How to Prepare a Mare for Foaling
If you have a mare who's getting ready to foal, provide her with a clean, safe space to give birth. If you would prefer for her to foal indoors, clean a stall that's at least 12 sq ft, although a larger stall is better. Check for any areas that could pose a danger to a young foal, such as protruding hooks or nails, and disinfect the stall with a mild antiseptic. If you'd prefer for your mare to give birth outdoors, use snow fencing to close off a 16 sq ft section of flat, grassy pasture that hasn't been used for at least 6 months.
Prepare a large, clean birthing stall if you want the mare to foal indoors. Choose a stall that's at least 12 ft × 12 ft (3.7 m × 3.7 m), although a 14 ft × 14 ft (4.3 m × 4.3 m) or larger stall is better, since you'll have more room to move around if you need to assist the mare. As you're setting up the stall, check for any hazards that could be a danger to a new foal, like protruding nails, splinters, hooks, or cracks in the flooring. If you're not sure what disinfectant to use, ask your veterinarian to recommend one. If you live somewhere with cold winters, or if you prefer an environment you can sanitize thoroughly, an indoor stall is ideal. Disinfect the birthing stall thoroughly if you're using one. To prepare the stall, take everything out, including the bedding, and disinfect the entire stall with a mild antiseptic, like 2% chlorhexidine or a 10% bleach solution. When you're finished, rinse away the disinfectant and let the stall air-dry completely, then cover the floors with wheat straw. Covering the floor with straw before it's dry can lead to dangerous mold growth. Avoid using wood shavings as bedding. These can cling to the wet newborn and may block its nose and prevent it from breathing. If you're moving the mare to a new stall, give her about 3 weeks to get used to it and build up antibodies to any germs in the environment. Keep the mare in a clean, safe paddock if you'd prefer to foal outdoors. If you live in a mild climate and you have a large, flat, grassy pasture, you may prefer to let the mare foal outside. In this case, use a temporary fence, such as a snow fence, to section off the birthing area sometime before the mare's due date. The paddock should be at least 16 ft × 16 ft (4.9 m × 4.9 m) to give the mare plenty of room. Move the mare to this paddock when she starts displaying signs of early labor. However, if you'd like, it's fine to move her there sooner so she can become acclimated to the area. To avoid contamination, try to find a section of land that hasn't been ridden on or grazed in for about 6 months prior to foaling. Don't use wire fence to close off the area. A newborn foal's eyesight is very poor, and the foal might get tangled up in the wire and injured. Store any supplies you’ll need in a large plastic container. Foaling can happen very quickly, so it's best to gather up everything you might need ahead of time. Store it in a large resealable container to keep everything as clean as possible, and place the container near the birthing stall or inside the area you've sectioned off in your pasture. While you should discuss the exact supplies you'll need with your vet, here are some things you might want to have on hand: Watch or clock for timing the stages of labor Tail wrap for the mare Petroleum jelly and sterile plastic gloves in case you need to reposition the foal Halter and lead-rope in case you need to guide the mare Mild soap Head-mounted LED lamp or a flashlight with extra batteries Clean towels in case you need to wipe down the foal Clean buckets for carrying water, holding dirty towels, and collecting the placenta String and scissors in case you need to tie off the umbilical cord Keep the mare away from fescue grass 45-60 days before the foal’s birth. If your mare regularly grazes on fescue grass, move her to another pasture or board her indoors about 6-8 weeks before the foal is due to be born. Fescue grass can lead to an increased risk of lowered milk production and complications during delivery. Fescue is a type of tall grass that is normally fine for horses to eat, but it's high in alkaloids, which are dangerous to the foal. The grass is also susceptible to infection from an endophyte fungus that can produce even more alkaloids. Vaccinate the mare about 1 month before she foals. Of course, as with any vaccinations, you should ask your vet about the specifics. However, it's generally a good idea to vaccinate your mare against tetanus, influenza, rabies, West Nile virus, and other common diseases. These vaccinations will protect the health of both the mare and the foal. Offer the mare bran and oats in the last week before delivery. About a week before you expect your mare to go into labor, reduce the amount of grain you're giving her. Instead, each day, give her 2 lb (910 g) of oats and 4 lb (1,800 g) of bran, divided into 2 meals. After the foal is born, gradually increase the mare's grain until her feed is back to normal. This may help prevent your mare from becoming constipated before or