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Université de Tours, 3 rue des Tanneurs, Tours Amphi 46 JUIN 2019SESSION1Ingredientsof the Medieval Cookery (1): A session of the CoReMA program (Cooking Recipesof the Middle Ages / Corpus des Recettes culinaires du Moyen Âge)10:00 – 11:30Organisateur:LAURIOUX Bruno (Université de Tours, France)Modérateur&#160;: KLUG Helmut W. (University of Graz, Austria)Denicolò Barbara(University of Innsbruck, Austria) &#160;Modern Times? Ingredients in change between the Middle Ages and the EarlyModern Period. Approaches and first results of a long durée analysis on german cookbooks of the 15th and 16th century.In the project "'Von Speis zu kochen'. The cookbooks of the Herzog AugustBibliothek between the Middle Ages and modern times (15th - 16th century).Digital Edition and Analysis" will examine possible developments duringthis period as well as changes in the field of ingredients. The richWolfenbüttel collection contains several collections of cooking recipes, someof which are part of collected manuscripts, some are independent manuscriptsand most of them have hardly been examined to date.&#160; Eating and drinking are not only basic physiologicalneeds, but are also always connected with social, cultural, religious ordietary ideas. Therefore, historical cookbooks and recipe collections arerewarding and multi-layered sources for very different cultural, everyday linguisticand material historical questions. In respect to Early New Times researchliterature postulates a culinary renewal for this period in addition to themany political and cultural upheavals. However, these studies primarily referto the French-speaking world, and there is very little comparison to thenutritional history of the German-speaking world. Whether the findings coincideis to be investigated.The aim is therefore to find out whether this periodof general upheavals and changes is also reflected in eating habits? Are thechanges already observed in previous studies in the course of the late 15th and16th centuries also detectable in German sources? Do some ingredients disappearand come out of use? Are new foods mentioned? Which and how many spices areused? Are there any changes in the course of the 16th century? Are there"new recipes" or "evergreens" that are known several timesfrom older, widespread manuscripts? Which continuities extend from the texts ofthe 14th century to the 17th century? Perhaps not so much has changed afterall? The presentation discusses the dissertation project ofthe speaker. Therefore no systematic evaluations or quantitative data can willbe provided at this point, but only a few spot checks and initial observationswhich will heavily draw from the historic sources. Bibliography: Hieatt, Constance B. (2002). Medieval Britain. In:Regional Cuisines of Medieval Europe. A Book of Essays. Melitta Weiss Adamson.New York; London, Routledge: 19-46.Desportes, Francoise (1999). I mestieridell’alimentazione. In: Storia dell’alimentazione. Jean-Louis Flandrin, MassimoMontanari. Bari; 1999, La Terza: 336-347.Morineau, Michel (1999). Crescere senza sapere perchè:strutture die produzione, demografia e razioni alimentari. In: Storiadell’alimentazione. Jean-Louis Flandrin, Massimo Montanari. Bari; 1999, LaTerza: 449-464.Huetz de Lemps, Alain (1999). Bevande coloniali ediffusione dello zucchero. In: Storia dell’alimentazione. Jean-Louis Flandrin,Massimo Montanari. Bari; 1999, La Terza: 490-500.Hyman, Philip / Hyman, Mary (1999). La stampa in cucina:i libri di cucina in Francia tra il XV e il XIX secolo. In: Storiadell’alimentazione. Jean-Louis Flandrin, Massimo Montanari. Bari; 1999, LaTerza: 501-511.Flandrin, Jean-Louis (1999). Scelte alimentari e arteculinaria (Secoli XVI-XVIII). In: Storia dell’alimentazione. Jean-LouisFlandrin, Massimo Montanari. Bari; 1999, La Terza: 512-53. Tannahill, Reay (1979): Kulturgeschichte des Essens. Vonder letzten Eiszeit bis heute. München, Beck.Böhm Astrid (University of Graz,Austria)Common and not so common ingredients of German cooking recipesWhen it comesto the transmission of medieval eating and cooking habits, only a limitednumber of written sources are available. If one leaves aside fine literatureand concentrates on the technical literature of the time, references toeveryday alimentation can be found in the form of recipe texts, in some casesindividually but mostly handed down in collections, in travel reports, in stocklists, account books or in the form of menu lists recording special occasions. Recipe textsconvey the possibilities of what might be on the table, while reports such asthat of the Landshut wedding of 1475 or the Itinerary of Paolo Santonino(1485-87) bear witness to actual events and what was consumed on suchoccasions.In thislecture, these sources will be juxtaposed and the question pursued as to theextent to