What's the process to buy an old house to tear it down and create a new one?
By process, I assume you mean the financial process. Financially, this doesn't look any different to me than buying an empty lot to build a rental unit, with the added expense (potentially significant) of doing the tear-down. Given your lack of experience and capital, I would be very hesitant to jump in like this. You are going to have to spend a lot of time managing the build process, or pay someone else to do it for you. And expect everything to take twice as long and cost twice as much as you expect. If you really want to get into the landlord business, I would suggest starting with a structurally sound building that needs some renovation work and start there. One you have that up and running, you can use the cash flow and equity to finance something more aggressive. If you still think you want to do this, the first thing to do is figure out if the financials make sense. How much will it cost to do the tear-down and rebuild, plus the typical rental expenses:ongoing maintenance, taxes, insurance, vacancy rates and compare that to the expected rental rates in the area to see how long it will take to 1) achieve a positive cash flow, and 2) break even. There are a lot of good questions on this site related to rentals that go into much more detail about how to approach this. Thank you for your response KeithB and Ross. I was researching more about this and looks like I have to follow all these steps (please, correct me if I'm wrong):
My dad owned a steel Drum / barrel recycling company where we would get barrel from food companies and recondition them. Sometimes we would get drums from one company for free and they would call us to buy drums, many times we would sell them the same drums that we got from them for FREE. That's the beauty of recycling.   After some time we started doing plastic drums and we had to find a way to salvage the plastic drums that we were not able to refurbish. So we started contacting plastic companies and started talking to a company in Middle Tennessee.    He was a huge plastic processor that was shipping hundreds of thousands tons of plastic regrind every week. He was from India and had a huge plant about 70 miles from Memphis were I was living. He would process the plastic rods or shanks here in the U.S. and ship them too be made into products in India. I was in the process of securing a processing machine from him, one from a company in Northern California, and one from a company in Florida. All three where going to place a processing machine in my dads plant in Memphis and create a coast to coast pipeline with Memphis as the center point. They where going to let us pay for the machinery by paying us to process a percentage of their plastic since much of it was coming through Memphis. That way all they had to do was ship the material once it arrived from our plant. Since Memphis is the gateway to the west and a main truck route it was perfect.   This type of arrangement is easy to make if you can convince the major players that you can deliver their product as promised. I also made arrangements with the processor close to me to relocate 2 of his employees to Memphis to manage the equipment until we got failure with the equipment and act as liaison for him. He was agreeing to everything I asked because it would have relieve production pressure off his employees and help him with his bottom line.   Make sure you investigate the type of machines you need to process the many types of plastics your processor needs or wants. There are different types of plastics and different ways of processing it.   #1 – PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) ... #2 – HDPE (High-Density Polyethylene) ... #3 – PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) ... #4 – LDPE (Low-Density Polyethylene) ... #5 – PP (Polypropylene) ... #6 – PS (Polystyrene)  I also know that California has a lot of air quality laws. What I would do is get to know your local EPA reps and run your plans by them, they will be able to tell you all you can and can't do. Also you processor is going to want to see your Feasibility Study and business plan before he does this type of arrangement. Once you let me know if this is something that you are still interested in doing I will send you my old business plan.     Here is a video to really get an idea of what's involved https://youtu.be/vAr4BZM_Tzk "Canadian bubble is in a weird place.  The problem with the market is it doesn't take into account the increase in quality.  I lived in one of the frothiest places on the north side of Toronto.  When I first moved their the same bungalow that sold for $1mm + was about 400-450k.  What they don't mention in those articles is that there is a fair amount of LAND, and that the new owners will tear it down the day they take possession, and build a really large home on it.  That is why you see single dethatched homes in Toronto outpacing condos by a huge margin.  (or one reason anyway.  we have our green belt/intensification issues, and in Vancouver, they have natural intensification issues thanks to the mountains and the ocean.)  All that said, I was pretty sure I had bought at the height recently, but lo and behold prices continued to rise.  I think the only thing that will ""save"" us is the insured mortgages.  I mean there will be write offs, but not like what we saw in the US, as Canadian banks/and FIs are much more conservative.  I think China is the wild card in the Canadian RE market, at least on the condo side.  We don't have any good statistics about how many investors are off Canadian soil." It is a very bad idea in almost all circumstances to borrow/withdraw from an IRA (or other retirement account) for a down payment on a house and I would only suggest it as a last resort. Even as a last resort it is a bad idea, and I'd suggest you aren't ready to buy a house until you have enough non-retirement money to do the deal. In your case you have money in savings, you should absolutely do that. If you don't feel comfortable using your emergency fund, you need to keep saving until you can afford to buy a house. Your retirement fund isn't a piggy bank for when you need money now, it is a payment you make to keep a decent lifestyle later in life. When you are retired your options for alternate income streams will be much more limited.  