Do I know which card an opponent revealed?

You only know a revealed card for the duration that it remains revealed.

The example of Shock moving from the graveyard to the hand is a bit nuanced (since the card isn't technically revealed, mechanically), so I'm going to start with a more direct representation of the question and move from there. Let's say you cast a card like Thoughtseize which causes your opponent to reveal their hand. In MTG Arena, this is represented by the game revealing all of those cards to you from that point onward. However, that's not quite feasible in paper Magic - in the vast majority of cases, you'll pick a card for your opponent to discard, and then they'll go back to holding their hand towards themselves. That is, even though the information was revealed to you, by default you don't continue to be able to see those cards. It would be impractical for the opponent to hold newly drawn cards in their hand and simultaneously have those previously revealed cards lying on the table, for example. The information is known, but it's up to you to remember what that information was.

When I was playing Standard regularly (circa Theros) and my opponents cast Thoughtseize targeting me, I would show my opponent my hand, and they would use a notepad to write down the cards that they saw. Later, as I played those cards, they would scratch off the name of the card that I played if it was in that list. This, I believe, is what the functionality of MTG Arena seeks to emulate. Knowing that information was revealed to you, but misremembering it, feels bad. Arena can leverage its nature as a computer game to assist you with that, by making sure that you don't forget what cards were revealed. (There are other aspects it helps you with, too -- in real life, the cards you can cast don't glow.)

Rule-wise, of particular interest are the rules for revealing cards:

  701.15a To reveal a card, show that card to all players for a brief time. If an effect causes a card to be revealed, it remains revealed
  for as long as necessary to complete the parts of the effect that card
  is relevant to. If the cost to cast a spell or
  activate an ability includes revealing a card, the card remains
  revealed from the time the spell or ability is announced until the
  time it leaves the stack. If revealing a card causes a
  triggered ability to trigger, the card remains revealed until that
  triggered ability leaves the stack. If that ability isn’t put onto the
  stack the next time a player would receive priority, the card ceases
  to be revealed.

  701.15b Revealing a card doesn’t cause it to leave the zone it’s in.

  701.15c If cards in a player’s library are shuffled or otherwise reordered, any revealed cards that are reordered stop being revealed
  and become new objects.

The phrasing of 701.15a makes it pretty clear that a revealed card is only revealed for a short amount of time, and then ceases to be a revealed card. You know what the card is because it was revealed, and can do whatever you want with that information (such as write it down), but it doesn't stay revealed after that. By extension, cards moving from a public zone to a hidden zone (rule 400.2) work very much the same way. Everyone is allowed to know what that card is as it moves into the zone, but after that, it becomes hidden.

Some relevant excerpts from Rule 400 regarding public and hidden zones:

  400.2 Public zones are zones in which all players can see the cards’ faces, except for those cards that some rule or effect specifically
  allow to be face down. Graveyard, battlefield, stack, exile, ante, and
  command are public zones. Hidden zones are zones in which not all
  players can be expected to see the cards’ faces. Library and hand are
  hidden zones, even if all the cards in one such zone happen to be
  revealed.

  [...]

  400.7 An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.

To use your example, let's say your opponent uses Call to Mind to return Shock from their graveyard to their hand. During the announcement of the spell (rule 601.2c), they would choose the target for it - Shock. Because the card is targeted, everyone inside and outside the game knows which spell is going back to their hand. As soon as Call to Mind resolves, the Shock is moved to their hand, where it becomes hidden along with all the other cards they hold. You know what card it is, but it is now part of a hidden zone, and there are no other effects requiring the card to remain revealed. You don't get to see it once it's back in their hand.


Is Jenga a cooperative or competitive game?

Jenga, as designed, is most certainly a competitive game. The rules released with the game have stayed consistent over the years and have never described how to play in a cooperative manner.

Most versions of the rules (such as the 2000 version) have a "Solo Play" variant that might also be able to be played cooperatively with multiple players:

  Play alone for practice! Can you top your record height before the
  tower falls?

  Carefully remove one block from any level. Use a steady hand to stack it on top.
  Continue to remove and stack blocks to build the tower taller…and shakier.
  How tall is too tall? Find out when the tower falls!

One Jenga review described playing a variation of this during a team building event where teams of 3 played cooperatively for a high score:

  I first encountered Jenga in a corporate team building activity. The group was split into teams of three. Each team was given a Jenga set. The objective of the game was for each team, following the standard Jenga rules, to try to build the tower as high as they could. The team that built the tallest tower, without the tower collapsing, won the game.


According to UNO Rules:

  You have to match either by the number, color, or the symbol/Action. For instance, if the Discard Pile has a red card that is an 8 you have to place either a red card or a card with an 8 on it. You can also play a Wild card (which can alter current color in play)

So you do not necessarily have to continue the color, you may change the color any time you want, even when you still have the cards of the same color as the one on the top of the discard pile.


Do you have to perform assist abilities?

No. You do not have to use your assist cards. They are optional. The text on the cards is what happens if you choose to use them, not rules that enter play once the card is drawn.


When does a player's turn end in the Now That's What I Call Music board game?

Quick disclaimer I've never played this and struggled to find printed rules online.  My rules source here is a YouTube unboxing video which showed both sides of the rules sheet.

from my screen cap of the rules the wording is:-

  If the active player answers the question correctly their piece remains where it is.  If they answer incorrectly they go back to where they started their turn.  This is the end of their turn.

If a player was to continue and take another turn this should and would be explicitly stated in the rules.  I personally would read that as "The player wither remains where they are, or moves back.  THEN (regardless of the result) their turn ends.

The other rules for Song Charades and Oldies follow a similar pattern of stating what happens for success and failure and then that turn passes on.  From reading this I don't think you can assume the players take successive turns in a Trivial Pursuit fashion. Just because it's the rule in another game does not mean it is here.  This to me is a case of 'If its not printed in the rules to take extra goes then it isn't the rule'


Will infinite loops still force a draw if I have a way to end them?

You have 2 options:

(1) Propose a shortcut where you pass priority on the triggers, allowing Saprolings to be made. If your opponent agrees, you can specify the number of iterations, and then use something like naturalize to destroy one of the enchantments, ending the loop.

(2) You can let the loop proceed indefinitely, resulting in a draw. This is allowed by rule 719.5

  719.5. No player can be forced to perform an action that would end a loop other than actions called for by objects involved in the loop.

To answer your new questions:
Rule 719.4 applies in the situation where no one can interact with the loop, and all actions are mandatory (e.g., you can't set up a mandatory loop with 3x Fiend Hunter because the triggered ability is optional)

The interaction between Sanguine Bond and Exquisite Blood will cause a player to lose the game. This is because state-based actions are responsible for making a person lose when his or her life is 0 or less. State-based actions are checked before any player gets priority and before any triggered abilities are put on the stack, which means that they occur before effects like Sanguine Bond and Exquisite Blood can continue to loop.


For Goblin Grenade can you sacrifice a creature that attacked?

Assuming the Goblins in question survive combat and Goblin Grenade is cast during the Second Main Phase this is perfectly legal.

This is a common strategy for Goblin decks to deal as much damage as they can as fast as they can regardless of the cost to them. While this allows them to make some very powerful plays like sacrificing Goblins to Goblin Grenade, it also makes them very fragile. For example if you are able to counter the Grenade they still have sacrificed the Goblin as part of the cost for paying the spell, so they are down a lot of resources that are going to make it harder for them to win the game. So while in the right deck Goblin Grenade is very strong I would not call it OP or broken.


Can I pocket and cover the Queen in a single strike and win?

"If while shooting for the Queen you also sink one of your pieces, the Queen is automatically covered, no matter which went in first." Carrom.org

By this rule the game would be won along with the bonus for the Queen.


Is this double ko played reasonably by AlphaGo Zero and AlphaGo Lee?

There is a difference between the two semi-stable double ko positions, although a rather small one. C14 reduces the immediate number of liberties of the G13 leg. This means that black will have a free tempo when G13 runs out of liberties, if we assume that black can find a big enough ko threat to answer the C13 capture with C14 in order to force the B15 gote.

Assuming black still has a big enough ko threat when G13 runs out of liberties, the value of keeping the one liberty at C14 filled is most likely 1 point (turning a one point sente for white to a reverse-sente, as we can infer from what happens later in the game), so the two-move sequence of capturing the double ko at C13/C14 followed by an answer as A13/A14 has a (ko-related) miai value of 1 for both players. That explains why both players take the opportunity to capture this double ko whenever they can.

An other way to put it is to attribute an average of 4.5 liberties to the G13 group (alternating between 4 and 5), with white being able to force it up when they need it if black can't find a big enough ko threat.


cooperative game that is NOT like pandemic, forbidden island et al

You have Sherlock Holmes Consulting Detective, in which the goal is to find the truth in the smallest number of steps. You can never lose to SHCD, you can simple have a very bad score.

In Shadows over Camelot, each quest will give you either white or black swords. The game ends when the players collected 12 swords or more and they win if more than half of them are white.

And my favourite: Les Mousquetaires du Roy (Ye King's Musketeers) is a semi-cooperative in which a player incarnates Milady, the evil spy of the Cardinal of Richelieu and all the others play Athos, Portos, Aramis, D'Artagnan and/or Tréville. Quests will reward the players but as they don't play against the game but against another player, the game isn't quite like a usual cooperative game.
The game can be a 1-vs-0 up to 5-vs-0 game, or a 1-vs-1 up to 5-vs-1 game.


