Using multiple bank accounts
There is nothing conceptually wrong with it.  If you like it that way, go ahead. The only thing to watch out for is bank policies that effectively penalize having many small accounts.  For instance, some banks charge you a fee for checking accounts with a balance below a certain minimum, but will waive the fees for accounts with a higher balance.  You may be able to avoid such fees by judicious management of your funds (or by switching to a different bank), but it's something to be aware of.  (The interest rates on savings accounts also often vary with the balance, making many small balances less efficient than one big balance.  However, right now, at least in the US, interest rates on savings accounts are so low that the difference here is likely to be minimal.) "I live near historic Concord, Massachusetts, and frequently drive past Walden Pond. I'm reminded of Henry David Thoreau's words,  ""Simplify, simplify, simplify."" In my opinion, fewer is better. 2 checkbooks? I don't see how that makes budgeting any easier. The normal set of expenses are easily kept as one bucket, one account.  The savings 2&3 accounts can also be combined and tracked if you really want to think of them as separate accounts.  Now, when you talk about 'Retirement' that can be in tax-wise retirement accounts, e.g. 401(k), IRA, etc. or post tax regular brokerage accounts. In our situation, the Schwab non-retirement account was able to handle emergency (as money market funds) along with vacation/rainy day, etc, in CDs of different maturities. As an old person, I remember CDs at 10% or higher, so leaving money in lower interest accounts wasn't good. Cash would go to CDs at 1-5 year maturities to maximize interest, but keep money maturing every 6-9 months.  Even with the goal of simplifying, my wife and I each have a 401(k), an IRA, and a Roth IRA, I also have an inherited Roth, and I manage my teen's Roth and brokerage accounts. That's 9 accounts right there. No way to reduce it.  To wrap it up, I'd go back to the first 4 you listed, and use the #4 checking attached to the broker account to be the emergency fund. Now you're at 3. Any higher granularity can be done with a spreadsheet.  Think of it this way - the day you see the house you love, will you not be so willing to give up that year's vacation?"
This will probably require some explanation from you on the source of the money and the reasons for the transaction. Cash transactions over $10k will be reported by the bank (in this case) on a CTR report to FinCEN. Keep in mind, mere breaking the transaction into multiple smaller ones in order to avoid the CTR is on its own a criminal offense. Just deposit what you want to deposit, and report what's needed to be reported. Note that if you're a US tax resident - these foreign bank accounts must have been reported already to FinCEN via FBAR, if not - you should expect a very nasty audit with the IRS. Yes.  In the US these are called certificates of deposit or savings accounts.  Every run-of-the-mill bank offers them.  You give the bank money and in return they pay you an interest rate that is some fraction of or (negative) offset from the returns they expect to make from your money. Since most investments that a bank makes (say, loaning money to a local business) are themselves based on some multiple of or (positive) offset from the prime rate, in return the interest rate that they offer you is also mathematically based on the prime rate. You can find lists of banks offering the best returns on CDs or savings accounts at sites like BankRate. Restricting the discussion only to Internet hacking:   In Option 2 or Option 3, you have to realize that the funds are credited to a specific Registered Bank Account. So the max damage an hacker can do is liquidate your holding. In Option 2, the Banking Internet Login and the Broker Internet Login will be different, For example HDFC Bank and HDFC Securities. In Option 3, if you choose your Bank, then it will be the same Login. If you choose a Non-Bank as provider then there is a different login. The risk is no different to investing in shares. In the end its up to an individual, there is nothing that stops you from opening multiple accounts in option 2 and option 3 and buying the stocks worth particular value. From an overall risk point of view; Option 2 seems best suited as the units are held in a Demat from by a Depository. "What you have is usually called a pre-paid credit card.  You pay some money (Indian Rupees) to the credit card company, and then you can use the card to pay for purchases etc in foreign (non-Indian) currencies upto the remaining balance on the card. If a proposed charge exceeds the remaining balance, the transaction will be declined when you try to use the card.  There might be multiple ways that the card is set up, e.g. it might be restricted to charge purchases denominated in US dollars alone, or you might be able to use it anywhere in the world (except India).  The balance on the card might be denominated in INR, or in US$, say. In the latter case, the exchange rate at which your INR payment was converted into the $US balance is fixed and agreed to at the time of the original payment: you paid INR 70K (say) and the balance was set to US$ 1000 even though the exchange rate on the open market would have given you a few more US dollars. In the former case with the balance denominated in INR, a charge of US$ 100, say, would be converted to INR at a fixed agreed-upon rate, or at the current exchange rate that the Visa or MasterCard network is using, plus (typically) a 3% fee currency exchange fee, and your balance in INR will decrease accordingly. With all that as prologue, if you made a purchase from Walmart USA and later returned it for a credit, it should increase your credit card balance  appropriately. You may be whacked with currency conversion fees along the way depending on how your card is set up, but with a US$-denominated card, a credit of US$100 should increase your card balance by US$100. So, that $US 100 can be spent on something else instead.  In short, the card is   your ""bank"" account. You cannot spend more than the remaining balance on the card just like you cannot withdraw more money from your bank account than you have in the account, and you can recharge your card by making more INR payments into it so as to increase the available balance. But it is like a current account in that you are unlikely to earn interest on the balance the way you do with a savings account. So what if you are back in India and have no further use of this card? Can you get your balance back as cash or deposit into your regular bank account? Call the Customer Help line, or read the card agreement you signed." Looks like you have three options: Outside of this you might need to look for a different type of account. Hope that helps. Banks make mistakes.  Reconciling your account with your bank statement is the way to catch the errors. I'd say it's a limitation of your bank. Every bank I've ever used had instant transfers between accounts at the same bank. "I also talked to the IRS yesterday to get a few of my own questions answered, and I asked a few of these while I was at it (as I didn't know the answers for sure either, even after reading IRS pub 969). To answer your specific questions: I would, however, like to confirm a few things: You are allowed to have multiple HSA accounts. My company forces me to   use a specific bank if they are going to be make contributions.   However, I would like to move this money to a higher-risk/higher-yield   account. You are allowed to withdraw money to reimburse any past payments that   were made after the HSA is opened – perhaps years later. This would   allow me to accumulate interest on the money and then get reimbursed   later. You can transfer money between HSAs, etc. and the money will still   cover any payments since the first HSA was opened? I am currently unmarried and without children. An HSA can be made to   pay for any dependent or spouse medical bills as well. I am currently   signed up with an HSA that is marked as ""individual"" or something. I   assume that once I get married, I should have no issues using this   money from the past on my wife and kids? Note that I am not a certified tax professional and you should not rely on this information for your own tax decisions, but should investigate or contact the IRS yourself."