How to Buy a Used Motorcycle
Whether you're buying a used motorcycle from a dealership or a private seller, you'll want to make sure it's in good condition. Check the mileage on the bike's odometer. Anything less than 50,000 miles is okay if the bike looks good, but the fewer miles, the better. Make sure there's little to no rust, dents, or damage on the bike's metal components, since this could be expensive to repair. Once you've inspected the bike, take it out for a test ride. While you're riding, check that the acceleration, turning, braking, and shifting all feel natural. Listen for any grinding or rattling noises that suggest something's damaged or worn down.
Look for bikes that are appropriate for the type of riding you plan on doing. Before you begin comparing prices or drooling over various models, think about how you'll actually be using your motorcycle. Most cycle enthusiasts tend to use their bikes for one of several purposes: recreational riding/commuting, touring, motorsports, or some combination thereof. Knowing which riding style best applies to you will help you find a bike that's suited for your specific needs and preferences. Ask yourself what kind of you imagine when you picture yourself owning a motorcycle. Are you just interested in cruising around your neighborhood? Do you plan on loading it up for a road trip instead of your usual vehicle? A 1000cc superbike can offer high-speed thrills on the track, for example, but it probably isn't the most practical way to get to work. Buy from a reputable dealership if at all possible. Since auto dealerships only turn a profit if they can inspire enough confidence in their customers to make a sell, they have a vested interest in stocking quality, well-maintained items. They also generally offer some type of warranty, which will keep you from getting stuck with the cost of repairs in the event that something goes wrong in your first few months of ownership. Many dealerships can also perform ownership history checks on any of their units. That way, you'll know that the bike you've got your eye on hasn't been stolen or written off as non-resellable by an insurance company. At a dealership, you'll be paying for peace of mind as much as a product. The asking prices may not always be as attractive as those in private listings, but at least you'll know that your purchase comes guaranteed. Browse online automobile marketplaces for specific makes and models. Used motorcycles are constantly being listed on e-commerce sites like eBay. You can also seek out private sales online through resources like Cycle Trader or the motorcycle section on Autotrader, which allow you to fine-tune your search based on parameters like make, model, year, and mileage. If you want to avoid the cost and potentially tricky logistics of long-distance shipping, use local trading sites like Craigslist or Facebook Market to look through listings for used bikes in your area. Research the average price range of the bike you’re interested in. Run a search for a particular make, model, and year and pull up results from multiple websites. Pricing your options head-to-head will help paint a picture of what the bike is worth given its age and history of use. From there, you can start thinking about whether it fits in your budget and how much you may be able to talk down a seller who's asking for an amount that's on the high side. Keep in mind that listing prices may vary considerably based on mileage, condition, and availability, as well as other wild-card factors like custom parts. Online price guides like Cycle Trader and NADAguides (a J.D. Power associate) can also be useful for sizing up a buy, provided you can find the model you're looking for. Note the number of miles on the odometer. There are no definitively “good” or “bad” readings in terms of mileage, as different bikes are built with different specs for different purposes. What's more important is to compare the bike's outward appearance to its recorded mileage. If they don't seem to line up, you may be better off exploring other options. Try not to overanalyze. If it comes down to a toss-up between two bikes of the exact same model and one has $15,000-20,000 fewer miles on it, it's clearly the better deal. Unless it's obviously in bad shape, don't be put off by a motorcycle with 30,000-50,000 miles on the engine. When properly cared for, many bikes have maximum mileages as high as some cars, so there's a good chance that it still has plenty of road time left in it. Take stock of the bike’s general appearance. Look the bike over top to bottom and front to back, paying particular attention to the main components like the frame, headstock, fenders, side covers, and windshield. A little bit of wear and tear isn't uncommon on older bikes, but for the most part, all of the chrome and paint should be clean, shiny, and free of rust, and there should be no dents, dings, scratches, or other visible signs of damage. Bring a flashlight along with you in case you're forced to perform your inspection in low light. A multimeter can also come in handy for testing the voltage output of older bikes with batteries that haven't been changed in a while. Be wary of bikes that look like they haven't