How much money should I put on a house?
Before doing anything else: you want a lawyer involved right from the beginning, to make sure that something reasonable happens with the house if one of you dies or leaves. Seriously, you'll both be safer and happier if it's all explicit. How much you should put on the house is not the right question. Houses don't sell instantly, and while you can access some of their stored value by borrowing against them that too can take some time to arrange. You need to have enough operating capital for normal finances, plus an emergency reserve to cover unexpectedly being out of work or sudden medical expenses. There are suggestions for how much that should be in answers to other questions. After that, the question is whether you should really be buying a house at all. It isn't always a better option than renting and (again as discussed in answers to other questions) there are ongoing costs in time and upkeep and taxes and insurance. If you're just thinking about the financials, it may be better to continue to rent and to invest the savings in the market. The time to buy a house is when you have the money and a reliable income, plan not to move for at least five years, really want the advantages of more elbow room and the freedom to alter the place to suit your needs (which will absorb more money)...  As far as how much to put down vs. finance: you really want a down payment of at least 20%. Anything less than that, and the bank will insist you pay for mortgage insurance, which is a significant expense. Whether you want to pay more than that out of your savings depends on how low an interest rate you can get (this is a good time in that regard) versus how much return you are getting on your investments, combined with how long you want the mortgage to run and how large a mortgage payment you're comfortable committing to. If you've got a good investment plan in progress and can get a mortgage which charges a lower interest rate than your investments can reasonably be expected to pay you, putting less down and taking a larger mortgage is one of the safer forms of leveraged investing... IF you're comfortable with that. If the larger mortgage hanging over you is going to make you uncomfortable,  this might not be a good answer for you. It's a judgement call. I waited until i'd been in out of school about 25 years before I was ready to buy a house. Since i'd been careful with my money over that time,  I had enough in investments that I could have bought the house for cash. Or I could have gone the other way and financed 80% of it for maximum leverage. I decided that what I was comfortable with was financing 50%. You'll have to work thru the numbers and decide what you are comfortable with. But I say again, if buying shared property you need a lawyer involved. It may be absolutely the right thing to do ... but you want to make sure everything is fully spelled out... and you'll also want appropriate terms written into your wills. (Being married would carry some automatic assumptions about joint ownership and survivor rights... but even then it's safer to make it all explicit.) Edit: Yes, making a larger down payment may let you negotiate a lower interest rate on the loan. You'll have to find out what each bank is willing to offer you, or work with a mortgage broker who can explore those options for you. I Usually would not say this but if you can just put down 20% I would do that and get a 15 year mortgage.  The rates are so low on 15 year mortgage that you should be able to make more than the 3% in the market per year and make some money.  I wouldn't be surprised if for 1/2 of the term of your loan you will be able to make that just in interest.  Basically I have done this for my house and my rental properties.  So I have put my money where my mouth is on this.   I have made over 9% each of the last three years which has made me $12,000 dollars above and beyond over what I would have paid in interest per year.  So it a decision that net me $36,000 for doing nothing.  Now the market is going to be down some of those years so lets see how it works out but I have history on my side.  Its not about timing the market its about time in the market.  And 15 years in the market is a pretty safe bet albeit not as safe as just dumping you money in the mortgage.
