Where to start with personal finance?
"First thing I'd say is don't start with investing. The foundation of solid finances is cash flow. Making more than you spend, reliably; knowing where your money goes; having a system that works for you to make sure you make more than you spend. Until you have that, your focus may as well be on getting there, because you can't fix much else about your finances until you fix this. A number you want to know is your percentage of income saved, and a good goal for that is about 15%, with 10-12% going to retirement savings and the rest to shorter-term goals and emergency fund and so forth. (Of course the right percentage here depends on your goals and situation, but for most people this is a kind of minimum savings rate to be in good shape.) Focus on your savings rate. This is your profitability, if you view yourself as a business. If it's crappy or negative, your finances will be a mess. Two ways to improve it are to spend less or to improve your earnings power. Doing both is even better. The book Your Money or Your Life by Dominguez and Robin is good for showing how to obsessively focus on cash flow, even though you may not share their zeal for early retirement. A simpler exercise than what they recommend: take 3 months of your checking and credit card statements, go through each expenditure and put them in a spreadsheet column, SUM() that column. Then add up 3 months of after-tax paychecks. Divide both numbers by three and compare. (The 3 months is to average out your spending, which probably varies a lot by month.) After positive cash flow and savings rate, the next thing I'd go through is insurance. Risk management for what you have. This can include checking you have all the important insurance coverages (homeowner's/renter's, auto, potentially umbrella, term life, disability, and of course health insurance, are some highlights); and also adjusting all your policies to be most cost-effective, which usually means raising the deductible if you have a good emergency fund. Often you can raise the deductible on policies you have, and use the savings to add more catastrophe coverage (such as term life if you didn't have it, or boosting the liability protection on your homeowner's, or whatever). Remember, cover catastrophes as cheaply and comprehensively as possible, but don't worry about reimbursement for non-catastrophic expenses. I like this book, Smart and Simple Financial Strategies for Busy People by Jane Bryant Quinn, because it covers all the main personal finance topics, not just investing; and because it is smart and simple. All the main stuff to think about is in the one book and the advice is solid and uncomplicated. Investing can truly be dead easy; most people would be fine with this advice: Honestly, I do micro-optimize and undermine my investing, and I'm guessing most people on this forum do. But it's not something I could defend objectively as a good use of time. It probably is necessary to do some reading to feel financially literate and confident in an investment plan, but the reading isn't really because a good plan is complicated, it's more to understand all the complicated things that you don't need to do, since that's how you'll know not to do them. ;-) Especially when salespeople and publications and TV are telling you over and over and over that you need to know a bunch of crap and do a bunch of things. People who have a profitable ""business of me"" are the ones who end up with a lot of money. Not people who spend a lot of time screwing with investments. (People who get rich investing invest professionally - as their ""business of me"" - they don't goof around with their 401k after work.) Financial security is all about your savings rate, i.e. your personal profitability. No shortcuts, other than lotteries and rich uncles." My reading list for someone just getting into personal finance would include the following I know it's a bunch but I'm trying to cover a few specific things. Yeah it's a bit of reading, but lets face it, nobody is going to care as much about your money as YOU do, and at the very least this kind of knowledge can help fend off a 'shark attack' by someone trying to sell you something not because it's best for you, but because it earns them a fat commission check. Once you've covered those, you have a good foundation, and oh lord there's so many other good books that you could read to help understand more about money, markets etc..  Personally I'd say hit this list, and just about anything on it, is worth your time to read. I've used publishers websites where I could find them, and Amazon otherwise. "This Stack Exchange site is a nice place to find answers and ask questions. Good start! Moving away from the recursive answer... Simply distilling personal finance down to ""I have money, I'll need money in the future, what do I do"", an easily digestible book with how-to, multi-step guidelines is ""I Will Teach You To Be Rich"". The author talks about setting up the accounts you should have, making sure all your bills are paid automatically, saving on the big things and tips to increase your take home pay. That link goes to a compilation page on the blog with many of the most fundamental articles. However, ""The World’s Easiest Guide To Understanding Retirement Accounts"" is a particularly key article. While all the information is on the free blog, the book is well organized and concise.  