been washed in a while. A little dust and dirt may not seem like a big deal, but it could point to neglect elsewhere. Climb on the motorcycle to try out the suspension. Straddle the seat and bounce up and down gently. The forks, or the pronged pieces connecting the front wheel to the frame, should absorb the motion and return to their original position quickly and quietly. By contrast, the rear shocks should hold firm, preventing the back of the bike from dipping too much. Grinding, squeaking, and poor impact absorption, along with obvious visible damage like scrapes, cracks, dings, and rust, are all evidence of a suspension system that's taken a lot of abuse. Keep your eyes peeled for oil coming from the shocks or struts—it might be coming from a broken seal. Examine the tires for excessive or uneven wear. It's totally normal for the center third of each tire to be a little smoother than the surrounding areas. Flat spots or significant off-center wear, however, could be due to bad riding habits, such as hard braking or skidding. Damage like this not only weakens the tire but places unnecessary strain on other parts of the bike that are not as cheap or easy to replace. Similarly, blunt or diagonal scuffs could indicate alignment issues. Inspect the seats and other hard-wearing areas to look for deterioration. Materials like leather and rubber can deteriorate fairly quickly, especially if the previous owner did a lot of riding. A torn seat or loose footpeg doesn't necessarily mean that the bike is a junker. However, if all of the main points of contact are beat up and there's also noticeable wear or damage to the frame and surrounding areas, it means that it's likely seen better days. If the bike you're appraising has saddlebags, be sure to look through them inside and out. Hard bags should be completely free of cracks or holes, while both the fabric and stitching of soft bags should be intact, with no rips, thin spots, or abrasions. Don't let some worn-out upholstery stop you from going ahead with a purchase if you're satisfied with the motorcycle's overall condition. These parts are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace. Check the fuel and oil tanks for rust or sediment. Unscrew the fuel cap on the body of the bike and use your flashlight to take a peek inside. There should be nothing floating in the fuel itself and no rust or corrosion on the walls of the tank. Next, note the color of the oil, which is usually visible through a sight glass on one side of the engine. If it's clean and syrupy, you're good. If it's dark, it may have been some time since it was last changed. If you can see shiny metallic flakes suspended in the oil, the bike is a dud. This means that the spent oil has been left to sit for so long that it's eating away at the oil chamber from within. Don't be tempted to skip this part of the inspection thinking that you'll just change out the oil and fuel later. These fluids are the lifeblood of a motorcycle, and play a major role in the machine's overall performance and condition. Remove the seat to confirm that the internal wiring is in good shape. You don't have to be an experienced technician to be able to tell if something is amiss in the electrical compartment. Just take a quick peek to see whether everything looks like it's securely connected and in its proper place. Ideally, each of the wires should still have their original factory connectors, or a suitable aftermarket replacement, if they've been worked on at some point. There's a lot more to a motorcycle's electrical system than just the battery. It also includes the alternator, rectifier/regulator headlight, fog lights, and any additional modules you may have hooked up, such as a built-in GPS unit or garage door opener. Test the voltage of the battery and look for a reading between 10.5 and 12. While you've got the seat off, hook up your multimeter to the battery's positive and negative terminals to see how much juice it has. It should put out around 12 volts while the bike is off, and no less than 10.5 while it's running. If you get anything lower for either phase of the test, consider it a red flag. If you don't have a multimeter, kickstart the bike (or ask the owner to start it) and listen to the way the engine cranks. If it's slow to turn over, or if the headlight dims momentarily, it means that the battery isn't providing enough power to feed the starter or alternator. A dead battery is also a dead giveaway that a motorcycle hasn't been ridden in a while, and might also hint that it's got other problems related to disuse. Take the bike out for a test ride. First, start the engine and listen for any unusual noises, such as creaking, rattling, or grinding. If there are no apparent problems, ease your way onto a well-maintained stretch of road that offers safe conditions. Pay close attention to the way the bike handles acceleration, turns, braking, and shifting. Everything should feel smooth, stable, and responsive. If the seller is reluctant to let you test the bike on your own, see if they'd be willing to let you hop on as a passenger, or at least watch and listen from a close distance to get a sense of how it rides. Don't forget to bring your driver's license