2020 Combined Japan Cup
# 2020 Combined Japan Cup

The 2020 Combined Japan Cup was held from 26 to 27 December 2020 in Saijō city, Ehime Prefecture. It was organized by the JMSCA (Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association). The athletes competed in combined format of three disciplines: speed, bouldering, and lead. The winner for men was Kokoro Fujii and for women was Miho Nonaka.

## Schedule

| Men | Men | Women | Women |
| - | - | - | - |
| 26 December (Qualifications) ||||
| 09:00 ～ 09:15 | Speed | 11:35 ～ 11:55 | Speed |
| 09:40 ～ 11:05 | Bouldering | 12:20 ～ 14:20 | Bouldering |
| 12:15 ～ 13:05 | Lead | 15:25 ～ 16:55 | Lead |
| 27 December (Finals) ||||
| 09:05 ～ 09:25 | Speed | 13:15 ～ 13:35 | Speed |
| 09:55 ～ 11:19 | Bouldering | 14:05 ～ 15:29 | Bouldering |
| 11:45 ～ 12:25 | Lead | 15:55 ～ 16:35 | Lead |

## Competition format

It was held to simulate the latest Olympic combined format. Athletes competed in a combined format of three disciplines: speed, bouldering, and lead. The ranks of the three disciplines were multiplied to give combined points; athletes with the lowest points won. Eight competitors with the lowest total combined points proceeded to the final round.

| Disciplines | Qualifications | Finals (8) | Notes |
| - | - | - | - |
| Speed | Athletes climbed twice in two different lanes on a standardized 15-meter wall. Best times counted. | Athletes were seeded based on the speed qualification results. Athletes climbed head-to-head with each other in a bracket format. | All competitors ran in the same number of races. |
| Bouldering | Four boulder problems. Time limit for each boulder was five minutes. | Three boulder problems. Time limit for each boulder was four minutes. | Score was determined by number of tops, number of zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones in decreasing order of importance. |
| Lead | A single lead route. | A single lead route. Time limit to climb the route was six minutes. | Score was determined by the highest point reached and the amount of time spent climbing the route. |

## Men

### Qualifications

| Rank | Name | Speed | Speed | Speed | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Lead | Lead | Lead | CP |
| - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Rank | Name | A | B | R | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 | T | Z | aT | aZ | R | HR | TFT | R | CP |
| 1 | Yuta Imaizumi | FALL | 6.97 | 2 | T5 | Z5 | ** | Z1 | T1 | Z1 | T1 | Z1 | 3T | 4Z | 7 | 8 | 2 | 40+ | 3.06 | 6 | 24 |
| 2 | Kokoro Fujii | 8.27 | FALL | 9 | T1 | Z1 | ** | Z1 | T1 | Z1 | T1 | Z1 | 3T | 4Z | 3 | 4 | 1 | 43+ | 4.09 | 3 | 27 |
| 3 | Masahiro Higuchi | FALL | 8.45 | 10 | T6 | Z6 | ** | Z2 | T2 | Z1 | T1 | Z1 | 3T | 4Z | 9 | 10 | 3 | 43+ | 3.46 | 2 | 60 |
| 4 | Hajime Takeda | 6.62 | 6.74 | 1 | T5 | Z5 | ** | ** | T5 | Z4 | T3 | Z3 | 3T | 3Z | 13 | 12 | 7 | 22 | 1.41 | 10 | 70 |
| 5 | Hiroto Shimizu | 7.85 | FALL | 8 | ** | ** | ** | ** | T3 | Z1 | ** | ** | 1T | 1Z | 3 | 1 | 10 | TOP | 5.47 | 1 | 80 |
| 6 | Ao Yurikusa | 7.20 | 7.20 | 4 | ** | ** | ** | Z1 | T4 | Z1 | ** | Z3 | 1T | 3Z | 4 | 5 | 8 | 42+ | 3.51 | 4 | 128 |
| 7 | Ryo Omasa | 9.28 | 7.01 | 3 | ** | ** | T6 | Z6 | T3 | Z1 | T1 | Z1 | 3T | 3Z | 10 | 8 | 6 | 33+ | 4.10 | 9 | 162 |
| 8 | Keita Dohi | 9.54 | 7.23 | 6 | T8 | Z8 | ** | Z6 | T1 | Z1 | T3 | Z3 | 3T | 4Z | 12 | 18 | 4 | 40+ | 4.09 | 8 | 192 |
| 9 | Ryoei Nukui | 7.21 | 7.33 | 5 | T11 | Z6 | ** | ** | ** | Z1 | ** | ** | 1T | 2Z | 11 | 7 | 9 | 41+ | 3.56 | 5 | 225 |
| 10 | Yuya Kitae | 8.97 | 7.64 | 7 | T11 | Z11 | ** | Z2 | T1 | Z1 | T5 | Z5 | 3T | 4Z | 17 | 19 | 5 | 40+ | 3.19 | 7 | 245 |

