Should I use a credit repair agency?
Repairing your credit takes time. Companies that offer to do it for you (for money) generally succeed mostly at getting money from you. Nonprofit agencies will help you with advice and encouragement and will not want money from you.  They may be able to help you apply for a consolidation loan, but to be honest that is rarely the best first step. Over time, you need to The last step may happen months or years after the first two. "My sister had a similar problem and went to an actual lawyer, not a  ""credit repair agency"".  The lawyers settled her debt for a lot less than she owed, and she  also got a bonus: one of the creditors called her repeatedly, even  after her lawyers had told them not to.  The lawyers ended up getting her an extra $40,000. Combined with the  debt settlement, she actually came out ahead.  Of course, her credit score went down, but it recovered in a couple of  years." "Don't use a ""credit repair"" agency. They are scams. One of the myriad of ways in which they work is by setting you up with a bogus loan, which they will dutifully report you as paying on time. They'll pretend to be a used car dealer or some other credit-based merchant. For a time, this will actually work. This is called ""false reporting."" The problem is, the data clearinghouses are not stupid and eventually realize some hole-in-the-wall ""car dealer"" with no cars on the lot (yes, they do physical inspections as part of the credentialing process, just sometimes they're a little slow about it) is reporting trade lines worth millions of dollars per year. It's a major problem in the industry. But eventually that business loses its fraudulent reporting ability, those trade lines get revoked, and your account gets flagged for a fraud investigation. The repair agency has your money, and you still don't have good credit. Bad news if this all goes down while you're trying to close on a house. You're better off trying to settle your debts (usually for 50%) or declaring bankruptcy altogether. The latter isn't so bad if you're in a stable home, because you won't be able to get an apartment for a while, credit cards or a good deal on auto financing.  ED: I just saw what one agency was charging, and can tell you declaring bankruptcy costs only a few hundred dollars more than the repair agency and is 100% guaranteed to get you predictable results as long as you name all your debts up front and aren't getting reamed by student loans. And considering you can't stomach creditors-- well guess what, now you'll have a lawyer to deal with them for you. Anything you accomplish through an agency will eventually be reversed because it's fraudulent. But through bankruptcy, your credit will start improving within two years, the tradeoff being that you won't be able to get a mortgage (at all) or apartment (easily) during that time-- so find a place to hunker down for a few years before you declare." I've kind of been there myself.  I stretched my finances for the deposit on a house, and lived off my credit card for a few months to build up what I was short on the deposit.  Add some unexpected car repairs, and I ended up with £10k on the card.  The problem I had then was that interest on the card ran at around 20%, and although I could meet the interest payments I couldn't clear the £10k. I simply went and talked to my bank.  In the UK there are some clear rules about banks giving customers a chance to restructure their debts.  That's the BANK doing it, not some shady loan-shark.  We went through my finances and established that in principle it was repayable.  So I got a 2-year unsecured loan at around 5%, cleared the card, and spent the next 2 years paying off a loan that I could afford.  My credit score is still aces. Forget the loan-sharks.  Talk to your bank.  If they're crap, talk to another bank.  If no bank is going to help you, consider bankrupcy as per advice above.  Debt restructuring companies are ALWAYS a con, no exceptions. "So you are in IT, that is great news because you can earn a fabulous income.  The part time is not great, but you can use this to your advantage.  You can get another job or three to boost your income in the short term.  In the long term  you should be able to find a better paying job fairly easily.   There is one way to never deal with creditors again:  never borrow money again.  Its pretty damn simple and from the suggestions of your post you don't seem to be very good at handling credit.  This would make you fairly normal.  78% of  US households don't have $1000 saved.  How are they going to handle a brake job/broken dryer/emergency room visit?  Those things happen. Cut your lifestyle to nothing, earn money and save it.  Say you have 2000 saved up.  Then a creditor calls saying you owe 5K.  Tell me you are willing to settle for the 2K you have saved.  If they don't, hang up.  If they are willing getting it writing and pay by a method that insulates you from further charges.   Boom one out of the way and keep going.  You will be 1099'd for some income, but it is a easy way to ""earn"" extra money.   This will all work if you commit yourself to never again borrowing money." "Here's what my wife and I did. First, we stopped using credit cards and got rid of all other expenses that we absolutely didn't need.  A few examples: cable TV, home phone, high end internet - all shut off.  We changed our cell phone plan to a cheap one and stopped going out to restaurants or bars.  We also got rid of the cars that had payments on them and replaced them with ones we paid cash for.  Probably the most painful thing for me was selling a 2 year old 'vette and replacing it with a 5 year old random 4 door.   Some people might tell you don't do this because older cars need repairs.  Fact is, nearly all cars are going to need repairs.  