How can this stock have an intra-day range of more than 90% on 24Aug2015?
"EDIT: It was System Disruption or Malfunctions August 24, 2015 2:12 PM EDT   Pursuant to Rule 11890(b) NASDAQ, on its own motion, in conjunction   with BATS, and FINRA has determined to cancel all trades in security   Blackrock Capital Investment. (Nasdaq: BKCC) at or below $5.86 that   were executed in NASDAQ between 09:38:00 and 09:46:00 ET. This   decision cannot be appealed. NASDAQ will be canceling trades on the   participants behalf. A person on Reddit claimed that he was the buyer. He used Robinhood, a $0 commission broker and start-up.  The canceled trades are reflected on CTA/UTP and the current charts will differ from the one posted below.  It is an undesired effect of the 5-minute Trading Halt.  It is not ""within 1 hour of opening, BKCC traded between $0.97 and $9.5"".  Those trades only occurred for a few seconds on two occasions.  One possible reason is that when the trading halt ended, there was a lot of Market Order to sell accumulated.  Refer to the following chart, where each candle represents a 10 second period. As you can see, the low prices did not ""sustain"" for hours.   And the published halts." "As you know, the market is in turmoil today. At this moment, 11:45 am, the S&P is down 2.3%, 45 points. But, premarket, it was down 100 points.  Now, premarket, I heard Jim Cramer say, ""today is not the day to use market orders."" Yes, on Mad Money, he seems a bit eccentric, but he does offer some wise advice at times.  In my opinion, your stock had some people that did just that. A market order. And, regardless of the fundamentals of this company, buyers had no orders to buy. Except a couple wise guys (in both senses) that put in buys at crazy prices. And they filled. With an Apple, trading around $100, the book probably has millions of shares on order with a buy at $80 or higher. Just an example. I'd bet there were a number of stocks that had the profile of yours, i.e. a chart reflecting trades similar to a flash crash. There are some traders smiling ear to ear, and some crying in their beer.     (Note - I use the phrase ""in my opinion."" This is the only explanation I can imagine. Occam's Razor.)"
"First of all, never ask a realtor for advice. The realtor represents the SELLER. Blankip's advice above is by far the most accurate of the previous answers. The first step is to estimate the market. Look at past sales in the neighborhood over time, and from them estimate the prospects for the house at different time durations. Based on other sales, how fast do you think the house will sell at a given price? 60 days, 90 days, a year? If a house is high priced, that means the seller is prepared to wait. He is saying ""I am happy to wait a year to find somebody who will pay this."" Next, who is the owner? Young professional? Retiring couple? Landlord? Flipper? Who is it? The more you know about the owner, the better. Everybody has a time table, you need to find out what that is. Next, what is YOUR timetable? You need the house by the end of the month, or by the end of the year, or never, which is it? Objectively rate the house. Plusses and minuses. Good houses are those which everybody else hates and you love. You will get the best price there. (Assuming you need to find a house in 90 days) Based on these considerations determine the lowest price you think the owner will accept in a 30-day time frame. Make a written offer with an address and email, no phone number. If he comes back with a counter offer, ignore it. If for some reason a realtor has your number and calls you, tell them ""My written offer speaks for itself. I have nothing further to say."" It is very important not to entertain haggling or counter offers. Don't even pick up the phone. He has your WRITTEN offer. He can email or write you: I accept.  If the 30-days elapse, move onto your #2 choice and make a more aggressive offer. If that doesn't work, go to choice #3 and accept the listed price. This strategy may seem counter-intuitive because the natural tendency for people is to want to communicate. Trust me: the way to succeed in a negotiation is to NOT communicate. Make your offer and that is that. That is the pro way to do it, and will produce the best result for a short-term situtation. Long term situation If you are an investor (""flipper""), or have a lot of time to wait/spend, you can use a different strategy which involves pressuring the seller. What you do here is find a property you want in which the owner is vulnerable. That means someone who is old, bankrupt, out of work, indicted and on their way to prison or already in prison, etc. Bank owned properties fall into this category. In this case you figure out the 6-month price or however long you are willing to work on it. Then you pester the person. Become their buddy. Visit them in prison. Take the bank officer to lunch. Show up on holidays. Invite them to Thanksgiving. Start a relationship. Every two weeks you pester them. Want to sell yet? Want to sell yet? You basically harass them until they capitulate. Maybe it takes 6 months. Maybe it takes 2 years. Eventually they will give in. By this means you can get a much better deal than in strategy 1 above, but it takes a lot more time and effort and is appropriate more for an investor." Not exactly nonfiction, but [Reminiscences of a Stock Operator](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reminiscences_of_a_Stock_Operator) is a can't-skip portrait of the very early days of Wall Street (early 20th century). It's a narrative memoir, not a work of analysis, which makes it an easy read.   If you're looking for something more analytical and recent (but not too recent), the can't-skip recommendation I would make is Burton Malkiel's [A Random Walk Down Wall Street](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A_Random_Walk_Down_Wall_Street).   