I'm an American in my mid 20's. Is there something I should be doing to secure myself financially?
First of all, make sure you have an emergency fund.  Ideally this should be at least 6 months of living expenses in an easily accessible place. Do you have any credit card debt, school debt, or other debt?  Work towards becoming debt free, especially of higher interest debt and debt on things that are only depreciating (cars, for example).  If you have extra income, consider putting it towards debt. If you currently have access to a 403b, you should begin investing immediately.  If not, look into a Roth IRA.  The community has provided suggestions for good places to get one.  With a Roth IRA you take post-tax income money and invest it into this retirement account and when you reach retirement age you get it and all the interest as tax-free income.  You can't withdraw the principal until retirement age.  You should put up to the legal limit into a retirement account - if you can't do this at first work towards this goal. After an emergency fund, becoming debt free, and fully funding your retirement, save for goals such as a house or other things you are working towards. The exact order of doing these things might vary, but in general you need the emergency fund first. On average, you should be saving at least 10-15% of your income in order to be financially secure when you retire.  Different people will tell you different things, but really this can be split between short term savings (cash), long term savings (401ks, IRAs, stocks & bonds), and paying down debt. That $5k is a good start on an emergency fund, but you probably want a little more.  As justkt said, 6 months' worth is what you want to aim for.  Put this in a Money Market account, where you'll earn a little more interest but won't be penalized from withdrawing it when its needed (you may have to live off it, after all). Beyond that, I would split things up; if possible, have payroll deductions going to a broker (sharebuilder is a good one to start with if you can't spare much change), as well as an IRA at a bank. Set up a separate checking account just for rent and utilities, put a month's worth of cash in there, and have another payroll deduction that covers your living expenses + maybe 5% put in there automatically.  Then, set up automatic bill payments, so you don't even have to think about it.  Check it once a month to make sure there aren't any surprises. Pay off your credit cards every month.  These are, by far, the most expensive forms of credit that most people have.  You shouldn't be financing large purchases with them (you'll get better rates by taking a personal loan from a bank). Set specific goals for savings, and set up automatic payroll deductions to work towards them.  Especially for buying a house; most responsible lenders will ask for 20% down.  In today's market, that means you need to write a check for $40k or $50k.  While it's tempting to finance up to 100% of the property value, it's also risky considering how volatile markets can be.  You don't want to end up owing more on the property than it's worth two years down the road. If you find yourself at the end of the month with an extra $50 or so, consider your savings goals or your current debt instead of blowing it on a toy.  Especially if you have long term debt (high balance credit cards, vehicle or property loans), applying that money directly to principal can save you months (or years) paying it back, and hundreds or thousands of dollars of interest (all depending on the details of the loan, of course). Above all, have fun with it :)  Think of your personal net worth as you do your Gamer score on the XBox, and look for ways to maximize it with a minimum of effort or investment on your part!  Investing in yourself and your future can be incredibly rewarding emotionally :) "I may be walking on thin ice but that's never stopped me from answering before. ;) I have a PhD in physics.  I knew that I wasn't a die-hard publisher so I didn't pursue academia. A postdoc will likely pay about what a person with a BS in math could make in industry, but you're now a few years past that age.  You'll be playing catch-up.  The magic of compounding was working on a small amount of money while you were studying, if it was anything like my experience. When I think ""postdoc"" I think ""you're looking for tenure track"" so if that's incorrect forgive me.  Competition will be fierce for those positions, meaning you'll be looking at not one but several postdoc positions, all at low salaries.  Postdocs are a way of absorbing the glut of PhDs. Tenure track is a long road, and by the time you get there -- if you get there -- who knows if there will be such a thing as tenure? Long way of putting this:  I'd take a good, hard, careful look outside of academia for your employment if you're concerned about your financial outlook." "Buy this book.  It is a short, simple crash course on personal finance, geared at someone in their 20s just starting out their career.  You can easily finish it in a weekend.  The book is a little dated at this point (pre housing bubble), but it is still valid.  I personally feel it is the best intro to personal finance out there. 99% of the financial advice you read online will be a variation of what is already in this book.  If you do what the book says, you should be in a solid position financially.  You won't be an investment guru or anything, but you will at least have the fundamentals. There are various ""protips"" for personal finance that go beyond the book, but I would advise against paying too much attention to them until you have the basics down."
