Why do credit cards require a minimum annual household income?
Here's one reason that's being overlooked in answers so far. (@ChrisInEdmonton, this is for your comment on @Chad's answer.) How do credit card companies make money? Sure, there's interest charges, but those are offset significantly by the cost of borrowing money, and by people defaulting on their debt / entering bankruptcy. The other way they make money is by processing transactions. They get a cut of whatever you buy. If you're a high-income person, and you're going to process a lot of expenditures with this credit card, your business is worth more. They will be willing to bribe you with things like cash-back, frequent flier miles, and insurance on your auto rentals, so that they can be your #1 go-to card.  (This works in concert with the way that some credit card vendors with richer clientele overall - American Express - get to charge higher merchant fees for access to these customers' wallets. But that was mentioned in other answers.) If you're not a high-income person, your business is worth less. If you go somewhere asking for credit, they're going to try and give you a card which will earn them the most money - which probably isn't the one where they give you back 50% of their transaction fee in rewards. It's a calculated risk, since they still have to compete against cash, debit cards, and all the other credit card companies, so they don't have you totally over a barrel, but you shouldn't expect as many freebies, either. While you're asking about a particular bank, I'll give my opinion of this in general.  I think a $12,000 household income is pretty low to be given credit. The risk to the bank is certainly higher than if the income were at that $35,000 level. They can use this to differentiate what they offer for perks, and if they ever collateralize the debt of these cards, it's a clearly defined demographic. "I don't know, but I can guess. You'll notice the Elite card has higher rewards. A card might want to convince merchants that they represent high end buyers, and use that to negotiate higher merchant discounts. Issuing bank: ""Our 10 million card holders are sophisticated and have lots of discretionary income. If you don't agree to this rate, we'll terminate the contract and they will take their business elsewhere.""  Merchant: ""But it's twice the rate of everyone else! I'm sure these customers have other means of payment, and besides, how many of those card holders are actually using it?"" Issuing bank: ""Our cardholders signal their interest in the benefits of cardholding by paying us an annual fee. If they didn't want one, they'd stop paying right? They clearly know they have one and our records indicate they use them regularly. We're pretty sure if you don't wise up they'll shop at your biggest competitor, another client of ours. pause Frankly, they already do.""" It is much simpler than any of that.  People who make money have a greater capacity to pay their bills.  Credit card companies make money off of people who can afford to pay several hundred dollars a month in interest charges.  If you only make 500 a month you can not afford to pay 200 in interest.  So their cost of doing business with you is higher.  These cards are issued to make money.  And they make their money off of people paying 12-29% interest on their 5k+ credit limits they have nearly maxed.
"&gt; Go on, try walking away without signing your credit card receipt at stores where they present it for signature, and see what happens.  That's true... if the amount is over $25. Did you notice it? Actually, at Costco is over $50.  And you know what else is true? That yes, they require you to squibble something, but you can write an obvious incorrect signature and nobody will care. You have no idea how many times the screen with the electronic pen did not work right, so I just put couple of lines...  &gt;&gt;  know what I am talking about because I deal with credit cards a lot, professionally, in IT.  &gt; You and everyone else. Big deal. Different credit card processors have different requirements for their customers (merchants).  Just because different processors have different requirements makes the whole process impossible to manage or comply with. Go figure out the requirement based on the card presented.  &gt;&gt; The credit card companies don't really care.  &gt; I think the real lesson here is nobody cares.   The merchant cares, because they are ultimately responsible for paying for fraud... which is the main reason why credit card companies don't care... and many merchants too because they have insurance...  The bottom line is that everyone would not mind to enter a PIN to get the transaction through, but a stupid ego trip of the credit card companies who don't want to be ""like ATMs"". That's it.  So they came up with chip in the card, which made the process slower and more expensive, and does not solve anything except fake credit cards (copied credit cards)." The minimum amount is set by the merchant services provider based on the kind of business, its location and the history. It mostly has nothing to do with you personally. However, the minimum amount differs based on the kind of credit cards being used. For example, foreign credit cards will require signatures on much lower amounts than domestic.  