Saving $1,000+ per month…what should I do with it?
If you can get a rate of savings that is higher than your debt, you save.  If you can't then you pay off your debt.  That makes the most of the money you have. Also to think about:  what are you goals?  Do you want to own a home, start a family, further your education, move to a new town?  All of these you would need to save up for.  If you can do these large transactions in cash you will be better off. If it were me I would do what I think is a parroting of Dave Ramsay's advice Congratulations by the way.  It isn't easy to do what you have accomplished and you will lead a simpler life if you don't have to worry about money everyday. Daniel, first of all, I'm jealous of your predicament.  That said, I think you've gotten some good advice already, so I won't repeat what's been said.  But I will throw out a few ideas that haven't come up.  My first thought is that you may be underestimating upcoming expenses.  It sounds like your current expenses are low, and that's great!  I'm impressed that you're living below your means, and looking for the best way to use your extra cash.  But you may not be thinking of a few things. You have a girlfriend, and maybe your relationship isn't such that you are planning a wedding quite yet.  But, regardless of whether your current girlfriend is your future life partner or not, if you think marriage may be in your future at all, you'll save yourself a lot of stress if you've got some savings for a wedding in place before you're ready to commit. Next, what are you driving?  If it's a good car that you expect to last you another 10 years, you're probably ok right now.  But if you may need to replace your vehicle in the next few years, start saving now and you may be able to buy it outright.  (I expect your interest rate on financing a car would be higher than your current student loan rates, so I would save for a car before paying down loans with such beautiful rates.) A house has already been discussed, and there was also mention of additional education, and both of those require a solid financial plan that begins far in advance. In summary, I think you need a lot more than $5K in savings.  Sure, have some fun, and take advantage of opportunities to travel, etc, as they come along, but if you're able to bump your savings by $500 to $1000/month, I think you'll really be glad you did.  When it comes time for a new car, or you find you're ready to settle down, it will be nice to have somewhere to draw from, and if there's only $5K in your savings, you may come to regret choices you made when you were 22. I like the other answers.  But, here's one thing that concerns me that hasn't specifically been addressed yet: You mentioned your student loans are at low rates of interest.  Are those rates fixed or variable?  If those interest rates are variable, I would not count on rates remaining low indefinitely.  If you could imagine those rates going up by say 2% or 4% or more over time, would such rates make you change your mind about the debt and the pace at which you're paying it off? I would suggest that as the economy recovers over the next couple of years, the spectre of inflation will force the Fed to raise interest rates.  You don't want to be holding variable-rate debt when rates are rising.  For that reason, if your loan rate is variable, I would increase your payment amount so you can eliminate your debt sooner than later. Also – You mention in one of your comments that buying a home is 4+ years away.  That's not a long time, so I wouldn't commit the bulk of your savings to investing in the stock market, which can be temperamental over short periods of time.  You don't want to be in a large loss position just when it's time to buy your first home. However, it may be worth having some of your skin in the game, so to speak.  Personally, I would take a balanced approach: 1/3 debt repayment, 1/3 high interest cash savings, and 1/3 in some broad diversified index funds – and not all in the U.S.  Although, I also like the idea of getting some travel in while young, so perhaps 1/4 allocations to the money stuff, and 1/4 towards travel?  :-) Good luck. In your situation I suggest: In terms of what to spend it on, one tax preparer I knew said he would ask his wealthy clients (ones with real net worth) what they spent their money on, and it was almost always travel.  We agree, memories from our trips are ones that last a lifetime.  I can't say much else you buy gives you the same long term payback in your personal life. Excellent responses so far.  Because I am a math guy, I wanted to stress the power of compounding. It's great that you are thinking about saving and your future when you are so young.  Definitely be displined about your saving and investing.  You would be surprised how just a small amount can compound over the years. For example, if you were to start with $5000 and contribute $100 per month.  Assuming that you can get 5% ROR (hard in today's world but shouldn't be down the road), your final principal after 28 years (when you are 50 years old) will be over $90,000, which of only $38,000 is what you contributed yourself.  The rest is interest.  