What one bit of financial advice do you wish you could've given yourself five years ago?
2 things: I wish I had learned my lesson from the dot com bubble before I took a piece of the housing bubble. Maybe not exactly 5 years ago, but the big thing I wish I understood starting out my career was retirement accounts and how they worked. (more like 10 years ago, but that's beside the point) Save, save, save! Both in the notion of squeezing as much value as you can out of every purchase and the notion of putting money away in a savings account. I wish I would have: I wish I had started contributing to the pension fund offered by my employer sooner than it became compulsory. That is, I started working when I was 23 but did not contribute to the pension fund until I was 30 (the age at which it is compulsory to do so). I lost a lot of productive years in mid to late 90s, when the stocks were doing well. :-( I was offered a student credit card and refused it. If I'd taken it and used it sparingly, paying off the balance on time in full every month, I'd have built up a better credit rating in the time period. Compound interest. Next time you buy a 100$ toy realize that if you save it - in x years that 100$ you saved and invested could potentially be more than 100$ where as most likely whatever you're buying will be worth much less. Now, if I wasn't concerned with the integrity of my already tainted soul I would have given myself the following advice five years ago: Advice to myself: the benefits of being self-employed totally outweigh the risks! Get an advanced degree.  This should increase your earning power.  Also learn how to use a computer, this should also tend to increase your earning power. I wish I would have known macro-economics taught by the Austrian School types at The Mises Institute.  Their teachings would have compelled me to do the following: Bank every dollar possible to have more cash available for investing during the 2008/2009 crisis. Planned my grocery shopping better.  You can't just wake up on Saturday hungry go to the grocer and buy what looks good. Take the time to clip some coupons and more importantly make a shopping list. Do your homework on all types bonds and other lower-risk instruments, including bond funds and ETFs. I left too much money sitting around as cash over the last 5 years. When I was contracting I wish I had joined a tax efficient umbrella organisation rather than just work as a sole trader. I also wish I had put money aside to pay my taxes rather than just spend it all. :(
First, you need to be aware that the credit score reported by Mint is Equifax Credit Score. Equifax Credit Score, like FICO, Vantagescore, and others, is based on a proprietary formula that is not publicly available.  Every score is calculated with a different formula, and can vary from each other widely.  Lenders almost exclusively only use FICO scores, so the score number you have is likely different than the score lenders will use. Second, understand that the advice you see from places like Mint and Credit Karma will almost always tell you that you don't have enough credit card accounts.  The reason for this is that they make their money by referring customers to credit card applications.  They have a financial interest in telling you that you need more credit cards. Finally, realize that credit score is just a number, and is only useful for a limited number of things.  Higher is better to a point, and after that, you get no benefit from increasing your score.   My advice to you is this: Don't stress out about your credit score, especially a free score reported by Credit Karma or Mint.  If you really have a desire to find out your score, you can pay FICO to get your actual score, but it's not cheap.  You can also sometimes get your FICO score by applying for a loan and asking the lender.  I last saw my FICO scores (there were three, one from each credit bureau) when I applied for a mortgage a couple of years ago, and the mortgage rep gave them to me for free.  But honestly, knowing your score doesn't do much for you, as the best way to increase it is to simply make your payments on time and wait. Don't give in to bad conventional advice from places that are funded by the financial services industry.  The thing that makes your credit score go up is a long history of paying your bills on time.  Despite what you commonly read about credit scores, I'm not convinced that you can radically boost your scores by having lots of open credit card accounts.  At the time I applied for my last mortgage, I only had 2 open credit cards (still true), and the oldest open account was about 1.5 years old.  The average of my 3 scores was just over 800.  But I've been paying my bills on time for at least 20 years now.  Only get credit cards that you actually want, and close the ones you don't want. "Fundamentals:  Then remember that you want to put 20% or more down in cash, to avoid PMI, and recalculate with thatmajor chunk taken out of your savings.  Many banks offer calculators on their websites that can help you run these numbers and figure out how much house a given mortgage can pay for. Remember that the old advice that you should buy the largest house you can afford, or the newer advice about ""starter homes"", are both questionable in the current market. =========================== Added:  If you're willing to settle for a rule-of-thumb first-approximation ballpark estimate: Maximum mortgage payment: Rule of 28. Your monthly mortgage payment should not exceed 28 percent of your gross monthly income (your income before taxes are taken out).  