All right guys,
Navy,
isn't here with F superhero.
We're going to be doing
a DIY on the Volvo.
[inaudible] behind me.
We're going to replacing
the oil filter housing,
uh,
mainly due to the PCV
failure on top of this thing.
Um,
this is a kit sold on FTP euro.com with
all the components needed to do that.
And also we have the oil change
kit for the car right here,
because obviously this is
the oil filter housing.
We're going to have to drain a
lot of oil out to do that job.
So we have the oil change kit
here from us superhero as well.
So let's jump into this
job and let's get started.
So how do you know if you need to replace
your oil filter housing and your PCV
system on your Volvo P one,
this is going to go for the [inaudible],
the [inaudible],
the [inaudible] and the [inaudible] both
the T five engines and the 2.4 engines.
This is most commonly found
on the T five engines though,
the way you're going to be able to know
that you need this is you're going to be
able to hear a significant amount
of worrying or suction coming
from the valve cover of the engine.
It's going to sound something like this.
[Inaudible] [inaudible].
Basically what happens is when
the diaphragm tears on this,
you get a high amount of vacuum in the
crankcase that vacuum tries to seat past
the oil fill,
and it makes a sort of
whistling or worrying noise.
The way you can tell is if
you pull the oil fill cap off,
you can feel that there's a
significant amount of vacuum there,
and you'll actually pop it up in the,
in the noise will go away.
If that's going on in your engine,
I can almost guarantee you that the
diaphragm and your PCV system has torn and
this part needs to be replaced.
So if you go ahead and continue driving
the car and do not replace this,
what's going to happen.
Is that a high level of crankcase vacuum
is going to start wearing out all of
your engine seals.
So you're talking
camshafts seals mean seals,
even some of the gaskets.
What happens is it all sucks in and they
start wearing out and you're going to
develop a series of oil leaks.
So I highly recommend changing
this at the first signs of any,
any problem.
So you also may see some codes,
um,
being displayed or check engine
light being displayed on the car.
Uh,
some of those codes are
going to be kind of random.
Uh,
you may see high vacuum.
You may see,
um,
codes such as idle,
uh,
control module,
not being able to adjust
that idle properly.
Um,
some other random things,
uh,
basically when the PCV system allows
me extra vacuum in the crankcase,
the engine just doesn't get happy and
it just kind of runs a little bit rough,
especially around idle.
And you'll notice it when
you're driving the car.
All right.
So the tools required to do this.
Do DIY are going to be a,
uh,
to cut the old hoses.
Uh,
you're gonna need snips
to cut some zip ties,
90 degree pick Flathead screwdriver.
You're going to get a 17
and a 10 millimeter wrench.
Um,
you'll also need an eight
and a 10 millimeter socket or
ratchet,
a couple of different extensions
and a [inaudible] and a [inaudible]
bit.
And the last thing you're going to need
is a 36 millimeter oil filter wrench to
remove the oil filter from the housing.
Alright,
so the first step is we're going to remove
a couple of things out of this engine
Bay,
just to gain access.
One of those is going to be
the boost pipe right here.
The next one is going to be
the air scoop for the air box.
And we're going to disconnect
a couple of vacuum lines.
We're going to basically
start pulling things back.
So we have access to
everything we need to,
to address the oil filter
housing and the PCV system.
First thing I'm going to
do is loosen up the clamps,
holding the,
um,
fresh air feed for the turbocharger.
So this comes off of the mass
airflow and off of the air box,
and it feeds fresh air
into the turbocharger.
It sits behind the engine.
So I'm using a flat screwdriver.
I'm just going to loosen up these clamps.
And we have a 10 millimeter fastener
down on the side of the engine head.
And there's also one
right on the back here.
So we're gonna move these
two 10 millimeter bolts.
So before we pop this out of the way,
we're going to disconnect
this vacuum line right here,
just by pushing down on the
blue and pulling it out,
just like that.
Um,
and just to get this thing a little
cleaner and easier to work on,
we're going to remove this one as well.