You can play with the numbers here: http://www.math.com/students/calculators/source/compound.htm "Since you already have an emergency fund in place, focus your extra funds on paying off debts like student loans. While some have advised you to play the stock market, not one person has mentioned the word ""risk"". You are gambling (""investing"") your money in the hopes your money will grow. Your student loan is real liability. The longer you keep the loan, the more interest you will pay. You can pay off your student loan in 21 months if you pay $1,100 each month. After the 21 months, you can almost fully fund a 401(k) each year. That will be amazing at your age. Our company gives us the Vanguard Retirement Fund with a low expense ratio of 0.19%. It is passive automated investing where you don't have to think about it. Just add money and just let it ride."
"There are two issues here: arithmetic and psychology. Scenario 1: You are presently paying an extra $500 per month on your student loan, above the minimum payments. Your credit card company offers a $4000 cash advance at 0% for 8 months. So you take the cash advance, pay it toward the student loan, and then instead of paying the extra $500 per month toward the student loan you use that $500 for 8 months to repay the cash advance. Net result: You pay 0% interest on the loan, and save roughly 8 months times $4000 times the interest on the student loan divided by two. (I say ""divided by two"" because it's not the difference between $4000 and zero, but between $4000 and the $500 you would have been paying off each month.) Clearly you are better off. If you are NOT presently paying an extra $500 on the student loan -- or even if you are but it is a struggle to come up with the money -- then the question becomes, can you reasonably expect to be able to pay off the credit card before the grace period runs out? Interest rates on credit cards are normally much higher than interest rates on student loans. If you get the cash advance and then can't repay it, after 8 months you are paying a very steep interest rate, and anything you saved on the student loan will quickly be lost. What I mean by ""psychological"" is that you have to have the discipline to really repay the credit card within the grace period. If you're not very confidant that you can do that, this plan could go bad very quickly. Personally, I've thought about doing things like this many times -- cash advances against credit cards, home equity loans, etc, all give low-interest money that could be used to pay off a higher-interest debt. But it's easy to get into trouble doing things like this. It's easy to say to yourself, Well, I don't need to put ALL the money toward that other debt, I could keep a thousand or so to buy that big screen TV I really need. Or to fail to pay back the low-interest loan on schedule because other things keep coming up that you spend your money on instead, whether frivolous luxuries or true emergencies. And there's always the possibility that something will happen to mess up your finances, from a big car repair bill to losing your job. You don't want to paint yourself into a corner. Finally, maxing out your credit cards hurts your credit rating. The formulas are secret, but I understand that if you use more than half your available credit, that's a minus. How much it hurts you depends on lots of factors." At the moment, you are paying about $1,300 interest each month (£431k @ 3.625% / 12) on your mortgage and repaying capital at about $1,500 per month. Paying $11,000 off your mortgage would save you about $9,000 as it is reduces your balance by about seven monthly capital repayments: but you will only see this benefit at the end of the mortgage because you will pay it off seven months earlier. There is only about $1,000 interest remaining on your car loans. Paying the $11,000 off your interest free loan then paying extra agianst the interest bearing loan brings that down to $500 and paying it off your interest bearing loan brings it down to $200. Either way, both car loans would be finished by early 2018. In summary, if you use the $11,000 against your car loans, you will save $8,500-$8,800 less than paying it off the mortage, but you will have no car loans in one year rather than three. Google spreadsheet for calculations here. I am assuming that you are talking about US Savings Bonds: Here is a page that talks about maturity dates of US Savings bonds. If They aren'tSavings bonds but are another type ofUS Government Bond Assuming they are Savings bonds, here is information regarding redeeming of bonds. How do I redeem my EE/E Bonds?  Electronic bonds:     Log in to Treasury Direct and follow the directions there. The cash amount can be credited to your checking or savings account within one business day of the redemption date.  Paper bonds    You can cash paper EE/E Bonds at many local financial institutions. We don't keep a list of banks that redeem bonds, so check with banks in your area. What will I need to redeem a paper bond? Before taking in the bonds to redeem them, it's usually a good idea to check with the financial institution to find out what identification and other documents you'll need.   