What are the typical repayment plans for Credit Cards in the United States?
"In the U.S., when you receive your credit card bill each month there's a ""minimum payment amount."" That minimum payment is usually the greater of $25 or 1% of the new balance on the card plus new interest and fees. As long as you pay the minimum payment amount, you can pay as much as you want each month. Note, in your example, you would be required to pay more than $1000 to pay off the balance, as interest would accrue each month on the unpaid principal. How much more is dependent on the interest rate of the card." "It is called ""Credit card installments"" or ""Equal pay installments"", and I am not aware of them being widely used in the USA. While in other countries they are supported by banks directly (right?), in US you may find this option only in some big stores like home improvement stores, car dealerships, cell phone operators (so that you can buy a new phone) etc. Some stores allow 0% financing for, say, 12 months which is not exactly the same as installments but close, if you have discipline to pay $250 each month and not wait for 12 months to end. Splitting the big payment in parts means that the seller gets money in parts as well, and it adds risks of customer default, introduces debt collection possibility etc. That's why it's usually up to the merchants to support it - bank does not care in this case, from the bank point of view the store just charges the same card another $250 every month. In other countries banks support this option directly, I think, taking over or dividing the risk with the merchants. This has not happened in US. There is a company SplitIt which automates installments if stores want to support it but again, it means stores need to agree to it. Here is a simple article describing how credit cards work: https://www.usbank.com/credit-cards/how-credit-cards-work.html In general, if you move to US, you are unlikely to be able to get a regular credit card because you will not have any ""credit history"" which is a system designed to track each customer ability to get & pay off debt. The easiest way to build the history - request ""secured credit card"", which means you have to give the bank money up front and then they will give you a credit card with a credit limit equal to that amount. It's like a ""practice credit card"". You use it for 6-12 months and the bank will report your usage to credit bureaus, establishing your ""credit score"". After that you should be able to get your money back and convert your secured card into a regular credit card. Credit history can be also built by paying rent and utilities but that requires companies who collect money to report the payments to credit bureaus and very few do that. As anything else in US, there are some businesses which help to solve this problem for extra money."
If credit scoring works in the UK like it does in the US, then I think the fact that you own+use a credit card and pay off your everyday expenses will give you perfectly good credit.  Just keep doing what you're doing. I have seen people in the United States with very high credit scores based solely upon owning & occasionally using a credit card, paid in full and on time every month. "A few points Yes, as a rule, it is better to pay down high interest accounts first, as this will yield lower cost in the long run. Credit card balance transfers usually come at a cost (typically something like ""3% or $50, whichever is higher"").  So instead of transferring the debt, maybe try purchasing items with your card instead of cash, and using the cash to pay down the debt.  This has the added benefit of giving you points or cash back on the card (typically you won't get these for a balance transfer). Caveat: Only do this if you are very disciplined!  It is very easy to run up high CC balances and forget to save the cash. You should leave a bit of unused credit line on your credit cards in case of emergencies.  I'm doubting you can use your high interest loans in the same way." "Credit Cards typically charge interest on money you borrow from them.  They work in one of two ways. Most cards will not charge you any interest if you pay the balance in full each month.  You typically have around 25 days (the ""grace period"") to pay that off.  If that's the case, then you will use your credit card without any cost to yourself. However, if you do not pay it in full by that point, then you will owe 19.9% interest on the balance, typically from the day you charged the payment (so, retroactively).  You'll also immediately begin owing interest on anything else you charge - typically, even if you do then pay the next month the entire balance on time.  It's typically a ""daily"" rate, which means that the annual rate (APR) is divided into its daily rate (think the APR divided by 365 - though it's a bit different than that, since it's the rate which would be 19.9% annualized when you realize interest is paid on interest).   Say in your case it's 0.05% daily - that means, each day, 0.05% is added to your balance due.  If you charged $1000 on day one and never made a payment (but never had to - ignore penalties here), you'd owe $1199 at the end of the year, paying $199 interest (19.9*1000). Note that your interest is calculated on the daily balance, not on your actual credit limit - if you only charge $100, you'd owe $19.90 interest, not $199. Also note that this simplifies what they're actually doing.  They often use things like ""average daily balance"" calculations and such to work out actual interest charged; they tend to be similar to what I'm describing, but usually favor the bank a bit (or, are simpler to calculate). Finally: some credit cards do not have a grace period.  In the US, most do, but not all; in other countries it may be less common.  Some simply charge you interest from day one. As far as ""Standard Purchases"", that means buying services or goods.  Using your credit card for cash advances (i.e., receiving cash from an ATM), using those checks they mail you, or for cash-like purchases (for example, at a casino), are often under a different scheme; they may have the same rate, or a different rate.  They likely incur interest from the moment cash is produced (no grace period), and they may involve additional fees.  Never use cash advances unless you absolutely cannot avoid it." I think you got the message mixed up a little: Racking up big balances can hurt your scores, regardless of whether you pay your bills in full each month.   What's typically reported to the credit bureaus, and thus calculated into your scores, are the balances reported on your last statements. (That doesn't mean paying off your balances each month isn't financially smart -- it is -- just that the credit scores don't care.)   You typically can increase your scores by limiting your charges to 30% or less of a card's limit. -- from 7 Ways to Fix Your Credit Score In other words, ALWAYS pay off your balance if you can. But don't fill up your card to the max of your credit limit each month. i.e. if your credit limit is $5000, only spend $2000 each month. You also might want to see what sort of documentation the credit card company has. Companies can get pretty lazy sometimes about recordkeeping; there have been cases where banks tried to foreclose on a property but weren't able to produce documents establishing the mortgage. With your father dead, is there anything other than the credit card company's word that the debt is valid? Rule of thumb, the earlier you pay down your balance, the less interest you will accrue and the faster you will pay off the debt as a whole. But lets play with some real numbers here.  