However, we crossed in safety, and spent a very pleasant day at Santiago, seeing all the sights of that city, though Jerry and I agreed that we would rather have been in the mountains shooting guanacoes or hunting pumas,--so I daresay would old Surley.  We got back in good time to Valparaiso.  When dining at the hotel, we met an Englishman who had travelled over all parts of South America, and had made an infinite number of sketches, which he did in the most rapid way.  He made me a present of several, which he drew at the hotel; among them was the Frontispiece to this volume.  He gave us the following information at the same time.  He told us that apes' flesh was very nice for eating--a fact some of our party were inclined to doubt.  He laughed at our scruples, and assured us that he had frequently dined off apes.  The Indians on the Amazon go out regularly to hunt them, and have a very successful mode of so doing.  Every hunter is provided with a hollow cane, called a sarbacan--I before described it in our trip up the Amazon.  It is about twelve feet in length; and a quiver containing a dozen little pieces of very hard wood, sharp at one end, and fitted with a bit of cotton-wadding at the other.  Concealed by the luxuriant foliage of the forest, the Indian, resting his sarbacan on the branch of a tree, waits the near approach of his prey; then blowing out one of the little polished arrows from the tube with his mouth, he invariably strikes the ape, and brings him to the ground.  What ensures the success of this mode of hunting is, that it is carried on without the slightest noise, and a whole troop of apes may be killed without their discovering whence the death-dealing darts proceed.  When we were on the Amazon we did not know that the poor monkeys were killed in this way.  I forgot to mention before the beautiful regularity of the land and sea-breezes which we experienced at this place.  It was the dry season of the year, and the air was wonderfully bright and clear.  The atmosphere being in a state of equilibrium (so the doctor told us), was ready to obey even the slightest impulse, and to rush towards any spot where rarefaction was taking place.  Thus, at about ten in the morning, as the rays of the sun gain power and shed their influence over the earth, the air from the sea begins to move towards it.  As rarefaction increases, so does the strength of the wind, till by three or four in the afternoon it rushes in with great force, creating a considerable sea, and if a vessel is not well moored, driving her before it.  Captain Frankland knew what to expect, and was therefore prepared for the emergency.