Does the Favor of the Pope begin in play in Condottiere?

It begins off of the board. The initial setup is illustrated on p. 4 of the rulebook. It is also worth mentioning that when a player plays a Bishop card, that player can choose to remove the Favor of the Pope token from the board (or leave it off) rather than place it in any region.


Settlers of Catan: Cities and Knights - Rule Clarificarions

Correct, you cannot upgrade to another level 4 unless you first build another city. From the FAQ:

  City Improvements and Metropolises - May I upgrade a city to 2 metropolises at the same time?

    No. If you only have 1 city and already upgraded it to a metropolis, you are not allowed to build a 4th level of improvement in another area. Before you do this, you must upgrade another settlement to a city.

Although the question being asked is about placing 2 metropolises on one city, the answer provided specifically states that you are not allowed to build a 4th level of improvement in another area until you upgrade another settlement into a city.

This same question generated some discussion on BGG a while ago; most people seemed to agree with this interpretation, even though it is not fully clear.


You can find here : http://en.beloteenligne.com/ some additionnal information.

The Belote rules seems so easy, but there were so much strategy going on. In France, they prefer a lot Belote to Poker.
This game is known because in every family (and at school) they play belote on Sunday after the meal.


How far can a knight travel without visiting the same square twice?

There is a famous puzzle called the Knight's Tour in which the aim is to visit every square exactly once.  Since this has several solutions, the answer to your question is that it can visit all 64 squares.


If you trash it, then it goes to the trash pile like a normal card.

Same for Spoils and Ruins.

If you exchange a traveler, then it goes back to the original pile.


Clever Impersonator copying Liliana Heretical Healer

You will get the 2/2 Zombie token and a fresh Clever Impersonator.

The copied Liliana's ability triggers on the other creature's death, the copied Liliana gets exiled and returns to the battlefield. However, the Impersonator only copied the front side of Liliana, the Impersonator itself can not and will not be transformed:

  701.25a Only permanents represented by double-faced cards can transform. (See rule 711, “Double-Faced Cards.”) If a spell or ability instructs a player to transform any permanent that isn’t represented by a double-faced card, nothing happens.

In this case, the "If you do..." part of Liliana's ability is sufficiently satisfied as long as the card is exiled due to the effect, so a 2/2 zombie will be created. (see this post)

Upon leaving the battlefield, the Impersonator also forgot all memory of its previous existence:

  400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule:

The exceptions don't apply here. You exile the Liliana, but return the Impersonator. Therefore, after the exile it enters the battlefield as a fresh Impersonator, ready to copy another permanent.


How do you play the Master Spy in Guillotine?

The Master Spy is quite hard to kill!

Boardgamegeek posed this question a while ago and got this response from Wizards of the Coast.

  there is no way to play a card to get the master spy to the front of the line without him just going back after the cards effects.

For further reference, a secondhand account but the ruling was during a WoTC run game.

This is the way I've always played it as well.  He's the Master Spy!  Of course he's hard to kill :)


Does Stony Silence stop Salvage Titan's activated ability from the graveyard?

No, Stony Silence does not affect that ability on Salvage Titan.
Rule 109.2 says

If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.

Stony Silence refers to "artifacts", so it is talking about artifact permanents on the battlefield. So, while Salvage Titan is in the graveyard, Stony Silence's effect does not apply to it.


Your interpretation was correct. There are several haunts where it refers to "as many things as there are players". While the sentence is grammatically ambiguous, the other interpretation would be very strange because there wil always be only 1 player in the room where the Haunt started; the player who revealed the Haunt. So if that's what they meant, then they could have just said "place 1 firebat in the room..."

Also, the newer revision seems to confirm that the number of firebat is meant to be based on the number of players; though obviously they felt the traitor needed to be nerfed.

One other "proof"... if "players in the room where the Haunt started" were meant as all one clause, then there's nothing at all in the sentence telling you where to place the firebats. The interpretation would be "place 1 firebat", with no mention of where to place them.


Is it advantageous to go first in Dominion?

Yes, it is certainly advantageous to go first in Dominion.

There are some good threads about first player advantage on the DominionStrategy forums.

Here is what Donald X thinks about first player advantage.  Donald X actually underrates first player advantage based on faulty understanding of optimal play with a disadvantage (his "proof" seems to require symmetric play, which is not optimal under the asymmetry that first player advantage can induce) and hence he understates the advantage.

Here is an expert player stating the  reasons for first player advantage.

There is also copious data supporting the idea that first player has an advantage.  Here is some data analysis I did that corrects for second player is better confounding problem @Jefromi mentions.  It says that first player advantage is worth about 2 or 3 points overall.


How can I improve my Chandra, Acolyte of Flame plus Cavalcade of Calamity deck?

If you're playing with Cavalcade of Calamity you must go aggro - full out aggro. It's very weak if you're not being aggressive. Consider: if it's turn 6 and you're playing cards like Chandra, Awakened Inferno, Cavalcade is going to be sitting there doing nothing. Cavalcade is only useful if you're attacking, and by extension that means you must play aggressive creatures. Your curve needs to start at 1 mana, and in turn that means you can't run many expensive cards.

You should remove these:

Chandra's Pyrohelix - this card is inferior, you have better removal options (Slaying Fire and Bonecrusher Giant especially)
Chandra's Regulator - the expensive Chandras aren't aggressive enough, so this card isn't worth it.
Scorching Dragonfire - again, you have better removal options.
Leyline of Combustion - not enough impact. If you could reliably start with it on the battlefield, maaaaybe, but if you can't, it's just too expensive to do too little.
Scampering Scorcher - you can't run many expensive cards. With lots of 1-drops, you don't have the power level to compete in the mid-game; you need to run fewer lands and try to overrun the opponent. You can only run so many 4-drops and Torbran is too good to give up.
All cards >4 mana - per above.
Dwarven Mine - this card isn't bad, but it's not appropriate for a beatdown deck. It only becomes better than a basic Mountain at 4+ mana, which you don't want to get to all that often. Meanwhile you will get games where it enters the battlefield tapped and those are crippling to an aggressive strategy. You are better off running Castle Embereth, not too many copies though because you'll get all-Castle hands and then it becomes clunky.

Cards you should run:

Fervent Champion - strong one-mana card.
Light up the Stage - it's how you keep up in cards.
Skewer the Critics - it's 3 damage for one mana if you can trigger Spectacle, which you'll often be able to (although not necessarily pre-combat).
Experimental Frenzy - usually reserved for post-board games, this is the best source of card advantage you have.
Runaway Steam-Kin - too powerful to not run. It can reach 4/4 for a 2-mana creature which is huge, plus the combo with Experimental Frenzy is very strong.
Tibalt, Rakish Instigator - stops opposing lifegain, generates 1/1s which trigger Cavalcade.
Slaying Fire and Bonecrusher Giant - per above, these are your removal spells that can also be used against the opponent. Being able to burn opponent is important; at some point opponent will likely stabilize the board and your win condition becomes burning them.

Some example lists:

SCG Standard IQ Spring Lake, 6th Place
Mythic Championship V, 5-2 (warning: this list was tuned to beat Bant Golos. Since Field of the Dead is now banned, this list is not optimal anymore.)
Deck by MPL member Martin Juza, with guide


From the rules posted here:

  If your home is destroyed, its spaces count as “unused” and your family sleeps under the stars until it is rebuilt. You must take a Renovate action to renovate to a new Wooden hut.)

I'd say that it's not a free action. I don't have an official ruling on Wood Carver, but I'd say that it would apply.


How many Conspiracy Cards are allowed in a deck

The rules for conspiracy cards are listed in section 313 of the comprehensive rules. Two of the relevant rules from that section are

  313.1. Conspiracy cards are used only in limited play, particularly in the Conspiracy Draft variant (see rule 905). Conspiracy cards aren’t used in constructed play.
  313.2. At the start of a game, before decks are shuffled, each player may put any number of conspiracy cards from his or her sideboard into the command zone. Conspiracy cards with hidden agenda are put into the command zone face down. (See rule 702.105, “Hidden Agenda.”)

So you can have any number, but only in a limited format like draft or sealed. Outside of a format like that, you shouldn't use conspiracies at all.


What are Riggers and Contraptions in MTG and how do I assmble them? (Steamflogger boss question)

Update: It is now the future. We now know what this mechanic is thanks to Unstable!

Contraptions aren't put into your main deck. To play with them, you must build a separate Contraption deck
In Constructed formats, such as Standard-but-with-silver-borders, Commander-but-with-silver-borders, and all-Un-set-Constructed-but-with-Steamflogger-Boss-I-guess, your Contraption deck contains at least fifteen unique Contraptions. The Contraption deck is "singleton," meaning you're limited to only one of each Contraption.
In a Limited format, such as Booster Draft or Sealed Deck, your Contraption deck can contain any or all the Contraptions in your card pool. The fifteen-card minimum and the one-of rule don't apply. You can play whatever Contraptions you draft or open.
Several cards in the set will instruct you or a creature you control to assemble a Contraption. To do this, turn the top card of your Contraption deck face up. Then, put it onto the battlefield under one of your Contraption deck's three sprockets, helpfully labeled Sprocket 1, Sprocket 2, and Sprocket 3.
At the beginning of your upkeep, if you control at least one Contraption, you move the CRANK! counter forward one sprocket (so, from 1 to 2, from 2 to 3, or from 3 to 1). Then you can crank any of the Contraptions under that sprocket. This causes their abilities to trigger. You can put these abilities on the stack in any order. Also, you don't have to crank a Contraption if you don't want to.
How you assemble your Contraptions determines what kind of infernal machine you're building. Load up one sprocket to produce a devastating turn every three turns, or spread them out to make sure you get something every turn?

