Online Personal finance with QIF import
"Unfortunately I don't think any of the online personal finance applications will do what you're asking. Most (if not all) online person finance software uses a combination of partnerships with the banks themselves and ""screen scraping"" to import your data. This simplifies things for the user but is typically limited to whenever the service was activated. Online personal finance software is still relatively young and doesn't offer the depth available in a desktop application (yet). If you are unwilling to part with historical data you spent years accumulating you are better off with a desktop application. Online Personal Finance Software Pros Cons Desktop Personal Finance Software Pros Cons In my humble opinion the personal finance software industry really needs a hybrid approach. A desktop application that is synchronized with a website. Offering the stability and tools of a desktop application with the availability of a web application."
"Here I thought I would not ever answer a question on this site and boom first ten minutes.  First and foremost I am in the automotive industry, specifically one of our core competencies is finance department management consulting and the sales process both for the sale of the care as well  as  the financial transaction. First and foremost new vehicle gross profits are nowhere near 20% for the dealership.  In an entry level vehicle like say a Toyota Corolla there is only a  few hundreds of dollars in markup from invoice to M.S.R.P.  There is also something called holdback that dealers get for achieving certain goals such as sales volume. These are usually pretty easy to hit. As a matter of fact I have never heard of a dealer not getting the hold back on a deal.  This hold back is there to cover overhead for the car, the cost of getting it ready to sell, having a lot to park it on, making it ready for delivery, offset some of the cost of sales labor  etc.  Most dealerships consider the holdback portion of the invoice to not be part of the deal when it comes to  negotiations.  Certain brands such as KIA and Chrysler have something called ""Dealer Cash"" these payouts are usually stair stepped according to volume and vary by dealer, location, past history, how the guys at the factory feel that day and any number of combinations.  Then there is CSI or Customer Service Index payments, these payments are usually made every 1/4 are on the Parts Statement not the Sales Doc and while they effect the dealers bottom line they almost never affect the sales managers or sales persons payroll so they are not considered a part of the cost of the car.  They are however extremely important to  the dealer and this is  why after you have your new car they want you to bring in your survey for a free oil change or something.  IF you are going to give a bad survey they want to throw it away and not send it in, if you are going to give a good survey they want to  make sure you fill it out correctly.  This is because lets say they ask you on a scale of 1-10 how was your sales person and you put a 9 that is a failing score. Dumb I know but that is how every factory CSI score system I have seen worked.  According to NADA the average New Vehicle gross profit including hold back and dealer cash is around $1000.00.  No where near 20%.  Dealerships would love it if they made 20% on your new F250 Supercrew Diesel at around $50,000.00.  One last thing there is something on the invoice called Wholesale Finance Reserve.  This is the amount of money the factory forwards to the Dealership to offset the cost of financing vehicle on the floor plan so they can have it for you to look at before you buy.  This is usually equal to around 3 months of interest and while you might buy a vehicle that has been on the lot for 2 days they have plenty that have been there much longer so this equals out in a fair to middling run store. General Mangers that know what they are doing can make this really pad their net profit to statement. On to incentives, there are basically 3 kinds.  Cash to customer in the form of rebates, Dealer Cash in the form of incentives to dealerships based on volume or the undesirability of a vehicle, and incentive rates or Subvented leases.  The rates are pretty self explanatory as they advertised as such (example 0% for 60 Months).  Subvented Leased are harder to figure out and usually not disclosed as they are hard to explain and also a source of increased profit.  Subvented leases are usually powered by lower cost of money called a money factor (think of it as an interest rate) that is discounted from the lease company or a subsidized residual.  Subsidized residuals are virtually verboten on domestic vehicles due to their poor resell values.  A subsidized residual works like this, you buy a Toyota Camry and the ALG (automotive lease guide) says it has a residual at 36 months of 48%.  Well Toyota Motor Credit says we will give you a subvented residual of 60% basically subsidizing a 2% increase in residual.  Since they do not expect to be able to sell the car at auction for that amount they have to set aside the 2% as a future expense.  What does this mean to you, it means a lower payment.  Also a good rule of thumb if you are told a money factor by your salesperson to figure out what the interest rate is just multiply it by 2400.  So if a money factor is give of .00345 you know your actual interest rate is a little bit lower than 8.28% (illustration purposes only money factors are much lower than that right now). So how does this save you money well a lease is basically calculated by multiplying the MSRP by the residual and then subtracting that amount from the ""Capitalized Cost"" which is the Price paid for the car - trade in + payoff + TT&L-Rebate-Down Payment.  That is the depreciation.  Then you divide that number by the term of the loan and you have the depreciation amount.  So if you have 20K CC and 10K R your D = 10K / 36 = 277 monthly payment.  