As a result , I got drafted .
I left home at age 17 and moved to Southern California to try to take up surfing as a vocation , but this was in 1964 , and there was this nasty little thing called the Vietnam War .
I got drafted .
I left home at age 17 and moved to Southern California to try to take up surfing as a vocation , but this was in 1964 , and there was this nasty little thing called the Vietnam War .