Online tutorials for calculating DCF (Discounted Cash Flow)?
"Here's a link to an online calculator employing the Discounted Cash Flow method:  Discounted Cash Flows Calculator.  Description: This calculator finds the fair value   of a stock investment the   theoretically correct way, as the   present value of future earnings. You   can find company earnings via the box   below.   [...] They also provide a link to the following relevant article:  Investment Valuation: A Little Theory.  Excerpt: A company is valuable to stockholders   for the same reason that a bond is   valuable to bondholders: both are   expected to generate cash for years   into the future. Company profits are   more volatile than bond coupons, but   as an investor your task is the same   in both cases: make a reasonable   prediction about future earnings, and   then ""discount"" them by calculating   how much they are worth today. (And   then you don't buy unless you can get   a purchase price that's less than the   sum of these present values, to make   sure ownership will be worth the   headache.)   [...]" "Check out Professor Damodaran's website: http://pages.stern.nyu.edu/~adamodar/ . Tons of good stuff there to get you started. If you want more depth, he's written what is widely considered the bible on the subject of valuation: ""Investment Valuation"". DCF is very well suited to stock analysis. One doesn't need to know, or forecast the future stock price to use it. In fact, it's the opposite. Business fundamentals are forecasted to estimate the sum total of future cash flows from the company, discounted back to the present. Divide that by shares outstanding, and you have the value of the stock. The key is to remember that DCF calculations are very sensitive to inputs. Be conservative in your estimates of future revenue growth, earnings margins, and capital investment. I usually develop three forecasts: pessimistic, neutral, optimistic. This delivers a range of value instead of a false-precision single number. This may seem odd: I find the DCF invaluable, but for the process, not so much the result. The input sensitivity requires careful work, and while a range of value is useful, the real benefit comes from being required to answer the questions to build the forecast. It provides a framework to analyze a business. You're just trying to properly fill in the boxes, estimate the unguessable. To do so, you pore through the financials. Skimming, reading with a purpose. In the end you come away with a fairly deep understanding of the business, how they make money, why they'll continue to make money, etc." what do you mean exactly?  Do you have a future target price and projected future dividend payments and you want the present value (time discounted price) of those? Edit: The DCF formula is difficult to use for stocks because the future price is unknown.  It is more applicable to fixed-income instruments like coupon bonds.  You could use it but you need to predict / speculate a future price for the stock. You are better off using the standard stock analysis stuff: Learn Stock Basics - How To Read A Stock Table/Quote The P/E ratio and the Dividend yield are the two most important.  The good P/E ratio for a mature company would be around 20.  For smaller and growing companies, a higher P/E ratio is acceptable.  The dividend yield is important because it tells you how much your shares grow even if the stock price stays unchanged for the year. HTH
&gt; 1)What is the formula to turn the annualized rate into a monthly rate?  What do you *think* it is?   &gt; 2)What is the formula to find out the NPV of monthly cash flows?  Same one as usual. Remember, value can only be summed if it's *at the same point in time.*   &gt; For example, if I get $1000, $2000, and $3000 in months 1, 2, and 3, how do I calculate how much each of those are equal to as a present value if the annual discount rate is 8%?  Think it through. Cap rate includes any interest on the mortgage and not the repayments of the mortgage. Cap rate represents the net income which is the gross rent minus all costs, including the interest on the loan. Mortgage repayments form part of your cash flow calculations not your return calculations. ROI is a calculation which works out your net income over the initial investment you made, which is you downpayment plus costs and not the value of the property. You're saying that medallions aren't profitable but that they're selling for $1 Million because they're *liquid*!? OK you might need to go read about discounted cash flows or something because you do not know what drives the value of a business  Because that's what Medallions are - they aren't a cost of doing business, they're the price of buying a business. Which is high because the business is profitable  If you're not seeing the profits then you have the city to blame for that: they're going to the medallion owners It depends. If cost of tuition + income forgone during studying years is less than your lifelong discounted incremental cash flows you receive thanks to your education, then it is not worth it.  If your studies are, say, 150K, and you forego another 60K/y during 4 years of university, you will need to make roughly 39K ***more*** per year until you retire than you otherwise would have, or more, for your degree to be worth it. I don't see that as very realistic scenario for 90% of the people who get degrees.   Obviously cheaper/more expensive degrees, different discount rate assumptions, and different salaries before/during/after university are different from person to person. That's why everyone has to make their own calculation and then decide whether or not to make such a risky investment in themselves. If you're taking a Terminal DCF, you shouldn't be using 1-year risk free rates, so the 2.77% is probably much more accurate. That being said, we're in a historically low-rate environment, so even the 2.77% is probably a bit low.   Here's another data point that puts the WACC at 8%:  [http://www.wikiwealth.com/wacc-analysis:mcd](http://www.wikiwealth.com/wacc-analysis:mcd) Profit after tax can have multiple interpretations, but a common one is the EPS (Earnings Per Share).  This is frequently reported as a TTM number (Trailing Twelve Months), or in the UK as a fiscal year number.  Coincidentally, it is relatively easy to find the total amount of dividends paid out in that same time frame. That means calculating div cover is as simple as:  EPS divided by total dividend.  (EPS / Div). It's relatively easy to build a Google Docs spreadsheet that pulls both values from the cloud using the GOOGLEFINANCE() function.  I suspect the same is true of most spreadsheet apps.  With a proper setup, you can just fill down along a column of tickers to get the div cover for a number of companies at once. The MIRR formula uses the finance rate to discount negative cash flows, but since the only negative cash flow in the example in in the current period, there's nothing to discount.  It's meant to solve problems with IRR like when there are both positive and negative cash flows, which can result in multiple answers for IRR.  The example they give isn't a good one for MIRR because it's a simple spend now, earn later scenario, which IRR is perfectly fine for. If you add a negative cashflow somewhere after the first one you'll see the answer change with difference financing rates. The Finance functions in spreadsheet software will calculate this for you.  The basic functions are for Rate, Payment, PV (present value), FV (Future value), and NPER, the number of periods.  The single calculation faces a couple issues, dealing with inflation, and with a changing deposit. If you plan to save for 30 years, and today are saving $500/mo, for example, in ten years I hope the deposits have risen as well. I suggest you use a spreadsheet, a full sheet, to let you adjust for this.  Last, there's a strange effect that happens. Precision without accuracy. See the results for 30-40 years of compounding today's deposit given a return of 6%, 7%, up to 10% or so. Your forecast will be as weak as the variable with the greatest range. And there's more than one, return, inflation, percent you'll increase deposits, all unknown, and really unknowable.  The best advice I can offer is to save till it hurts, plan for the return to be at the lower end of the range, and every so often, re-evaluate where you stand. Better to turn 40, and see you are on track to retire early, than to plan on too high a return, and at 60 realize you missed it, badly.  As far as the spreadsheet goes, this is for the Google Sheets -  Type this into a cell =nper(0.01,-100,0,1000,0) It represents 1% interest per month, a payment (deposit) of $100, a starting value of $0, a goal of $1000, and interest added at month end. For whatever reason, a starting balance must be entered as a negative number, for example - =nper(0.01,-100,-500,1000,0) Will return 4.675, the number of months to get you from $500 to $1000 with a $100/mo deposit and 1%/mo return. Someone smarter than I (Chris Degnen comes to mind) can explain why the starting balance needs to be entered this way. But it does show the correct result. As confirmed by my TI BA-35 financial calculator, which doesn't need $500 to be negative.