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RIELLO Giorgio (ed.), McNEIL Peter (ed.)The fashion history reader : global perspectivesLondon : Routledge, 2010, 1 vol. (XXVI-566 p.)ISBN 978-0-415-49324-6MOND 503Résumé :History is uncomfortable with fashion and fashion frequently denies its own history. Why ? This path-breaking analysis presents the views of over seventy leading academics of many cultures and spans the twelfth to the twentieth centuries.The Fashion History Reader is an innovative work that provides a broad introduction to the complex literature in the fields of fashion studies, and dress and fashion history. Twenty-three chapters and over forty shorter "snapshot" texts cover a wide range of topics and approaches within the history of fashion, ranging from object-based studies to theory-driven analyses. Themes also move in and across time, providing a chronology to enable student learning.A comprehensive introduction by the editors contextualises the debates for students, synthesising past history and bringing them up to date through a discussion of globalisation. Each section also includes a short, accessible introduction by the editors, placing each chapter within the wider, thematic treatment of fashion and its history. There are also higly detailed further reading sections which encourage students to enhance their learning independently.Giorgio Riello is Associate professor in global history and culture at the University of Warwick, UK and Director of the Pasold Research Fund.Peter McNeill is Professor of Design History at the University of Technology Sydney, Australia and Professor of Fashion Studies at Stockholm University, Sweden.Table des matières :Introduction : The fashion history reader : global perspectives, Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeilSnapshot 1 : The study of fashion and dress, Negley HartePart 1 : Fashion's 'origins' : the Middle Ages and Renaissance, Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil1. The birth of fashion, Sarah-Grace HellerSnapshot 2 : Fashion, fabrics and the Orient, Giorgio Riello2. A short history of sumptuary laws, Alan HuntSnapshot 3 :  The 'fashion other' : jews in the late middle ages, Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli3. Codpieces and masculinity in early modern England, Will FisherSnapshot 4 : Objects of fashion in the Renaissance, Evelyn WelchPart 2 : Fashion and social order : the early modern world, Peter McNeil and Giorgio Riello4. Clothing and early modern Venetian society, Patricia AllerstonSnapshot 5 : Embroidery, women and fashion in the early modern period, Susan C. Frye5. Male headwear at the courts of Henry VIII and Edward VI, Maria HaywardSnapshot 6 : The stage, costume and fashion, Catherine RichardsonSnapshot 7 : The courtier and fashion, Carole Collier Frick6. Mapping the world : dress in Cesare Vecellio's costume books, Eugenia PaulicelliSnapshot 8 : Fashion in the archive, Janine Christina Maegraith7. Clothing the courtier, Jennifer M. JonesSnapshot 9 : Fashion in the Spanish court, Hilary DavidsonPart 3 : The fashion revolution : the 'long' eighteenth century, Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil8. Custom or consumption ? Plebeian fashion in eighteenth-century England, John StylesSnapshot 10 : Fashion in the museum : the material culture of artefacts, Miles Lambert9. Fashioning cottons : Asian trade, domestic industry and consumer demand, 1660-1780, Beverly LemireSnapshot 11 : Fashion and silk design, Lesley Ellis Miller10. Fashion in the eighteenth century : some anglo-french comparisons, Aileen RibeiroSnapshot 12 : Fashion, prestige, and the eigteenth-century beau monde, Hannah Greig11. Fashion journals and the education of enlightened consumers, Daniel L. PurdySnapshot 13 : Fashion and the eighteenth-century satirical print, Peter McNeilSnapshot 14 : Ideology and the dangers of fashion in early national america, Linzy A. BrekkePart 4 : Between luxury and leisure : the nineteenth century, Peter McNeil and Giogio Riello12. Artificial beauty, or the morality of dress and adornment, Valerie SteeleSnapshot 15 : Fashion, readers and the novel in the nineteenth century, Clair Hughes13. Modes of manliness : reflections on recent histories of masculinities and fashion, Christopher BrewardSnapshot 16 : Fashion, the factory and exploitation, Katrina HoneymanSnapshot 17 : Jewellery and fashion in the nineteenth century, Elizabeth Fischer14. L'Homme des foules, dandy, flâneur : fashion and the metropolis 1850-1940, Ulrich LehmannSnapshot 18 : The dandy, Olga VainshteinSnapshot 19 : Fashion and France in the Second Empire, Alex M. Cain15. Clothing behaviour as non-verbal resistance : marginal women and alternative dress in the nineteenth century, Diana CraneSnapshot 20 : Fashion, birth and death in the nineteenth century, Lou TaylorPart 5 : Westernisation and colonialism : the age of empires, Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil16. Fashions in late imperial China, Antonia FinnaneSnapshot 21 : Reforming dress in Peter the great's Russia, Christine RuaneSnapshot 22 : Clothing and ethnicity in colonial spanish america, Rebecca Earle17. British attitude to Indian and European dress, Emma TarloSnapshot 23 : Distance and respectability in colonial Australia, Margaret MaynardSnapshot 24 : Fashion and abolitionism, Alice Taylor18. The westernisation of clothes and the state in Meiji Japan, Ken'ichiro HiranoSnapshot 25 : Ottoman clothing rules : changes in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, Suraiya Faroqhi19. Western modes and Asian clothing : reflections on borrowing other people's dress, Verity WilsonSnapshot 26 : Fashion and anthropology : the case of Africa, Karen Tranberg HansenSnapshot 27 : Islamic fashion, Annika RaboSnapshot 28 : Orientalism today, Hazel ClarkPart 6 : Modern to hyper/ultra-modern : the twentieth century, Peter McNeil and Giorgio Riello20. Poiret's modernism and the logic of fashion, Nancy J. TroySnapshot 29 : Haute couture, Alexandra PalmerSnapshot 30 : The origins of the modern fashion show, Caroline EvansSnapshot 31 : Madame Grès : master couturier, Patricia MearsSnapshot 32 : Fashion as 'art' versus fashion as 'craft' revisited, Sanda Miller21. Nice threads : identity and utility in American fashion, Gregory VotolatoSnapshot 33 : Women designing modernity, Rebecca ArnoldSnapshot 34 : Fashion and the moving image, Louise WallenbergSnapshot 35 : Totalitarian dress, Djurdja BartlettSnapshot 36 : Fashion and film, Stella Bruzzi22. The self as image : a critical appraisal of postmodern theories of fashion, Llewellyn NegrinSnapshot 37 : Fashion and club culture, 1970-90, Sally GraySnapshot 38 : Fashion in the 1980s : a time of revival, Alistair O'NeillSnapshot 39 : Fashion and adornment, Michael CarterSnapshot 40 : Ethics and the future of fashion, Elizabeth Wilson23. Italian and Chinese agendas in the global fashion industry, Simona Segre ReinachSnapshot 41 : Made-in-Italy : between past and future, Giovanni Luigi FontanaSnapshot 42 : The contemporary japanese consumer, Toby SladeSnapshot 43 : Luxury brands and fashion : an un-nautral marriage ? Marc de Ferrière le VayerSnapshot 44 : Fashion branding : Ralph Lauren's stage, D.J. HuppatzAxe de recherches :Axe transversal : Cultures visuelles