Making $100,000 USD per month, no idea what to do with it
"I know your ""pain"".  But don't worry about investing the money right now -- leave it uninvested in the short term.  You have other stuff you need to school up on.  Investment will come, and it's not that hard.  In the short term, focus on taxes.  Do some ""mock"" run-throughs of your expected end-of-year taxes (use last year's forms if this year's aren't available yet).  Must you pay estimated tax periodically throughout the year?  The tax authorities charge hefty penalties for ""forgetting"" to do it or ""not knowing you have to"".  Keep an eye out for any other government gotchas.   Do not overlook this!  This is the best investment you could possibly make.  Max out your government sanctioned retirement funds - in the US we have employer plans like 401K or Keogh, and personal plans like the IRA.  This is fairly straightforward.  Avoid any ""products"" the financial advisors want to sell you, like annuities.  Also if you have the Roth type IRA, learn the difference between that and a normal one.  There are some tricks you can do if you expect to have an ""off"" year in the future.  Charitable giving is worth considering at high income levels.  Do not donate directly to charities.  Instead, use a Donor Advised Fund.  It is a charity of its own, which accepts your tax deductible donation, and holds it.  You take the tax deduction that year.  Then later, when the spirit moves, tell your DAF to donate to the charity of your choice.   This eliminates most of the headaches associated with giving.  You don't get on the soft-hearted sucker lists, because you tell the DAF not to disclose your address, phone or email.  You don't need the charity's acknowledgement letter for your taxes, since your donation was actually to the DAF. It shuts down scams and non-charities, since the DAF confirms their nonprofit status and sends the check to their official address only. (This also bypasses those evil for-profit ""fundraising companies"".) It's a lot simpler than they want you to know.  So-called ""financial advisors"" are actually salesmen working on commission.  They urge you to invest, because that's what they sell.  They sell financial products you can't understand because they are intentionally unduly complex, specifically to confuse you.  They are trying to psych you into believing all investments are too complex to understand, so you'll give up and ""just trust them"".  Simple investments exist.  They actually perform better since they aren't burdened down with overhead and internal complexity.  Follow this rule: If you don't understand a financial product, don't buy it.   But seriously, do commit and take the time to learn investment.  You are the best friend your money will have - or its worst enemy.  The only way to protect your money from inflation or financial salesmen is to understand investment yourself. You can have a successful understanding of how to invest from 1 or 2 books. (Certainly not everything; those ingenious salesmen keep making the financial world more complicated, but you don't need any of that junk.)   For instance how do you allocate domestic stocks, foreign stocks, bonds, etc. in an IRA if you're under 40?  Well... how do smaller universities invest their endowments? They all want the same thing you do.  If you look into it, you'll find they all invest about the same.  And that's quite similar to the asset mix Suze Orman recommends for young people's IRAs.  See? Not that complicated.  Then take the time to learn why. It isn't stupid easy, but it is learnable.   For someone in your tier of income, I recommend Suze Orman's books.  I know that some people don't like her, but that segues into a big problem you'll run into:  People have very strong feelings about money.  Intense, irrational emotions.  People get it from their parents or they get sucked into the ""trust trap"" I mentioned with so-called financial advisors.  They bet their whole savings on whatever they're doing, and their ego is very involved.  When they push you toward their salesman or his variable annuity, they want you to agree they invested well.  So you kinda have to keep your head low, not listen too much to friends/family, and do your research for yourself.  John Bogle's book on mutual funds is a must-read for picking mutual funds and allocating assets.  Certain financial advisors are OK.  They are ""fee only"" advisors.  They deal with all their customers on a fee-only basis, and are not connected to a company which sells financial products.  They will be happy for you to keep your money in your account at your discount brokerage, and do your own trading on asset types (not brands) they recommend.  They don't need your password.  Here's what not to do: A good friend strongly recommended his financial advisor.  In the interview, I said I wanted a fee-only advisor, and he agreed to charge me $2000 flat rate.  Later, I figured out he normally works on commissions, because he was selling me the exact same products he'd sell to a commission (free advice) customer, and they were terrible products of course.  