Still further west, we came off the white and lofty cliff known as Beer Head.  Near to it is Beer, a fishing-village possessing "an ancient and fish-like smell."  The inhabitants are primitive in their habits, and were at one time as daring smugglers as any on the coast.  As the wind fell we dropped anchor, and pulled on shore, to visit a curious cavern, partly natural and partly a stone quarry.  We carried with us all the lanterns we could muster from both vessels.  We could not at first see the mouth, owing to a cloud produced by the different temperature of the outer air and that from within.  The entrance is under a rocky archway, over which hung in rich festoons wreaths of green foliage.  For some distance we had to grope our way through a narrow low passage, with the water dripping down on our heads.  At last we found ourselves in a huge cavern supported by substantial pillars.  In the more ancient part, from which stone was quarried by picks, the sides and roof were perfectly smooth.  In one place there was a dome, with four well-formed arches, not unlike the interior of a cathedral crypt.  From hence we were told the stone was hewn for the building of Exeter Cathedral.  The modern portions of the cavern have been excavated by gunpowder, which has of course torn off huge masses without any regard to symmetry.