I was covered again with water a good while, but not so long but I held it out; and finding the water had spent itself, and began to return, I struck forward against the return of the waves, and felt ground again with my feet.
Je fus derechef couvert d'eau assez long-temps, mais je tins bon; et, sentant que la lame étalait et qu'elle commençait à refluer, je coupai à travers les vagues et je repris pied.