hat
Vag transfere enèji. Lè vag dlo yo se nan dlo ki louvri, enèji sa a tou senpleman deplase. Lè vag la rive nan yon diskontinwite, menm si, se mouvman an lis nan enèji koupe; nan ka yon plaj oswa yon miray wòch, pwopagasyon vag se pa posib ankò. Men, kisa k ap pase nan enèji a ki te ke yo te transfere pa vag la? Li pa ka disparèt; li dwe swa absòbe oswa reflete. Miray wòch la pa absòbe enèji vag la, kidonk refleksyon fèt — enèji a kontinye pwopaje nan fòm vag, men nan direksyon opoze a. Plaj la, sepandan, pèmèt enèji nan vag yo gaye nan yon fason pi gradyèl ak natirèl. Plaj la absòbe enèji vag la, epi konsa refleksyon minimòm rive.
eng
Waves transfer energy. When water waves are propagating through open water, this energy is simply moving. When the wave reaches a discontinuity, though, the smooth movement of energy is interrupted; in the case of a beach or a rock wall, wave propagation is no longer possible. But what happens to the energy that was being transferred by the wave? It cannot disappear; it must be either absorbed or reflected. The rock wall does not absorb the wave energy, so reflection occurs—the energy continues propagating in wave form, but in the opposite direction. The beach, however, allows the wave energy to dissipate in a more gradual and natural way. The beach absorbs the wave’s energy, and thus minimal reflection occurs.