2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships
# 2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships

The 2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships, the 7th edition, were held in Chamonix, France from 9 to 13 July 2003. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead, speed, and bouldering events.

## Medalists

| Event | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
| - | - | - | - |
| Men's Lead | Tomas Mrazek Czech Republic | Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Spain | David Caude France |
| Men's Bouldering | Christian Core Italy | Jerome Meyer France | Tomasz Oleksy Poland |
| Men's Speed | Maksym Styenkovyy Ukraine | Tomasz Oleksy Poland | Alexander Peshekhonov Russia |
| Women's Lead | Muriel Sarkany Belgium | Emilie Pouget France | Sandrine Levet France |
| Women's Bouldering | Sandrine Levet France | Nataliya Perlova Ukraine | Fanny Rogeaux France |
| Women's Speed | Olena Ryepko Ukraine | Tatiana Ruyga Russia | Valentina Yurina Russia |

## Lead

### Men

Tomáš Mrázek clinched gold medal after climbing 2 meters higher than the rest of the field. Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza won silver medal by edging out David Caude who took bronze. Alexandre Chabot placed 5th.

| Rank | Name | Nation | 1/4 Final | 1/4 Final | 1/2 Final | Final | Result |
| - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Rank | Name | Nation | R1 | R2 | 1/2 Final | Final | Result |
| | Tomáš Mrázek | Czech Republic | Top | | 22.50- | 23.55- | 9500 |
| | Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza | Spain | | Top | 20.64- | 21.29+ | 7600 |
| | David Caude | France | Top | | 24.24+ | 21.29 | 6175 |
| 4 | Christian Bindhammer | Germany | Top | | 20.64 | 15.40- | 5225 |
| 5 | Alexandre Chabot | France | | Top | 25.00- | 14.48- | 4845 |
| 6 | Sylvain Millet | France | Top | | 23.76- | 12.31- | 4465 |
| 7 | Ramón Julián Puigblanqué | Spain | Top | | 22.87- | 10.81 | 4085 |
| 8 | Evgeny Ovchinnikov | Russia | | Top | 20.64 | 10.81 | 3800 |

### Women

Muriel Sarkany took the win by climbing 2 meter higher than her closest competition. Six climbers struggled on the same hold: touching, holding, or moving off it. In the end, Emilie Pouget claimed silver medal, ahead of her teammate Sandrine Levet who claimed bronze.

| Rank | Name | Nation | 1/4 Final | 1/2 Final | Final | Result |
| - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| | Muriel Sarkany | Belgium | Top | Top | 24.60- | 8400 |
| | Emilie Pouget | France | Top | 18.15- | 22.27+ | 6720 |
| | Sandrine Levet | France | Top | Top | 22.27 | 5460 |
| 4 | Jenny Lavarda | Italy | Top | 18.15 | 22.27- | 4620 |
| 5 | Alexandra Eyer | Switzerland | Top | 18.15- | 22.27- | 4284 |
| 6 | Caroline Ciavaldini | France | Top | 16.94 | 22.27- | 3948 |
| 7 | Angela Eiter | Austria | Top | 16.94- | 22.27- | 3612 |
| 8 | Barbara Bacher | Austria | Top | 17.42+ | 20.12 | 3360 |
| 9 | Emily Harrington | United States | Top | 16.94- | 17.72- | 3108 |
| 10 | Olga Shalagina | Ukraine | Top | 16.94- | 7.26- | 2856 |

## Bouldering

Bouldering scores were decided by number of tops, number of attempts to tops, number of zones, and number of attempts to zones in decreasing order of importance.

### Men

Christian Core sent four boulder problems in the final round and won gold medal after edging out Jérôme Meyer by one less attempt. Tomasz Oleksy placed 3rd.

| Rank | Name | Nation | Qualification | Qualification | Qualification | Qualification | Qualification | Final | Final | Final | Final | Result |
| - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Rank | Name | Nation | Top | TA | Zone | ZA | Rank | Top | TA | Zone | ZA | Result |
| | Christian Core | Italy | 1 | 1 | 6 | 9 | 11 | 4 | 7 | 5 | 7 | 7900 |
| | Jérôme Meyer | France | 2 | 2 | 6 | 14 | 6 | 4 | 8 | 6 | 7 | 6320 |
| | Tomasz Oleksy | Poland | 3 | 3 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 5 | 8 | 5135 |
| 4 | Mauro Calibani | Italy | 4 | 9 | 5 | 10 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 7 | 4345 |
| 5 | Kilian Fischhuber | Austria | 2 | 5 | 4 | 8 | 10 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 4029 |
| 6 | Serik Kazbekov | Ukraine | 4 | 8 | 6 | 8 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 4 | 6 | 3713 |
| 7 | Salavat Rakhmetov | Russia | 4 | 6 | 6 | 8 | 1 | 3 | 6 | 6 | 11 | 3397 |
| 8 | Akito Matsushima | Japan | 3 | 4 | 5 | 8 | 5 | 3 | 7 | 4 | 8 | 3160 |
| 9 | Stephane Julien | France | 2 | 4 | 4 | 10 | 9 | 2 | 2 | 4 | 8 | 2923 |
| 10 | Andrew Earl | Great Britain | 2 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 7 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 9 | 2686 |
| 11 | Alexander Meikl | Austria | 1 | 1 | 4 | 9 | 12 | 2 | 8 | 4 | 14 | 2449 |
| 12 | Georgos Progulakis | Italy | 2 | 4 | 6 | 11 | 8 | 0 | 0 | 2 | 8 | 2212 |