which the tradition of recipes coincides with that of other sources.Do the insights gained from the recipes concerning ingredients and dishes matchthose from the reporting of special events? Which ingredients can be found inthe recipes and which in the food lists? Are there deviations and how can theybe interpreted?The data fromthe Corpus of Medieval Cooking Recipes, which currently contains approx.3350 German-language recipe texts from the late Middle Ages from 35manuscripts, are used as primary sources. These are compared with otherhistorical sources that mainly focus on the southern area of the Germanspeaking countries: the travelogue of Paolo Santonino (1485-87), the menu ofthe Landshuter wedding (1475), the menu list of the Munich manuscriptBayerische Staatsbibliothek cgm 8137 (end of 15th century), a menu listfrom the so-called TegernseerWirtschaftsbuch, as well as the menu list of Graz manuscriptUniversitätsbibliothek, Ms 1609 (end of 15th century), a collectedmanuscript also from the monastic context. These sources and their historicalcontext will be presented in an overview. The ingredients mentioned in therecipes and lists are examined for their frequency, compared for agreement ordeviations and these results are classified with regard to the medieval eatinghabits and the carriers of tradition.Bibliography: Hörandner, Edith (1981). The Recipe Book as aCultural and Socio-Historical Document. On the Value of Manuscript Recipe Booksas Sources. In: Alexander Fenton &#38; Trefor M. Owen (Eds.), Food inPerspective: Proceedings of the Third International Conference on EthnologicalFood Research, Cardiff, Wales, 1977. Edinburgh: Donald, pp. 119-144.Montanari, Massimo (Ed.) (2012). A CulturalHistory of Food in the Medieval Age. London, New York: Berg.Montanari, Massimo (2015). Medieval Tastes:Food, Cooking, and the Table. New York: Columbia Univ. Press.Schulz, Anne (2011). Essen und Trinken imMittelalter (1000-1300). Literarische, kunsthistorische und archäologischeQuellen. Berlin, Boston: de Gruyter.van Winter, Johanna Maria (2007). Spices andcomfits. Collected papers on medieval food. Totnes: Prospect Books.Weiss Adamson, Melitta (2004). Food in MedievalTimes. Westport, Conn.: Greenwood Press.Weiss Adamson, Melitta (Ed.) (1995). Food inthe Middle Ages. A Book of Essays. New York, London: Garland.Ognibene Daniele (Université de Genève,Suisse)Economic sources as mirror of the availability of ingredients in theMiddle AgesFood historystudies frequently shares knowledge with economical sources, such as preciseinformation about food production, or consumptions and circulation on the localand international market. Among these aspects, one that should be emphasizedmore by the historiography is the foodstuffs transport. Looking at thebibliographies on food transport, what emerges is that many studies on thistopic didn’t aim at all on its implications within the food history field, butrather focus on its economic issues like the transport costs, or perhaps on thefood containers typologies and their fiscal implications. From thisperspective, food seems nothing more than a normal tradable good, although ithas unique qualities that differentiate it from the others products. Foodstuffshave, for example, a limited life cycle during which they evolve, changingtheir looks and even more their taste. Additionally, they normally requiredsome special care during transport – a fact that the medieval merchants knewwell – in order to keep their quality and edibility. Therefore, it would benecessary to reserve special attention on foods not so much as a merely“tradable goods on the road”, but rather as “eno-gastronomic products on theroad”. Freeing foodstuffs from a narrow economic view, would allow us toreinterpret foodstuffs transport as a real “vector of gastronomic culture”. Theanalysis of economic sources, in this way, would help to find out about aspectssuch as what were the main problems related to food transport, what was the mostsuitable shipment period, what were the foods preservation techniques duringthe journey and in what condition and quality did these food arrive at theirdestination?Followingthe most important medieval international trade routes from the origin of certainingredients to their final destinations at European households will shade lighton the market demand of certain foods and spices.