How can I modify an existing deck for a wide-open environment?

I think perhaps you are asking the wrong question.

When I was going to an event for casual play, I'd normally bring more than one deck and I'd either ask for an opponent for a specific format or else ask the other person what format and break out the appropriate deck.  Obviously, I didn't carry a deck for every conceivable format, but if I brought my current standard deck, and an extended deck, and a "completely-casual-deck to play against beginners" I'd be able to find something "close enough".

If you really want just one deck to take to take to a gathering, then I would make a fast, solid aggro deck with some removal but no specific hosers (except just maybe in sideboard).  I would go with aggro over control or combo for a couple of reasons:

It always exists in about the same form in most formats, where control really needs to be tuned to the metagame to work right, so it can be broadly competitive.
You are describing a fairly casual environment of pick-up games.  Of course any competitive player would be happy to face combo or control, but it frustrates and surprises a lot of casual/new players.  So, for the sake of everyone having fun, I tend to run aggro in pick-up games and save combo/control for more competitive environments.

When building this deck to take to such an open environment, I would avoid anything that was designed as an answer to a specific threat (one with nothing for instance saw tournament play due to the metagame at the time, but it was an answer to one specific threat type).  I would also look more than normal at cards that could have multiple purposes (green has often had cards that would act as a creature, or kill an artifact).  Of course, such versatility often comes at a cost in terms of mana, but in that type of environment (might face anything, but generally on the casual side) that might be a fair trade off.

Finally, you can blunt a lot of the "random-deck" problems by playing multiplayer.  Even if you don't have an answer to a major threat, another player at the table probably does.


There are already some games that use this type of deck; such as Tichu. A Tichu deck contains 4 suits in 4 different colors (although they are not the same traditional 4 suits).

For most games out there; this idea would make the games slightly easier to play; because it would be easier to distinguish a Spade from a Club, and a Heart from a Diamond. Most traditional trick-taking or melding games would benefit from this.

However, there are a few games where not only suit, but color, also matters:

Canasta - Red 3s have separate rules from black 3s. It doesn't matter whether a 3 is a Spade or a Club, but it does matter if it's black. To play Canasta with your custom deck; you would have to remember that both a Club and a Spade have one rule, while a Heart and a Diamond have another rule.

Klondike Solitaire - Red cards can be moved onto black cards and vice-versa. So again, this would be more difficulty to play with your custom deck; as you would have to look for cards of 2 different specific suits rather than just look for cards of a specific color.


How to determine the edition of The Settlers of Catan?

There are differences in cover art and publisher. And there are counting different languages, over 50 different editions of the base game...

The most common US versions are US third and US fourth editions by Mayfair... other countries' edition counts may vary, plus the US editions have made the rounds...

The current, US 4th Mayfair edition shows a scene with several colonists on a road along a wheat field, with a large sun in the background. The water is a puzzle frame.

The third is basically off-white front, with red sides, with a crest in the upper left, and an inset of some individuals negotiating in the lower right. The water is hexagonal tiles.

Some people's 3rd edition copies will have a 4th edition frame, rulebook, and port markers; these were provided in an "Adaptation Kit."

Both 3rd and 4th edition have 4 colors of pieces, and specific colors seem to have varied slightly, with red, blue, white and either yellow or orange; black and neutral wood were in the 5-6 player expansion.

The first and second are brown boxes with a sun in the upper left. The 2nd edition was essentially the same as the first, save for extra rules and different colors, and 1st edition may have been reprinted at the same time as second. 1st ed colors are red, blue, green, and natural wood; 2nd are black, purple, yellow, and orange, and the box might be stickered as 2nd edition. Note that some people will have combined a 1st edition and second edition for play with up to 8 players.

Mayfair used the same illustration for the Travel Edition as on 3rd, but the front is basically red. The pieces are much smaller, have large stubs, and the hexes have circular voids for the fixed numbers in the plastic board. The art and rules are pretty much the same as third, but all components are smaller.

There also was a Simply Fun version, retitled "Simply Catan", which shows a city against a large sun, and water in the front. It's a frame version, and has 3d plastic road, settlement and city pieces in red, orange, white and blue, with the board comprised of strips, rather than separate hexes. Further, the frame includes many rules elements.

And that's not counting the other games: The Card Game, the Dice Game, etc.

BGG links:

http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/20630/mayfair-games-first-edition
http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/42682/mayfair-second-english-edition-with-alternate-colo
http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/24859/mayfair-games-third-edition
http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/23765/mayfair-games-fourth-edition
http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24511/simply-catan
http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/17419/catan-3d-collectors-edition
http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3972/the-settlers-of-catan-travel-edition


How do I determine a character's probability to escape from combat in DungeonQuest (third edition)?

The decks here are small enough that we can explicitly list out all the possibilities:

your draw, opponent's draw
1, 2
1, 3
1, 4
1, 6
2, 2 *
2, 3
2, 4
2, 6
3, 2 *
3, 3 *
3, 4
3, 6
4, 2 *
4, 3 *
4, 4 *
4, 6

I've put an * next to all combinations which result in you escaping. As you can see there are 6 of those out of 16 total. Since each pair of draws in the list is equally likely, your probability of escaping is just 6/16 (which is 3/8 or 37.5%).

If you're trying to do this kind of calculation in the middle of a game (i.e. quickly and in your head), you may want to solve it slightly differently. First of all, we can tell that there will be 16 pairs in the list without actually listing them out, just by multiplying the deck sizes (4*4). After that you only have to count the ways to escape, which you can do by seeing how many cards each of yours beats: your 1 doesn't beat any (0), your 2 wins against their 2 (1), and so on for your 3 (2), and your 4 (3), for 0+1+2+3=6 ways of escaping.


Gaining control of an opponent's hideaway land

Hideaway is defined in the rules as:

  702.74a Hideaway represents a static ability and a triggered ability. “Hideaway” means “This permanent enters the battlefield tapped” and
  “When this permanent enters the battlefield, look at the top four
  cards of your library. Exile one of them face down and put the rest on
  the bottom of your library in any order. The exiled card gains ‘Any
  player who has controlled the permanent that exiled this card may look
  at this card in the exile zone.’”

(Remember that the reminder text is only a condensed summary of the actual rules.  It rarely has all the nuances of the rules to handle weirder situations.)

Since the rules state "Any player who has controlled the permanent that exiled this card may look at this card in the exile zone", you can look at the exiled card.  There isn't a way you could start casting the card and not know about what is required to cast it.

Also, the last ability of Spinerock Knoll says you may cast the exiled card.  So as that ability resolves, you have the option of casting the card (or not).  If you can't pay all the costs to cast the spell at that time, you can't cast it and the ability from Spinerock Knoll still resolves (it just didn't do anything useful for you).


Is a player locked in to a poorly worded trade offer?

There are multiple issues with the way this played out.
First of all, trading 2 wood for 1 wood is not a legal trade, as outlined in the rulebook:

You may not trade like resources (e.g., 2 wool for 1 wool).

But aside from that, simply stating "I will take any (1) resource for (2) woods" is not actually making a trade, it is simply proposing a general offer. Once players respond to that offer, there can be negotiation and then eventually an actual trade is made.
In this case, Player B doesn't just "give him 1 wood", rather player B would say "ok, how about 1 wood?" at which point Player A can say "no, what else you got?"
It is important to distinguish between "proposing a trade" and "making a trade". I can say "I will give a sheep for a wood", but if the only player willing to do it is someone who has 9 points so I don't want to trade with them, I don't have to trade with them. I can always just say "sorry, not trading with you". Making statements about what sort of trade you want is not a binding agreement; the actual agreement comes when 2 different players say "ok" to a specific set of resources exchanging with other resources.


Was South's bidding really as "edgy" as an expert suggests?

Absolutely.

While the South hand has 11 HCP it should deduct one for the 4333 distribution. That's just a given. After that the spots are good but the Q is in the wrong suit - it will usually help the hand much more in Spades than in in Clubs. That's a wash so call it 10  Points even.

With this flat 10 and partner denying a 15-17 balanced hand or 4 spades with an upgrading distributional feature in the red suite, I am happy to pass 2S. To push twice more in hopes of finding partner with a magic 14 count is going to end up badly much more often than it will end well.


Why does Rhizome Lurcher see itself in the graveyard as it enters the battlefield? (GRN spoilers)

Rhizome Lurcher's ability is a replacement effect, specifically the kind described in 614.1d:

  Continuous effects that read “[This permanent] enters the battlefield . . .” or “[Objects] enter the battlefield . . .” are replacement effects.

Replacement effects apply to an event before that event occurs. So replacement effects that modify a permanent entering the battlefield apply before it enters the battlefield. In Magic, objects can't be "between" zones or not in any zones, so in the situation in question, before the Rhizome Lurcher is on the battlefield, it is in the graveyard. So, it counts itself when counting creatures cards in the graveyard.


When is it worth adding nonbasic land or artifacts to your deck over basic land?

There are a variety of reasons that your would choose dual lands or basics or mana rocks, it largely depends on the specific deck. In general all dual lands (other than the originals like Tropical Island have some sort of downside compared to basics, usually entering the battlefield tapped (though sometimes with a way of getting around that limitation). Mana rocks again depend on the deck, but generally unless you are running a ramp deck, or at least have a specific thing you are ramping to you generally will not run them.

For reasons to run basics, obviously if you are just running a single color you are going to want all or mostly basics. If you are running cards like Grim Lavamancer  that care about cards in your graveyard you might run fetches along side them, and you could always choose to run utility lands like Ghost Quarter, but the only time in a mono-colored deck you would want to run any dual lands is if you have cards in your sideboard that are off color and you don't want to have too many lands in the sideboard too.

Another reason to run basics over duals is if you are running an aggro deck and all or most of the dual lands in the format enter the battlefield tapped. Exactly how many lands that enter tapped you are willing to run depends on a combination of the color requirements of your deck and the speed of the format. For example with Theros-Khans standard you might decide that with a Red/White aggro deck the only land that enter tapped that you can run is Temple of Triumph and adding Wind-Scarred Crag would slow the deck down too much.