after the delivery of the foal. Always check with your vet before you make changes to your horse's diet. Check the mare daily for signs of labor, like a swollen vulva or teats. In the days before your mare gives birth, her body will start to prepare for the delivery, even if she hasn't actively gone into labor yet. Look around the mare's vaginal area to check if her vulva is swollen. Also, look under her belly to check for swollen teats, and check whether the area around the base of the mare's tail seems more prominent. The signs typically indicate that delivery is only a few days away. You may also notice some clear discharge around the mare's vulva, which is a normal sign of impending labor. If you notice a thick, yellowish secretion coming from your horse's teats, this is called “waxing,” and it's perfectly normal. The mare is producing colostrum, which is a special antibody-rich milk for newborn foals. Typically, the foal will be born within a day of this occurring, but it may take up to 4 days. Call your vet if you notice the mare leaking a lot of milk from her udders. It could be a sign of a problem with the pregnancy, but even if everything's fine, your vet might want you to collect and freeze the milk. Wrap the mare’s tail when she starts to seem anxious or colicky. When a mare starts to go into labor, she may be easily excitable, restless, or irritable, and you might see her repeatedly stand up and lie down, kick at her belly, or even bite at her flanks. She may also urinate more than usual. When you see this, braid the mare's tail, then tie it up with a clean wrap so it will be out of the way during the delivery. These signs indicate that the mare is in the first stage of labor. Sometimes a mare may only stay in the first stage for about 20 minutes, while other times it may take her several hours to progress to the second stage. Wash the mare’s udder and vulva with warm, soapy water in early labor. To reduce the risk of bacteria being transferred to the vulnerable foal, it's best to clean the mare thoroughly when you notice that she's going into early labor. Fill a bucket with mild soap and warm water and gently wipe down the mare on her udder, around her vulva, and all along her hindquarters. Then, rinse the soap away thoroughly with clean, warm water. Using warm water will be more comfortable for your mare. If she's not already there, move the mare to her birthing stall or the sectioned-off area in the pasture. Stay close if you plan to be present for the birth, as foaling can happen very quickly. Typically, a mare will successfully deliver her foal on her own, although in some cases intervention may be necessary. Stay close to the mare once her water breaks if it’s possible. The start of the second stage of labor occurs when the membrane around the foal ruptures and the placental fluid rushes out. If you're planning to be present for the birth, this is a sure sign that it's imminent. In fact, once the membranes rupture, the foal must be delivered within 30-40 minutes or it could die. When the horse's water breaks, it's easy to confuse it with urination. However, it will be about 2–5 US gal (7.6–18.9 L) of fluid. Normally, a horse produces about 2.5 US gal (9.5 L) throughout the course of a day. Call your vet if labor doesn't progress within 10-15 minutes of the mare's water breaking. Let the mare foal on her own unless something is obviously wrong. In most cases, mares are able to deliver their foals completely unassisted. It might be tempting to try to help her, but the best thing you can do is to give her plenty of space as she goes through the foaling process. In a normal birth, you should see one front foot first, with the hoof down, followed closely by a second. The foal's nose should come next, followed by its neck, shoulders, and hindquarters. If you notice any deviation from this order, the foal may be in the wrong position, and you should call your veterinarian right away. The vet may talk you through turning the foal. In this case, you'll need to put on a sterile sleeve and gloves. Tear open the membranes immediately if they appear red or maroon. The membranes are normally translucent and tinged white or yellow. The appearance of red streaks indicates that the placenta has separated prematurely. Use your hands or round-tip scissors to tear open the placenta quickly and call your veterinarian immediately. This is called a “red bag delivery” and can be fatal. Gently rotate the foal one way, then the other if it feels stuck. Sometimes, a foal's hip bones can get trapped, keeping it from sliding forward. If the foal appears to be in the right position but it isn't moving, gently twist it counterclockwise, then clockwise. Try to time the movement so you're twisting as the mare is pushing. Call your vet if this doesn't work on the first try. Never pull on a foal that's stuck in the birth canal. You can cause serious damage to the mare and the foal. Assist the foal to the ground if the mare is standing during delivery. Mares usually foal lying down, but occasionally one will stand. The