It's just a matter of whether you are also making payments on it when they need them and if you can discipline yourself enough to save up a bit to cover those. After doing all this the only payments we had to make were for the house (plus electric/gas/water) and the debt we had accumulated.  I'd say that if you have the option to move back into your parent's house then do it.  Yes, it will suck for a while but you'll be able to pay everything off so much faster.  Just make sure to help around the house. Ignore the guys saying that this tanks your score and will make getting a house difficult.  Although they are right that it will drop your score the fact is that you aren't in any position to make large purchases anyway and won't be for quite some time, so it really doesn't matter.  Your number one goal is to dig yourself out of this hole, not engage in activity that will keep you in it. Next, if you are only working part time then you need to do one of two things.  Either get a full time job or go find a second part time one.  The preference is obviously on the first, which you should be able to do in your spare time.  If, for some reason, you don't have the tech skills necessary to do this then go find any part time job you can.   It took us about 3 years to finally pay everything (except the house) off - we owed a lot.  During that time everything we bought was paid for in cash with the vast majority of our money going to pay off those accounts. Once the final account was paid off, I did go ahead and get a credit card.  I made very minor purchases on it - mostly just gas - and paid it off a few days before it was due each month.  Every 4 months they increased my limit.   After around 18 months of using that one card my credit score was back in the 700+ range and with no debt other than the mortgage. *note: I echo what others have said about ""Credit Repair"" companies.  Anything they can do, you can too.  It's a matter of cutting costs, living within your means and paying the bills.  If the interest rates are killing you, then try to get a consolidation loan.  If you can't do that then negotiate settlements with them, just get everything in writing prior to making a payment on it if you go this route.  BTW, make sure you actually can't pay them before attempting to settle." "I think you already have a lot of good ideas here. I also don't agree with going with a company to ""repair"" your credit. They don't have any secret method on how to do so anyway, it takes time and hard work.  Cut out things that you are more luxury items. Cable for me is a must (Haha) but I can go without having HBO, showtime, etc. Make a list of the things you currently pay for and you will be able to see exactly what you can't ""live without"" and what you can live without.  The good thing nowadays there's so many side gig options available! Check out this article here: https://www.learnvest.com/2017/06/this-is-how-much-you-could-make-through-airbnb-uber-and-7-other-popular-side-gigs. This goes into detail on how much you can make on these sites on a monthly average. Since you're in IT, you can use fiverr! I've used fiverr a lot of projects, you create your own deadlines, work schedule, you accept the jobs you want, similar to your UBer and Lyft but Fiverr has a lot of contractors with a variety of skills specifically in IT, lots of demand for web developers not sure what IT field you're in.  Hope this helps! Good luck!"
"This is a well worn path and not a bad idea.  There are quite a few pitfalls but there are a lot of resources to learn for other people's mistakes. Having a plan and doing your research should help you avoid most of them.  Here is some general advice to help get you started on the right foot.  Know the market you are investing in.  The city should have more than one major employer. The population should be rising and hopefully there are other positive economic indicators.  Check the city's and state's chamber of commerce for useful information.  You do not want to be stuck holding a bunch of upside down property in Detroit.   Accurately calculate expenses.  Set aside money for repairs.  budget 5% of the rent or 100 a month for repairs if no repairs happen that money goes into the repair fund for the future.  Set aside money for capital expenditures if the roof has a 10 years of life left in 10 years you better be ready to replace it same with any major appliances. Your area should have a baseline vacancy rate 5-8% in my area. That says out of a year your property will be vacant for around 6% of the year or 21 days for turnover. You should build that cushion into the budget as well setting aside a portion of the rent to cover that lean period. Some property management will offer ""eviction insurance"" which is basically them enforcing that savings.  Financing maybe difficult a lot of banks like to see 25% down payments on investments. You will also face higher interest rates for investment properties. Banks generally also like to see enough money to cover 6 months worth of expenses in your account for all property.  Some banks will not give financing for investment property to someone without 1-2 years of landlord experience. All in all finding money will be hard when you gets started and your terms may be less than ideal.  (hopefully make around 3 - 5k a year in profit)  If that includes loan pay-down and is not just cash-flow you are probably in the right ballpark.  I can find $100-$200 dollars cash-flow a month on single family home in my area. Once loan pay-down is included your numbers are close.  It sounds like you have a good attitude and a good plan.  A book that I really enjoyed and I think may be useful is ""Start Small, Profit Big in Real Estate"" by Jay DeCima.  