The valleys, and a plain which extends from the sea-shore to the spurs of the mountains, are very fertile, and produce in great abundance all tropical plants.  The climate is warm, but not enervating; the scenery is in many parts very beautiful.  Thus the natives are tempted to lead an easy and idle life, exerting but little their physical and mental powers.  It is, indeed, to their credit that they do not altogether abandon themselves to indolence.  They are by nature constituted to enjoy the beautiful scenes by which they are surrounded.  Consequently, they delight in building their cottages in the most retired and lovely spots they can find.  Their habitations are surrounded with fences, inside which they cultivate the taro, and sweet potatoes, the banana, the bread-fruit, the vi-apple, groves of orange and cocoa-nut trees, and at times the sugar-cane.  Their habitations are of an oval shape, often fifty or sixty feet long, and twenty wide.  They are formed of bamboos, planted about an inch apart in the ground.  At the top of each wall thus formed, a piece of the hibiscus, a strong and light wood, is lashed with plaited rope.  From the top of the four walls the rafters rise and meet in a ridge, those from the ends sloping like those from the sides.  The rafters, which touch each other, are covered with small mats of the pandanus leaf, which, closely fitted together and lapping over each other, forms a durable roof, impervious to the rain.  The earth, beaten hard, forms the floor.  There are no regular partitions, but mats serve the purpose when required.  Their bedsteads are made of a framework of cane raised two feet from the ground, and covered with mats, the most luxurious using pillows stuffed with aromatic herbs.  They have neither tables nor chairs.  Their style of cooking is very simple: they bake their food in extemporised ovens filled with hot stones.  Since my return I have often intended to propose having a picnic, and to cook all our food in Tahitian fashion.  The dress of the people is undergoing a rapid and considerable change.  Formerly a native cloak and kilt was all that was thought necessary; now every sort of European clothing is in vogue.  We had an example of this at a feast our English friend gave to a number of chiefs and their relations.  Some of the gentlemen had on uniform coats, with nankeen trousers too short for them, and coloured slippers.  Others had top-boots, red shirts, black breeches, sailors' round jackets, and cocked hats.  Some had high shoes and buckles, and others had no shoes at all; but all had shirts and trousers, or breeches.  Some, indeed, were in complete costume: shoes, stockings, trousers, waistcoat, coat, shirt, with a huge neck-tie--every garment of a different colour, and often too large or too small--while a little straw hat was worn on the top of the head.  Indeed, it was very evident that their clothes had been collected from all parts of the world, many garments probably having passed a probation in pawnbrokers' shops, or in those of old clothes-men in London or Liverpool.  I was particularly struck by the total want of perception of congruity as to dress exhibited both by men and women after they had abandoned their native costume, which, if somewhat scanty, was graceful and adapted to the climate.  The women we saw were dressed in straw bonnets of huge proportions and ugly shape, and loose gowns of gay colours reaching from the throat to the ankles, with silk handkerchiefs tied round their necks.  A few wore wreaths of flowers round their heads, which formed a picturesque part of their ancient costume.  The people are said to be very honest, and always seemed in good-humour, happy and cheerful, while we never saw them quarrelling or disputing with each other, far less coming to blows.  Many of them are scrupulous in their attendance on religious worship; the Sabbath is strictly kept by all, not even a boat being launched, while those who are seen abroad are decently clothed, going to or coming from church.  What change French civilisation may have worked in this state of things it is painful to reflect.  We visited several schools, and except that their skins were darker, the appearance of the children differed little from that of the same class in any part of Europe, while they appeared in no way wanting in intelligence.  In fact, from all we saw and heard, we came to the conclusion that the inhabitants of the islands of Polynesia are generally as capable of a high state of education and civilisation as the people of any other race, while their minds are peculiarly susceptible of religious instruction.  Our fellow-voyagers afforded us a good example of this.  We much regretted that we could not converse familiarly with them.  Our missionary friend had especially won our regard and esteem.