Taken as a copy paste of the major points for the article detailing them here.

To all you still back in 2012, I hope this was helpful, you just have to wait 5 years or so to play with them.


Do you have to buy the books to get the 40k model rules?

Some packages are/will be released with 'data cards' which will give you the unit stats, and presumably the app will follow the same format as the AoS one.

You will still need the Rulebook, Indexes (in the interim) and Codex (when released) to play, or build your army, in anything more than the most basic manner.


Would enchanting an opponents Stuffy Doll with Pariah cause a Draw?

Yes, that would be a draw as soon as any damage would be dealt to you or the Stuffy Doll, assuming that you are the chosen player for Stuffy Doll.

Once damage would be dealt to you or Stuffy Doll, that damage is dealt to Stuffy Doll. Then Stuffy Doll's triggered ability triggers and it tries to deal damage to you, but it deals that damage to itself instead, which triggers its ability again. This creates an infinite loop, which results in a draw because of rule 719.4:

  If a loop contains only mandatory actions, the game is a draw. (See rules 104.4b and 104.4f.)


There's a couple of things that are important when deciding what to play when you can't follow a suit:

Is it at all likely you can take all the points with this hand? Then don't throw any points at your opponents.
Are there any cards you need to get rid of to avoid catching points yourself? Examples are the Ace or King of Spades, or a high Diamond. When you have a lot of Diamonds, chances are others can't follow Diamonds and throw in points themselves when you are forced to play the Ace. This can become very costly if all you have is more Diamonds to play. If you still had that little Heart that you threw out instead of Ace of Diamonds, you could have played that and forced another player to take it.
Is it possible that the opponent taking the first point, takes all the points? Sometimes you'll regret tossing away that one point when you get 26 added to your score at the end of the hand.
Does the ability to lead Hearts give an escape to a player? If a player is forced to lead Spades (and cut in on his own AK in Spades) because he isn't allowed to play Hearts yet, that might be an advantage also.

Conclusion: Don't automatically break Hearts when you can't follow suit. Think of the long-term game, there's plenty of tricks still coming.


Do Age II or earlier events happen at the end of the game?

Official Through The Ages: A New Story of Civilization handbook says that at the end of the game:

  Final Scoring
  At the end of the game, take all Age III events
  remaining in the current and future events decks and
  evaluate them one by one. Order is not important.

  Note: Events from older ages have no effect on final
  scoring.

So everything is said clearly, events from older ages have no effect, no matter if they could be useful or not in the final summary.

These rules hasn't changed from the previous Through The Ages: A Story of Civilization where the official rulebook was saying:

  At the end of the game, reveal all remaining Age III Event cards from the Current and Future Events decks and score bonus Culture Points according to these cards.

To sum up, if you want any of your previous ages events present in current deck to be evaluated and the game is closing to an end, you have to hurry up with playing new events and hoping that the one you are waiting for will be revealed before the game ends.


Can someone explain me why was this a split pot? texas hold'em

You get the highest possible five card combination. The remaining hole cards are lower than the A and K on the table -- best five cards then is Three of a Kind in 10s, Ace, King.  Other cards are ignored, so both players have the same hand.


What are the Pros and Cons of using cards from multiple different sets when drafting?

Normally drafts are restricted to a single block.

In sanctioned drafting (with sealed boosters), the distribution looks like this:

Core set, the first set of a block, or a "big third set" like Rise of the Eldrazi or Avacyn Restored: three boosters from the same set, e.g. M12 / M12 / M12.
The second set of a block: one booster from the new set, two from the first set (which is bigger), e.g. Dark Ascension / Innistrad / Innistrad.
The (small) third set of a block: one booster from the third set, one from the secondset, one from the first set, e.g. New Phyrexia / Mirrodin Beseiged / Scars of Mirrodin.

(Note that, before Scars block, the pack order was reversed.)

As you can see from the list above, the size of the potential card pool will vary. M12 / M12 / M12 has around 250 possible cards. NP / MB / SOM is closer to 600. Thar larger card pool is trickier for players to learn (folks who play regularly will learn it incrementally, as new sets are introduced). I've heard of triple small-set drafts (e.g. Worldwake or Eventide), but many players say that these have very stilted environments -- both because the card mix is to small and because they were never designed to be drafted stand-alone, so a lot of the card pool assumes you'll have cards from the other set to round out your deck.

The main advantage of staying within a block is that block themes provide players with a reference point for making draft choices. Stepping outside of a single block presents players with additional challenges in evaluating cards against the "metagame" of the total card pool. This may be desirable if you're specifically looking to force players to think on their feet in an unfamiliar situation, but novice drafters have enough to worry about without the extra complexity.

Generally, the cards in a block are all designed to work together (in draft more so than anywhere else, actually -- only some of the cards in each set are intended to be "Constructed-worthy"). When you stray from that structure, you risk watering down the archetypes built into a set / block. For example, M12 has a lot of bloodthirst creatures in it. Red and black, the two colors with the highest concentration of bloodthirst, have access to common-level "enablers" to make bloodthirst decks run smoother: Goblin Fireslinger and Tormented Soul. Mixing up M12 and M11 cards would make it more difficult to draft bloodthirst due to the lower probability of finding these cards (although you might be able to compensate with M11 cards like Lightning Bolt and Prodigal Pyromancer). It's not to say that you can't break up blocks, but ideally you should have a pretty good reason for doing so. In particular, watch for sets with "parastic" mechanics like Kamigawa's soulshift -- diluting the card pool with cards from another set will greatly weaken these cards, making for a wonky and unbalanced drafting environment.

As I said in this answer, I don't think absolute pack-for-pack correctness is super important in a DIY draft, because I don't like going into pack 2 knowing you're absolutely "cut off" from any more set 3 if you didn't draft them in pack 1.


When Using Throne room on a Throne room do you need two more action cards already in hand?

In Dominion, the general rule is that you have to do everything on a card in order before you can play another card.

This affects Throne Room in an odd way, because it means you have to do everything printed on the card Throne Room tells you to play, then do everything on that card again.

Thus, when you Throne Room a Throne Room, you play one card and resolve it twice, then play a second card and resolve it twice.

TL;DR Yes, you can play the Laboratory you drew with the Moat as the second Throne Room's second play.


Is an Enchantment Creature card an Enchantment card?

Yes, you can. Baleful Eidolon is an enchantment and a creature. Anything which targets or affects either of these permanent types can target or affect it.


Are Kaladesh cards still Standard legal?

Standard currently consists of the following sets

Kaladesh
Aether Revolt
Amonkhet
Hour of Devastation
Ixalan
Rivals of Ixalan

The next rotation will occur when the set after Core 2019 releases. At that time Kaladesh, Aether Revolt, Amonkhet and Hour of Devastation will rotate.


When you're assigning the damage that will be dealt by your Primeval Titan, you have to deal lethal damage to each blocking creature before you can deal any damage to the defending player. Normally, "lethal damage" means the defending creature's toughness minus whatever other damage it's already taken that turn. But if the creature dealing the damage (here, your Titan) has deathtouch, "lethal damage" is 1. Period. So your Titan has to deal 1 damage to your opponent's Titan. The rest (5) can then be assigned to the defending player. (It doesn't have to, though - you can still assign any amount of damage to your opponent's Titan if you want to.)


Does a Monster have to survive an attack to yield Tokyo?

When a monster is eliminated while inside Tokyo, they do not yield. Look at the exact phrasing:

  If you are eliminated by an attack on Tokyo, the Monster who attacked
  you automatically takes control of Tokyo.

The rules say "takes control of", not "is yielded," so no yielding happens and the extra damage from Burrowing doesn't occur. Thematically, this makes sense: the monster is dead, and its ability to burrow doesn't help. You aren't yielding to the attacking monster; you're yielding to the sweet embrace of death. (Death takes one damage.)


Does Abandoned Sarcophagus exile Rebuild if I cast it?

Rebuild will go to the graveyard, not exile, because the Abandoned Sarcophagus has already been returned to your hand.
The most important thing to note here is that Abandoned Sarcophagus's second ability is a replacement effect. You can tell because it uses the word "instead" [CR 614.1a]. This means that it applies at the time that the event it replaces occurs. In this case, that event is Rebuild going to the graveyard. By the time Rebuild finishes resolving and goes to the graveyard, it has already returned Abandoned Sarcophagus to your hand, so that replacement effect no longer exists and it no longer moves the Rebuild to exile.


Can I decide not to use all the power of a plant in Power Grid?

Sure - see page 5 of the rulebook, in the "Earning Cash" paragraph of the Phase 5: Bureaucracy  section:

  Earning cash: Starting with the first player, every player indicates
  how many cities in his network he wishes (and is able) to supply with
  electricity. He earns cash based on  the number of cities he powers as
  shown on the payment table. A player who does not supply any city gets
  10 Elektro (the guaranteed minimum). The players remove the  required
  resources from the power plants that produced electricity this round
  and place the used resources in the resource supply next to the board.
  A player may choose  (or only be able) to supply fewer cities than he
  has in his network. The player is paid only for the supplied cities.
  If a player produces more electricity than he has cities in his
  network, the surplus is wasted. Every player can choose how many and
  which of his power plants he uses, e.g. he does not have to supply all
  of his cities.