So we just push down on the red collar
and we just pull it straight out just
like that.
Now we can kind of set these aside,
um,
or you can disconnect it
from the brake vacuum,
just like that,
and just kind of pull this
whole system off to the side,
and that will allow for this
whole assembly to be removed
just like that.
So right here we have the vacuum line.
We have the one Mount on the side of the
cylinder head and we have the one Mount
on the back of the valve cover.
Alright.
So the next thing we're gonna do
is we're gonna remove this cover.
It's simple.
It is a T 30 bit and is one,
two,
three,
four,
five,
six bolts.
And this whole cover is going to come off.
So what I'm doing right now is there's
a significant amount of rust in these
bolts.
So I'm just using a pic and trying
to get as much out of it as I can.
So I can get this teeth 30
bit as tight as possible.
So I don't have to drill them out.
I'd really like to avoid drilling these.
Now we've pulled the cover.
All right.
So the next step is we're going to
remove the air feed for the air box.
Uh,
so normally this is two eight
millimeter bolts on this car.
It's missing one of the bolts right here.
Uh,
so we just have one eight
millimeter right here.
Alright.
So now pulling up,
um,
normally this is a lock on it.
The lock is actually broken on this car.
Um,
but,
and then it pops off here.
I'm gonna use my little pick,
just start that.
Alright.
So the next step is we're going to remove
the actual 90 degree that goes into
the air box.
It's very simple,
basically reach down and just wiggle
and pull it to the passenger side of the
car and it will release just like that.
Just eclipsing.
All right.
So now we have our first access
to actually seeing the PCV
system and the oil filter housing.
So basically that lives right here.
So the next step is
we're actually going to,
um,
try to remove this entire air box
to get access to this so we can work
underneath here.
First step here,
unplug the mass air flow sensor to
release the lock on the bottom and
pull up.
You can see it's just a push lock,
just like that,
set that aside.
And then now,
just to make sure I protect this,
I'm actually going to unbolt the mass
airflow from the airbox so I can wiggle
the airbox a little more.
So now with the [inaudible] bit,
I'm going to remove the two Torx
that hold the mass airflow into the
air box.
No that's removed.
We can remove the mass air flow just
by simply wiggling and pulling it out.
Just like that.
There's just a big rubber seal there.
That's going to have to separate.
All right.
The next step is we're going to
remove the cover for the computer.
So right here,
I'm pulling up the cover and I'm
gaining access to the engine computer.
You can see,
I simply just pulled this up and it clips
in right here and it just slides into
a little lock right there on this corner.
Now,
before we go any further,
we're going to disconnect the battery
before we disconnect the engine computer.
So pulling the cover up,
we are going to remove
the negative terminal,
which on this case,
um,
obviously leading from the
ground is this one right here.
So quickly putting a
10 millimeter on there
an hour,
just pull that up and make
sure that it's out of the way.
So now that we have the
battery disconnected from the,
from the engine,
we're going to remove
the ECM from the air box.
So the first thing we're going to do
is we're going to unplug it right here.
And then we're going to remove the
series of T 30 Torx on the outside of the
computer to remove it
in case it gets damaged.
This allows us to give a little
more movement to the air box,
to get it free from underneath
the intake manifold.
And it also makes sure that
this won't get damaged.
So first thing I'm going to
do is unplug the harnesses,
push down right here
and click the red back.
And now I'm just going to wiggle
the top portion off just like that.
And now I'm going to do
the same on the bottom.
So push down with my thumb
so you can see there,
push down and now pull the red up
and then wiggle it off.
Now,
both are,
I'm just going to set those aside,
make sure those wires don't get damaged.
And now we're going to take a [inaudible]
and we're going to unbolt the ECM.
I'm gonna leave that bolt
in there just as a holder.
And now that I have the Bob,
the three hard to get bolts out,
I'm going to get the easy to bolt,
get bolt out and pull the CCM.
Let me just pull that right off.
So now the next step is we want to
get this wiring harness right here,
disconnected from the air box.
