What does “Settling your Debt” entail, and how does it compare to other options?
If you are struggling with debt and cannot realistically pay your debts off with your current level of income, these businesses offer, for a fee, to negotiate with your debt providers a sum that you can realistically afford to pay. The debt providers will consider the offer because they would rather get some money back rather than nothing (as these are usually unsecured loans). For you it can be a better deal than going bankrupt or trying to struggle endlessly to pay off something you can't afford to pay off. Note, that even though you won't be bankrupt, you will be treated (by lenders) very similar to being bankrupt. In other words, it will be very hard for you to get new loans in the near future. "Basically, these guys break all your eggs then try to make an omelet.  Your lender(s) must really believe that you have no ability to pay before they'll settle, which generally entails not paying them until your creditworthiness is in the tank.  Bankruptcy laws exist for a reason.  If your credit is in the tank, you can't make your payments and you're shopping to settle your debts, it's not likely a bankruptcy would worsen your situation; in fact, quite the opposite.  But, people have hugely negative feelings toward bankruptcy and don't want to be called a ""deadbeat"", these services prey on those people." "These agencies consolidate your debt and make it an easy monthly instalment for you. They also try to negotiate with credit cards. They do so for a fee. Other option is to not pay the debt. During this time , expect credit cards to keep sending you bills and reminders and ways to contact you. Once it is not paid for a significant amount of time ( 18 months ) , the lender will ""sell"" your debt to a collection agency. You will start getting bills from collection agencies. Collection agencies can settle for up to 40 % of the actual debt. So if you had 5 credit cards , you would have 5 different collection agencies trying to get in touch with you. You can call them and tell them that you cannot pay the full amount. They will offer you settlements which you can accept or decline. The longer the unpaid debt , the more the discount they will offer. One very important thing to remember is that the unpaid amount will be sent to you on a 1099-c form . This means you have to recognize this as income. It is applicable to the year when the debt is settled. In a nut shell , you owe 120,000. You don't pay. Credit cards keeps calling you. You don't pay. After 12-18 months , they handover your debt to collection agencies. Collection agencies will try to get in touch with you. Send you lawsuit letters. You call and settle for say 50,000. You pay off 50,000 in 2016. Your debt is settled. But wait you will get 1099-C forms from different agencies totaling 70,000 ( unpaid debt ). You will have to declare that as income and you will owe tax on that. Assuming say 30 % tax you will have to pay up 21,000 as tax to IRS assuming no other income for simplicity. SO what you did was pay up 50 + 21 = 71,000 and settled the debt of 120,000. Your credit score will be much better than if you never paid at all."
It says expense ratio of 0.14%. What does it mean? Essentially it means that they will take 0.14% of your money, regardless of the performance. This measures how much money the fund spends out of its assets on the regular management expenses. How much taxes will I be subject to This depends on your personal situation, not much to do with the fund (though investment/rebalancing policies may affect the taxable distributions). If you hold it in your IRA - there will be no taxes at all. However, some funds do have measures of non-taxable distributions vs dividends vs. capital gains. Not all the funds do that, and these are very rough estimates anyway. What is considered to be a reasonable expense ratio? That depends greatly on the investment policy. For passive index funds, 0.05-0.5% is a reasonable range, while for actively managed funds it can go up as much as 2% and higher. You need to compare to other funds with similar investment policies to see where your fund stands. "The short answer to all of this is that it depends on the loan and on the collections agency. It's an ""interesting"" time to be a collections agency right now. On the one hand, people are defaulting on debts, and those creditors want to be paid and are beating down the agencies' doors. On the other hand, if you can't pay you can't pay, and the threat of collections action is not much of a motivation when you're already 90 days out, and so collections agencies are having to consult crystal balls and tea leaves to try to determine which debts they're likely to collect if they buy. Many collections agencies have begun subscribing to the ""you catch more flies with honey than vinegar"" philosophy; ""we know it may be very difficult for you right now, so we'll make you a deal to settle the debt for 80% of face value, and you'll never hear from us again"". Other agencies continue to live by the threat model; ""we're heartless and cruel and we don't care that it's tough; we own you and you will pay us everything we ask for or we will make your life hell every way we can"".  