Can I rely on my home equity to finance large home repairs?
Personally, I'd use my emergency fund first. It is unlikely (though possible, of course) that I will entirely lose my income at the same time I need to replace my roof or my furnace. I'd rather pay my emergency fund back with installment payments than pay off a HELOC to my bank. The lost interest on my emergency fund, which, after all, should be in cash, is much less than the cost of the loan. I could even set up an amortization schedule in a spreadsheet and charge myself interest when paying back into the emergency fund. That said, if I didn't have the cash in my emergency fund, I'd rather borrow against the house than finance with a contractor. If they'd even do that, which is unlikely--I've never dealt with a roofer or heating contractor that required anything but full payment at time of service. Home equity borrowing is generally the cheapest kind. I'm firmly in the camp of those who look at home ownership as a consumption decision rather than an investment. If the value goes up, great, but I just build in about 1% of the cost of building a new house (excluding the land price) into the housing budget each year, right along with mortgage interest, property taxes and basic utilities. Usually, that's enough to cover the major wear-and-tear related repairs (averaged over 3-5 year periods, anyway). "Yes, a HELOC is great for that. I just had my roof done last month (~$15K, ""ugh"") and pretty much every major contractor in my area had a 0% same-as-cash for at least 12 months. So that helps - any balance that I don't bank by 11/15/2015 will be on the HELOC."
Your friends are overlooking a couple of problems with house prices and salaries being out of whack: Home 'equity' is a paper gain unless you realize it by selling the house. If you don't, but use the 'home ATM', all you're doing is piling up more debt that's secured on an asset that has downside risk. Ask anybody who's refinanced their house to buy a new boat or SUV in 2006/2007. In other words you're remortgaging the chickens before the eggs hatched. Of course they're also forgetting that all this debt will have to be paid back at some point, and that usually takes income, not equity. In a certain sense the housing market is a pyramid scheme that requires an influx of new buyers to maintain prices. Very simply, if you can't sell your house to buy a bigger one because the first time buyer you're trying to sell it to can't afford the down payment or the payment on the mortgage, then you can't sell your house to buy a bigger/better/nicer one and the next person in the chain can't sell his/hers. Cue the domino effect. House prices are only sustainable if people actually can afford to buy houses and if there's a massive disconnect between house prices and salaries, then house prices will fall eventually. It might just take a little longer depending on the amount of creative financing options that will eventually dry up. I agree they are able to reduce prices in store to thin margins and rely on on a large amount of sales. My point is that the cost increase on product from wages is proportionally smaller than the increase in pay the worker is taking home. So yes, a Big Mac would cost about 17 cents more at a minimum wage of $15 an hour to maintain the same margins ( https://www.google.com/amp/s/thinkprogress.org/amp/p/184b7523b273 ), but the workers wage is doubled. There are two scenarios that I see. You have a mortgage on the property. Generally the insurance company sends the funds to the lender, who then releases the funds to you  as you make the repairs. They do it this way because if you never make the repairs the value of the collateral is decreased, and the lender wants to protect their investment. There is no mortgage. You will get the funds directly, and the insurance company will not force you to make the repairs especially if the repairs are cosmetic in nature.  In either case if you don't fix the cause of the leak, and make repairs to the site around the leak, you will run into a problem in the future if the leak continues, or the rot and mold continues to spread.  If you file a future claim they are likely to ask for proof of the original repair. If you didn't make it, they are likely to deny the second claim. They will say the cause is the original incident and if you had made the repair, the second incident wouldn't have happened. They are likely to drop you at that point. If you try to sell the house you will have to disclose the original leak, and the potential buyers will want you to make the repairs. Any mold or rot spotted by the home inspector will be a big issue for them. It is also likely to be an item that they will be advised to demand that you get a legitimate company to make the repair before the deal can move forward, and won't negotiate a lower price or a credit for $x so they can get the repair done. Some will just cancel the deal based on the inspection report. "I would strongly consider renting; as homes are often viewed by people as ""investments"" but in reality they are costs, just like renting. The time-frame for return is so long, the interest rate structure in terms of your mortgage payments; if you buy, you must be prepared to and willing to stay at minimum 7-10 years; because anything can happen. Hot markets turn cold. Or stale, and just the closing costs will cause it be less advantageous to renting.  Before buying a property, ask yourself does it meet these 5 criteria:  IDEAL I - Income; the property will provide positive cash flow through renters.  D - Depreciation; tax savings.  E - Equity; building equity in the property- the best way is through interest only loans. There is NO reason to pay any principle on any property purchase. You do 5 year interest only loans; keep your payments low; and build equity over time as the property price rises. Look how much ""principle"" you actually pay down over the first 7 years on a 30 year mortgage. Virtually Nil.  