So there's a series of ways to do that.
So right here,
you can see there's a,
there is a zip tie going
around the harness.
We're going to cut these zip ties.
And then on the back,
there's actually a section
of harness right here.
Um,
you can kind of see it if I
flip this up and out of the way,
there's a section of harness
here that is actually bolted down to it.
So we're going to remove that bolt there
So you can see there.
We want to really just make sure that
this whole harness can disconnect.
You can see there is a pin there.
Um,
so right underneath here,
there is another
rivet going into the air box.
All right.
So now we're going to try
to remove the air box.
You can see here,
just making sure there's still
a little bit of a tab here.
So we're gonna just be careful of
that when we try to pull this out,
but this harness can't really move,
cause it's up against the
transmission right now.
Um,
but there is a Mount right here.
There is a Mount right over here,
and then there is one underneath.
So basically the goal here is just try
to wiggle these out of these rubber
mounts.
So just like that,
you can see it starting to come out.
So now that I have a little more room,
I'm just going to make sure
to slide this harness forward.
And it looks like there might be one
zip tie that is just rogue and around.
All right.
So now we should be able to finesse
is the word does air box out.
So it's going to be a
series of back and forth,
make sure all the lines
are out of the way,
moving it to the right.
So basically the trick is to pop it up
and just keep sliding it out this way.
Um,
these little guys are going
to get stuck on some things.
You can see some scrapes on them.
Uh,
just gotta be careful with it.
Make sure it doesn't break.
Obviously this is good and now
we have access to everything.
So the next step is very
much just like an oil change.
We're going to loosen
up the valve cover cap.
We're going to loosen up
the oil filter housing cap,
put some rags around it to
make sure we don't have a huge,
huge spill.
And then we're going to go up in the air
and we're going to drain the oil out.
Before I do that though,
the only thing I'm going to do here
is I'm actually going to pull these
assessory bolts off of here,
and I'm going to go play
some next to the new unit.
So while I'm letting the
oil drain from the car,
I can actually get these ready to thread
into the new filter housing and PCB
unit.
All right,
using a 36 millimeter socket,
we're going to loosen
up the filter housing.
So,
um,
and just like we did a normal oil change.
We'll loosen this up until the O ring
is exposed to make sure that the oil can
drain out of the housing.
So I can see the Orion coming up
right there and right about there.
We should have the O ring exposed.
I can feel how loose that is.
So that means that the oil should
be able to drain right out of there.
I'm just going to keep going
a little more right there.
Just leave it right there to drain out.
We're also going to loosen up the oil cap.
We can either leave that in place there
just to let it breathe or take it out
entirely.
So now we're going to take
an eight millimeter wrench
and we're going to loosen
these up and get them prepared
to go on the new housing.
So now I'm going to take this exact bolt
that came out of the top Mount there
for the,
for the dipstick.
And I'm going to start the
threads in the new unit.
So here with the new unit,
you can see I'm just
going to match this up.
Um,
and just start these threads.
You can see that there is
no thread started in here.
So I'm just going to make sure that I
have the right fastener in the right hole.
I'm now gonna move to this one.
I'm going to put it in here
and the same with here.
And then we'll set these aside and we'll
tighten these down for the first time
on the work bench.
So then we,
when we go to assemble the car,
it's much easier or not fighting.
All right?
So for the last one that sits below this
one kind of can't really see it from up
here.
It's actually underneath here,
we're actually going
to go from the bottom.
So we're going to pull the belly pan off
as we drain the oil and we'll have easy
access to that.
It's the last thing we're going to do at
the top before we go and drain the oil
is we're just going to
disconnect the breather valve.
So this hose right here
is going to be pulled off.
So first thing we need to
do is break this clamp.
So this is a onetime use clamp.
So I'll show you how to do that.
And then we can also,
um,
come down here and we can either cut it
or just get it ready to come apart so we
can replace this,
but you can see this hose
right here going right here is,
is provided with the kit from STP Euro.