&#160; Furthermore, in this way, it would bepossible to figure out how the interest about these ingredients grew up from theconsumers and how they became a part of several European gastronomicaltraditions. This journey will even be more exciting with a detailed focus onthe conditions of food and implications of food transport. In particular itwould be interesting to find out how and where foods were stored during thejourney and how merchants could tell if they have kept their freshness andquality or not. Moreover, as has been said before, one other fascinating aspectwill be that relating to the evolution of food during the journey, especiallyfor those products that were used to be carried in different evolutionarystage, like wine, that could be shipped in the form of must or soon after theend of fermentation process, or even later, if the wine typology allowed it.Bibliography: Giagnacovo Maria, Appunti di metrologia commerciale genovese: un contributo delladocumentazione aziendale Datini. Firenze: Firenze University Press, 2015.Tucci Zug Hannelore, Un aspetto trascurato del commercio medievale del vino, Studi inmemoria di Federigo Melis, III. Napoli, 1978. 311-348.Pini Ivan Antonio, Alimentazione, trasporti, fiscalità. I "containers" medievali,in Archeologia Medievale, VIII/198, 1985: 173-182.Ognibene Daniele, Prima della tavola il viaggio: vie di uomini e di cibo dal registro diNello di ser Bartolomeo (1391-1392), In Bolognae il cibo. Percorsi archivistici nel Medioevo della "Grassa",Antonella Campanini (a cura di), 73-97. Bra: Slowfood editore, 2016.Arn Mary-Jo, The emendation of wine: wine recipes from Beinecke MS 163 ("TheWagstaff Miscellany, The Yale University Library Gazette, Vol 64, No. 3/4,1990: 109-123.Varanini Gian Maria, Le strade del vino. Note sul commercio vinicolo nel tardo Medioevo (conparticolare riferimento all'Italia settentrionale), in La civiltà del vino. Fonti, temi e produzioni vitivinicole dal Medioevoal Novecento, Brescia, Centro culturale artistico di Franciacorta e delSebino, 2003. 635-663.Lombardi, Daniele, Dalla dogana alla taverna. Il vino a Roma alla fine del Medioevo e gliinediti Statuta comunitatis artis tabernorum Alme Urbis Rome (1481-1482),Roma, Roma nel Rinascimento, 2018. SESSION8 Ingredientsof the Medieval Cookery (2): A session of the CoReMA program (Cooking Recipesof the Middle Ages / Corpus des Recettes culinaires du Moyen Âge)11:45 – 13:15Organisateur: KLUG Helmut W. (University of Graz, Austria)Modérateur&#160;: LAURIOUX Bruno (Université de Tours, France)Pfeffer Wendy (Universityof Louisville, USA)Medieval Regionalism: Ingredients in the ModusThe Modus viaticorum preparandorum et salsarum(Paris, Bibliothèque nationale de France, latin 8435, ff. 24v-28v) is found ina manuscript copied on paper, whose watermarks permit a dating of 1380-1390 anda localization in the Languedoc, more specifically, the Toulousain region. Thetext itself was written in Latin, though with an Occitan flavor. This paperconsiders specific Occitan vocabulary in the Modus to fix more firmly thetext’s legitimacy as a sample of Occitan medieval culinary literature. Iconclude that some ingredients in the recipes suggest a text composed close tothe Mediterranean; the text’s use of a somewhat rare word, fromatgade,'cheesecake,' makes clear that the Modus has to come from southern France.Müllers, Fabian (chercheur indépendant,France)Compter et décompter les recettesmédiévalesThe cookbooks have multipleinterest. Although the lack of cooking time and dosages is a real obstacle tounderstand or to interpret these recipes. Nevertheless their analysis allows,by counting, to constitute classifications of ingredients or cooking methods.Metadata banks are created to better understand the cooking method and the useof ingredients. It is possible to work on cookbook and to question theircontent differently, thanks to chronological or geographical classifications.This approach allows toraise innovative questionings to understand thearistocratic diet during the late middle ages. The presentation is in French.Steiner Cristian (University of Graz,Austria)Representing historical knowledge on food as Linked Open DataThe core ofthe digital research strategy within the CoReMa project we is the Semantic Weband its possibilities to link data and thus produce knowledge. Once thecollected data is processed and implemented in an appropriate environment, itbecomes Linked Open Data (LOD). We are in the comfortable position within theHumanities that we are mainly dealing with food ingredients i.e. animals,plants and fungi, all fields of research that are provided with a sophisticatedamount of already established ontologies and Linked Data[1] including the general knowledgebases of Wikidata and DBPedia. Ontologies are also already being successfullyused to represent (Dooley et al., 2018, Sam et al., 2014, Ribeiro et al., 2006)and analyze (Hammad and Hassouna, 2011, Vadivu and Waheeta Hopper, 2010)cooking recipes, albeit with different focuses and granularity of data. In ourdigital research-approach, we partly rely on text similarities but largely onthe occurrence of ingredients, preparation instructions and time, tools,serving suggestions and medicinal, cultural as well as religious implicationsin the texts. The sheer quantity of semantics within one historic recipe showshow complex a