The final main reason that you would choose to run basics is if there are cards that care about basic lands (or basic land types assuming neither original duals nor shock lands are available). For example currently with Khans of Tarkir there are fetch lands that get a land with one of two different basic land types, since there are no lands with basic land types other than basic lands in the format at the moment you would need to run some number of basic lands for the fetches to find. Other things that might care about basic land types are cards like Sunblade Elf and cards with the Domain mechanic.

Now for reasons to run dual lands, the most obvious reason is that you are running multiple colors and you need to have all of your colors consistently. For example if you are running Titanic Ultimatum and want to consistently cast it on turn 7 or 8 you are going to need to run a lot of dual lands to make sure you have all of the colors you need, but if your turn 7 play is instead Devout Invocation since it is much easier to cast color wise with only a single {W} in the cost you can get away with fewer duals.

Another reason to use duals is because they have some other ability in addition to making mana that you want, for example in Theros-Khans Standard there are the lands that Scry 1 when they enter, and the lands that gain you 1 life when they enter, if either of these are abilities your deck needs you might choose to run more of them than you would basics.

For mana rocks you generally only want to run them if there is something specific that you want to ramp into, and you have a time frame that you want to ramp into it by. For example in Zendikar-Scars Standard there was a deck that wanted to ramp into Primeval Titan by turn 4, to do this they need to ramp twice by turn 3 to help make this more consistent they ran Sphere of the Suns as some artifact ramp. In general though unless you have something specific to ramp into though playing mana rocks is taking time and mana away from playing spells that will actually advance your game plan and help you win.

For the question of whether to run duals or mana rocks in addition to or in place of basic lands it again depends slightly. For lands in your average deck you probably want 22-24 (possibly more or less depending on the specific deck, but that is a good place to start). From that starting place you would replace basics with dual lands to a point, there are very few decks that want to run no basics, just because having all of your lands entering the battlefield tapped means you are essentially playing the game a full turn behind your opponent. For artifacts you generally want to run them in addition to the lands you are running, this is because you are probably running a ramp deck and you want to make sure you hit everyone of you land drops in addition to the ramp you are playing, and if you don't hit your land drops your ramp is actually just keeping you where you should be if you had played a land instead of getting you ahead.


If a player is forced to discard a card in which another card has a dependency, do they lose both cards?

No, they only lose the first card.

There are no dependencies, only requirements that must be met in order to play the second card.

On Page 16 of the rules it states:

  The Theme Sets introduce cards that have special requirements that must be met before you can play them.  The requirements may vary significantly - such as requiring the trade advantage or requiring that another building must already be in your principality.

Once the card is played and the requirement is satisfied, the requirement has no further effect on play.


Will combat damage trigger fight abilities?

No, combat damage does not count as fighting, and will not trigger an ability that says "whenever a creature you control fights."

"Fight" is defined in the official rules. The text of it doesn't matter; all that matters is that it's a defined thing, and that it doesn't tie itself to combat in any way, so only something that actually says "fight" is a "fight".

Similarly, the entire combat procedure is spelled out in the rules. Nowhere in it does it mention "fight", so it definitely does not have any interaction with fight. (In fact, the only section of the rules that mentions fight is the section defining it, plus the summary of that definition in the glossary.)


What amount of color overlap does intimidate require?

The colors don't need to be exactly the same. The creatures just have to overlap by at least one color.

The intimidate reminder text tells us:

  Intimidate (This creature can’t be blocked except by artifact creatures and/or creatures that share a color with it.)

A green creature with intimidate can be blocked by any creature that is at least green, including a blue-green creature, or even just a mono-green creature, because it will share a color with them.

Likewise a blue-green creature with intimidate can be blocked by any creature that is at least green or blue: the blocker could be mono-blue, or green-red, etc. This means a five-color card like Progenitus is never intimidated by any colored creature with intimidate.

Naturally also artifact creatures can always block any creature with intimidate, regardless of their colors or lack thereof.


What are the best ways to manage challenges to the storyteller?

For my money the simple thumbsup system works with my group. You're welcome to tell the story and if someone contradicts or uses a card for a nonessential element you call an audible and stick out your hand thumbs down. You have about five seconds and then everyone else joins in thumbs up or thumbs down. Majority rules.

The rest of the time if the story teller is rambling you can just stick out your hand thumbs down and as they go if more people join your thumbs down and it reaches majority then you lose and the story passes on.


Is a monster taking damage and a monster having its toughness reduced the same thing?

Reducing toughness is very different from dealing damage.
Toughness tells you how much damage can a monster withstand. From the Reference Guide, "Monster" (page 8)

When a Monster has lost Health equal to or greater than its
toughness, it is defeated.

Toughness almost never changes. Several monsters (mainly epic ones) have variable toughness. Barring that, advancing the mystery is the only effect that can reduce a monster toughness.
An official response from FFG (Nikki Valens) on this matter:

A Monster’s toughness is the printed value in the top-right corner on the token’s back (surrounded by green tentacles). A Monster’s toughness is unaffected by the amount of Health the Monster has lost.
In the case of advancing a Mystery that includes an Epic Monster, the Epic Monster’s toughness is reduced by a number equal to the number of Health tokens placed on the Mystery card. This effect specifically reduces the Epic Monster’s toughness; it does not cause the Epic Monster to lose Health. In this way, advancing the Mystery can bypass any restrictions the Mystery might have for harming the Epic Monster.


Are 'tiles' that are part of the coastline counted when scoring?

Again, US rules to the rescue. My Dutch rules do not include these examples, but in the scoring examples in the rules of the US version, one of the examples shows a trail (this would be a road in regular Carcassonne) that consists of two tiles and two tile-sized sections of the starting board. The score is calculated using all four tiles.


Is this play involving Red Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon & Lightpulsar Dragon valid?

This rulings page for Lightpulsar Dragon says:

  If "Lightpulsar Dragon" and "Red-Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon" are
  destroyed on the field simultaneously by the effect of "Dark Hole",
  that "Red-Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon" can be Special Summoned from the
  Graveyard by the effect of "Lightpulsar Dragon".[6]

And that is allegedly a ruling from an official Konami FAQ, though the link to it was broken.

If REDMD and Lightpulsar Dragon are fine to combo in this way then I don't really see the problem with your OTK.  It's not like Lightpulsar Dragon isn't known for featuring in lots of OTK decks... anyone can just google it to see that!


Does attacking creature take damage when playing instant "Ride Down" before combat damage but after blockers declared

Once blockers are declared, any player can then play instants or effects before any damage is applied.

In your particular case, no, your creature does not take damage.  It would only take damage if the blocking creature was still in play, and Ride Down destroys it.

You are incorrect on the other portion however.  The Trample keyword lets any damage above and beyond what's applied to the blocker be applied to the player.  Since there is no longer a blocker to apply damage to, all attacking damage is applied to the player you attacked.  Your creature would still be considered "blocked" for the purposes of other cards, but all damage would get through.


Untapping a Creature that has "does not untap during its controller's untap step"

Can it be untaped with Initiate's Companion?

Yes. Ice Over only prevents the enchanted permanent from untapping during its controller's untap step. Players don't get priority during the Untap step, so this only prevents the normal untapping of permanents at the start of your turn. It doesn't prevent the permanent from being untapped at any other time (e.g. by Twiddle or Initiate's Companion).

If Ice Over's second ability was "Enchanted permanent can't be untapped", it would be a different story. I can't find such a card.

  If it can untap, does Ice Over go away?

No. Ice Over can legally enchant untapped creatures.

In contrast, Entangling Vines has "Enchant tapped creature", so untapping the creature it enchants would cause it to fall off.[CR 303.4c]

  303.4c If an Aura is enchanting an illegal object or player as defined by its enchant ability and other applicable effects, the object it was attached to no longer exists, or the player it was attached to has left the game, the Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)


Can you change your mind about how a multi-target burn spell assigns damage after casting it?

Nope.

The Gatherer rulings for Fight with Fire have this to say (emphasis mine):

  You choose how many targets Fight with Fire has and how the damage is divided as you put the spell onto the stack. Each target must receive at least 1 damage if Fight with Fire is kicked.

Fight with Fire is already on the stack when you respond with Moment of Triumph, so it is too late to make any changes to the way damage is divided.


Does an equipped creature become an artifact creature?

No, an artifact creature is specifically a creature that has "artifact" written in its type line. See Platinum Emperion for an example; it specifically says "artifact creature". A creature could also become an artifact creature through an effect that says it changes the type, such as Mycosynth Lattice. But attaching an equipment to a creature will not affect the creature's types unless that equipment specifically says something like "equipped creature is an artifact in addition to its other types" such as Silverskin Armor.


Trostani Discordant vs. In Bolas's Clutches

You regain control of the Trostani Discordant. All control change effects are continuous effects, and the effect created by Trostani's triggered ability is newer than the effect created by In Bolas's Clutches, so it "wins" and control returns to you.
The continuous effects rules section has the following rules:

611.1. A continuous effect modifies characteristics of objects, modifies control of objects, or affects players or the rules of the game, for a fixed or indefinite period.

611.2. A continuous effect may be generated by the resolution of a spell or ability.

611.3. A continuous effect may be generated by the static ability of an object.

The interaction of continuous effects rules section describes how to apply multiple effects like this. Specifically, rule 613.6 and its relevant subrules say this:

613.6 Within a layer or sublayer, determining which order effects are applied in is usually done using a timestamp system. An effect with an earlier timestamp is applied before an effect with a later timestamp.

613.6a A continuous effect generated by a static ability has the same timestamp as the object the static ability is on, or the timestamp of the effect that created the ability, whichever is later.

613.6b A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability receives a timestamp at the time it’s created.