And this hose right here going into the
bottom of the head is also supplied.
So the easiest way to get these
one time use clamps undone,
um,
is actually to stick a screwdriver and
turn it so you can see I've kind of stuck
a screwdriver in here being careful not
to damage the coil pack right next door.
And I'm just going to turn that.
And as soon as I can turn it a little bit,
I can kind of pop it open.
Um,
once you get,
it popped open enough,
you can actually undo the ratchet on that.
Like I said,
these are one time use clamps,
so don't expect to use them again and
we'll be putting a normal hose clamp on
there to make it easier to service.
All right.
So here we are under the car.
Um,
basically we're just going to do
the normal oil change procedure.
So we're going to pull the
undertrained belly pan off.
Um,
that's going to be some T3
screws all the way around,
and then we are going to
take a 17 millimeter wrench
and we're going to pull the
drain plug and drain
the oil from the engine.
All right.
So now we're going to remove the bottom
eight millimeter bolt that we talked
about from above that's right here.
You can see there's a lot more access
to it on the bottom than there is on the
top.
So I'm just going to push
these wires out of the way.
[Inaudible].
All right.
So now that we have the fasteners
out and basically set here,
what we're going to do is these holes
are not tapped and these are very special
bolts from Volvo.
Um,
they actually have a sort of a triangle
at the end to cut the threads into this
housing.
So we really want to do is
when you start these threads,
you want to make sure it's very straight.
This is much easier to
do on the workbench.
That's why we're doing it
here and not in the car.
So what we're gonna do is we're basically
gonna thread them all the way in,
and then we're going to back them out
and then we'll install this unit in the
car.
And as you can see,
now there are threads cut into this piece
and it'll be much easier to assemble
it on the car.
Alright,
so now this unit is ready for assembly.
All right.
So now what we're going to do is we're
actually going to start loosening up the
bolts that hold the oil
filter housing to the block.
So there's three bolts,
one,
two,
three,
here,
and then there's one up at the top.
What we're going to do is I'm going to
get these two loose and I'm going to turn
this one loose,
but I'm going to tighten it back down.
That will make it.
So when we lower the car back down,
it's much easier to get this out from
the top and that will loosen this one,
but we're just going to retain
it after we get it broken loose.
So make sure it will loosen up.
And then I'm just going to snug it back
down just a little bit so I can get to
it again.
All right.
So now we're going to
reinstall the oil drain plug,
and we're going to go up to the top side
and finish pulling off the oil filter
housing.
Alright,
so now that we have
the bottom bolts loose,
two of them removed.
One of them just sitting there
and the oil has been drained.
We're going to remove
the oil filter housing.
So the first thing we're
going to do is unplug it.
So we're just going to simply wiggle,
push our thumb in and wiggle
this plug off just like that.
And now moving this
quart line to the side,
we can gain access to the top bolt.
So I'm pulling the plug down and
there's a knock sensor wire there.
I'm moving that to the side
and you can see right here,
we have a 10 millimeter bolt.
This is the top Mount
for this filter housing.
Now I do have an oil catch under the
car because I do expect some oil to be
leaking out of this as
soon as we pull it off.
All right.
So now we are one of my
favorite parts of the job.
We are basically going to cut these two
hoses so we can pull this out and we can
pull the hoses off.
So right now I'm just going to
simply cut down through here.
Make sure you don't go into your coolant
line and we're going to cut this one
right here.
All right.
So now taking your time,
you want me to ranch?
We're going to go back to that
bottom bolt that we left in.
Okay.
All right.
Just pull on the oil filter
housing or the cap here.
Just get it out of the way.
And here we go.
Final final movement.
So we're going to just pull this
out and carefully slide this up.
So I just want to show real quick before
we put this whole thing back together.
Um,
what happens if you don't
change your PCV system?
So I drove this car for about two weeks,
uh,
while it was making that noise and it,
and it progressively got worse.
Now,
if you look in here,
you can see all of this oil around the,
uh,
this is the intake cam
and the exhaust cam here.
