give free budgeting advice
They've asked you, so your advice is welcome.  That's your main concern, really. I'd also ask them how much, and what kind of advice.  Do they want you to point them to good websites?  On what subjects?  Or do they want more personal advice and have you to look over their bank accounts and credit card statements, provide accountability, etc.? Treat them the same way you'd want to be treated if you asked for help on something that you were weak on. The counsel of a friend doesn't come with a legal or professional liability. The key to doing this sort of thing successfully is to respect boundaries. You are providing advice and discussion, not taking over your friend's life. "Legally ok? Sure. Friends frequently discuss financial matters, and share advice. This is quite far from taking money from them and managing it, where at some point you need to be licensed for such things. If you're concerned about giving bad advice, just stay generic. The best advice has no risk. If I offer a friend a stock tip, of course there's the chance the stock goes south, but when I tell a friend who asks about the difference between Mutual Funds and ETFs, and we discuss the expenses each might have, I'm still leaving the decision as to which ETF to him. When I offer the 'fortune cookie' soundbites like ""If you are going to make a large purchase, delay it a week for each $100 of value. e.g. if you really want a $1000 TV, sleep on it for a few months"" no one can mis-apply this.  I like those two sites you mentioned, but the one-on-one is good for the friend and for you. You can always learn more, and teaching helps you hone your skills."
"Whether your financial status is considered ""OK"" depends on your aspirations.  You aren't spending more than you earn and have no debt.  That puts you in the category of OK in my book, but the information in your post indicates that you would benefit from some financial advice--100 grand sounds like a lot of money to have in a bank unless you are on the verge of spending it. Financial advisors come in various shapes and sizes.  Many will charge you a lot for what turns out to be helpful advice in the first meeting, but very little value-added thereafter.  Some don't have the best incentives (they may be incentivized to encourage you to put your money into certain funds, for example). There are many financial advisors (of sorts) that you have access to that won't cost you anything.  For example, if you have a 401(k) at work, I bet there is a representative from the plan administrator that will meet with you for free.  If you open a brokerage account or IRA at any place (Fidelity, Vanguard, etc.) you can easily talk with one of their reps and get all sorts of advice.  My personal take is to meet with anyone who will meet with me for free, but not to pay anyone for this service.  It's too easy to get good advice and paying for it doesn't guarantee that you get better advice. Your financial situation will depend primarily on a few things you have not mentioned here.  For example, How much are you setting aside for retirement and what are your retirement goals?  This is something lots of people can give you advice on, but we don't know what market returns will be going forward so we don't really know.  One bit of advice that may benefit you is how to set aside money for retirement in the most tax advantaged way. How much do you feel that you need saved up for large expenses?  Thinking of starting a family?  How many months worth of income are you comfortable having set aside? What is your tolerance of risk?  If you put your money in risky assets, you may make more, but you may also actually lose money.  Those are the questions a financial advisor will ask about.  Once you have his/her advice--and preferrably after talking to a few advisors--you can make your own decision. Basically, your options are: Rules of thumb: Save only what makes sense to save in banks given your expected needs for cash. Put a lot in tax advantaged accounts (don't give Uncle Sam any gifts). Then look at financial and real investments. There are a number of free resources on the internet.  For example FutureAdvisor.  Or you can hit up the forums at BogleHeads.  Those guys give and receive financial advice as a hobby.  They aren't professionals, but you can get a lot of varying ideas and make up your own mind, which to me is better than (just) asking a professional. BTW, regarding the ESPP: these plans often give you a discount on stock and can therefore be a good idea.  Just be sure you don't hold the stock longer than you need to.  It's generally a bad idea to concentrate your wealth in any single investment, especially one highly correlated with your background risk (i.e., if the company does poorly you will already be worse off because you may lose your job or see fewer advancement opportunities. No need to add losses in your savings to that).  1 Please note: I am neither advocating nor discouraging buying guns, gold, or other controversial real assets.  I'm just giving examples of items some people buy as part of their wealth-preservation strategy." &gt;You seem to have missed half the plan. My suggestion to not charge back hours is meant to work with the idea of giving each department a budget in terms of hours.  