How to Socialize Your Rabbit
To socialize two rabbits, keep them in separate cages and swap their toys so they can observe each other and get used to one another's smells. When you're ready to introduce them, choose neutral territory such as the bathroom and provide toys and food to encourage them to interact. You should do this for around 20 minutes a day, but make sure to observe the interaction so you can break up any potential fights. If your rabbits start growling or their bodies become tense, this is a sign that they feel threatened and you should separate them.
Approach your rabbit with care. The way you approach a rabbit makes a big difference. Approaching a rabbit too quickly or clumsily can startle the rabbit. Rabbits are friendly, but can be skittish. Approach with care. Open the door to your rabbit's cage. Make sure you're in a closed, rabbit-safe room. Do not pick your rabbit up and force him out of the cage. Allow him to make the decision to leave the cage on his own. Let your rabbit come to you first. Sit in the room with your rabbit and allow him approach you on his own. If you see him coming your way, then you can start approaching him as well. Talk to your rabbit calmly as you approach him. Offer him praise and reassurance so he knows you are not a threat. Unless you need to move your rabbit somewhere, it's best not to pick him up until he knows you. Rabbits may feel restrained when held and take the gesture as a threat. Instead of picking up your rabbit, try petting him slowly between the eyes as you get close to him. Get down on your rabbit's level. In your rabbit's eyes, you look like a giant. If you want him to feel comfortable in your presence, try getting down to his level. This will lessen some of your rabbit's fear. Try playing with your rabbit in a closed-off, rabbit safe room. Lie down on the floor so you're about eye level with your rabbit. Allow your rabbit to come to you. Rabbits are curious by nature. Your rabbit may sniff you or climb on you. Don't be alarmed by these behaviors. They're actually a sign your rabbit feels comfortable in your presence. Go slowly. Do not try to rush the bonding process with a new rabbit. This will only serve to alienate your rabbit and reverse any progress you've made. Have patience and allow things to happen at their own pace. Let your rabbit choose the pace of the socialization process. Do not try to approach him if he's uninterested in you. If he does not want to come out of his cage one day, don't force him. Rabbits are all different. Some will be social very quickly while others may take a few weeks or months to bond with their owner. It's very important you let your rabbit's unique personality control the bonding process. Rabbits have good memories and if you do something to scare them, like forcing them out of their cage, it may take them awhile to trust you again. Use food. Food can be a great tool to bond with your rabbit. If your rabbit associates you with positive experiences, like getting treats, he'll be more eager to bond with you. Try feeding your rabbit pellets from the palm of your hand. When you're refilling his food dish in the morning, see if he'll take a few pellets directly from you before you fill his bowl. When playing with your rabbit on the floor, offer him treats like fruits and veggies. Some owners put a bit of food on their backs while lying on their stomachs. This encourages your rabbit to climb on you, allowing him to get comfortable in your presence. Pay attention to body language. You want to make sure you know how to read your rabbit. This way, you can tell if you're bonding with him successfully. You should be able to tell when your rabbit's feeling content and safe and when he needs his space. If your rabbit feels safe around you, he may flop down on the ground to rest. This is a sign of relaxation and general contentment. To show affection, your rabbit may lick you. If your rabbit spins in circles while making a honking noise, this means he's excited. If your rabbit spins and honks when he sees you, this a sign he's growing to like you. Rabbits grind their teeth both to show contentment and pain. A rabbit may grind his teeth when you're petting him, for example, if he's enjoying himself. However, pay close attention to the nature of the grinding as it can also be a sign of distress. If the grinding is loud and your rabbit's body is hunched up and tense, stop doing what you're doing. This is a sign your rabbit is upset. Rabbits may also growl to show anger. When annoyed, a rabbit may run away from you while kicking out with his back feet. In the wild, rabbits kick dirt at potential threats. If your rabbit is growling or kicking at you, it's a sign you're doing something to upset him. Choose a pair that bonds well. If you want to introduce two rabbits, consider the pair. Certain combinations of rabbits, like males and females, bond easier than others. If possible, choose a second rabbit that has a good chance of bonding with your first. You should spay or neuter rabbits before pairing them. If you have a male and female pair, this prevents breeding. Hormonal-driven aggression is also less likely in spayed or neutered rabbits. Two males or two females are more likely to fight with one another. If you're getting a second adult rabbit, things will go smoother if you pick a rabbit of a different gender. Two babies usually bond very well. An adult and baby may bond easier than an adult and another adult. If at all possible, get two rabbits at the same time. It's