In my local Safeway (NoCal analog of Ralph's) the limit for domestic credit cards is set at $50. If your credit limit is $5000, you might think that its a 1% of your limit. But if your limit is $50000 or $500 - it will still be $50. You cannot deduce anything about a specific person's credit situation based on whether or not they are required to sign the receipt. It has no affect on the decision. The two things are materially different. Point number 1.  With a credit card, the bank (and card network) earn a fee every time you spend on your card.  You swipe a $100 dinner, the credit card company makes about $3.  You pay it back, they may not make any interest but they've made their $3.  Additionally, if you have a $1,000,000 credit limit, you've only actually borrowed $100; which brings me to point number 2.   Point number 2.  A credit limit of $X is not in any way the same as a loan for $X.  When you seek a personal loan, the lender hands you money in equal amount to your loan, less any origination fees that may apply.  Your loan for $8,000 results in $8,000 being wired to your account.  Your credit limit is only a loan when you actually charge something.  Until then its a simple (adjustable) risk limit set by the bank's underwriters. Point number 3.  Your credit report contains no income information.  It's up to the lender to determine what sort of risk they're willing to take.  Some personal lenders are just fine with stated income and employer contact information.  Some lenders want to see some pay-stubs.  Some lenders will lend $X on stated income but won't lend $X+1 without income verification.  Some will lend the money at a lower interest rate if you do prove your income and employment.  It's all lender specific.  Credit card issuers are clearly lax on the income verification piece of the equation because of points number 1 and 2. Point number 4.  If you're getting a loan for your required mortgage down-payment you are a much bigger repayment risk than you realize. A traditional bank is not likely to give you a loan if you have no source of income. Credit card application forms also ask for your current income level and may reject you based on not having a job. You might want to make a list of income and expenses and look closely at which expenses can be reduced or eliminated. Use 6 months of your actual bills to calculate this list. Also make a list of your assets and liabilities. A sheet that lists income/expenses and assets/liabilities is called a Financial Statement. This is the most basic tool you'll need to get your expenses under control. There are many other options for raising capital to pay for your monthly expenses: Sell off your possessions that you no longer need or can't afford Ask for short term loan help from family and friends  Advertise for short term loan help on websites such as Kijiji Start a part-time business doing something that you like and people need. Tutoring, dog-walking, photography, you make the list and pick from it. Look into unemployment insurance. Apply as soon as you are out of work. The folks at the unemployment office are willing to answer all your questions and help you get what you need. Dip into your retirement fund. To reduce your expenses, here are a few things you may not have considered: If you own your home, make an appointment with your bank to discuss renegotiation of your mortgage payments. The bank will be more interested in helping you before you start missing payments than after. Depending on how much equity you have in your home, you may be able to significantly reduce payments by extending the life of the mortgage. Your banker will be impressed if you can bring them a balance sheet that shows your assets, liabilities, income and expenses.   As above, for car payments as well. Call your phone, cable, credit card, and internet service providers and tell them you want to cancel your service. This will immediately connect you to Customer Retention. Let them know that you are having a hard time paying your bill and will either have to negotiate a lower payment or cancel the service. This tactic can significantly reduce your payments. When you have your new job, there are some things you can do to make sure this doesn't happen again: Set aside 10% of your income in a savings account. Have it automatically deducted from your income at source if you can. 75% of Americans are 4 weeks away from bankruptcy. You can avoid this by forcing yourself to save enough to manage your household finances for 3 - 6 months, a year is better. If you own your own home, take out a line of credit against it based on the available equity. Your bank can help you with that. It won't cost you anything as long as you don't use it. This is emergency money; do not use it for vacations or car repairs. There will always be little emergencies in life, this line of credit is not for that.  