Who can I get to help me roll my 401(k) into an IRA when I live overseas?
It is typically very easy to roll a 401(k) into an IRA.  Companies that provide IRA's are very experienced with it, and I would expect that they will take your calls from overseas. You will likely be able to do it over the internet without using a phone at all. Just open an IRA with any brokerage company (Scottrade, Vanguard, Fidelity, Schwab, Ameritrade, etc.) and follow instructions to roll your 401(k) into it.  Most likely they will need your signature, but usually a scan of a form you have filled out will do.  Be sure to have information on your 401(k) provider, including your account number there, on hand.  These companies are all very reputable and this is not a difficult transaction. There's really no downside to rolling into an IRA.  401(k) plans usually have more limited options and/or worse fee structures and are frequently harder to work with, as you have observed. This is more of a general answer about your situation than a specific answer to your question.  You might consider getting a SIP telephone number based in the US, or an even easier to use IP based phone number. That way you can use it through your Internet connection and make eaiser calls to US companies that you still have a business relationship with.
I moved from contributing 10% to maxing as my salary rose over the course of three years after graduation.  Because of my raises, my monthly take home still increased, so it was a pretty painless way to increase my 401(k) contribution and also avoid lifestyle inflation. That said, I would not do it if you have any credit card debt, school loans, or an auto loan.  Pay that off first.  Then work on maxing the 401(k).  Personally I rate owning a home behind that, but that's partially because I'm in an area where the rent ratios are barely on the side of buying, so I don't find buying to be a pressing matter. One thing to investigate is if your company offers a Roth 401(k) option.  It's a nice option where you can go Roth without worrying about income limits.  My personal experience does not include a Roth IRA because when I still qualified for one I didn't know much about them, and now that I know about them I have the happy issue of not qualifying. "From your description, it seems that you should have $75k of ""basis"" (i.e. after-tax amount) in your Traditional IRA. (As others have mentioned in comments, you might have had to report this in the year it was rolled over. I will assume that you will have figured this out.) Having after-tax amounts in a Traditional IRA is tricky as you usually can't choose to take out only the after-tax portion. Withdrawals as well as conversions to Roth IRA must be ""pro-rata"", which means that the amount of pre-tax and post-tax money in the withdrawal or conversion follows the same proportion as in the IRA overall. So say 7.5% of your Traditional IRA is after-tax, and the other 92.5% is pre-tax, that means any withdrawal will consist of pre-tax and post-tax in those proportions. So e.g. if you withdraw or convert $1000, $75 will be post-tax and $925 will be pre-tax. So any withdrawal or conversion will consist overwhelmingly of pre-tax amounts, which will be taxed, and you may not want that at this time. There is one way to separate the pre-tax and post-tax amounts in a Traditional IRA, but it involves having an active 401(k) (which I doubt you have at this point as you're retired). Some 401(k) plans allow people to rollover funds from Traditional IRA into it. If they allow this, then you can use it to ""siphon"" only pre-tax money from the Traditional IRA, as IRS does not allow rollover of post-tax money into a 401(k). This way you can rollover the entire pre-tax amount of the Traditional IRA into the Traditional 401(k), leaving behind only after-tax money in the Traditional IRA, which you can immediately convert to Roth IRA with no tax." "GreenMatt - this is a good question, and a question I have asked about whether to invest in a Roth IRA, or a traditional IRA. This is my take on the picture, I'm not sure about your tax situation and how much you'd have to pay for each conversion you did, whether you have extra money to pay those taxes, etc. In my opinion I don't think it would be a good idea to use your 401(k) principal to pay taxes, but to have the extra money to pay these when rolling over so you don't lose any interest, especially since you're near the ""end"" of your ""snowball"" effect with interest in your retirement account. Here is a resource to consider. Also, another thing to consider that I don't really see much of on here is inflation. If you're going to be in the same tax bracket as you are now, and if whatever you're contributing to your 401(k) or traditional IRA is NOT bumping you down in the 15% bracket, then I would suggest doing a ROTH IRA. I say this because to me, when I retire, I would have rather paid my taxes throughout the years (I'm 23 and in 25% marginal tax bracket) in a ROTH IRA and pay nothing when I'm withdrawing in 30 years, factors people forget to consider are that the Cost of Living is going to be MUCH MUCH higher for me down the road, and the cost of sending a child to school is going to be much higher as well. Since your child is young, consider this site for the cost of a college