You can see clearly,
uh,
the intake cam.
If I worked my finger on that,
you can just see all the oil
that's coming off of there.
Um,
the exhaust cabs,
not so bad,
but there definitely is some oil on it.
If you look at my middle finger.
Um,
but what happens is that create the
massive vacuum that the engine creates
basically takes these seals and it
wears these heels out prematurely,
and then the car start leaking well.
So,
um,
the next time we do a
timing belt on this car,
we're going to be replacing the intake,
the exhaust and the main,
uh,
seal on the timing side of the engine,
because,
uh,
we were a little late to replace
this component right here.
So that is why it is so critical.
Uh,
just want to get that in front
of you guys so everyone can know.
All right.
So I've used a pic and a rag and I've
cleaned up all of these meetings surfaces.
So right here,
and then mainly these two right here.
And of course this one here made
sure they're clean inside and out.
And that the meeting
surface is nice and clean.
So we'll get a good seal.
Now it's time to get the hoses ready.
Um,
so I'm going to pull what's remaining
of this top breather hose up through the
top.
So you can see it feeds right
through the intake manifold.
Um,
I'm just gonna wiggle that right
up and through just like that.
Now taking the old one.
Remember we cut this a little bit short.
We're going to feed that
one back down through.
I'm not going to go all the way down.
I'm going to leave it
up just a little bit,
but that's where it's going to go.
Eventually,
the other one we're going to
do is this one right here.
So we're just going to pull
this hose off right there.
Alright.
The time has come.
We have the new housing here.
Um,
we're to slide it down into
place and connect it up.
I have the bolt on standby right here.
Ready to be attached and
we'll see how this goes.
All right.
So sliding it down from the top.
You can see the key is really to
make sure nothing is behind it.
Nothing gets sandwiched behind it.
Um,
so making sure that this coolant
hose is moved out of the way,
making sure this knock sensor
has moved out of the way.
So you have a little break in that wire,
just make sure that's safe.
And then of course,
on the bottom,
we need to pull the harness
and use this little pick,
just pull the harness out
So you can see now where you're
lined up with the top bolt hole here.
I'm gonna take the bolt.
Well,
this,
this stuff over to the side
and feed that in.
Yeah.
Before I totally clamp that down,
we're going to clamp down
the one on the bottom.
All right.
So now we're going to put in the three
bottom bolts that hold the oil filter
housing on.
Um,
I have one snug right now.
I'm going to go and just
tighten that down the hand.
Nice and snug.
And then the other two,
one here,
and one here,
we're going to tighten those down and
then we're going to put a wrench on those
and tighten those down all the way.
It's now tightening this down.
These are 10 millimeter,
Make sure all three are nice and snug.
This is your bottom oil seal right here.
All right.
So before I go up,
back up top,
the last thing I'm going to do down
here is just take some brake clean.
I'm going to clean the oil residue off
of here to make sure we know this isn't
leaking when we start the engine.
All right.
So now we're going to finalize this
install here by tightening down the 10
millimeter top bolt that
holds the filter housing on.
Now we're going to start plugging in
and getting everything ready to go.
So the first thing we're going to do here,
get the plug for the blue filter housing
and get this knock sensor wire in the
correct order and plug that in.
Now,
we're going to take the 90 degrees
supplied with the kit and we're going to
install that.
So it's going to go vertically
and horizontally on the actual
unit that we just installed.
[Inaudible].
All right.
And now taking the one that
goes up to your engine cover.
[Inaudible].
Slow that down.
Now we can say the clamp down and we
can make sure that it's seated properly.
Now when tightening this clamp,
if you do not have the
battery disconnected,
remember we can disconnect it
before you want to be very careful,
because this is the positive
beat on the battery.
And if you were to hit this,
it will round out an arc
right now,
doing the same to the top.
[Inaudible].
That's good and tight and make sure that
this clamp doesn't impede access to the
pool pack and removing it
like a slide that down.
And I'm actually pulled us up and
we're going to tighten this down.
This is a great place.
