IT’S not every day you have an audience with a king. And it’s not every day he
stands you up.
It could only have happened in super laid-back but bewitchingly beautiful
Or to be more precise, Tory Island — a three-mile long isle off Ireland’s
rugged northwest coast that still calls itself a kingdom and has its own
We had driven on a sensational summer Sunday morning through the marvellous
scenery of north Donegal — its fields and mountains the inspiration for the
county’s world famous tweeds.
Even my 16-year-old twins Tom and Ted put down their iPods and mobiles for a
moment to admire the towering gorse-topped mountains and heather-covered
“Wicked, pretty awesome,” was the teenage verdict.
Our destination was the tiny port of Magheroarty where the Tory
Island ferry makes the 45-minute crossing several times a day to a
little island that time has forgotten.
The ferry boss is Padraig Doherty, a man whose impish, smiling face implies he
could tell a few tales. And he did over a cup of coffee in the harbour cafe
while waiting for the boat to dock.
A few were about the man we were supposed to be meeting, none other than Patsy
Dan Mac Ruaidhri — the actual King of Tory Island.
Celtic legend has it the king was a real ruler down the centuries, settling
disputes and making laws over Tory’s population. But Patsy accepts his
current title is honorary and to entertain the tourists.
Padraig waved us off as his gleaming ferry set off from the little fishing
The ocean was as calm as a mill pond but the gentle swell still had us and a
few of the other 40 tourists making the sailing more than a bit queasy.
A reception party of smiling weather-beaten harbour hands greeted us and the
other passengers on to Tory and you straightaway felt like you were in a
different country — they were speaking Gaelic. All the islanders we met
switched between their native tongue and English but whatever language they
spoke they were friendly. Everybody wanted a chat.
Tory has a population of 170 in the east and west villages. Walking down one
of its main streets you are immediately back in rural Ireland of the
White painted stone-built cottages with brightly painted doors have stood for
decades battered by the Atlantic gales.
An ageing Merc is outside the King of Tory’s bungalow but he’s not in
A quick call to Padraig at the ferry port and he explains Patsy — a well known
singer and musician in pubs and clubs in Donegal — had spent the night “er,
carousing” and hasn’t made it back to his kingdom.
We even tried his mobile. But his royal o’highness must have been in repose —
so we went to explore his realm instead.
You can hire bikes but we decided to take a ramble to the east of the island
where the view over the sheer cliffs into clear blue ocean is stunning — and
hair raising. Health and safety hasn’t blighted Tory and you simply creep up
to the edge and peer over the drop.
Time for refreshments after the 40-minute walk back to the west village. First
a pint of the Black Stuff in the Ostan Thoraigh (Tory Hotel) which has 14
cosy rooms and a roaring fire in the harbour bar.
Then a real treat, freshly caught mackerel and salad for lunch at the island’s
Caife An Chreagain before another hike to the treeless island’s lighthouse.
Handshakes and “the craic” with the ever-smiling hands as we got back on the
boat to return to the mainland a few hours later. And as Tory disappeared in
the distance we realised we had really been to a tourist spot off the beaten
Our base for our four-night stay in Donegal was a family room at the superb
Rosapenna Hotel And Golf Resort at Downings.
The place is a mecca for golfers from all over the world, with two courses and
a pavilion overlooking Sheephaven Bay.
The restaurant overlooks the gently lapping waters of the ocean and to watch
the sunset over the water is heaven as you nurse a Gaelic coffee.
Non-golfers and their families can enjoy kayaking, surfing or just exploring
fantastic coves all a few minutes’ drive from Rosapenna.
And the Glenveagh National Park, half an hour’s drive away, is classed as one
of the finest in Europe.
On our last day, after a fabulous seafood lunch at the family-run Arnolds
Hotel in the bustling town of Dunfanaghy, one of the favourite spots we
found was Horn Head, a towering precipice with — yes, simply AWESOME — views
out to sea.
You find yourself just staring out to sea at the wonder of nature. And there
glinting way out in the sunshine was Tory Island — missing you already.
GETTING THERE: Aer Lingus have flights from numerous airports across
the UK from £29.99. See aerlingus.com
STAYING THERE: Rosapenna Hotel rooms start from 160 euros, including
breakfast. See rosapenna.ie,
00 353 7491 55301)