### Finals

| Rank | Name | Speed | Speed | Speed | Speed | Speed | Speed | Speed | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Lead | Lead | Lead | CP |
| - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Rank | Name | Quarterfinals | Quarterfinals | Semifinals | Semifinals | Finals | Finals | R | 1 | 2 | 3 | Result | R | HR | TFT | R | CP |
| Rank | Name | R | T | R | T | R | T | R | 1 | 2 | 3 | Result | R | HR | TFT | R | CP |
| | Kokoro Fujii | 3 | 7.08 | 6 | 8.37 | 10 | 7.91 | 5 | T1 Z1 | Z1 | T1 Z1 | 2T 3Z 2 3 | 1 | 42+ | 3.38 | 3 | 15 |
| | Masahiro Higuchi | 1 | 7.95 | 5 | 8.08 | 9 | 10.12 | 8 | Z1 | Z3 | T3 Z3 | 1T 3Z 3 7 | 4 | TOP | 3.48 | 1 | 32 |
| | Ao Yurikusa | 2 | 7.03 | 7 | 7.13 | 12 | 8.05 | 1 | - | Z1 | - | 0T 1Z 0 1 | 7 | 41+ | 3.51 | 5 | 35 |
| 4 | Yuta Imaizumi | 3 | 7.01 | 8 | 7.00 | 11 | 7.26 | 3 | Z1 | Z1 | Z1 | 0T 3Z 0 3 | 5 | 41+ | 3.48 | 4 | 60 |
| 5 | Keita Dohi | 2 | 7.62 | 5 | 7.39 | 10 | 8.19 | 6 | T1 Z1 | T3 Z1 | Z3 | 2T 3Z 4 5 | 2 | 41+ | 3.59 | 6 | 72 |
| 6 | Hajime Takeda | 1 | 7.09 | 7 | fall | 11 | 7.53 | 4 | - | T3 Z1 | T4 Z4 | 2T 2Z 7 5 | 3 | 29+ | 3.01 | 7 | 84 |
| 7 | Hiroto Shimizu | 4 | 8.30 | 6 | 11.53 | 9 | 8.99 | 7 | Z1 | Z2 | Z4 | 0T 3Z 0 7 | 6 | TOP | 4.39 | 2 | 84 |
| 8 | Ryo Omasa | 4 | 7.14 | 8 | 6.64 | 12 | 9.68 | 2 | - | Z3 | - | 0T 1Z 0 3 | 8 | 16 | 1.55 | 8 | 128 |