Pay off your credit cards and loans, most expensive rate first. Use 10% of your income to do this. When the first one is paid off, use the 10% plus the interest you are now saving to pay off the next most expensive card/loan. Create a budget you can stick to. You can find a great budget calculator here: http://www.gailvazoxlade.com/resources/interactive_budget_worksheet.html Note I have no affiliation with the above-mentioned site, and have a great respect for this woman's ability to teach people about how to handle money. "They don't have to take cash if they reasonably told you in advance they don't take cash, because they made fair effort to prevent you from incurring a debt.  They don't have to take cash if the transaction hasn't yet happened (not a debt) or if it can be easily undone at no cost to either party - such as a newspaper subscription they can just stop delivering.  Both of these reasons are limited by the rules against discrimination, see below.  They don't have to take cash if it's impracticable. For instance a transit bus when fares first went to $1.00, it took years to fund new fareboxes able to take paper money.  You don't have to take a mortgage payment in pennies.  Liquor stores don't have to take $100 bills. (it requires them to keep too much change in the till, which makes them a robbery target).  Trouble arises when it appears there's an ulterior motive for the rule.   Suppose a Landlord Jim requires rent to be paid with EFT.  Rent-controlled Marcie tells the judge ""It's a scheme to oust me, he knows I'm unbanked"".  Jim counters ""No. I got mugged last month because criminals know when I collect cash rents.""  It will turn on whether Jim can show good-faith effort to work with his unbanked tenants to find other ways to pay. If Jim does a particularly bad job of this, he could find himself paying Marcie's legal bills! Even worse if the ulterior motive is discrimination. Chet the plumber hates Muslims. Alice the feed supplier hates the Amish.  So they decide to take credit cards only, knowing those people's religions don't allow them.  Their goose is cooked once they can't show any other reasonable reason to refuse cash." Correct. By putting expenses on to a credit card which does not charge interest during the grace period, and paying that balance every month, in effect you earn interest on money you've already spent. However, first, savings account interest is something like .05% right now depending on your bank. Yeah it's money, but seriously, that's 4 cents per month on $1000.  Second, two things can make this very wrong. If you carry a balance, you'll pay much more in interest than you'd get from practically any investment you could make with the cash in the meantime. Second, a debit card can be used to get cash you already have from an ATM (not everyone takes credit, you know), and it'll cost you little or nothing. Use a credit card for the same purpose and you're paying 40% from the second the money comes out of the machine. Also correct. Rewards cards earn you more the more they're used. That's because the card issuer makes money based on usage; they get 3% of each transaction. They're happy to turn 1% of that, up to a limit or subject to a spending floor, back around to you. Again, check the terms and conditions. Most cards have a limit on total rewards. Many of them also have fees, either while you hold the card or when you try to redeem the rewards. Look for a card with high limits or no limits on rewards from spending, and with no annual fee or reward redemption fee. In addition to the above, you build good credit history with good spending patterns. However, your credit score can fluctuate wildly, because on one day you have very low leverage (percent of credit limit used), and on the next you've bought $200 in groceries and so your leverage went up 20% on a card with a $1000 limit. Leverage under 10% is good, leverage under 40% is OK and leverage over that starts looking bad. With a $1000 limit, with you maxing it out and then paying it off, your credit score can fluctuate by 30 points on any given day. Well, there are also cases where inflation actually helps you, individually, as a consumer. For example, if you have a mortgage or any other debt, debtors benefit from the value of a dollar today decreasing tomorrow.  In a very general sense, psychologically you want to avoid deflationary periods as well as it tends to seize up an economy (why would I spend a dollar today if it will be worth more tomorrow?).  Sure, the absolute value of a dollar decreases over time, but this is intentionally designed to diminish the value of hoarding cash today. Standard income should rise approximately with the rate of inflation, so from an absolute purchasing power standpoint you should remain approximately neutral. "As was stated, households earning over $250k/yr don't all get their income one way. Below that threshold, even in the six figure range, most households are in one of two categories; salary/wage/commission workers, and those living off of nest eggs/entitlements (retired, disabled, welfare). Above $250k, though, are a lot of disparate types of incomes: Now, you specifically mentioned wage earners above $250k. Wage earners typically have the same ""tax havens"" that most of us do; the difference is usually that they are better able to make use of them: In other words, there are many ways for a high-end wage earner to live the good life and write a lot of it off."