### Women

Sandrine Levet topped 5 boulder problems in the final round, securing a gold medal. Nataliya Perlova sent 3 problems and placed second, while Fanny Rogeaux sent 2 problems in two attempts claiming third place.

| Rank | Name | Nation | Qualification | Qualification | Qualification | Qualification | Qualification | Final | Final | Final | Final | Result |
| - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Rank | Name | Nation | Top | TA | Zone | ZA | Rank | Top | TA | Zone | ZA | Result |
| | Sandrine Levet | France | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 1 | 5 | 14 | 6 | 13 | 7600 |
| | Nataliya Perlova | Ukraine | 5 | 8 | 6 | 8 | 12 | 3 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 6080 |
| | Fanny Rogeaux | France | 6 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 3 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 4940 |
| 4 | Olga Bibik | Russia | 5 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 10 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 6 | 4180 |
| 5 | Juliette Danion | France | 5 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 11 | 2 | 4 | 5 | 16 | 3876 |
| 6 | Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova | Czech Republic | 6 | 9 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 3572 |
| 7 | Venera Chereshneva | Russia | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 4 | 3268 |
| 8 | Olga Shalagina | Ukraine | 6 | 9 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 1 | 2 | 4 | 7 | 3040 |
| 9 | Myriam Motteau | France | 6 | 9 | 6 | 8 | 7 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 2812 |
| 10 | Yulia Abramchuk | Russia | 6 | 9 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 4 | 2584 |
| 11 | Stella Marchisio | Italy | 5 | 5 | 6 | 6 | 9 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 7 | 2356 |
| 12 | Corinne Theroux | France | 6 | 10 | 6 | 9 | 8 | 1 | 6 | 4 | 11 | 2128 |

## Speed

### Men

Maksym Styenkovvy took the win. Tomasz Oleksy placed second and Alexander Peshekhonov placed third.

| Rank | Name | Nation | Qual. | 1/2-Final | small Final | Final | Result |
| - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| | Maksym Styenkovyy | Ukraine | 28.81 | 25.97 | 21.55 | 21.31 | 5500 |
| | Tomasz Oleksy | Poland | 32.15 | 25.96 | 24.31 | 25.71 | 4400 |
| | Alexander Peshekhonov | Russia | 32.74 | 26.96 | 22.11 | | 3575 |
| 4 | Oleksandr Salimov | Ukraine | 35.20 | 28.74 | 27.43 | | 3025 |
| 5 | Alexei Gadeev | Russia | 31.05 | 29.66 | | | 2805 |
| 6 | Dmytro Konovalov | Ukraine | 34.53 | 26.72 | | | 2585 |
| 7 | Sergei Sinitcyn | Russia | 28.29 | 31.74 | | | 2365 |
| 8 | Iakov Soubbotine | Russia | 26.64 | 27.01 | | | 2200 |
| 9 | Yevgen Kryvosheytsev | Ukraine | 29.01 | 27.19 | | | 2035 |
| 10 | Csaba Komondi | Hungary | 32.53 | 30.03 | | | 1870 |
| 11 | Alexandre Chaoulsky | Russia | 28.46 | 30.87 | | | 1705 |
| 12 | Ivan Shyshkovskyy | Ukraine | 40.25 | 34.18 | | | 1540 |
| 13 | Salah Boulbahaiem | Belgium | 48.95 | 42.32 | | | 1430 |
| 14 | Mathieu Dutray | France | 34.80 | elim. | | | 1320 |
| 14 | Nicolas Januel | France | 33.84 | elim. | | | 1320 |
| 14 | Andrzej Mecherzynski-Wiktor | Poland | 33.45 | elim. | | | 1320 |
| 17 | C. M. Praveen | India | 49.98 | | | | 1008 |
| 18 | Kyrylo Shevchenko | Ukraine | elim. | | | | 896 |

### Women

Olena Ryepko took the win. Tatiana Ruyga placed second and Yurina Valentina third.

| Rank | Name | Nation | Qual. | small Final | Final | Result |
| - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| | Olena Ryepko | Ukraine | 43.57 | 37.15 | 35.76 | 3300 |
| | Tatiana Ruyga | Russia | 44.38 | 37.86 | 37.68 | 2640 |
| | Valentina Yurina | Russia | 43.72 | 42.25 | | 2145 |
| 4 | Olga Zakharova | Ukraine | 43.09 | 38.86 | | 1815 |
| 5 | Mayya Piratinskaya | Russia | 45.38 | | | 1683 |
| 6 | Olga Bezhko | Ukraine | 53.68 | | | 1551 |
| 7 | Edyta Ropek | Poland | 48.96 | | | 1419 |
| 8 | Olena Ostapenko | Ukraine | 51.14 | | | 1320 |
| 9 | Svetlana Sutkina | Russia | 53.83 | | | 1776 |
| 10 | Agung Ethi Hendrawati | Indonesia | 57.45 | | | 1632 |
| 11 | Sabine Knabl | Austria | 59.22 | | | 1488 |
| 12 | Nataliya Perlova | Ukraine | 60.54 | | | 1344 |
| 13 | M. N. Vathsala | India | 86.02 | | | 1248 |
| 14 | Bangalore Subbarao Archana | India | elim. | | | 1152 |
| 14 | Anna Stenkovaya | Russia | elim. | | | 1152 |
