What are my options for this high interest student loan?
"There is no magic formula to this, quite simply: earn, cut expenses, and pay.  It sounds like you can use a little bit of help in the earning area.  While it sounds like you are career focused (which is great) what else can you do to earn?   Can you start a low cost of entry side business?  Examples would include tutoring, consulting, or even baby sitting.  Can you work a part time job that is outside of your career field (waiter, gas station, etc...)? One thing that will help greatly is a written budget each and every month.  Have a plan on where to spend your money.   Then as you pay off a loan throw that money at the next one. No matter if you use the smallest loan first or highest interest rate first method if you do that your debt payments will ""snowball"", and you will gain momentum. I'd encourage you to keep good records and do projections.  Keeping good records will give you hope when you begin to feel discouraged (it happens to just about everyone).  Doing projections will give you goals to meet and then exceed.   The wife and I had a lot of success using the cash envelope system and found that we almost always had money left over at the end of the pay cycle.  For us that money went to pay off more debt.     Do you contribute to a 401K?  I'd cut that to at least the match, and if you want to get crazy cut it to zero.   The main thing to know is that you can do it. I'd encourage you to pay off all your loans not just the high interests ones."
"Let me give you some advice from someone who has experience at both ends - had student loan issues myself and parents ran financial aid department at local university. Quick story of my student loan.  I graduated in debt and could not pay at first due to having kids way too early.  I deferred.  Schools will have rules for deference.  There are also federal guidelines - lets not get specific on this though since these change every year it seems.   So basically there is an initial deferment period in which any student can request for the repayments to be deferred and it is granted.  Then there is an extended deferment.  Here someone has to OK it.  This is really rather arbitrary and up to the school/lender.  My school decided to not extend mine after I filled out a mound of paperwork and showed that even without paying I had basically $200 a month for the family to live off past housing/fixed expenses. Eventually they had to cave, because I had no money so they gave me an extended deferment.  After the 5 years I started paying.  Since my school had a very complex way to pay, I decided to give them 6 months at a time.  You would think they would love that right?  (On the check it was clearly stated what months I was paying for to show that I was not prepaying the loan off) Well I was in collections 4 months later.  Their billing messed up, set me up for prepayment.  They then played dumb and acted like I didn't but I had a picture of the check and their bank's stamp on the back... They couldn't get my loan out of collections - even though they messed up.  This is probably some lower level employee trying to cover their mistake.  So this office tells creditors to leave me alone but I also CANNOT pay my loan because the credit collection agency has slapped a 5k fee on the 7k loan.  So my loan spent 5 years (kid you not) like this.  It was interest free since the employee stopped the loan processing. Point being is that if you don't pay the lender will either put your loan into deferment automatically or go after you.  MOST (not all) schools will opt for deferment, which I believe is 2 years at most places.  Then after that you have the optional deferment.  So if you keep not paying they might throw you into that bucket.   However if you stop paying and you never communicate with them the chances of you getting the optional deferment are almost none - unless school doesn't know where you live.  Basically if you don't respond to their mail/emails you get swept into their credit collection process.  So just filling out the deferment stuff when you get it - even if they deny it - could buy you up to 10 years - kid you not.   Now once you go into the collection process... anything is game.  As long as you don't need a home/car loan you can play this game.  What the collection agency does depends on size of loan and the rules.  If you are at a ""major"" university the rules are usually more lax, but if you are at the smaller schools, especially the advertised trade/online schools boom - better watch out.  Wages will be garnished very soon.  Expect to go to court, might have to hire an attorney because some corrupt lenders start smacking on fees - think of the 5k mine smacked on me.   So the moral of the story is you will pay it off.  If you act nice, fill out paperwork, talk to school, and so on you can probably push this off quite a few years.  But you are still paying and you will pay interest on everything.  So factor in that to the equation.  I had a 2.3% loan but they are much higher now.   Defaulting isn't always a bad thing.  If you don't have the money then you don't have it.  And using credit cards to help is not the thing to do.  But you need to try to work with the school so you don't incur penalties/fees and so that your job doesn't have creditors calling them.   My story ended year 4 that my loan was in collection.  A higher up was reviewing my case and called me.  Told her the story and emailed her a picture of their cashed check.  She was completely embarrassed when she was trying to work out a plan for me and I am like - how about I come down tomorrow with the 7k.  But even though lender admitted fault this took 20+ calls to agencies to clear up my credit so I could buy a house.   So your goal should be:" "It's not a bad strategy. I'd rather owe money at 4% interest than at 6-7%. However, there is something to consider.  