So you can very much power 6 cities with enough electricity for 10.  You just won't be able to store the extra electricity produced for future use (or save yourself any of the resources that it cost you to produce so much electricity).

See also the line "a player may choose to supply fewer cities than he has in his network. The player is paid only for the supplied cities."  It seems pretty clear to me that you can undersupply your cities if you want, strange though such a course of action might seem!


Is it permissible to intentionally make an illegal move in order to bluff?

No, you are not allowed to do this because doing so would be a violation of tournament rules at every level.
At Competitive and Professional REL, the Infraction Procedure Guide determines how judges handle rules violations. The action described in the question is a Game Rule Violation, a sort of catch-all category that includes making invalid attack or block declarations. In addition, this action is dangerously close to Cheating as defined there:

A person breaks a rule defined by the tournament documents, lies to a Tournament Official, or notices an offense committed in their (or a teammate’s) match and does not call attention to it.
Additionally, the offense must meet the following criteria for it to be considered Cheating:

The player must be attempting to gain advantage from their action.
The player must be aware that they are doing something illegal.

The action described involves knowingly breaking a game rule for the purpose of gaining an advantage.

At Regular REL, the Judging at Regular REL document reigns. In that document, the "Serious Problems" section lists the following:

Knowingly breaking or letting an opponent break game or tournament rules, or lying, in order to gain an advantage. “Bluffing” about cards opponents can’t normally see is permitted.

If Bob instead tries to declare the block and then takes it back all within a single action, it's no longer reasonable to interpret it as an illegal action. Instead, he's just thinking out loud through the applicable requirements and restrictions that determine blocking legality. So the rest of the wouldn't apply and it should be fine for Bob to do that.


How do I tell potential game designers their ideas are bad?

As a game designer, I know I want the truth from people I show the game to.

I also know that most people just don't give critical feedback. By "critical," I mean a skilled judgment or analysis, as in "critical thinking." I've been involved in enough creative endeavors to know that most think only as far as, "I liked that," or, "That sucked." I've shown short films to an audience, watched them laugh uproariously, and then say, "It was OK," when asked if they liked it. So I've learned to take feedback for what it is, and not to hang too much of my own self-worth on it. I don't know if your game designers have grown the requisite thick skin or not.

But this combination of factors makes me able to give you advice about giving feedback - good or bad. I know it seems easier to say, "That was fun!" but both kinds of feedback should follow the same rules.

When someone asks you to test a game, if you don't want to put the effort in to provide decent feedback, just politely decline.

If you decide to accept, you now have a responsibility to think about the game and what you like and don't like about it. Instead of just a blanket, "This rocks!" or, "That was awful," you owe the designer the courtesy of considering the question, "Why?" And then you can give the designer the answer to that question.

For instance, I have an RPG in playtest right now, and something like, "I felt like it was too hard to succeed - even things my character was good at seemed out of reach," is good feedback. It gives me something to look at, or even questions to ask the playtester. And I would rather have critical negative feedback than thoughtless positive feedback.


All information in the traitor's tome is for the traitor's eyes only. Generally, this includes monster stats as well. If the heroes are allowed to know it; then it would be written in their scenario rules as well.

However, because die rolls need to be made publicly; the first time a monster actually uses one of its stats; the heroes will find out what value that stat is. Though many scenarios have the monsters change stats based on number of turns or some other value; in which case the heroes will only know the monster's current stat; not what it might become later.

From the official FAQ:

  When do the heroes find out the traits of a monster?

    When the monster has to roll dice for a trait. All dice rolls are open.

Also:

  How much do you have to reveal about what you are doing to the other side?

    You should announce the purpose of any action you are taking to the other side -- for instance, "I
    am making an exorcism roll now," or "This roll is to see whether the house blows up." You don't
    need to reveal what number you need to roll.

Also see this question dealing with when you are allowed to know whether or not a monster actually has a particular stat.


Who gets to "search target player's graveyard, hand, and library?"

Yes, when a spell has an instruction, it is instructing its controller to take that action. According to rule 608.2c, the third step of resolving a spell or ability is

  The controller of the spell or ability follows its instructions in the order written.

That does mean that when you cast those spells, you can look through your opponent's hand and library.

Imagine if the spell was instead instructing that player to search their own hand and library. How would you verify that they had found all copies of the named card?


Whats a good way to handle multiple players bidding when playing by email?

Well in a normal (at the board) game, you will find that the person who starts the bidding has the advantage, because the following players need to beat, rather than equal the first player's bid.

So, one option you have (and the one I would use) is a blind auction, where if there is a tie, then the order of bidding is the person who wins. Obviously, the way you do a blind auction is difficult over email as you cannot prevent the other person or persons from seeing your bid, unless you do one of two things

Have a 'referee' for want of a better word, who collects the bids until all are received and email the results once collected.
Have a player (possibly the final player in the bid order) act as the referee, who cannot bid themselves, but collects all blind bids.

However, I would suggest looking for one of the online board game sites that allow you to play turn-by-turn. There are a few that do this (I believe there are already questions on this topic), but I am not sure if there is one for this game.


Roughly 15x16" for the base game.

roughly 15x20" for the 5-6p expansion.

About 17x28" for framed base game with C&K, and another 3.125" for 5-6p.

Seafarers can be considerably larger... up to 24x36"

I've not bothered with Traders and Barbarians, so I cannot speak to it.

Note that the travel version (which is base game only) fits nicely on an airline tray table.


Tactics to fight or deter Diplomatic races in 2 player games

As @bwarner commented, I'd say abandon all regions and start invading from the maps borders

From the rules (emphasis mine):

  If a player wishes to free up some more Race tokens, he may opt to entirely empty up some - or all - Regions, leaving no Tokens there; but in this case, these now abandoned Regions will no longer be considered his, nor bring him any Victory coins. If the player chooses to abandon all the Regions he previously occupied, his next conquest must follow the same rules as its First Conquest (see First Conquest, p. 4).


Can Debt tokens be taken to pay any coin costs?

You may only take Debt tokens if a card with the Debt icon would cause a loss of coins for you.

So you may not decide to take Debt tokens instead of paying for a building (or for anything else).

Source

The rules for the Cities expansion explain the Debt mechanic on page 4. The first paragraph starts with "A card with the [Debt icon] symbol", and no other condition is mentioned.

The FAQ (also linked from the answer linked above) contains this Q & A:

  Q: Can a player chooses to gain debt tokens?
  A: No, only the black cards with this symbol [Debt icon] can cause players to incur debts.


What does the game consider being the same instance of a card?

You can not return the exiled cards once the Synod Sanctum that exiled them has left the battlefield.

When a card refers to itself by name it is referring only to that object, and not other objects with the same name. As stated in the Comprehensive Rules:

  201.4.: Text that refers to the object it’s on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.

When a permanent leaves the battlefield it ceases to be the same object and the game "forgets" the linked cards. There are a couple exceptions (400.7a-f) but Synod Sanctum is not one of them.

  400.7.: An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.

Keep in mind this means that if the Synod Sanctum changes zones for any reason (it gets returned to your hand or even flickered with a Ghostly Flicker type effect) it will be treated as a new object and your exiled cards will no longer be reachable.


Doubts with the "before a base scores" part

Yes, you can use any number of special cards as long as they are relevant. However, some cards have their own limitations on this (e.g. you can only use one Shinobi per base). Any effects those specials generate trigger immediately. However, any extra plays must be used immediately (you can't save them to see what other people do).
The 5-power Zombie Lord says, "You may play an extra minion of power 2 or less from your discard pile on each base where you have no minions." If you use Hidden Ninja to play the Zombie Lord, you may use its ability. However, this won't typically have a huge immediate impact on the scoring, as you have to play on bases where you don't have minions, and you already have the Zombie Lord on the scoring base.
This is covered in the most recent rules for Pretty Pretty Smash Up, page 7:

When a base has been chosen to score, each player first gets to use any Special abilities that happen “before” the base scores.
If more than one player wants to use a Special ability, start with the current player and go around the table clockwise until all players pass in sequence (if you pass and another player uses a Special, you can then still choose to use a Special of your own). If your Special allows you to play extra cards, you must play those immediately or not at all.


Bang! Calamity Janet and the High Noon Expansion

According to the creator of Bang! (Emiliano Sciarra) on BoardGameGeek:

  Actually, during the Sermon you cannot use Bang! cards during your turn only: it is allowed to use Bang! cards outside your turn. It follows that if you play a Duel, your opponent may answer with his Bang! while you can not, and so you will lose the Duel!
  As regards Calamity Janet, the general rule of thumb is that her Missed! cards are considered as if they were Bang! cards, so during the Sermon she cannot use Missed! cards as Bang! cards.


Does "Max 1 per conflict" mean per player, or in total?

As per the Rules Reference, page 10 (which is much more detailed than the rules delivered with the box):

  All limits are player specific.

Which means that yes, if my opponent plays Court Games, so can I during the same conflict.


Do we really need to leave materials below the completed structure?

In the base game there is no building that interact with the materials, so, in this case, the answer is yes, you can remove them from the game safely.

But in "Glory to Rome Promo Cards" set you have three buildings that do interact with the materials. Castra Praetoria, Solarium and Watch Post. For the first two cards the kind of interaction is not important here, they move materials upon building completion, after that you do that you could still remove from the game the rest of materials. But Watch Post states : you may use a CRAFTSMAN action to tear down one of you completed buildings. Add foundation to your hand and materials to your stockpile.
So if you are playing with that card the answer is no, you cannot remove them from the game safely.

