But true swell comes so rarely to this godforsaken coast that it 's a crime to miss days like this .
Left a lot of projects unfinished on my desk and I did n't really feel like surfing ( ? ! ) .
True swell comes so rarely to this godforsaken coast that it 's a crime to miss days like this .
Left a lot of projects unfinished on my desk and I did n't really feel like surfing ( ? ! ) .