can kill weeds than it can kill your tree. The tree should not need any additional fertilizing
after we plant for the first year.


Here is the percent of normal precipitation across the contiguous U.S. the last 90 days:
|Click to enlarge. Map from NOAA.|
Much of the nation could use more moisture.
|15-day rainfall forecast from NOAA.|
The good news is that more moisture is on the way for many areas that need it while missing the too-wet areas of Montana and North Dakota. The lightest shade of green is one inch or more and blue is 4 to 5.99 inches.
However, moisture is desperately needed from southwest Oklahoma into New Mexico and it looks like that area will be missed.


Learn how to grow a garden that will feed you and your family, just what you need. We’ll go over prepping soil, starting seeds indoors, preparing a crop plan, with successive crops and successful winter gardening. We’ll talk about common trouble spots, and how to bring about the simplicity of gardening. Throw in a little seaweed and you’re good to go!
Miranda Chiasson grew up in the woods of the Fraser Valley and loved digging up ferns, planting sticks and cuddling cats. She has grown into an adult who still lives for plants and cats. Miranda has run a 2.5 acre organic farm for 5 years. Gardening seems to be something that she can’t live without.
10+ | $40 (includes seed package)


There are no articles in this category. If subcategories display on this page, they may have articles.
- Books, pamphlets, etc. on postharvest latest edition.
- E-books on postharvest and other related fields on iPad.
- Reprints and vertical file on postharvest technology of fruits, vegetables, root crops and ornamentals are acquired from different journals, technical papers, research reports annual reviews, bulletins, books and other publications.
- Abstract bibliography of postharvest theses/ dissertations.
- Technical Reports are publications generated from research projects.
- Compilation of newspaper clippings in postharvest of perishable crops and other related fields by commodities.


With over 20 years of working in the Logistics industry, we recognized a need for specialty care in transporting produce. Our farmers work hard to grow a healthy, quality product and our goal is to get it to the consumer as fresh as the day it was harvested. Fresh Transport maintains the highest standards for cleanliness, temperature control, prompt pickup, and delivery. We work with only the best so that we can provide the best service for you.
The Fresh Transport team is very experienced in the field of Logistics and will provide you with top-notch customer support. Our loads are tracked 24/7 with an agent on call to keep our customers up to date day or night.
We recognize that produce is precious cargo, and we ensure it is treated as such. We go to work for our customers to ensure they get the best quality service. If you need your produce moved right, call Fresh Transport today.
We also have connections all over the country to connect you with any dry-goods shipping needs.


2019’s featured plants are snapdragon, pumpkin, Salvia nemorosa and dahlia.
Each year National Garden Bureau (NGB), the non-profit organization that promotes gardening on behalf of the horticulture industry and its members, encourages the use of selected plants for its “Year of the” program.
For 2019, they are:
• Annuals: Year of the Snapdragon: A nostalgic plant that has been updated for today’s garden.
• Vegetables/edibles: Year of the Pumpkin: A wide variety of sizes, shape and colors make this a very fun class to promote!
• Perennials: Year of the Salvia nemorosa: Commonly known as Woodland Sage and is a great food source for pollinators.
• Bulbs: Year of the Dahlia: Highlighted in cooperation with the American Dahlia Society, a respected organization that helped make the NGB dahlia photo library the most extensive in “Year of” history!
Promotional marketing materials for the four 2019 “Year of the” classes are now available on the National Garden Bureau’s website.


