A chic street in sexy Montreal
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Galleries by the score. A bookstore that’s as lovely as a painting. A winding, narrow street filled with cool hotels and chic restaurants that leads to one of the city’s top markets and oldest architectural treasures.
There are few places in North America as lovely as Old Montreal. And few streets in Old Montreal as varied and spectacular as Rue St. Paul, said to be the city’s oldest street.
Here’s a look at some of the options.
Galerie le Luxart – On a street rich with art galleries, this is a top bet for browsing. Katherine Kardif does magical, modern buildings in blacks and reds and blues resting in a sea of charcoal grey and white. One has a swirl of pale writing that looks as if it says Sun Tour, while other parts look Arabic. “We specialize in about two dozen local artists,” says the owner, Guy Bourget. Displayed artist Martin Beaupre features stark, alpine scenes with jagged mountains and what look like monks clad in deep shades of red. 66 St. Paul W. www.leluxart.com.
Librissime – Possibly one of the most beautiful book stores in North America, with mostly white shelves in front of exposed brick and stone walls and gorgeous books. The website lists the inventory as “Hyperstylish Books and Objects.” Gilles Tremblay takes only the best publishers have to offer. “They’re books as objects,” he explains. “It’s like a candy store.” Tremblay has travel, fashion and photography books as well as lovely tomes on architecture and top designers; even a book about cars with a cover made from old tires. Tremblay also has greeting cards, notebooks and candles. When we visited, there was a handwritten saying on the chalk board from Groucho Marks. “I must say that I find television very educational,” it read. “The minute somebody turns it on I go to the library and read a book.” 62 St. Paul. W. www.librissime.com.
Delano Design – A very cool shop, with wild hats that would fit a Royal Wedding, as well as nudes and wildly-coloured flowers featured in the art work on the walls. Lovely, funky purses with a real French flair sell for less than $100, while women’s shoes range from $125 to $200 for the most part. “I like promoting people just starting out,” said Elise Gabbay, manager and stylist. “It’s refreshing.” Gabbay says she’s always loved Old Montreal. “There’s a nice clientele, great restaurants and galleries. I tell people to try Rouge, the jazz bar down the street.” 70 St. Paul W. www.delanodesign.com.
Born-Neo – A shop that features smiling, wooden Buddha faces, African masks, colourful scarves for $12, funky jewelry and small, wooden pigs locked in the swine version of the kama sutra. An intricately carved, wooden business card holder purchased for $14 looked like a nice buy but broke within a day. “Lots of people walk by and look then don’t come in,” said owner Elizabeth Tran. “When they do they’re always shocked at the prices.” Corner of St. Paul W. and St. Sulpice. Website unavailable.
C.A.B. Deco – A popular spot selling modern-style, design furniture; bright orange or deep purple chairs, white tables named “Hello” (beats the heck out of Bjorn towels from Ikea), colourful pillows and more. 105 St. Paul W. www.cabdeco.ca.
Marche Bonsecours – One of Montreal’s — and Canada’s — most beautiful buildings, with a solid, white-stone base and a soaring silver dome. There are dozens of operators offering all sorts of local crafts, accessories and fashions in a bit of a madhouse atmosphere. 350 St. Paul E. www.marchebonsecours.qc.ca.
Verses – This spot, located at the Hotel Nelligan, serves an awesome and huge portion of braised lamb for dinner for a pricey $34. Great wine list and a lovely spot with great views of the street. 106 St. Paul. W. www.hotelnelligan.com.
Café Stash – This place has been serving Polish food for three decades. It was started by Stash Pruszynski, a former reporter who took what’s believed to be the only audio recording of Robert F. Kennedy’s assassination in 1968. Entrees are a reasonable $12 to $17 or there are set, multi-course dinners from $28.50 to $39.00. 200 Rue St. Paul W. www.stashcafe.com.
Santos – Tapas and a drinks menu that includes mojitos and sangria. Music nights, including live jazz on Sundays. 191 St. Paul W. www.ilovesantos.ca
Restaurant Gandhi – Indian dishes such as tandoori, biryani and vegetarian dishes in a bright restaurant. 230 St. Paul W. www.restaurantgandhi.com
The Basics – There are a couple of steakhouses side by each farther east; The Keg at 25 St. Paul E. ( www.kegsteakhouse.com) and Vieux-Port Steakhouse at 39 St. Paul E. ( www.restaurantduvieuxport.com)
Montreal Poutine – serves poutine with tomato sauce, meat and cheese or Montreal smoked meat, as well as other, um, interesting varieties. 161 St. Paul E. www.montrealpoutine.com
Hotel Nelligan – A trendy spot with exposed brick walls and lovely, well-appointed rooms and a great, cozy lobby. Rooms in early July were recently listed at $259 but check for packages and special offers. 106 St. Paul. W. www.hotelnelligan.com.
Le Saint-Sulpice – Technically, this place has its front entry on Rue St. Sulpice, but part of the structure rests on Rue St. Paul. There are 108 suites ranging from 550 to 1,550 square feet and many have a balcony or a fireplace. Rooms in early July recently were listed at $259 www.lesaintsulpice.com.
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