If you have a flex head driver
for six or seven millimeter,
um,
we sell one on the site from CTA.
It's a really great tool
for these situations.
[Inaudible].
Now we fit this right down into the groove
that
that's ready.
All right.
So now just finishing up by tightening
down the top eight millimeter,
um,
we've taken the bottom down and
left the top a little loose.
So the bracket to wiggle a little bit,
and now we're just snugging that down.
Good to snug our dipstick,
snug our wiring,
it's snug and out of the way everything's
plugged in and where it needs to go
and connected.
Our next step is we are going
to install the air box again.
Uh,
so you remember how much of
a pain that was to get out.
So we're going to wiggle this in,
into location.
Then we're going to install the ECM,
plug all this stuff back in.
And,
uh,
before we go too far,
we're going to start,
you know,
put oil in the car and start it
and make sure we have no leaks.
All right.
So here we go with the
air box to reinstall.
All right.
So now we're back into
the general vicinity.
I'm going to lift it up and
we're going to align these three
pins into the grommets
Before we go too far,
though,
we're going to hook the wiring
harness back onto the bottom of it.
So remember this has to wrap around.
So first thing we're going to do is get
this wiring harness back in this group.
That's in the groove.
We can slide this whole thing back
and around,
and we're going to put the T
30 bit right through there,
holding the harness to the air box.
Again,
we're going to cut this
zip tie and we're going to
make sure that this harness
is where it needs to go.
So there's a little hook on
the bottom of the airbox.
We've got to kind of pull this whole
loom around and pull it back in like that
to get it in the right location.
Um,
and then we can take this little
in line that up with the whole year.
All right.
So now we have the long T3 that threads
in and holds the harness in place.
Um,
and now just making sure everything
in the harness is snugged in,
and then we are going to feed
it into the three grommets.
Alright,
we're back in.
So the next step is installed ECM.
So you make sure the seal is good,
cause this seal actually seals up the
air box just to make sure it's lined up
correctly,
Right.
To those pins,
hold it in place.
And then I'm going to thread
a couple of these in by hand.
Um,
as much as I can just to make sure it
stays there and then we'll tighten them
down.
And again,
that is a T 30 bit on these.
All right.
So now that we,
the CMN,
we can plug it in.
So starting at the lower plug,
um,
the trick here is to line everything
up and then slide the bar down,
making sure it engages
and pulls the plug inward.
Okay.
Here at the top,
pull it down and make sure
both are locked in place.
And we're good to go.
Alright,
so now we're going to
install the mass air flow.
There's two to 25 torques
that hold this in place.
I'm in a pretty big rubber seal.
You want the plug up into the right?
So kind of wiggle that in place.
Make sure we have a good purchase
and then one screw on the top
one on the bottom.
So now we can plug the
mass airflow sensor in
line that up.
That's a good snug.
You want to make sure that
clip on the bottom clips in.
So the next thing we're gonna do is bolt
this beauty cover down a very simple,
just slide it into place.
Um,
I've left fasteners right inside of it.
I don't want to pop it down.
Okay.
Now that we have the beauty cover down,
we are going to bolt deep,
um,
fresh air pipe for the turbo down.
Um,
this is going to slide
in the back here first,
a little bit of force,
and then we're going to
slide it on the mass airflow.
Um,
before I tighten this clamp or this clamp,
we are going to tighten
the 10 millimeters,
uh,
down that hold this into place.
There's one right here on the back of
the valve cover that goes straight in
this.
And there's also one on the side
that goes into the cylinder head.
It's really hard to see
10 to 10 millimeter
download back to the head.
Next step is to tighten the clamp down.
All right.
So now we're going to reinstall the
vacuum line sort of harness here.
First thing we're going to
do is right on the bottom.
We're going to clip it into
the fresh air hose right there,
and then we're going to
go through the right here.
Sure.
That is clipped on entirely.
And then right here,
again,
make sure it's clipped on entirely.
And the final one is
this red part right here.
Basically slide it in and then pull
back and make sure it's clamped down.
