As a parent of a high school student, what should my short-term cash policy be to optimize my college costs?
"There is no simple answer to your question.  It depends on many things, perhaps most notably what college your daughter ends up going to and what kind of aid you hope to receive. Your daughter will probably fill out the FAFSA as part of her financial aid application.  Here is one discussion of what parental assets ""count"" towards the Expected Family Contribution on the FAFSA.  You can find many similar pages by googling.  Retirement accounts and primary residence are notable categories that do not count.  So, if you were looking to reduce your ""apparent"" assets for aid purposes, dumping money into your mortgage or retirement account is a possibility. However, you should be cautious when doing this type of gaming, because it's not always clear exactly how it will affect financial aid.  For one thing, ""financial aid"" includes both grants and loans.  Everyone wants grants, but sometimes increasing your ""eligibility"" may just make you (or your daughter) eligible for larger loans, which may not be so great. Also, each college has its own system for allocating financial aid.  Individual schools may ask for more detailed information (such as the CSS Profile).  So strategies for minimizing your apparent assets that work for one school may not work for others.  Some elite schools with large endowments have generous aid policies that allow even families with sizable incomes to pay little or nothing (e.g., Stanford waives tuition for most families with incomes under $125,000). You should probably research the financial aid policies of schools your daughter is interested in.  It can be helpful to talk to financial aid advisors at colleges, as well as high school counselors, not to mention general financial advisors if you really want to start getting technical about what assets to move around.  Needless to say, it all begins with talking with your daughter about her thoughts on where to go."
"EBITDA is in my opinion not a useful measure for an investor looking to buy shares on the stock market. It is more useful for private businesses open to changing their structuring, or looking to sell significant parts of their business. One of the main benefits of reporting Earnings Before Interest, Taxes, Depreciation & Amortization, is that it presents the company as it would look to a potential buyer. Consider that net income, as a metric, includes interest costs, taxes, and depreciation.  Interest costs are (to put it simply) a result of multiplying a business's debt by its interest rate. If you own a business, and personally guarantee the loan that the company has with the bank, your interest rates might be artificially low. If you have a policy of reaching high debt levels relative to your equity, in order to achieve high 'financial leveraging', your interest cost might be artificially high. Either way, if I bought your business, my debt structure could be completely different, and therefore your interest costs are not particularly relevant to me, a potential buyer. Instead, I should attempt to anticipate what my own interest costs would be, under my plans for your business. Taxes are a result of many factors, including the corporate structure of the business. If you run your business as a sole proprietorship (ie: no corporation), but I want to buy it under my corporation, then my tax rates could look nothing like yours. Or if we operated in multiple jurisdictions. etc. etc. Instead of using your taxes as an estimate for mine, I should anticipate my taxes based on my plans for your business. Depreciation / amortization is a measure that estimates how much of a business's ""fixed assets"" were ""used up"" during the year. ie: how much wear and tear occurred on your fleet of trucks? It is generally calculated as a % of your overall asset value. It is a (very loose) proxy for the cash costs which will ultimately be incurred to make repairs/replacements. D&A is also something which could significantly change if a business changes hands. If the value of your building is much higher now than when you bought it, I will have higher D&A costs than you [because I will be recording a % of total costs higher than yours], and therefore I should forecast my own D&A. Removing these costs from Net Income is not particularly relevant for a casual stock investor, because these costs will not change when you buy shares. Whatever IBM's interest cost is, reflects the debt structuring policy that the company currently has. Therefore when you buy a share in IBM, you should consider the impact that interest has on net income. Similarly for taxes and D&A - they reflect costs to the business that impact the company's ability to pay you a dividend, and therefore you should look at net income, which includes those costs. Why would a business with 'good net income' and 'good EBITDA' report EBITDA? Because EBITDA will always be higher than net income. Why say $10M net income, when you could say $50M EBITDA? The fact is, it's easy to report, and is generally well understood - so why not report it, when it also makes you look better, from a purely ""big number = good"" perspective? I'm not sure that reporting EBITDA implies any sort of manipulative reporting, but it would seem that Warren Buffet feels this is a risk." "? You have no idea what school I am talking about.  