How to Care for a Leopard Gecko
To care for your leopard gecko, start by filling its water dish every day with clean bottled water and keeping it on the cooler side of its tank. Then, feed the gecko 8 crickets every few days, or daily if it's a young gecko. To give your gecko more vitamins, sprinkle the crickets with calcium and vitamin D3 powder before feeding them. Finally, clean the tank with warm water and disinfectant weekly and replace the tank lining once every 6 months.
Buy a 20 gallon (75.7 L) long tank or larger with a screen lid. Purchase a glass, wooden, or plastic container from a pet store to house your leopard gecko, including a securely fastened screen lid. A secure lid is important, especially if you have a cat or dog. You may find these sold as aquariums, vivariums, or terrariums. If you already have a home for your gecko, skim through this section to make sure it meets your pet's needs. The tank should be wider than it is tall, as leopard geckos are terrestrial. There's no size limit for adults, but in larger tanks, there must be plenty of hides so they don't get stressed. You can also buy a tank with a sliding door at the front instead of a screen lid. This tank would make it easier to tame your gecko. A 20 gallon (75.7 L) tank will hold one leopard gecko. It is best to house geckos separately as these reptiles get extremely stressed and fight if housed together. Even females who are similar in size cannot live together and may fight even if raised together. Even a breeding pair should be separated after mating. Line the container. Cover the bottom of the container with a layer of textured tile or dry Eco earth. Reptile carpet is an option as well, but it can trap bacteria and your gecko's claws may get caught in it. Make sure insects do not get under the substrate. You may use paper towels or newspaper instead, but make sure to replace them regularly as they get dirty or break apart. Crickets can get under this as well. Never use sand, especially not calcium sand. If your gecko was living in sand before you bought it, watch it carefully for signs of illness or take it to a veterinarian.  If using stone or another heavy substrate, consider putting a couple layers of paper towel or a handful of dry Eco Earth between the floor and the stone to reduce the chance of breakage and chipping. Sand is another option, but make sure it is not in reach of the gecko. Never use cedar wood chips or other resinous wood, since these may be toxic to leopard geckos. They also have been known to pierce the gecko's gullet. Heat the tank. Use a heating pad/mat specifically for reptile tanks, or "under tank heater," to heat the tank to about 90F. Don't use heat lamps as they damage leopard geckos sensitive eyes and they only absorb heat through their bellies. Use thermometers on each side of the cage to keep track of the temperature. The most accurate thermometers are temperature Gina and digital thermometers with probes. A thermostat is necessary to prevent the UTH from overheating and to regulate the temperature. During the night, the temperature should drop no lower than 80F (21ºC). If extra heat is needed during the winter, a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) can provide extra heat. If you do use a heating pad/mat, make sure your gecko isn't able to touch it or it could suffer from burns. Provide a day/night light cycle. Leopard geckos are crepuscular, meaning they are most active during dawn and dusk, but they are still adapted to live in areas with 14 hours of sunlight a day, or 12 hours during the winter. The easiest way to provide this is through indirect sunlight from a window. A light is only necessary if a window is unavailable. A common misconception is that Leos cannot see red light. Although they can't see the color, they can still see the light so it's best to not use one. Subtle UV lighting, while not completely necessary, is beneficial and can take the place of a d3 supplement. Leos cannot overdose on d3 they get from this light. Add three shelters per gecko to your cage. Purchase rock caves, logs, or any other reptile shelter from a pet store, large enough for the lizard to hide beneath. Alternatively, make these shelters yourself from smooth-sanded PVC piping or other materials, but avoid objects that have been outside, and objects with sharp edges. Place the shelters in three different places, to meet the leopard gecko's needs: Place two shelters on the warm side of the tank, and keep one lined with moist paper towels, Eco earth, or sphagnum moss underneath it. This is called the "humid hide," and the floor will need to be moistened