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SMART CLOUD FARMING
95 % of our food comes from soil . Yet, each year an area of healthy soil the size of Slovakia becomes destroyed globally. At the same time, an increasing world population demands more food under changing climate conditions. This trend leaves us with 50 more years of productive farming and food security. Among the main causes of soil destruction are its mistreatment and ineffective weather adaptation strategies in farming caused by a lack of soil information. Soil health requires soil information.
Status Kapitalsuche: Auf Kapitalsuche
Höhe des gesuchten Kapitals: 600 000,00 €
Unternehmensphase: Seed-Phase (Idee bzw. Vorgründung)
Gründer: Dr. Bastian Kubsch, Michele Bandecchi, Tarun Garg
SMART CLOUD FARMING develops a solution - SoilEye - which optimizes crop yields as well as enhances soil health. SoilEye observes soil from the sky and from space and sets it into the focus of farming actions. SoilEye’s cloud-based A.I. combines soil information with climate and crop data to offer decision-making for farming actions. Therefore, SoilEye: - increases food health by reducing fertilizer and pesticide usage - ensures food security by optimizing crop yields - adapts soil treatment and crop cultivation to climate change - guarantees soil fertility by enabling precise and customized treatment - reduces water pollution by decreased fertilizer run-off - protects the climate by preventing greenhouse gas emissions from soil erosion - contributes to Sustainable Development Goals from the United Nations
SMART CLOUD FARMING addresses the goal of soil erosion reducing and avoiding soil degradation. In fact, land degradation can be reduced through the application of sustainable soil management practices that require a comprehensive and thorough soil profiling and analyses. Soil degradation (and therefore SOC loss) majorly emerges from agricultural topsoil (top 30 cm), and therefore the topsoil has the foremost restoration potential. To accomplish that, it is necessary to develop agricultural systems that combine high yields with close-to-natural soil organic carbon levels by the right treatment. Decreased land-based emissions would leave more of the available global carbon budget of 170-320 Gt C from vegetation and soil intact, thus contributing to keep the global temperature increase below 1.5°C to 2°C.
Interesse an der Teilnahme an einem Inkubatoren- oder Accelerator-Programm?
SMART CLOUD FARMING Hardenbergstraße 38 , 10623 Berlin Deutschland


Producing wines in harmony with nature, so that they always reflect the characteristics of the terroir and the varietal.
Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Muskat-Ottonel
This vineyard is one of the jewels of Domaine Sunnen-Hoffmann.
Its more than 2 ha of vines with southeastern exposure grow Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer and even Muskat-Ottonel. The majority of the vines are over 25 years old. With slope gradients of up to 36 % and clayey soil with substructures characterised by minerals, these vines produce generous and full-bodied wines with a very delicate nose. Well-sheltered, the valley enjoys a fertile microclimate.
This 0.22 ha vineyard right in the heart of the renowned Felsbierg has due southern exposure. A quarter of the Riesling was planted in 1982 and three quarters was planted in 1943. The age of the vine, the quality of the varietal, and the unique combination of dominant limestone with a clay component results in some great Rieslings with a classy minerality.
Auxerrois, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris
This 1.75 ha vineyard with an average slope gradient of 36% is planted with Auxerrois, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. Its clayey soil and younger vines produce fruity, vinous wines.
This 1.07 ha vineyard planted with Riesling is split into two parts: young vines (0.89 ha) with south-southeastern exposure and more mature vines (0.18 ha) with due southern exposure. Planted in 1987, this is one of the very few vineyards in Remerschen to be facing due south. The limestone component of this clayey soil makes it possible to produce really delicate and elegant Rieslings.
Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Rivaner
This 0.55 ha plot is planted with Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Rivaner.
With fertile, clayey soil and southeastern exposure, this terroir lends itself to structured, silky wines.
Vineyard of 0.75 ha located on the Schengen Markusbierg plateau. With southeastern exposure, this clayey soil with a slight limestone influence (Muschelkalk) gives wines a fruity, fresh aspect.
Since 2000, we have been working and cultivating our plots in an environmentally friendly way that follows the criteria for organic farming.
BIO MAART Walferdange
Dear customers, We will be present at Bio Maart Walfer saturday 23th of september from 9 am to 1.30 pm near Hall Sportif you are…
Domaine de la Mordorée agriculture bio and biodynamie
The new vintage 2021 is available for Châteauneuf and Lirac Red from the Domaine de la Mordorée. Don’t hesitate to take them in your wine…
SUMMER TASTING 2023 from June the 30th to July the 2nd
SUMMER TASTING 2023 tasting of our wines and crémants, and a nice selection of some references from France and Italy. When: june the 30th…
SUNSHINE = ROSÉS WINE
Dear Customers, The sun is back and so are our organic Rosé wines from the vintage 2022 – Libellula Rosé de notre Domaine – les…
30 march to 2nd april 2023
30 et 31 march Wine Tasting at Ettelbruck 01 and 02 april Via Mosel in our cellars at Remerschen www.viamosel-events.com
SPRINGTIME TASTING 2023
You are kindly invited to our springtime tasting from 24th to 26th of march 2023 In our cellars at Remerschen 6, Wisswée From 2 to…