(I hope that my answer is understandable ... I am not english native speaker)


How to speed up a game of Empire Builder?

One dis-recommendation: don't lower the amount of money for the win condition.  The game advances through phases from initial building (limited range) to networking to running those few big deals that are finally possible late in the game.  By reducing the win condition you'd be cutting out that last phase and that can be a lot of fun.

Tested recommendations:

Setup: alphabetize the goods if you haven't already so "banking" is fast.  This is huge, as otherwise looking through a bunch of different goods with tiny pictures is a pain.
Check BoardGameGeek for player aids.  It can be hard to study the map to plan your move without getting in the way of the active player, but a copy of the map can help (not so much with detailed track planning, but with "where the heck is $city on this map?" planning.  Granted that should be less of a problem on a map of one's own country, but it still helps.)  Similarly, make sure everybody has the "where does this good come from?" card for planning.
Increase starting money by 20 and add one more round of initial building.  I've tried this a few times with Iron Dragon with experienced players.  The effect was to increase the value of those first early runs, thus jump-starting track building.  It didn't make a huge difference in elapsed time (maybe 10%), but it did cut down on the early feelings of angst and futility that can come with unfortunate cards.)

Untested ideas:

Allow each player some small number of "I hate this card" redraws, without the cost of a full-round flush.  I would limit this to the early stages of the game -- maybe up to three uses while your money remains under 100.  The idea is to soften those "aw, crap, I guess I could go there for 10" runs that don't really help you except to flush the card.
If time is being lost because inexperienced players can't plan their turns in advance, consider some scheme for parallel turns.  Play is largely non-interactive, after all.  Maybe a player and the one opposite him at the table can go at the same time so long as they aren't competing for the same pip, goods token, etc?  (If so, turn order wins.)

I don't think any of these would damage the spirit of the game, unlike, say, removing some calamities from the deck would.


How do you awaken the Ancient One by opening the gate of Kadath?

It's talking about this encounter:

Unknown Kadath
In response to your pitiful knocking, the massive gate of the Castle of the Great Old Ones swings wide. Lose 1 Stamina and 1 Sanity. If you are devoured as a result, the Ancient One immediately awakens.

It's a literal physical gate in the encounter, not a gate like the ones that open normally during the game. And for some reason you decide to knock on it. Pretty hard to awaken the Ancient One that way - you have to manage to get that encounter and already be at 1 Stamina and 1 Sanity.


In Troyes, how do use Chivalry and Joust as part of a VP engine?

Chivalry by itself is difficult to be a good VP engine. Its strength lies in that you can distribute the cubes anywhere so it can help you gain fight events regardless of the typical dice color. As you noted in your question, the challenge with Chivalry is that it it gives you a cube for each red die you have left after the cost is paid. Since you typically lose 2 to 3 red dice just battling events, it can be hard to effectively defeat events this way.

As the previous answer suggested, this can give you some good end game points if you spread out the cubes and get the 1 VP credit for having a cube per event card at the end of the game.

Where I've seen Chivalry used extremely effectively is with the Captain which gives you that same bonus when activated. If you have a good number of cubes spread out on event cards and activate the Captain multiple times you can have a powerful VP engine.

Joust took me a bit to fully understand, but this one can be a very good source of VPs. The key to remember is that you don't need to have the highest # of red dice (after you've paid to activate it), but instead the highest total of pips on the red dice you have left. This means that if there are 2 red dice left and you have one that has only 1 pip and an opponent has one that has 3 or more pips, you can buy that die from them and activate Joust and score your VPs. Also b/c it only costs 3 to activate, this is one that you can activate multiple times fairly easy.

One last thing to consider is the VPs you get for being first or second to purchase. Chivalry only pays 2 for the 1st player and 1 for the 2nd player. Joust pays 3 for the 1st and 2 for the 2nd. So if Joust first position is available and you can get the dice to make it work, I'd strongly consider it.


What's the best strategy for winning while using all 3 stations in Ticket to Ride Europe?

Play with 2 or 4 bots. You'll be needing stations more with more competition for routes. Why 2? because you don't get the second half of the doubles without 4 players total. This means that to win, you'll more likely need to make more connections through occupied chunks.

If winning cleanly, grab some tickets, and take one or two that you can connect by dropping a station.


Star Realms: scrapping a card in your hand

Your interpretation is incorrect. You cannot use the actions of a card that you scrap.

The rules state that during the main phase, players may perform the following actions in any order (among other actions):

  Play cards from your hand
  Use the Primary Abilities of in-play Bases

So the answer to your second question is that you can use the Brain World in whatever order you want during the main phase.

The rules go on to state

  When a Ship is played, its Primary Ability triggers immediately.

That is to say, you must decide to play a card from your hand in order to gain the benefit of the primary ability.

Under "Playing Cards" they say that to play a card,

  place it "in-play" (face-up on the table in front of you).

Later, in the Discard Phase,

  Put all in play Ships into your Discard Pile.
  Put any cards left in your hand into your Discard Pile.

These quotes together make it clear that an "in-play" card is not in your hand, nor your discard pile. This demonstrates that using a Primary Ability and being scrapped by the Brain World are mutually exclusive (at least without some special ability to move cards from in-play to your hand or discard pile).


Fluxx - When should I carry out actions / use keepers?

You always draw cards before playing cards.

EDIT:

The general turn outline is:

Draw cards (in following the current draw rule)
Play cards (in following the current play rule)
Discard cards (to follow the 'card limit' rule, if applicable)


What has been the popularity trend for D&D Miniatures?

The last expansion for the game was Lords of Madness in 2010. The release of the Dragon Collector's Set this December -— a 5-figure fixed set -- suggests that the future of the line will be in the arena of figures to assist the play of the Dungeons & Dragons RPG. This evidence supports the idea that the "popularity trend" for this game is declining, if not moribund. However, Wizards of the Coast has announced that, in 2012, a new miniatures-based skirmish game will rise to replace it.


Fury of Dracula 3rd ed. - Fangs point scoring

Fantasy Flight clarified this:

  The 1 influence point only occurs when it is night and the engaged hunter is mesmerized.

source: https://boardgamegeek.com/article/21076368#21076368


It is called Pyramidis (at least the dutch version). I found one last year in a thrift store. Fun little game.
To move, take a stack of pyramids of which the top color is yours and put these one by one in the next few spots, covering other pyramids. You need to get five of your eigh pyramids into your start area. Or (which is the harder option) cover all other users pyramids so they can't move and lose the game.

Useless trivia, the game Ramses II uses the same pyramids.


How to shorten Puerto Rico to fit one hour?

We have played 2-3 times a month for a long time.

Of course games are shorter with fewer people and go faster when everyone is well acquainted with the game.  We have played normal extended version games in about an hour with 3 people.

We recently added a column of property spaces on each town to extend play - you could remove a column to shorten play.

You can deal out some random plantations at the start to accelerate play (like a bunch of Hacienda plays.)  You may give everyone a quarry to accelerate play.  You may add squares to the trading center or to the ships to accelerate play. You may add 2 coins jnstead of one to unused roles. Note that any of these steps will alter the playing strategies from a normal game.

Cheers.


I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but the name is correct. Here is Mangala game available on the AppStore. I haven't played it, so I can't confirm that it's using Turkish variant of the rules rather than the most popular one from Mancala.

I guess we have to wait until you introduce a playable game of Mangala! :) Of course if that's what your project is about.

You could specify in your question (list) what rules are important to you to be included in the version you're looking for. Take a look here, maybe one of those games is similar enough.


I found a basic answer on my question over here:

  Try to go out waiting for multiple
  tiles (not just one). Imagine that you
  have three complete sets and two
  pairs. Imagine that one pair is 2
  Bams, and you draw a 3 Bam from the
  wall -- which tile do you discard now?
  In this situation, many experienced
  players will discard a 2 Bam, keeping
  2-3. A two-way incomplete chow call is
  better than a two-pair call.

  Learn to
  shape the hand into calling patterns
  that give you multiple chances to win,
  such as the following:

Tiles in hand     Call for

2223              134
2224              34
2223344           2345
2223334           2345
2223456           14736
22234 RR          25 R
23456             147**
34567             258**
45678             369**

  Highly skilled players of
  un-American mah-jongg (since American
  style alone does not use "chows") know
  these patterns by heart. More complex
  call shapes are mostly extensions of
  these. Although the American game does
  not use chows, the strategy of having
  a multiple-tile call still applies to
  that game as well.

  Of special interest
  is the complexity of the pure hand. If
  you're working on a pure hand, it can
  often be difficult to tell what all
  the tiles are that can complete the
  hand. For instance:
  1-2-3-4-5-5-5-6-6-6-7-8-9 (5 chances);
  1-2-3-4-5-5-5-5-6-6--7-8-9 (5
  chances); 2-3-4-4-4-5-5-5-6-6-6-7-8 (7
  chances); and of course
  1-1-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-9-9 (9 chances).

Edit: Additional links with a lot more waits

http://saki.wikia.com/wiki/Mahjong_waits
http://saki.wikia.com/wiki/Complex_waits
http://www.reachmahjong.com/en/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=52599

Especially the latter is, from my beginner eyes, insanely exhaustive.


This Tile comes from Tzolk'in - the mini-expansion 1 a goodie from Spielbox magazine.