When you present your paper bonds, you'll be asked to show your identity. You can do this by being a customer with an active account open for at least 6 months at the financial institution that will be paying the bonds, or presenting acceptable identification such as a valid driver's license if the >redemption value of the bonds is less than $1,000. If you are not listed as the owner or co-owner on the bond, you'll have to show that you >are entitled to cash in the bond.  The treasury direct website also discusses converting bonds, rules regarding using them for education, how often they are credited with interest Where was it reported that it was six figures per month? It isn't clear from the article what Mandiant's scope was that they were brought in under. I'm not even sure the way it reads that Mandiant found the Apache Struts-based breach while investigating the breach they were brought in for. Also, companies with an emphasis on IT like Equifax vary greatly in how they handle out-of-budget projects, and so far as I've read, it wasn't revealed how Mandiant's project was procured.  Equifax is going to be a case study in business schools on the handling of this incident, and what not getting in front of a crisis looks like (for comparison, see how the Tylenol tampering was handled). Equifax should have reached out to all affected and said they automatically put a freeze on their records, and all affected now have an account created if they didn't already have an account, 7 years of free 100 freeze/unfreeze requests per year, 52 free credit report requests per year, and credit monitoring. If I was on the board, I would have told the CEO to make a generous offer to buy out LifeLock and put all affected onto their most comprehensive plan while working behind the scenes to revamp IT and information security, as well as rethink the industry.  It would have been expensive as hell to do, but this is starting to grow into a Wells Fargo-scale career ending and industry-defining incident, and whatever cost savings they thought they got by cutting so many corners that enabled this breach and the weak response might get wiped out for the next 100 years of potential savings as odds increase weekly they'll be forced to adopt more regulatory oversight in the future.   If they quietly get LifeLock's most comprehensive plan for all US federal and state legislators though, then they probably will escape real reform and might skate by on the weak response. "There are exactly zero experts in the field of Personal Finance that would advise having an ""emergency fund"" (liquid assets available to meet sudden obligations like illness, car accident, AC breaks, etc.) that is sub $1,000.   If you have less than $1k in liquid assets you either A. must live at home with your parents, B. very broke or C. being very irresponsible. I think an emergency fund of $10k is really the sweet spot. I can't imagine anyone reasonable funding the shit out of their 401k, IRA, etc. and having less than $1k cash." You're losing money. And a lot of it. Consider this: the inflation is 2-4% a year (officially, depending on your spending pattern your own rate might be quite higher). You earn about 1/2%. I.e.: You're losing 3% a year. Guaranteed. You can do much better without any additional risk. 0.1% on savings account? Why not 0.9%? On-line savings account (Ally, CapitalOne-360, American Express, E*Trade, etc) give much higher rates than what you have. Current Ally rates are 0.9% on a regular savings account. 9 times more than what you have, with no additional risk: its a FDIC insured deposit. You can get a slightly higher rate with CDs (0.97% at the same bank for 12 months deposit). IRA - why is it in CD's? Its the longest term investment you have, that's where you can and should take risks, to maximize your compounding returns. Not doing that is actually more risky to you because you're guaranteeing compounding loss, of the said 3% a year. On average, more volatile stock investments have shown to be not losing money over periods of decades, even if they do lose money over shorter periods. Rental - if you can buy a property that you would pay the same amount of money for as for a comparable rental - you should definitely buy. Your debt will be secured by the property, and since you're paying the same amount or less - you're earning the equity. There's no risk here, just benefits, which again you chose to forgo. In the worst case if you default and walk away from the property you lost exactly (or less) what you would have paid for a rental anyway. 14 years old car may be cheaper than 4 years old to buy, but consider the maintenance, licensing and repairs - will it not some up to more than the difference? In my experience - it is likely to. Bottom line - you think you're risk averse, but you're exactly the opposite of that. The absolute best advice I ever received was this:  You will need three categories of savings in your life: 1) Retirement Savings  This is money you put away (in 401-Ks and IRAs) for the time in your life when you can no longer earn enough income to support yourself. You do not borrow against it nor do you withdraw from it in emergencies or to buy a house.  