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World Among the many other churches IN
Parma, two deserve especial notice. That of
San Gioranni has It's dome also painted by Cor
regglo, and though the freScoes are greatly dam
aged by smoke and damp, enough remains to
show thels original grandeur and beauty, and to
suggest their superiority in general breadth of
effect to those IN the Duomu Tie Church of
La Madonna della Steccata is the most beautiful
in It's proportions and decorations, which we have
vc. found It's ground-plan is entirely unlike
anything in America, being Greek Cross, the
four arms of which are of equal length, like the
Cross OF ST George, or the Algebralc sign of ad-
dition. In the centre of the Church, where the
arms Of the Cross intersect, rises magnificent
dome, and az the extremity of each is u gorgeous
altar. Columns and paintings enrich all the walls,
and the light is admitted so scantily that as much
more as is seen may be imagined. In one angle
is a figure of the Virgin Mary, Ito whom the
Church is consecrated) of the size of life, and
dressed in hoop frock of silver embroidery, with
hands loaded with Jewels, and surrounded by an
illumination of wax tapers, which burn night and
day.


The Camera di COueggio is room in the
Convent OF Benedictine Nuns, painted by Correg-
gio in 1919, under the commission of the Abbess.
The paintings cover the ceiling OF the room, which
is, ike that OF the Battisero, dome with sixteen
sides meeting in central point, The fancy of
the artist has converted this INTO an arbor OF vines,
among which are playing his tavorltc cherub-
like children. The sixteen angles OF the ROOF are
transformed into vincstems; their branches and
leaves nterlace into Il verdant canopy, and IN
their arcades are groups of children surrounded
by garands of flowers and fruits. They are
sporting with dogs, bows, horns, and other attrl-
butes OF the chase, On compliment to the Abbess,
whose arms were three crescents, and who there
fore thought herself another goddess DIANA and
are irolcking with each other in attitudes all dit
ferent, but all most cxquistcly graceful. One Is
irving to sound horn with distcndcd check, but
another urchin slyly thrusts his hand into the
mouth of the instrument, while the first puts and
blows in vain. One mschievous little rascal at
tempts to frighten his playfellow by suddenly
shouting in his ear; others sportlvcly wrcst-
ling; all are in action and all are most lovely.
More fortunate than other Children these dwellers
in 'Corrcggio's Bower like so many sleeping
beauties, under the spell of the only real magic
that of genus-have remained young and beaut-
ful for more than three centuries.


But the master piece of Correggios his Madon-
ma di San Girolamo or st. Jerome, in the Du-
cal Gallery, which forms part Of the old tarnese
Palace. The buildings are very extensive, but
gloomy and unornamentcd, with rambling ire
gular front of brown brick. Ascending broad
staircase, you enter the long Gallery. Through
its middle are ranged casts from the ancient sta
tues, and its walls arc covered with paintings by
various masters, mostly the scholars and imita-
tors of Correggio. The five productions of the
master himself are at the extreme end Of the long
suite of rooms, and you come to them by an
ascending climax Of admiration. Among the
preceding ones the best are by Guercino, Parmigi-
ano, Mazzola, Schldonc, and the Caraccis, and
subject is the verrepeated one of the Madonna
and Child, accompanied by various Saints; but
the unequaled charm which is here impaired to
this most bacnneycd subject is the highest tribute
to the powers Of the artist. AT the iect VI tic
Infant is knceling Magellan, the loveliest Of
all the ideals of that character Except, perhaps,
that one at Dresden) who with the tenderest re-
verence, is kissing one hand of the child, while
the other is playing with her flowing hair. In
the left foreground is the figure of st. Jerome,
who gives name to the picture, and other Saints
and Angels complete the grouping. The great
beauty of the picture, in addition to the perfcc-
ton OF its design, and the appropriateness of the
expressions is the indescrbable golden glow with
which it is pervaded. You might fancy that the
sun itself had been melted down and infused into
the painting which seems to rad!ate beams Of
warm light. The effect is unique, and never at
tained elsewhere, even by Corrcggio himself
His other pictures here are most admirable, parti-
cularly the Deposition from the Cross, THE Flight
into Egypt and the fragmentary fresco Of La
Madonna della Scala; but after looking at them
with all due admiration you find yourself return
ing again and again to the sunny ST. Jerome,
and at last coming to the conclusion that if Ru-
bens's Crucifxion' at atAntwerpbe hemost power
ful picture in existence, Corrreggio's Madonna
di San Girolamo' is the most beautiful


The Arch Duchess Maria Louisa was not in
her Palace, but nlomentarily expected on her re-
turn from visit to her brother, the Emperor of
Austria. On leaving the city we found the road
lined with soldiers in full dress, with sprigs Of
myrtle in their caps, waiting to welcome home
their sovereign. After an hours ride from the
gates of the city, we met two gallopng outriders.
Soon after came two plain and almost shabby
carriages, and in the second one was Maria LOU