I fired him fast." "If you are making that much, don't waste your time here. Pay a few hundred bucks for a consultation with a fee-only certified financial planner. (Not one of the ""free"" services, which make their money via commissions on sales and are thus motivated to direct you to whatever gets them the largest commission.) In fact, in your bracket you might want to consider hiring someone to manage your portfolio for you on an ongoing basis. A good one will start by asking what your goals are, over what timeframe, and will help you determine how you feel about risk and volatility. From that information they will be able to suggest a strategic mix of kinds of investments which is balanced for those constraints." If you already have 500k in a Schwab brokerage account, go see your Schwab financial consultant. They will assign you one, no charge, and in my experience they're sharp people. Sure, you can get a second opinion (or even report back here, maybe in chat?), but they will get you started in the right direction. I'd expect them to recommend a lot of index funds, just a bit of bonds or blended funds, all weighted heavily toward equities. If you're young and expect the income stream to continue, you can be fairly aggressive. Ask about the fees the entire way and you'll be fine. "I would be more than happy to find a good use for your money. ;-) Well, you have a bunch of money far in excess of your regular expenses. The standard things are usually: If you are very confused, it's probably worth spending some of your windfall to hire professional help. It beats you groping in the dark and possibly doing something stupid. But as you've seen, not all ""professionals"" are equal, and finding a good one is another can of worms. If you can find a good one, it's probably worth it. Even better would be for you to take the time and thoroughly educate yourself about investment (by reading books), and then make a knowledgeable decision. Being a casual investor (ie. not full time trader) you will likely arrive, like many do, at a portfolio that is mostly a mix of S&P ETFs and high grade (eg. govt and AAA corporate) bonds, with a small part (5% or so) in individual stock and other more complicated securities. A good financial advisor will likely recommend something similar (I've had good luck with the one at my credit union), and can guide you through the details and technicalities of it all. A word of caution: Since you remark about your car and house, be careful about upgrading your lifestyle. Business is good now and you can afford nicer things, but maybe next year it's not so good. What if you are by then too used to the high life to give it up, and end up under mountains of debt? Humans are naturally optimistic, but be wary of this tendency when making assumptions about what you will be able to afford in the future. That said, if you really have no idea, hey, take a nice vacation, get an art tutor for the kids, spend it (well, ideally not all of it) on something you won't regret. Investments are fickle, any asset can crash tomorrow and ruin your day. But often experiences are easier to judge, and less likely to lose value over time." You want CFP or CFA who is also a fiduciary, meaning that by law they have to put your interests ahead of their own. Financial planners who are not fiduciaries can, and often do, recommend investment vehicles that earn them the most commission with little regard of your financial goals. If you already have $500,000 to invest and racking up $100,000 a month you probably qualify for most institutions private client programs. That means that the firm/advisor will look at your financial situation and come up with a custom-tailored investment plan for you which should also include tax planning. I would start with whatever financial institutions you already work with - Schwab, your bank etc. Set up a meeting and see what they have to offer. Make sure you interrogate them about their fees, their licenses/certifications and above all if they are a fiduciary. In my opinion, I would: If the income is from this year, you can tax shelter $59,000 plus somewhere between $50,000 and $300,000 depending on age, in a 401(k) and defined benefit plan. This will take care of the current tax burden. Afterwards, set aside your remaining tax liability in cash. The after-tax money should be split into cash and the rest into assets. The split depends on your level of risk tolerance. Build a core portfolio using highly liquid and non-correlated ETFs (think SPY, TLT, QQQ, ect.). Once these core positions are locked in. Start lowering your basis by systematically selling a 1 standard deviation call in the ETF per 100 units of underlying. This will reduce your upside, extend your breakeven, and often yield steady income. Similarly, you can sell 1 standard deviation iron condors should the VIX be high enough. Point is, you have the money to deploy a professional-type, systematic strategy that is