Quantitative predictions of beach-face slopes
Application of dimensional analysis to the major factors responsible for beach-slope changes yields the dimensionless parameter, H b /g 0.5 D 0.5 T, where H b is the breaking wave height, T is the wave period, D is the sediment grain size, and g is the acceleration due to gravity. Relationships between this parameter and beach-face slope, tan α, are determined by using the existing laboratory and field data to yield tan α = [0.013/(H b /g 0.5 D 0.5 T) 2 ] + 0.15 for the laboratory and tan α = 0.12/(H b /g 0.5 D 0.5 T) 0.5 for the field. These equations make possible the prediction of the beach slope.