The Simple Dollar is a nice blog with frugal living tips, lifestyle assessments, financial thoughts and reader questions. The author also reviews about a book a week. Investing - hoping to get better returns than savings can provide while minimizing risk. This thread is an excellent list of books to learn about investing. I highly recommend ""The Bogleheads' Guide to Investing"" and ""The Only Investment Guide You'll Ever Need"". The world of investment vehicles is huge but it doesn't have to be complicated once you ignore all the fads and risky stuff. Index mutual funds are the place to start (and maybe end). Asset allocation and diversification are themes to guide you. The books on that list will teach you." First of all, make sure you have all your credit cards paid in full -the compounding interests on those can zero out returns on any of your private investments. Fundamentally, there are 2 major parts of personal finance: optimizing the savings output (see frugal blogs for getting costs down, and entrepreneur sites for upping revenues), and matching investment vehicles to your particular taste of risk/reward. For the later, Fool's 13 steps to invest provides a sound foundation, by explaining the basics of stocks, indexes, long-holding strategy, etc.   A full list Financial instruments can be found on Wikipedia; however, you will find most of these to be irrelevant to your goals listed above. For a more detailed guide to long-term strategies on portfolio composition, I'd recommend A Random Walk Down Wall Street: The Time-tested Strategy for Successful Investing. One of the most handy charts can be found in the second half of this book, which basically outlines for a given age a recommended asset allocation for wealth creation. Good luck! Personal finance is a fairly broad area.  Which part might you be starting with? From the very basics, make sure you understand your current cashflow: are you bank balances going up or down?  Next, make a budget.  There's plenty of information to get started here, and it doesn't require a fancy piece of software.  This will make sure you have a deeper understanding of where your money is going, and what is it being saved for.  Is it just piling up, or is it allocated for specific purchases (i.e. that new car, house, college tuition, retirement, or even a vacation or a rainy day)? As part of the budgeting/cashflow exercise, make sure you have any outstanding debts covered.  Are your credit card balances under control?  Do you have other outstanding loans (education, auto, mortgage, other)?  Normally, you'd address these in order from highest to lowest interest rate. Your budget should address any immediate mandatory expenses (rent, utilities, food) and long term existing debts.  Then comes discretionary spending and savings (especially until you have a decent emergency fund).  How much can you afford to spend on discretionary purchases?  How much do you want to be able to spend?  If the want is greater than the can, what steps can you take to rememdy that? With savings you can have a whole new set of planning to consider.  How much do you leave in the bank?  Do you keep some amount in a CD ladder?  How much goes into retirement savings accounts (401k, Roth vs. Traditional IRA), college savings accounts, or a plain brokerage account?  How do you balance your overall portfolio (there is a wealth of information on portfolio management)?  What level of risk are you comfortable with?  What level of risk should you consider, given your age and goals?  How involved do you want to be with your portfolio, or do you want someone else to manage it? Silver Dragon's answer contains some good starting points for portfolio management and investing.  Definitely spend some time learning the basics of investing and portfolio management even if you decide to solicit professional expertise; understanding what they're doing can help to determine earlier whether your interests are being treated as a priority. The Money Girl (Quick and Dirty Tips for a richer life) Podcast is a pretty good source for this type of information. Some Recent Topics: "I've recommended this book a few times on this site, and I'm going to do it again. Get a Financial Life: Personal Finance in Your Twenties and Thirties by Beth Kobliner  Most of the personal finance advice books and blogs I have found focus too much on investing, or are more about ""lifestyle"" than finances, and left me unimpressed.  I like this book because it covers most of the major personal finance topics (budgets, rainy-day fund, insurance, retirement, and non-retirement investment).  I have not found another book that covers the topics as concisely as this one. It is no-nonsense, very light reading.  Even if you are not a book person, you can finish it in a weekend.  It is really geared for the young person starting their career. Not the most current book (pre real-estate boom), but the advice is still sound. Keep in mind that is is starting point, not the ultimate answer to all financial questions."
I've been doing healthcare financial consulting for a few years now and I was going to start studying to take CFA Level I and slowly change industries, but ended up learning programming instead. At this point in my career, I'll be way too far behind if I don't solely focus on increasing technical skills related to programming and data science.   I think this is the point in time where if you don't start gaining experience and skills in those areas, any professional field is going to be out of reach in 5 years or so. For healthcare finance, no one will care that you have 10+ years of experience with the industry. If you can't turn the experience into useful data analysis, then no firm is going to want you.  Right now, our firm has moved from the typical pyramid structure with tons of analysts on the bottom and a few high-level consultants at the top towards more of a balloon. Most of our staff are in the middle-tier and we are all with varying level of experience but our real selling point is how we are able to collect and process a hospital's data. I feel like I started working at a typical small finance firm and now I work at a typical SaaS style startup. So, we can feel it in other financial fields, so I'm sure you equity folks are going to have the same experiences. "Your questions seek answers to specifics, but I feel that you may need more general help. There are two things, I feel, that you need to learn about in the general category of personal finance.  