In Bolas's Clutches has a static ability, so its effect has a timestamp from when it entered the battlefield. Trostani's ability creates a new continuous effect when it resolves, so that's the timestamp that effect has. After In Bolas's Clutches is on the battlefield, the next time Trostani's ability resolves, it has a newer timestamp, so it applies last and the overall effect is that you control Trostani.


How does Zndrsplt work with Krark's Thumb?

Krark's Thumb creates a replacement effect for flipping a coin, saying "flip two coins and ignore one. (then determine whether you won, if required)" parenthetical mine

Note that this is only part of flipping as coin as per:

  705.1. An effect that instructs a player to flip a coin may care whether that player wins or loses the flip. To flip a coin for such an effect, the player flips the coin and calls “heads” or “tails.” If the call matches the result, the player wins the flip. Otherwise, the player loses the flip. Only the player who flips the coin wins or loses the flip; no other players are involved.

From this we can determine that Krark's Thumb does not mean you instead attempt to win 2 different coin flips and pick one result to use, you instead flip two coins, call heads or tails, then ignore one of the coins before determining the result. This means you still have only one coin flip you are winning or losing, despite flipping two coins to determine it.


Does Hellkite Tyrant in combination with Mycosynth Lattice steal lands?

Yes, as you stated correctly, lands are permanents:

110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield.
...
110.4. There are five permanent types: artifact, creature, enchantment, land, and planeswalker.

Enemy Lands are Artifact [Basic] Lands now due to Mycosynth Lattice, and nothing stops you from getting control of them if you deal combat damage with Hellkite Tyrant.


Rivals for Catan AoE Islands of Scholars Clarification

The game makes a fairly clear distinction between "draw" and "choose". This page has the rules in pdf form: http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules

In the rules for the base game, on page 10, under the exchanging a card from your hand portion, you have two options (emphasis added):

  Take a random card. Draw the top card from a draw stack of your choice.

OR

  Select a specific card. Pay any 2 resources of your choice. Choose a draw stack and look at all of its cards. Then take 1 card of your choice from that stack.

The same document describes Game Rules for the Theme Games (starting page 14). Preparation step 4 (page 15) says (again, emphasis added):

  Choosing the Starting Cards. You don't draw your starting cards randomly from a stack like you've done in the Introductory Game. Instead, beginning with the starting player, each player chooses a Basic Set draw stack and selects 3 cards for a starting hand. You may not change the order of the cards in the draw stack.

These are about choosing draw stacks, not cards specifically, but the language appears to be consistent in the expansion. For instance, the Grove of Fraternity says "You may draw 3 cards from any 1 or more draw stacks..." whereas Grove of Freedom says "Choose 1 card from a draw stack..." We've always interpreted "choose" to mean pick a stack, look through it, and take card(s) of your choice.


Can sheep farmer perform multiple exchanges at once?

The card doesn't say you can do multiple conversions at the same time, so they have to be sequential.

However, in other situations, it's established that you don't have to have room for animals if you're going to immediately use them for something else. For instance, if you receive animals from an action space, you can immediately afterwards cook them, without having to find room for them in between.

I would argue that the Sheep Farmer works the same way. In this case, you can use it twice in succession, without having to take animal storage limits in account.

I'll add a ruling to this effect to the next edition of the Unofficial Agricola Compendium, which many players consider to be almost authoritative.


How do you identify (and resolve) "critical path" issues in Ticket to Ride?

LA has fewer routes, yes, but all of them can still be used to get to NY with only a few "extra" wagons needed. So, initially it seems to be a bottleneck, but losing e.g., LA to Phoenix is not a game-ender for you.

You are on the right track, though, in identifying the endpoints which have the fewest number of routes available to them. Vancouver, for instance, only has 3 routes available (2 if playing with 2 or 3 players), so getting any route into Vancouver would be a priority if your destinations went there, even if it is not your preferred route. You can't complete your ticket if you can't get to both endpoints, so getting into those endpoints may be the highest priority. If, however, you have Denver to Chicago, both of which have several routes in, getting into the endpoints early is less important as you can more easily adapt to the cards you are dealt.

As for adjacent tickets, getting from NY to Montreal is a priority, of course, but not necessarily via the 3-blue route. You can go through Boston (which will actually get you a longer train, but take 2 turns), or you may even go through Toronto or SSM - it all depends on your other tickets and at what point in the game you drew the 2 adjacent tickets. That said, if I have a ticket to (or near) Atlanta, I'll almost always grab Nashville-Atlanta as one of my first moves. Same with Houston-NOLA. They're low cost and can easily connect some otherwise-disparate routes.

All of this is dependent on the train cards you draw, of course. Your initial plan may be to go LA-Phoenix-Denver-and on to NY, but if you're getting a lot of black and yellow cards but no white cards, you may instead go LA-El Paso-OKC-and on to NY. If you're drawing a lot of blue cards, then the NY-Montreal route is a priority; if you're drawing a lof of red and yellow cards, then it's less of a priority and NY-Boston is.


Can you place two Buddha statues on the same turn?

Yes, you can do this, even if you're not the blue monk (if, for example, you picked up the statues on different turns). From the rulebook, pages 6-7:

  It may be possible to place two Buddha’s in the same turn, when the Taoist stands on a corner tile and the two corresponding ghost spaces are free.


Apostrophes, hyphens, or other tile-less characters in Bananagrams

Bananagrams has a pretty basic set of rules, compared to other games: it seems that the only guidance on this subject is "a legal word is one found in a dictionary (the volume should be agreed upon in advance)".

Obviously all your examples can be found in many reasonably good dictionaries.  However, I (and most other diehard Scrabble players I'm sure) would be extremely un-keen to allow them.  Essentially - all of those examples are not actually words, but multiple words, albeit abridged or conjoined in some way.  Additionally, all of them would look really weird played in a game of Bananagrams or Scrabble with their punctuation marks missing; to the extent where you'd have to wonder if they were the same words at all.  "Manatarms", "tophat", "uboat"?  They don't look right for a reason.  Now maybe if a hyphen tile existed in the game...

I do think, though, that this is exactly the type of game where house rules on acceptability are perfectly reasonable, and indeed a good thing.  If you and the people you play with think it's more annoying to have to rule out hyphenated, abbreviated and capitalised real words than it is just to allow them, then I can't see any possible reason not to agree amongst yourselves that they're fine.


Can 'Eyes in the Dark' be played on an Investigator with a Torch?

The investigator cannot be targeted by Eyes in the Dark.

The ruling you are looking for is on page 15 of the rules:

  Some Exploration cards (such as the “Lantern”) allow
  investigators to ignore these effects. When ignoring these effects,
  an investigator also cannot be targeted by cards that require them
  to be in a room with a darkness token.


Do MTG Core sets contain new (never before seen) cards? How does this compare with expansion sets?

Core sets do contain new cards, but at a lower ratio than typical expansions. This article indicates that about half (112/249) the cards in Magic 2014 were new, while the rest were reprints. I would guess that the ratio will be about the same for Magic 2015.

By comparison, in Theros, out of 249 cards, there were 12 reprints, and 5 functional reprints (nearly identical functionality, but a different card name).


Looking for an Online Card Shuffler and Drawer

The game Tabletop Simulator has many games on the workshop, including 7 Wonders.

Tabletop Simulator (TTS) is exactly what the name implies: it simulates a tabletop. You can play chess, checkers, poker, or any game really since the game has extensive support to import own games. Even more, there is a whole scripting environment to automate actions/mechanics in games.

One of the great features TTS has is that you can shuffle cards and deal to all players. You can simulate this for your forum group, but if you guys want to take it real time you can all acquire TTS and play together. Online.

This is why TTS is so popular. It allows players that normally don't have that much time to come together play awesome games. It is also used a lot for playtesting custom games, so if you're into that, you might want to check it out as well.


Are copied Flashback cards cast from the graveyard?

No.

A copy of a spell isn't cast. Therefore, the "if Increasing Devotion was cast from a graveyard" clause won't trigger.

Rules reference:

  706.10. To copy a spell or activated ability means to put a copy of it onto the stack; a copy of a spell isn't cast and a copy of an activated ability isn't activated. A copy of a spell or ability copies both the characteristics of the spell or ability and all decisions made for it, including modes, targets, the value of X, and additional or alternative costs. (See rule 601, "Casting Spells.") Choices that are normally made on resolution are not copied. If an effect of the copy refers to objects used to pay its costs, it uses the objects used to pay the costs of the original spell or ability. A copy of a spell is owned by the player under whose control it was put on the stack. A copy of a spell or ability is controlled by the player under whose control it was put on the stack. A copy of a spell is itself a spell, even though it has no spell card associated with it. A copy of an ability is itself an ability.


Can I move the fairie on a bonus turn due to the builder?

A player may move the fairy instead of placing a follower.

A player can move the fairy on the placement of the first tile, the second tile, or both.

A player can only score the one point when the turn begins.  The "double turn" is a continuation of the turn, not the beginning of a new turn.  Therefore a player cannot move the fairy on the first tile and then score the one point.


Should I buy 2 core sets of Star Wars: the card game LCG right from the start?

When I bought into the game, I only purchased one of the Core Set (and the first Force Pack The Desolation of Hoth, but that is an aside...). I just wanted to try a new game. A few of the guys behind the counter at the hobby store mentioned more than one Core Set, but I just wanted a new game. I wasn't going to enter any major tournaments to start with.

The great thing about the Core Set is you get a lot of cards right away, and you get playable decks. Four of them to be exact (Rebel, Jedi, Sith, and Imperial). You get a taste of the other two factions (Smugglers and Spies, and Scum and Villainy), but those are really fleshed out with decks in the Edge of Darkness set (and yes, I eventually bought that too).

I generally have recommended to anyone getting into the game to start with those. Try it. See how you like it. Learn how it plays and how to build decks.

