We had clear evidence that we were in a region of coal.  The greater number of vessels we met were colliers, their crews begrimed with coal dust.  "Everybody," as Dick remarked, "had a coaly look."  People were heard conversing in a broad Northumbrian accent, with a burr in most of their words.  They were broad-shouldered men, capable of doing any amount of hard work.  We came in sight of a fine stone bridge with nine elliptical arches, which connects Newcastle with Gateshead, on the opposite bank.  Above it is another magnificent bridge; it is double, the lower roadway, ninety feet above the river, being used for carriages and foot passengers, while the upper carries the railway.  It has two piers at the margin of the river, and four others in the stream itself, besides smaller piers.  It was curious to walk under it, and to hear the trains rumbling by overhead.