text: Le Gallois; Reviewed by Bill Jenkins, chief executive, Quadrant.
  To do a business lunch in Cardiff is to risk sharing trade secrets with the opposition. The city is small - 400,000 people - and its business community is compact. Seek a quiet table in some little bistro and you had better keep your eyes peeled for those who would like to know who your client is.
  That's partly Le Gallois's charm. You can sit in the cool bar and watch the door. The restaurant is a happy fusion of French and Welsh, and the place where you are likely to see a good mixture of local business people together with journalists from both print and broadcast media.
  The food is very good, possessing undoubted French expertise coupled with fresh Welsh ingredients. Chef Padrig Jones is a modest genius without the apparent arrogance of so many of his profession - at least that's the case whenever he greets you in public.
  The young waiting staff are friendly and mainly French and the food is served in a relaxed fashion. Not the place for a quick lunch, but somewhere to savour your food and wine as you cut the deal.
  The restaurant's high and wide glass windows sometimes make you feel as though you are on show, which suits some - especially those 'in TV'.