Ah, Smoky’s Club (3005 University Ave., 608/233-2120, 5–10 p.m. Mon. and Wed.–Sat., $12–35)-one of a dying breed, it’s a real charcoal-killer place. The classic supper club-cum-steak house, Smoky’s is the type of place where the waitresses have been bustling for four decades and the bartender will remember your drink on your second visit. Big 10 sporting teams make pilgrimages here when they’re in town. The decor is simple but homey, and the atmosphere most definitely frenetic. Reservations are essential.