In my hometown, a child getting accepted into U of Illinois was one of the proudest moments in a parents life. I didn't get accepted into UI, but eventually I got accepted into a respectable school. I deal with people like that other commenter all the time. It's an epidemic. Why would I care to read his rude comments on Afghanistan when I have read books on the subject and been in the theater?  What, realistically, am I missing by engaging with him and putting up with his attitude?  And then there's you.  A brief view of your history shows me your school, your program, your lavish vacation, your frequent flyer tier as a freshman in college...  Honestly, I'm excruciatingly jealous.  So I hope you forgive me for my ""waving"" my pedigree of trying to be the first person in my broke-ass farm family to actually get a degree, but then getting beat out by my little sister because my mom could afford her college while I had to find a way to have Uncle Sam pay for mine." "I was told if I moved my 401k into a Roth IRA that school purposes is one reasons you can withdraw money without having to pay a tax. Incorrect.  You will need to pay tax on the amount converted, since a 401(k) is pre-tax and a Roth IRA is after-tax.  It will be added to your regular income, so you will pay tax at your marginal tax rate. is there any hidden tax or fee at all for withdrawing money from a Roth IRA for educational purposes?  You still will need to pay the tax on the amount converted, but you'll avoid the 10% penalty for early withdrawal. I know that tuition, books and fees are covered for educational purposes. Can I take out of my Roth IRA for living expenses while I'm attending school? Rent, gas, food, etc... Room and board, yes, so long as you are half-time, but not gas/food  Possibly only room and board for staying on-campus, but I'm not certain, although I doubt you could call your normal house payment ""education expense"" with my 401k being smaller, would it just be better to go ahead and cash the whole thing and just pay the tax and use it for whatever I need it for? What is the tax if I just decide to cash the whole thing in?  You pay your marginal tax rate PLUS a 10% penalty for early withdrawal.  So no, this is probably not a wise move financially unless you're on the verge of bankruptcy or foreclosure (where distress costs are much higher then the 10% penalty) I can't answer the other questions regarding grants; I would talk to the financial aid department at your school. Bottom line, transferring your 401(k) is very likely a bad idea unless you can afford to pay the tax in cash (meaning without borrowing).  My advice would be to leave your 401(k) alone (it's meant for retirement not for school or living expenses) Ideally, you should pay for as much as you can out of cash flow, and don't take out more student loans. That may mean taking fewer classes, getting another part time job, finding a different (cheaper) school, applying for more grants and scholarships, etc.  I would not in ANY circumstance cash out your 401(k) to pay for school.  You'll be much worse off in the long run, and there are much cheaper ways to get money." "I personally believe if one (average) income could support the needs of a family (nothing extravagant) and the parents had options (instead of only one of the parents having the ability to work for an income that supports a family) it would be better. At the micro view, there would be less grudges and more time for family. I feel bad now bc I'm stretched so thin I don't even have time to watch a tv show with our kids during the week.   In our situation, my husband never finished school (his mom let him drop out in the 7th grade) so his work options are very limited. He has had to work out of town jobs since before we started dating. I graduated high school but due to having kids early, I put off college. Because of the expense of daycare, I stayed at home with the kids for about 5 years. The plan is I get my degree next fall, get a decent paying job to support the family  and he can figure out what he wants to do as a career and be able to pursue it without having the pressure of HAVING to make an income to support a family. I have been nudging him to at least get an online high school diploma in the mean time but I think he is self conscious and scared he can't do it. We aren't the ""Keeping up with the Jones"" kind of people. I'm just trying to reach some goals and be financially stable and not worry about if we have enough money in the bank for bills or if the car breaks down if we are screwed.   A teacher's job is very time consuming so it definitely will be a challenge if you don't work a job that allows you to help out. At my internship this summer the CFO was able to just leave and bring his daughter to work whenever he needed to. That luxury is not afforded to many.   Also on a side note- when you have kids, please make an effort to take your paternity leave if your job offers it. You deserve it! Employees shouldn't feel bad for taking the benefits their company offers. Gender equality ftw!" "If you deposit the money in your account, it will count against the gift tax exclusion for you, not your daughter. As such, you should open a bank account for your daughter.  