The steps you outlined are fine by themselves. Step 5, seeking criticism can be less helpful than one may think.  See stocktwits.com  There are a lot of opposing opinions all of which can be correct over different time-frames.  Try and quantify your confidence and develop different strategies for different confidence levels. I was never smart enough or patient with follow through to be a successful value investor. It was very frustrating to watch stocks trade sideways for years before the company's intrinsic value was better reflected in the market.  Also, you could make an excellent pick, but a macro change and slump could set you back a year and raise doubts. In my experience portfolio management techniques like asset allocation and dollar-cost-averaging is what made my version of value investing work. Your interest in 10k/10q is something to applaud.  Is there something specific about 10k/10q that you do not understand?  Context is key, these types of reports are more relevant and understandable when compared to competitors in the same sector.   It is good to assess over confidence!  It is also good to diversify your knowledge and the effort put into Securities Analysis 6th edition will help with other books in the field.  I see a bit of myself in your post, and if you are like me, than subsequent readings, and full mastery of the concepts in 'Securities & Analysis 6th ed.'  will lead to over confidence, or a false understanding as there are many factors at play in the market.  So many, that even the most scientific approaches to investing can just as equally be described as an 'art'. I'm not aware of the details of your situation, but in general, for you to fully realize the benefits from applying the principals of value investing shared by Graham and more recently Warren Buffett, you must invest on the level that requires use of the consolidation or equity method of accounting, e.g. > 20% ownership.   Sure, the same principals used by Buffett can work on a smaller scale, but a small scale investor is best served by wealth accumulation, which can take many forms. Not the addition of instant equity via acquisitions to their consolidated financials. Lastly, to test what you have learned about value investing, and order execution, try the inverse.  At least on paper.  Short a stock with low value and a high P/E.  TWTR may be a good example? Learn what it is like to have your resources at stake, and the anguish of market and security volatility. It would be a lot easier to wait it out as a long-term value investor from a beach house in Santa Barbara :) "The question you should be asking yourself is this: ""Why am I putting money into a 401(k)?"" For many people, the answer is to grow a (large) nest egg and save for future retirement expenses. Investors are balancing risk and potential reward, so the asset categories you're putting your 401(k) contribution towards will be a reflection on how much risk you're willing to take. Per a US News & World Report article: Ultimately, investors would do well to remember one of the key tenants   of investing: diversify. The narrower you are with your investments,   the greater your risk, says Vanguard's Bruno: ""[Diversification]   doesn't ensure against a loss, but it does help lessen a significant   loss."" Generally, investing in your employer's stock in your 401(k) is considered very risk. In fact, one Forbes columnist recommends not putting any money into company stock. FINRA notes: Simply stated, if you put too many eggs in one basket, you can expose yourself to significant risk. In financial terms, you are under-diversified: you have too much of   your holdings tied to a single investment—your company's stock.   Investing heavily in company stock may seem like a good thing when   your company and its stock are doing well. But many companies   experience fluctuations in both operational performance and stock   price. Not only do you expose yourself to the risk that the stock   market as a whole could flounder, but you take on a lot of company   risk, the risk that an individual firm—your company—will falter or   fail. In simpler terms, if you invest a large portion of your 401(k) funds into company stock, if your company runs into trouble, you could lose both your job AND your retirement investments. For the other investment assets/vehicles, you should review a few things: Personally, I prefer to keep my portfolio simple and just pick just a few options based on my own risk tolerance. From your fund examples, without knowing specifics about your financial situation and risk tolerance, I would have created a portfolio that looks like this when I was in my 20's: I avoided the bond and income/money market funds because the growth potential is too low for my investing horizon. Like some of the other answers have noted, the Target Date funds invest in other funds and add some additional fee overhead, which I'm trying to avoid by investing primarily in index funds. Again, your risk tolerance and personal preference might result in a completely different portfolio mix." I would be very cautious about investing any more funds into the S&P500 at this stage. You are quite correct in your observation with the charts regarding the 2001 and 2008 crashes, and below is the chart of the S&P500 over the last 20 years with some indicators on it.  