Is Eagle Rock hotter, foodwise, than Pasadena? That’s a good topic for debate, and a point in Eagle Rock’s favor is the new Four Café on Colorado, on the same block as the excellent Colorado Wine Company and the as-close-to-New-York-as-we-get-around-here Brownstone Pizza. Four is an ideal addition to the neighborhood mix, an informal, order-at-the-counter café offering something that no one else is: modern American salads, soups, sandwiches and desserts made from vibrantly fresh ingredients, almost all of which come from farmers’ markets or local producers — and are largely organic and/or naturally raised. The commitment to sustainability goes beyond the ingredients: The owners (chef Michelle Wilton and her artist husband, Corey Wilton) used reclaimed wood in the casual interior, bought used kitchen gear and cook on energy-efficient appliances.
That’s all well and good, but does the food taste good? For the most part, yes. Wilton’s experience at Patina and Sona gave her a grounding in classic cooking and sophisticated presentation, which she’s incorporated into a seasonal menu that’s focused on stylishly casual dishes for less than $12. Salads feature a massive amount of greens — sometimes a little too much for balance, but their quality is excellent, and the non-green ingredients (flank steak with the arugula, crispy pancetta with the baby spinach) are robustly flavorful. Soups — spicy red lentil, chicken with spring vegetables — are terrific, and the sandwiches — like the pressed chicken with triple-crème cheese, apple and arugula — are inventive and carefully constructed.
Two groups who feel particularly loved are children, who get a menu far beyond the chicken-fingers basics (mini Caesar, shaved chicken sandwich, penne with butter and veggies), and vegetarians, who get creative, substantial choices in every category. Add tasty and inexpensive desserts and the lack of a license, which means you can bring in a bottle from neighboring Colorado Wine Co., and you’ll understand why it’s filling up at lunch and dinner… and will surely do a good business for breakfast, when it starts offering that in June.
2122 1/2 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, 323.550.1988, fourcafe.net. Modern American. L & D daily (breakfast coming in June). BYOB. AE, MC, V. $ – $$