Twill plaited  Patterns
209451991
12. Plaited textile expression in Lapita ceramic ornamentation
Oceanic art styles are often seen as having their origin in the detailed and elaborately executed dentate stamp ornamentation of Lapita pottery, as fragments, unheralded in the Bismarck Archipelago until around 3300 years ago from where it spread to later settlements in Vanuatu, New Caledonia, Fiji, Tonga and Samoa. The distinctive Lapita vessels include platters, plates, bowls and cylinder stands bearing designs notable for their formal arrangement of repeating units within panels arranged in horizontal bands. Later archaeological research produced whole vessels with entire design fields, giving a clearer expression of the wealth and range of Lapita originality in the ornamentation of these ceramics. Ethnographically recorded Oceanic tattoo, tapa and wood carving designs are often thought to have received their inspiration from ancient Lapita pottery decoration. This chapter argues conversely that the transfer of designs is to Lapita ceramics, from plaiting and basketry as the dominant, more fundamental, enduring and geographically extensive influence, with implications for later ceramic production and changing social organisation in Polynesia.
Wallace Ambrose
125468582
Lace tessellations: a mathematical model for bobbin lace and an exhaustive combinatorial search for patterns
Bobbin lace is a 500 year old art form in which threads are braided together in an alternating manner to produce a lace fabric. A key component in its construction is a small pattern, called a bobbin lace ground, that can be repeated periodically to fill a region of any size. In this thesis we present a mathematical model for bobbin lace grounds representing the structure as the pair (1(G) z(v) where 1(G) is a topological embedding of a 2 regular digraph, G, on a torus and z(v) is a mapping from the vertices of G to a set of braid words. We explore in depth the properties that 1(G) must possess in order to produce workable lace patterns. Having developed a solid, logical foundation for bobbin lace grounds, we enumerate and exhaustively generate patterns that conform to that model. We start by specifying an equivalence relation and define what makes a pattern prime so that we can identify unique representatives. We then prove that there are an infinite number of prime workable patterns. One of the key properties identified in the model is that it must be possible to partition 1(G) into a set of osculating circuits such that each circuit has a wrapping index of (1, 0) that is, the circuit wraps once around the meridian of the torus and does not wrap around the longitude. We use this property to exhaustively generate workable patterns for increasing numbers of vertices in G by gluing together lattice paths in an osculating manner. Using a backtracking algorithm to
Veronika Irvine
52916990
Performance Evaluation of SIFT Descriptor against Common Image Deformations on Iban Plaited Mat Motifs
Borneo indigenous communities are blessed with rich craft heritage. One such examples is the Iban's plaited mat craft. There have been many efforts by UNESCO and the Sarawak Government to preserve and promote the craft. One such method is by developing a mobile app capable of recognising the different mat motifs. As a first step towards this aim, we presents a novel image dataset consisting of seven mat motif classes. Each class possesses a unique variation of chevrons, diagonal shapes, symmetrical, repetitive, geometric and non geometric patterns. In this study, the performance of the Scale invariant feature transform (SIFT) descriptor is evaluated against five common image deformations, i.e. zoom and rotation, viewpoint, image blur, JPEG compression and illumination. Using our dataset, SIFT performed favourably with test sequences belonging to Illumination changes, Viewpoint changes, JPEG compression and Zoom Rotation. However, it did not performed well with Image blur test sequences with an average of 1.61% retained pairwise matching after blurring with a Gaussian kernel of 8.0 radius.
ArXiv
Silvia Joseph I Hipiny Hamimah Ujir
191486705
"Thy bankes with pioned, and twilled brims" A Solution to a Double Crux
The first line in this passage presents two familiar problems, the discussion of which occupies six pages in the 1892 Variorum edition of the play.2 First, the sense of the word pioned is uncertain: some editors prefer to emend to pionied, which they explain as an otherwise unrecorded formation from piony (i.e. peony) Others prefer to take the word as formed from pioning, which means "excavating".3 Second, the sense of twilled is also difficult. It can mean "woven with a pattern of slanting lines," but it is difficult to see why any bank should be so described. Editors have sometimes
John Joseph Considine
134904548
Materials, Functions and Weaving Patterns of Philippine Indigenous Baskets
Baskets serve as a national icon for Filipinos signifying agricultural and cultural relevance. It has been used as containers and traditional bags of the Filipino farmers for its products or a status symbol of the women amongst different indigenous groups. This paper discusses and analyses different materials, functions, weaving patterns and cultural relevance of the different baskets in the Philippines. Further, this paper presents a comparative analysis on the forms, style, usage and economic relevance of the different indigenous baskets. It is noteworthy that these baskets transcend cultural identity and information among indigenous Filipinos. The common raw materials used in making baskets are rattan, abaca, nito, tikog, buri, bamboo, pandan, coconut leaves and sticks, palm leaves, and beeswax. There are several baskets that use combined raw materials. The usage and function of the baskets depends on the form, style and the raw materials used as well as the indigenous group on which it originates. The several functions can be clustered into carrying agricultural products, storage, ritual use, food and paraphernalia containers, and auxiliary household functions. The weaving patterns depend to the raw materials used, design and style of the indigenous groups and function of the basket. The common weaving patterns utilized were checker weave, twill weave, wicker weave, twine weave and coiled weaves.