The green line on the price chart is the 100 week Moving Average (MA) and the pink line below the price chart is the Moving Average of the Rate of Change (ROC) Indicator. In general the market is moving up if price is above the 100 week MA and the ROC is above 0%, and vise-versa the market is moving down if price is below the 100 week MA and the ROK is below 0%. Both times in 2001 and in 2008 when prices broke below the 100 week MA and then the ROC crossed below the zero line, well we all know what happened next. In 2001 prices kept falling and the ROC didn't cross back above zero for about 2.5 years, in 2008 much the same happened and the ROC didn't cross back above zero for over 20 months. Now as we are reaching the end of 2015 prices have once again broken below the 100 week MA and the ROC is just above the zero line quickly heading down towards it. If you have a 5 to 8 year time frame, and prices do continue to fall much further after the ROC crosses below the zero line, your current funds and any new funds you invest in this ETF will potentially see heavy losses for the next one to two years and then take another year to two years or more to recover to current levels. This means that your funds will potentially have no gains at all in 5 or 6 years time. A better option is to get out of the market once the ROC crosses below zero and then look to get back in once the recovery has started, when the ROC crosses back above the Zero line. You might be out of the market for a year or two, but once you get back in you can expect robust gains over the next 3 to 5 years. If you do get out and things reverse quite quickly you can easily just get back in. In mid-2010 and mid-2011 the price broke below the 100 week MA but the ROC remained above Zero and prices continued moving up after short corrections. In mid-2012 the ROC got very close to the Zero line but did not cross below it, and again prices continued to go up after a small correction. You should plan for the worst and be ready if it occurs. If you don't plan you're just hoping and hoping is what will keep you awake at night whist things are going against you. My point was more that I've seen, firsthand, people *not* take financial responsibility for their dependents or for themselves, and that they can't be trusted in investing in any future.  Like I keep saying though, I just wish *those* irresponsible folks didn't benefit from the social security. I wish it went to their burial costs, to the bereaving family, etc.   Personally, I have modest Life Insurance available through my employer, and I usually opt-in to any additional programs offered at open enrollment. Given I'm still in great health and in my 20's I probably ought to look into getting more/real Life Insurance, as well. Of course I'd rather be investing in my family's own wellbeing than the state of, well, the State, but for the aforementioned reasons I see benefits in the status quo model, as well. "Money is a token that you can trade to other people for favors. Debt is a tool that allows you to ask for favors earlier than you might otherwise. What you have currently is: If the very worst were to happen, such as: You would owe $23,000 favors, and your ""salary"" wouldn't make a difference. What is a responsible amount to put toward a car? This is a tricky question to answer. Statistically speaking the very worst isn't worth your consideration. Only the ""very bad"", or ""kinda annoying"" circumstances are worth worrying about. The things that have a >5% chance of actually happening to you. Some of the ""very bad"" things that could happen (10k+ favors): Some of the ""kinda annoying"" things that could happen (~5k favors): So now that these issues are identified, we can settle on a time frame. This is very important. Your $30,000 in favors owed are not due in the next year. If your student loans have a typical 10-year payoff, then your risk management strategy only requires that you keep $3,000 in favors (approx) because that's how many are due in the next year. Except you have more than student loans for favors owed to others. You have rent. You eat food. You need to socialize. You need to meet your various needs. Each of these things will cost a certain number of favors in the next year. Add all of them up. Pretending that this data was correct (it obviously isn't) you'd owe $27,500 in favors if you made no money. Up until this point, I've been treating the data as though there's no income. So how does your income work with all of this? Simple, until you've saved 6-12 months of your expenses (not salary) in an FDIC or NCUSIF insured savings account, you have no free income. If you don't have savings to save yourself when bad things happen, you will start having more stress (what if something breaks? how will I survive till my next paycheck? etc.). Stress reduces your life expectancy. If you have no free income, and you need to buy a car, you need to buy the cheapest car that will meet your most basic needs. Consider carpooling. Consider walking or biking