Improving my Brikka moka pot use I have a Brikka and I'm trying to improve the coffee I make. 
I have seen this post, but am using an electric stove instead of a gas range. 

Q1: Does anyone use one with an electric element as opposed to gas? What kind of heat setting do you use for it?  What I tried today was, after boiling the water initially, setting the element at about 40% of maximum, and once I saw the first bit of coffee appearing in the upper chamber, reduced to it to about 15%.

Q2: if I end up with a violent frothing action (which I understand makes the coffee more bitter, and is to be avoided) does that mean I have done something wrong?
I have used a regular old Moka Express (the simpler version without the "crema" thingie) for years, and always on an electric stove. But the same should apply for your Brikka.

1. An electric stove is fine.
If you are starting with boiling water, go medium-to-low, reduce heat to a minimum once the coffee starts to rise/appear - or even turn it off, see 2. below. If you are starting with cold water (I can't be fiddling with a hot metal vessel after a short night and without sufficient caffeine in my system - see here and here),initially go full-speed to minimize the not-so-hot water trickling through phase, then proceed as described above.

2. Violent frothing may be a sign of different things.
My first suspicion would be you missing the sweet spot of turning the heat down in time - or too much residual heat in your stove top. Note that electric plates are a lot slower to react that gas, where you can instantly cut the heat. Learn to "play" your specific stove, and as an emergency measure, simply lift the Brikka off the stove.
A second issue could be the grind. While a Moka needs a finer grind than drip, a true espresso grind is too fine (and a common beginner's mistake when making "stovetop espresso"). In the best case, a too-fine grind will just be over-extracted and give you a lot of dregs in the cup. But the fine grid will also compact more, so that your machine will be working at a higher-than intended pressure. It may be enough to trigger the valve, but it may also be ever so slightly below the critical value, still giving you a rather forceful "volcanic action" (as I observed in the context of this question).