So the drinks are ok and the food is fine and it's conveniently located and the service is good.\n\nSo what doesn't work about this place?\n\nThe very notion of postmodern clear-surfaced restraint applied to the inherent and necessary tackiness of a tiki bar. That's what doesn't work.\n\nTiki bars aren't places you see profiled in Modern Architecture. They are the bottom of the barrel of grandiose American bourgeois self-indulgence. Yeah, and the drinks should be exotic and strong. That goes without saying. But you can have a Zombie or a Dr. Funk of Tahiti in any Hilton. You go to a tiki bar to remind yourself of how tacky previous generations were in their attempts to stretch beyond the blandness of plaid polyester slacks from JC Penney and Oldsmobile 88's without leaving Des Moines.  \n\nTo appreciate the tiki bar today we must approach with irony. However, Hula represents an irony in itself: A contradiction that is unresolved and leaves one asking \"why?\"