Harvesting Success: Exploring the Best Minecraft Farm Servers for Agriculture Enthusiasts
15 October, 2022
Minecraft, the beloved sandbox game, has captured the imaginations of players young and old with its boundless creativity and open-world possibilities. While Minecraft offers various gameplay styles, one aspect that has garnered a dedicated following is farming. For those who have a green thumb and a passion for agriculture, Minecraft farm servers provide the perfect virtual platform to cultivate crops, raise livestock, and build a thriving agricultural empire. In this article, we will delve into the world of Minecraft farm servers and explore some of the best ones that cater to agriculture enthusiasts.
The Appeal of Minecraft Farm Servers
Farming in Minecraft is more than just planting crops and tending to animals; it's about building a sustainable ecosystem, trading with fellow players, and creating a harmonious balance between nature and productivity. Minecraft farm servers take this concept to the next level by offering an immersive and cooperative farming experience. Here are some reasons why players are drawn to these servers:
Community and Collaboration: Farm servers foster a sense of community where players work together, share resources, and exchange knowledge. Cooperative farming allows for larger-scale projects and greater efficiency.
Realistic Farming Simulations: Some farm servers aim to provide a realistic farming experience with detailed crop growth, seasons, and animal breeding mechanics. These servers can challenge players to manage their resources wisely and make strategic decisions.
Economy and Trade: Many farm servers have robust economic systems, allowing players to buy, sell, and trade their agricultural produce. This adds a layer of complexity to the gameplay and encourages entrepreneurship.
Creative Building: Farming goes hand in hand with creative building in Minecraft. Players can design intricate farms, barns, and pastoral landscapes, showcasing their architectural talents.
Exploring the Best Minecraft Farm Servers
Greenfields is a well-established farm server known for its picturesque landscapes and vibrant community. The server provides players with extensive farmland, where they can grow crops, raise livestock, and participate in seasonal events. With a focus on cooperation and sustainable agriculture, Greenfields offers a wholesome farming experience.
Inspired by the popular farming simulation game, Farmville brings the agricultural charm to Minecraft. This server boasts a vast and diverse range of crops, including seasonal specialties. Players can engage in trading, take part in farming challenges, and unlock achievements as they progress in their farming journey.
For players seeking a challenging and unique farming experience, Agrarian Skies is an excellent choice. This server features a skyblock world with limited resources, where players must build floating farms and use their ingenuity to thrive in an otherwise hostile environment.
The Farming Life
True to its name, The Farming Life offers a comprehensive and immersive farming experience. With realistic crop growth and lifelike animal behavior, this server provides a more authentic farming simulation. Additionally, players can engage in village life, interact with NPCs, and explore quests related to agriculture and rural life.
Minecraft farm servers provide a refreshing and rewarding gameplay experience for agriculture enthusiasts. Whether you dream of tilling the virtual soil, raising livestock, or engaging in a bustling economy, these servers offer a myriad of opportunities to sow the seeds of success. Joining a Minecraft farm server opens the door to a vibrant community, cooperative gameplay, and endless farming adventures. So, put on your overalls, grab your virtual pitchfork, and step into the bountiful world of Minecraft farming. Harvesting success awaits!


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Last Updated: 2021-05-04 by Madeline Jakubowski


N. F. Railway has run Kisan Rail trains to and from North Eastern Region to strengthen the supply chain and help farmers in transporting their produce to larger markets. N. F. Railway has operated fifteen Kisan Rail trains from January to July of this current year from Dhupguri, Falakata and Jalpaiguri in West Bengal to Agartala in Tripura and Bhanga in Assam for transportation of potatoes.
From January to December, 2021, 40 Kisan Rails have been operated to carry more than 12500 tonnes of consignments. During the current year from January to July, 15 Kisan Rail trips have transported more than 6500 tonnes of consignments.
The transportation of fruits and vegetables by Kisan Rail are granted a subsidy of 50% on the tariff chargeable, so that local farmers are benefited.Kisan Rail Trains help in transporting perishable, agri-produces such as fruits and vegetables to the markets in various places across the country. This in turn enables farmers/producers to realise better value for their products.
At present, the locations like Agartala, Dimapur, Changsari, New Guwahati, Jorhat Town, Azara, Tinsukia, Bhanga are being covered by “Kisan Rail” in Northeast Frontier Railway. For detail information regarding Kisan Rail services, one can contact officials at divisional level or at Headquarters level.