I think of it as required reading for do-it-yourself real estate investors. Good luck and happy investing" "**Credit rating agencies and the subprime crisis**  Credit rating agencies (CRAs) — firms which rate debt instruments/securities according to the debtor's ability to pay lenders back — played a significant role at various stages in the American subprime mortgage crisis of 2007-2008 that led to the Great Recession of 2008-2009. The new, complex securities of ""structured finance"" used to finance subprime mortgages could not have been sold without ratings by the ""Big Three"" rating agencies — Moody's Investors Service, Standard &amp; Poor's, and Fitch Ratings. A large section of the debt securities market — many money markets and pension funds — were restricted in their bylaws to holding only the safest securities — i.e securities the rating agencies designated ""triple-A"". The pools of debt the agencies gave their highest ratings to  included over three trillion dollars of loans to homebuyers with bad credit and undocumented incomes through 2007.  ***  ^[ [^PM](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=kittens_from_space) ^| [^Exclude ^me](https://reddit.com/message/compose?to=WikiTextBot&amp;message=Excludeme&amp;subject=Excludeme) ^| [^Exclude ^from ^subreddit](https://np.reddit.com/r/economy/about/banned) ^| [^FAQ ^/ ^Information](https://np.reddit.com/r/WikiTextBot/wiki/index) ^| [^Source](https://github.com/kittenswolf/WikiTextBot)   ^] ^Downvote ^to ^remove ^| ^v0.27" "I used to work for one of the three ratings agencies. Awhile ago. First: There are lots of different ratings. The bulk of ratings are for corporate debt and public finance. So senior debentures (fixed income) and General Obligations e.g. tax-free muni bonds, respectively. Ratings agencies are NOT paid by the investment banks, they are paid by the corporations  or city/ state that is issuing debt. The investment banks are the syndicate that pulls the transaction together and brings it to market.  For mortgage-backed securities, collateralized debt CDO-CLO's, all of which are fancy structured securitizations, well, that is a different matter! Those  transactions are the ones where there is an inappropriately close tie between the investment bankers and ratings agencies. And those were the ratings that blew out and caused problems.  Ratings agencies continued to do a decent job with what WAS their traditional business, corporate and municipal bond ratings, as far as I know.   What khajja said was 100% correct: S&amp;P's fees were paid by investors, the people who were purchasing the bonds, until about 50 years ago. Around the same time that McGraw-Hill purchased S&amp;P, in 1966, they departed from that model, and started charging the bond issuers for ratings. I don't know if that decision was driven by McGraw-Hill or not, though.  One more thing: Not all credit ratings agencies are paid by the issuers. One of the 10 NRSRO's (a designation given by the S.E.C.) is Egan-Jones. Their revenue comes from the investors, bond purchasers, not the companies issuing bonds, unlike the S&amp;P/ Fitch/ Moody's ""business model"". So there is an alternative, which I consider hopeful and reason not to totally despair.  EDIT: What xcrunna19 mentions is also totally accurate. The part about Nouriel Roubini (who is a professor at N.Y.U. or Columbia or such and a sensible though slightly high strung sort) is consistent with my impression. As for whether it would require government action to implement the changes advocated by Roubini, yes, I guess it would, but I don't know if the government would do that. It would be better if the credit ratings agencies would find their own way to a different, less conflicted payment-incentive model.  Keep in mind too that many of the provisions of Dodd-Frank have removed the existing regulatory requirements for credit ratings on bonds and other securities. This is the scary part though: There isn't anything to replace the credit ratings agencies, not at the moment, as far as I can tell! Eventually the government is supposed to come up with an alternative, but that hasn't happened yet. Which is better: Not requiring ratings at all, or the past situation of sometimes inflated ratings, which imparted a false sense of confidence? I don't know." "The Fair Credit Reporting Act specifies in some detail on pages 50-54 (as labeled in the footer, 55-59 as pages in pdf) the process that occurs when a consumer initiates a dispute.  The safe outcome for the reporting agency is to remove the information in dispute  from reports within 30 days if the reporting party does not certify the information is complete and accurate (with other statutory timelines for communication to the customer and the reporter).   If you initiate a dispute, then the agency is following the law by deleting the reported information, outside new input from the furnisher.  If this is unsatisfactory, you have the following statutory right within § 611. Procedure in case of disputed accuracy [15 U.S.C. § 1681i (d) Notification of deletion of disputed information. Following any deletion of   information which is found to be inaccurate or whose accuracy can no longer   be verified or any notation as to disputed information, the consumer   reporting agency shall, at the request of the consumer, furnish notification   that the item has been deleted or the statement, codification or summary   pursuant to subsection (b) or (c) of this section to any person specifically   designated by the consumer who has within two years prior thereto received   a consumer report for employment purposes, or within six months   prior thereto received a consumer report for any other purpose, which   contained the deleted or disputed information.  The section that binds furnishers of information (§ 623. Responsibilities of furnishers of information to consumer reporting agencies [15 U.S.C. § 1681s-2], starting on page 78 in the footer) places on them the following specific duties: (B) Reporting information after notice and confirmation of errors.   