I have also bought the Force Packs as they have come out. Unlike the Core Set and the Deluxe Expansions, the Force Packs come with two of every objective set (except for the ones labeled "only one in a deck"). I have thought about purchasing an additional Core Set and an additional Edge of Darkness set to have doubles of certain cards. But I still haven't yet. Part of it is my budget. The other part is I purely play for fun with my wife and with my friends. I dont' play in cut throat tournaments. Now in my personal opinion, I think as more cards are released, the less likely it is that you have to have two of every big set. More releases, means more cards to choose from, which means more variation in player deck constructions. So though it may once have been more important to have two of sets (especially when that was all there was), I think that is now lessened.

Again, a lot of that is my opinion and personal experience, but that is what I would pitch to any new player.


Scoring with "Triumphal Arch" and only one Action card in the deck

Most importantly, have fun playing with your son!

For your question, in case there is no second most common Action card in a player's deck, that number would be 0. Or maybe it's non-existent, but you certainly don't count the most common one (that's kind of the strategic point of the card). So your son should have gotten 0 VP from Triumphal Arch in that game.

Another way to think about this conceceptually is that at the end of the game, you write down how many copies you have of each Action card. You then omit then names of the Action cards (so you only have the numbers left), then order those numbers, starting with the highest. Whatever number is in the second spot after the ordering is the number you multiply with 3 to get your VP from Triumphal Arc.

The German translation is wrong in this case. I was confused as well first (not having seen the English text before), thinking you could increase the VP by deliberately producing a tie (say 4x most common Action card, 4x second most common Action).


What happens when a creature gains the Riot keyword ability twice?

You can make any of those combinations of those two choices.

Riot is an ability that creates a replacement effect that modifies how a creature enters the battlefield. As the creature enters the battlefield, you apply each instance of Riot and make your choice of haste or a +1/+1 counter. Those choices are independent, and there is nothing wrong with a creature having two +1/+1 counters or two instances of haste.

A ruling on the card Rhythm of the Wild confirms this:

  If a creature enters the battlefield with two instances of riot, you may choose to have it get two +1/+1 counters, one +1/+1 counter and haste, or two instances of haste. Multiple instances of haste on the same creature are redundant, but we’re not going to tell the Gruul how to live their lives.

To clarify the last sentence, haste does not work any differently if you have more than one instance of it, and rule 112.10b says "Effects that remove an ability remove all instances of it." So, if you choose to give the creature haste twice, it's no different than giving it haste once.


Does "return" from graveyard to Zone X require a card to have been in Zone X?

When an ability says to "return" a card from one zone to another, the card does not need to have ever been in the zone it is "returning" to. "Return" is just the word they use on Magic cards to describe moving between certain zones (graveyard to battlefield or hand, battlefield to hand). Rule 400.7 says

  An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.

The card in the graveyard doesn't count as the same object as the card in your hand or the permanent on the battlefield, and it doesn't know what zone it used to be in.

The ability itself is just an activated ability that can be activated if the card is in your graveyard. Like any other activated ability, you can activate it any time you have priority.


Sundial of the Infinite and end of turn effects

No.  Sarkhan stops being a dragon when your turn ends.  It doesn't matter that you have ended your turn "early" using the Sundial - the turn still ends.

The reminder text on Sundial of the Infinite makes this clear:

  {1}, {T}: End the turn. Activate this ability only during your turn. (Exile all spells and abilities on the stack. Discard down to your maximum hand size. Damage wears off, and "this turn" and "until end of turn" effects end.)


Roll a 7, move robber AND play knight and move the robber again in the same turn

Yes, that is legal. You may play the knight at any time during your turn, including before rolling.


Is "Player" interchangeable with "Planeswalker"?

No, a planeswalker cannot be targeted by a card unless explicitly stated; however, they can be damaged by cards that target players.

This is called the Planeswalker redirection rule:

  306.7. If noncombat damage would be dealt to a player by a source controlled by an opponent, that opponent may have that source deal that damage to a planeswalker the first player controls instead. This is a redirection effect (see rule 614.9) and is subject to the normal rules for ordering replacement effects (see rule 616). The opponent chooses whether to redirect the damage as the redirection effect is applied.

So, anything that can damage a player has been pseudo-errata'd to be able to damage a planeswalker.


Can I Birthing Pod a token to get a creature with a CMC of 1?

You are correct in the general sense. The CMC of almost any tokens is 0. The only exception is tokens copying other cards (e.g. Cackling Counterpart).

The simplest reference is the Oracle rulings:

  6/1/2011  A token has a converted mana cost of 0, unless it is copying
  something else.

  6/1/2011  If a creature is copying something else, its converted mana
  cost is the converted mana cost of whatever it's copying.

So, why do most tokens have CMC 0?

  110.5b ... A token doesn't have any characteristics not defined by the spell or ability that created it.

  Example: Jade Mage has the ability "{2}{G}: Put a 1/1 green Saproling
  creature token onto the battlefield." The resultning token has no mana
  cost, supertype, expansion symbol, rules text, or abilities.

Normally, in Magic, the absence of a value isn't the same as "zero", but the definition of converted mana cost explicitly covers this situation:

  202.3a The converted mana cost of an object with no mana cost is 0.


In Elder Sign, can I use Jenny Barnes' ability to discard a spell when the mythos lingering effect bars investigators from using spells?

Yes.  Special effects that refer to discarding a card do not count as using the card.


In Caylus what is the point of placing a worker at the gate

You can use it several ways.

For example, if you want to push building the castle, but not in the first place, so you can make your opponent waste a little more resources to obtain a favor.

Also you can use it if you aren't sure how the probost will move, to make sure you will use your pawn.

Anyway, it's another way to put some preasure on your opponent, a way to have a little advantage.


Is your commander still a "commander" if it gets turned face down?

I just discovered that this exact circumstance is described in the rules. It will remain your commander.

  903.3. Each deck has a legendary creature card designated as its commander. This designation is not a characteristic of the object
  represented by the card; rather, it is an attribute of the card
  itself. The card retains this designation even when it changes zones.

  Example: A commander that’s been turned face down (due to Ixidron’s
  effect, for example) is still a commander. A commander that’s copying
  another card (due to Cytoshape’s effect, for example) is still a
  commander. A permanent that’s copying a commander (such as a Body
  Double, for example, copying a commander in a player’s graveyard) is
  not a commander.


Armory Automaton and Dowsing Dagger/Sword of the Animist

The term 'you' in an object's text always refers to that object's controller. Since your opponent remains as the controller of the equipments Armory Automaton attaches to itself, your opponent will continue to receive their effects.

The ability that triggers off Dowsing Dagger and Sword of the Animist respectively are on that equipment, not on the creature. Therefore, these abilities look for the controller of the equipment:

  109.5. The words “you” and “your” on an object refer to the object’s controller, its would-be controller (if a player is attempting to play, cast, or activate it), or its owner (if it has no controller). For a static ability, this is the current controller of the object it’s on. For an activated ability, this is the player who activated the ability. For a triggered ability, this is the controller of the object when the ability triggered, unless it’s a delayed triggered ability. To determine the controller of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d–f.

Note that there are equipments with different wordings that directly grant abilities to the equipped creature, such as Avarice Amulet. In that case, the granted ability would look at the Armory Automaton's controller, which would be you, even though the equipment itself is still controlled by your opponent.

Also note that if you attach e.g. Sword of the Animist as a result of the Automaton's "attack" trigger, the Sword's own "attack" trigger does not trigger in that same attack, because it had to be attached already.


Does Erebos lose indestructible when he becomes a creature?

Erebos remains indestructible, even as a creature.  Indestructible can apply to any permanents.


No, it is not guarded when added by Forest Grove.

According to the FAQs, on guarded:

  Surge, Doomed, and Guarded keywords should be resolved any time the card on which they occur is revealed from the encounter deck, including during setup.

The word revealed here is not mentioned in the actual rule book and is the cause for confusion. If we assume that Guarded is only triggered when a card is revealed then Athelas enters the staging area unguarded when added by Forest Grove.


Safari / ecology childs board game, collecting animal cards

I also used to have it. Spent a while looking for it but I'm 90% sure this is the one you're looking for.

https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/34016/explore


On Cardboard Republic I found a print and play version of an out of print unofficial expansion with action cards called One World Dominion.

Though it does not have the exact cards you describe, it seems to fit the bill.


How can I prevent my old card sleeves from sticking together?

I'd say if your deck is even relatively valuable, I'd upgrade from the penny-sleeve treatment. Penny sleeves are fine for protecting bulk rares and draft decks but the premium stuff is usually a tighter, tougher sleeve with opaque backs (which matters if you want to do any serious competitive play). I would avoid Dragonshield Gloss though because the backs get scratched pretty easily from the pointy corners while shuffling. The Mattes are fine and actually real good.

On the topic of cleaning and storage, here's a few suggestions. if you live in a very humid area, throwing one of those silica packets in your deck box can do quite a bit of work. To avoid collecting those weird little dirt clumps, using a play mat removes the dirty table element and will prolong their cleanliness for a bit (and plus they're nice to play on). If they do get dirty, rubbing alcohol will clean them up decently but after awhile, just replace them.


(Dominaria Spoilers) Can the new buy-a-box-promo card deal damage to Planeswalkers?

In early March, the release notes were accidentally published in Simplified Chinese, and Wizards of the Coast responded to that leak by publishing the release notes in all languages. In the release notes, the section about the planeswalker damage redirection rules change includes the following paragraph:

  Cards printed in the Dominaria set that deal damage to creatures and/or players but not to planeswalkers (such as the Planeswalker Deck card Chandra, Bold Pyromancer and the promotional card Firesong and Sunspeaker) require targets as written even though similar cards have received errata.

In addition, the release notes list the text of Firesong and Sunspeaker as follows:

  Firesong and Sunspeaker (Buy-a-Box Promotional Card)
  4RW
  Legendary Creature – Minotaur Cleric
  4/6
  Red instant and sorcery spells you control have lifelink.
  Whenever a white instant or sorcery spell causes you to gain life, Firesong and Sunspeaker deals 3 damage to target creature or player.

and includes this ruling

  The last ability of Firesong and Sunspeaker can't target a planeswalker.