Quick Start Guide
Dig A Hole
3 Gallon Plants: Dig 24" wide x 9" deep
1 Gallon Plants: Dig 12" wide x 7" deep
Add Compost (Optional)
3 Gallon Plants: Add 1 shovel of compost and mix in
1 Gallon Plants: Add one-half shovel of compost and mix in
Place plant gently in the hole, green side up
Fill the hole with soil
Spread a 2" layer of mulch around the plant
Complete Beginner's Guide
- Pick a great home for your plant. Double check our plant description to make sure the spot you've chosen has the right amount of sunlight, space to grow, soil moisture, etc. If you'd like a little extra help with this, read Right Plant - Right Place: Tips for Low-Maintenance Gardening.
- Dig the hole. This will be easier than you think! While the hole needs to be wide, it doesn't need to be deep. Dig the hole 12" wider than the rootball for shrubs and 18" wider for trees. Dig deep enough so that 1/8th of the rootball will sit above ground. For easy clean-up, place a tarp on the ground and put the dirt coming out of the hole on the tarp. Remove any large rocks, roots or debris from the soil as you go.
- Mix in some compost. A little organic matter will help to give the roots a good start. Mix whatever is on hand - compost, manure (not fresh), grass clippings, rotted leaves - into the dirt on the tarp.
- Gently remove the plant from the pot and loosen the roots. This will be a snap if you water the plant a few hours before planting. If not, you can set the pot on its side and lightly tap it with the shovel. (Like tapping the lid of a jar.) Handle the plant by the root ball, not by the trunk or branches. If there are a lot of roots circling the dirt or matted at the bottom of the root ball, loosen them so that they hang more freely. It sounds scary, but you can use scissors, pruners or the side of the shovel to cut roots that are too tightly wound for you to loosen with your fingers. Don't worry - you won't hurt the plant. The idea here is to gently loosen the roots a bit so that they spread out into the soil faster.
- Now place or gently roll the root ball into the hole, being careful not to drop the plant into the hole. The top of the root ball should be at ground level or slightly above. If the top of root ball is lower than ground level, add more soil to the bottom of the hole to elevate the root ball.
- Almost there. Position the plant in the hole and start filling the hole with the dirt on the tarp, keeping the plant standing straight. Tamp down the soil with your hand, foot or shovel. Add a little more soil if necessary. Pull away any dirt that is piled up against the trunk or stems.
- Spread 2-3" of organic mulch on top of the dirt. It is best to use shredded hardwood mulch. Make a saucer around the trunk to be sure the mulch is not touching the bark. Mulching is a super-important key to happy, thriving plants. Learn more about mulch here.
- To stake a tree: Hammer a stake into the ground about 6" beyond the edge of the hole. Attach biodegradable rope tightly around the stake and loosely around the trunk. Remove the stakes in 6 months or in 12 months if the location is windy.
- Water thoroughly right away. How much water and when you water depends on how big the plant is and what time of year it is. Regardless, it is important to water slowly and deeply to make sure the water moistens the whole root ball. Tips for Watering.


Remember our first session this past season, "Super Wheat" with USDA wheat geneticist, Cheryl Baker? Remember she brought little vials of wheat for us to look at and taste?
I got an email from the Slavens family a while back. They said, "Thank you for giving us the wheat. We planted it and look how much it has grown! Thank you lots! :)"
Recently I received this update: "We have harvested the wheat and hope to get it cleaned, the old fashioned way, with a sheet and some breeze. Our goal is to eventually make some bread! Wish us luck!"
Is that cool, or what? Good luck to you, and let us know how it goes with the bread!


