What are my options for paying off the large balance of my federal, high interest student loans?
As someone with a lot of student loan debt, I can relate - the first thing you should do is read the promissory note on your current loans - there might be information there you can use.  For govt loans (stafford, etc) made after July 1, 2006 the interest rate is going to be fixed and even a federal direct consolidation is not going to lower the rates themselves.  If anything, consolidation will just increase the repayment period, which means you'll end up paying more in the long run.   Most private Loans usually offer variable interest rates, which today are quite low. But unless your financial situation is very comfortable and stable, consolidating out of federally guaranteed loans into private loans might not be the best path.  You might lose options like deferment, forbearance, and maybe even things like a death benefit (if you die, your loans die with you). related - if you have a co-signer you don't get that death benefit! But refinancing into a variable rate private loan is going to push a lot of risk to you in terms of interest rate inflation, etc. Most financial professionals will agree that interest rates can only go up in the long run. Keep in mind, student loans are completely unsecured - meaning lenders are taking a fairly large risk in loaning money (and probably why the fed govt has to guarantee most of them).  I've heard of people borrowing against their home equity to pay down student loan debt - but I can't think of a reason you'd want to substitute secured for unsecured debt and possibly lose the loan interest tax deduction.  The bottom line is you're unlikely to find an alternative lending source at a lower interest rate for an unsecured student loan.  Another option may be the income based repayment plan. If you qualify, it caps student loan monthly payments at 15% of your discretionary income (discretionary is your income minus whatever the poverty threshold income amount is). And if that 15% doesn't even cover the interest on the loans, the govt picks up the tab for the difference (for up to 3 years). You have to re-qualify every year by sending in all sorts of documentation, but if you somehow stay on IBR for 25 years, your loans are then forgiven. Obviously the downside here is that you are probably paying little to no principal, but if you do the math and determine that your IBR payment would be next to nothing, and your current situation is barely paying interest-only... well, maybe IBR isn't a bad thing for a couple of years (or 25 if you think you will never have a larger income).   Personally, I went through all these options as well and decided that my best option was to just earn more money... a 2nd job or side project here and there helps me pay down the debt faster, and with less risk, than moving to private variable rate loans.
Some have suggested you can put the money in the 401k then take a loan to pay off the student loan debt.  Some things to consider before doing that: Check your 401k plan first.  Some plans allow you to continue paying on a loan if you leave the company, some do not.  If you have to change jobs before you pay back the 401k loan, you may only have 90 days to completely pay the loan or the IRS will treat this as an early withdrawal, which means taxes and penalties.  If you don't have another job lined up, this is going to make things much worse since you will have lost your income and may owe even more to the government (depending on your state, it may be up to 50% of the remaining amount).  There are ways to work with some student debt loans to defer or adjust payments.  There is no such option with a 401k plan. This may change your taxes at the end of the year.  Most people can deduct student loan interest payments.  You cannot deduct interest paid to your 401k loan.  You are paying the interest to yourself though.   It may hurt your long term growth potential.  Currently loans on 401k loans are in the 4% range.  If you are able to make more than 4% inside of your 401k, you will be losing out on that growth since that money will only be earning the interest you pay back. It may limit flexibility for a few years.  When people fall on hard times, their 401k is their last resort.  Some plans have a limit on the number of loans you can have at one time.  You may need a loan or a withdrawal in the future.  Once you take the money out for a loan, you can't access it again.  See the first bullet about working with student loan vendors, they typically have ways to work with you under hard circumstances.  401k loans don't. Amortization schedule.  Many 401k loans can only be amortized for a max of 5 years, if you currently have 10 year loans, can you afford to pay the same debt back in 1/2 the time at a lower rate?  You will have to do the math. When considering debt other than student loans (such as credit cards), if you fall on hard times, you can always negotiate to reduce the amount you owe, or the debt can be discharged (with tax penalties of course).  They can't make you take money out.  Once it is out, it is fair game. Just to clarify, the above isn't saying you shouldn't do it under any circumstances, it is a few things you need to evaluate before making that choice.  The 401k is supposed to be used to help secure your financial future when you can't work.  The numbers may work out in the short term, but do they still work out in the long term?  Most credit cards require minimum payments high enough to pay back in 7-10 years, so does shortening that to 5 (or less) make up for the (probably early) years of compounding interest for your retirement?  I think others have addressed some of this so I won't do the math. I can tell you that I have a 401k loan, and when things got iffy at my job for, it was a very bad feeling to have that over my head because, unlike other debts, there isn't much you can do about it. "I've done exactly what you are describing and it was a great move for me. A few years back I had two credit cards. One had a $6000 balance and a fairly high interest rate that I was making steady payments to (including interest).  The other was actually tied to a HELOC (home equity line of credit) whose interest rate was fixed to ""prime"", which was very low at the time, I think my effective rate on the card was around 3%.  