How do the various expansions for Arkham Horror change the game? In what order would you recommend buying them?

I'll list the expansions in the order they were released, and give you some basic information and my experiences with them.

Curse of the Dark Pharaoh - The first expansion, a "small box" expansion that just adds new cards.  Out of all of the expansions, this one (currently) adds the smallest amount to the game.  It adds a few new mechanics in the Exhibit Items (which are a different class of Unique Items), being able to be locked out of a neighbourhood, and the benefits and detriments.  There's a revised version coming out during the summer of 2011, so if you were planning on getting it, you may want to consider waiting until then, as it will completely replace the old version.
Dunwich Horror - This was the first "big box" expansion that adds to the board.  It also adds 8 new investigators, 4 new Ancient Ones, and some new mechanics (Injuries and Madnesses, conditions, Vortex Spaces, Stalkers) and monsters and whatnot.  It's a pretty fun expansion, in my opinion.  The Dunwich Horror itself is a fun encounter, and the new location fits in well and adds to the board well.
The King in Yellow - Another "small box."  It adds Heralds (which are kind of like mini-Ancient Ones that add debuffs or other challenges to the game, you know, if things are going to easy for you) and persistent Magical Effects.  It also adds Blights, and has a cool Acts and Yellow Sign mechanics, which can really amp up the intensity of the game.
Kingsport Horror - A "big box" that adds to the game board again, and also comes with new investigators and Ancient Ones.  It also includes some new mechanics, like Rift gates (movable Gates), Epic Battles (which are cards that add a little more structure and excitement to battles with the Ancient Ones), and Guardians (the opposite of Heralds, these provide mechanics and buffs to help the investigators).  While I like the Guardians and the Epic Battles, Kingsport itself is incredibly annoying.  You pretty much have to have at least one investigator up there, running around doing the equivalent of busywork to keep Rifts from popping up keeping it under control.
The Black Goat of the Woods - A "small box" expansion that introduces Difficulty cards (things too easy last time?  Play at a harder difficulty as described by these cards), Corruption (effects triggered by other effects in the game, like monster movement), and Cult encounters.  You can even join the cult.  I wasn't a big fan of this box, but I know a lot of other players love it.  I just didn't find it really added anything to the game.
Innsmouth Horror - This is my favourite expansion.  It's a "big box" that adds to the board, as well as adding new investigators, a whole whack of Ancient Ones (8), two more Heralds, the aquatic movement mechanic, and Personal Stories, which are a lot of fun.  They're kind of meta-game missions for each character that can add some cool mechanics or enhance a character if successfully completed... or really hinder a character if failed.  They can detract from the main goal of the game, however, so you have to be careful.  Innsmouth is an interesting place with its own mechanics that don't feel like busywork like Kingsport.  The Ancient Old ones here are also quite interesting, with their own mechanics and challenges.
The Lurker at the Threshold - The latest "small box" expansion, this adds Gate tokens with new mechanics that replace the existing Gates in the game, Relationship cards which can change how your investigator relates to the other investigators in the game (in both positive and negative ways), and the Lurker at the Threshold herald, who can be a help or a hinderance.  He likes to help you succeed at casting spells... but there may be a price to pay.  If you don't tend to play spell casters, it's also completely ignorable.

Spring 2011 will see the release of the Miskatonic Horror expansion, which is a big box expansion that adds to all of the other expansions.

As for which to get, if you can only get a few, I'd recommend Innsmouth Horror, the King in Yellow, and Kingsport Horror, if only for the Epic Battles.

I have all of the expansions to date, and have played them all pretty extensively (except for the Black Goat of the Woods), and they all have their pros and cons.  I would starts with those three, however.  You can play with all of the expansions at once, but be prepared that you will have a lot of things to keep track of.  Not to mention that you'd need a very large table and that the balance would require a large number of investigators.


Can Rhys be played in a mono-green EDH deck?

No, you cannot play Rhys the Redeemed in a mono-green EDH deck. You can only play cards with hybrid mana costs if all of their colors are part of the commander's color identity.

The commander rules describe the color identity rules in rule 903.4:

  The Commander variant uses color identity to determine what cards can be in a deck with a certain commander. The color identity of a card is the color or colors of any mana symbols in that card's mana cost or rules text, plus any colors defined by its characteristic-defining abilities (see rule 604.3) or color indicator (see rule 204).

and the hybrid mana symbols are defined in rule 107.4e:

  Hybrid mana symbols are also colored mana symbols. Each one represents a cost that can be paid in one of two ways, as represented by the two halves of the symbol. A hybrid symbol such as {W/U} can be paid with either white or blue mana, and a monocolored hybrid symbol such as {2/B} can be paid with either one black mana or two mana of any type. A hybrid mana symbol is all of its component colors.

So, Rhys's color identity is green/white, which means that it can only be played in a deck with a commander that has both green and white in its color identity.


Does undying triggers an addition of counter?

Yes.

Counters are always placed onto objects (they never exist without having been placed).

  121.6. Some spells and abilities refer to counters being “placed” on an object. This refers to putting counters on that object while it’s on the battlefield and also to an object that’s given counters as it enters the battlefield.

A ruling on Hardened Scales (similar cards such as Doubling Season and Winding Constrictor have similar rulings) clarifies this:

  “Placed on a creature you control” includes that creature entering the battlefield with +1/+1 counters on it.

When undying triggers and returns a creature to the battlefield, that creature is entering the battlefield with a +1/+1 counter on it.

  702.92a Undying is a triggered ability. “Undying” means “When this permanent is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, if it had no +1/+1 counters on it, return it to the battlefield under its owner’s control with a +1/+1 counter on it.”

As a technical note, Hardened Scales does work (resulting in the additional counter) but doesn't trigger ("trigger" has a specific meaning in Magic) because it's a replacement effect, not a triggered ability. This means it modifies the way something happens as it happens. Triggered abilities are placed onto the stack as a reaction to something happening and then resolve separately.

Added information:

Winding Constrictor and Hardened Scales both provide replacement effects. When an event occurs that they would replace, you choose which one happens. Because the replaced event still places counters, the other one will still happen afterwards. Each replacement effect can only modify an event once, so you don't have an endless chain. You'll get one extra counter for each Winding Constrictor and each Hardened Scales.

For Walking Ballista, as detailed earlier in the question, counters on an object always get there by being "placed". Yes, Walking Ballista is given counters as it enters the battlefield, which is part of rule 121.6.


Assuming a relatively standard framework, then partner's response shows 6-9 points with no 4-card Major and an inability to make a weak raise in diamonds. It is generally desired to play in a 3NT game with two balanced hands when the partnership assets total 25 (or a good-matching and equally divided 24) points. Partner's announced 6 with your 19 make 25, so the book bid is a direct raise to 3NT, as stated by ruds.

However, there are strategic considerations. There may be difficulties with so few partnership assets hidden. The opponents may well be playing double dummy from trick 2 or 3 on if a good lead is found. I would tend to underbid by a point here, and raise just to 2NT with exactly 19, when not vulnerable. It is winning bridge to stretch slightly (to game, not slam) when vulnerable, and retract slightly (again wrt to game only - small-slam bidding is reversed) when not vulnerable. This reflects the unequal rewards and benefits of vulnerable and not vulnerable game (or rubber) bonuses.

The raise to just 2NT invites partner to continue on with 8-9 points, and to pass (or correct, if your agreements allow) with just 6-7.

Daily smile for those who know Latin: I saw the use of boni in place of bonuses last weekend in an answer on another site - clearly by someone who didn't know that boni means "good men", and Boni means specifically "the good men who conspired to assassinate Caesar". The meaning of the answer changed dramatically with that interpretation.


Does Harmonic Sliver have to destroy a permanent?

The Sliver's ability says "destroy target artifact or enchantment," not just "destroy target permanent." So it can only destroy something which is an artifact or enchantment. In particular, the Sliver cannot destroy itself unless it there is some ability in effect that makes it an artifact or enchantment.

Also note that the ability does not say "may" (as in "you may destroy target artifact or enchantment"). So you are required to destroy an artifact or enchantment if there is one on the battlefield. This makes no distinction as to who controls the artifact or enchantment; if you're the only player who controls any artifacts or enchantments, then you must choose one of your own to be the target of the ability. If there are no artifacts or enchantments in play when the sliver enters the battlefield, then the ability is removed from the stack (and nothing is destroyed).


Can a red spell (Sorcery, Instant, etc) affect a green creature?

Yes, you can. If a spell targets a creature, unless it says otherwise, it can target any creature of any colour. The spell's own colour is simply a non-issue.

Consider that if you did have to cast red spells on red creatures, or black spells on black creatures, Doom Blade would be completely useless, being a black spell which says:

  Destroy target nonblack creature.

There are a few exceptions:

That creature can't have Hexproof, unless it's your own creature. Hexproof means your opponents cannot target that creature with their spells or abilities, but you can do so just fine. Benthic Giant is an example of one such creature. If you control a Benthic Giant, you can target it with your own Auger Spree to make it temporarily an 8/1 creature, but your opponent can't cast their own Augur Spree on your Benthic Giant.
The creature can't have Shroud. An example: Algae Gharial. It's an old mechanic which says the creature simply can't be targeted by spells or abilities, full stop - not even your own. You won't run into Shroud in newer cards, because it's been replaced by Hexproof.
The creature can't have Protection from your spell's colour. A creature with protection from a colour cannot be targeted by spells of that colour. (Protection also does some other good things for you.) For example, Hand of Honor has protection from black, which means it can't be targeted by Doom Blade.

Protection can do more than simply pick a colour. Petrified Wood-Kin, for example, can't be targeted by instants, and Azorius First-Wing can't be enchanted.

The creature must otherwise not say it can't be targeted.