Consolidating debt into a new loan can backfire. When you have money borrowed at 7%, you want to get that paid off as quickly as possible. Once you have that converted to 4%, if you think, ""Now I can take my time paying off this debt,"" then you aren't really better off. In fact, if you take too long paying off the new loan, you might end up paying more interest than if you had kept the high interest loan and paid it as soon as possible. Don't lose your drive to get out of debt after you refinance.  As far as how the student loans affect your debt-to-income ratio, I'm not sure; however, if they do count (I think they do), your ratio will not really be going up by taking out the new loan, since you are using the money to pay other debt. Make sure the new lender knows this, so they take that into consideration when making their decision.  Overall, I like your strategy: pay off what you can right away (the car loan and the highest interest student loans) and reduce the interest on the rest. Just make sure that you continue to pay down that debt as quick as you can." Regardless. It’s a guaranteed 5.x%. Reducing student loans also allows you other benefits; i.e. reduces your credit risk allowing you to pull out more credit at a cheaper rate in the future etc. Unless you strongly believe in current bull market continuing.. (there is a high overvaluation from market principles atm and it has been the longest rise in history), you should go for the guaranteed change. Additionally, if your loan is pegged to variable interest rates such as the fed funds rate, be cognizant that the fed will probably continue rising rates for the near future of good times continue, meaning your rates will go up while markets go down. Long story short, would recommend paying down debt unless you’re quite confident in your skills.  Edit: quick note that if you can do both, this is the best option. "If I had to guess (since you provided little information about your loan repayment), I'd guess that you're on the ""Extended"" repayment plan for your $72k loan, and the ""Standard"" plan for your $30k loan. In general, there are 4 main kinds of student loan repayment plans This holds true for federal loans (Direct/Stafford/PLUS). Private loans may not have all of these options, or they may have more. Running your numbers, I get 300 payments of $500/mo at 6.8% interest for a $72,000 loan, and 120 payments of $345/mo at 6.8% interest for a $30,000 loan. Now, to address your issue of interest vs principal, you should notice that each month you pay, the interest payment is slightly lower, and the principal slightly higher. And if you make bi-weekly payments, you'll see that change a LITTLE bit more quickly (slightly smaller balance accruing interest for 14 days of the month) and you'll also pay slightly less over time." "Like everybody else I'm picking up on the school loans - you're mother isn't exactly earning a massive amount of money given her cost of living, why is she taking out student loans that benefit you and your sister? I'm not trying to be offensive but it's fairly obvious that she can't afford it. As a first step I think you should at least take over paying your own student loans (you sound like you're out of college already and if you have $8k to ""lend"" to your mother you probably have enough money to pay the student loans that benefited you, after all) or as someone else also recommended, assume your loans. As to your sister, maybe it's time for her to get (another) job to pay for the tuition so her mother doesn't have to go further into debt. Again, I'm not trying to be mean here but your mother is digging herself deeper and deeper into a hole because of the tuition. Something's gotta give, and delivering pizza or getting a paper round is a small sacrifice here. Next, the car - unless she has a managed to work herself out of some of this mess, I would consider getting a much cheaper car instead. This is provided that she isn't upside down on the loan. Personally I wouldn't trade in a vehicle with an upside down loan, if anything that's another bad financial decision. Assuming that she isn't upside down on the loan and has some equity in the car, I would seriously consider selling the car and using the equity to buy something small and cheap. That should also hopefully reduce the cost of gas and maybe insurance somewhat. I think these points are probably the quickest steps that can be taken towards recovering this situation. You already mentioned the longer term plans like downsizing the apartment, but TBH I'm not sure that this is really necessary. The big elephant in the room are the college costs and removing those from the equation would give her a serious amount of breathing room." Is there anything here I should be deathly concerned about? A concern I see is the variable rate loans. Do you understand the maximum rate they can get to? At this time those rates are low, but if you are going to put funds against the highest rate loan, make sure the order doesn't change without you noticing it. What is a good mode of attack here?  The best mode of attack is to pay off the one with the highest rate first by paying more than the minimum. When that is done roll over the money you were paying for that loan to the next highest. Note if a loan balance get to be very low, you can put extra funds against this low balance loan to be done with it. Investigate loan forgiveness programs. The federal government has loan forgiveness programs for certain job positions, if you work for them for a number of years. Some employers also have these programs.  What are the payoff dates for the other loans? My inexact calculations put a bunch in about 2020 but some as late as 2030. You may need to talk to your lender. They might have a calculator on their website.  