 There's this recurring joke in the mechanical keyboard community about end game. Even though you know that the right keyboard could last you pretty much an entire lifetime, actually finding that keyboard is another matter entirely. I've tried everything from traditional keyboards to really retro keyboards, I've even tried some more eccentric designs, but they're not quite end game. And so today I'm going to try building one from scratch. So I've swapped out switches, keycaps, cases. One time I switched out a PCB microcontroller which was a whole thing, but I've never actually built one from scratch. And really what I'm looking for is just something that's completely unique to me. I want it to be compact, I want it to be hard wearing, and I want it to be absolutely amazing to type on. So the main components of the keyboard are a PCB or circuit board, got some key switches, keycaps, stabilizers, we've got a mounting plate, although this one's technically optional, USB cable to plug everything into a computer, and then a case for everything to sit in. So a keyboard isn't made up of too many parts, but actually getting your hands on those parts is another matter entirely. They're not really something you can just go into a store and buy, and to be honest even Amazon might be a bit of a stretch. The Chinese retailer AliExpress has a huge selection, but it can feel like a bit of a Wild West. So what I found really helpful was using popular mechanical keyboards forums, like the Mechanical Keyboard Subreddit, GeekHack, Desk Authority, and find their recommendations. Tools wise, also pretty straightforward. We've got screwdriver, soldering iron, plus a couple of soldering iron accessories, and then of course the solder itself. Oh, and I'm going to say solder rather than solder because, well you get it. Now keyboards come in all different shapes and sizes, but there are two main types. You've got full-sized keyboards, which include pretty much all the keys you would expect, and then ten keyless keyboards which omit the numpad. But there are also some more esoteric options, which you can go for if you don't mind having to deal with occasionally some weirdly sized keycaps. These tend to be described in percentages, and the higher the percentage, the bigger the board. So common types include 60%, 65%, and 75%. We're going to be building a 75% board, which I think strikes a really nice balance between compactness and functionality. Also for me, it's really similar to a lot of laptop style keyboards, so it feels very familiar. Step one, we're going to want to test the PCB. It's a good idea to test that your PCB is working before you solder anything to it. In order to test it, you want to just use anything that's metallic, that can connect the contact points and act like a switch will eventually. There are online keyboard testers that work great here, so just plug your PCB in and test each switch position one by one. Once we know that it's working, we're going to install the stabilizers into the PCB. Any key that's the equivalent of two letter keys or wider, like this backspace key, needs a stabilizer to stop it from wobbling around. We're using Cherry stabilizers, we just clip them together, slot them into the PCB, making sure we use the right holes, because this PCB supports different layouts. Costa stabilizers are another popular option, but I've found that they can be a little bit fiddly to attach keycaps to. Personally, I think both feel fine, but there are plenty of other opinions out there. Some people like to modify their stabilizers to make them feel less mushy, and you can also lubricate them to reduce any stiffness or squeaking if you're so inclined. So I'm not going to lie guys, this bit is a lot more fiddly than I thought it was going to be. Not only are there quite a few more holes in the board, but also just getting all the right pieces and parts of the stabilizer together before clipping them together is a little bit tricky. So we're actually building a UK or ISO layout, because I'm in the UK and I mean also it's just better. But what that means for the purposes of the stabilizers is the enter stabilizer is going to be vertical rather than horizontal, and we're also not going to have a left shift stabilizer, because our shift key is just that little bit shorter. We're also not going to have a right shift stabilizer, because that key is going to be shorter to accommodate an up arrow key to the right of it. So next we have the switches, which I think are the most fun part of the keyboard. I mean they're literally the thing that makes it a mechanical keyboard. It's the thing that defines how it feels and sounds, and there are so many different kinds. I mean there's Buckling Spring, there's Alps, there's Topra, but Cherry MX are probably the most common and they're what most DIY kits are designed to use. They each take different amounts of pressure to press and they actuate in different ways. It's what gives them their different sound and feel. Now I think Cherry's website does a great job of explaining the differences between their official switches, but the great news, although maybe not if you're Cherry, is that their patent has expired. So there are now