Ptarmigan Traverse
# Ptarmigan Traverse

Ptarmigan Traverse is an alpine climbing route in the North Cascades of Washington state. The route, from Cascade Pass to Dome Peak, is generally remote, unmarked, and challenging, traversing rugged terrain and several glaciers.

## History

The first traverse took 13 days in July 1938. The group consisted of four members of the Ptarmigan Climbing Club: Bill Cox, Calder Bressler, Ray W. Clough, and Tom Myers. The second traverse was in 1953 and consisted of Dale Cole, Bob Grant, Mike Hane, Erick Karlsson and Tom Miller. Miller took high-quality photos of the peaks, valleys, glaciers, and lakes, which were later published in a book by The Mountaineers. The book, called The North Cascades, was published in 1964 and proved instrumental in the bid to create the North Cascades National Park.

The route is named after an alpine bird, the rock ptarmigan. The "p" is silent and is pronounced "TAR-mig-an".

The third successful traverse of the route was made in 1958 by a party led by photographer Ira Spring, with Coleman Leuthy, Ray and Marge McConnell, Peggy Stark and Russell Bockman. The trip was described in an article published in The Saturday Evening Post that was illustrated with Spring's stunning photos of the trip. Today the route is a common goal of Cascade Range mountaineers.

## Route

Place names are listed from north to south:

### Cascade Pass area

* Buckner Mountain (9,091 feet (2,771 m)) – 48°29′43″N 120°59′53″W﻿ / ﻿48.4951508°N 120.9979393°W﻿ / 48.4951508; -120.9979393﻿ (Buckner Mountain)48°29′39″N 121°00′02″W﻿ / ﻿48.4942472°N 121.0004337°W﻿ / 48.4942472; -121.0004337﻿ (Horseshoe Peak)
* Boston Peak (8,845 feet (2,696 m)) – 48°29′45″N 121°02′09″W﻿ / ﻿48.4958308°N 121.0357868°W﻿ / 48.4958308; -121.0357868﻿ (Boston Peak)
* Sahale Peak (8,680 feet (2,650 m)) – 48°29′28″N 121°02′19″W﻿ / ﻿48.491113°N 121.038632°W﻿ / 48.491113; -121.038632﻿ (Sahale Peak)
* Cascade Pass (5,351 feet (1,631 m)) – 48°28′04″N 121°03′36″W﻿ / ﻿48.4679040°N 121.0601123°W﻿ / 48.4679040; -121.0601123﻿ (Cascade Pass) - last improved trail
* Mixup Peak (7,440 feet (2,270 m)) – 48°27′14″N 121°03′37″W﻿ / ﻿48.45389°N 121.060353°W﻿ / 48.45389; -121.060353﻿ (Mixup Peak)
* Cache Col (6,903 feet (2,104 m)) – 48°26′54″N 121°03′10″W﻿ / ﻿48.4484594°N 121.0528892°W﻿ / 48.4484594; -121.0528892﻿ (Cache Col) - boundary between North Cascades National Park and Glacier Peak Wilderness
* Magic Mountain (7,618 feet (2,322 m)) – 48°26′45″N 121°02′28″W﻿ / ﻿48.4457262°N 121.0410560°W﻿ / 48.4457262; -121.0410560﻿ (Magic Mountain)
* Pelton Peak (7,132 feet (2,174 m)) – 48°26′55″N 121°01′57″W﻿ / ﻿48.4486751°N 121.0325950°W﻿ / 48.4486751; -121.0325950﻿ (Pelton Peak)

### Middle Cascade area

* Hurry-up Peak (7,818 feet (2,383 m)) – 48°26′02″N 121°02′16″W﻿ / ﻿48.4339524°N 121.0378950°W﻿ / 48.4339524; -121.0378950﻿ (Hurry-up Peak)
* Middle Cascade Glacier (5,748 feet (1,752 m)) – 48°25′11″N 121°03′16″W﻿ / ﻿48.4198477°N 121.0545548°W﻿ / 48.4198477; -121.0545548﻿ (Middle Cascade Glacier)
* Mount Formidable (8,340 feet (2,540 m)) – 48°24′58″N 121°04′01″W﻿ / ﻿48.4162304°N 121.0669530°W﻿ / 48.4162304; -121.0669530﻿ (Mount Formidable)
* Spider Mountain (8,291 feet (2,527 m)) – 48°24′34″N 121°02′10″W﻿ / ﻿48.4094435°N 121.0360771°W﻿ / 48.4094435; -121.0360771﻿ (Spider Mountain)

### South Cascade area

* Le Conte Mountain (7,739 feet (2,359 m)) – 48°22′45″N 121°03′42″W﻿ / ﻿48.3792°N 121.0618°W﻿ / 48.3792; -121.0618﻿ (LeConte Mountain)
* LeConte Glacier (7,434 feet (2,266 m)) – 48°21′49″N 121°02′08″W﻿ / ﻿48.3637364°N 121.0356633°W﻿ / 48.3637364; -121.0356633﻿ (LeConte Glacier)
* Sentinel Peak (8,205 feet (2,501 m)) – 48°21′22″N 121°02′25″W﻿ / ﻿48.3562361°N 121.0403855°W﻿ / 48.3562361; -121.0403855﻿ (Sentinel Peak)
* South Cascade Glacier (6,138 feet (1,871 m)) – 48°21′36″N 121°03′27″W﻿ / ﻿48.3601244°N 121.0576082°W﻿ / 48.3601244; -121.0576082﻿ (South Cascade Glacier) - largest glacier on route after Chickamin Glacier on Dome Peak
* White Rock Lakes (6,197 feet (1,889 m)) – 48°20′27″N 121°03′25″W﻿ / ﻿48.3407393°N 121.0569598°W﻿ / 48.3407393; -121.0569598﻿ (White Rock Lakes)

### Dome area

* Dana Glacier (6,735 feet (2,053 m)) – 48°19′09″N 121°03′05″W﻿ / ﻿48.3192906°N 121.0514954°W﻿ / 48.3192906; -121.0514954﻿ (Dana Glacier)
* Spire Point (8,146 feet (2,483 m)) – 48°19′03″N 121°04′16″W﻿ / ﻿48.3176231°N 121.0712180°W﻿ / 48.3176231; -121.0712180﻿ (Spire Point)
* Dome Peak (8,852 feet (2,698 m)) – 48°18′06″N 121°01′54″W﻿ / ﻿48.3017912°N 121.0317721°W﻿ / 48.3017912; -121.0317721﻿ (Dome Peak)