Why do my Citi loans have a higher balance than the original payoff amounts? Some loans are subsidized by the federal government. This covers the interest while the student is still in school. Non-subsidized federal loans and private loans don't have this feature, so their balance can grow while the student is in school. Up to some degree, a higher or lower interest rate means a bit less or a bit more money in your pocket. If the interest rate gets too high, you may be in trouble. So you first look at the situation and ask yourself: At what interest rate would I be in trouble?  If this is a $20,000 student loan, then even a very high rate wouldn't be trouble. It would be unfortunate and unpleasant, but not fatal. For a $800,000 mortgage, that's different. Each percent more is $8,000 a year. Going from 3% to 10% would change the interest from $24,000 to $80,000 a year, which would be fatal for many people.  In a situation where you can afford increasing variable payments without problems you can go for it. If your variable rate would vary over time between 4% and 6% you would still be even. In that situation, go for variable (taking into account where you think interest rates will go in the future). For a mortgage, the security would likely be more important. (On the other hand, if your dad is a multi-millionaire who would help you out, then that big rate increase wouldn't be fatal, and you could go for a variable rate mortgage).  In some countries, you can cancel any loan contract when the interest rate is raised. So raising a variable mortgage interest rate would allow you to look elsewhere without early repayment penalties. Check out if that is the case for you. "I had about $16k in student loans. I defaulted on the loans, and they got  > passed to a collection type agency (OSCEOLA).  These guys are as legitimate as a collection agency can be. One thing that I feel is very sketchy is when they were verifying my identity they said ""Does your Social Security Number end in ####. Is your Birthday Month/Day/Year.""  That is not sketchy. It would be sketchy for a caller to ask you to give that information; that's a common scheme for identity theft. OSCEOLA are following the rules on this one. My mom suggested I should consider applying for bankruptcy Won't help. Student loans can't be discharged in bankruptcy. You have the bankruptcy ""reform"" act passed during the Bush 43 regime for that. The loan itself is from school. What school? Contact them and ask for help. They may have washed their hands of your case when they turned over your file to OSCEOLA. Then again, they may not. It's worth finding out.   Also, name and shame the school. Future applicants should be warned that they will do this.  What can I do to aid in my negotiations with this company? Don't negotiate on the phone. You've discovered that they won't honor such negotiations. Ask for written communications sent by postal mail. Keep copies of everything, including both sides of the canceled checks you use to make payments (during the six months and in the future). Keep making the payments you agreed to in the conversation six months ago. Do not, EVER, ignore a letter from them. Do not, EVER, skip going to court if they send you a summons to appear. They count on people doing this. They can get a default judgement if you don't show up. Then you're well and truly screwed. What do you want? You want the $4K fee removed. If you want something else, figure out  what it is. Here's what to do: Write them a polite letter explaining what you said here. Recount the conversation you had with their telephone agent where they said they would remove the $4K fee if you made payments.  Recount the later conversation. If possible give the dates of both conversations and the names of the both agents.   Explain the situation completely. Don't assume the recipient of your letter knows anything about your case. Include evidence that you made payments as agreed during the six months. If you were late or something, don't withhold that.  Ask them to remove the extra $4K from your account, and ask for whatever else you want. Send the letter to them with a return receipt requested, or even registered mail. That will prevent them from claiming they didn't get it. And it will show them you're serious. Write a cover letter admitting your default, saying you relied on their negotiation to set things straight, and saying you're dismayed they aren't sticking to their word. The cover letter should ask for help sorting this out. Send copies of the letter with the cover letter to: Be sure to mark your letter to OSCEOLA ""cc"" all these folks, so they know you are asking for help. It can't hurt to call your congressional representative's office and ask to whom you should send the letter, and then address it by name. This is called Constituent Service, and they take pride in it. If you send this letter with copies you're letting them know you intend to fight.  The collection agency may decide it's not worth the fight to get the $4K and decide to let it go.   Again, if they call to pressure you, say you'd rather communicate in writing, and that they are not to call you by telephone. Then hang up.  Should I hire a lawyer?  Yes, but only if you get a court summons or if you don't get anywhere with this. You can give the lawyer all this paperwork I've suggested here, and it will help her come up to speed on your case. This is the kind of stuff the lawyer would do for you at well over $100 per hour. Is bankruptcy really an option Certainly not, unfortunately. Never forget that student lenders and their collection agencies are dangerous and clever predators. You are their lawful prey. They look at you, lick their chops, and think, ""food."" Watch John Oliver's takedown of that industry.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxUAntt1z2c Good luck and stay safe."