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I drew up the bolt today, and hope to make it this weekend. Then I'll think about the final design for the breech cover.
I did run some rounds through the gun. Initial numbers were in the low 300's, at which point I realized I was loading .177 pellets in a .22 rifle. Distractions...anyway, it's shooting around 580 fps with 10 pumps (14.3 gr.), which is a little low. I hope that a new transfer port seal and a new bolt will speed it up a bit. We'll see.
I turned and threaded a new breech bolt. I just winged the dimensions. Because I used the 3 jaw chuck the bolt slipped a bit while I was threading it. So I grabbed onto the waste stock with some vise grips.
As you can see it wasn't a particularly accurate copy, better to follow my detailed article on how to make one exactly, but for less than 10 minutes of machining it's fine to test the rifle.
Flanged bushing and washer in place. I used a nut to clamp the stock but will make a knurled nut soon.
The rifle is now complete enough to test, although there's clearly a lot of work remaining...more posts to come...
So having stuffed the valve back together, I needed to test the rifle. Which meant making a few parts...
I had to cut down a screw to hold the trigger group in the front. Threading a nut on the screw above the cut allows you to reshape the threads after sawing and deburring.
The bolt will get replaced (due to the front end being broken), but I wanted to test the valve first...so I have to remove the broken screw in the bolt.
My Crosman 130, which also uses a sliding breech cover. I decided to use it for the appropriate dimensions on a temporary breech cover.
I haven't had a gratuitous edge finding picture in a while. I found center and then the location of the hole for the breech screw.
Milled and reassmbled with a new bolt o-ring. A lot of work for a temporary fix, but it didn't take that long, and I didn't want to do a lot of work before I tested the function of the valve...
Well, I bought another "pile-o-parts" airgun, a Crosman 140. It was mostly in pieces so I took everything else apart and cleaned the gunk off.
The valve. It's a pop-off valve, held under pressure by the sear. When the trigger is released the cap at the right pops off and releases the air.
The piston rod that came with the rifle is at the bottom. Someone tried unsuccessfully to remove the old seal, and did what looks like a bunch of grinding on it. The top rod assembly came as a spare with the Crosman 101 pile-o-parts I bought a while back. So I figured that I'd use it instead.
The 101 piston parts, and a new seal that also came with the 101. Since I'm nowhere near close to working on the 101 I figured I'd use it here.
The valve o-rings were removed and replaced with new ones. The pop off valve has an internal quad seal. Later on in the process I ended up replacing it with an o-ring which will probably not last. I'll be ordering in the proper seal soon.
The pivot pin is a spring pin. How I hate pushing it in and out when setting the optimum piston rod distance, as well as getting the valve assembled correctly.
The trigger group looks a lot like the 160 trigger, but is simpler as it only retains the "hammer" against the valve pressure. The front screw holding it to the tube is temporary. I didn't bother putting the barrel on yet.
I was never 100% comfortable with just the single cross pin holding the endcap against the mainspring. The peen on the pin is minimal and made me nervous that it might eventually vibrate out of position--firing the endcap back at my skull in the process. Ow. While I've never heard of that happening, a bit of extra retention would certainly bolster my confidence when using the rifle.
First, minimal disassembly: I removed the action from the stock, pulled the red dot and removed the cocking lever. Then, I looked at the endcap and found the thickest part where it slid inside the receiver tube--about 3/8" to the rear of the pin on the left side of the gun.
Found a button head M5 hardened bolt and some medium strength threadlocker. I cleaned out all the metal chips from the drilling and tapping steps before installation.
Installed. I'd like to have another bolt on the other side, but there's no metal in the end cap on the right side--it's relieved to accommodate the cocking lever. I feel better knowing that the retention pin now has some redundancy for safety's sake.
There's a metal washer and a felt oil retainer inside. No worry about dieseling with the low velocity of this pistol?
The piston, spring and lever parts. The orientation of the linkage is important...I put it back together upside down and had to do what I show twice...
The loading port for the BBs also retains the barrel. Notice the band-aid on my thumb. The compression tube has sharp edges...
I polished up the piston for the heck of it. Then I used a pin punch to align everything so I could push the pin back in. The felt is a pain to get around.
I used a spring compressor to push everything together, not that the force was high but it made a good third hand.
With the cocking linkage pushed clear of the spring I reattached it to the lever. (Upside down the first time...)
My new favorite old tool...these parallel jaw pliers were just the thing to push that roll pin back in. Anyway the reast of the pistol went back together in reverse of disassembly. It's a bit weak, although I have no idea what the velocity is supposed to be. Nor do I care.
I've been a bit busy lately but decided it would be fun and quick to take apart my Daisy model 188 BB pistol and see what makes it tick. Mine is the metal bodied but BB only version.
The loading port, you can see the BBs being picked up by the bolt here. On the earlier model you could also insert a pellet but the casting was changed to prevent that.
The compression tube, spring and lever can be removed as a unit. It's under a bit of tension inside the pistol even uncocked.