and insurance card along with you on your test ride. It's also a good idea to come prepared with a helmet and other safety gear in case your seller doesn't have these things available. Talk to a local dealership about scheduling a detailed inspection. Even if you decide to buy your bike from a private party, it's wise to have it looked over by a third party before you make any kind of agreements. Most dealerships and small cycle shops are happy to serve as a middleman in private sales for a small service fee. Spending a few extra dollars now could save you a considerable amount of time, money, and labor in the future. If the owner seems hesitant to get another party involved, it could be because the bike has issues that they don't want you to see. Requesting an independent inspection is especially important if you're buying online and aren't able to examine the bike in person. Scan the bike’s VIN number for errors or inconsistencies. A vehicle identification number, or VIN number, is a unique serial number used to legally identify a vehicle. On most motorcycles, you'll find the VIN number stamped onto the steering neck section of the frame, just behind the headlight. Check this number against the number on the official title to make sure that they're a match. Never do business with a seller that doesn't have the vehicle's title on hand. While it's not a guarantee that a bike is stolen, it's definitely not worth the risk. In rare instances, VIN numbers can be modified or forged for criminal reasons. If something about the VIN number looks fishy, make it a point to have it inspected by a qualified professional at a nearby dealership. Ask to see the motorcycle’s service records or receipts. Responsible owners almost always hold onto documents showing their bike's service history. If the owner is the do-it-yourself type, see if they've kept a logbook or similar informal record indicating how much work they've put into the bike over the years. A long service history isn't necessarily a bad thing—in some cases, it may actually suggest that the owner has taken very good care of the bike. What's more important is to take a close look at what's listed there (and what's not) and make sure that they've been maintaining the big stuff. If you decide to buy through a dealership, they should be able to pull up a full service record for any of their vehicles since the time it arrived on the lot. Keep your budget in mind while negotiating the final price. Study retail pricing guides or read through classified ads to get an idea of the bike's market value. Then, put those numbers side-by-side with your approximate budget to come up with an exact amount that you'd be willing to spend. Most used motorcycles don't end up selling for their initial asking price, so don't be afraid to haggle a bit to bring the number down to something more agreeable for your wallet. When it comes time to make an offer, be realistic. Lowballing the seller may just insult them and make them less willing to compromise. You can work out the payment details with the seller after you've agreed on a price. Make sure you're both clear about the terms of the transaction, as they'll be recorded in the vehicle's bill of sale. Fill out a bill of sale to have the vehicle's title legally transferred to you. The seller should provide you with a formal bill of sale form, which can be printed online or obtained from your area DMV. This form will document the make, model, and VIN number of the bike, as well as a precise odometer reading and the details of the financial transaction between you and the previous owner. The previous owner will need to sign the title over to you in order to finalize the sale. Don't forget to make an appointment at your local DMV office to apply for a new set of tags once the bike is officially yours. In some states and territories, it may be necessary to have your bill of sale signed by a licensed notary. Bring all of the relevant legal paperwork with you to the DMV, including a copy of the bill of sale, and be prepared to pay a small transfer fee. Fees vary by location, but you can expect to pay around $20-30, on average. 
Look for bikes that are appropriate for the type of riding you plan on doing. Buy from a reputable dealership if at all possible. Browse online automobile marketplaces for specific makes and models. Research the average price range of the bike you’re interested in. Note the number of miles on the odometer. Take stock of the bike’s general appearance. Climb on the motorcycle to try out the suspension. Examine the tires for excessive or uneven wear. Inspect the seats and other hard-wearing areas to look for deterioration. Check the fuel and oil tanks for rust or sediment. Remove the seat to confirm that the internal wiring is in good shape. Test the voltage of the battery and look for a reading between 10.5 and 12. Take the bike out for a test ride. Talk to a local dealership about scheduling a detailed inspection. Scan the bike’s VIN number for errors or inconsistencies. Ask to see the motorcycle’s service records or receipts. Keep your budget in mind while negotiating the final price. Fill out a bill of sale to have the vehicle's title legally transferred to you. 