Is it cheaper to use car Insurance or pay out of pocket?
"There's not a single answer here, as the premium you pay for car insurance depends on multiple factors, including (but not limited to): All these factors contribute to the likelihood of getting into an accident, and the expected damage from an accident.  So just having an accident and making a claim will likely raise your premium (all else being equal), but whether or not it will be cheaper in the long run depends (obviously) on how much your premium goes up, which cannot determined without all of the facts.  Your agent could tell you how much it would go up, but even making such an inquiry would likely be noted on your insurance record, and may cause your premium to go up (although probably not by as much). However, the point of insurance is to reduce the out-of-pocket expenses from future accidents, so the question to ask is: How likely am I to have another accident, and if I do, can I pay cash for it or will I need to offset some cost with an insurance claim.  Do you risk making a claim and having your rates go up by more than $700 over the next 3-4 years (the rough time it takes for a ""surcharge"" to expire)?  Or do you just pay for the repair out-of-pocket and keep your premiums lower?"
In most states, Car insurance follows the car, not the driver, so your insurance would likely cover her. Her insurance may secondarily cover her in your car under certain conditions (she'd have to call and ask to confirm)  Of course, they might try to deny any claim if you misrepresented your application (where it asks about all drivers in the 'household'). One thought-- Consider getting a joint policy with both of your cars on it, the joint policy might be cheaper than two separate policies. Marriage and 25+ yr age is the holy grail as far as insurance companies go, but you might fare well with a joint policy.  You could also consider becoming domestic partners if you're not quite ready for marriage and possibly save on health and car insurance. I haven't looked at that warranty in detail, but generally speaking this should help. What is GAP insurance? In the case of a total loss/write off gap insurance covers the outstanding finance after your regular insurance pay out. The two won't match up usually because of the depreciation right after you buy the car. For example, if you take out $20,000 finance and buy a car, then write it off after six months, your insurance company may only value it at $16,000 but it's unlikely you will have cleared $4,000 from your finance. Gap insurance will pay out the difference and settle the debt. Will Chrysler change the engine, if it comes to bhore? Yes, unless they identify misuse or deliberate damage. For instance, if you do 1000 miles and the engine explodes, it's a mechanical fault that the warranty would cover. If they open up the engine/look at diagnostics and find it's been thrashed to within an inch of it's life, they may claim it was your driving which has destroyed the engine and you would have to prove it was an underlying fault and would have blown either way. Will car dents be covered with this bumper to bumper insurance? Not likely, as I mentioned in the last point, if it's your fault it wouldn't be covered. I think you may be confusing the terms insurance and warranty at this point. Insurance would cover your dents but a warranty only covers the manufacturer's faults, even in the case of extended warranties. What does basic mean in terms of warranty? Sounds obvious, but whatever Chrysler want it to mean! There's no legal definition of 'basic' so you would need to check the documents thoroughly or ask them to explain exactly what is and isn't covered. If they're reluctant, it's probably because 'basic' covers very little... "To address the issue in the title of your question: Many expenses strike at what for all practical purposes are random intervals. Roof starts leaking, car needs repair, etc, don't have a fixed cost every month. Medical expenses can certainly be more extreme than many other expenses, but their nature is the same. And so the way to budget for them is the same: You figure out what your average expenses are over a long period of time. Then you start putting away a little more than this amount every month. Keep putting away until you have a reserve larger than any expense you are likely to get hit with all at once.  I have no idea what your particular expenses are, so let me use myself for an example. My medical bills last year were unusually large: about $6,000. I have lousy insurance and a couple of chronic conditions, so my bills are usually maybe $1,000 to $2,000 per year. So I plan on about $150 per month for medical bills. Most insurance policies have an ""out of pocket maximum"". This should be the most you'd ever have to lay out in a year. Mine is $13,000. (I told  you my insurance sucks.) So I have an account that I have now built up to $13,000. Worst case, I wipe out that account. In any case, if my bills are that large, the doctors or hospital will normally agree to a payment plan. (I still owe a few hundred on my bills from last year and the hospital is letting me pay it off at $120 per month.) Your question brings up a lot of issues about difficulties of working with insurance and the U.S. medical system in general. I'm not sure if your intent was to get advice on the rest of it all. Simple -- not pleasant, but simple -- answer: If you're insurance is provided by your employer, you're pretty much stuck with the policy that the employer negotiates. I don't know how much you're contributing to premiums, usually the company pays the bulk of it. You could investigate getting a policy on your own, but odds are that any policy you could get for what you're contributing now would be way worse than what you can get through the company. You could always investigate, but I doubt you'll do better. You can talk to HR. If it's a big company, they may have some muscle with the insurance company and could help you out. Failing that, it becomes a political question of how the laws affecting medical care and insurance in the U.S. are set up, and while I have many ideas for how it could be improved, sadly I'm not in a position to do much about it, and I doubt you are either. Unless you have the resources to run for president." First, as noted in the comments, you need to pay attention to your network providers.  