text: Timmay77's stereo build (complete aftermarket system) - Page 30 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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  2nd April 2010, 00:41
  2001 M5 (M CINCO), E61 535xiT (FAM WAG)
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  If they are all connected to the same place then it doesn't matter what the reading is. The problem is, they aren't all in the same place. How do I know? Because he has alternator whine...
  My suspicion is that the antenna amplifier, or maybe a bad head unit.
  Use the Accord if you'd like, but I'd start by connecting a speaker directly to the head unit, but I prefer direct testing to indirect. Where is everything grounded Tim? Something isn't grounded with the others - what is it? Antenna amplifier perhaps? Everything WAS grounded together when I started troubleshooting. I had whine. The only thing that is NOT now, is my HU. When I moved it's ground to a new ground on the tubing inside the dash with about 10" of wire, nothing changed. I still had the exact same alternator whine.
  I GUARANTEE you if I ground it again in the trunk with everything else with the 18' of wire I had before, it will be the same.....
  1. Head unit to speakers. Use a CD - nothing else attached to head unit. No antennas - NOTHING. Just power, ground, and speaker. No noise? Check all the channels. Now add the antenna's. Still good? Check FM too! Good, our head unit works properly.
  2. Head unit to amplifier to speaker. Noise? Try another set of RCA's. Check the grounds. You grounded them to the same place, right? No? Do so now. Still have noise? Try another amp.
  3. Add in the crossovers and attach your real speakers. Noise? Move the crossovers. Ground the crossovers. Make sure your speakers are not touching anything metal. Verify all the wires are undamaged.
  4. Add in the DQXS. Noise? Try different cables. Get a new DQXS.
  5. Add in the Imprint. Noise? Try different cables. Get a new Imprint.
  5 steps - 5-8 hours of work. And you thought getting the head unit to physically fit in the space was going to be the hard part, didn't you It will take me 2x that. I have to add wiring to my HU to hook up a speaker. I do not use RCA's out of my deck. I use an Ai-Net cable. It looks like I will have to go this route though.....
  Tim, I'm sure you have done this, but have you played with the different jumper settings for the ground loop isolator on the DQXS? That did the trick for my whine.
  Yes sir I did. I even emailed Audio Control and asked them for some advice since the whine got worse when I added the DQXS. The grounding loop didn't change a thing.
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  2001 Jet Black/Executive Black///M5 ("M CINCO") current mods and accessories:
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  2nd April 2010, 03:37
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  Disconnect your antenna. Remove everything that is NOT required to play a CD from the headunit. GPS antenna, FM antenna, and any other inputs you may possibly have. Report back. d-
  2nd April 2010, 04:13
  methodsound
  2004 545i titanium grey
  This is a little late in the game but here is another option available to you Timmay: First of all, the Imprint processor is meant to be a simple self tuning processor, but in your system I believe it's only purpose is to take you from the 2v head unit output to a 4 volt signal ( since you have the DQXS that would allow you manual tuning of your system). The best way to reduce/ eliminate noise would be to increase your signal to noise ratio. What if you sold the Imprint processor and the DQXS processor and bought the Alpine PXA-H701? That would give you 4v output, full ( manual ) sound processor adjustment, and it uses fiber optic signal cables from the head unit ( and DVD changer if available ). The fiber optic cables would be immune to any EMI, so you would just have to mount the processor far away from any EMI problem areas. Some audio will run on the Ainet cables depending on what your source is ( DVD and CD should run on the fiber optic cables, not sure if FM uses the Ainet or not ). Either way, in your current system, since you have ( or would have with the PXA-H701) a 4 volt signal, the gains on your amps should be at the 4 volt position. If it is still not loud enough in that position ( usually adjusted all the way down ) then your amp is not powerful enough for your volume demand. By setting the gains at the 4 volt position, or all the way down, you are increasing your signal to noise ratio. You might still have some noise, but it is much easier to fix once the gain structure is correct. Hope this helps you out, I do not expect to be able to troubleshoot your car thru the forum, but at least I might give you an idea that helps you solve the problem, good luck. Check page 90 for the system diagram of the 505 and 701 http://support.alpine-usa.com/produc...M_IVA-W505.pdf
  2004 BMW 545i factory options: 6MT, sport/ premium/ cold weather package, Nav, L7, SAT, CDC, active steering, dynamic drive
  factory equipment retrofits: ACM, AUX, MP3 activation, front and rear cameras
  aftermarket mods: iPod dock ash tray w/ video on screen,USB, DSP sound processor, four 8" subs in rear shelf, Tru-Technology amps, Hybrid Audio speakers...
  build logs: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60...installed.html
  url: http://methodsound.com
  Last edited by methodsound; 2nd April 2010 at 04:15.
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  2nd April 2010, 14:21
  That is a reasonable suggestion, methodsound, but it will alleviate his problem, it will simply make it less noticeable. Certainly a greater signal:noise ratio is desirable in all cases, and I agree that an ai-net cable is not subject to EMI, but EMI is rarely the cause of alt whine unless you have run an unshielded (or improperly grounded) RCA directly on top of a 100A line - it is a possible cause, but GLI is almost always at the root of the problem.
  You've got a handful of suggestions awaiting you Tim - work your way through the troubleshooting suggested. Let us know where the problem occurs and we'll try to help you fix it.
  2nd April 2010, 15:53
  5 steps - 5-8 hours of work. And you thought getting the head unit to physically fit in the space was going to be the hard part, didn't you d-
  I got home from work last night at 10:30pm and started doing the above. I found the problem at 4:19am, drum roll please............
  The DQXS. I did EVERYTHING you can imagine to try and remove the whine. Absolute ground, clean power, clean remote, swapped RCA's, nothing worked. I have removed it from my system and the whine is now back to being BARELY noticeable. If I pause a CD and crank the volume all the way up you can barely hear it. With music playing at a normal level, you can't tell it is there at all.
  I am a moron, you guys are geniuses because you asked from the START, what changed? I added the DQXS. I thought it was the DQXS amplifying an already bad signal, but it was the DQXS it's self.
  Way to go, Tim! What a colossal PITA this has turned out to be, but in the end you'll have a great system that you know inside and out.
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  timmay77 (2nd April 2010)
  2nd April 2010, 19:01
  No kidding. I literally have probably 40 man hours wrapped up in this troubleshooting! UGH........
  2003 E39 M5 TiSi w/ Silverstone interior & 97 E36 M3
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  2nd April 2010, 19:12
  2001 Anthracite M5
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  I also had an alternator whine after adding my DQXS, so I'm not sure if it's a common problem or not. I was able to greatly reduce mine by relocating it.
  I still have a little whine, it's barely noticeable, but I will be replacing my DQXS with a MS-8 soon
  Euro Dash, Slimmbones Euro Armrest, Slimmbones Shifter/Ebrake Boots, F10 M5 Illuminated Shift Knob, UUC EVO3 Shifter, UUC DSSR, UUC Clutch Stop, Autolumination Interior LEDS, JBL MS-8, Alpine MRX-V70, Kicker Subwoofers, Polk/Boston Acoustic Speakers Exterior