regularly to allow the gecko to shed easily. (Keeping this on the cold side is not recommended due to the risk of respiratory infection.) ) Place a third shelter on the cooler side of the tank, and keep it dry. Put a dish of calcium in the tank. A milk bottle lid works great for putting powdered calcium in so if your gecko feels like it needs calcium it can go and lick some up. Be sure it doesn't have vitamin d3 or else it could lead to an overdose. Obtain your leopard gecko from a trustworthy source. Find your leopard gecko at a certified breeder if possible, or at a pet store with healthy, well-cared for animals. Select an animal with bright, clean eyes and a fat tail. Missing toes and crusty material around the mouth are signs of illness or retained shed. Do not purchase an unhealthy leopard gecko if you are not prepared to rehabilitate it. If you own a gecko that looks sick, do not allow it to breed. It may produce unhealthy offspring. Provide a shallow water dish. A wide, shallow water bowl is best, to allow the gecko to drink and bathe without a significant risk of drowning. Keep this on the cooler side of the tank. Refill it every day and clean it whenever necessary, typically every other day. Use bottled water, tap water left out for 24 hours, or water treated with reptisafe purchased from a pet store. Keep a separate container of live insects. Live crickets are the most common food source for leopard gecko pets, but you may use live dubia roaches instead, purchased from pet stores or online. Other options are superworms (not the healthiest), hornworms and silkworms (not to be bought in large amounts, hornworms are great as treats), and locusts (which are another good staple diet). Never feed your Leo fruit or wild insects. Butter worms and wax worms are options, but due to their high-fat content, you may want to use them as an occasional supplement for variety, rather than the main meal. Wax worms can be addictive to geckos and overfeeding may lead to your gecko refusing other food. Because leopard geckos will rarely eat dead insects, you'll need a plastic container with holes punched in the lid in order to keep the insects alive. Dead insects also provide no stimulation and are far less nutritious. You can buy insects as needed from pet stores, or maintain a larger container with enough insects to breed. If using crickets, put egg cartons in the container. To make safe and appealing food, the insects should be slightly smaller than the space between the gecko's eyes. If keeping mealworms short-term, store them in the refrigerator. If you are breeding them, keep them at room temperature so some of them morph into beetles. Add vitamins to the insects. Purchase powdered "calcium without D3" and vitamin with D3 powder for reptiles, often called "dusting powder." Before feeding insects to the gecko, place them in a plastic bag with this powder, and shake the bag until the insects are completely coated with the white powder. Feed these to the geckos immediately, as described below. Typically, you would use calcium powder every other feeding and multivitamins every three feedings. This can vary based on your gecko's age and diet, so you may want to ask an expert for advice. Add more nutrients to the insects. Another excellent way to add nutrients to the gecko's diet is to "gut load" the insects. Use a special formula for this purpose, or simply provide your container of insects with fruit and/or vegetables for 12–24 hours before feeding them to the gecko. Carrot, greens, potato, and apple works well. Avoid citrus, nightshade, banana, kale, iceberg lettuce, spinach, oats, broccoli, and watermelon. A very important thing is to never mix vitamin and calcium just to make it easier for you as this can actually kill your gecko. If you decide to try this, do this in addition to using the dusting powder described above, not as a replacement. Feed the gecko 2 - 3 times a week. Leopard geckos under six months old need daily feeding, Leos 6-12 months old need to be fed every other day, and Leos over a year old can be fed every 3-4 days. Generally speaking, each gecko should be fed enough food to eat in 10–15 minutes, or roughly 7-10 crickets. Remove all insects from the cage after 15–20 minutes, since they may attack and damage the leopard gecko's skin or eat the gecko's feces. If your gecko is a slow eater, or appears obese, check the section on health problems for advice. Clean the tank regularly. Remove feces, dead insects, and other debris from your leopard gecko's tank daily, to reduce the risk of disease and attracting harmful insects. About once a week, wash the entire