Maximum housing cost: Rule of 32. Your total housing payments (including the mortgage, homeowner’s insurance, and private mortgage insurance [PMI], association fees, and property taxes) should not exceed 32 percent of your gross monthly income. Maximum Total Debt Service: Rule of 40. Your total debt payments, including your housing payment, your auto loan or student loan payments, and minimum credit card payments should not exceed 40 percent of your gross monthly income. As I said, many banks offer web-based tools that will run these numbers for you. These are rules that the lending industy uses for a quick initial screen of an application. They do not guarantee that you in particular can afford that large a loan, just that it isn't so bad that they won't even look at it. Note that this is all in terms of mortgage paymennts, which means it's also affected by what interest rate you can get, how long a mortgage you're willing to take, and how much you can afford to pull out of your savings. Also, as noted, if you can't put 20% down from savings the bank will hit you for PMI. Standard reminder: Unless you explect to live in the same place for five years or more, buying a house is questionable financially. There is nothing wrong with renting; depending on local housing stock it may be cheaper. Houses come with ongoung costs and hassles rental -- even renting a house -- doesn't. Buy a house only when it makes sense both financially and in terms of what you actually need to make your life pleasant. Do not buy a house only because you think it's an investment; real estate can be a profitable business, but thinking of a house as simultaneously both your home and an investment is a good way to get yourself into trouble." I think the answers you're going to receive are all going to be a bit subjective. Looking at it from a high-level point of view, having this budget nailed down lets you analyze: Now you've got your budget, stick to it! This is really the most important part. You've done your homework, now make sure you don't exceed it without a good reason. If you're under budget in any given month, have a plan on what to do with the excess funds. If you go over budget on a certain area, you can react accordingly.  I, personally, recommend hiring a financial planner. Ours has been a huge help with looking further down the line than we had been originally. If you show up to your first meeting with an FP and have this budgetary breakdown ready to go, you'll probably get a high-five. Well done, you! I have been charting the CPI reported inflation rate vs . the yeald on the 10-year T-note. Usually, the two like to keep pace with each other. Sometimes the T-note is a bit higher than the inflation rate, sometimes the inflation rate is a bit higher than the T-note yeald. One does not appear to follow the other, but (until recently) the two do not diverge from each other by much.  But all that changed recently and I am without an explanation as to why. Inflation dropped to zero (or a bit negative) yet the yeald on the 10-year T-note seemed to seek 2%.  Edit: If you give this response a downvote then please be kind enough to explain why in a comment.  Edit-2: CPI and 10-year T-note are what I have tracked, and continue to track. If you do not like my answer then provide a better one, yourself. How much is your time worth This has been useful for me, judging things based on how much their time value is worth to me, weighted more heavily than their actual worth. For instance, there was a time when I used to work on the weekends and pay to have my laundry done. Doing the laundry myself would have cost 25 cents, but taken two hours at least. Since I was making $45 an hour, I would have lost $90 dollars by doing my laundry, instead of paying specialists $28 to do it for me, much better than I would. Your own capital should begin growing at a rate that makes many MANY things worth less than the time it takes for you to entertain it. So in your cable bill example, you shouldn't have argued for a $5 credit for two hours, unless you make $2.25 an hour, after tax. This is simplistic, as you would extrapolate how much this would cost you over a year or two, but such cost benefit analysis' become easy with this simple concept. This can also be used to rationalize your lavish expenditures. Such as not really comparing the costs for a flight, because its a 2 hour flight for $400 and you've found yourself making at least $200 an hour with your $416,000 annual earnings and capital gains. This will cure your frugality while retaining safe guards on your spending. Those are all predictions.  To the core. With anything, I'd consider the source carefully before taking any kind of advice.  If it's from a financial magazine, who advertises with them?  What are they selling?  How well do they recognize which side of the bread is buttered? That, and I'd get a lot of advice, see how it matches with your goals, and choose. All of that being said, you do have time to recover should you blow it. I think you're not considering the opportunity cost of giving up your money early.  I'm not sure what the total money you have to spend, but spending extra on things you're going to buy later might not be the best choice.   Consider you could just get a credit card that does 3% (6% with fee) on groceries, 3% on gas, etc.  So you can make some money there without spending it all up front. Also, you could be turning that money into more money by investing it.  Assuming you're not going to just carry a balance and pay interest on the card, you have this cash on hand to invest. One more thing, I'm not sure of your financial situation but I don't think something like spending an extra 5k is a pittance to you (since you wanted $500 so badly).  Having the cash at hand has its own advantages even if you're just sitting on it. In short, consider if you want to follow through with this plan.  You can still keep the card. I'd keep the risk inside the well-funded retirement accounts. Outside those accounts, I'd save to have a proper emergency fund, not based on today's expenses, but on expenses post house. The rest, I'd save toward the downpayment. 20% down, with a reserve for the spending that comes with a home purchase.  It's my opinion that 3-5 years isn't enough to put this money at risk.