So, I pulled out one of the ""cash advance checks"" from the HELOC account and paid off the $6000 balance. Then I started making my monthly payments against the balance on the HELOC, and paid it off a bit more quickly and with less overall money spent because I was paying way less interest. Another, similar, tactic is to find a card that doesn't charge fees for balance transfers and that has a 0% interest rate for the first 12 months on transferred balances. I am pretty sure they are out there. Open an account on that card, transfer the balance to it, and pay it down within 12 months. And, try not to use the card for anything else if you can help it." "This is the best tl;dr I could make, [original](https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-09-28/more-americans-are-falling-behind-on-student-loans-and-nobody-quite-knows-why) reduced by 88%. (I'm a bot) ***** &gt; By. More student debtors are falling behind on their federal student loans, after three years of declines in late payments-and with no clear explanation, experts aren&amp;#039;t sure whether to take it as a sign of distress or a temporary blip.  &gt; Michael Tarkan, who tracks student debt as director of research at Washington-based Compass Point Research &amp; Trading, offered three other possibilities for why more borrowers are falling behind.  &gt; In recent years, companies like Social Finance Inc., known as SoFi, have been making new student loans to high-earning Americans with sterling credit to pay off their federal student debt.   ***** [**Extended Summary**](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/73bb2m/now_here_is_an_example_of_someone_that_is_really/) | [FAQ](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/31b9fm/faq_autotldr_bot/ ""Version 1.65, ~219224 tl;drs so far."") | [Feedback](http://np.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%23autotldr ""PM's and comments are monitored, constructive feedback is welcome."") | *Top* *keywords*: **year**^#1 **borrowers**^#2 **loan**^#3 **student**^#4 **Department**^#5" The hard and fast rule is to pay off high interest loans first, but each individual's situation is different so there are some things to consider. Student loan interest is tax deductible up to $2,500.  Will your student loan interest exceed $2,500 for the year?  If so I would try to pay down the student loan first to bring down the total interest for the year so that you get as much interest back as possible on your tax return.  Also, it may be beneficial to pay off the car first to close that account so that you are only left with the 1 loan.  Once you have the car loan payment out of the way you can dedicate that amount to paying off the student loan. I'm in almost the same situation as you.  I currently have a mortgage and car payment.  In 6 months my grace period will be over, and my student loan payments will start.  I have $100k in student loan debt.  So I will have a $1,100 mortgage payment, $1,100 student loan payment, and $700 car payment (car loan is 0%).  I don't want to have 3 loans active so I will pay off my car loan in a 2-3 months to get that out of the way.  Then I will pay down my student loan by paying $700 extra every month. employed under the table and doesn't have a bank account If I could make that size 10,000,000 font I would.  Your friend likely also isn't paying taxes.  The student loan penalties will be nothing compared to what the IRS does to you.   Avoid taking financial advice from that person. I'm pessimistic about most things, so: They can't REPO the degree and the knowledge, but they can sure REPO the CAR, so pay off the car. My suggestion would be to pay off the vehicle, because no matter what the future holds (good or bad) you will need a vehicle to get around. Although, I recently found out from the comment below that student loans are a recourse debt that won't be forgiven. Not even with bankruptcy. Most collection agencies will take pennies in the dollar for debt, but not with student loans. @littleadv has said most of what I'd say if they had not gotten here first. I'd add this much, it's important to understand what debt collectors can and cannot do, because a lot of them will use intimidation and any other technique you can think of to get away with as much as you will let them. I'd start with this PDF file from the FTC and then start googling for info on your state's regulations. Also it would be a very very good idea to review the documents you signed (or get a copy) when you took out the loan to see what sort of additional penalties etc you may have already agreed to in the event you default.  The fee's the collector is adding in could be of their own creation (making them highly negotiable), or it might be something you already agreed to in advance(leaving you little recourse but to pay them). Do keep in mind that in many cases debt collectors are ausually llowed at the very least to charge you simple interest of around 10%.  On a debt of your size, paid off over several years, that might amount to more than the $4K they are adding.  OTOH you can pretty much expect them to try both, tacking on 'fees' and then trying to add interest if the fees are not paid.   Another source of assistance may be the Department of Education Ombudsman: If you need help with a defaulted student loan, contact the Department of Education's Ombudsman at 877-557-2575 or visit its website at www.fsahelp.ed.gov. But first you must take steps to resolve your loan problem on your own (there is a checklist of required steps on the website), or the Ombudsman will not assist you. Excellent question and it is a debate that is often raised.  Mathematically you are probably best off using option #1.  Any money that is above and beyond minimum payments earns a pretty high interest rate, about 6.82% in the form of saved interest payments. The problem is you are likely to get discouraged.  Personal finance is a lot about behavior, and after working at this for a year, and still having 5 loans, albeit a lower balance, might take a bit of fight out of you. Paying off such a large balance, in a reasonable time, will take a lot of fight. With the debt snowball, you pay the minimum to the student loan, save in an outside account, and when it is large enough, you execute option #2.  So a year from now you might only have three loans instead of five.  If you behaved exactly the same your balance would be higher after that year then using the previous method. However often one does not behave the same.  Because the goals are shorter and more attainable it is easier to delay some gratification.  The 8 dollars you are saving in your weekly gas budget, because of low prices, is meaningful when saving for a 4K goal, where it is meaningless when looking at it as a 74K goal.  With the 4K goal you are more apt to put that money in your savings, where the 74K goal you might spend it on a latte. For me, the debt snowball worked really well. With either option make sure that excess payments actually go to a reduction in principle not a prepayment of interest.  Given this you may be left with no option.  For example if method #1 you only prepay interest, you are forced to use option #2.