If you are unable to pay exorbitant prices out of pocket, then find an in-network medical provider.  if you are unhappy with the in-network provider list (e.g. too distant or not specialists), then discuss switching to another plan or insurer with your employer or broker. Second, many providers will have out of pocket or uninsured price lists, often seen in outdated formats or disused binders.  Since you have asked for price lists and not been provided one, I would pursue it with the practice manager (or equivalent, or else a doctor) and ask if they have one.  It's possible that the clinic has an out of pocket price list but the front line staff is unaware of it and was never trained on it. Third, if you efforts to secure a price list fail, and you are especially committed to this specific provider, then I would consider engaging in a friendly by direct negotiation with the practice manager or other responsible person.  Person they will be amenable to creating a list of prices (if you are particularly proactive and aggressive, you could offer to find out of pocket price lists from other clinics nearby).  You could also flat out ask them to charge you a certain fee for office visits (if you do this, try to get some sort of offer or agreed price list in writing).  Most medical practices are uncomfortable asking patients for money, so that may mean flat refusal to negotiate but it may also mean surprising willingness to work with you.  This route is highly unpredictable before you go down it, and it's dependent on all sorts of things like the ownership structure, business model, and the personalities of the key people there. The easiest answer is to switch clinics.  This one sounds very unfriendly to HSA patients. "I've lived this decision, and from my ""anecdata"": do #3 I have been car-free since 2011 in a large United States city.  I was one month into a new job on a rail line out in the suburbs, and facing a $3000 bill to pass state inspection (the brakes plus the emissions system).  I live downtown.  I use a combination of transit, a carshare service, and 1-2 day rentals from full service car rental businesses (who have desks at several downtown hotels walking distance from my house).  I have not had a car insurance policy since 2011; the carshare includes this and I pay $15 per day for SLI from full service rentals.   I routinely ask insurance salesmen to run a quote for a ""named non-owner"" policy, and would pull the trigger if the premium cost was $300/6 months, to replace the $15/day SLI.  It's always quoted higher.   In general, our trips have a marginal cost of $40-100.  Sure, this can be somewhat discouraging.  But we do it for shopping at a warehouse club, visiting parents and friends in the suburbs.  Not every weekend, but pretty close.   But with use of the various services ~1/weekend, it's come out to $2600 per year.  I was in at least $3200 per year operating the car and often more, so there is room for unexpected trips or the occasional taxi ride in cash flow, not to mention the capital cost: I ground the blue book value of the car from $19000 down to $3600 in 11 years.   Summary:  Pull the trigger, do it :D" There is no benefit in life insurance as such (ie, death insurance.) There is a great deal of value in other types though: total and permanent disability insurance, trauma insurance (a lump sum for a major medical event), and income protection insurance (cover against a temporary but disabling medical condition).  If you don't have that, you should get it right now. This is about the most important insurance you can carry.  Being unable to work for the rest of your life has a far larger impact than having, say, your car stolen. ...  If, later on, you acquire dependents, and you feel you ought to have life insurance, then you will have a relationship with a life insurance company, and maybe they will let you upgrade from income/TPD to income/TPD/life without too much fuss or requalification.  Some do; whether yours would I don't know.  But at least you have a toe in the door with them, in a way that is infinitely more immediately useful than getting life insurance that you don't actually need. "Discounting premiums based on some past history is not unique to auto policies.  Other insurers will discount premiums based on past claims history they just don't shout about it as a marketing means to attract customers.  Life insurance is underwritten based on your health history; if you want to consider your ""preferred"" underwriting status based on your clear health history a ""discount based on your healthy habits"" you're free to do so.  All sorts of lines of insurance use all sorts of things to determine an underwriting classes.  The fact that auto insurers trumpet specific discounts does not mean the same net effect is not available on other lines of coverage. Most states require auto rates and discounts to be filed and approved with some state regulator, some regulatory bodies even require that certain discounts exist.  You could likely negotiate with your business insurance underwriters about a better rate and if the underwriters saw fit they could give you a discount.  Auto insurers can offer discounts but are generally beholden to whatever rate sheet is on file with the applicable regulatory body. For the person who downvoted, here's a link to a spreadsheet outlining one of the CA department of insurance allowable rating factor sheets related to auto insurance." That interest rate (13%) is steep, and the balloon payment will have him paying more interest longer. Investing the difference is a risky proposition because past performance of an investment is no guarantee of future performance. Is taking that risk worth netting 2%? Not for me, but you must answer that last question for yourself. To your edit: How disruptive would losing the car and/or getting negative marks on your credit be? If you can quantify that in dollars then you have your answer.