So the final thing we need to do before
we can add oil and start the engine is
we're going to pop the top off the
new filter housing and install an oil
filter.
Oops.
So we're going to do this the way we
would normally change oil on this car.
Look at that.
They even gave us a new filter.
Good thing we checked though.
So what I'm going to do is sprinkle
a little bit of oil on the sobering.
So it's not so tight going in.
It was definitely binding up a lot.
Um,
and then we will reinstall
this and we'll start this car.
So aside from two things,
we left the trim out for the air duct
down to the air box and the trim covering
the ECU.
Um,
we're going to now fill the car with oil.
Um,
the reason I left this office so
we can see if there's any leaks.
We can look down there
while the car starts.
Um,
and then obviously when
we know it's not leaking,
we can then install this.
So let's go fill the car up
with about six liters of oil,
um,
and make sure we have enough
in the sump to run the engine.
I'm going to quickly check the
dipstick and make sure that there's oil
registering on the dipstick.
Therefore there's oil in the sump
and we won't get low oil pressure.
And then we're going to start the engine
and make sure we build pressure and
also check around the housing for
any leaks while the engine runs,
you can see,
we are almost to the top.
Um,
I know that's going to go down obviously,
cause the filter is dry and it's
going to suck some oil through.
So it should be a good starting point.
We'll probably add
another leader by the end.
All right.
So before we start the car,
the last thing we need to
do is reconnect our power.
So I'm going to take this,
uh,
ground and we're going to
reconnect it over here.
So let me make sure it fits in place.
Obviously you can hear the engine.
Now we have power,
it's building fuel pressure and I'm just
gonna tighten this 10 millimeter down
Really quick.
We have the oil pressure
light right here on the dash.
Um,
when I start the car,
I'm just going to make sure that that
light goes out within three or four
seconds to make sure that we've built
oil pressure and we couldn't damage the
engine.
So now I've seen the light go out.
I know we're building oil pressure.
So I'm happy.
One thing you will note is
that when I open this up,
you can see there's a
little bit of vacuum there,
but you see,
it's not much of a change when I pull
that out compared to before that means the
PCV system is working appropriately.
So I can look down,
I can see that the belly pan,
I can see that the bolts on the
bottom are dry and we'll see,
I'm looking right at that
bolt there that we put in.
Um,
that's showing me that we
have a good positive seal.
Um,
obviously for the first,
probably a hundred miles,
I drive the car.
I'm going to keep an eye on this and
just make sure we don't have any,
any oil leaks.
If something got stuck behind air,
the seal isn't seated properly.
Um,
but we should be good
to go aside from that.
There's.
The next thing we do is
install the computer cover.
Uh,
it's pretty simple.
It just literally slides in here.
See,
I didn't like that.
And then the top corner goes in and
this top corner goes in just like that.
Alright,
so now we are going to put the,
um,
lower section.
I will note that this has a lock on it.
So if you slide this in
and you turn it like that,
it locks itself in place
and you turn it like that.
It unlocks,
um,
I've seen many of them broken
this one actually pretty good.
So we'll slide it in just like this,
pull the fastener out.
Um,
and the key is to try to get
it to go in to the air box.
Got it.
Okay.
We're in the air box and now
we're going to slide down here.
We're going to line up to our front duct.
And now last thing is,
we're going to tighten
down this eight millimeter
And now we're going to install
the cover on the battery.
Two tabs in the back,
down in the front,
we're going to install the underbelly pan.
And these are held in by a
series of T 30 fasteners.
And the final thing is I am just going
to check the oil level and get it up to
its maximum.
We put six liters in it's holds a
little bit between six and seven.
So I'm just going to add
a little bit as needed.
We're actually pretty close,
uh,
just a hair under it.
So I'm actually not
going to add any to this.
I'm just gonna leave it where
it is and keep it from here.
All right,
guys,
that concludes the Volvo [inaudible] PCV.
DIY.
I hope you found this helpful.
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please leave them in the comments below.
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