And what do you do with the department that uses up its budgeted hours by say... July or August?  Do they get to simply ignore that they have gone over budget? (In which case, what use is the budget.)   Ooops (guess you missed that little complication). "There is no free lunch. ""Free"" can cost you a small fortune over time.  If you wish to sit through a free pitch you may as well go to a time share seminar. Just keep your hands in your pocket and don't sign anything.  In the end, you will be best served spending the time it will take to learn to manage your own money. Short term, spend a few hundred dollars and find a fee only planner who will give you general advice.  My disdain for the ""bank guy"" goes back to an overheard conversation. An older woman, in her 70s was asking about investing in T-bills vs the bank CD. T-bills were a bit higher yield at the time. The banker stated that the CD was FDIC insured,but T-bills were not. This was decades ago, but I remember it as if it were yesterday." If you receive a loan from your parents, it is treated legally just as a loan fom a bank, or from any private person with spare money. You don't pay tax on a loan that you get from your bank (or your parents), and the bank (or your parents) don't pay tax when you repay the loan. If you pay interest, the parents will have to pay tax on the interest, just like they would have to pay tax if the money was in their own bank account.  I would advice both you and your parents to make sure that a contract is signed saying that this is a loan, and how it is repaid, and that you follow the contract. Otherwise, if you or your parents treat the loan as an actual present, then you might have to pay tax, because there is tax due on gifts. And you might get a penalty for trying to avoid tax by declaring the gift as a loan. So pay the money back! Only up to £3,000 in cash gifts that a person gives each year is tax free, but the parents can use any unused money from last year (so they can give a gift of £6,000 if they gave nothing in the previous year), and it is per parent, so both the mother and father can make a gift. "Gail Vaz-Oxlade from the television show Til Debt Do Us Part has a great interactive budget worksheet that helps you set up a ""jar"" or envelope system for each month based on your income and fixed expenses.  We have used this successfully in the past.  What we found most useful was, as others have said, writing everything down, keeping receipts, and thus being accountable and aware of our spending." "The question posted was, ""Should I pay off a 0% car loan""? The poster provided a few details: I'm ahead on 0% interest car loan. I don't have to make a payment until October. I currently owe $3,000 and I could pay it all off. Should I do that or leave that money in my savings account that earns 2% interest? The question seems to seek a general rule of thumb for how to behave with smaller debts. And a general rule of thumb could be taken from one of two principles (which seem to be religious camps). The ""free money"" camp believes that you can invest (even small amounts) of money risk-free and receive high returns, tax free, for zero effort. The ""reduce debt"" camp believes that you should pay off debts so that you have the freedom to live your life unfettered. Which religion do you prefer? I tend to prefer paying off debts. The ""free money"" tent wants you to pay the car off over the next 6 months, earning interest. Suppose you can earn 2% interest (.02/12 per month), paying $500 per month for 6 months. So you earn interest on 3000 the first month, 2500, the second month, 2000 the third month, So, are you feeling rich, earning $13.13? How much time did you spending making the 5 additional payments? You could skip coffee once/month and make a bigger difference. The ""reduce debt"" tent would have you pay off the car. Suppose you change your deductible on the car (or drop collision) to save money, and you will also same time by avoid 5 bill payments, But do you still have enough money in your emergency fund, how do you feel about having less insurance coverage, and did you notice the time savings? We really need more information about the poster's situation. The answer should consider the relevant details of the situation to provide an informed response. Here are questions that would enable a response to address the whole situation. Why are these important? Here are a few reasons why the above might be important." Thank you for the links I definitely appreciate the help. It looks like there won't be anything free that will be too helpful I just don't want to spend all that money when it's going to be provided to me anyways. I even tried the library and there's a single book in my state that has three holds before me. There is nothing called free lunch. The 2% fee indirectly covers the cost of funds and in effect would be a personal loan. Further the repayment period would typically be 3 months and roughly would translate into 7-9% loan depending of repayment schedule etc. There is no harm in trying to get the fee waived, however one thing can lead to another and they may even go and do an credit inquiry etc, so be cautious.