I am fascinated by surfing and how it's such a great metaphor for *life*. You never know what kind of size or wave you'll be riding, moving forward on a crest or a deep face....
Strangely enough I'm actually a surfer I live right on the water in Maryland.  Have you ever been? 
Nooooo! But I'm curious if you've surfed both coasts and your experience? Or if you do/have done artificial wave pool type surfing?