The biggest hidden cost is the opportunity cost of not having that money working for you. Your final retirement balance is very likely (when done correctly) going to be mostly comprised of the return on your investment more so than the money you put in. While you are young your greatest asset is time for that money to grow, don't throw that away when you have viable options! The other problem, if you are talking about an employer plan (401K/Roth) is that if you lose your job you will have 60-90 days to pay back the loan or it will be considered a distribution and subject to taxes plus a 10% early withdrawal penalty. This happened to a bunch of my friends from work when our company got bought by another company forcing them to close the old 401K plan and transfer to the new one. Short version: Don't touch retirement money for non-retirement things unless it is a life/death emergency and you have no other options. You want to buy a house for $150,000.  It may be possible to do this with $10,000 and a 3.5% downpayment, but it would be a lot better to have $40,000 and make a 20% downpayment.  That would give you a cushion in case house prices fall, and there are often advantages to a 20% downpayment (lower rate; less mandatory insurance).   You have an income of $35,000 and expenses of $23,000 (if you are careful with the money--what if you aren't?).  You should have savings of either $17,500 or $11,500 in case of emergencies.  Perhaps you simply weren't mentioning that.  Note that you also need at least $137 * 26 = $3562 more to cover mortgage payments, so $15,062 by the expenses standard.  This is in addition to the $40,000 for downpayment and closing costs.   What do you plan to do if there is a problem with the new house, e.g. you need a new roof?  Or smaller expenses like a new furnace or appliance?  A plumbing problem?  Damages from a storm?  What if the tenants' teenage child has a party and trashes the place?  What if your tenants stop paying rent but refuse to move out, trashing the place while being evicted?  Your emergency savings need to be able to cover those situations.   You checked comps (comparable properties).  Great!  But notice that you are looking at a one bathroom property for $150,000 and comparing to $180,000 houses.  Consider that you may not get the $235 for that house, which is cheaper.  Perhaps the rent for that house will only be $195 or less, because one bathroom doesn't really support three bedrooms of people.   While real estate can be part of a portfolio, balance would suggest that much more of your portfolio be in things like stocks and bonds.  What are you doing for retirement?  Are you maxing out any tax-advantaged options that you have available?  It might be better to do that before entering the real estate market.   I am a 23 year old Australian man with a degree in computer science and a steady job from home working as a web developer. I'm a bit unclear on this.  What makes the job steady?  Is it employment with a large company?  Are you self-employed with what has been a steady flow of customers?  Regardless of which it is, consider the possibility of a recession.  The company can lay you off (presumably you are at the bottom of the seniority).  The new customers may be reluctant to start new projects while their cash flow is restrained.  And your tenants may move out.  At the same time.  What will you do then?   A mortgage is an obligation.  You have to pay it regardless.  While currently flush, are you the kind of flush that can weather a major setback?  I would feel a lot better about an investment like this if you had $600,000 in savings and were using this as a complementary investment to broaden your portfolio.  Even if you had $60,000 in savings and would still have substantial savings after the purchase.  This feels more like you are trying to maximize your purchase.  Money burning a hole in your pocket and trying to escape.   It would be a lot safer to stick to securities.  The worst that happens there is that you lose your investment (and it's more likely that the value will be reduced but recover).  With mortgages, you can lose your entire investment and then some.  Yes, the price may recover, but it may do so after the bank forecloses on the mortgage. How about a third approach: Figure the buyout as above. Figure what percentage of the value of the house the buyout constitutes. When the house sells the other party gets that percentage of the sales price. A real life experience. A friend of mine did that with his housemates. They bought a house together as students and it worked for them. The tricky bit is to have a very good contract with your housemates as to how the venture should work.  What if? Somebody can't pay, somebody can't enjoy the house (on an extended trip), somebody wants out (marriage, etc.) It worked for my friend... It's all about the land value. The structure is only ever worth as much as it would cost to build a new one (minus demolition costs) This is of course a perfectly normal thing to happen. People trade up to a bigger house every day. When you've found a bigger house you want to move to and a buyer for your existing one, you arrange 'closing dates' for both i.e. the date on which the sale actually happens. Usually you make them very close, either on the same day or with an overlap of a few weeks. You use the equity (i.e. the difference between the house value and the mortgage) in the old house as the down payment on the new house. You can't of course use the part of the old house that is mortgaged. If the day you buy the new and sell the old is the same, your banks and lawyers do everything for you on that day. If there is an overlap then you need something called 'bridge financing' to cover the period when you own two houses. Banks are used to doing this, and it's not really that expensive when you take into account all the other costs of moving house. Talk to them for details. As a side note, it is generally reckoned not to be worth buying a house if you only intended to live there one or two years. The costs involved in the process of buying, selling and moving usually outweigh any gains in house value. You may find yourself with a higher down payment if you rent for a year or two and save up a down payment for your 'bigger' house instead.