Andy Nestor Ryan Pazon Joana Marie Pabulayan del Rio
23575773
Wetland Plant Species Used for Craft Production in Kwazulu Natal, South Africa: Ethnobotanical Knowledge and Environmental Sustainability
Wetland Plant Species Used for Craft Production in Kwazulu Natal, South Africa: Ethnobotanical Knowledge and Environmental Sustainability. In KwaZulu Natal Province, there is a rich tradition of wetland plant utilization for craft production. A survey of the province, based on interviews and participatory field walks, revealed which wetland plant species are harvested and how the different species are used. The principal plant species utilized varied greatly among regions: In the coastal region it was Cyperus latifolius Poir. (iKhwane) and Juncus kraussii Hochst. (iNcema) whereas in the uplands it was Cyperus marginatus Thunb. (iNcema) The initial hypothesis that the diversity of plant morphologies added to the diversity of different weave types and products was confirmed by the data. Plant morphological characteristics influenced the weaving techniques suitable for craft production. For example, the fine culms of J. kraussii and C. marginatus have particular value for twilling, twining, and straight sewing and the robust C. latifolius leaves are well suited for the plait. Pressures on the supply of the natural resource were greatest from competing land uses, such as wetland cultivation and, to a lesser extent, from competition among plant harvesters. There was a high demand for J. kraussii, which is traded beyond the limits of its geographical distribution to a much greater extent than the other species. The paper concludes by recommending the wider application of the approach and methods used in the study in order to inform initiatives promoting small business development based upon sustainably harvested natural resources.
Economic Botany
Donovan C Kotze Catherine H Traynor
134510241
The first plant bast fibre technology: identifying splicing in archaeological textiles
Recent research into plant bast fibre technology points to a Neolithic European tradition of working fibres into threads by splicing, rather than draft spinning. The major issue now is the ability of textile specialists and archaeobotanists to distinguish the technology of splicing from draft spun fibres. This paper defines the major types of splicing and proposes an explicit method to observe, identify and interpret spliced thread technology. The identification of spliced yarns is evaluated through the examination of textiles from Europe, Egypt and the Near East. Through the application of this method, we propose that the switch from splicing to draft spinning plant fibres occurred much later than previously thought. The ramifications of this shift in plant processing have profound implications for understanding the chaine operatoire of this ubiquitous and time consuming technology, which will have to be factored into social and economic reconstructions of the past.
Archaeological and Anthropological Sciences
Margarita Gleba, Susanna Harris
137854408
TOW LEVEL HYBRIDISATION FOR DAMAGE TOLERANT COMPOSITES
Fibre reinforced composites have higher specific strength and stiffness in comparison to metals. However, composites are susceptible to impact damage resulting in degradation of mechanical properties especially compression strength. Numerous studies have been conducted to improve the impact damage tolerance of composite laminates using modified resin systems, thermoplastic matrices, 3 D fibre architectures and through thickness reinforcement. This work is primarily focussed on incorporating non dissolvable polypropylene fibres (PP) in a thermoset matrix for improving the damage tolerance. Commingling and wrapping techniques have been investigated. PP fibres have been incorporated at the preform stage and hence do not adversely affect the viscosity of the resin during infusion. The healing effect of PP fibres on impact damaged composite laminates when heating is introduced has also been studied. High velocity impact test results showed that using commingled glass/PP fibres increased the total energy absorption of composite laminates by 20% due to the extensive plastic deformation of the PP fibres and through the use of toughening mechanisms in the form of resin cracking and delamination. It has been found that PP fibres provide protection to the glass fibres during low velocity impact loading, so fewer fibre breakages occur which lead to improved residual properties compared with pristine glass laminates. Compression after impact (CAI) tests showed that the residual strength as a percentage of non impacted strength increased with percentage of PP fibres used. For impact of 20 50J, glass/epoxy laminates retained 32 45% of their compressive strength while laminates with 7% 13% and 18% PP fibres retained 37 50% 42 52% and 43 60% of their compressive strength, respectively. It was also observed that glass/PP woven laminates had better compressive strength retention (62 83% than the glass/PP non crimp laminates (37 50% Composite laminates with high modulus PP fibres (Innegra) exhibited higher residual compression strengths in comparison to laminates with lower modulus PP fibres. For 15 50J impact, glass/Innegra laminates showed residual compression strength of 50 63% in comparison to 39 60% laminates without thermoplastic fibres exhibited 33 43% residual compression strength. Modulus of thermoplastic fibres appears to be important at higher energy levels. Healing of damaged commingled laminates produced a significant reduction in the damage area and a corresponding increase in CAI strength after heating at 200C; CAI strength of healed laminates is about 85% of undamaged samples in comparison to 60% for non healed samples. A novel micro wrapping technique, developed in this work, demonstrated significant reduction in damage area (46% in comparison to the commingling method. Core wrapped laminates had higher residual strength (43 60% than glass laminates (33 43% Better PP distribution in core wrapped composites helped to decrease the PP rich areas and the impact damage did not propagate easily in comparison to commingled composites. However due to the reduction in damage area, impact energy absorption in core wrapped laminates was lower than for commingled.