## Women

### Qualifications

| Rank | Name | Speed | Speed | Speed | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Lead | Lead | Lead | CP |
| - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Rank | Name | A | B | R | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 | T | Z | aT | aZ | R | Hold | Time | R | CP |
| 1 | Miho Nonaka | 8.40 | 8.46 | 1 | T2 | Z1 | T5 | Z1 | T1 | Z1 | T1 | Z1 | 4T | 4Z | 9 | 4 | 1 | 37+ | 3.10 | 3 | 3 |
| 2 | Natsuki Tanii | 12.97 | 13.43 | 8 | T1 | Z1 | T9 | Z6 | ** | Z1 | T1 | Z1 | 3T | 4Z | 11 | 9 | 5 | TOP | 4.34 | 1 | 40 |
| 3 | Ai Mori | 16.73 | 17.15 | 15 | T1 | Z1 | T7 | Z6 | T1 | Z1 | T1 | Z1 | 4T | 4Z | 10 | 9 | 2 | TOP | 5.48 | 2 | 60 |
| 4 | Moe Takiguchi | 13.24 | 11.21 | 3 | T1 | Z1 | T3 | Z3 | ** | Z3 | T2 | Z2 | 3T | 4Z | 6 | 9 | 3 | 27+ | 3.13 | 11 | 99 |
| 5 | Nanako Kura | 9.76 | 9.67 | 2 | T1 | Z1 | T3 | Z1 | ** | ** | T3 | Z3 | 3T | 3Z | 7 | 5 | 7 | 30+ | 3.54 | 8 | 112 |
| 6 | Mia Aoyagi | 17.96 | 11.59 | 5 | T1 | Z1 | ** | Z1 | ** | ** | T1 | Z1 | 2T | 3Z | 2 | 3 | 10 | 32 | 3.33 | 5 | 250 |
| 7 | Saki Kikuchi | 13.49 | 12.24 | 6 | ** | Z1 | T5 | Z2 | ** | Z1 | T1 | Z1 | 2T | 4Z | 6 | 5 | 8 | 30+ | 3.19 | 7 | 336 |
| 8 | Mao Nakamura | 11.95 | 11.34 | 4 | T1 | Z1 | T4 | Z2 | ** | ** | T1 | Z1 | 3T | 3Z | 6 | 4 | 6 | 17 | 2.06 | 15 | 360 |
| 9 | Miu Kurita | 14.04 | 13.12 | 9 | ** | Z1 | ** | Z1 | ** | ** | ** | ** | 0T | 2Z | -- | 2 | 15 | 35+ | 4.25 | 4 | 540 |
| 10 | Natsumi Hirano | 13.98 | 13.89 | 12 | T3 | Z1 | T5 | Z2 | ** | Z4 | T1 | Z1 | 3T | 4Z | 9 | 8 | 4 | 12.5+ | 1.05 | 16 | 768 |
| 11 | Ryu Nakagawa | 13.25 | 14.30 | 11 | ** | Z1 | T6 | Z2 | ** | Z3 | T2 | Z2 | 2T | 4Z | 8 | 8 | 9 | 29 | 3.03 | 9 | 891 |
| 12 | Miu Kakizaki | 18.90 | FS | 16 | ** | Z3 | ** | Z8 | ** | ** | T1 | Z1 | 1T | 3Z | 1 | 12 | 11 | 32 | 5.34 | 6 | 1056 |
| 13 | Yuka Higuchi | 12.50 | 14.99 | 7 | ** | Z1 | ** | Z4 | ** | ** | ** | ** | 0T | 2Z | -- | 5 | 16 | 27+ | 4.19 | 12 | 1344 |
| 14 | Kokoro Takata | 14.03 | 14.21 | 13 | ** | Z3 | ** | Z3 | ** | ** | T3 | Z3 | 1T | 3Z | 3 | 9 | 12 | 28 | 3.30 | 10 | 1560 |
| 15 | Momoka Miyajima | 13.59 | 13.19 | 10 | ** | Z1 | ** | Z3 | ** | ** | ** | Z2 | 0T | 3Z | -- | 6 | 13 | 18 | 2.56 | 13 | 1690 |
| 16 | Risa Ota | 14.35 | 14.77 | 14 | ** | Z1 | ** | Z5 | ** | ** | ** | Z1 | 0T | 3Z | -- | 7 | 14 | 17+ | 2.29 | 14 | 2744 |

### Finals

| Rank | Name | Speed | Speed | Speed | Speed | Speed | Speed | Speed | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Bouldering | Lead | Lead | Lead | CP |
| - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Rank | Name | Quarterfinals | Quarterfinals | Semifinals | Semifinals | Finals | Finals | R | 1 | 2 | 3 | Result | R | HR | TFT | R | CP |
| Rank | Name | R | T | R | T | R | T | R | 1 | 2 | 3 | Result | R | HR | TFT | R | CP |
| | Miho Nonaka | 1 | 8.72 | 7 | 8.52 | 12 | 10.47 | 2 | T1 Z1 | T2 Z2 | Z1 | 2T 3Z 3 4 | 1 | 28+ | 2.58 | 1 | 2 |
| | Nanako Kura | 3 | 10.41 | 8 | 9.89 | 12 | 9.33 | 1 | Z2 | T5 Z3 | - | 1T 2Z 5 5 | 3 | 18+ | 2.19 | 6 | 18 |
| | Natsuki Tanii | 3 | 12.76 | 6 | 12.19 | 9 | 15.47 | 7 | T2 Z2 | T3 Z3 | Z3 | 2T 3Z 5 8 | 2 | 18+ | 1.43 | 4 | 56 |
| 4 | Moe Takiguchi | 4 | 12.71 | 6 | 11.40 | 10 | 11.18 | 5 | Z1 | Z6 | - | 0T 2Z 0 7 | 7 | 27 | 4.34 | 2 | 70 |
| 5 | Mia Aoyagi | 2 | 11.34 | 7 | 11.74 | 11 | 11.59 | 3 | - | Z2 | - | 0T 1Z 0 2 | 8 | 23+ | 1.52 | 3 | 72 |
| 6 | Saki Kikuchi | 4 | 12.67 | 8 | 12.12 | 11 | 12.50 | 4 | Z2 | Z2 | Z2 | 0T 3Z 0 6 | 6 | 18+ | 1.52 | 5 | 120 |
| 7 | Mao Nakamura | 2 | 13.69 | 5 | 13.23 | 10 | 11.20 | 6 | Z2 | Z2 | Z2 | 0T 3Z 0 6 | 5 | 16+ | 1.27 | 7 | 210 |
| 8 | Ai Mori | 1 | 11.91 | 5 | 16.84 | 9 | 16.75 | 8 | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | 0T 3Z 0 6 | 4 | 10+ | 0.41 | 8 | 256 |