or public transit. You listed your salary at ""$95k"", but that isn't really $95k. It's more like $63k after taxes have been taken out. If you only needed to save ~$35k in favors, and the previous data was accurate (it isn't, do your own math): Per month you owe $2,875 in favors (34,500 / 12) Per month you gain $5,250 in favors (63,000 / 12) You have $7,000 in initial capital--I mean--favors You net $2,375 each month (5,250 - 2,875)   To get $34,500 in favors will take you 12 months ( ⌈(34,500 - 7,000) / 2,375⌉ ) After 12 months you will have $2,375 in free income each month. You no longer need to save all of it (Although you may still need to save some of it. Be sure recalculate your expenses regularly to reevaluate if you need additional savings). What you do with your free income is up to you. You've got a safety net in saved earnings to get you through rough times, so if you want to buy a $100,000 sports car, all you have to do is account for it in your savings and expenses in all further calculations as you pay it off. To come up with a reasonable number, decide on how much you want to spend per month on a car. $500 is a nice round number that's less than $2,375. How many years do you want to save for the car? OR How many years do you want to pay off a car loan? 4 is a nice even number. $500 * 12 * 4 = $24,000 Now reduce that number 10% for taxes and fees $24,000 * 0.9 = $21,600 If you're getting a loan, deduct the cost of interest (using 5% as a ballpark here) $21,600 * 0.95 = $20,520 So according to my napkin math you can afford a car that costs ~$20k if you're willing to save/owe $500/month, but only after you've saved enough to be financially secure." Keep in mind your household income is in the top 20%, which does not translate to wealth. Given a healthy income, and no debt, other then a small house payment, you probably have a decent amount of free cash flow.  This could easily be used to buy a car on time… which a lot of people do.  Congratulations on being different.   Having said that, living as you do, you will likely be wealthier than your income suggests. If you invested the amount you saved on car payments for an average car you can become a muli-millionaire. Doing that alone can put you in the top 10% of the wealthiest in this nation. Keep in mind 76% of Americans live paycheck-to-paycheck, so there is a sizable portion of the population that make more than you do, yet one costly emergency can cause them to spiral into significant financial difficulty. News flash: Emergencies happen. If I am not being clear, you are living wisely! I would recommend reading The Millionaire Next Door and The Millionaire Mind. You will understand that not following the whims of advertisers is good for your bottom line and that it is good to be different from the general population. One of my favorite stories from the author is these yuppies hires the author to find them rich people to sell their products. The author gets the rich people by offering them cash, albeit a relatively small amount considering their wealth (about $200) and lunch. The yuppies complain that the guys don’t “look rich” as there are no fancy suits or Rolex watches. One of the rich guys likes the pitch so much in inquires on how he can buy the company. There are a lot of lessons in that short anecdote. "I'll second what littleadv says about the ""entertainment"" expenses; they do seem high relative to your income.  The numbers for electricity and vehicle insurance seem high to me as well, but that depends on where you live and how you heat your house, etc., so they may be normal for your situation. You've got almost $500/month going to debt payments (vehicle, window replacement, and student loan).  You didn't list the credit card payments on there, so that will add to the debt payment amount.  Finding a way to get those debts paid off as quickly as possible would free up a lot of cash flow.  You could consider trying to find extra income (second job, your wife getting a job or finding a way to make some money from home, sell some things, etc.) I'm wondering about the things I don't see here: food (including restaurants), clothing, fuel, maintenance and repairs (both car and house), etc, etc.  With the numbers you list above, you have money left over every month, but when you add in the things I just mentioned, that may not be the case. I suggest that you keep track of all of your expenses for the next month to see what you're really spending (including the things not listed here).  Then, using that information, make a plan for the following month (and every month thereafter) about how you're going to live on what you bring home.  Just tracking your expenses will likely show you some areas where you could easily cut back on spending.   Also, I recommend that you start working on a plan to increase your income, both temporarily as I suggest above, and longer term by focusing on your career direction.  You are above the poverty level (assuming you live in the US), but below average in income." As a 20 year old who has just started earning enough to save, I suggest showing them the different types of lifestyles they could live in the future if they started saving now versus what their life would be like if they didn't save at all. Try showing them actual dollar values as well so it's not just an arbitrary idea.