Is a fixed-price natural gas or electricity contract likely to save money?
In my area, the fixed prices are based on an average. My gas company will look at my previous months (six months if I remember correctly) payments and give me an average based on that amount. Then I am contracted for a year based on that average. If I lower my costs, I'm under contract and will not see the savings but if I go over for some reason, I will save money there. It really depends on how your utility companies work so I would check with them, look at your previous billing cycles and determine if the plan will possibly save you money. Of course some things can't be planned for such as the economic downturn like someone else mentioned. I can only speak to natural gas but I imagine the answer for electricity is the same. In general, yes, it is better to lock into a fixed price contract as in the long run, natural gas prices increase over time.  However, if you locked (signed a fixed price contract) in prior to the economic downturn, most likely you were better off not doing so but the key is long-term. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_gas_prices However, do your research as fixed priced contracts vary considerably from company to company. http://www.energyshop.com/ I think it's a good time to sign a fixed-term contract right now as I don't see prices coming down much further with global economies are now recovering from the downturn. HTH "I have some numbers to share that may help.  I've been tracking my home's natural gas consumption in a spreadsheet for years.  Much of that time I'd only been interested in the quantity used – to measure my home's efficiency after certain upgrades – but in 2006 I also started tracking the ""Gas Supply Charge"" costs from my local utility, Enbridge, in Ontario, Canada.  My numbers are for the gas commodity only (i.e. excluding delivery and customer charges.) I've never been on a fixed-price contract, so the numbers are supposed to be reflective of market rates.  However, the numbers do differ from real ""spot prices"" because Enbridge estimates gas costs up-front and then applies a ""gas cost adjustment"" at later dates if their estimate was wrong. Natural gas cost per cubic meter for Chris's home http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/6406/naturalgascosts3priorye.png Since 2006, natural gas prices have been generally falling.  The last cost I have on file, from my November 2009 bill, is 12.9 cents per cubic meter – being ~20 cents gas supply rate, less gas cost adjustment of ~7 cents.  My average cost over that nearly 4 year period, January 2006 through November 2009, was 38.4 cents per cubic meter. Considering the current 5-year fixed rate I found is about 29 cents per cubic meter, there is a substantial premium to locking in when compared to current market rates.  However, one can see that during the last 4 years, market prices did substantially exceed that rate for quite some time.  Furthermore, when I last looked at those 5-year fixed rates perhaps a year or more ago, I couldn't find a company charging less than 39 cents per cubic meter.  So, contract rates have fallen as well. Consequently, if we are at a natural gas price low and the economy is to recover, I tend to agree with Cart's answer and suggest it could be a good time to consider a fixed-rate contract. But, do your own due diligence and read the fine print if you go for it. UPDATE: In the interest of full disclosure, shortly after I did my own research above, I signed up for my first ever fixed-rate natural gas contract. :-)" "The answer to this question will vary considerably by state and how utilities are regulated in your area. In New York, ESCOs (Energy Supply Companies) are almost always a ripoff for consumers versus the old-style regulated utility (in NY the utility supply markups are tightly regulated, but ESCOs are less regulated).  You also need to really understand the marketplace rules for ""locking in"" a price. If you can lock in the July price for natural gas for a year, that rocks. There are other factors as well. But even then its a real bet, since weather and supply factors can have a dramatic effect on gas prices in the winter. IMO, the best bet is to run with the market rates and bank the efficiency improvements that you build into your home over time. Some utilities offer ""budget plans"" that smooth out your payments without interest -- I'd recommend that route if predictable bills are your goal." I would argue: Because the company only offers you this if it can make money from it. What you are basically doing is betting against the company.
