Car as business expense, but not because of driving
"To be deductible, a business expense must be both ordinary and necessary. An ordinary expense is one that is common and accepted in your trade or business. A necessary expense is one that is helpful and appropriate for your trade or business. An expense does not have to be indispensable to be considered necessary.  (IRS, Deducting Business Expenses) It seems to me you'd have a hard time convincing an auditor that this is the case.  Since business don't commonly own cars for the sole purpose of housing $25 computers, you'd have trouble with the ""ordinary"" test.  And since there are lots of other ways to house a computer other than a car, ""necessary"" seems problematic also."
Hard to say in general. It depends on the actual numbers.  First you need to check the suggested retail price of a new car, and the price that you can actually get it for. The difference between these prices is between non-existing and huge, depending on the car. Some dealers will sell you a car that has done 50 miles for a huge rebate - that means they can't sell their cars at full price but don't want to reduce the price. Used cars can be quite expensive compared to a new car or not, also depending on the brand.  Estimate that a brand new car should drive 12 years and 200,000 miles without major repairs (go for a car with generous warranty or check reviews to make sure you are buying a long lasting car). Calculate the cost per year. Since you prefer driving a nicer new car, increase the cost for the first four years and reduce the cost for the last four years. With that information, check what the used car costs and if that is reasonable. Assuming 12 years life, a six your old car should be quite a bit less than 50% of a new one.  You can improve your cost a bit: If your annual mileage is low, you might find a rather new car with huge mileage quite cheap which will still last many years. Or if your annual mileage is excessively high, you can look for a car that is a bit older with low mileage.  Anyway, paying 70% of the price of a new passenger car for a used car that is six years old (you say <7 years, so I assume six years) seems excessive; it would mean the first user effectively paid 30% of the new price to drive the car for six years, and you pay 70% to drive another six years (estimated). You'd be much much better off buying a new car and selling it for 70% after six years. "Be careful here: If ACME were in California, I would pay taxes on USD 17,000 because I   had revenue of 20,000 and expenses of 3,000. To CALIFORNIA. And California taxes S-Corps. And, in addition, you'd pay $800 for the right of doing business in the State. All that in addition to the regular Federal and State taxes to the State where you're resident. Suppose that ACME is in Britain (or anywhere else for that matter). My   revenue and expenses are the same, but now my money has been earned   and my expenses incurred in a foreign country. Same thing exactly. Except that you'll have to pay taxes to the UK. There may be some provision in the tax treaty to help you though, so you may end up paying less taxes when working in the UK than in California. Check with a licensed tax adviser (EA/CPA licensed in your State) who won't run away from you after you say the words ""Tax Treaty"". Does it even make sense to use my S-Corporation to do business in a   foreign country? That should be a business decision, don't let the tax considerations drive your business." I would say that, for the most part, money should not be invested in the stock market or real estate.  Mostly this money should be kept in savings: I feel like your emergency fund is light.  You do not indicate what your expenses are per month, but unless you can live off of 1K/month, that is pretty low.  I would bump that to about 15K, but that really depends upon your expenses. You may want to go higher when you consider your real estate investments.  What happens if a water heater needs replacement?  (41K left) EDIT:  As stated you could reduce your expenses, in an emergency, to 2K.  At the bare minimum your emergency fund should be 12K.  I'd still be likely to have more as you don't have any money in sinking funds or designated savings and the real estate leaves you a bit exposed.  In your shoes, I'd have 12K as a general emergency fund.  Another 5K in a car fund (I don't mind driving a 5,000 car), 5k in a real estate/home repair fund, and save about 400 per month for yearly insurance and tax costs.  Your first point is incorrect, you do have debt in the form of a car lease.  That car needs to be replaced, and you might want to upgrade the other car.  How much?  Perhaps spend 12K on each and sell the existing car for 2K?  (19K left). Congratulations on attempting to bootstrap a software company.  What kind of cash do you anticipate needing?  How about keeping 10K designated for that?  (9K left) Assuming that medical school will run you about 50K per year for 4 years how do you propose to pay for it?  Assuming that you put away 4K per month for 24 months and have 9K, you will come up about 95K short assuming some interests in your favor.  