A person shall not furnish information relating to a consumer to   any consumer reporting agency if   (i) the person has been notified by the consumer, at the address   specified by the person for such notices, that specific   information is inaccurate; and   (ii) the information is, in fact, inaccurate. ... (2) Duty to correct and update information. A person who   (A) regularly and in the ordinary course of business furnishes information   to one or more consumer reporting agencies about the   person’s transactions or experiences with any consumer; and   (B) has furnished to a consumer reporting agency information   that the person determines is not complete or accurate, shall   promptly notify the consumer reporting agency of that determination   and provide to the agency any corrections to that information,   or any additional information, that is necessary to make   the information provided by the person to the agency complete   and accurate, and shall not thereafter furnish to the agency any   of the information that remains not complete or accurate. So there you have it: they have to stop reporting inaccurate information, and ""promptly"" notify the credit agency once they've determined what is incomplete or inaccurate. I note no specific statutory timeline for this investigation." That is an opinion.  I don't think so.  Here are some differences: If you use credit responsibly and take the time to make sure the reporting agencies are being accurate, a good report can benefit you.  So that isn't like a criminal record. What is also important to know is that in the United States, a credit report is about you, not for you.  You are the product being sold.  This is, in my opinion, and unfortunate situation but it is what it is.  You will more than likely benefit for keeping a good report, even if you never use credit. There are many credit scores that can be calculated from your report; the score is just a number used to compare and evaluate you on a common set of criteria. If you think about it, that doesn't make sense.  The score is a reflection of how you use credit.  Having and using credit is a commitment.  Your are committing to the lender that you will repay them as agreed. Your choice is who you decide to make agreements with.  I personally find the business practices of my local credit union to be more palatable than the business practices of the national bank I was with.  I chose to use credit provided by the credit union rather than by the bank.  I am careful about where I take auto loans from, and to what extent I can control it, where I take home loans from. Since it is absolutely a commitment, you are personally responsible for making sure that you like who you are making commitments with. "Credit Unions have long advocated their services based on the fact that they consider your ""character.""  Unfortunately, they are then at a loss to explain how they determine the value of your character, other than to say that you're buddies & play pool together so they'll give you a loan. Your Credit History / Score is as accurate a representation of your character in business dealings as can be meaningfully quantified.  It tracks your ability to effectively use and manage debt, and your propensity to pay it back responsibly or default on obligations.  While it isn't perfect, it is certainly one of the best means currently available for determining someone's trustworthiness when it comes to financial matters." "I think the part of your question about not wanting to ""mess up more"" is the most important element. You say you know someone with good credit who is willing to co-sign for you, but let's be honest -- your credit isn't bad for no reason.  Your credit's bad because you have a history of not paying on your obligations. Putting someone else's credit at risk, even though they may be willing to try and help, could be doing exactly what you said you're trying to avoid -- messing up more.  This person's heart is in the right place, but you really have to ask yourself if you should put them in jeopardy by agreeing to guarantee your debts. So the vehicle you bought is older and has a lot of miles -- you knew that when you bought it.  So you're paying a high interest rate because of your bad credit history -- you knew that when you bought it.  Why you think the vehicle's only going to last another year is what confuses me.  There are many vehicles out there with much higher mileage that are still on the road, and with proper preventative maintenance there's no reason your truck can't do the same. The fact is, you just don't like what you're paying or what you're driving (even though you were good with both when someone was willing to extend you credit), so now you see this other person's willingness to co-sign for you as your ticket out of a situation you no longer want to be in. My suggestion is that you stay with the loan you have, take care of the vehicle to make it last, and prove that you can pay your obligations.  Hopping from loan to loan isn't going to do your credit any favors.  One of the big factors for your credit score is the average age of accounts.  Going and signing a new loan now will only drag that number down and hurt your score, not help it.  And there's no guarantee the next car you buy with your friend's help is going to last the length of that loan either. I would be careful about this ""grass is greener on the other side"" attitude and just bear through your situation, if only to prove to yourself that you can do it.   There's nothing saying your friend won't still be willing to co-sign for you later on down the line of something does happen to the truck, but you can show them that you're trying to be responsible in the meantime by following through on what you already agreed to." so what do you think of this article? we hope you can take the time to post your comments and reactions below. that way, we can help all those who are planning to sign up for credit repair services or are interested to take matters into their own hands in terms of paying off their credit obligations, once and for all.