For the rest of the monthly payment you add (I think been a long time since I did this with out a computer) the Residual plus the CC for $30,000 * MF of .00345 = 107 for a total payment of 404 ish.  This is not completely accurate but you can use it to  make sure a salesperson/finance person is not trying to do one thing and  say another as so often happens on leases. 0% how the  heck do  they make money at that, well its simple.  First in 2008 the Fed made all the ""Captive"" lenders into actual banks instead of whatever they were before.  So now they have access to the Fed's discounting window which with todays monetary policies make it almost free money.  In the past these lenders had to go through all kinds of hoops to raise funds and  securitize loans even for super prime credit.  Those days are essentially over.  Now they get their short term money just like Bank of America does.  Eventually they still bundle these loans and sell them.  So in the short term YOU pay for the 0% by giving up part or all of your rebate.  This is really important DO NOT GIVE up your rebate for 0% unless it makes sense to do so.  When you can get the money at 2.5% and get a $7000.00 rebate (customer cash) on that F250 or 0% take the cash.  First of all make the finance guy/gal show you the the difference in total cost they can do do this using the federal truth in lending disclosures on a finance contract.  Secondly how long will you keep the vehicle?  If you come out ahead by say $1500 by taking the lower rate but you usually trade out every three years this is not going to work.  Also and this is important if you are involved in a situation with a total loss like a stolen car or even worse a bad wreck before the breakeven point you lose that price break.  Finally on judging what is right for you, just know that future value of the vehicle on for resell or trade-in will take into effect all of these past rebates and value the car accordingly.  So if a vehicle depreciates 20% a year for the first 3 years the starting point will essentially be $7000.00 less than you actually paid,  using rough numbers. How does this help the dealers and car companies?  Well while a dealer struggles to make money on new cars the factory makes all of their money on the  new cars and the new car financing.  While your individual loan might lose money that money is offset by the loss of rebate and I think Ford does actually pay Ford Motor Credit Company the difference in the rate.  The most important thing is what happens later FMCC now has 2500 loans with people with perfect credit.  They can now use those loans to budle with people with not so perfect credit that they financed at 12%-18% and buy that money with interest rates in the 2%-3% range.  Well that is a hell of a lot of profit.  'How does it help the dealership, well the more super prime credit they have in their portfolio the more subprime credit the banks will buy for them.  This means they have more loans originated that are more profitable for them.  Say you come in for the 0% but have 590 credit score, they get FMCC to buy the deal because they have a good portfolio and you win because the dealer gets to buy the money at say 9% and sell it to you at say 12% making the spread.  You win there because you actually qualified for a rate of around 18% with a subprime company like Santander or Capital One (yes that capital one) so  you save a ton on your overall cost of the car. Any dealership that is half way well run makes as much or money in the finance and insurance office than the rest of the dealership.  When you factor in what a good F&I Director can do to get deals done with favorable terms that really goes up.  Think about that the guys sitting a desk drinking coffee making more than the  service department guys all put together. Well that was long winded but there I broke down the car business for whoever read this far." "I speak from a position of experience, My BS and MS are both in Comp Sci. I know very little about loans or finances. That is very unfortunate as you are obviously an intelligent human being.  Perhaps this is a good time to pause your formal education and get educated in personal finance.  To me, it is that important. I study computer science, and am thus confident that I will be able to find work after I finish school. This kind of attitude can lead to trouble.  You will likely have a high salary, but that does not always translate into prosperity.  Personal finance is more about behavior then mathematics.  I currently work with people that have high salaries in a low cost of living area.  Some have lost homes due to foreclosure some are very limited in their options because of high student loan balances.  Some are millionaires without hitting the IPO/startup lotto.  The difference is behavior. It's possible that someone in my family will be able to cosign and help me out with this loan. This is indicative of lack of knowledge and poor financial behavior.  This kind of thing can lead to strained relationships to the point where people don't talk to each other.  Never co-sign for anyone, and if you value the relationship with a person never ask them to co-sign. I'll be working as a TA again for a $1000 stipend. Yikes!  Why in the world would you work for 1K when you need 4K?  You should find a way to earn 6K this semester so you can save some and put some toward the loans you already acquired.  Accepting this kind of situation ""raises red flags"" on your attitude towards personal finance.  And yes it is possible, you can earn that waiting tables and if you can find a part time programming gig you can make a lot more then that.  Consider working as a TA and wait tables until you find that first programming gig. I am just about done with my undergraduate degree, and will be starting graduate school at the same university next semester. To me this is a recipe for failure in most cases.  You have expended all your financing options to date and are planning to go backwards even more.  Why not get out of school with your BS, and go to work?  