non-correlated, and income generating. You already did the leg work by putting your money in a Schwab account. They have some of the lowest fees on index funds you can buy. I would keep things dead simple. Decide if you want some of it to be an IRA or not, and then plow your funds into a broad stock only index fund such as SCHB, SCHX, or SCHV (you could buy all three, but there would be no need to whatsoever). You will get around 2-2.5 % dividend yield, be diversified, and have extreme low fees. Fees are key to getting good returns in funds. Of course..set tax money aside as well. "What I would do, in this order: Get your taxes in order. Don't worry about fancy tricks to screw the tax man over; you've already admitted that you're literally making more money than you know what to do with, and a lot of that is supported, one way or another, by infrastructure that's supported by tax money.  Besides, your first priority is to establish basic security for yourself and your family.  Making sure you won't be subjected to stressful audits is an important part of that! Pay off any and all outstanding debts you may have.  This establishes a certain baseline standard of living for you: no matter what unexpected tragedies may come up, at least you won't have to deal with them while also keeping the wolves at bay at the same time! Max out a checking account. I believe the FDIC maximum insured value is $250,000.  Fill 'er up, get a debit card, and just sit on it.  This is a rainy day fund, highly liquid and immediately usable in case you lose your income. Put at least half of it into an IRA or other safe investments.  Bonds and reliable dividend-paying stocks are strongly preferred: having money is good but having income is much better, especially in retirement! Quality of life.  Splurge a little.  (Emphasis on a little!)  Look around your life. There are a few things that it would be nice if you just had, but you've never gotten around to getting.  Pick up a few of them, but don't go overboard.  Spending too much too quickly is a good way to end up with no money and no idea what happened to it.  Also, note that this isn't just for you; family members deserve some love too! Charitable giving.  If you have more money than you know what to do with, there are plenty of people out there who know exactly what to do--try to go on living and build a basic life for themselves--but have no money with which to do so.  Do your research.  Scam charities abound, as do more-or-less legitimate ones who actually do help those in need, but also end up sucking up a surprisingly high percentage of donations for ""administrative costs"".  Try and avoid these and send your money where it will actually do some good in the world. Reinvest in yourself.  You're running a business.  Make sure you have the best tools and training you can afford, now that you can afford more!" "Your #1 problem is the Government both in it's form as a taxation outfit and as a 'law and order' outfit.  You'd be very surprised at how fast a bank seizes your bank account in response to a court order.  Purchase 100 Mexican 50 Peso Gold (1.2 oz/ea).  These coins are cheap (lowest cost to get into) and will not be reportable on sale to taxing authorities.  That money is out of the banking system and legal system(s).  Do not store them in a bank! You need to find a tax strategist, probably a former IRS agent / CPA type. With the rest remaining money...  There's an old saying, Don't fight the Fed.  As well as ""The trend is your friend"".  So, the Fed wants all savers fully invested right now (near 0 interest rates). When investing, I find that if you do exactly opposite what you think is the smart thing, that's the best thing.  Therefore, it follows: 1) Don't fight the Fed 2) Do opposite of smart 3) Do: Fight the Fed (and stay 100% out of the market and in cash) We're looking like Japan so could remain deflationary for decades to come.  Cash is king..."
I would question whether your stated goal (of strictly controlling your expenses) is really the problem you should be tackling.  In my opinion, unless you're under financial hardship where you can barely make ends meet, you're much better off using a budget as a high-level, descriptive tool rather than a low-level, prescriptive tool. This is what I would do in your situation: After the first few months, you can start to think about high-level changes that you can make to your spending habits to get the most bang for your buck.  I wouldn't worry about the little expenses, unless they're really adding up to a sizable chunk of your total expenses.  Instead, I would look at things like: eating out too often, buying too many movies, too many impulse buys over $100, etc. Identifying patterns like that will help you make lifestyle changes that will allow you to spend less money without having to micromanage every single expense.  I have tried the micromanaged approach in the past, and it simply doesn't work for me.  There's too much overhead, and eventually I start to feel that it's just not worth it.  