loads of other companies and hobbyists making their own takes on Cherry's iconic design. One such company is Zeal PC, who manufacture their Zealio switches in partnership with Gateron. We're going to be using a set of their 65 gram Zealio switches, which I've been using in one of my other boards for a little while now. It's got this really nice tactile bump to it, kind of like a Cherry MX clear, but without the scratchiness and stiffness. It's a little bit more of a bump than a brown, but there's less of a click like you get with a blue. I think this slightly in-betweeny design gives them a really great feel, and it means that they're perfect whether you're typing or gaming. So actually installing your switches is fairly simple, but because this is my first build, I'm going to take a little bit more time to make sure I get it right. Remember, this PCB supports multiple layouts, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to test each position of the switches with key caps before I commit to getting solder on them and everything. So if you find your PCB doesn't have the little holes needed for these plastic legs, then the internet says it's probably fine to snip them off. Unless, of course, you don't have a mounting plate, in which case you should really have a PCB that does support them. It's finally done. Now it's time to flip it over and get to soldering. I'm kind of terrified. I'm no soldering expert by any stretch, and I'm not going to pretend to be. I've linked a video down in the description which I've personally found really helpful, but for your benefit, here are the general rules I found. Apply heat evenly to both the switch's pin and the electrical contact, and then apply solder so that it connects the two. We're looking for a nice, neat cone. Don't use so much that it turns into a dome, but use enough to get a good, solid connection between the two. And take your time. If the solder isn't flowing properly, then don't continue to apply loads of heat, because you could break something. Take a moment to let things cool down, readjust, and try again. You got this. Next, we're going to put it in its case. Cases come in all different shapes and sizes, but generally you'll find they'll either be made out of aluminium or, sorry, aluminum, or acrylic. This case is kind of the best of both worlds. It's part aluminium, which means it's nice and sturdy, but it's also got this transparent acrylic layer, which is great, because this PCB has lights, baby! Which, of course, I'll be turning off, because I work in an office with adults. Anyway, now we place the PCB and the acrylic inside the case, screw the PCB to the case, and finally just screw the whole thing together. So finally it's time to actually put some keycaps onto these switches. Now, when it comes to keycaps, if you thought we had a lot of choice when it came to switches, then you're going to lose your mind at the amount of options here. You can even spend hundreds on individual artisan keycaps, but for this build I'm going to keep it on more on the understated side. I've got a set of Enjoy PBT 9009 or 9009 keycaps, which I just love the retro look of. Now, assembling them is quite easy. You just put them onto the switch and push down. Now, these keycaps are made of PBT plastic, which is slightly more resilient than cheaper ABS plastic, and the lettering is printed on using a die sublimation process. That's not quite as good as double-shot keycaps that ensure the lettering will literally never rub off over time, but it's a lot better than cheaper laser etching, where lettering can wear away in less than a year. But what's important for our build is that this kit came with plenty of non-standard keycap options, which will fit our weird 75% layout. Now that everything's assembled, we can just plug it into a computer and test that everything's working. If we were being extra, we could maybe buy a custom-braided USB cable, but to be honest, for our purposes, any old mini USB cable will do just fine. We can plug it into a computer and use that same keyboard testing tool that we used at the beginning of the build to make sure that everything's still working. And then, fortunately, if anything's not working, which, you'll have to open it up and re-solder those switches once you know which one's the problem. A good keyboard design is timeless, and if you can resist the lure of becoming a bona fide keyboard collector, buying the right model can last you the rest of your life. So this is my first build, and I know there are some things that I could have done better, but I want to hear your thoughts. What's your advice to first-time builders like me? How do you build a keyboard first time and make sure that everything works? Let me know in the comments below.
 There's this recurring joke in the mechanical keyboard community about end game.
 Even though you know that the right keyboard could last you pretty much an entire lifetime,
 actually finding that keyboard is another matter entirely.
 I've tried everything from traditional keyboards to really retro keyboards,
 I've even tried some more eccentric designs, but they're not quite end game.
 And so today I'm going to try building one from scratch.