Here is how to use it:

  Bonus Starting Wealth - Cistern

  Your tribe has figured out how to draw water out of the surrounding
  soil and and store it in an underground cistern. The ecological impact
  of this feat of engineering harms the other tribes

  If you choose this Starting Wealth Tile, you get 10 corn. Each of your
  opponents starts with 1 less corn. (An opponent whose Starting Wealth
  Tiles provide no corn is not affected.)

  If you draw this tile when placing dummy workers, it indicates that
  you will play this game with one less dummy worker than usual (11
  instead of 12 in a two-player game or 5 instead of 6 in a three-player
  game).

  Help your culture grow and flourish, and the gods will smile upon you.

Note that this mini-expansion is also supposed to come with a monument tile: the Granary.


Eye of the Storm - can I still counter spells?

Yes, countering a spell will prevent Eye of the Storm from "absorbing" it, but it won't stop the spell's owner from casting copies of the cards previously exiled by EotS.

"Play" was replaced with clearer terminology 7 years ago. The current text of the card (as you can see at the link you posted) is the following:

  Whenever a player casts an instant or sorcery card, exile it. Then that player copies each instant or sorcery card exiled with Eye of the Storm. For each copy, the player may cast the copy without paying its mana cost.

So Eye of the Storm's ability triggers before you have to a chance to counter the spell. But you get priority before it resolves, meaning you get to cast instants and such while Eye of the Storm's ability is still on the stack.

Countering Shock will move it to the graveyard, causing the object on the stack to cease to exist. When Eye of the Storm eventually resolves, it will be unable to locate the card to exile it[CR 400.7]. Since EotS wasn't able to exile the card, it doesn't count as an "instant or sorcery card exiled with Eye of the Storm".

Note that even though EotS's ability can't find Shock, the ability wasn't countered (since it doesn't target), so  it still finishes resolving (by doing as much as it can). Thus, the player who cast Shock will still get to cast copies of earlier spells exiled by EotS (which includes Counterspell in the presented scenario).

  CR 400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule: [None of which matter here]


Not at all.

A quick Gatherer Search revealed at least 25 non-Green, fairly inexpensive basic land searchers (most $0.10 commons). Key cards of note:

The Panoramas: Example Bant Panorama, Naya Panorama
Terminal Moraine, Evolving Wilds, Terramorphic Expanse, Ghost Quarter, Oath of Lieges
Artifact Searchers - Armillary Sphere et. Al.
Basic Landcyclers

This is without even listing all the dual lands that are available. There is a thread on the Multiplayer Wizards forum that displays alternatives to the original duals for people on a budget. The top post of the thread breaks the dual/tri lands into categories, first by cost, then by cycle.

Finally, there are also artifacts that tap for any color, or three color(Obelisk of Esper, Obelisk of Naya), or cheap Signet cycle (Boros Signet,  Azorius Signet, et. al.).


Citadels: Does the crown switch hands if the king is killed?

The crown goes to the player that chose the King role card at the end of the round.
Fantasy Flight Rule book (page 14).

4) King
... If you are murdered, you skip your turn like any other character. Nevertheless, after the last player has played his turn, when it becomes known that you had the murdered King’s character card, you take the Crown (as the King’s heir).


Do you have to sacrifice a transformed creature put into play via Through the Breach?

Yes.

From the Comprehensive Rules:

  711.12. When a double-faced permanent transforms, it doesn’t become a new object. Any effects that applied to that permanent will continue
  to apply to it after it transforms. Example: An effect gives Village
  Ironsmith (the front face of a double-faced card) +2/+2 until end of
  turn and then Village Ironsmith transforms into Ironfang. Ironfang
  will continue to get +2/+2 until end of turn.


Does 'counter a spell' mean 'put a creature into its owner's graveyard'?

If a spell is on an actual card (e.g. creature, enchantment, instant, etc., usually played from your opponent's hand), then countering that spell means the spell never happens, and the card is moved to its owner's graveyard. (If the spell is not on a card, for instance it's a copy of another spell, then it just disappears.)

Yes, if there are two spells on the stack, Double Negative will allow you to counter both of them, which in a best case scenario means two of your opponents cards are moved to the graveyard, having no effect other than the mana they cost to cast. Note, however, that this will almost certainly require that at least one of them is an instant, as very few non-instant cards may be played while another spell is on the stack (those that do carry the keyword "Flash").

Also note that if your opponent (and you) lets one spell resolve before playing the second spell, then there never were two spells on the stack simultaneously for Double Negative to counter. So if your opponent played a creature, you both let that creature come into play, and he then plays, say, a Shock to deal to damage to you, you can't counter both the Shock and the creature. You lost the opportunity to counter the creature before the Shock was ever a spell.


Designing - How do you approach finding the right font for your game?

When I've put out games in the past, there have usually been two goals in font selection:

Fonts that are easy to read at the angle the player will be looking from.
Fonts that evoke the setting of the game.

For example, The Golden Wilderness is set in colonial California, so a typeface that was widely used in the 1700s helps evoke the setting.  There's basically nothing you need to read during the game that isn't upright and in your hand (and that you have plenty of time to read), so readability isn't the issue.

Leaving Earth, on the other hand, has many cards sitting all around the table that need to be understood by the players.  Readability helps the game play more smoothly, so a clean font that's easy to read from multiple angles is needed.

Which particular fonts meet these criteria for your game all depends on the specifics.

Acquiring those fonts is another matter.  There are plenty of free fonts out there, but don't be afraid to spend a little money on a good, professional font.  The best professional fonts are designed with an eye for many tiny details (like kerning and ligatures) that you (assuming you're not a typographer) shouldn't have to worry about.

If you're just using a font for a bit of flavor, things like kerning might not matter too much (though it pains a typography enthusiast like me to say it).  If you're using a font for your main title/logo, or for extended blocks of reading material, those small details matter much more.


Can the beetle start on top of the hive?

You can't. It has to be placed like all other pieces:

  NB When it is first placed, the Beetle is placed in the same way as all the other pieces. It cannot be placed directly on top of the hive, even though it can move there later.

From the bottom of page 5.


What happens with Lifelink when a creature's power exceeds its blocker's toughness?

You will gain 5 life in that case.  Creatures assign and deal damage equal to their power in combat and do not "Pull their punches" if the blocker happens to have lower toughness.

  510.1a Each attacking creature and each blocking creature assigns combat damage equal to its power. Creatures that would assign 0 or less damage this way don’t assign combat damage at all

  ...

  510.2. Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it’s dealt. This is a change from previous rules.

Assign equal to power.
Deal what was assigned.
Size of defender does not factor into it.


Munchkin - can you put cards which you cannot use sideways

This appears to be a standard part of the rules for Munchkin for Item type cards.;

All Items you have in play are considered “carried.” Items that are actually
giving you a bonus are “equipped.” You should indicate Items that are not
equipped by turning the cards sideways. You may not alter the status of your
Items during a combat or while running away

For rules for more specific expansions, the parent page of the link above is loaded.


Mille Bornes - What is the purpose of the chips?

This is still exists in the Dujardin Prestige edition.

Sold Here:
http://www.jeuxdujardin.fr/mille-bornes-prestige.html

Rules Here:
http://www.jeuxdujardin.fr/files/regles/mille-bornes-prestige-regles-du-jeu.pdf

In the section for Coup-Fourre:

  Note: pour se souvenir qu'on a fait un Coup-Fourre, on prend un jeton
  et on le pose devant soi.


How does Chains of Mephistopheles interact with Dredge

First, let's look at a flowchart explaining how Chains of Mephistopheles works.
Now, when you go to draw a card (other than the one that is a turn based action during your draw step) you have 2 replacement effects trying to replace that draw, the Chains and Dredge. You get to choose which one to apply first (616.1).

If you choose to apply Dredge first you can no longer apply the Chains since you are no longer drawing a card (614.6).
If you choose to apply the Chains effect first you can still Dredge as long as you would draw a card after discarding, if you mill (because you had no cards to discard) you cannot apply Dredge.

616.1. If two or more replacement and/or prevention effects are attempting to modify the way an event affects an object or player, the affected object’s controller (or its owner if it has no controller) or the affected player chooses one to apply, following the steps listed below. If two or more players have to make these choices at the same time, choices are made in APNAP order.
614.6. If an event is replaced, it never happens. A modified event occurs instead, which may in turn trigger abilities. Note that the modified event may contain instructions that can’t be carried out, in which case the impossible instruction is simply ignored.


The rulebook (Page 6) is actually quite clear on this:

SEA LANES & SEA ROUTES
Locations are connected to each other in the ocean by sea lanes.
Locations directly connected by a sea lane are adjacent.
A series of connected sea lanes is called a sea route.

Given this definition of a sea route, you can only charter a boat from and to a location where you can trace a continuous series of series of sea lanes. So your option 1 is the correct interpretation.


How do Pitiless Plunderer and Bontu's Last Reckoning interact with each other?

Yes.

Triggered abilities trigger once per event, and the trigger conditions defines the event.

"Whenever a creature dies" will trigger every time a creature dies.

Since Pitiless Plunderer is phrased similarly to this, it triggers twice.

"Whenever one or more creatures die" will trigger every time one or more creatures die simultaneously.

Since Pitiless Plunderer isn't phrased similarly to this, it doesn't trigger only once.


Did the first version of Ticket to Ride released in Europe have a USA map or a Europe map?

The German Wikipedia article is pretty clear on this.