Erdem Selver
108814544
Evidence for a Stone Age fibre technology a closer look at the prehistoric String Theory
The aim of the present study was to take a closer look into the evidence for a theory of prehistoric string manufacture, formulated by the British archaeologist Karen Hardy in the article Prehistoric string theory. How twisted fibers helped to shape the world (Hardy, 2008) A problem with the article, with the relevance and validity of the presented evidence as substance for the theory, was the mixture of references and arguments from different scientific areas and methodologies. In this study three research questions are discussed, related to the overall idea of a substantial Grounded Theory of prehistoric string manufacture. They concern the validity of the evidence (RQ 1) the constitution of a textile materiality in the Upper Palaeolithic (RQ 2),and the support for a theory of a technological mind for plant fibre manufacture in the early Stone Age (RQ 3) The methodology for embarking on a mission to evaluate evidence taken from mostly fragmented or perished material calls for a reflective perspective, almost as in archaeological fieldwork. The analysis undertaken relates to the direct and indirect evidence postulated by Hardy (2008) but with added arguments from the author of this study, after deep reading of some of her references and new search for further arguments for the initial evidence. The analysis resulted in a qualitative evaluation of each of the perceived 9 proofs of evidences for a String Theory. Five of these got their substance from archaeological records and four from ethnographic studies, see figure 1 in Appendix 1a and list of her references in Appendix 1b. The overall evaluation of the evidence showed an uneven quality profile for their validity and relevance for the String Theory. However, there were some very good arguments and evidence for an early prehistoric string technology, even as early as 1.8 million years BP, based on the evidence of perforated beads and pendant as well as the long history of a string knotting technique. The reported evidence for a more advanced string technology/textile manufacture in Upper Palaeolithic, through direct textile findings and textile imprints and impressions in clay, has high quality as well as the findings from Mesolithic burials and settlements. The substance for the String Theory from the ethnographic evidence generally have a low relevance and validity due to the disparity in the reported methodologies and its more or less contemporary primary setting in tropical highland cultures from New Guinea. In conclusion, the answers to the study's research question can be summarized in the following way: the discovery and formulation of a prehistoric String Theory is a challenge for further research into the materiality and technological minds of the early Stone Age.
Eva Wigforss
128708799
Perished Material Vanished People Understanding variation in Upper Palaeolithic/Mesolithic Textile Technologies
The pilot project which is reported here was triggered by the author's curiosity of the origin and development of basic textile technologies in early Palaeolithic and Mesolithic hunter gatherer groups. The research question for the study is: Can comparisons of textile artefacts over a large range of areas and time spans tell us something about the early manufacture, use and development of textiles technologies? The methodology chosen for the study is to make a large scale survey of textile artefacts, primarily from excavations in Northern and Central Europe/Eurasia during three very different climate periods: the last interglacial period of Pleistocene, the latest glacial maximum and the first part of Holocene, the present interglacial period the timespan for the study begins ca. 30 000 BP to ca. 6 000 BP. In total, textile findings from 17 excavation sites are described as they were reported either by excavators or by archaeologists specialized in prehistoric textile analysis. The analysis shows that there is evidence for quite an advanced weaving technology in the earliest phase (30 000 22 000 BP) but then very little textile remains in Europe during the next glacial phase (22 000 10 000 BP) And again, during the latest phase (11 000 6 000 BP) more evidence of both clothing and a variety of textile items is shown in the assemblage of artefacts. The issue of continuity of textile technological knowhow and skills between the three phases cannot be answered by the empirical approach of the study, but it can well be suspected that there is such a transfer in time between the different cultural groups.
Eva Wigforss