You can save up some of your MS tuition and most companies will provide tuition reimbursement.   Computer Science/Software Engineering can be a fickle market.  Right now things are going crazy and times are really good.  However that was not always the case during my career and unlikely for yours.  For example, Just this year I bypassed my highest rate of pay that occurred in 2003.  I was out of work most of 2004, and for part of 2005 I actually made less then when I was working while in college.  In 2009 my company cut our salaries by 5%, but the net cost to me was more like a 27% cut.  In 2001 I worked as a contractor for a company that had a 10% reduction in full time employees, yet they kept us contractors working.   Recently I talked with a recruiter about a position doing J2EE, which is what I am doing now.  It required a high level security clearance which is not an easy thing to get.  The rub was that it was located in a higher cost of living area and only paid about 70% of what I am making now.  They required more and paid less, but such is the market.  You need to learn about these things! Good luck." "The other answers demonstrate that you'll receive a paltry amount of money in two days, by comparing to things like wages, the cost of electricity, etc. But the real point is you're incurring risk by paying late, in particular, the realistic risk of the post office messing up. That's not worth it, and it's this kind of overhead that people usually mess up when trying to optimize their finances. (More commonly, it's ""I can save 5 cents by doing this, but there's about a 400% chance I'm going to mess everything else up since I don't have infinite mental bandwidth). You asked a good and important question, but for your actual situation I must emphasize it's terrible personal finance to risk dropping your books for a superficial optimization." I just want to clarify that accounting and finance are two very different fields and if you're looking into finance you should get a finance degree, not an accounting degree. It is much more versatile. Finance is forward-looking, accounting is backward-looking.  If you want to take online courses then take them from a reputable state school which offers them. Don't get a degree from an online-only school; even if they aren't a scam, you will have a degree from an online-only school. I used XE trade once several years ago. I found them quite easy to use after the slightly fiddly account setup process (needed for security/anti-money laundering I think). I trusted them because I'd been using their online FX rates for a long time. I can't really comment on the specific questions you ask though as this was a long time ago and I haven't needed one since. I use mint.com for tracking my finances.  It works on mobile phones, tablets, and in a browser.  If you don't mind the initial hassle of putting in the credentials you use to access your account online, you'll find that you're able to build a comprehensive picture of the state of your finances relatively quickly. It does a great job of separating the various types of financial transactions you engage in, and also lets you customize those classifications with tags.  It's ad-supported, so there's no out-of-pocket cost to you, and it doesn't preclude you from using the personal finance software you already have on your phone. "UPDATE: Unfortunately Citibank have removed the ""standard"" account option and you have to choose the ""plus"" account, which requires a minimum monthly deposit of 1800 sterling and two direct debits. Absolutely there is.  I would highly recommend Citibank's Plus Current Account.  It's a completely free bank account available to all UK residents. http://www.citibank.co.uk/personal/banking/bankingproducts/currentaccounts/sterling/plus/index.htm There are no monthly fees and no minimum balance requirements to maintain.  Almost nobody in the UK has heard of it and I don't know why because it's extremely useful for anyone who travels or deals in foreign currency regularly. In one online application you can open a Sterling Current Account and Deposit Accounts in 10 other foreign currencies (When I opened mine around 3 years ago you could only open up to 7 (!) accounts at any one time). Citibank provide a Visa card, which you can link to any of your multi currency accounts via a phone call to their hotline (unfortunately not online, which frequently annoys me - but I guess you can't have everything).  For USD and EUR you can use it as a Visa debit for USD/EUR purchases, for all other currencies you can't make debit card transactions but you can make ATM withdrawals without incurring an FX conversion. Best of all for your case, a free USD cheque book is also available: http://www.citibank.co.uk/personal/banking/international/eurocurrent.htm You can fund the account in sterling and exchange to USD through online banking.  The rates are not as good as you would get through an FX broker like xe.com but they're not terrible either. You can also fund the account by USD wire transfer, which is free to deposit at Citibank - but the bank you issue the payment from will likely charge a SWIFT fee so this might not be worth it unless the amount is large enough to justify the fee. If by any chance you have a Citibank account in the US, you can also make free USD transfers in/out of this account - subject to a daily limit." All banks allow online banking. HSBC is reputed the most international traditional one.  That said, opening a bank account in a 100% online bank would get you to near 0 cost, and is probably the preferred option. Every online bank is very similar to each other, so I won't make any recommandation here. Exemples are ing-direct, boursorama, Fortuneo. I'm afraid none offer english service, and it might be difficult to get in line with a decent english speaker. All theses banks will likely offer a gold/premier mastercard/visa, so travelling will not be an issue. The fees should be <2% for foreign currencies (it vary slightly), and <3€ if you use the ATM in none euro ones.