There are advantages, and a certain synergy, to both approaches. You really do get more success by making a deal, so the agency that is willing to work with the debtor and offer them a good deal is going to be more likely to collect. However, that quickly becomes an incentive to not pay; ""Yeah, they sent me this outrageous bill for my sprained ankle, so I just ignored it and let 'em sweat, and ended up paying half what they billed me"". Sprinkle in just a few cases of ""Yeah, I couldn't pay my cell phone bill so I just let them cut it off, but the collections agency started calling and mailing me every day and I had to pay twice what I owed in the first place to make it stop"", which filters through the collective psyche of the masses, and all of a sudden if and when they do offer a deal on a debt you fell behind on, you jump on it. Now, to the question at the end of your post. It's always better for your credit to pay than to not pay. An open collections account on your credit score will always be a bigger ding than a closed one. But, open or closed, that collections activity remains part of your history unless the collections agency agrees to retract it. Even then, you may have to go around to the big three credit bureaus and get the account removed, using documentation which the agency must provide stating something to the effect of ""we agree that this never happened"". If the agency refuses to remove this black mark, how black it will be depends on the terms by which the account was settled. The reporting agencies will be told the face value of the debt that was sent to collections, and they will be told the amount paid to settle it. If the debt was settled for face value, that tells people reading your report that, well, you were very late and only paid under duress, but at least you did make good on the debt in full. If you settle for less than the face value, that says something different entirely; not only could you not pay the original creditor, you had to negotiate to reduce the amount to pay the debt collector. That makes extending you credit very risky; not only are you a proven risk for being late to pay, not only are you a proven risk for them having to write off the debt, but if and when they sell it to a collections agency, the agency will see that a past debt was settled for less than face value and assume they'll get the same treatment, and so will offer less to buy the debt. Both of those cases are still better than an open collection; that says to someone considering loaning you money that not only will you default, not only will they have to write it off, not only will the collections agency make less profit... the collections agency is unlikely to see ANYTHING from this bad debt and may not even agree to buy it." http://www.bills.com/private-student-loan-settlement/ Here is a page that seems to have specific advice on the matter.  This site speculates that even though the private loan industry does not have to settle (and the private student loans, like federal loans cannot be discharged with a bankruptcy) they sometimes will anyway. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/08/14/private-student-loans-bankruptcy-law_n_1753462.html ...   If she could file bankruptcy to erase the private student loan debt   she owes to Sallie Mae, she would. But because of a 2005 reform law,   private student loans cannot be discharged in bankruptcy, except in   extremely rare cases.  ... The advice that works for you is the same advice with negotiating any debt.  Get it in writing that the amount will constitute payment in full.  Be sure that the written agreement makes some mention of how they will report it on your credit.  (You are going to take a credit hit if you settle, but time will heal that.) The best plan is to pay, but if you can't, and you can honestly prove you can't, the debt collection company would be foolish to not take a settlement.  They can wait around forever and sue you, add penalties and fees, but if you cannot pay, you cannot pay.   I am going to guess because you are dealing with a debt collector, they are less vested in collecting the full amount.  So get that settlement offer in writing.  And don't be too much of a hard core negotiator.  The power is all on their side.  You will likely have to appeal to the greed of the collection company to succeed.  Hope they would rather have $.50 today than $1.25 tomorrow. Wikipedia has a nice definition of financial literacy (emphasis below is mine): [...] refers to an   individual's ability to make informed   judgments and effective decisions   about the use and management of their   money. Raising interest in personal   finance is now a focus of state-run   programs in countries including   Australia, Japan, the United States   and the UK. [...]  As for how you can become financially literate, here are some suggestions: Learn about how basic financial products works: bank accounts, mortgages, credit cards, investment accounts, insurance (home, car, life, disability, medical.) Free printed & online materials should be available from your existing financial service providers to help you with your existing products.  In particular, learn about the fees, interest, or other charges you may incur with these products.  Becoming fee-aware is a step towards financial literacy, since financially literate people compare costs.  Seek out additional information on each type of product from unbiased sources (i.e. sources not trying to sell you something.) Get out of debt and stay out of debt. This may take a while. Focus on your highest-interest loans first. Learn the difference between good debt and bad debt.   Learn about compound interest.  Once you understand compound interest, you'll understand why being in debt is bad for your financial well-being. If you aren't already saving money for retirement, start now.  Investigate whether your employer offers an advantageous matched 401(k) plan (or group RRSP/DC plan for Canadians) or a pension plan.  If your employer offers a good plan, sign up.  If you get to choose your own investments, keep it simple and favor low-cost balanced index funds until you understand the different types of investments.  Read the material provided by the plan sponsor, try online tools provided, and seek out additional information from unbiased sources. If your employer doesn't offer an advantageous retirement plan, open an individual retirement account or IRA (or personal RRSP for Canadians.)  If your employer does offer a plan, you can set one of these up to save even more.  You could start with access to a family of low-cost mutual funds (examples: Vanguard for Americans, or TD eFunds for Canadians) or earn advanced credit by learning about discount brokers and self-directed accounts. Understand how income taxes and other taxes work.  