It is, I find, impossible to describe all the interesting habits and customs we observed of this primitive people.  The next day about noon we found ourselves, on issuing from a grove of cocoa-nut trees, on the shore of a beautiful bay, with high black rocks running out on either side, and a yellow, sandy beach.  From the way the sea broke, first with great violence, and then a second time with diminished force, there were evidently two lines of coral reefs, one without the other.  A number of people were seated on the rocks watching with great interest what was going forward.  Some men, women, and children were in the water, while others with their boards, about a foot wide and four feet long, in their hands, were preparing to follow them.  Placing the boards on the water, they threw themselves on them, and then swam out, diving under the breakers of the inner bar, and appearing on the in-shore side of the outer one.  The great art appeared to be, to remain on the steep slope of the outer sea-roller as it swept majestically on towards the land, and then, just before it broke, to dive under it, and to reappear mounting up the side of the following watery hill.  Sometimes a lad would keep above water too long, and the surf would roll him over, and carry away his board; but he quickly recovered it, and soon regained his credit.  Shouts of laughter bursting forth on all sides when any such mishap occurred, showed that there was little fear of damage.  The women and children kept generally on the inner bar, but were quite as expert as the men.  On mounting to the top of the rocks we saw two of the men swim out beyond the rest, on the further side of the breakers.  The natives seemed to be watching them attentively.  Soon one of them was seen to dive, then the other.  In a little time they both appeared, flourishing their knives above their heads, and at the same moment two huge black bodies floated to the surface, and were borne in by the rollers towards the shore.