 So I've swapped out switches, keycaps, cases.
 One time I switched out a PCB microcontroller which was a whole thing,
 but I've never actually built one from scratch.
 And really what I'm looking for is just something that's completely unique to me.
 I want it to be compact, I want it to be hard wearing,
 and I want it to be absolutely amazing to type on.
 So the main components of the keyboard are a PCB or circuit board,
 got some key switches, keycaps, stabilizers, we've got a mounting plate,
 although this one's technically optional, USB cable to plug everything into a computer,
 and then a case for everything to sit in.
 So a keyboard isn't made up of too many parts,
 but actually getting your hands on those parts is another matter entirely.
 They're not really something you can just go into a store and buy,
 and to be honest even Amazon might be a bit of a stretch.
 The Chinese retailer AliExpress has a huge selection,
 but it can feel like a bit of a Wild West.
 So what I found really helpful was using popular mechanical keyboards forums,
 like the Mechanical Keyboard Subreddit, GeekHack, Desk Authority,
 and find their recommendations.
 Tools wise, also pretty straightforward.
 We've got screwdriver, soldering iron, plus a couple of soldering iron accessories,
 and then of course the solder itself.
 Oh, and I'm going to say solder rather than solder because, well you get it.
 Now keyboards come in all different shapes and sizes, but there are two main types.
 You've got full-sized keyboards, which include pretty much all the keys you would expect,
 and then ten keyless keyboards which omit the numpad.
 But there are also some more esoteric options,
 which you can go for if you don't mind having to deal with occasionally some weirdly sized keycaps.
 These tend to be described in percentages, and the higher the percentage, the bigger the board.
 So common types include 60%, 65%, and 75%.
 We're going to be building a 75% board,
 which I think strikes a really nice balance between compactness and functionality.
 Also for me, it's really similar to a lot of laptop style keyboards, so it feels very familiar.
 Step one, we're going to want to test the PCB.
 It's a good idea to test that your PCB is working before you solder anything to it.
 In order to test it, you want to just use anything that's metallic,
 that can connect the contact points and act like a switch will eventually.
 There are online keyboard testers that work great here,
 so just plug your PCB in and test each switch position one by one.
 Once we know that it's working, we're going to install the stabilizers into the PCB.
 Any key that's the equivalent of two letter keys or wider, like this backspace key,
 needs a stabilizer to stop it from wobbling around.
 We're using Cherry stabilizers, we just clip them together, slot them into the PCB,
 making sure we use the right holes, because this PCB supports different layouts.
 Costa stabilizers are another popular option,
 but I've found that they can be a little bit fiddly to attach keycaps to.
 Personally, I think both feel fine, but there are plenty of other opinions out there.
 Some people like to modify their stabilizers to make them feel less mushy,
 and you can also lubricate them to reduce any stiffness or squeaking if you're so inclined.
 So I'm not going to lie guys, this bit is a lot more fiddly than I thought it was going to be.
 Not only are there quite a few more holes in the board,
 but also just getting all the right pieces and parts of the stabilizer together before
 clipping them together is a little bit tricky.
 So we're actually building a UK or ISO layout, because I'm in the UK and I mean also it's just better.
 But what that means for the purposes of the stabilizers is the enter stabilizer is going
 to be vertical rather than horizontal, and we're also not going to have a left shift stabilizer,
 because our shift key is just that little bit shorter.
 We're also not going to have a right shift stabilizer,
 because that key is going to be shorter to accommodate an up arrow key to the right of it.
 So next we have the switches, which I think are the most fun part of the keyboard.
 I mean they're literally the thing that makes it a mechanical keyboard.
 It's the thing that defines how it feels and sounds, and there are so many different kinds.
 I mean there's Buckling Spring, there's Alps, there's Topra,
 but Cherry MX are probably the most common and they're what most DIY kits are designed to use.
 They each take different amounts of pressure to press and they actuate in different ways.
 It's what gives them their different sound and feel.
 Now I think Cherry's website does a great job of explaining the differences between their official
 switches, but the great news, although maybe not if you're Cherry, is that their patent has expired.