Think about it - is it really worth the extra time and energy required to worry about where every dollar goes all month long just to save an additional hundred bucks over what you can do with this passive approach?   I think that by focusing on the big picture, you can get within a couple percentage points of the same amount of savings as if you had micro-managed your expenses, but with much less work and mental strain. Let's put some numbers on this and see what the hourly returns are with each approach, always being optimistic about the micromanaged approach and conservative on the passive approach.   Let's assume you earn $50,000/year.  Let's also assume that if you micromanage all of your expenses, you could manage to save $5000/year beyond what you do now.  And let's say that with the passive approach, you can get within 20 percentage points instead of the 2 I stated earlier, for a savings of $4000/year.  Now what will your hourly returns look like?  The following are based on how I would personally use both systems, so your numbers may vary a bit. Micromanaged Budgeting Savings = $5000 per year = $416.67 per month  Time spent = 15-30 minutes per day = 7.5 - 15 hours per month  Hourly return = $27.78 - $55.56  Passive Budgeting Savings = $4000 per year = $333.33 per month  Time spent = 1 - 2 hours per month Hourly return = $166.67 - $333.33 So clearly the passive approach gives a substantially higher hourly return, even though it gives a lower absolute return.  Maybe more importantly though, if passive budgeting opens up an extra 10 hours a month, you could potentially put those hours into your job and make an extra (10 hours * $25/hour) = $250 a month, or $3000 per year, assuming no extra pay for overtime.  So that means that the passive budgeting approach would actually allow you to save ($4000 + $3000 * .75) = $6250 per year, compared to the $5000 you would save by micromanaging. If you're in a situation where you can't put those hours into more work and you really need that extra $83.34 per month to help make ends meet, then by all means micromanage your expenses and try to save as much as possible.  But if either of the previous conditions are not true for you, you're much better off, in my opinion, using a passive budget. You can fairly simply make a spreadsheet in your favorite spreadsheet application (or in Google Docs if you want portability). I like to make an overview page that shows how much I take in per month and what fixed bills come out of that, then break the remaining total into four to get a weekly budget. Then, I make one page per month with four columns (one per week), with each row being a category. Sum the categories at the bottom, and subtract from your weekly total: voila, a quick reference of how much you can spend that week without going over budget. I then make a page for each month that lists what I bought and how much I spent on it, so I can trace where my money's gone; the category total is just a summation of the items from that page that belong in that category.  Once you have a system, stop checking your bank balance except to ensure your paycheck is going in alright. Use the spreadsheet to determine how much you can spend at any time. Then make sure you pay off everything on the card before the end of the month so you don't incur interest. "Answers: 1. Is this a good idea? Is it really risky? What are the pros and cons? Yes, it is a bad idea. I think, with all the talk about employer matches and tax rates at retirement vs. now, that you miss the forest for the trees. It's the taxes on those retirement investments over the course of 40 years that really matter. Example: Imagine $833 per month ($10k per year) invested in XYZ fund, for 40 years (when you retire). The fund happens to make 10% per year over that time, and you're taxed at 28%. How much would you have at retirement? 2. Is it a bad idea to hold both long term savings and retirement in     the same investment vehicle, especially one pegged to the US stock     market? Yes. Keep your retirement separate, and untouchable. It's supposed to be there for when you're old and unable to work. Co-mingling it with other funds will induce you to spend it (""I really need it for that house! I can always pay more into it later!""). It also can create a false sense of security (""look at how much I've got! I got that new car covered...""). So, send 10% into whatever retirement account you've got, and forget about it. Save for other goals separately.  3. Is buying SPY a ""set it and forget it"" sort of deal, or would I need     to rebalance, selling some of SPY and reinvesting in a safer vehicle     like bonds over time? For a retirement account, yes, you would. That's the advantage of target date retirement funds like the one in your 401k. They handle that, and you don't have to worry about it. Think about it: do you know how to ""age"" your account, and what to age it into, and by how much every year? No offense, but your next question is what an ETF is! 4. I don't know ANYTHING about ETFs. Things to consider/know/read? Start here: http://www.investopedia.com/terms/e/etf.asp 5. My company plan is ""retirement goal"" focused, which, according to     Fidelity, means that the asset allocation becomes more conservative     over time and switches to an ""income fund"" after the retirement     target date (2050). Would I need to rebalance over time if holding     SPY? Answered in #3. 