Amplification of wind waves in reservoirs of finite depth
A method for predicting the generation and amplification of waves from the zone of generation to large fetches, where infragravity waves occur in water of finite depth, is developed from a physical model of interaction between a horizontal air flow and a water surface caused by periodic formation of vortices in the viscous air layer. The model describes the origination of multiple frequencies, and the displacement of wave energy to low-frequency region over a fetch.