I had so much presence of mind, as well as breath left, that seeing myself nearer the mainland than I expected, I got upon my feet, and endeavoured to make on towards the land as fast as I could before another wave should return and take me up again; but I soon found it was impossible to avoid it; for I saw the sea come after me as high as a great hill, and as furious as an enemy, which I had no means or strength to contend with: my business was to hold my breath, and raise myself upon the water if I could; and so, by swimming, to preserve my breathing, and pilot myself towards the shore, if possible, my greatest concern now being that the sea, as it would carry me a great way towards the shore when it came on, might not carry me back again with it when it gave back towards the sea.
Mi meta era contener el aliento y, si podía, tratar de mantenerme a flote para nadar, aguantando la respiración, hacia la playa. Mi gran preocupación era que la ola, que me arrastraría un buen trecho hacia la orilla, no me llevase mar adentro en su reflujo.