semantic annotation of these texts is, leaving apart allphilological observations that can be found in the material. Besides theability to find links between resources that were not known before, a mainargument for the decision to put Semantic Web technologies at the core of theproject, was to ability to work outside of language barriers. Using concepts inthe sense of a notion, an idea rather than a term, we are trying to overcomehistorical and language constraints. For this reason, we needed to introduce aworkflow that reflects the recipes’ philological and semantic complexity.However, as stated above, a crucial point of this process is the humaninterpretation of the enriched entities and the decision for a concept.Therefore, the auto alignment procedure can only be viewed as a means to anend. Bibliography: Dooley, D. M., Griffiths, E. J., Gosal, G. S.,Buttigieg, P. L., Hoehndorf, R., Lange, M. C., Schriml, L. M., Brinkman, F. S.L. and Hsiao, W. W. L. (2018). FoodOn: a harmonized food ontology to increaseglobal food traceability, quality control and data integration. Npj Scienceof Food, 2(1): 23 doi:10.1038/s41538-018-0032-6.Hammad, R. and Hassouna, M. (2011). Multi-LanguageSemantic Search Engine. : 6.Ribeiro, R., Batista, F., Pardal, J. P., Mamede,N. J. and Pinto, H. S. (2006). Cooking an Ontology. In Euzenat, J. and Domingue, J. (eds), ArtificialIntelligence: Methodology, Systems, and Applications. (Lecture Notes inComputer Science). Springer Berlin Heidelberg, pp. 213–21.Sam, M., Krisnadhi, A. A., Wang, C., Gallagher,J. and Hitzler, P. (2014). An Ontology Design Pattern for Cooking Recipes – Classroom Created.Vadivu, G. and Hopper, S. W. (2010). SemanticLinking and Querying of Natural Food, Chemicals and Diseases. International Journal of ComputerApplications, 11(4):35–38 doi:10.5120/1567-2093SESSION15Frommedieval recipes to cooking : A session of the CoReMA program (Cooking Recipesof the Middle Ages / Corpus des Recettes culinaires du Moyen Âge)14:30-16:00Organisateur: LAURIOUX Bruno (Université de Tours, France)Modératrice: Pfeffer Wendy(University of Louisville, USA)KLUG Helmut W. (University of Graz, Austria)German cooking recipes as part of the medieval medical tradition of the MiddleAgesMedievalmedicine incorporates theoretics (theorica: res naturales and respraeter naturam – physiology and pathology) as well as practice (practica:chirurgia and materia medica – surgery and pharmacy). Thegrounding for both are the so called res non naturales, which in generalterms include various aspects of hygiene and dietetics – factors that have apreemptive effect on human health. Thus, medical theory revolved around thepreventive maintaining of personal health on the basis of external influences.The combining link between both the aspects of personal health and externalinfluences is the theory of humors, which also has its origin in antiquity.Especially Galenos’ systematization of humors based on their primary qualitiesand their attribution to the four elements made this medical system popularthroughout the Middle Ages. It provides a theoretical construct that bears thepotential of explaining all aspects of man, mankind, their environment as wellas the interrelation between them all. And above all, it corresponds to themain driving force of these times: christian religion.&#160;&#160;&#160; One aspect of these sex res nonnaturales that influences a person’s health is food and drink (cibus etpotus). The interconnection of food and health is convincingly demonstratedin our historical sources. Since Galenos various physicians have commented onthe health aspects of foodstuffs. Alimentation is a major aspect of medievalregimen literature. German medieval cooking recipes are generally handed downin composite manuscripts that predominantly contain medical texts and treatisesof various sorts for both man and beast.&#160;&#160;&#160; The presentation will mainly focus on thelatter sources and aims at demonstrating the connection of medieval healthawareness and alimentation. German cooking recipe collections before 1500, thatmake up part of the corpus of the French-Austrian CoReMA project (CookingRecipes of the Middle Ages: Corpus, Analysis, Visualisation) hint at a closerelation of medical theory and food preparation. The collection attributed to acertain Meister Eberhard of Landshut (Augsburg, Universitätsbibliothek, Cod.III.1.2° 43) is a homogeneous blend of cooking and medical recipes as well asdietetic portraits of foodstuff. Anthimus De Observatione Ciborum hasbeen translated into the German vernacular and is handed down in twomanuscripts (Salzburg, Stiftsbibliothek St. Peter, Cod. a VI 10 and Vienna,Nationalbibliothek, cod. 2898). Closing comments and explicit references incooking recipes as well as the combination of ingredients and cookingtechniques imply a close relation to the medical theory of that time. Finally,in the turn towards Early New Times the self-perception of cooks starts toreflect their role in the preventive maintaining of personal health throughalimentation. Thematic recipe collections and pertinent statements in theintroductions to recipe collections can be seen as the written manifestation ofa traditional role.Bibliography: Adamson, Melitta Weiss (1995), Medievaldietetics food and drink in “regimen sanitatis” literature from 800 to 1400,ed. Adamson, MelittaWeiss, (German studies in Canada. 