Can I locate the name of an account holder by the account number and sort code? (U.K.)
"No, the best you can do is (probably) determine the bank, from the sort code. using an online checker such as this one from the UK payments industry trade association. Revealing the name of an account holder is something the bank would typically require a warrant for, I'd expect, or whatever is covered in the account T&Cs under ""we provide all lawfully required assistance to the authorities"" Switching to what I suspect is your underlying problem - if this is a dispute that's arisen at the end of your tenancy, relating to the return of the deposit, then there are plenty of people to help you, for free. Use those rather than attempting your own detective work. Start with the UK government How to Rent guide, which includes links on to Shelter's pages about deposits. The CAB has lots of good info here too. Note that if your landlord didn't put your deposit in a deposit protection scheme, then as a professional landlord they could be penalised four times (I think) the deposit amount by a court, so stick to your guns on this."
Yes, you are generally allowed to make contributions yourself to your HSA, even if your employer also made contributions. Let me explain further. The contribution limit for tax year 2015 is $3350 for individual coverage.  (It is higher for family coverage, or for account holders age 55+.)  The limit is for everything contributed to the HSA, whether it is an employer contribution or an account holder contribution.  (In other words, if your limit is $3350, and your employer contributed $3000, you can only contribute $350.) As far as the IRS is concerned, anything that your employer sends in is considered an employer contribution.  This might be money from the company as part of a benefit, or it might be money deducted from your salary as part of a voluntary contribution on your part.  Either way, if the employer sends it in, it is an employer contribution.  None of this employer contribution shows up on your W-2 as taxable income, so you don't get to deduct it on your tax return.  It has already been taken off of your income. Money that you send in yourself with your after-tax dollars is your account holder contribution.  This is money that you can deduct on your tax return, so that you aren't paying tax on this money. So here is what you need to do: Determine your total HSA contribution limit for tax year 2015. Find out how much your employer has already contributed for 2015.  The difference is how much you can still contribute for 2015. Contact your HSA provider and find out how to make a 2015 contribution.  Don't just send money in, because there is probably a form they want you to fill out to make a prior year contribution. Get all this done by April 15, the deadline for making a prior year contribution.  Actually, get it done before April 15, because often there will be some sort of delay of a day or two that will prevent you from doing this on the last day. "Having a separate checking account for the business makes sense. It simplifies documenting your income/expenses. You can ""explain"" every dollar entering and exiting the account without having to remember that some of them were for non-business items. My credit union allowed me to have a 2nd checking account and allowed me to put whatever I wanted as the name on the check. I think this looked a little better than having my name on the check. I don't see the need for a separate checking account for investing. The money can be kept in a separate savings account that has no fees, and can even earn a little interest. Unless you are doing a lot of investment transactions a month this has worked for me. I fund IRAs and 529 plans this way. We get paychecks 4-5 times a month, but send money to each of the funds once a month. You will need a business account if the number of transactions becomes large. If you deposit dozens of checks every time you go to the bank, the bank will want to move you to a business account." Do an semi-online transfer. I had a similar situation where i had to transfer 5K USD to a commercial entity. You can request the publisher to give you their bank account details. You will need the SWIFT code of the bank( SWIFT code is a international code that each bank gets to transfer money) You will need bank account number, account name, bank address, address of the publisher. Then just walk into your bank with the above details. Note that you will have to visit a branch in your city that allows forex transfers. They will give you a set of forms to fill up. The above details will be needed to fill up these forms In addition to the above, you will be asked to fill up a purpose code maintained by RBI.  This code is used by RBI to understand the reason why you are transferring the money. The bank will provide you with a sheet which will have these codes and explanation of these codes. Read through the codes and in case of any questions ask the bank officials to help Tip: If you have accounts with any private sector banks, please approach them. Public sector banks will give you tough time  Hope this helps! Regards, Ravi Congratulations on deciding to save for retirement. Since you cite Dave Ramsey as the source of your 15% number, what does he have to say about where to invest the money? If you want to have instantaneous penalty-free access to  your retirement money, all you need to do is set up one or more ordinary accounts that you think of  as your retirement money. Just be careful not to  put the money into CDs since Federal law requires a penalty of three months interest if you cash in the CD before its maturity date (penalty!) or put the money into those pesky mutual funds that charge a redemption fee (penalty!) if you take the money out within x months of investing it where x can be anywhere from 3 to 24 or more. In Federal tax law (and in most state tax laws as well) a retirement account has special privileges accorded to it in that the interest, dividends, capital gains, etc earned on the money in your retirement account are not taxed in the year earned (as they would be in a non-retirement account), but the tax is  either deferred till you withdraw money from the  account (Traditional IRAs, 401ks etc) or is waived completely (Roth IRAs, Roth 401ks etc). In return for this special treatment, penalties are imposed (in addition to tax) if you withdraw money from your retirement account before age 59.5 which presumably is on the distant horizon for you. (There are some exceptions (including first-time home buying and extraordinary medical expenses) to this rule that I won't bother going into). But You are not required to invest your retirement   money into such a specially privileged retirement   account. It is perfectly legal to keep your retirement money   in an ordinary savings account if you wish, and pay taxes on the   interest each year.  You can invest your retirement   money into municipal bonds whose interest is free of   Federal tax (and usually free of state tax as well   if the municipality is located in your state of   residence) if you like. You can keep your retirement money in a   sock under your mattress if you like, or buy a   collectible item (e.g. a painting) with it   (this is not permitted in an IRA), etc. In short, if you are concerned about the penalties imposed by retirement accounts on early withdrawals, forgo the benefits of these accounts and put your retirement money elsewhere where there is no penalty for instant access.  If you use a money management program such as Mint or Quicken, all you need to do is name one or more accounts or a portfolio as MyRetirementMoney and voila, it is done. But those accounts/portfolios don't have to be retirement accounts in the sense of tax law; they can be anything at all. It may be a scam. But it also may be a company trying to find a person with the same or similar name. They may have followed a trail to her old address, and still not have the correct person. They bought number of old debts at a large discount, and are trying to track down any money they can find. It is best to ignore it, especially if they know it isn't their debt. If they start providing more proof then get interested. If they keep contacting them tell them there is no business relationship and they should stop. "In Britain it's standard practice to use an electronic bank transfer, otherwise known as a ""standing order"" for the monthly rent payment. Many letting agents insist on it here in Britain. It's rare to hear of fraud. It is possible to setup a Direct Debit with the account numbers, as happened in a famous case where Jeremy Clarkson claimed losing account numbers wasn't a problem. If a direct debit is taken from your account, then you are protected by the the Direct Debit guarantee which means that you get a full and immediate refund if there is any fraud or unexpected payments spotted. Some landlords, particularly of bedsits accept plain old cash, however that's not recommended as there is no trace of it being paid, which could lead to legal disputes." I hate to say it but it sounds like Chase sent the money to the right account, but you entered the wrong number.  I'm not terribly well versed in Chase's terms of service but I'd say you're probably on your own.  With that said, the person who received the money has done nothing for it and legally should return it.  Obviously it's difficult to trace a phone number to a name and/or address but if you were able to match the person I'd imagine a stern letter on a legal letter head would be enough to have the person return the money. Nowadays, the field is irrelevant for processing the transfer and completely ignored by the banks. Pretty much the only purpose it has is for documenting whom you intended to send the transfer to. If you mistakenly send a transfer to the wrong person (which is becoming extremely unlikely with the IBAN due to the builtin check digits) then they are mandated by law to give it back to you. If they refuse to do so and you end up going to court, the content of that field could be important to prove them wrong if they claim they are the rightful recipient.