much easier for a pair to bond if both of them are in new, neutral territory. Allow the rabbits to interact through separate cages. Unless a pair has lived together previously, you should never throw two rabbits together right away. Keep the rabbits in separate cages, but in the same room. Allow them to observe one another through their cages. You might want to try swapping toys or bedding between cages. This gives your rabbits a chance to get used to one another's smells. Have the first meeting on neutral territory. When you feel ready to let your rabbits interact, choose a neutral territory. Rabbits can get territorial and even aggressive if another rabbit is in their territory. Therefore, choose a location in your home neither rabbit frequents. For example, you can introduce them on the kitchen counter or in a closed off room, like your bathroom. Keep a few obstacles in the room, like toys and nest boxes. You can also add some food in the middle of the room. This may encourage the rabbits to interact. You should observe your rabbits closely during their first introduction. There is always a risk of fighting. If your rabbits do fight, break them up immediately. You can use a spray bottle to quell them or pull the rabbits apart. It's a good idea to wear protective gloves during the first introduction. In the event of a fight, separate the rabbits and try again the next day. Let the rabbits interact for 20 minutes a day. If the first introduction is fairly successful, allow the rabbits to start interacting about 20 minutes a day. Again, keep them in a neutral territory. Observe interactions so you can break up any potential fights. Watch for aggressive body language, as this may mean a fight is brewing. If your rabbits seem to be getting hostile with one another, it's a good idea to separate them. If your rabbit's tail is erect, his body is tense, and his ears are back, this is a sign of aggression. Also, watch for noises like growling. These can indicate the rabbit feels threatened. Try allowing them to share a cage when the relationship seems stable. If your rabbits seem comfortable together, try keeping them in the same cage. For the first couple of weeks, observe your rabbits at all times when they're sharing a cage. Make sure they're in separate cages at night. If all seems well after a few weeks, you can safely leave your rabbits in the cage together unsupervised. Most rabbits enjoy having a companion as it lessens loneliness when their owners are away at work or school. Spay or neuter your rabbit. Spaying and neutering your rabbits can reduce hormone-driven behaviors which can interfere with the socialization process. If possible, adopt a rabbit who has already been spayed or neutered. If your rabbit has not been spayed or neutered at adoption, talk to your vet about making an appointment. In addition to helping with socialization, spaying female rabbits reduces the risk of uterine cancer. Reintroduce rabbits if they're separated for an extended period. Most rabbits will bond for life after the initial introduction process. However, if your rabbits are separated for a long time repeat the introduction process. Rabbits have decent memories and will probably remember their cage mates. However, it's better safe than sorry. You do not want your rabbits to fight with one another, which can lead to injury and even death. Rabbits do grieve. In the event one of your rabbits dies, wait a few months before getting a new rabbit. Your surviving rabbit may react poorly to a new cage mate if he is still mourning the loss of his friend. Approach your rabbit from the side. Rabbits eyes are placed on either side of their heads. This means rabbits cannot see directly in front of themselves. Never approach a rabbit directly in front, as he will not be able to see you coming. This can be very scary. Always approach your rabbit from the side so he knows you're coming. Introduce your rabbit to new people slowly. If your rabbit has bonded with you, he may be more friendly with other people. However, you should still err on the side of caution. With new people, allow your rabbit to choose when and if he wants to interact with others. If you have a new household member, allow that person to spend some time alone in a room with the rabbit. Instruct that person to follow a similar regimen to the one you used to bond with your rabbit. Allow the rabbit to come to the new person first. Encourage the new person to use treats and toys to win the rabbit's favor. If your rabbit has already been socialized with you, the process may go quicker this time around. If you have friends over that want to see your rabbit, encourage them to allow the rabbit to sniff their hands before they pet or handle him. Coax your rabbit out of the cage if your friends want to play with him. If he seems skittish or unhappy, inform your friends your rabbit needs some space. Leave the rabbit alone for an hour or so before trying to introduce him to your friends again. 
Approach your rabbit with care. Get down on your rabbit's level. Go slowly. Use food. Pay attention to body language. Choose a pair that bonds well. Allow the rabbits to interact through separate cages. Have the first meeting on neutral territory. Let the rabbits interact for 20 minutes a day. Try allowing them to share a cage when the relationship seems stable. Spay or neuter your rabbit. Reintroduce rabbits if they're separated for an extended period. Approach your rabbit from the side. Introduce your rabbit to new people slowly. 