Name              | Erscheinungsjahr   | Spielplan
                  | (Publication Year) | (Board Map)
--------------------------------------------------------
Zug um Zug        | 2004               | USA
Zug um Zug Europa | 2005               | Europa (Europe)

The first version to be released in Germany was the US board in 2004. This went on to win the prestigeous Spiel des Jahres (Game of the Year) award in the year 2004; awarded by a jury of critics.

A game is only eligible to win Spiel des Jahres in the year it was published in (unless it was published in the previous year after the list of nominees had been closed). And there has not been the case of a spin-off version winning Spiel des Jahres if the main one did not. In fact, while I don’t have sources it is very unlikely for spin-offs even to be considered, since they typically follow the same principle as the main game which would have been eligible earlier.

The Europe board was not released until the following year, 2005. The table at the bottom of the Wikipedia article indicates that.

Incidentally, the game did receive a minor rebranding in Germany by getting a new (German) name: Zug um Zug. In Scandinavia (specifically Finland, where I bought the Scandinavia version), the original name was kept.


Targeting instants with aftermath in a graveyard

Yes, any instant that can legally be cast, including aftermath or flashback instants in the graveyard, can be cast in response.
Yes, you target the card in graveyard once Dire Fleet Daredevil enters the battlefield, until it resolves you haven't exiled the card, and the opponent can respond with any legal play, including using the aftermath, which causes the Dire Fleet Daredevil ability to fizzle due to lack of targets.
Correct, the card needs to still be in the graveyard to be targeted by Dire Fleet Daredevil, once the card has moved to the stack, it is no longer in the zone that daredevil can target.
No differences between flashback and aftermath, or even retrace(You may cast this card from your graveyard by discarding a land card in addition to paying its other costs.)

BONUS: You actually can't use mind however with Dire Fleet Daredevil. The ruling on Dire Fleet is:

  The effect of Dire Fleet Daredevil doesn’t change when you can cast the exiled card. For example, if you exile a sorcery card, you can cast it only during your main phase when the stack is empty.

And the aftermath half of cards can only be cast from your graveyard, so it's illegal for you to cast from exile, you can however cast the Spring half, since you target the card with Dire Fleet, not half of the card.


Removing enchantments from hexproof creatures

The enchantment doesn't become hexproof.  It is only the creature that cannot be targeted by [an opponent's] spells and abilities.

So supposing that you have a spell that says "destroy target enchantment".  This spell can remove an enchantment that's on a hexproof creature.

But suppose that you had an (imaginary) spell that says "exile all Auras on target creature".  This would not have any effect on your Trollhide-toting Sacred Wolf, because it needs to target the creature, not the enchantments, and this time this is illegal.

EDIT: Since there's a bit of a mania for quoting the Comprehensive Rules at the moment, here's the section on hexproof:

  702.11b "Hexproof" on a permanent means "This permanent can't be the
  target of spells or abilities your opponents control."

That's all it means.  The hexproof doesn't confer any immunity from targeting on anything other than the permanent that has hexproof.


In bridge, are there different implications of overcalling 1NT in different positions?

Learn to evaluate this hand as being worth only 14 points, 14.5 at the very, very, most, and your bridge results will improve.

No 10's, no 9's, no 8's, not even any 7's. The opponents will kill you with these cards leading through any and all quacks held by you and your partner. Then they will lead these cards through your kings to kill those too. Minus 1 point.
Minus one point for 4333 distribution. Goren was the world's best bridge teacher for three decades for good reason. Read his books, and recognize that in Chapter one he always stated that the 3-2-1 distribution points are not ruffing values, but indicative of general hand strength from the shape.

Open aggressively in third seat, for the preemptive value against a strong hand in fourth seat. Open this hand 1S in 3rd seat, and teach partner the Drury convention in that situation.

Open passively in fourth seat, so still  open this hand 1S and again teach partner the Drury convention for this situation.

I don't care that you are playing five card majors.

Open 1spade anyways, and teach partner the Drury convention in this situation. Presumably you are asking here to learn better bridge. Learn to open strong 4-card spade suites in 3rd and 4th seat. This is part of becoming a better bridge player.

Don't open 14 point hands 1NT when playing 15-17HCP as your 1NT range.


What card types can't appear in your library?

Conspiracy, phenomenon, plane, scheme and vanguard.

300.1. The card types are artifact, conspiracy, creature, enchantment, instant, land, phenomenon, plane, planeswalker, scheme, sorcery, tribal, and vanguard.

313.1. Conspiracy cards are used only in limited play, particularly in the Conspiracy Draft variant (see rule 905). [...]
313.3. Conspiracy cards remain in the command zone throughout the game. [...]

310.1. Phenomenon is a card type seen only on nontraditional Magic cards. Only the Planechase casual variant uses phenomenon cards. See rule 901, “Planechase.”
310.2. Phenomenon cards remain in the command zone throughout the game [...]

309.1. Plane is a card type seen only on nontraditional Magic cards. Only the Planechase casual variant uses plane cards. See rule 901, “Planechase.”
309.2. Plane cards remain in the command zone throughout the game [...]

312.1. Scheme is a card type seen only on nontraditional Magic cards. Only the Archenemy casual variant uses scheme cards. See rule 904, “Archenemy.”
312.2. Scheme cards remain in the command zone throughout the game [...]

311.1. Vanguard is a card type seen only on nontraditional Magic cards. Only the Vanguard casual variant uses vanguard cards. See rule 902, “Vanguard.”
311.2. Vanguard cards remain in the command zone throughout the game. [...]


Does Complete Disregard check a creature's power or base power?

No, Complete Disregard won't work (and incidentally you can't target the Impostor, since it's not a legal target). Complete Disregard, like almost* all other cards simply cares about the actual power; the base power doesn't matter. Both buffs (+2/+0 from Cleaving Sliver and the +1/+1 counter) alone would be enough to raise the Impostor's power above 3, so that it ... wait for it ... completely disregards Complete Disregard.
*: the few cards for which this is not the case explicitly mention 'base power' and/or 'base toughness' (example), and as @murgatroid99 notes, they all change the base power/toughness, they do not check it.


Why can't an overloaded Counterflux beat Pyromancer Ascension?

Counterflux works against a singleton Pyromancer Ascension. With multiple active Ascensions, the copied spells don't go on the stack all at once, so Counterflux can't hit all of them.

I found the answer in the comments section of that article:

  Play echoing truth target something, both ascensions trigger.
  First ascension trigger resolves, puts an echoing truth copy on top of the stack, so this copy will resolve before the other ascension trigger resolves.

So to show the stack, since it's hard to think about from the wording:

First, cast Echoing Truth. Both Pyromancer Ascensions trigger.

Stack:

PA#1 trigger
PA#2 trigger
Echoing Truth

PA#1 trigger resolves. Stack is now:

Echoing Truth Copy
PA#2 trigger
Echoing Truth

If you cast Counterflux with overload now, it will counter the two spells, but NOT the trigger, because it doesn't counter abilities. So after it resolves, the PA#2 trigger will resolve and create another copy of Echoing Truth. And if you wait until PA#2 trigger resolves, the first Echoing Truth copy has already resolved. No matter what you do, one Echoing Truth will get through.


You have a few different misunderstandings about the basics of abilities.

Goblin Razerunners has 2 separate abilities on it. The first is an activated ability, and the second is a triggered abilitiy.

Activated abilities are worded {cost}: {effect}. Triggered abilities are worded starting with When/Whenever/At {condition}. They automatically happen when the condition happens.

An activated ability can be activated as many times as you would like, so long as you can afford to pay the activation cost. (Sometimes an ability will specifically limit this, by saying "activate this ability only once each turn", or other restrictions). So if you can afford to pay 2 mana and sacrifice a land multiple times, then you can activate Goblin Razerunners first ability multiple times. You can even do it repeatedly on the same turn. Each time you do, it will get another +1/+1 counter.

At the beginning of your end step (at the end of each of your turns), the Golbin's second ability will trigger. When that ability resolves, it will give you the option to deal damage based on the number of +1/+1 counters it has. It doesn't matter how it got these +1/+1 counters; whether it was from the first ability, or any other way (Inspiring Roar).

To answer your specific questions:

Counters never go away unless something specifically makes them go away. So Goblin Razerunners will keep the +1/+1 counter after this turn.
Unless stated otherwise, an ability can be activated any number of times, as long as you can afford it. So you can activate its ability as many times as you can afford and want to, giving it any number of +1/+1 counters. If you can get 10 mana and want to sacrifice 5 lands, you could give it 5 +1/+1 counters, all in the same turn, or across multiple turns.
Goblin Razerunners' second ability is a triggered ability that will automatically trigger at the beginning of each of your end steps. You don't choose to activate it, though when the triggered ability resolves, you can choose whether or not to have it deal damage, because it says "may".


In Gin-Rummy, what are the chances to make Gin on the first turn?

I modified that program by Andrew Inwood to count them (including all the three-of-a-kinds, still), and it finds 5,379,372 11-card hands that contain a 10-card gin hand.
Out of C(52,11) hands, that makes the odds about 1 in 11,228 or 0.00891%


Can anyone help my identify this card game

The card game Pit had a version that was released under the name "Billionaire" circa 1984, which is where your card comes from. This image contains the full set of cards including the one you showed.


How to count non fully walled territory?

This isn't really a finished game.  If both players passed, then all of the points around E13 would count as dame just like the ones around H8, and wouldn't be territory for Black.  This wouldn't happen in a serious game, so in a beginners' game, you would notice the problem during the scoring and probably just fix it.


No, in these cases you are welcome to choose the "discard 3 cards" option and merrily not do anything.