And naturally, the creature has to be a valid target for the spell.

The same principles apply to all spells. You can cast Fade into Antiquity on non-green enchantments, and so on.


Is it possible in UNO to run out of cards to draw?

Yes.  Here's how:

10-player game.  Designate players 5 and 10 "lucky", meaning that these players monopolize the number that initially flops, and also monopolize the wilds, ensuring that they always manage to play, and the other eight "unlucky" players are never able to play.  Assign two of the four colors to players 1-5, and the other two colors to players 6-10, ensuring that the current color is always inconvenient when an unlucky player's turn comes around.

Let's say players 1-5 got the colors blue+green, and the red 1 initially flopped. The "lucky" players proceed to play out the other 7 1's, with the unlucky players drawing (8*4=32) cards in the process, leaving only 5 cards in the discard pile.  Player 10 plays a Wild, calling one of his own colors, and then the endgame begins:

Player 1 draws a junk card
Player 2 draws a Wild Draw 4 and plays it, calling one of player 10's colors
Player 3 draws the last 3 cards from the deck, including a Wild Draw 4, then reshuffles the discard into the draw and also draws a Wild.
Player 4 draws a previously played blue or green 1
Player 5 plays a Wild, calling one of his own colors
Player 6 draws a previously played red or yellow 1
Player 7 draws a previously played red or yellow 1
Player 8 draws a previously played red or yellow 1
Player 9 draws a previously played red or yellow 1
Player 10 plays a Wild Draw 4 that he has held since the start
Player 1 draws draws the last three cards from the deck (all 1s), then reshuffles and draws a Wild
Player 2 draws and plays a Wild Draw 4, calling one of player 10's colors
Player 3 reshuffles that Wild Draw 4 into the draw pile and draws it, -there are no cards left to draw-
Player 4 has nothing to play and no cards to draw

Here's a sample deck order for producing this result:
https://pastebin.com/hzBiFQ0B


How can I balance mandatory quests in two-player games of Lords of Waterdeep?

First, I agree that Mandatory Quests can be a little unbalancing. I've never played 2-player, but I can see how they could be even worse in that case. I've seen a handful of alternatives, any of which may work for you and your opponent:

Don't use them. Remove them from the Intrigue deck beforehand, or discard and draw again if you draw one during the game.
Allow, but penalise, completing other quests while they're in play. Make them not mandatory. Allow the receiver of the Mandatory Quest to complete other quests, but any VP reward is reduced by, for instance, the VP reward of the Mandatory Quest, until they complete the Mandatory Quest to remove this penalty.
Allow other quests, but penalise taking time over the Mandatory Quest. Allow other quests to be completed, but at the end of every one of your turns when you have an incomplete Mandatory Quest in front of you, lose some VP. You could lose 1 VP the first turn, 2 the second and so on, tracking with VP chips if necessary (or think of a flat rate per turn - 2 VP maybe? - if you prefer). You could probably ignore a Mandatory Quest late in the game (when they're most annoying, in my experience), but early Mandatory Quests should be completed before they snowball.
Allow counters. You can reveal a Mandatory Quest from your hand to cancel out being given one. Both are discarded. This would reduce how often they're played, since you may keep one in your hand in defence.

Hopefully one of these suggestions will help you out, or inspire you to come up with your own solution that you feel is right!


Is there an extension that converts regular Pandemic to Pandemic Legacy: Season 1?

There is no expansion to convert Pandemic into Pandemic Legacy.

Firstly, the board is not the same anyway. It has a month track that doesn't exist on the non-Legacy board, as well as printed places for stickers that alter the board. Many other components are also different.

Secondly, even if there was an expansion/conversion kit, it would be nearly as expensive as the full Pandemic Legacy due to the large number of added components (sticker sheets, secret booklets, secret decks, secret boxes), and due to needing to replace some standard components with Legacy versions (some cards, the board, the occupation cards).

Thirdly, considering that you have to permanently alter your board and cards in order to play a Legacy game, you would just have to replace your copy of Pandemic after using it in a Legacy game anyway, resulting in no savings even if an expansion was offered.

No, the price of Pandemic Legacy is the only available way to play Pandemic Legacy.


In short - this situation can't arise in Monopoly as long as the normal official rules are being followed.
The text on the chance card says

Go back to Old Kent Road
Do not pass GO.

Since Old Kent Road is the very first property, there is nowhere you can go back to it and pass GO.
All movement is in the direction of the GO arrow, unless you're instructed to go "backward"

If there are strange house-rules then that's up to the house to decide what happens.


From the FAQ:

Does the Runner take damage if he jacks out after encountering a Chum
and not breaking its subroutine?
No. The Runner has not encountered
another piece of ice, and  so the subroutine on Chum has no effect.

Data Raven's "tag or quit" ability triggers when the runner encounters the ICE, though.  So by that point the runner MUST now break all the subroutines or pay the Chum penalty... jacking out of the run now won't save them.


How much of an advantage is going first in Splendor?

The player taking the first turn in Splendor receives the following advantages, regardless of player count:

The ability to reserve any single development card before any other player, during the first round of turns
The ability to acquire the correct gem tokens to purchase any single, specific lowest tier (i.e., green-backed) development card in round 3, should no other player reserve that card during rounds 1 and 2
The ability to acquire, in aggregate, at least 2 of a single specific gem color during the first 2 rounds.
The ability to receive a noble first, if the requirements are met, prior to any other player also meeting those requirements on their turn, during the same round.

In theory the advantages provide an opportunity to enact a strategy given the visible development cards and nobles, e.g., "get the development cards corresponding to the most common color among nobles."  In practice, the strategy may not be feasible for the entirety of the game as new development cards are revealed and other players acquire them.  Also consider that a player may take advantage #1 to the exclusion of advantages #3 and 4 (ceding those advantages to player 2) and vice versa.  Certainly, as some games play out, the actions taken by the first player during the first few rounds may look sub-optimal in retrospect!
The player taking the first turn in Splendor receives no initial disadvantages.  However, possibly based on player count and remaining gem token count, the first player may have to take a sub-optimal action starting on the third round. That is tougher to exactly quantify given the gem token counts at different player counts (and of course specific player actions).  Here is one possible scenario, which illustrates the minimum non-joker gem token counts the first player can expect at the start of the 3rd round:

Now for (more?) anecdotal evidence: I've played over a hundred games of Splendor at 3 and 4 player counts, and I've never felt like player order mattered much.  Although going last has caused me to make contrarian token picks in the hope that I get lucky when new development cards are revealed.  I have won games vs good players even when I was the last player. I have also lost games badly when I was the first player.


How can you ever buy a development card with 14 tokens?

I don't think players are meant to by a level 3 development card with just gem tokens. As you righty say, buying a development card costing 14 or more with just gem tokens would be impossible. Are you are aware that development cards count as bonuses? If you look at the rules here they say-

  The bonuses a player has from development cards acquired on previous
  turns provide discounts on the purchase of new cards. Each bonus of a
  given color is equal to a token of that color. Thus, if a player has 2
  blue bonuses and wants to purchase a card which costs 2 blue tokens
  and 1 green token, the player must only spend 1 green token. If a
  player has enough development cards (and therefore bonuses), they can
  even purchase a card without spending any tokens.

So a player can buy a development card costing 14 tokens provided that the cost is reduced by bonuses for previously bought development cards.


How long does it take to play Diplomacy?

Odds are that you're not going to want to get it (which is tragic, as it's a great game), since it's a long-play game.  I've found that a game typically takes 4 hours or more.

Interestingly, new player groups and experienced player groups will typically take about the same amount of time.  New players take time because they're figuring out the rules, but they're not going to be nearly as Machiavellian.  Experienced players take time because they're creating plots within plots and being devious, which leads to protracted engagements on multiple fronts.

If you really want to make a game of Diplomacy cruise along, I recommend the following:

1) Have an experienced player resolve all orders at the end of each turn.  That helps speed things along.

2) Set a solid time limit for each turn, like five minutes.  Five minutes is very long for the first three or four turns, but by the eighth turn it's barely enough time to write your orders.  Yes, setting a time limit impairs your ability to engage in negotiations, but it'll make the game end in a reasonable amount of time.

Another option:  Play in one-hour (or two-hour) sessions.  Leave the board set up between sessions.  Long ago, I made a copy of the board, mounted it on foam-core, and stuck color-coded push-pins in it to "save" the state of the board between games.  Something nice about this is that you can do all the diplomacy and negotiation you want to, and you can engage in diplomacy between games.  That's a big part of Diplomacy (go figure), and can make for a really fun experience.


Your game's type is Draw and discard.  Knowing the nationality of your teacher could narrow your search.  Your description sounds a lot like a variant of Yaniv / Jhyap.
Yaniv description in Pagat:

Deal: Five cards are dealt to each player

The objective of the game is to have a lower total value of cards in your hand than the other players. When you think you have achieved this, you call "Jhyap" in Nepal or "Yaniv" in Israel to stop the play and compare hands.

Each game is composed of rounds, and each player's total score is updated after each round. The goal of the game is to keep your score to a minimum. Players with more than an agreed maximum, for example 200 points, drop out of the game, which is then continued until there is only one player left.


The winning strategy for such a small Hex board is shown in this basic strategy guide.

Like tic-tac-toe, on a 4x4 board white will always win by opening on the main diagonal, because for every counter that black can make, there is another way for white to force the win. Once white can form a "two-bridge" by placing the second piece in a non-adjacent space but with two empty neighbouring hexes in common, there is no way to block white from completing the chain, since there are two empty adjacent hexes to complete the link.

Here's an example position after white's second turn:

As you could see by playing out all the scenarios for white along the main diagonal, it's impossible to stop white from forming a "two-bridge"

If white plays a1, there are two-bridges at b3 and c2. Black can't stop both.
If white plays b2, there are two-bridge plays at a3, c4, d3, and c1.
If white plays c3, it's a mirror position of b2.
If white plays d4, it's a mirror position of a1.