Like @littleadv, I don't consider a mortgage on a primary residence to be a low-risk investment.  It is an asset, but one that can be rather illiquid, depending on the nature of the real estate market in your area.  There are enough additional costs associated with home-ownership (down-payment, insurance, repairs) relative to more traditional investments to argue against a primary residence being an investment. Your question didn't indicate when and where you bought your home, the type of home (single-family, townhouse, or condo) the nature of your mortgage (fixed-rate or adjustable rate), or your interest rate, but since you're in your mid-20s, I'm guessing you bought after the crash.  If that's the case, your odds of making a profit if/when you sell your home are higher than they would be if you bought in the 2006/2007 time-frame.  This is no guarantee of course.  Given the amount of housing stock still available, housing prices could still fall further.  While it is possible to lose money in all sorts of investments, the illiquid nature of real estate makes it a lot more difficult to limit your losses by selling. If preserving principal is your objective, money market funds and treasury inflation protected securities are better choices than your home.  The diversification your financial advisor is suggesting is a way to manage risk.  Not all investments perform the same way in a given economic climate.  When stocks increase in value, bonds tend to decrease (and vice versa).  Too much money in a single investment means you could be wiped out in a downturn. Discount Water Heater company offers a wide array of hot water heater solutions. We repair existing gas water heaters and electric water heaters. We install high efficiency gas water heaters and electric water heaters and we can also install a new high efficiency heat pump water heater for your home. We service tank less water heaters by Rinnai Tankless, Noritz Tankless and Takagi Tankless. Discount Water Heater Company offers the best hot water heater prices in Southern California. Discount Water Heaters offers free water heater estimates for residential hot water heater replacement and commercial hot water heater replacement. "Not specifically a ""stream"", but there are royalty companies that operate based on a similar concept. With a royalty, a party will pay upfront to a another party, usually a product manufacturer, oil & gas producer, or miner, and in return they will receive a percentage of the proceeds from the sale of the goods.  For example, Company A owns 100 sections of land which carry mineral rights and they would like to drill on the land to produce oil & gas. However, Company A does not have the capital to produce the resource. Company B, a royalty company, agrees to provide upfront capital to Company A in return for a royalty, sometimes fixed, sometimes sliding scale based on other factors. The royalty is calculated based on a percentage of the sales proceeds that Company A receives from the sale of their oil & gas production.  In this way, royalty companies act similarly to streaming companies, where they provide upfront capital and in return receive a cash flow stream that is dependant on another party's actions. What is different is that the selling price is not fixed. Instead, it is the % of proceeds that is fixed, at least in the short term.  In Canada, PrairieSky Royalty and Freehold Royalties do exactly this." You're looking at a used car, which is good, but I think you can still be much wiser with the type of car you're looking to purchase. Maybe I'm such a fuddy-duddy because I didn't own a car until I was 25, but let's break this down with a small comparison: If you drive 1,000 miles per month with gas at $4/gallon -- which is absurdly conservative, I think -- for five years, then you're looking at an extra $60/month for just gas, and probably twice the payment, compared with a perfectly reliable but more fuel-efficient car from the same year.  (Disclosure:  I own a 2004 Corolla and love it.  I got mine in 2007 for under $10k, and I paid cash.) $300/month or so is a good chunk of change, no?  I'd do even more, and pay that loan off (which will almost certainly be less than $500/month) faster by throwing $500/month at it.  You'll save hundreds of dollars in interest. Edit based on your additions: There's one thing that you don't see yet that I have.  It's only because you're in your early 20s and I'm pushing 40. It is far easier to sock money away when you're single and don't have a family to take care of. (I'm assuming you're not married yet and that you don't have kids.  Hopefully it's not a poor assumption.) I would be saving like crazy now if I were in your position.  You have a great job for fresh out of college.  My first job started ten years ago after grad school at the same salary you're making.  Man, it was so easy to save money back then.  Now that I'm married with a daughter, a lot of that cushion goes away.  I wouldn't trade it for the world, but that's the price of being head of household. If you have any intentions of not being a hermit for the rest of your life (and I hope you do) then you'd be wise to save as much as you can now. His TTIP energy deal [is really scary](http://action.sierraclub.org/site/DocServer/Analysis_of_EU_Energy_Proposal_TTIP.pdf). because the US could have to pay literally billions of dollars in compensation if we decide for almost any reason to stop fracking.   Just like with the insurance companies and healthcare insurance.  Which is just as crazy because fracking wells only last a short time. its projected to raise the price of energy in the US, a lot.  The rest of what I think is too speculative but it involves a big scam, like the bank scam in 2008. Targeting US taxpayers. I see it coming. Thats how they operate now. On international stock exchanges, they trade Puts and Calls, typically also for currencies. If for example 1 NOK is worth 1 $ now, and you buy Calls for 10000 NOK at 1.05 $ each, and in a year the NOK is worth 1.20 $ (which is what you predict), you can execute the Call, meaning 'buying' the 10000 NOK for the contracted 1.05 $ and selling them for the market price of 1.20 $, netting you 12000 - 10500 = 1500 $. Converting those back to NOK would give you 1250 NOK. Considering that those Calls might cost you maybe 300 NOK, you made 950 NOK. Note that if your prediction is common knowledge, Calls will be appropriately priced (=expensive), and there is little to make on them. And note also that if you were wrong, your Calls are worth less than toilet paper, so you lost the complete 300 NOK you paid for them. [all numbers are completely made up, for illustration purposes] You can make the whole thing easier if you define the raise of the NOK against a specific currency, for example $ or EUR. If you can, you can instead buy Puts for that currency, and you save yourself converting the money twice. Hmmm. I hadn't considered that energy usage would be considered confidential. How about asking a nearby neighbor to share their next bill. If it's higher or lower than yours, just scale the history up or down accordingly.  Other than that, the utility company might offer its own level billing plan where they handle the estimate and offer you the same payment each month. A home equity loan (not a HELOC home equity line of credit) typically comes with far lower fees, but a slightly higher rate.  As rates fell over the last decade, I saw a choice of the Equity Loan with no cost at all, or a refinance with a few thousand in closing costs. We refinanced 3 times with the home equity loan, the last one was 5%. As the 15 year regular mortgage hit 3.5%, it seemed worth the costs, about $1800, to get the low rate, and expecting that rates would go lower. The 1.5% savings on the balance put our breakeven at fewer than 6 months.  If you truly meant HELOC, the variable aspect is the risk, as rates how little room down from here, but much room to rise.