If you're looking for something more in the biographical range, I'd look for a biography of the man who's had the most influence on the theory of portfolio construction, [Harry Markowitz](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harry_Markowitz). I don't have any titles to recommend here, although [this brief biography](http://www.nobelprize.org/nobel_prizes/economic-sciences/laureates/1990/markowitz-bio.html) might help you decide how to proceed. "The price of real estate reacts to both demand for property and the rate of inflation and rate of income growth. Mortgage rates generally move as treasury rates move. See this paragraph: As we mentioned, intermediate term bonds and long-term mortgages (more properly, Mortgage-Backed Securities, or MBS) compete for the same fixed-income investor dollar. Treasury issues are 100% guaranteed to be repaid, but mortgages are not; therefore mortgages carry more risk of default or early repayment, which could potentially disturb the return on the investment. Therefore, mortgage rates must be priced higher to compensate for that risk. But how much higher are mortgages priced? In a normal market, the average ""spread"" or markup above the 100% secured Treasury is about 170 basis points, or 1.7%. That markup -- the spread relationship -- widens and contracts with a range of market conditions, investor appetites and supply of available product -- as well as the presence of competing investment opportunities, like corporate bonds or domestic (or foreign) equity markets Source: What Moves Mortgage Rates? And when the stock market crashes, investors tend to run to bonds and treasuries, which causes prices to go up and treasury yields to drop. Theoretically, this would also cause mortgage rates to drop, although most mortgage rates have a base price below which they cannot fall. How easy is it to profit from recent stock market drops and at what frequency? Incredibly difficult. The issue with your strategy is that you cannot predict the bottom of the market (at least us mortals can't). Just take the month of August for example. Stocks fell something like 15%? After the first 5-10% drop, people felt that the bottom was there, so they rushed in, only to have the market fall even more.  How will you know when to invest? Even if the market falls by 50%, and there's a huge buying opportunity, and you increase the mortgage on your house, odds are your rates will increase because of the equity you take out. What if the market stays low for a very long time? Will you be able to maintain mortgage payments? Japan's stock bubble popped in the early 90's, and they've had two lost decade's now. Furthermore, there are issues of liquidity. What if you need more capital? Can you just sell a property or can you buy now property to draw equity against? What if the market is moving too fast for you to take advantage of. Don't ignore transaction costs and taxes either.  Overall, there are a lot of ways that your idea can go wrong, and not many ways it can go right." I think this has been clearly explained to you already.  I agree with others that you are hating on Tesla because you need to hate someone and it's been all of five minutes since you last raged.  BUT... In case that's not the case and you really just don't understand let me try and explain it.  The batteries are exactly the same, yes.  The difference between them is one is limited by software and the other is not.  There are trade offs to each choice.  Limiting the battery to 20% of it's capaciy means you can recharge to full every day and do little to no harm to your battery.  You will of course have a limited range.  With the unlocked you 75kwh battery, you get more range.  Now Tesla warns you not to charge beyond 90% of the battery capacity or you begin to damage the battery.  However you get more range.  Let's also be clear here.  The battery packs limited to 60kwh have a REDUCED price of 8500 for the vehicle.  If you want to upgrade you pay the 8500 difference, but you are also woke for tax rebates and incentives which make the upgrade cheaper.  The short: the 60kwh version is cheaper, you'll get a longer life out of your battery, and if you decide to unlock the full battery capacity, there are tax incentives making it cheaper in the long run.  Finally, your reference to this being a pay to win business model couldn't be more wrong.  From just what I've said here you're wrong.  This gets more cars into people's garage's and driveways as well as simplifies production reducing production costs.  It also provides more options to the consumer at a reasonable price.  Source: https://electrek.co/2016/06/09/tesla-60kwh-pricing-option-software-revolution-exclusive-details/ well well, good question, worth a discussion, the more filters you add to your strategy (volatility in this case), the lower its predictive power. i mean, one could further filter it by day of the week, whether prices are above or below a 200 day moving average...etc. "There are a few things you are missing here. These appear to be penny stocks or subpenny stocks. Buying these are easy.... selling is a total different ball game. Buying commissions are low and selling commissions are outrageous. Another thing you are missing in this order is... some trading platform may assume the ""AON"" sale. That is All Or None. There was an offer of 10k shares @ .63. The buyer only wanted 10k what was the broker to do with the other 20k? Did you inform the broker that partial sales where acceptable? You may want to contact your broker and explain this to them. The ALL OR NONE order has made plenty of investor a little unhappy, which seems to be your new learning experience for the day. Sorry, school of hard knocks is not always fun." You can calculate the fully diluted shares by comparing EPS vs diluted (adjusted) EPS as reported in 10K. I don't believe they report the number directly, but it is a trivial math exercise to reach it. The do report outstanding common stock (basis for EPS). As someone who works in the industry, it's because they all are on the same side of the trade doing the same thing investing based off the same data and when that data is wrong getting caught on the wrong side for a 10 to 15% move at which point they all bail together.  Lemming mentality.  It's the simplest way to understand why they are doing so bad.