It’s too bad global economies are not reflected in terms of wine sales, because if they were, Italy would have something to cheer about.
As of 2010, Italy assumed the mantle as the world’s largest wine-producing country, relegating France to number two. In fact, Italy is now responsible for one quarter of the wine produced on the planet, delivering over four billion litres annually.
Wine is produced across the entire country, with value found in almost all of the wine regions. What’s more, Italy’s top wines have avoided the lofty price heights commanded by their counterparts from regions such as Bordeaux and Burgundy.
Even the great Barolos — one of the world’s most age-worthy wines — rarely crest the $200 mark, making them a bargain for those who have been shocked by the prices of first-growth Bordeaux.
Here is an Italian trio to tempt your palate this summer.
Lamborghini Era 2008 (Umbria) — $34
Umbria’s wines are constantly overshadowed by those of their Tuscan neighbours, but the area has a handful of excellent producers including Lamborghini, a name most would associate with exotic sports cars. The estate was purchased by Ferruccio Lamborghini in 1971 and passed on during the ‘90s to his daughter, Patrizia, who pushed the quality level to new heights.
The Era — named after the mountain that shadows the estate — is made entirely from Sangiovese and offers classic notes of cherries and spice: a silky, classy wine that one would expect from such a storied name. Try it with grilled chicken, pork or wild salmon.
Villa Matilde Aglianico 2009 (Campania) — $24
Aglianico is often called the Barolo of the south because of its ability to deliver big, full-flavoured wines that can age for years in some cases. Villa Matilde — arguably the region’s finest producer — offers a range of reds and whites that deliver remarkable value relative to their high quality.
This is a brawny red wine made entirely from the Aglianico grape, offering notes of black fruits and spice with a fairly tannic backbone. It will age well for another five years or so, but if you want to drink it now, I would decant it for a few hours and serve it with roast lamb.
Gabbiano Moscato (Piedmont) — $18
Gabbiano is best-known as a producer of inexpensive Tuscan wines, but in this case they have ventured north to Piedmont. The result is a delightful sparkling Moscato that is slightly less sweet than most examples out there.
I predict that, with Alberta’s new drunk driving laws coming into effect, everyone will be drinking Moscato because of its seven per cent alcohol content. It offers classic notes of white peaches and lemon, perfect with fruit tarts or as an aperitif.
Geoff Last is a longtime Calgary wine merchant and writer and a regular contributor to City Palate and other publications. He instructs on food and wine at the Cookbook Company Cooks.