Faizal Kassam has worked in noteworthy kitchens (Hawksworth, Bacchus) and was chef at Cibo and Uva. Recently, he circled back to the place where he began his career — the former La Regalade property in West Vancouver where he started out as a dishwasher. When La Regalade closed, Kassam moved in and opened Terroir, offering rustic Mediterranean fare.
Q: What motivates and inspires you as a chef?
A: Being lucky to live in Vancouver enables us to experience all four seasons. The greatest inspiration comes with the change of these seasons. Having small farmers as suppliers (ranging from Pemberton to Abbotsford) motivates me to create all sorts of dishes using the different climates and products that offers. Whether it’s a single ingredient or a multitude of them, knowing that the season won’t be around for very long pushes me to harness and introduce new creations.
Q: How would you describe the type of food you like to cook?
A: Refined rusticity. Having been trained in French cuisine allowed me hone my technical skills as well as gain an appreciation for delicate food. For the past six years, I’ve been cooking Italian food — bold, rustic, ingredient-driven. I enjoy cooking traditional southwestern European dishes that have meaning and sophistication behind them. There’s a reason why timeless regional dishes have been around for centuries.
Q: What might diners not know about you?
A: Hmm. Perhaps the fact that I played the piano for seven years for the Royal Conservatory of Music. There’s a strong correlation between classical pieces of music and creating dishes that truly express who the composer/chef really is.
Q: Describe a couple of your most recent creations.
A: Since fall is right around the corner, I’ve introduced a duck breast dish that reflects fall. We’ve infused the duck breast with espresso beans, it’s served with a crispy skin and accompanied by slow-cooked celery root (first of the season) leek trifolata (soft, buttery and sweet leeks) and a hazelnut vinaigrette. Another favourite of mine is the halibut. Ocean Wise, sustainable halibut from the Haida Gwaii is in season which I simply pan roast to medium-well with a fennel crust and serve with fingerling potatoes, house-made crème fraîche, braised dandelion greens and confit shallots.
Q: What’s your favourite local product and how do you use it?
A: (Cooked) morel mushrooms which can be eaten thinly sliced over beef carpaccio. The other is to simply cook them in butter, chopped garlic, fresh thyme, Italian parsley, kosher salt and a splash of lemon juice.
Q: If there’s one important piece of advice you might have for cooks, what might that be?
A: Keep your head down and listen to your chef.
Chef Faizal Kassam’s Roasted Chicken
1/2 medium chicken, cage removed, wingtip and drumstick attached
2 tbsp (30 mL) canola oil
5 sprigs fresh marjoram
4 cups (1 L) crushed San Marzano tomatoes
1 lb (454 g) green beans, tips removed
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 bunch radishes, thinly sliced
½ garlic clove
1 anchovy filet
1 tsp (5 mL) capers
½ bunch Italian parsley
1 sprig fresh mint
½ tsp (2 mL) Dijon mustard
½ cup (125 mL) olive oil
Splash of red wine vinegar
Preheat oven to 425°F. In small saucepan, heat the canola oil over medium heat. Add sliced garlic and cook till browned on the edges, add fresh marjoram leaves. Add the tomatoes and reduce by half.
Add the green beans and cook further for 25 to 30 min or until the beans have softened. Season with salt and reserve.
Using a heavy-bottomed saucepan over high heat. Add canola oil; season the chicken (both sides) with salt and black pepper. Place the chicken skin side down and sear for 2 minutes. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook for 4 more minutes. Flip the chicken and cook for a further 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from pan and let rest.
Using a mortar and pestle, smash the garlic with a little pinch of salt until you reach a paste like consistency,
Add the anchovies and capers. Put the garlic, capers and anchovies into a mixing bowl.
Roughly chop the parsley and mint and add to the mixing bowl. Add the mustard and mix together. Slowly add the olive oil and season with the red wine vinegar and salt and black pepper to taste. Toss the sliced radishes with the salsa verde then toss with chicken.
Makes 2 servings.
Correction: In an earlier version of this Q&A, chef Faizal Kassam stated that morel mushrooms can be eaten raw or cooked. In fact, they are toxic if consumed raw.