Am I eligible for the tax exemption if yes then under which section.  Generally Personal loans are not eligible for tax exemption. Only housing loans from qualified institutions are eligible for tax deduction. As per the income tax act; The house should be in your name. The home loans taken from recognised institutions are fully qualified under section 24B and 80C. This means you can claim Interest exemption under 24B and Principal repayment under 80C. The Act also specifies that loan can be taken from friends/relatives for construction of property and will be eligible for Interest exemption under 24B only. The principal will not be eligible for exemption under 80C. Read the FAQ from Income Tax India. There has to be certificate showing how much interest was paid on the said loan. Further there should be records/receipts on how the money was spent. There is difference of opinion amongst CA. It is best you take a professional advise. The main point to consider is that your payments toward your own home replace your rent. Any house or apartment you buy will have changes in value; the value is generally going slowly up, but there is a lot of noise, and you may be in a low phase at any time, and for a long time. So seeing it as an investment is not any better than buying share or funds, and it has a much worse liquidity (= you cannot as easily make it to cash when you want to), and not in parts either. However, if you buy for example a one-room apartment for 80000 with a 2% mortgage, and pay 2% interest = 1600 plus 1% principal = 800, for a total of 2400 per year = 200 per month, you are paying less than your current rent, plus you own it after 30 years. Even if it would be worth nothing after 30 years, you made a lot of money by paying half only every month, and it probably is not worthless. You need to be careful not to compare apples with oranges - if you buy a house for 200000 instead, your payments would be higher than your rent was, but you would be living in your house, not in a room. For most people, that is worth a lot. You need to put your own value to that; if you don't care to have a lot more space and freedom, the extra value is zero; if you like it, put a price to it. With current interest rates, it is probably a good idea for most people to buy a house that they can easily afford instead of paying rent. The usual rules should be considered - don't overstretch yourself, leave some security, etc. Generally, it is rather difficult to buy an affordable house instead of renting today and not saving a lot of money in the process, so I would say go for it. When I purchased my house I struggled with this same idea.  I felt sick to my stomach signing a contract stating how much money I now owe a bank.  However, the lawyer I was using put it in terms that eased the nausea a little (I still hate owing that much money - but it's a little more palatable).   His words, paraphrased: At the end of the day, you have to have a place to stay.  Your mortgage payment is replacing your rent except in this case, you're paying yourself instead of someone else.  You lose a little flexibility in being able to up and move with relative ease.  However, you've lived in apartments, you know that rent almost only goes up.  Your mortgage will not.   He wrote out some numbers and basically showed that everything evened out except mortgage payments will give you property as opposed to paying for someone else's property. To answer your question though - others have already stated - you'll get a better return in the stock market (usually).  But unless you're really really bad at real estate evaluation - you should make some money off your house when you decide to sell. "I take it you have nearly zero expenses, since you don't mention any savings and with your income you wouldn't have much left over for investing. At your level of income, any actual investing is either going to unwisely reduce your cash available should you need it (such as investment in mutual funds, which often have minimum investment periods of 2-6 months or more to avoid fees), or cost you a high percentage of your income in commissions (stock trading). So, I wouldn't recommend investing at all — yet. I find Dave Ramsey's baby steps to be very good general money management advice.  Here is how I would adapt the first three steps to your income and stage in life. Beyond this, Dave recommends saving for retirement, college (for kids) and paying off your house early.  These things are a little beyond your stage in life, but it would be good to start thinking about them. For you, I recommend following DJClayworth's advice to ""invest in yourself"".  Specifically, plan to get through college debt-free.  Put away money so that you have a head start once you do have living expenses — save for a car, save money for rent, etc. so that you don't have to live month to month as most people do starting out. So, what this boils down to: Put away every cent you have, in a savings account." "The typical down-payment was expected to be 20%.  The idea being that if one could not save 1/5 of the cost of a house, they were not responsible enough to ensure repayment of the loan. It is hard to say whether this is truly a relevant measure.  However, in the absence of other data points, it is pretty decent.  It typically requires a fair amount of time to amass that much money and it does demonstrate some restraint.  (e.g. it is easily the cost of a decent new car or some other shiny ""toy."") Income is not necessarily a good measure, on its own.  I am certainly more responsible with my spending when I have less money to spend.  (Lately, I have been feeling like my father, scrutinizing every single purchase down to the penny.)" Sample Numbers: Owe $100k on house.  House (after 'crash') valued at: $50K.  Reason for consternation: What rational person pays $100k for property that is only worth half that amount? True Story: My neighbor paid almost $250K (a quarter-of-a-million dollars - think about that..) for a house that when he walked (ran!) away from it was sold by the bank for $88K.  Unless he declares bankruptcy (and forgoes all his other assets, including retirement savings) he still owes the bank the difference. And even with bankruptcy, he may still owe the bank - this should cause anyone to be a bit concerned about being up-side down in a mortgage loan. "I recommend reading What's the catch in investing in real estate for rent? and making a list of expenses.  You have a known expense, the rent, and the assumption that it will rise a bit each year. If not each year, eventually the landlord will bump it, and on average, the rent should track inflation.  The buy side is the complete unknown, especially to us here. The mortgage and taxes are just the beginning. My ongoing issue in the buy/rent debate is that it's easy to buy ""too big"" or at least far bigger that what you are renting.  One extreme - a couple moves from their one bedroom apartment into their purchased 3BR home with far more space than they ever use. No need to paint the full picture of numbers, the house is a money pit, and they live for the house.  Other end - Couple already renting a nice sized home, and they buy a similar one. They rent out the two spare bedrooms for 5 years until they have kids and want their privacy back. They bought smart, for less than market price, and from day one, the mortgage was lower than the rent they paid. By year 5, having sent the extra income to pay down the mortgage, they've paid down half the loan. As the kids come along, they refi to a new 30 yr fixed at 3.5%, and the payment is tiny compared to the rest of their budget.  Simply put, the ratio of house price to rent for that same house is not a constant. When the ratio is high, it's time to rent. When it swings very low, it's worth considering a purchase. But the decision is never clear until every detail is known. The time may be perfect, and the day after you close, you lose your job, or in a good scenario, get a raise and are relocated. Just because you bought low yesterday, doesn't mean the market will pay you a good price today, it takes time for out-of-whack pricing to come back to normal.  A simple question? Maybe. But we first need a lot of details to help you understand what you are considering." "Here are some important things to think about.  Alan and Denise Fields discuss them in more detail in Your New House. Permanent work.  Where do you want to live?  Are there suitable jobs nearby?  How much do they pay? Emergency fund.  Banks care that you have ""reserves"" (and/or an unsecured line of credit) in case you have a run of bad luck.  This also helps with float the large expenses when closing a loan. Personal line of credit. Who are you building for?  If you are not married, then you should consider whether building a home makes that easier, or harder.  If you hope to have kids, you should consider whether your home will make it easier to have kids, or harder.  If you are married (or seriously considering it), make sure that your spouse helps with the shopping, and is in agreement on the priorities and choices.  If you are not married, then what will you do if/when you get married?  Will you sell?  expand?  build another house on the same lot?  rent the home out? Total budget.  How much can the lot, utilities, permits, taxes, financing charges, building costs, and contingency allowance come to?  Talk with a banker about how much you can afford.  Talk with a build-on-your-lot builder about how much house you can get for that budget.  Consider a new mobile or manufactured home.  But if you do choose one, ask your banker how that affects what you can borrow, and how it affects your rates and terms.  Talk with a good real estate agent about how much the resale value might be. Finished lot budget. How much can you budget for the lot, utilities, permits required to get zoning approval, fees, interest, and taxes before you start construction? Down payment.  It sounds like you have a plan for this. Loan underwriting.  Talk with a good bank loan officer about what their expectations are.  Ask about the ""front-end"" and ""back-end"" Debt-To-Income ratios.  In Oregon, I recommend Washington Federal for lot loans and construction loans.  They keep all of their loans, and service the loans themselves.  They use appraisers who are specially trained in evaluating new home construction.  Their appraisers tend to appraise a bit low, but not ridiculously low like the incompetent appraisers used by some other banks in the area.  (I know two banks with lots of Oregon branches that use an appraiser who ignores 40% of the finished, heated area of some to-be-built homes.)  Avoid any institution (including USAA and NavyFed) that outsources their lending to PHH. Lot loan.  In Oregon, Washington Federal offers lot loans with 30% down payments, 20-year amortization, and one point, on approved credit.  The interest rate can be a fixed rate, but is typically a few percentage points per year higher than for a mortgage secured by a permanent house.  If you have the financial wherewithal to start building within two years, Washington Federal also offers short-term lot loans.  Ask about the costs of appraisals, points, and recording fees. Rent.  How much will it cost to rent a place to live, between when you move back to Oregon, and when your new home is ready to move into? Commute.  How much time will it take to get from your new home to work?  How much will it cost?  (E.g., car ownership, depreciation, maintenance, insurance, taxes, fuel?  If public transportation is an option, how much will it cost?) Lot availability.  How many are there to choose from?  Can you talk a farmer into selling off a chunk of land?  Can you homestead government land?  How much does a lot cost?  Is it worth getting a double lot (or an extra large lot)? Utilities. Do you want to live off the grid?  Are you willing to make the choices needed to do that?  (E.g., well, generator, septic system, satellite TV and telephony, fuel storage)  If not, how much will it cost to connect to such systems?  (For practical purposes, subtract twice the value of these installation costs from the cost of a finished lot, when comparing lot deals.) Easements. These provide access to your property, access for others through your property, and affect your rights.  Utility companies often ask for far more rights than they need.  Until you sign on the dotted line, you can negotiate them down to just what they need.  Talk to a good real estate attorney. Zoning. How much will you be allowed to build?  (In terms of home square footage, garage square footage, roof area, and impermeable surfaces.)  How can the home be used?  (As a business, as a farm, how many unrelated people can live there, etc.)  What setbacks are required?  How tall can the building(s) be?  Are there setbacks from streams, swamps, ponds, wetlands, or steep slopes? Choosing a builder.  For construction loans, banks want builders who will build what is agreed upon, in a timely fashion.  If you want to build your own house, talk to your loan officer about what the bank expects in a builder. Plansets and permits.  The construction loan process. If you hire a general contractor, and if you have difficulties with the contractor, you might be forced to refuse to accept some work as being complete.  A good bank will back you up.  Ask about points, appraisal charges, and inspection fees. Insurance during construction.  Some companies have good plans -- if the construction takes 12 months or less.  Some (but not all) auto insurance companies also offer good homeowners' insurance for homes under construction.  Choose your auto insurance company accordingly. Property taxes. Don't forget to include them in your post-construction budget. Homeowners' insurance.  Avoid properties that need flood insurance.  Apply a sanity check to flood maps -- some of them are unrealistic.  Strongly consider earthquake insurance.  Don't forget to include these costs in your post-construction budget. Energy costs.  Some jurisdictions require you to calculate how large a heating system you need.  Do not trust their design temperatures -- they may not allow for enough heating during a cold snap, especially if you have a heat pump.  (Some heat pumps work at -10°F -- but most lose their effectiveness between 10°F and 25°F.)  You can use these calculations, in combination with the number of ""heating degree days"" and ""cooling degree days"" at your site, to accurately estimate your energy bills.  If you choose a mobile or manufactured home, calculate how much extra its energy bills will be. Home design.  Here are some good sources of ideas: A Pattern Language, by Christopher Alexander.  Alexander emphasizes building homes and neighborhoods that can grow, and that have niches within niches within niches. The Not-So-Big House, by Sarah Susanka.  This book applies many Alexander's design patterns to medium and large new houses. Before the Architect.  The late Ralph Pressel emphasized the importance of plywood sheathing, flashing, pocket doors, wide hallways, wide stairways, attic trusses, and open-truss or I-joist floor systems.  Lots of outlets and incandescent lighting are good too.  (It is possible to have too much detail in a house plan, and too much room in a house.  For examples, see any of his plans.) Tim Garrison, ""the builder's engineer"".  Since Oregon is in earthquake country -- and the building codes do not fully reflect that risk -- emphasize that you want a building that would meet San Jose, California's earthquake code."