Historically, flaxseed has been used for food and feed for animals for several thousand years in Europe, Asia and Africa, and more recently in Canada and the United States. Oil pressed from flax seed also has been a basic cooking oil in China and other countries for centuries.
So-called LINSEED OIL pressed from flaxseed is an "industrial" oil that is used for paints, coatings, linoleum, and many other products. Linseed oil is pressed and further extracted from flax seed with a petroleum solvent. Industrial linseed oil is not useable for food or feed, although the linseed oil meal remaining after linseed oil extraction is used for animal, principally dairy, feed.
Fiber in the stem of flax plants is used for producing linen sheets, napkins, table cloths and clothing, and for FINE PAPERS, like bible paper, other parchment paper, and cigarette paper. The early pioneers to North America brought flax with them for linen production. Flax production moved westward, at first for linen production and later as a seed crop for linseed oil production. Competition from cotton, synthetic fibers and, cheaper vegetable oils and petroleum substitutes reduced the need to produce flaxseed for linseed oil or fiber.
Flaxseed is now produced primarily in North Dakota in the United States. Flax acreage is increasing in recent years because of increased use for food, and feed for PETS, SHOW ANIMALS, and other COMPANION ANIMALS.
Flaxseed in vegetarian diets is a good source of essential fatty acids, protein, carbohydrates, the phytochemical LIGNAN, potassium and other nutrients.back to top
FLAX SEED IS A RICH SOURCE OF OMEGA 3 FATTY ACIDS AND LIGNANS.
FLAX SEED HEALTH BENEFITS Ground flax seed is a source of Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) and lignans that exhibit a number of properties that are essential to good health.
Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) is both an essential fatty acid and an omega-3 fatty acid that can aid in:
Lignans are plant substances that, when ingested, are broken down in the digestive system into two main lignans, enterodiol and enteolactone. These lignans circulate thru the liver and are subsequently excreted in the urine. Lignans are thought to bind to estrogen receptors in the body and reduce the risk of hormonally related cancers. Flax seed is the richest know source of lignans.
Ground Flax Seed is also rich in protein, B vitamins, vitamin E, beta-carotene, calcium, potassium, magnesium, manganese and zinc. The fiber benefits of flax seed can only be found in the ground flax seed.
Typical ground flax seed intake: 25 to 30 grams/day Flax Seed Nutritional Data
Note: For optimum nutrient value, use ground flax seeds instead of flax oil. Flax oil contains omega-3 fatty acids, but it does NOT contain the beneficial lignans and fiber. The lignans and fiber are removed in the production process to increase shelf life.back to top
The answer is quite simple. In this day of processed foods, by grinding your own Golden Flax Seed from Stevens' Sales, LLC you know exactly what you are consuming.
Our Natural Golden Flax Seed is fresh from the farm and is NOT genetically modified. (AKA: GMO)back to top
There is not much difference between Brown and Golden Flaxseed other than Golden Flax Seed has more of a nutty taste. Nutritionally they are very similar. Our Natural Golden Flax and Roasted Golden Flax have the same nutritional value.back to top
Flax Seed in the whole seed form will store easily for over two years. It does not need to be refrigerated or frozen, just store it in a food storage container out of the sunlight. Once the Flaxseed is ground it should be refrigerated or frozen.
Our Roasted Flaxseed (in the whole seed form) is shipped in vacuum sealed bags. Once the bags are opened the Roasted Flax Seed should be refrigerated or frozen to ensure freshness and quality. The Golden Roasted Flax has a guaranteed shelf life of 1 year.back to top
What makes us different from the rest?
Our Omega Golden Flaxseed is cleaned and graded for human consumption. We strive to provide only the plumpest Flax Seeds giving our customers a very uniform product.
When you place your order you are talking directly to the people that raise the Golden Flax from planting, harvest, processing, packaging, ordering, & yes even shipping. There are only a few marketing Flax on the web that are actually involved in production agriculture.back to top
We are a family run operation. Most of the time your phone orders will be taken by one of our family members. When you place an order online using our shopping cart you can be assured that you are placing your order securely. Just look in your address bar and it should read https:// The S stands for a secure server. UPS Transit Map
Phone orders: 1-888-783-2545 toll free
All orders received by 11:00 AM will be shipped the same day.
We Ship UPS & US Postal Priority Mailback to top
YES, Our 100% Satisfaction Guarantee makes it easy, convenient, and safe for you to shop with us 24 hours a day, seven days a week. We guarantee the finest quality, service, and security available online today.
YOUR COMPLETE SATISFACTION IS OUR GOAL!
We are proud of our record: Satisfied Customers 99.05% Return .95% (results from our accountant)
*Return Policy: The Buyer is responsible for all return shipping costs and may only return one opened package all other packages must have their original seal. A 10% restocking fee will be accessed plus original shipping charges we have incurred. It the buyers responsibility to provide a correct UPS shipping address. If you want your order shipped other than UPS please contact us prior to placing your order. UPS does not ship to PO Boxes or APO addresses. All our shipments are made in new boxes meeting our shippers standards. Any damaged merchandise during shipment must be settled with the shipping company.
We Ship UPS & US Postal Priority Mailback to top
Yes, our Flax Seed works great for the purpose of creating aromatheraphy products such as wraps and pillows. Our flaxseed is free of weed seeds and debris that may eventually work their way through the fabrics. Click here for Flax Seed for crafts and animal feed.back to top
Contact us at email@example.com All messages will be replied to within 24 hours.
Or call us at 1-888-783-2545 or 701-362-7331
Office Hours: 8:00am - 5:30pm CST, Mon-Sat