Your asking questions about investing, but it is not as important, IMHO, as how you manage your day-to-day operations.   For example, you should first learn to budget.  In personal finance often times ""living on a budget"" equates to poor, or low income.   That is hardly the case.  A budget is a plan on how to spend money.  It should be refreshed each and every month and your income should equal your expenses.  You might have in your budget a $1200 trip into the city to see a concert, hardly what a low income person should have in theirs. Secondly you need to be deliberate about debt management.  For some, they feel that having a car payment and having student loans are a necessary part of life and argue that paying them off is foolish as you can earn more from investments.  Others argue for zero debt.  I fall in the later.  Using and carrying a balance on high interest CCs and having high leases or car payments are just dumb.  They are also easy to wander into unless you are deliberate.   Third you need to prepare for emergencies.  Engineers still get laid off and hurt where they are unable to work.  They get sued.  Having the proper insurance and sufficient reserves in the bank help prevent debt. Now you can start looking into investments.   Start off slow and deliberate with investing.  Put some in your company 401K or open some mutual funds on the side.  You can read about them and talk with advisers, for free, at Fidelity and Vanguard.  Read books from the library. Most of all don't get caught up in too much hype.  Things like Forex, options, life insurance, gold/silver, are not investments.  They are tools for sales people to make fat commissions off the ignorant.      You are fortunate in that Engineers are very likely to retire wealthy.  They are part of the second largest demographic of first generation rich.  The first is small business owners.   To start out I would read Millionaire Next Door and Stop Acting Rich.  For a debt free approach to life, check out Financial Peace University (FPU) by Dave Ramsey (video course).  His lesson on insurance is excellent.   I am an engineer, and my wife a project manager we found FPU life changing and regretted not getting on board sooner.  Along these lines we have had some turmoil, recently, that became little more than an inconvenience because we were prepared." "I speak from a position of experience, My BS and MS are both in Comp Sci. I know very little about loans or finances. That is very unfortunate as you are obviously an intelligent human being.  Perhaps this is a good time to pause your formal education and get educated in personal finance.  To me, it is that important. I study computer science, and am thus confident that I will be able to find work after I finish school. This kind of attitude can lead to trouble.  You will likely have a high salary, but that does not always translate into prosperity.  Personal finance is more about behavior then mathematics.  I currently work with people that have high salaries in a low cost of living area.  Some have lost homes due to foreclosure some are very limited in their options because of high student loan balances.  Some are millionaires without hitting the IPO/startup lotto.  The difference is behavior. It's possible that someone in my family will be able to cosign and help me out with this loan. This is indicative of lack of knowledge and poor financial behavior.  This kind of thing can lead to strained relationships to the point where people don't talk to each other.  Never co-sign for anyone, and if you value the relationship with a person never ask them to co-sign. I'll be working as a TA again for a $1000 stipend. Yikes!  Why in the world would you work for 1K when you need 4K?  You should find a way to earn 6K this semester so you can save some and put some toward the loans you already acquired.  Accepting this kind of situation ""raises red flags"" on your attitude towards personal finance.  And yes it is possible, you can earn that waiting tables and if you can find a part time programming gig you can make a lot more then that.  Consider working as a TA and wait tables until you find that first programming gig. I am just about done with my undergraduate degree, and will be starting graduate school at the same university next semester. To me this is a recipe for failure in most cases.  You have expended all your financing options to date and are planning to go backwards even more.  Why not get out of school with your BS, and go to work?  You can save up some of your MS tuition and most companies will provide tuition reimbursement.   Computer Science/Software Engineering can be a fickle market.  Right now things are going crazy and times are really good.  However that was not always the case during my career and unlikely for yours.  For example, Just this year I bypassed my highest rate of pay that occurred in 2003.  I was out of work most of 2004, and for part of 2005 I actually made less then when I was working while in college.  In 2009 my company cut our salaries by 5%, but the net cost to me was more like a 27% cut.  In 2001 I worked as a contractor for a company that had a 10% reduction in full time employees, yet they kept us contractors working.   Recently I talked with a recruiter about a position doing J2EE, which is what I am doing now.  It required a high level security clearance which is not an easy thing to get.  The rub was that it was located in a higher cost of living area and only paid about 70% of what I am making now.  