Identification of metal threads from Croatian fabrics

Abstract This article deals with the analysis of metal threads in weaving from historical Croatian textiles, liturgical vestments, and folk costumes from the seventeenth to the twentieth century. The independent narrow stripes, wires, and the srma that was formed by a combination of metal thread wrapped around a non-metal textile yarn were collected and analysed. Using physicochemical method scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX), the metal composition and content in the threads were analysed. By cross-sectional analysis of metal threads by the SEM-EDX method, it was determined whether the metal threads were homogeneous, gilded, or silver-plated. The composition and structure of non-metal textile yarns were determined by light microscopy. Metal threads were primarily made of gold, silver, or copper and their alloys, but recently less valuable metals having a similar shine have generally been used. Non-metal textile threads in srma are most often made of silk, cotton, and linen. The aim of this study was to determine which type and composition of metal threads were used in different regions of Croatia, which can serve as a database for the restoration and conservation of valuable historical textiles. Also, according to the composition of metal threads, the technology of production threads can be determined and the temporal and spatial dating of textile objects can be determined approximately.