I had so much presence of mind, as well as breath left, that seeing myself nearer the mainland than I expected, I got upon my feet, and endeavoured to make on towards the land as fast as I could before another wave should return and take me up again; but I soon found it was impossible to avoid it; for I saw the sea come after me as high as a great hill, and as furious as an enemy, which I had no means or strength to contend with: my business was to hold my breath, and raise myself upon the water if I could; and so, by swimming, to preserve my breathing, and pilot myself towards the shore, if possible, my greatest concern now being that the sea, as it would carry me a great way towards the shore when it came on, might not carry me back again with it when it gave back towards the sea.
Je n'avais ni le moyen ni la force de combattre cet ennemi; ma seule ressource était de retenir mon haleine, et de m'élever au-dessus de l'eau, et en surnageant ainsi de préserver ma respiration, et de voguer vers la côte, s'il m'était possible. J'appréhendais par-dessus tout que le flot, après m'avoir transporté, en venant, vers le rivage, ne me rejetât dans la mer en s'en retournant.