They required more and paid less, but such is the market.  You need to learn about these things! Good luck." In a perfect world scenario you would get a car 2-5 years old that has very little mileage.  One of the long standing archaic rules of the car world is that age trumps mileage.  This was a good rule when any idiot could roll back an odometer. Chances are now that if you rolled your odometer back the car was serviced somewhere, had inspection or whatever and it is on a report.  If seller was found to do this they could face jail time and obviously now their car is almost worthless. Why do I mention this?  Because you can take a look at 2011 cars.  Those with 20K miles go for just a little more than those with 100K miles.   As an owner you will start incurring heavy maintenance costs around 100K on most newer cars. By buying cars with lower mileage, keeping them for a year or two, and reselling them before they get up in miles, you can stay in that magic area where you can drive a pretty good car for $200-300 a month.  Note that this takes work on both the buying and selling side and you often need cash to get these cars (dealers are good about siphoning really good used cars to employees/friends).   This is a great strategy for keeping costs down and car value up but obviously a lot of people try to do this and it takes work and you have to be willing to settle sometimes on a car that is fine, but not exactly what you want. As for leasing this really gets into three main components: If you are going to do EVERYTHING at a dealership and you want something new or newish you might as well lease.  At least then you can shop around for apples to apples.  The problem with buying a new/used car from the dealers in perpetuity isn't the buying process.  It is the fact that they will screw you on the trade-in.  A car that books for 20K may trade-in for 17K.  Even if the dealer says they are giving you 20K, then they make you pay list price for the car.   I have many many times negotiated a price of a car and then wife brought in our car separately and I can count on ZERO fingers how many times that the dealership honored both sides of the negotiations.  Not only did they not honor them but most refused to talk with us after they found out.   With a lease you don't have to worry about losing this money in the negotiations.  You might pay a little extra (or not since you can shop around) but after the lease you wash your hands of the car.   The one caveat to this is the high-end market.  When you are talking your Acura, Mercedes, Lexus... It is probably better to buy and trade in every couple years.  You lose too much equity by leasing, where it won't cover the trade-in gap and cost of your money being elsewhere.  I have a friend that does this and gets a slightly better car every 2-3 years with same monthly payment.   Another factor to consider is the price of a car.  If your car will be worth over $15K at time of sale you are going to have a hard time selling it by owner.  When amounts get this high people often need financing.  Yes they can get personal financing but most people are too lazy to do this.  So the number of used car buyers on let's say craigslist are way way fewer as you start getting over $10-12K and I have found $15K to be kind of that magic amount.   The pro-buy-used side is easy.  Aim for those cars around $12-18K that are out there (and many still under warranty).  These owners will have issues finding cash buyers.  They will drop prices somewhere between book price and dealer trade-in.  In lucky cases where they need cash maybe below dealer trade-in.  And remember these sellers aren't dealing with 100s let alone 10 buyers.  You drive the car for 3-4 years.  Maybe it is $7-10K.  But now you will get much much closer to book price because there will be far more buyers in this range. "There are many paths to success, but they all begin with education. You made the first big step just by visiting here. We have 17,000 questions, arranged by tag so you can view those on a given topic. You can sort by votes to see the ones that have the best member acceptance.  I'll agree with Ben that one of the best ones is ""The correct order of investing."" We both offered answers there, and that helps address a big chunk of your issue.  The book recommendations are fine, you'll quickly find that each author has his/her own slant or focus on a certain approach. For example, one financial celebrity (note - in the US, there are private advisors, usually with credentials of some sort, there are those who work for brokers and also offers help, there are financial bloggers (I am one), and there are those who are on the radio or TV who may or may not have any credentials) suggests that credit cards are to be avoided. The line in another answer here, ""You're not going to get rich earning 1% on a credit card,"" is a direct quote of one such celebrity. I disputed that in my post ""I got rich on credit card points!"" The article is nearly 2 years old, the account accumulating the rewards has recently passed $34,000. This sum of money is more wealth than 81% of people in the world have.  The article was a bit tongue in cheek (sarcastic) but it made a point. A young person should get a credit card, a good one, with no fee, and generous rewards. Use the card to buy only what you can pay back that month. At year end, I can download all my spending. The use of the card helps, not hinders, the budgeting process, and provides a bit of safety with its guarantees and theft protection.  Your question really has multiple facets. If these answers aren't helpful enough, I suggest you ask a new question, but focus on one narrow issue. ""Paying off debt"" ""Getting organized"" ""Saving"" ""Budgeting"" all seem to be part of your one question here." "Debt cripples you, it weighs you down and keeps you from living your life the way you want.  