enclosure with warm water and safe reptile disinfectant, rinsing the disinfectant away before the leopard gecko is returned to its tank. Change the substrate when it begins to have a noticeable odor, usually once a month. Dry Eco earth only needs to be changed every six months. Bioactive substrate never needs to be cleaned or changed. If you are using tiles or a similar, non-disposable substrate, just remove them from the tank temporarily and clean the floor beneath then when you notice a smell. Learn how to handle a leopard gecko safely. Wash your hands in warm, soapy water before handling a reptile, to avoid spreading disease to you or the animal. Herd the leopard gecko into your hand, or gently pick it up by the body, cradling it in your hand to provide enough support. Never pick up the animal by the tail, since it can detach its tail in reaction to predators. If the tail does detach, dispose of it, and clean the tank daily to prevent infection at the tail stub until it heals and starts to grow a new tail. Do not smoke in the same room as your gecko, and especially not while holding it. Understand skin shedding. Young leopard geckos shed their skin about once a month. Adult leopard geckos also shed their skin, but less frequently. The skin will turn grey or white a day or two before the shedding begins. As long as the old skin is successfully removed, usually eaten by the gecko, this is a harmless process and nothing to be concerned about. If the skin gets caught around the toes, gently rub it off with a damp Q-tip. Your gecko probably won't like this, but if left on, the gecko could lose a toe. If the old skin clings to other areas of the gecko, it's generally best to leave it on unless it's near the eyes, as this could cause eye problems. Your gecko may shed in patches as opposed to shedding all of its skin at once. Check for signs of dehydration. If you keep the "humid hide" shelter moist, as described in the set up section, adult leopard geckos are usually able to regulate their own skin moisture. However, if the gecko develops sunken eyes, constipation, or slow shedding (old, white skin clinging to the new), it may have a serious health problem. You could consider gently misting the gecko's skin once every day or two, but be aware that too much moisture can cause dangerous skin problems and respiratory infection. It may be safer to take the gecko to a veterinarian. Leopard geckos under a month old may "scream" when misted, but this is not a sign of harm. Protect the gecko from over-humid conditions. On the other side of the spectrum, if the air is very humid in the area the gecko is kept, consider purchasing a hygrometer to track humidity in the tank. If it rises above 40%, point a fan over the tank or replace the water dish with a smaller one. Reduce food for an obese gecko. Leopard geckos store fat in their tails, so they should have a wide, fat appearance. However, if the gecko's tail is wider than the body, and/or if fat deposits have built up around the limbs, reduce the amount of food per feeding. Take your animal to a veterinarian for other problems. Seek urgent veterinary attention if the lizard is not responding to your touch or to food, or if you notice twitching, weight loss in the tail, bleeding, or other serious health problems. Consult a veterinarian within 24 hours if you notice diarrhea, constipation, crusty material building up, or a dark, discolored toe or tail tip. Behavioral changes in eating preferences or sleeping schedule can occur naturally with age, but talking to a veterinarian or reptile expert about them is still recommended. Respect your gecko's privacy. Once the little guy has moved in, he/she might be nervous at first. Don't attempt to hold him/her until he/she has settled in. If you attempt to hold him/her before this, it may scare the gecko and stress it out, which can cause it not eat, leading to medical problems. 
Buy a 20 gallon (75.7 L) long tank or larger with a screen lid. Line the container. Heat the tank. Provide a day/night light cycle. Add three shelters per gecko to your cage. Put a dish of calcium in the tank. Obtain your leopard gecko from a trustworthy source. Provide a shallow water dish. Keep a separate container of live insects. Add vitamins to the insects. Add more nutrients to the insects. Feed the gecko 2 - 3 times a week. Clean the tank regularly. Learn how to handle a leopard gecko safely. Understand skin shedding. Check for signs of dehydration. Protect the gecko from over-humid conditions. Reduce food for an obese gecko. Take your animal to a veterinarian for other problems. Respect your gecko's privacy. 