Assuming she already has a social security number, this will not be complicated.  Otherwise, apply for one, as mhoran notes before the end of the year. The kind of account you should open depends on the purpose of the money, but likely it should be opened as a Uniform Gift to Minors Act, or Uniform Transfer to Minors Act, account.  This means it is your daughter's account (not yours), but you designate one or more custodians who are the ones who can actually make withdrawals.  Any money in this account must be spent in your daughter's interest, but it's not required to be spent with her approval (even as an older child) nor on a specific thing (it's not just college money, like a 529 account is). Before you do so, you should consider how to set up custodianship.  Some parents simply make themselves custodians; some ask another relative to be custodian or joint custodian, or even someone like a godparent or close trusted friend.  Having a joint custodian is helpful if you feel like it may be challenging to not dip into the account if you had financial difficulties (as both custodians must sign off on withdrawals). Finally, you should consider whether you want this to be a simple bank account, or whether you might want to consider something like Vanguard or Fidelity investment account.  If it's likely to contain over $10,000 or whatever the reduced/no fee limit is at the investment firm you choose, it may well be worth your while to do this as you can earn significant returns fairly safely, assuming the money is intended for longer term use (for college or other later-in-life uses). Note that for tax purposes, this gift will count for 2016 taxes regardless of when you actually set up the account, as you have ""constructively received"" the gift when the check was given to you.  So there's no rush to work this out before the end of the year; you can still deposit it next year.  However, your daughter needs a SSN to be able to be claimed as a dependent on your taxes, so that at least needs doing before the end of the year." Basically you have 4 options: Use your cash to pay off the student loans. Put your cash in an interest-bearing savings account. Invest your cash, for example in the stock market. Spend your cash on fun stuff you want right now. The more you can avoid #4 the better it will be for you in the long term. But you're apparently wise enough that that wasn't included as an option in your question. To decide between 1, 2, and 3, the key questions are:  What interest are you paying on the loan versus what return could you get on savings or investment?  How much risk are you willing to take? How much cash do you need to keep on hand for unexpected expenses? What are the tax implications? Basically, if you are paying 2% interest on a loan, and you can get 3% interest on a savings account, then it makes sense to put the cash in a savings account rather than pay off the loan. You'll make more on the interest from the savings account than you'll pay on interest on the loan. If the best return you can get on a savings account is less than 2%, then you are better off to pay off the loan. However, you probably want to keep some cash reserve in case your car breaks down or you have a sudden large medical bill, etc. How much cash you keep depends on your lifestyle and how much risk you are comfortable with. I don't know what country you live in. At least here in the U.S., a savings account is extremely safe: even the bank goes bankrupt your money should be insured. You can probably get a much better return on your money by investing in the stock market, but then your returns are not guaranteed. You may even lose money. Personally I don't have a savings account. I put all my savings into fairly safe stocks, because savings accounts around here tend to pay about 1%, which is hardly worth even bothering. You also should consider tax implications. If you're a new grad maybe your income is low enough that your tax rates are low and this is a minor factor. But if you are in, say, a 25% marginal tax bracket, then the effective interest rate on the student loan would be more like 1.5%. That is, if you pay $20 in interest, the government will then take 25% of that off your taxes, so it's the equivalent of paying $15 in interest. Similarly a place to put your money that gives non-taxable interest -- like municipal bonds -- gives a better real rate of return than something with the same nominal rate but where the interest is taxable. Anybody had hear about the new proposed way to fund college tuition like stocks? Any idea how it works? does the performance of the student will have any impact on the way it is funded in a similar way the results of a public company would impact the price of its stock? I know this is a little off the wall but I bought a rental property for my son's tuition. The tenants pay down the mortgage for the next 12 years and it (hopefully) also appreciates in value. Worst case scenario is I come out with a rental and a kid with no education.  He doesn't go then there's no skin off my back.