education for your child. This is comparing the average cost of education for someone attending college in 2015 versus 2033 (a child born IN 2015). While this seems drastic, and there could be a lot of different things that happen by that time, it's a decent illustration. While the website provided certainly isn't validated by the DoE, I have read multiple articles about this, and they are all very similar. Again, other things could happen between now and your child's college career, but if college becomes ""free"" we're paying for it, and if it's not free and raises at historical rates you're paying for it. I also don't really want to comment on what is going to happen with taxes over the years, I'm not sure where you live (I'm in the U.S.), but IMO I believe they either A) won't change or B) will raise slightly. As far as SS goes, I think it's fair and definitely more than reasonable to not expect SS in retirement. I'm definitely not counting on it." One possibility that I use: I set up an LLC and get paid through that entity. Then I set up a payroll service through Bank of America and set up direct deposit so that it is free.  I pay myself at 70% of my hourly rate based on the number of hours I work, and the payroll service does all the calculations for me and sets up the payments to the IRS.  Typically money is left over in my business account. When tax time rolls around, I have a W2 from my LLC and a 1099 from the company I work for. I put the W2 into my personal income, and for the business  I enter the revenue on the 1099 and the payroll expenses from paying myself; the left over in the business account is taxed as ordinary income. Maybe it's overkill, but setting up the LLC makes it possible to (a) set up a solo 401(k) and put up to $51k away tax-free, and (b) I can write off business expenses more easily. You can probably roll it over into the new company's 401k too, so just talk to your HR rep there.  I set up a separate Vangard IRA so when I changejobs or anything, I just dump my investments into that account and don't have to worry about keep track of them all over the place. My former accountant, used to provide this service as part of him doing my taxes.  During the off season, he would provide a planning session and he would review strategies that I might look into.  Since he did not make any money off of providing investments, he was about as unbiased as one could be.  However, something like that might not be enough for you guys. You could go with someone online, Scottrade is going into the business of providing advice, as well as Charles Schwab or Fidelity, but you might need someone more personal. In that case, I would use my network.  Talk to people, ask who they use, like, and respect.  I would say it is very easy to find mediocre investment advisers, the good ones are hard. I would look for one that teaches.  It is very easy to tell someone what to do, much harder to teach them what is the right thing.   One thing that is easy about your situation:  Planning to buy a home.  Put money for a down payment in a high interest savings account.  What I mean by high interest, is they still pay almost nothing.  You can't really make a mistake.  If you find one with .5% instead of .85%, what is the real difference after 5 years?  About $180? What I'm going to write is far too long for a comment, so I'll put it here even though its not an answer. That's the closest thing to an answer you'll get here, I'm afraid. I'm not a tax professional, and you cannot rely on anything I say, as you undoubtedly know. But I'll give you some pointers. Things you should be researching when you have international clients: Check if Sec. 402 can apply to the pension funds, if so your life may become much easier. If not, and you have no idea what you're doing - consider referring the client elsewhere. You can end up with quite a liability suit if you make a mistake here, because the penalties on not filing the right piece of paper are enormous. I am not going to discuss legality, because with family members you are able to give a lot of guidance and assistance without running into legal issues.  The biggest problem is that when they transfer the funds to you and you invest the money, all the tax rates and tax limits are determined by your situation; plus you have more investments than you should have so you hit those limits and brackets quicker. For example: In the United states a person can put $5,500 or $6,500 into a IRA or Roth IRA each year. If you combine the funds for three with your funds then you are giving up three quarters of the amount that you can invest in that type of account. The decision regarding Roth or not depends on age and income level. But now their decision is related to what is best based on your situation. The ability to even deduct IRA deposits would be based on your situation. Of course for taxable accounts the tax rate is determined by your income, not theirs. If they want you to have the ability to make investment decisions for them, then power of attorney is the way to go. The money is deposited in their name, and all the rules and tax rates are determined by their situation. You make sure they have all the information they need to login and review the accounts, but you make the all the moves within and between accounts.