If you have an accountant prepare your taxes, ask questions.  If you prepare your taxes yourself, understand what you're doing and don't file blind.  Seek help if necessary.  There are many good books on how income tax works.  Software packages that help you self-file often have online help worth reading – read it. Learn about life insurance, medical insurance, disability insurance, wills, living wills & powers of attorney, and estate planning.  Death and illness can derail your family's finances.  Learn how these things can help. Seek out and read key books on personal finance topics.  e.g. Your Money Or Your Life, Why Smart People Make Big Money Mistakes, The Four Pillars of Investing, The Random Walk Guide to Investing, and many more. Seek out and read good personal finance blogs.  There's a wealth of information available for free on the Internet, but do check facts and assumptions. Here are some suggested blogs for American readers and some suggested blogs for Canadian readers. Subscribe to a personal finance periodical and read it.  Good ones to start with are Kiplinger's Personal Finance Magazine in the U.S. and MoneySense Magazine in Canada.  The business section in your local newspaper may sometimes have personal finance articles worth reading, too. Shameless plug: Ask more questions on this site. The Personal Finance & Money Stack Exchange is here to help you learn about money & finance, so you can make better financial decisions.  We're all here to learn and help others learn about money. Keep learning! Also - the more credit facilities you have, the risikier you get. Say Company A lends you $8.000 for a down-payment - let's say you then go out and max out your other 100k facilities - you now have debt of 108k. What guarantee does the Company A have of repayment? Fewer credit facilities = better chance of getting a new loan. "Debt increases your exposure to risk.  What happens if you lose your job, or a major expense comes up and you have to make a hard decision about skipping a loan payment?  Being debt free means you aren't paying money to the bank in interest, and that's money that can go into your pocket. Debt can be a useful tool, however.  It's all about what you do with the money you borrow.  Will you be able to get something back that is worth more than the interest of the loan? A good example is your education.  How much more money will you make with a college degree?  Is it more than you will be paying in interest over the life of the loan?  Then it was probably worth it. Instead of paying down your loans, can you invest that money into something with a better rate of rate of return than the interest rate of the loan?  For example, why pay off your 3% student loan if you can invest in a stock with a 6% return?  The money goes to better use if it is invested.  (Note that most investments count as taxable income, so you have to factor taxes into your effective rate of return.) The caveat to this is that most investments have at least some risk associated with them.  (Stocks don't always go up.)  You have to weigh this when deciding to invest vs pay down debts.  Paying down the debt is more of a ""sure thing"". Another thing to consider: If you have a long-term loan (several years), paying extra principal on a loan early on can turn into a huge savings over the life of the loan, due to power of compound interest.  Extra payments on a mortgage or student loan can be a wise move.  Just make sure you are paying down the principal, not the interest!  (And check for early repayment penalties.)" I agree with you that you need to consolidate this debt using a loan. It may be hard to find a bank or credit organization that will give you an unsecured personal loan for that much money.  I know of one, called Lending Club (Disclaimer - I'm an investor on this platform. Not trying to advertise, it's just the only place I know of off the top of my head) that facilitates loans like this, but instead of a bank financing the loan, the loan is split up accross hundreds of investors who each contribute a small amount (such as $25). They have rates anywhere between 5-30%, based on your credit profile(s), and I believe they have some loan amounts that go up to the area that you're discussing.  Regarding buying the house - The best thing you can do when trying to buy a house is to save up a 20% downpayment, if at all possible. Below this amount, you may be asked to pay for 'PMI' - Private Mortgage Insurance. This is a charge that doesn't go away for quite a while (until you've paid them 20% of the appraised value of the home), where you pay a premium because you didn't have the 20% downpayment for the house.  I would suggest you try to eliminate your credit card debt as soon as possible, and would recommend the same for your father. Getting your utilization down and reconsolidating the large debts with a loan will help to reduce interest charges and get you a reasonable, fixed payment.  Whether you decide to pay off your own balances using your savings account is up to you; if it were me, personally, I'd do so immediately rather than trying to pay it off over time. But if you lose money to taxes by withdrawing the money from your 'tax free savings account', it may not be a beneficial situation.  Treat debt, especially credit card debt, like an emergency at all times, and you'll find yourself in a better place as a result.  Credit card debt and balances are and should be temporary, and their rates and fees are structured that way. If, for any reason, you expect that a credit card's balance will remain for an extended period of time, you may want to consider whether it would be advantageous for you to consolidate the debt into a loan, instead. This is pretty simple in theory, harder to do in practice. You will be surprised how quickly the debt will disappear.  Doing these things will work, I know from experience.