5., Frankfurt am Main [u.a.]: Lang) 231.Ehlert, Trude (1990), ‘Wissensvermittlung indeutschsprachiger Fachliteratur des Mittelalters oder: Wie kam die Diätetik indie Kochbücher?’, (Würzburger medizinhistorische Mitteilungen, 8), 137-59.Hirth, Wolfgang (1982), ‘Die Diätetik imKochbuch des Küchenmeisters Eberhard von Landshut und eine deutsche Regel derGesundheit nach Arnald de Villanova, in Baader, Gerhard and Gundolf Keil(eds.), Medizin im mittelalterlichen Abendland (Wege der Forschung. 363., Darmstadt: WBG), 275-92.Hofmeister-Winter, Andrea, Helmut W. Klug, andKarin Kranich (eds.) (2014), Der Koch ist der bessere Arzt. Zum Verhältnis vonhistorischer Diätetik und Kulinarik im Mittelalter und in der Frühen Neuzeit. Frankfurt am Main [u.a.]: Lang.&#160;Poirier Corentin (Université de Tours,France)Ecrire les procédés culinaires en latin au Moyen ÂgeWriting culinary process in latin during the middle agesTheculinary recipe formalizes the sequence of steps in the preparation of theingredients that is required for the elaboration of a dish. The medievalcookbooks that contain them are privileged evidences to apprehend them. Thefirst known cookbook of the Middle Ages entitled Diversa genera pictaviensium salsamentorum, dates from 12th centuryand is written in Latin. Others latin cookbooks will follow until the 15thcentury at least and spread in the medieval West, revealing textual traditionswell identified today. The Liber decoquina, the Tractatus de modopreparandi et condiendi omnia cibaria or the Registrum coquina emergealongside the cookbooks more numerous in vernacular languages. In this context,the main point of my phd dissertation is to understand how cookery is writtenin Latin in the Middle Ages through the identification by specific terms of thegestures and techniques used by the cooks. I analyze them in order to grasp thesetting up of the writing of culinary processes and terms that translate themand their evolution.&#160; I underline thewriting of the recipes themselves both in their syntax, in their rhetoric andin their content. This communication will be in French, with a presentationsupport in English.&#160;LAURIOUX Bruno(Université de Tours, France)From recipes to banquet andvice-versa. A research project on a diner given by&#160;Gaston de Foix to Hungarian ambassadors(Tours, 1457)On 1457, atthe abbey of Saint Julien in Tours, Gaston IV, Count of Foix and one of themain counselors of king Charles the VIIth gave a diner to honor the HungarianAmbassadors who came in Tours to negotiate the marriage of their king,Ladislas, with Madeleine, the daughter of French king. Thanks to the crossedrelations written by chroniclers from French and Hungarian as well asBurgundian and Foix courts, we know the menu and have a precise description ofthe musical and theatrical entremets that was offered to the guests. Thisbanquet was indeed a “total feast”, which required using of view and hearing aswell as taste: its study links political and food history with sensory studies.To understand the multiple dimensions of this event, a multidisciplinary teamwas created in the CESR research laboratory. The first workshop, which wasrecently organized, highlighted an unexpected development: the concreterestitution of the dishes that had been served during the 1457 banquet. Througha controlled process of reenactment, the historians and other scientists areable not only to resurrect some culinary and food practices but to integratethese practices to the academic research itself.&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160; Bibliography: Le Banquet: Manger, boire et parler ensemble (XIIe-XVIIesiècles), éd. Bruno Laurioux, Agostino Paravicini Bagliani &#38;Eva Pibiri,&#160; Firenze, SISMEL-Galluzzo (Micrologus’ Library), 2018Emile Haraszti,«&#160;Une fête de paon à Saint-Julien de Tours en 1457&#160;», dans Mélanges d’histoire et d’esthétiquemusicales offerts à Paul-Marie Masson, t. I, Paris, 1955, p. 127-145[1] For an overview of ontologiescovering these topics see http://www.ontobee.org/,http://aims.fao.org/, https://ndb.nal.usda.gov/ndb/, https://agclass.nal.usda.gov/about.shtml,http://zbw.eu/stw/version/latest/thsys/70498/about.de.htmlall of which are connected to the Linked Open Date Cloud by proving its data inone or more serializations of OWL and/or RDF(S).&#160; 