Black can't win because there is always a way for white to orphan a black piece on this size board, making it impossible for black to form a "two-bridge".

I'm not that familiar with the game but my understanding is that the strategy only really becomes deep and interesting once the board gets to a 10x10 size.


You're correct in assuming that that trick won't work.  The entire process of paying the loyalty cost and then having the Planeswalker die due to state-based actions doesn't use the stack, so there's no opportunity for a spell or ability (which would use the stack) to preempt it. Between the time you pay the -2 cost (bringing her to 0 loyalty) and the next time you'd be able to use a spell or ability, she's been moved to the graveyard.

If you want to preempt a state-based action, your only option is a replacement effect, but you'd be hard-pressed to find a replacement effect that would save a Planeswalker at 0 loyalty.


If I have two things that activate at the beginning of the end step, what happens?

Unfortunately, you don't get the servo.

Hidden Stockpile has an "intervening if" trigger, which means it checks the state to see if it even goes on the stack.  If a creature had not left before the end step, then it won't ever go on the stack.

  603.4. A triggered ability may read “When/Whenever/At [trigger event], if [condition], [effect].” When the trigger event occurs, the ability checks whether the stated condition is true. The ability triggers only if it is; otherwise it does nothing. If the ability triggers, it checks the stated condition again as it resolves. If the condition isn’t true at that time, the ability is removed from the stack and does nothing. Note that this mirrors the check for legal targets. This rule is referred to as the “intervening ‘if’ clause” rule. (The word “if” has only its normal English meaning anywhere else in the text of a card; this rule only applies to an “if” that immediately follows a trigger condition.)


Does removing an anomaly that reduces an action point give back the lost point for that turn?

Yes, once the anomaly is removed the normal action limit is restored giving the player back the action they did not have.


Has the significance of the term 'cast' changed?

TL;DR Yes, cards with "successfully cast" have undergone a functional rule change.

The change you're talking about is actually a fairly old rules change - the removal of the phrase (and function) "successfully cast" was with the Sixth Edition rules changes. Previous to the Classic rules (the Sixth Edition rules changes), the Interrupt spell type still existed, and counterspells were of that type. You'd use an Interrupt to counter a spell, and it would fail being "successfully cast." See the Sixth Edition rules change letter for some specifics:

  Classic rules do away with interrupts. All interrupts are now instants, which means you can counter a spell any time before it resolves. (Abilities that trigger on a spell being "successfully cast" now trigger on a spell being "played.")

As a result, all previous triggers based on spells being successfully cast now trigger on spells being "played," which was changed to "cast" during the M12 rules changes. This has caused a functional rules change - a spell which is cast and countered will still trigger an ability on these older "successfully cast" cards.

The choice was either describing these triggers as "when a spell is cast and resolves" (which is a bit complex), or widening the trigger window for these cards. Your phrasing of the original intent is close, but not quite right. For the original trigger to happen, the spell would have had to be cast and resolve. With your phrasing, copies of a spell (created with Fork, Isochron Scepter, etc.) resolve and may not be countered, but are never cast.


What happens if a player exiles Wurmcoil Engine when it dies with Mimic Vat?

Your interpretation is incorrect.
Each card has a triggered ability. The current oracle rules are:
Wurmcoil Engine

When Wurmcoil Engine dies, put a 3/3 colorless Wurm artifact creature token with deathtouch and a 3/3 colorless Wurm artifact creature token with lifelink onto the battlefield.

Mimic Vat

Imprint — Whenever a nontoken creature dies, you may exile that card. If you do, return each other card exiled with Mimic Vat to its owner's graveyard.
{3},{T} : Put a token onto the battlefield that's a copy of the exiled card. It gains haste. Exile it at the beginning of the next end step.

So both triggered abilities go on the stack when the non-token Wurmcoil Engine dies. What is confusing you is that they do not immediately resolve. (See section 603 of the Comprehensive Rules.) Technically, whoever has priority puts their triggered ability on the stack first, but in this case, it doesn't matter much.
Therefore, the controller of the Wurmcoil Engine gets the two artifact tokens and the controller of the Mimic Vat may have the Wurmcoil Engine imprinted on their Mimic Vat. If they choose to do so, the Wurmcoil Engine card is exiled and any other imprinted card is returned to the owner's graveyard.


Can you banish maiden with the eyes of blue even if it is face up?

Let's read Maiden with Eyes of Blue's effect, emphasis mine:

  When a card or effect is activated that targets this card (Quick Effect): You can Special Summon 1 "Blue-Eyes White Dragon" from your hand, Deck, or GY. When this card is targeted for an attack: You can negate the attack, and if you do, change the battle position of this card, then you can Special Summon 1 "Blue-Eyes White Dragon" from your hand, Deck, or GY. You can only use 1 "Maiden with eyes of Blue" effect per turn, and only once that turn.

We can see that nowhere on it's card text reads that it cannot be destroyed. Thus, otherwise there is another card your opponent has, the Maiden is not indestructible by herself.

When you target her with any effect, she special summon a Blue-eyes, but she does not negate that effect.

When you attack her, she negates the first attack, and special summons a Blue-eyes. However, if you attack her again she will take the hit.

In short, you can target and destroy the Maiden by various means, as nowhere on it's text is indicated otherwise. Just, be ready to handle the Blue-Eyes White Dragon that comes with you doing that.


Yes, you can, for both. Prophet of Kruphix allows you to cast "Creature Cards" as though they had flash. Thassa's Emissary IS a Creature Card. It's NOT a "Creature", as a "Creature" is a permanent on the battlefield, which it isn't while it's in your hand or on the stack. But it IS a "Creature Card", and that's all that matters.

See rules for Bestow, noting that Bestow ability that allows you to cast it as an Aura is a static ability of the card itself, not of a creature or aura permanent.

  702.102. Bestow

    702.102a Bestow represents two static abilities, one that functions while the card with bestow is on the stack and another that functions
    both while it's on the stack and while it's on the battlefield.
    "Bestow [cost]" means "You may cast this card by paying [cost] rather
    than its mana cost." and "If you chose to pay this spell's bestow
    cost, it becomes an Aura enchantment and gains enchant creature. These
    effects last until one of two things happens: this spell has an
    illegal target as it resolves or the permanent this spell becomes,
    becomes unattached." Paying a card's bestow cost follows the rules for
    paying alternative costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2e–g.


Can the Wasabi card and a Nigiri card be played together at once?

The designer of the game clarified this rule in a boardgamegeek thread

  The intention of the rule is that you can choose the order you play the two cards when using chopsticks. So you can play a Wasabi and then a Nigiri on top of it right away!


Yes, there are many examples if you look up a go "bestiary" (=

One such position:

$$B Status?
$$ -----------------
$$ | O O X . O X . .
$$ | O . X . O X . .
$$ | X X X O O X . .
$$ | . . O , O X . .
$$ | O O O O O X . .
$$ | X X X X X X . .
$$ | . . . . . . . .

If it is Japanese, Chinese, or AGA rules (basically anything without suicide), then white is dead. Black can fill all the inner liberties then capture the 3 stones like this:

$$B Death for W -2,4,6 = Pass
$$ -----------------
$$ | O O X 1 O X . .
$$ | O 7 X 3 O X . .
$$ | X X X O O X . .
$$ | . 5 O , O X . .
$$ | O O O O O X . .
$$ | X X X X X X . .
$$ | . . . . . . . .

After capturing black has 3 liberties to white's 1.

If you are playing NZ rules however, the status totally changes:

$$B W is alive! W2 is a suicide play at 'a'
$$ -----------------
$$ | . 6 X 1 O X . .
$$ | 4 a X 3 O X . .
$$ | X X X O O X . .
$$ | . 5 O , O X . .
$$ | O O O O O X . .
$$ | X X X X X X . .
$$ | . . . . . . . .

Play up through W6 is seki. By being able to make a suicide move, white can make an eye inside and black does not have access to these extra liberties.  If black makes a move inside his own big eye space (playing at 5 at 6 for instance), he will not have enough liberties to win the capturing race, it will become an eye vs. eye seki.

The amusing this about this position is that no matter who plays first in either instance, the status will not change, it may be left as is until the scoring phase of the game*.
Whether white is scored as unconditionally alive or unconditionally dead will vary with ruleset, even though the position is identical.

*Clarification - Under NZ rules, black may wish to play out this sequence as ko threats, however the status of the group will not change based on who plays first.  Under non-suicide rulesets white does not even have ko threats.


Name of card game of lowest sum in four cards with half-blind trading

This is a Golf variation.
This is a mix of the card game Golf / Cabo with Blind Man's Bluff added for the final deduction/bluffing/betting/negotiation round, plus the addition of the two series elements, zero cards and hand size reduction.
I can't find any reference to a specific game/name with this combination, however.


If my opponent casts Ultimate Price on my Phantasmal Bear, can I save it by casting Snap or Curfew?

You can save your Phantasmal Bear with Curfew, but not with Snap.

The "illusion ability" is a triggered ability, and once it triggers it goes on the stack on top of whatever spell or ability triggered it. So, after your opponent casts the Ultimate Price, the triggered ability goes on the stack and then you have the opportunity to respond. If you respond by casting Curfew, you can choose to put the Phantasmal Bear into your hand, which will save it from both its own ability and the removal spell. If you instead respond with Snap, Snap itself targets the creature, so the illusion ability will trigger again and go onto the stack on top of Snap, and you will have to sacrifice the creature before Snap resolves.


You are allowed 1 heavy weapon per 10 Orks, but you can choose which one it is - a Big Shoota (BS) or Rokkit Launcha (RL). They don't all have to be the same type. In other words, with 30 Orks, the maximum heavy weapons you are allowed to have are either:

3RL
1BS + 2RL
2BS + 1RL
3BS


The English version of this card specifies OTHER players:

So, no, you cannot play this card on yourself.


Do undying creatures get counters if I sacrifice them with Plaguemaw Beast?