Debt prevents you from accomplishing your goals, limits your ability to ""Do"" what you want, ""Have"" what you want, and ""Be"" who you want to be, it constricts your opportunities, and constrains your charity. As you said,  Graduated in May from school.  Student loans are coming due here in January.  Bought a new car recently. The added monthly expenses have me concerned that I am budgeting my money correctly. Awesome! Congratulations.  You need to develop a plan to repay the student loans.  Buying a (new) car before you have planned you budget may have been premature. I currently am spending around 45-50% of my monthly (net)income to cover all   my expenses and living. The left over is pretty discretionary, but things   like eating dinner outside the house and expenses that are abnormal would   come out of this.  My question is what percentage is a safe amount to be   committing to expenses on a monthly basis? Great!  Plan 40-50% for essentials, and decide to spend under 20-30% for lifestyle.  Be frugal here and you could allocate 30-40% for financial priorities. Budget - create a budget divided into three broad categories, control your spending and your life. Goals - a Goal is a dream with a plan. Organize your goals into specific items with timelines, and steps to progress to your goals. You should have three classes of goals, what you want to ""Have"", what you want to ""Do"", and who you want to ""Be""; Ask yourself, what is important to you. Then establish a timeline to achieve each goal.  You should place specific goals or steps into three time blocks, Near (under 3-6 months), medium (under 12 months), and Long (under 24 months).  It is ok to have longer term plans, but establish steps to get to those goals, and place those steps under one of these three timeframes. Example, Good advice I have heard includes keeping housing costs under 25%, keeping vehicle costs under 10%, and paying off debt quickly.  Some advise 10-20% for financial priorities, but I prefer 30-40%.  If you put 10% toward retirement (for now), save 10-20%, and pay 10-20% toward debt, you should make good progress on your student loans." "So you are off to a really good start.  Congratulations on being debt free and having a nice income. Being an IT contractor can be financially rewarding, but also have some risks to it much like investing.  With your disposable income I would not shy away from investing in further training through sites like PluralSite or CodeSchool to improve weak skills.  They are not terribly expensive for a person in your situation.  If you were loaded down with debt and payments, the story would be different. Having an emergency fund will help you be a good IT contractor as it adds stability to your life.  I would keep  £10K or so in a boring savings account.  Think of it not as an investment, but as insurance against life's woes.  Having such a fund allows you to go after a high paying job you might fail at, or invest with impunity.   I would encourage you to take an intermediary step:  Moving out on your own.  I would encourage renting before buying even if it is just a room in someone else's home.  I would try to be out of the house in less than 3 months.  Being on your own helps you mature in ways that can only be accomplished by being on your own.  It will also reduce the culture shock of buying your own home or entering into an adult relationship. I would put a minimum of £300/month in growth stock mutual funds.  Keeping this around 15% of your income is a good metric.  If available you may want to put this in tax favored retirement accounts.  (Sorry but I am woefully ignorant of UK retirement savings).  This becomes your retire at 60 fund.  (Starting now, you can retire well before 68.)  For now stick to an index fund, and once it gets to 25K, you may want to look to diversify. For the rest of your disposable income I'd invest in something safe and secure.  The amount of your disposable income will change, presumably, as you will have additional expenses for rent and food.  This will become your buy a house fund.  This is something that should be safe and secure.  Something like a bond fund, money market, dividend producing stocks, or preferred stocks.   I am currently doing something like this and have 50% in a savings account, 25% in a ""Blue chip index fund"", and 25% in a preferred stock fund.  This way you have some decent stability of principle while also having some ability to grow.   Once you have that built up to about 12K and you feel comfortable you can start shopping for a house.  You may want to be at the high end of your area, so you should try and save at least 10%; or, you may want to be really weird and save the whole thing and buy your house for cash.  If you are still single you may want to rent a room or two so your home can generate income.   Here in the US there can be other ways to generate income from your property.  One example is a home that has a separate area (and room) to park a boat.  A boat owner will pay some decent money to have a place to park their boat and there is very little impact to the owner.  Be creative and perhaps find a way where a potential property could also produce income. Good luck, check back in with progress and further questions! Edit:  After some reading, ISA seem like a really good deal." I learned most of this stuff from 3 textbooks in school probably totaling $900 between the 3. I imagine you don't want to spend the cash on that. I would suggest finding a source online. A lot of the surface level stuff you are looking for can be found online on websites like Investopedia. They are a great resource and are free usually.