2) Catestrophic savings  This is money you put back in case of serious events. Events like: prolonged job loss, hospitalization, extended illness, loss of home, severe and significant loss of transportation, very large aplliance loss or damage. You do not take trips to the Bahamas or buy diamond rings with this money.  3) Urgent, relatively small,  need savings. This is the savings you can use from time to time. Use it for bills that arise unexpectedly, unforseen shortfalls in your budget, needed repairs such as car repairs and small appliance repairs, surprising fines, fees, and bills.  Put 10% of your income into each category of savings. 10% intro retirement savings, another, separate, 10% intro Catestrophic savings, and yet another 10% intro urgent, small need, savings.  So, as you can see, already 30% of your income is already spoken for. Divide up the remaining 70% intro fixed (I recommend 50% toward fixed expenses) and variable expenses. Fixed includes those things that you pay once every month such as housing, utilities, car payment, debt repayment, etc. Variable includes discretionary things like eating out, gifts, and  splurges.  Most importantly, partner with someone who is your opposite. If you are a saver at heart partner with a spender. If you are a spender partner with a saver.  There are three rules to live by regarding the budget: A) no one spends any money unless it is in the budget B) the budget only includes those things to which both the saver and the spender agree C) the budget can, and will, be modified as the pay period unfolds.  A budget is a plan not a means to beat the other person up. Plans change as new information arises. A budget must be flexible. The urgent use savings will help to make  the budget flexible.  Edit due to comments: @enderland Perhaps you do not have children living with you. I am a saver, my wife is a spender. When it came time to do the budget I would forget things like the birthdays of my children, school fees due next pay period, shopping for Christmas gifts, needed new clothes and shoes for the children, broken small appliances that needed to be fixed or replaced, special (non reoccurring) house maintenence (like steam cleaning the carpet), gifts to relatives and friends, exceptional assistance to relatives, etc.  As my wife was the spender she would remind me of these things. Perhaps  you do not have these events in your life. I am glad to have these events in my life as that means that I have people in my life that I care about.  What good is a fat savings account if I have no loved ones that benefit from it? "Congratulations. The first savings goal should be an emergency fund.  Think of this not as an investment, but as insurance against life's woes.  They happen and having this kind of money earmarked allows one to invest without needing to withdraw at an inopportune time.   This should go into a ""high interest"" savings account or money market account.  Figure three to six months of expenses. The next goal should be retirement savings.  In the US this is typically done through 401K or if your company does not offer one, either a ROTH IRA or Traditional IRA.  The goal should be about 15% of your income.  You should favor a 401k match over just about anything else, and then a ROTH over that.   The key to transforming from a broke college student into a person with a real job, and disposable income, is a budget.  Otherwise you might just end up as a broke person with a real job (not fun).  Part of your budget should include savings, spending, and giving.  All three areas are the key to building wealth.   Once you have all of those taking care of the real fun begins.  That is you have an emergency fund, you are putting 15% to retirement, you are spending some on yourself, and giving to a charity of your choice.  Then you can dream some with any money left over (after expenses of course).   Do you want to retire early?  Invest more for retirement.  Looking to buy a home or own a bunch of rental property?  Start educating yourself and invest for that.   Are you passionate about a certain charity?  Give more and save some money to take time off in order to volunteer for that charity. All that and more can be yours.  Budgeting is a key concept, and the younger you start the easier it gets.   While the financiers will disagree with me, you cannot really invest if you are borrowing money.  Keep debt to zero or just on a primary residence.  I can tell you from personal experience that I did not started building wealth until I made a firm commitment to being out of debt. Buy cars for cash and never pay credit card interest.  Pay off student loans as soon as possible. For some reason the idea of giving to charity invokes rancor.  A cursory study of millionaires will indicate some surprising facts:  most of them are self made, most of them behave differently than pop culture, and among other things most of them are generous givers.  Building wealth is about behavior.  Giving to charity is part of that behavior.  Its my own theory that giving does almost no good for the recipient, but a great amount of good for the giver.   This may seem difficult to believe, but I ask that you try it."