A - Appreciation - The property will over time go up in value. Period. There is no need to pay any principle. Your Equity will come from this... time.  L - Leverage; As the property becomes more valuable; you will have equity stake, enabling you to get higher credit lines, lines of equity credit, to purchase more properties that are IDEA.  When you are RICH, MARRIED, and getting ready for a FAMILY, then buy your home and build it.  Until then, rent, it will keep your options open. It will keep your costs low. It will protect you from market downturns as leases are typically only 1 year at most. You will have freedom. You will not have to deal with repairs. A new Water Heater, AC unit, the list goes on and on. Focus on making money, and when you want to buy your first house. Buy a duplex; rent it out to two tenants, and make sure it's IDEAL." I agree. I have physical cash hidden in my house, a trick I learned from an elderly neighbor whose husband demanded they do it and it paid off for them twice. I have that and then will rely on credit if needed. My only question is if the statistic they mention is ALL savings or just what is in liquid assets. You can often convert the outstanding balance of a HELOC into a fixed-rate home equity loan, generally with the same bank.  Doing this can open possibilities to extend the term allowing for lower monthly payments, but resulting in a larger overall payoff cost. Most HELOCs allow for an interest-only payment or in some cases no-payment at all if you still have unused available credit. Not advising that you do this. If you are struggling with the size of the payment converting to a fixed-rate, fixed-term loan may be what you need. The key will be getting the term such that you can manage both the principal and interest that will be included in the payment. "At 50 years old, and a dozen years or so from retirement, I am close to 100% in equities in my retirement accounts.  Most financial planners would say this is way too risky, which sort of addresses your question.  I seek high return rather than protection of principal.  If I was you at 22, I would mainly look at high returns rather than protection of principal. The short answer is, that even if your investments drop by half, you have plenty of time to recover.  But onto the long answer. You sort of have to imagine yourself close to retirement age, and what that would look like.  If you are contributing at 22, I would say that it is likely that you end up with 3 million (in today's dollars).  Will you have low or high monthly  expenses?  Will you have other sources of income such as rental properties?   Let's say you rental income that comes close to covering your monthly expenses, but is short about 12K per year.  You have a couple of options: So in the end let's say you are ready to retire with about 60K in cash above your emergency fund.  You have the ability to live off that cash for 5 years.  You can replenish that fund from equity investments at opportune times.  Its also likely you equity investments will grow a lot more than your expenses and any emergencies.  There really is no need to have a significant amount out of equities.  In the case cited, real estate serves as your cash investment. Now one can fret and say ""how will I know I have all of that when I am ready to retire""?  The answer is simple: structure your life now so it looks that way in the future.  You are off to a good start.  Right now your job is to build your investments in your 401K (which you are doing) and get good at budgeting.  The rest will follow.  After that your next step is to buy your first home. Good work on looking to plan for your future." A lot of people do this. For example, in my area nice townhouses go for about $400K, so if you have $80,000 you can buy one and rent it. Here are the typical numbers: So you would make $350 per month or $4,200 per year on $80,000 in capital or about 5% profit. What can go wrong: (1) The property does not rent and sits vacant. You must come up with $2100 in mortgage payments, taxes, and insurance every month without fail or default. (2) Unexpected expenses. A new furnaces costs over $5,000. A new roof costs $7,000. A new appliance costs $600 to $2000 depending on how upscale your property is. I just had a toilet fixed for a leaky plunger. It cost me $200. As you can see maintenance expenses can quickly get a lot higher than the $50 shown above... and not only that, if you fix things as cheaply as possible (as most landlords do), not only does that decrease the rentability of the property, but it causes stuff to break sooner. (3) Deadbeats. Some people will rent your property and then not pay you. Now you have a property with no income, you are spending $2100 per month to pay for it, AND you are facing steep attorney fees to get the deadbeats evicted. They can fight you in court for months. (4) Damage, wear and tear. Whenever a tenant turns over there is always a lot of broken or worn stuff that has to be fixed. Holes in the wall need to be patched. Busted locks, broken windows, non-working toilets, stains on the carpet, stuck doors, ripped screens, leaky showers, broken tiles, painting exterior trim, painting walls, painting fences, etc. You can spend thousands every time a tenant changes. Other caveats: Banks are much more strict about loaning to non home owners. You usually have to have reserve income. So, if you have little or no income, or you are stretched already, it will be difficult to get commercial loans. For example, lets say your take-home pay is $7,000 and you have no mortgage at all (you rent), then it is fine, the bank will loan you the money. But lets say you only have $5,000 in take home pay and you have an $1,800 mortgage on your own home. In that case it is very unlikely a bank will allow you to assume a 2nd mortgage on a rental property. The more you try to borrow, the more reserve income the bank will require. This tends to set a limit on how much you can leverage.