6. I'm pretty sure that contributing pretax to 401k is a good idea     because I won't be in the 28% tax bracket when I retire. How are the     benefits of investing in SPY outweigh paying taxes up front, or do     they not? Partially answered in #1. Note that it's that 4 decades of tax-free growth that's the big dog for winning your retirement. Company matches (if you get one) are just a bonus, and the fact that contributions are tax free is a cherry on top. 7. Please comment on anything else you think I am missing I think what you're missing is that winning at personal finance is easy, and winning at personal finance is hard" Is it possible to open a GBP bank account in Pakistan ? Yes you can. Quite a few Banks offer Foreign currency accounts in GBP [or USD or EUR, JPY] Are there any risks in doing so ? Generally no. As per Protection of Economic Reforms Act (PERA) of 1992 and foreign currency accounts (protection) ordinance 2001 the funds are protected and you can move them back out of Pakistan any time. However if you are looking at investing into property and then selling it after few years, there maybe difficulties in such transactions and consult a tax advisor familiar with such cases. All money is legit with bank statements of my pay which is between 35K and 40K per year, am I going to have any trouble at airport as limit is £7K only Carrying cash of this amount is generally not advisable. It is best to do a Bank to Bank transfer. You can visit one of the Pakistan Bank that has branch in UK [say Standard Chartered, Citi, HSBC, etc]. They should be able to open account with transfer of funds. There is no limitation on carrying foreign exchange in cash when you enter Pakistan. However when you are travelling out of Pakistan you can only carry USD 10,000 or eq. per person. Is there really that many subscribers? It's about 10$ a month depending on what country you live in. 100m*10*12 = 12 b revenue per year. Unless I'm wrong, but this is the internet, I am sure someone will correct me. "This is clearly a scam, and you should stay away from it. Anyone reading this knew that from the title alone - and it seems that you know it too. Don't ""test"" whether something is a scam by putting your own money in it. That is exactly how these scammers make money, and how you lose it. How their scam works is irrelevant. The simple fact is that there is no way you can safely earn 20% return over the course of a year, let alone in 1 day*. You know this is true. Don't bother trying to figure out what makes it true in this case. There is no free lunch. Best case scenario, this is a hyper-risky investment strategy [on the level of putting your money down at a roulette wheel]. Worst case scenario, they simply steal your money. Either way, you won't come out ahead. Although I agree with others that this is likely a Ponzi scheme, that doesn't really matter. What matters is, there is no way they can guarantee those returns. Just go to a casino and throw your money away yourself, if you want that level of risk.  *For reference, if you invested $100 for a year, earning 20% returns every day, you would have 6 million trillion trillion dollars by the end of the year. that's $6,637,026,647,624,450,000,000,000,000,000. that number doesn't even make sense. It's more money than exists on earth. So why would they need your $100?" Yes under certain circumstances! Educate yourself first. Consider algorithmic trading when you code your strategies and implement your ideas - a bit easier for psychology. And let the computer to trade for you. Start with demo account without taking personal risk. Only after a year of experience try small amount of cash like you said 100$. Avoid trade when big news events are released. Stick to strategy, use money management, stop loss, write results in the journal... learn & improve... be careful it is very hard journey. "Your objectives are contradictory and/or not possible. Eliminating the non-taxable objective: You could divide the $100K in 5 increments, making a ""CD ladder"" $25K in 3mo CD (or savings a/c) $25K in 6 mo CD $25K in 9mo CD $25K in 1 yr CD or similar structure (6mo also works well) Every maturing CD you are able to access cash and/or invest in another longest maturity CD, and earn a higher rate of interest. This plan also works well to plan for future interest rates hikes. If you are forced to access (sell CD's)  ALL the $$$ at any time, you will only lose accrued interest, none of the principal.  All FDIC guaranteed. If non-taxable is the highest priority, ""invest"" in a tax-free money market fund....see Vanguard Funds. You will not have FDIC guarantee."