foal can be seriously injured if it falls during birth, so, if it's possible, close by to catch it and gently lower it to the ground. As always, take care to avoid the mare's hooves so you don't get kicked. Clear the foal's airways if it doesn't break the membrane on its own. Typically, the foal's membranes will either break as it emerges from the mare, or the mare will clean it away. However, if the membranes are covering the foal's mouth and nose and the foal isn't breathing, carefully pull the membrane away and use a soft, dry towel to clear out its nasal passages and the inside of its mouth. If the foal is breathing normally, there's no need to do this, even if it appears that the membrane is still clinging to its face. It's best to leave the mare and foal undisturbed whenever it's possible. Rub the foal vigorously with a towel if it isn’t breathing well. Sometimes, foals need help to start breathing on their own. If it's not breathing, or if it's breathing weakly, rub the foal's neck, chest, and sides with a clean, dry towel. This can help stimulate its breathing and circulation. Have someone else call the veterinarian while you rub the foal with the towels. Twist and break the umbilical cord if it doesn’t break after 10-25 minutes. Generally, the umbilical cord will break on its own once the mare stands up. If it doesn't, find the narrowest spot on the cord, which should be about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the foal's navel. Grip the cord firmly on either side of where you want it to break, then twist it and pull. If the umbilical cord doesn't break right away, you may see it pulsing. This indicates that nutrient-rich blood is still being transferred from the placenta to the foal. Wait until the cord stops pulsing before you break it if it hasn't broken on its own. Never cut the cord with a knife or scissors, as this increases the risk of excessive bleeding. If the cord is gushing blood, call your vet. They may instruct you to tie off the cord with a piece of string. Give the mare and foal time to bond and rest. Foaling is an exhausting experience for both the mare and the foal, and the pair needs time to recover. In addition, they need to be allowed to spend time together to strengthen the bond between them. Encourage them both to rest, and keep other animals and people away as much as possible for the first few days. Provide the mare with food and fresh, clean water. The mare may want to eat right away, and she'll probably be thirsty after or her ordeal. Make sure she has plenty of fresh food, and use the same blend you gave her during her pregnancy. Also, provide plenty of fresh water but make sure the trough or bucket is high enough off the ground that the foal can't fall into it. Remove the foal temporarily if the mare rejects it. If the mare doesn't clean or nurse the foal, or she seems aggressive or even just apathetic toward it, remove the foal from the stall. Have someone else hold the foal as you restrain the mare with a harness and lead, then lead the foal back to the mare. Hold the mare securely as the foal approaches her, but talk to her in a soothing voice. Use your hand to express a little colostrum from the mare's udder, similar to how you would milk a cow , and place your fingers in the foal's mouth, drawing the foal closer to the mare's udder as you do so. Repeat this until the foal starts nursing from the mare's teat. If the mare has an especially swollen udder, nursing may be uncomfortable for her at first, which is why it's often helpful to restrain her long enough for the foal to start suckling. It's rare that a mare will reject her foal, although it does happen sometimes, especially if a mare's first birth. 
Prepare a large, clean birthing stall if you want the mare to foal indoors. Disinfect the birthing stall thoroughly if you're using one. Keep the mare in a clean, safe paddock if you'd prefer to foal outdoors. Store any supplies you’ll need in a large plastic container. Keep the mare away from fescue grass 45-60 days before the foal’s birth. Vaccinate the mare about 1 month before she foals. Offer the mare bran and oats in the last week before delivery. Check the mare daily for signs of labor, like a swollen vulva or teats. Wrap the mare’s tail when she starts to seem anxious or colicky. Wash the mare’s udder and vulva with warm, soapy water in early labor. Stay close to the mare once her water breaks if it’s possible. Let the mare foal on her own unless something is obviously wrong. Tear open the membranes immediately if they appear red or maroon. Gently rotate the foal one way, then the other if it feels stuck. Assist the foal to the ground if the mare is standing during delivery. Clear the foal's airways if it doesn't break the membrane on its own. Rub the foal vigorously with a towel if it isn’t breathing well. Twist and break the umbilical cord if it doesn’t break after 10-25 minutes. Give the mare and foal time to bond and rest. Provide the mare with food and fresh, clean water. Remove the foal temporarily if the mare rejects it. 