You cited $5000 balance and a $750 payment, but with various bills and things adding onto the balance over the course of a month. Now if your purchases and payments add up to the same number, you are in a losing game, so for the sake of argument I am going to say you are putting $500 + interest on the card each month and making a $750 payment.  We also need an interest rate to work with, I am going to use 1%/month and 30 day months to keep the math a bit easier to follow.   You basically have two choices in this scenario, you can pay 750 a month on the card, then use it to make your $500 in purchases/other payments over time as you suggest in your question.  Or you can pay $250, and hold back $500 to make those other payments directly without running them through the card, as has been suggested in some other answers. So let us compare the two... If I start the cycle at $5000, make a $250 payment on the first day of the cycle, then have no other activity, I will have a balance of $4750 for the month and accrue $47.50 in interest at the close of the cycle.  Balance going into the next period is now $4797.50.  Carry this out for a year, and your balance at the close of the 12th cycle is $2431.79, and $431.79 of your payments went to interest. By contrast, if you pay $750 at the start of the month, then add $100 back every 6 days so that you spend $500 over the course of the cycle. You will have an average daily balance of $4466.67, which results in $44.67 in interest charges being accrued at the end of the month.  This gives you a balance of $4794.67 going into the next cycle, putting you about $3 ahead of the previous method.  Push this pattern out for a year and your ending balance is 2395.86, with 395.86 going to interest.  Resulting in a savings of ~$36 over making the smaller payment and paying cash for your other expenses.  If this happens to be a rewards card, you also have gained whatever rewards benefit it gives you. This demonstrates that by the strict numbers game, the scenario you propose should come out a small but measurable distance ahead of making a smaller payment in order to avoid putting things back on the card.  So why do so many people adamantly advise you to not do this?   Most of it has to do with psychology and risk.  The cash method does not leave any room for you to over spend.  You have shredded or locked up the credit card so it can’t be used casually, and when you run out of cash, you can’t spend any more.  Which forces you to pay much closer attention to where your money is going.   When you are running things through the credit card, you generally don’t have that hard stop unless you are up against your credit limit, and even then most issuers are quite happy to let you go over and charge you extra fees for doing so.  So if you have this plan where you are intending to put $500 on the card in a month, then lose track of something you did early in the month, and inadvertently spend $800, you are digging yourself deeper into the hole instead of climbing your way out. There is also a risk in terms of income loss.  In the cash method, you no longer have the money to spend, and you are forced to make the hard decisions about where to allocate what you do have, making you much more likely to cut back on luxury items to preserve the necessities.  In the card method, it is easy to say “eh, the card has room, I can catch up again later” and not realize the mess you are causing yourself until you are in way over your head.  I personally have run all my bills through a credit card in the past so that I could have one single payment to make.  Then I was unemployed for six months, and ended up moving before I found a new job.  Everything in between, including the move, went on the card.  Next thing I know I am carrying a balance of $15k where I used to always have it paid in full.  It took roughly 10 years, including several years of working strictly in cash, to get that back under control. I currently have a card that is carrying a balance, and I am running select expenses (such as fuel and food) through it while I whittle the balance back down.  Most of my main bills are still paid directly from cash, specifically so that I don’t fall back into the same trap I did before.  Even so, there were several months in the past year where the balance was creeping up instead of down, because we were not paying that close of attention to our spending.   Then my wife lost her job, and it forced us to closely evaluate where our money was going.  We still run certain things through said card, but we are much stricter about it being only those select things, and the balance is trending down again.  The main reason we are still channeling those expenses that way is because this is a cash back reward card, and we will be getting roughly $1000 back here in a couple more months. "As others have said: unless you can find someone willing to make a zero-interest loan, the answer is no.  If you can figure out how to turn a ""0% for first N months"" credit card offer onto a leveraged investment or something of that sort -- seems unlikely -- maybe." "And I'm reading through the pack of stuff  There should be a soft copy of Terms and Conditions. If so, please put up a link. Generally 0% APR comes with some strings attached. The literature on the Bank of America site shows 0% APR only for Balance Transfers done with 60 days.  On one of the comparison sites; the Bank of America card shows 0% only for balance transfers and purchases done in first 60 days. 0% Introductory APR for 12 billing cycles for purchases AND for any balance transfers made in the first 60 days, then, 13.24% - 23.24% Variable APR. 3% fee (min $10) applies to balance transfers. Which means that if you spend say $200 in first 2 months, you can repay this $200 in next 12 months at 0% APR. However if you spend another $100 in 3 month, this should be paid in full along with a portion of $200; else interest would start for all of $300. Generally 0% APR don't make sense as there are lots of hidden terms and conditions and the real benefit may not be that great.  Edits: The Literature looks quite confusing. On the Main Page it says; Introductory APR   0% for 12 billing cycles   Applies to purchases and to any balance transfers made within 60 days of opening your account This would mean say you do a Balance transfer within 60 days, of 120 and say you make purchases with 60 days of 120. Total liability is 240.  Scenario 1: Assume you do not use this card. Then you can safely keep making payments of 20 per month for next one year. Scenario 2: In 3rd month, you swipe for 100 more. Now the Total Due will be 100+20. If you make the payment of 120, then fine. If you make a payment of only say 50; Then the interest will be calculated for [240-40, payments for 2 months+50 of current month]; i.e. on 250. However the detailed ""Terms of Conditions"" seem to limit this only to Balance Transfer of 120 in first 60 days and not to any purchases in first 60 days. With Terms so vague, my suggestion, don't get this card for these benefits. Get this if you need a regular card."