These effects of Crises are not really COSTS per se - in most games costs are non-optional, so your reasoning about being forced to do the other choice makes some sense if you think of these as costs.

But they really aren't costs, they're just the effects of that Crisis, and you're welcome to choose the one that impacts you the least, and execute as much of it as you're able to.


Lich + Laboratory maniac, replacement effects order

You will lose.

As the Offering is resolving you follow the instructions in order, thus first you destroy the Lich, then you gain life. Since Lich is no longer on the battlefield its replacement effect doesn't apply so you will not draw cards instead of gaining life. Then once the Offering is done resolving the Lich's leaves the battlefield trigger will go on the stack and you will lose the game when it resolves.

  608.2c The controller of the spell or ability follows its instructions in the order written. However, replacement effects may modify these actions.


Can you tell if one board is balanced or not compared to the others?

You probably could produce a mathematical formula taking into account the different factors that obtain you points based on your wonder. It would be long and arduous to figure out, especially considering all the different ways you can approach winning the game.

I think it's important to remember that a key component of Game Design is iteration. The designers will have played the game and redesigned it so many times during development that how the wonders originally looked is totally different to how they are now. Only through actual play can you truely determine how "balanced" a certain part of the game is. Sure you can use maths, but with so many different variables to take into account the level of work involved to get to some formula that calculates power compared to another wonder just doesn't seem worth it.

If you find some wonder out the fan pack is too overpowered, you can always erata it yourself to make it more balanced. I've done this with games before a lot. You create house "rules" or edits that help to improve the gameplay for everyone involved. It's like how in Monopoly you have free parking reward you. It's not an original mechanic, but something other people came up with as a catch up mechanic.


I was the first to lose in a commander game, does Vorinclex ability still happen?

The lands would not untap during their controller's untap step. This is a continuous effect on the land created by the resolution of an effect, and the rules relating to what effects end when a player leaves the game, notably 800.4j, imply that continuous effects created as part of the resolution of a spell or ability continue to apply, even if that player is no longer in the game. There's no rule stating that continuous effects with any timing other than "until your next [turn/phase]" should end, therefore if they're on legal permanents they would continue.

For future reference, however, if the effect where to kill you while the Vorinclex triggers were still on the stack, e.g. from a Lightning Bolt, the Vorinclex triggers would be exiled as you left the game from having 0 life, so they would NOT affect the lands.


Can I voluntarily fail the roll for the Collapsed Room?

No, not in this situation.

You don't roll when entering a previously-discovered Collapsed Room. From page 6 of the rules,

  Only the explorer who first discovers the Collapsed Room needs
  to make the Speed roll listed there. Thereafter, any explorer
  entering the room can either ignore the room ability or use it
  intentionally, in which case that explorer still takes the damage.
  Falling to the basement doesn’t count as moving a space.

In this situation, however, your character wouldn't choose to jump down. They do not want to get further away. They are compelled to reach the room as fast as possible.

Gendolkari's answer makes no sense. They say one can choose to fail the roll, but then follows up with the rule saying one doesn't even get a roll.


The Oregon Trail Card Game: can I talk about my supply cards?

In the SAMPLE PLAY section it says:

  Bob says, "I have a Clothes Card I can spare for you."

This hints that you can share information about what cards you have before you play them. Frankly I don't see how it is winnable without some supply card teamwork.


Does the Void's power cancel out the Spiff's?

The ship is destroyed. Both abilities are trying to interact with ships that would be going to the void. The FAQ for the Fantasy Flight version (the most recent to date),  indicates that Void trumps all other abilities.

Q: Is there an official ruling on Zombie vs Void?
A: Void trumps Zombie. Zombie's power kicks in when it should go to the warp, however the intent for Void is that it never sends its opponents to the warp at all.

This ruling is not at all obvious when you consider the text on the various cards, and their updated errata. (from the CE Cosmodex)

Spiff - Receives Colony as Loser (G) You have the power to Crash Land. As the offense, if both players revealed attack cards and {your total was 10 or more less than the defense's} you lost the encounter by 10 or more, you may use this power to land one of your ships that would otherwise be lost to the warp on the winning planet. {The ship coexists with the ships already there. This power does not allow you to coexist in places or with aliens that state otherwise.}
Void - Eradicates Opponents' Ships (R) You have the power to Eradicate. As a main player, when you win an encounter, use this power to remove the losing side's ships from the game rather than sending them to the warp. This occurs before any other game effects that affect ships headed to the warp. A player cannot be reduced to fewer ships than the number of foreign colonies needed to win the game. Any eradicated ships that would reduce a player below this number are sent to the warp as usual.


Are there restrictions on pawn promotion if two pawns are on the same column?

Your friend was wrong.  There is no rule preventing a pawn from being promoted outside the normal move restriction rules (e.g. you can't leave your king in check).


I open 1C -- Partner: 1D -- I bid 1S -- Partner bids 2NT - What 2NT means (System: Simple SAYC)

In this context 2NT is an invitation to game. Your partner probably has around 11-12 points, so he doesn't know if you have enough points between you to make 3NT (you haven't bid anything that shows more points than the bare minimum needed to open).

As your hand is pretty weak you should pass. If you had 14 or more points then you would bid 3NT.


How to kill the red army (Moloch) in Neuroshima-Hex

Please take a look at following topics on bgg:

Strategies to defeat Moloch?

  Occupy hexes where Moloch would want to place his shooters. You don't even need useful fighter there: sacrificing your module to
  occupy that nice spot behind Moloch HQ is perfectly reasonable. This
  will not only save you at least 2 hp, but also make Moloch place his
  good units in bad positions. Always keep best places shut from the
  enemy (this applies to fighting every other army as well, they just
  favor other positions).
  Continuing previous tip, place some fast (3-initiative at least) guys nearby, but not adjacent to Moloch HQ, and target Moloch shooter
  spots. Moloch will have to waste turns neutralizing your units before
  he can safely attack you.
  If Moloch HQ is in the center, place a shooter directly behind HQ, but in the corner. It will kill shooters and, if there are none,
  damage HQ.
  Use meat shields. Put your units between your HQ and Moloch shooters. Sometimes deflecting 2 damage is best use for a unit.
  Move. It isn't easy for Moloch to adjust it's aim since it doesn't have many Move tiles. If Moloch HQ is in the corner, you'll probably
  have plenty blind spots where HQ-enhanced shooters won't reach you.
  Play Battle carefully. After each battle you will lose your shielding units, and your HQ and important guys will be unprotected.
  On the other hand, each time you don't play Battle, you risk losing
  your perfect setup to bomb.

Strategy principles - pay attention especially to weaknesses of Moloch. Get advantage of them. And yes, you are correct, speed is the greatest one of them.

  Units to watch for: Bomb, Net Fighter, Push, Cyborg, Hunter Killer
  Storm Trooper

For example, try to make Moloch player initiate a battle (or generally, to play offensively):

  Never, never, never initiate a battle as Moloch. Never. You will only
  get the pieces around your HQ killed on your turn, and your opponent
  can then fill them. Let them battle, and then refill them yourself.

Can Neojungle beat a competent Moloch player?

  Against Moloch its best to place the NeoJungle HQ in the middle, you
  can use the HQ's ability without the need of building long supply
  chains. Put as many units as you can adjacent to Moloch's HQ to
  prevent its bunkering, also to make the most use of your castling, and
  as long as the airstrike is in the deck, scatter your units, mix it
  with Moloch's. You have three netters; place them on the borders to
  make the airstrike equally bad for your opponent. Use the two
  Nightshades against the HQ, don't waste it on units. If nothing else,
  there are plenty of Slicers, buffed up they can do plenty of damage.

Handling Air Strike:

  FlameBird: I still don't think you can do much against the Air Strike; simply targeting your HQ will always get some good stuff destroyed.

  Midaga: I think you have to learn to stop worrying and love the bomb. There's
  only one nuke in there, you can anticipate it, it's bad for Moloch
  too, it creates room on the board for you, you should wish for it.
  Also, you have the Small Bomb, which is much more useful, as its
  precision strike lets you do relatively more damage.

Best Counter-Armies - one of the users suggest playing Outpost against Moloch. Here you can read some advice for playing Outpost army.

  Versus Moloch, Outpost's HQ can dance to dodge Moloch's augmented
  ranged shots, while Moloch sits still for Outpost's repeated ranged
  shots. As long as Moloch's nuke remains unplayed, Outpost can use move
  and battle tiles liberally, to keep unit density low; that's Outpost's
  normal game plan anyway.

And this one on Neuroshima Hex! Strategy Blog:

Moloch: Defeating

  If you have ranged units, try using them to attack Moloch’s base from
  a different direction then your base. Doing this will ensure that
  Moloch cannot both address this unit and attack your base at the same
  time. Also, if the Moloch use a soldier to attack this unit, odds are
  they will never get a move to turn that soldier onto your base.
  Remember that moving away from Moloch units will likely make that unit
  kind of worthless. Also remember that pushing Moloch units can
  accomplish the same thing. Avoid clustering your units if possible.
  They have a freakin’ airstrike. Never just leave the Gauss gun pointed
  on your base. Address it.


Can Android: Netrunner be played with more than two people?

I do not believe that there is an official 4 player variant for Android Netrunner, however the "Big Sell Out" variant from the original Netrunner has been reimplemented, unofficially:
http://anr.phtn.de/formats/ANR_BigSellOut.pdf

A bit of discussion can be found in this thread.