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  A million thoughts fill your head when you’re immersed in the field. Some become notes; fewer still make it into scientific papers. The rest must find other paths out into the world.
  My ‘home-from-home’ in Bogotá’s historic La Candelaria district, which boasts strong character and even stronger coffee!
  I bristle to what must be at least thirty cats, howling in the way that I have only ever heard dogs mourn the loss of their ancestral freedom. But there is no mistaking this doppler cry for el perro, or even the growl of el tigre [1], from whom this city was wrested long before she reappeared, spray-painted onto the Avenida El Dorado that winds its way to my little room in La Candelaria.
  I hope this unsettling sound is no bad omen for my fieldwork studying the Amazonian forest fires. Science, after all, does not credit omens, but claims to extrapolate solely from the empirical and observable. I wonder – could Stephenson foresee Cerrejón, Latin America’s largest coalpit, from the puffs of Colombia’s first steam-operated mines any more effectively than Bogotá’s Indigenous Muisca could from their victory-garlands? [2] Would he have pressed on full-steam ahead? Needs must, I suppose. Needs must… what, exactly?[3]
  My feline friends quieten to some unseen signal of the night and I lapse into the uneasy sleep of the researcher whose entire year’s work relies on the success of the next two weeks’ data collection.
  Falling asleep to the Andes and waking up to the Amazon is a lesson in the magical realism inseparable from the region.