 So there are now loads of other companies and hobbyists making their own takes on Cherry's iconic design.
 One such company is Zeal PC, who manufacture their Zealio switches in partnership with Gateron.
 We're going to be using a set of their 65 gram Zealio switches,
 which I've been using in one of my other boards for a little while now.
 It's got this really nice tactile bump to it, kind of like a Cherry MX clear,
 but without the scratchiness and stiffness.
 It's a little bit more of a bump than a brown, but there's less of a click like you get with a blue.
 I think this slightly in-betweeny design gives them a really great feel,
 and it means that they're perfect whether you're typing or gaming.
 So actually installing your switches is fairly simple, but because this is my first build,
 I'm going to take a little bit more time to make sure I get it right.
 Remember, this PCB supports multiple layouts, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to test
 each position of the switches with key caps before I commit to getting solder on them and everything.
 So if you find your PCB doesn't have the little holes needed for these plastic legs,
 then the internet says it's probably fine to snip them off.
 Unless, of course, you don't have a mounting plate,
 in which case you should really have a PCB that does support them.
 It's finally done.
 Now it's time to flip it over and get to soldering.
 I'm kind of terrified. I'm no soldering expert by any stretch, and I'm not going to pretend to be.
 I've linked a video down in the description which I've personally found really helpful,
 but for your benefit, here are the general rules I found.
 Apply heat evenly to both the switch's pin and the electrical contact,
 and then apply solder so that it connects the two.
 We're looking for a nice, neat cone. Don't use so much that it turns into a dome,
 but use enough to get a good, solid connection between the two.
 And take your time. If the solder isn't flowing properly,
 then don't continue to apply loads of heat, because you could break something.
 Take a moment to let things cool down, readjust, and try again.
 You got this.
 Next, we're going to put it in its case. Cases come in all different shapes and sizes,
 but generally you'll find they'll either be made out of aluminium or, sorry, aluminum, or acrylic.
 This case is kind of the best of both worlds. It's part aluminium, which means it's nice and sturdy,
 but it's also got this transparent acrylic layer, which is great, because this PCB has lights, baby!
 Which, of course, I'll be turning off, because I work in an office with adults.
 Anyway, now we place the PCB and the acrylic inside the case,
 screw the PCB to the case, and finally just screw the whole thing together.
 So finally it's time to actually put some keycaps onto these switches.
 Now, when it comes to keycaps, if you thought we had a lot of choice when it came to switches,
 then you're going to lose your mind at the amount of options here.
 You can even spend hundreds on individual artisan keycaps,
 but for this build I'm going to keep it on more on the understated side.
 I've got a set of Enjoy PBT 9009 or 9009 keycaps, which I just love the retro look of.
 Now, assembling them is quite easy. You just put them onto the switch and push down.
 Now, these keycaps are made of PBT plastic, which is slightly more resilient than cheaper ABS plastic,
 and the lettering is printed on using a die sublimation process.
 That's not quite as good as double-shot keycaps that ensure the lettering will literally never
 rub off over time, but it's a lot better than cheaper laser etching, where lettering can wear
 away in less than a year. But what's important for our build is that this kit came with plenty
 of non-standard keycap options, which will fit our weird 75% layout.
 Now that everything's assembled, we can just plug it into a computer and test that everything's working.
 If we were being extra, we could maybe buy a custom-braided USB cable, but to be honest,
 for our purposes, any old mini USB cable will do just fine. We can plug it into a computer
 and use that same keyboard testing tool that we used at the beginning of the build to make sure
 that everything's still working. And then, fortunately, if anything's not working, which,
 you'll have to open it up and re-solder those switches once you know which one's the problem.
 A good keyboard design is timeless, and if you can resist the lure of becoming a bona fide keyboard
 collector, buying the right model can last you the rest of your life.
 So this is my first build, and I know there are some things that I could have done better,
 but I want to hear your thoughts. What's your advice to first-time builders like me? How do
 you build a keyboard first time and make sure that everything works? Let me know in the comments below.