You can choose to give the Undying creature a second counter.
The order of events is as follows, omitting irrelevant/obvious steps:

You announce that you want to use the creature's ability and put it on the stack.
You pay all costs; in this case, sacrifice an Undying creature.
Sacrificing the creature triggers its Undying ability, which is put on the stack on top of the Beast's ability.
The Undying ability resolves and the creature returns to the battlefield.
The Proliferate ability resolves and you may choose the returned creature to give it another +1/+1 counter. Since the Beast's ability is not targeted, you don't choose the permanents as targets, i.e. when you announce the ability, but only when it resolves.

Rules reference:

602.2. To activate an ability is to put it onto the stack and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. [...] Activating an ability follows the steps listed below, in order. [...]
602.2a The player announces that he or she is activating the ability. [...] It becomes the topmost object on the stack.
[...]
601.2g The player pays the total cost in any order. [...]


What is a solid basic strategy for surviving Ghost Story

When you have the choice, put weak ghosts in the corner spaces. This allows the players the possibility of saving time and killing two ghosts at a time.
Use the Buddhas as much as possible. It takes two turns to set them up (with the double-action monk) but automatically kills two ghosts - even big ones that would normally take longer to kill.
Only engage with a ghost if you're sure to kill it or only need one die to come up to the appropriate color. If you rely on two dice coming up your way, you will likely be wasting an action that could have been used elsewhere.


Will a God Eternal enchanted with Deep Freeze shuffle back into the deck if it dies?

You're right, it won't shuffle back.
I can see why one would think it does; when a creature dies, auras on it die as well. God-Eternal Oketra will enter the graveyard unenchanted, so it 'seems to have' its third ability again, and it should trigger, right? No:

112.6. ... Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield. ...

There follows a list of exceptions, e.g. "An object’s ability that modifies how that particular object enters the battlefield functions as that object is entering the battlefield.", but leaving the battlefield (by dying or by being exiled) is not one of them.
So the third ability functions only on the battlefield (or more precisely, it's a special case of 603.10a; the game looks backs to the state on the battlefield), and while it's on the battlefield, it's still enchanted and loses all abilities due to Deep Freeze.


You're trying to run out of cards, and the opportunities to change colors are somewhat limited. Your goal, therefore, should be to play the last card of one of your colors, then be able to switch to another color you have on the next play. This doesn't always work, of course.

When changing colors (via wild or matching the card), you should switch to the color that you have the most of. Switching to the color that you have the most cards in gives you the best chance to "even out" your hand; if you're stuck with 7 cards in your hand, it will be easier to play when you have 2 yellows, 2 reds, and 3 greens than to play when you have 5 yellows and 2 reds. Note that it will be easy to play one card when you have a four-card hand consisting of one of each color, but it will be hard to go out with such a hand: changing colors is somewhat difficult, and you can't count on it happening when you want it to.

When somebody calls "Uno," it's best to assume that their last card is the same color as the previous card they played; otherwise, the player going out is hoping against hope for a lucky play. Therefore, you change the color in play after somebody calls "Uno," by whatever means is handy. (Or inflict a Draw Two or Draw Four Wild against them.)


Can you build the same building more than once in Puerto Rico?

According to the rules for the online version on BrettspielWelt, "no player may build a building more than once."

And you can confirm this by looking at the official rules from Rio Grande, page 8:

  For all buildings:
  - Each player may build each building only once.


If Progenitus "dies" to the command zone, can I shuffle my deck?

Yes, if you apply the replacement effects as described, you will still shuffle your library.

In the rules for the Shuffle keyword action, rule 701.19c says

  If an effect would cause a player to shuffle one or more specific objects into a library, that library is shuffled even if none of those objects are in the zone they’re expected to be in or an effect causes all of those objects to be moved to another zone or remain in their current zone.

In fact, one of the examples covers a very similar situation. It says

  Black Sun’s Zenith says, in part, “Shuffle Black Sun’s Zenith into its owner’s library.” Black Sun’s Zenith is in a graveyard, has gained flashback (due to Recoup, perhaps), and is cast from that graveyard. Black Sun’s Zenith will be exiled, and its owner’s library will be shuffled.

In that situation, like in this one, we have an instruction to shuffle the card into the library, and a replacement effect (created by Flashback) to move the card to another zone (exile) instead of the library.


What is the best method to choose whom to lynch on the first day?

The first day it is awfully random.  However, there are a few rules of thumb you can use.

First, you mentioned the seer, so let's get that out of the way, then the rest of my explanation should work for games without seers.

As a seer you should stay quiet until you've identified a werewolf.  Once you've identified a werewolf:

Say "I am a seer"
Reveal who've you've identified good and bad
The other seers in the game should ALSO admit to being seers, and give the information they've learned

Once this is done, there may be a werewolf masquerading as a seer.  This is fine, as both groups now will kill each other off until there are no more people claiming to be seers.  Since cards are revealed, you now know which seer information to trust and which not to trust.

Next, assume a game with no (more) seers.

To figure out who and how to accuse, consider the following:

As a werewolf:

The odds are against you, accuse the more experienced player
If you feel like the group is a forgiving one, accuse your other werewolf, be antagonistic to him throughout the game.  If this is known it's likely you'll be seen as safe once one of you dies.
Say nothing, at all, ever.  People tend to accuse people seen to have 'agendas'

As a human:

Accuse the most experienced player.  He is the one most likely to succeed at deception.
Accuse the most impatient person.  A werewolf doesn't need to wonder anything.  Wondering takes cognitive cycles, so werewolves tend to be quicker to talk/accuse.
With a 2/8 split, your odds of choosing someone randomly as a villager are 5:2 (71%).  So have all the players, simultaneously, choose a person at random and point to that person.  This is their 'safe' person that they'll 'trust' throughout the game.  If any two people are pointing to each other (the odds are against this), kill that person, else kill the person with the fewest fingers pointing at him.  (NOTE: The two at each other prevents the werewolves from protecting themselves).    Do not change your safe person throughout the game.  If your safe person dies, you do NOT choose a new one.   This technique works not within a single game (the odds of who gets the most safe fingers is random), but across games, as this makes the safer people MORE OFTEN the villagers than the werewolves.  The 'no two at each other rule' also helps to make the werewolves less likely to have the most votes.

BTW, cold-reading, is a perfectly valid strategy.  I correctly identified, on the very first round, a werewolf in 9 of my last 10 games I played.  The biggest tell is a change in people's behavior.  Most people are not good actors and can't help but play differently.


Any defense against the forum cards in Roma?

Mercator is usually a sure fire way to beat a forum machine, but there are defenses against that too.  (Siccarius and Gladiator both do very well.)  If you Haruspex the Mercator and you have a Consiliarius and/or Scaenicus in play you can usually win handily against a forum machine.  This will usually force your opponent to play offensive with Legionarius and the like.  (The money you use to buy VP can quickly turn against you if your opponent gets decent draws - but they have to realize it and stop spending their action dice on VPs and draw cards or else they will likely lose.)

The Mercatus though isn't so good since you only get points for the # of forums your opponent has, while your opponent is typically generating more VP than they have forums on average.  It could be good in some situations but I personally have never seen it shine.

(Forgive my spelling of card names, I don't have them at hand to verify.)


What rules explain Xantcha's behavior when its controller leaves the game?

When Throne of Eldraine was released in October 2019, Xantcha, Sleeper Agent received functional errata that makes it now work the same way a card obtained with Bribery works; and Xantcha will now be exiled by 800.4a when her controller leaves the game.

Leaving the original answer below; as the question only existed due to the old wording on Xantcha and the old rules associated with that wording.

Xantcha, Sleeper Agent has an ability that generates a continuous effect. This continuous effect then ends due to the first part of rule 800.4a:

  When a player leaves the game, all objects (see rule 109) owned by that player leave the game and any effects which give that player control of any objects or players end.

We can see that it is a continuous effect:

  Continuous Effects

    611.1. A continuous effect modifies characteristics of objects, modifies control of objects, or affects players or the rules of the game, for a fixed or indefinite period.

    611.2. A continuous effect may be generated by the resolution of a spell or ability.

      611.2a A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability lasts as long as stated by the spell or ability creating it (such as “until end of turn”). If no duration is stated, it lasts until the end of the game.

This is confirmed by a Gatherer ruling on Xantcha:

  If the player under whose control Xantcha entered the battlefield leaves the game, the effect changing control of Xantcha ends. Because Xantcha’s replacement effect creates a continuous effect causing another player to control it, Xantcha isn’t exiled.

This is different from the wording on cards such as Bribery, which says "put that card onto the battlefield under your control". In that case, there is no continuous effect, the card simply entered the battlefield under your control. Because of this, the first part of 800.4a would not see a control-changing effect to end, and instead the third part of 800.4a would exile the creature.

Note that the wording that causes the controller to be an opponent is the same on Xantcha as it is on cards like Donate, "[...]player gains control". The only difference is that it is a replacement effect that happens as the creature enters the battlefield, instead of something that happens to a creature already on the battlefield. Bribery on the other hand has no such replacement effect or continuous effect, it simply lets you put something on the battlefield under your control.

It is still correct that you never controlled Xantcha in the first place, but that is not relevant. The rules don't cause Xantcha to "revert" to its original controller, they simply cause a control-changing effect to end. Theoretically, Xantcha could end up going to a different opponent instead, if there were multiple controller-changing effects in play.


Do older versions of cards use the card types printed on the newest version?

He is a Merfolk regardless of what version you use. (Lord is an obsolete creature type.) To find the official text and characteristics of a card, you should use Gatherer.

205.3f Many cards were printed with subtypes that are now obsolete. Many cards have retroactively received subtypes. Use the Oracle card reference to determine what a card’s subtypes are.
108.1. Use the Oracle™ card reference when determining a card’s wording. A card’s Oracle text can be found using the Gatherer card database at Gatherer.Wizards.com.