Question about Sharp Televison & Video
Will not turn on
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Sharp LC-42SB45U
You Have to check The owners manuals for both products to see if you are using the correct switching method to use your television with the surround sound.There is usually a setting for each unit that must be set for the correct signal path to the amplifier output to the speakers. The way to test this out is to use the first input on the surround sound unit for the television. Hook- up the output of the sound for the television to first input on the surround sound amplifier.Set the surround sound amplifier to the first setting and test to see if it is working. If still not working check the televisions sound output section in your owners manual and see if you have to set the output to the line out sound and turn off the television speakers output.If this is true make this adjustment with the on screen menu and test the sound again.If still no sound output there may me a problem with the output sound section of you television. You should then check the Sharp website for the frequently asked question and troubleshooting sections to see if similar problems have been posted for this problem and have answers.If all this fails you should contact customer service for both units and ask for technical assistance for your problem. Hope this helps you with your problem.
Posted on May 12, 2009
Sound like the TV is in protection mode. This happens when a part goes bad inside. the TV turns OFF to protect the other parts from being damaged.
Most commonly it's a power supply related issue. A bad capacitor or transformer on the power supply board is to blame.
For a do-it-yourself fixer with electronic experience, a Service Manual is the best for trouble shooting the problem down to the bad part. Normally, you can find it over the internet for less than $20.
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
SOURCE: I have a Sharp model
Voltages sometime increase/decrease during power outages. This mainly afftects the power supply of a lot of electronics equipment.
1. Check the fuse.
2. Check primary components like; Bridge rectifier, filter cap, switching components etc.
3. Check secondary (cold) side once you isolate the primary side to be ok.
Please consult a professional technician if you are not skilled in electronics repairing.
All the best
Posted on Sep 20, 2011
This is the Actual solution, not a try this deal. You need soldering experience, and a multi meter. First pop the back case off the tv and look to the left, you'll see the inverter. It's got 8 or so pink and white connections on it and a few other wires and a ribbon cable. Take all of that off carefully. Now take out the screws that hold the board on. Once you have it in front of you look for the power connector on the far left above that you'll see two fuses. F1 and F2. Check both sides of F1 with an Ohm meter. Most likely it's blown. Replace this fuse with another one and your TV will be back running again. If you're feeling really clever you should touch up the cold solder joints on all of the inverters, and across all of the capacitors, some of mine were cracked.
Posted on Nov 11, 2011
Hardto turn on"
This sounds like a very common issue.
If set is hard to turn on (takes several tries)but will eventually turn on hereis what my guess would be.
Every set has a standby power supplythat is running 7/24 if the set is plugged in and it supplies voltage to theremote circuit that turn on the main power supply for the tv and hence turn theset on.
This is an area where companies cut corners by using lower rated voltage caps.By this I mean Standby usually provides under 10 volts to trigger the seton----what they do is use filter caps rated at say 10 volts max in a circuitwith 9 volts (example)=with the standby on all the time the filter caps(electrolytic caps) dry out and fail.
The problem usually begins where you have to turn set on or or two times andgradually gets worse--takes longer and more tries to get it to come up.
Once on it will stay on until turned off for a period of time.
The caps will begin to work better (regain some of thecapacitance) as they get hot--hence one it is on it will seem ok.
The beauty of this problem is most of themhappen when set is a year or two old (no warranty) and all you have to do islook at the top to locate bad ones.
They are generally black or blue and round and vary in --they have twoconnections each--a + for positive and a - for negative--not unlike a batterywhich in a way they are. The + and - are marked on top and bottom of mostboards.
They are easy to replace and not expensive parts.
The tops are silverand metal looking with creases on top and if bad they will be puffed up ontop---tops must be perfectly flat with no brown material leaking top or bottom.
If this is your problem once you id them (make a drawing) you can begin.
Here is the critical part---on each cap is also marked the value like 220uf 10vdc---220 micro farad at 10 volts maximum.
If you find for example 6 puffed up and all are 10 vdc replace them with thesame value capacitance (like the 220 uf) but go up to at least in this case(from 10 volts) to a 16 or higher rated voltage cap.
The only issue is when you go up in voltage rated value the cap is larger sosometimes there is an issue of physical space for the replacement on the boardto fit them in.
The reason they cheapen these sets in this way is if 10 caps and you make25,000 sets there is a considerable savings in parts cost.
They do not care as long as it lasts past the usual one year parts warranty.
I have taken the time to be long winded because this really sounds like it maybe the problem you have.
See attached photo of a typical cap and if you have questions or need advicelet me know.
Posted on Mar 24, 2012
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