The time frame is too short to invest it, so you are stuck with crappy bank rates. "My car, that you've probably never even heard of, can recognize street lines, pedestrians, other cars, rain, whether I'm paying attention and road conditions. It can apply the gas, the brakes, and steer. It can drive itself and park itself.  Having said all that it's, at times, profoundly stupid. 60% of the time it can drive itself perfectly competently; 20% of the time it struggles and 20% of the time it would happily smash into a ditch. Not great but this is on a car that isn't even advertised as having any level of autonomy.  So, my thinking on it has evolved. I do think we're a long way away from a car you can truly trust to drive you. However I think we're probably only about 2 to 3 model years away from a reasonably priced production car that can do MOST of the driving, safely, with you there just to make sure it doesn't screw up.  In fact, the autonomous features on my car are gimped on purpose. The car CAN fully steer itself in reasonably well painted lines but Ford engineers have the system turn itself off if you aren't actively ""helping"" it. if they threw caution to the wind my current car with current tech could drive without me touching anything for probably about 60% of my ride to and from work.  Further, the system itself is surprisingly sophisticated in some ways. Lane marker recognition is very good. The control that the system exhibits during assisted parking is...it's hard to even explain unless you experience it. Suffice to say that the mechanical and sensor tech is already here.  I still think we're a very long way away from getting into your back seat and telling the car to take you somewhere so if you define self-driving that way then yes, it's a long distance away. But if you define self-driving as needing to be there but not needing to do much, I think that's very close." "Directors can be held responsible for the liabilities of the corporation - see this Wikipedia article - and especially if it was clear that was the reason for the arrangement, you might well find this happening. That said, I know a Canadian who sold his house to a corporation he already owned (he was doing consulting work through it) at the (in his opinion ridiculously high) amount it had been assessed for property tax purposes. The company paid and claimed any and all expenses including paying for the lawn to be mowed and the house to be painted. He lived in it at a reduced rent (this rent was then income to the company) in exchange for looking after it. He was very happy with the arrangement. He was losing the ""no income tax when you sell your primary residence"" benefit we have here, but since he expected to never be able to sell it for more than the amount the company had paid, he wasn't worried. If the company exists for no reason other than to shelter income, hide you from liability, and reduce your taxes, then I would expect it would get you some unwanted attention and possibly some rulings you didn't like. If the company exists for a real purpose, and has income and expenses that outweigh whatever games you're playing with cars and homes, you might be able to achieve this. You need to work out what the benefits (other than ducking liabilities) would be and whether they are worth the hassle." I wouldn't give it a second thought. I'd get rid of the extra car and do everything I could in the following months to repay the emergency fund. Even without the interest payments, I'd consider getting rid of an unused car due to the very nature of a car being a depreciating asset that has insurance expenses and annual registration fees on top of that depreciation. The one exception to the above would be a classic car that was purchased for an investment that is always garaged and doesn't need to be registered for road use. I take it for granted that most people who can afford such investments don't need my advice about when to sell. "I would say to only bother keeping the ones you know you'll use for itemized deductions. This includes any unreimbursed business expenses and vehicle licensing fees. There are a lot of other itemized tax deductions possible, but those are two common ones. Also, keep track of your business mileage (mileage before and after the trip, and commuting doesn't count as ""business mileage""). You may also want to keep receipts of all out-of-state purchases if your state is one of those that tries to collect state tax on out-of-state purchases. Ensure your supported charities are 501(c)(3), and they'll give you a receipt at the end of the year. Don't bother keeping fast food or gas receipts (unless they're business expenses)." Since you are using the percentage method to determine the home/business use split, I would think that under most circumstances the distance driven to get your car from the dealership to home, and from home to mechanic and back would be less than 1% of the total miles driven. This is an acceptable rounding error. When refueling, I typically do that on my way to another destination and therefore it's not something I count separately.  If your miles driven to attend to repair/refueling tasks are more than 1% of the total miles driven, split them as you feel comfortable in your above examples. I'd calculate the B/P percentages as total miles less maintenance miles, then apply that split to maintenance miles as well.