Newcastle stands on the north bank of the river.  At first we thought it a very smoky town, but on emerging from the narrow old streets we reached some fine broad thoroughfares with large houses and magnificent public buildings.  At the quays were a vast number of vessels, some of considerable size.  Formerly coals used to be put on board vessels from the oval boats I have before mentioned, called keels, of which a considerable number are still employed.  Each keel carries about twenty tons of coal, the larger masses being piled up in the vessel, but smaller coal is carried in tubs, each keel having about eight tubs.  The keels are antique-looking craft, such as were probably used in the earliest days of our history.  They are propelled by large oars.  The keel man, commencing at the bow, presses the oar before him, until he reaches the after part of the boat; he then hurries back to the bow, and again puts down his oar.  The keel men are a fine hardy race.  Formerly they were spoken of as "bullies;" but this, among the colliers, means "brothers," or is derived from "boolie," that is, "beloved."  Though their manners are rough, their character is good, and they are remarkably friendly to each other.  Being all "keel bullies" or "keel brothers," they support an extensive establishment in Newcastle called the "Keelmen's Hospital."  We met a whole fleet of these keels as we came up, working their way down with their "puys" or oars.  A considerable quantity of coal is scattered over the sides when hoisting it on board, and this is brought back by the flood tide into shallow water, where a number of people are seen in their little cobles dredging for it.